Below is the full spec on that motor. A half point of compression and some porting would have been fine. The spring rate is less than 200, so they are fine for red line revs. The valves have a 7mm stem, so they are light. I trust Mopar engineers over after market. With your cam selection you moved the power band up between 200 rpm and 400 rpm. You also moved the torque curve up by at least 200 rpm. The 243 duration advertised cam makes for a snappy motor. I will measure the deck and clay the valves for clearance. I will then have Wild Bill at Custom crankshafts in Tacoma offset grind to either .50mm or .75mm. That should net about .20mm piston tdc and .75mm BDC additional stroke. Then I can see how much I can take off the head and top of the block. Might have to look for an adjustable cam gear and advance the timing to fit TDC spec.s CYLINDER BLOCK DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Metric Standard Bore Diameter 93.010 ± .0075 mm 3.6619 ± 0.0003 in. Out of Round (MAX) 0.076 mm 0.003 in. Taper (MAX) 0.051 mm 0.002 in. PISTONS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Metric Standard Diameter 92.975 mm 3.6605 in. Weight 366 grams 12.9 oz Ring Groove Diameter No. 1 83.37 - 83.13 mm 3.282 - 3.273 in No. 2 82.833 - 83.033 mm 3.261 - 3.310 in. No. 3 83.88 - 84.08 mm 3.302 - 3.310 in. PISTON PINS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Metric Standard Clearance In Piston 0.010 - 0.019 mm 0.0004 - 0.0008 in. Diameter 24.013 - 24.016 mm 0.9454 - 0.9455 in. PISTON RINGS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Metric Standard Ring Gap Top Compression Ring 0.20 - 0.36 mm 0.0079 - 0.0142 in. Second Compression Ring 0.37 - 0.63 mm 0.0146 - 0.0249 in. Oil Control (Steel Rails) 0.25 - 0.76 mm 0.0099 - 0.30 in. Side Clearance Top Compression Ring .051 - .094 mm 0.0020 - 0.0037 in. Second Compression Ring 0.040 - 0.080 mm 0.0016 - 0.0031 in. Oil Ring (Steel Ring) .019 - .229 mm .0007 - .0091 in. Ring Width Top Compression Ring 1.472 - 1.490 mm 0.057 - 0.058 in. Second Compression Ring 1.472 - 1.490 mm 0.057 - 0.058 in. Oil Ring (Steel Rails) 0.445 - 0.470 mm 0.017 - 0.018 in. CONNECTING RODS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Metric Standard Bearing Clearance 0.015 - 0.055 mm 0.0006 - 0.0022 in. Side Clearance 0.10 - 0.35 mm 0.004 - 0.0138 in. Piston Pin Bore Diameter .025 - .048 mm (Interference Fit) 0.001 - 0.0019 in. Bearing Bore Out of Round (MAX) 0.004 mm 0.0002 in. Total Weight (Less Bearing) 555 grams 19.5771 ounces CRANKSHAFT DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Metric Standard Main Bearing Journal Diameter 63.488 - 63.512 mm 2.4996 - 2.5005 in. Bearing Clearance 0.018 - 0.052 mm 0.0008 - 0.0021 in. Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm 0.0004 in. Taper (MAX) 0.008 mm 0.0004 in. End Play 0.052 - 0.282 mm 0.0021 - 0.0112 in. End Play (MAX) 0.282 mm 0.0112 in. Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 50.992 - 51.008 mm 2.0076 - 2.0082 in. Bearing Clearance 0.015 - 0.055 0.0006 - 0.0022 in. Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm 0.0002 in. Taper (MAX) 0.008 mm 0.0004 in. CAMSHAFT DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Metric Standard Bore Diameter 26.02 - 26.04 mm 1.0245 - 1.0252 in. Bearing Journal Diameter 25.975 - 25.995 mm 1.0227 - 1.0235 in. Bearing Clearance 0.025 - 0.065 mm 0.001 - 0.0026 in. Bearing Clearance (MAX) 0.065 mm 0.0026 in. End Play .075 - .200 mm 0.003 - 0.0079 in. End Play (MAX) .200 mm 0.0079 in. VALVE TIMING DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Intake Opens (BTDC) 4.4° Closes (ATDC) 239.1° Duration 243.5° Exhaust Opens (BTDC) 240.5° Closes (ATDC) 13.2° Duration 253.70° Valve Overlap 17.6° VALVES DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Face Angle 45° - 45.5° Head Diameter Intake 48.52 - 48.78 mm (1.9103 - 1.9205 in.) Exhaust 36.87 - 37.13 mm (1.4516 - 1.4618 in.) Length (Overall) Intake 113.45 - 114.21 mm (4.4666 - 4.4965) Exhaust 114.92 - 115.68 mm (4.5244 - 4.5543 in.) Stem Diameter Intake 6.931 - 6.957 mm (0.2729 - 0.2739 in.) Exhaust 6.902 - 6.928 mm (0.2717 - 0.2728 in.) Stem - to - Guide Clearance Intake 0.018 - 0.069 mm (0.0008 - 0.0028 in.) Exhaust 0.047 - 0.098 mm (0.0019 - 0.0039 in.) Max. Allowable Stem - to - Guide Clearance (Rocking Method) Intake 0.069 mm (0.0028 in.) Exhaust 0.098 mm (0.0039 in.) Valve Lift (Zero Lash) Intake 11.25 mm (0.443 in.) Exhaust 10.90 mm (0.4292 in.) VALVE SPRING DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Free Length (Approx) Intake 49.0 mm (1.9291 in.) Exhaust 49.0 mm (1.9291 in.) Spring Force (Valve Closed) Intake and Exhaust 313.0 - 354.0 N @ 40.12 mm (70.365 - 79.582 lbs. @ 1.5795 in.) Spring Force (Valve Open) Intake and Exhaust 776.0 - 870.0 N @ 28.88 mm (174.451 - 195.583 lbs. @ 1.137 in.) Number of Coils Intake 7.3 Exhaust 7.3 Wire Diameter Intake and Exhaust 4.6 × 3.67mm (0.1811 - 0.1445 in.) Installed Height (Spring Seat to Bottom of Retainer) Nominal Intake 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) Exhaust 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) CYLINDER HEAD DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Gasket Thickness (Compressed) 0.7 mm (0.0276 in.) Valve Seat Angle 44.5° - 45.0° Valve Seat Runout (MAX) 0.051 mm (0.002 in.) Valve Seat Width Intake 1.75 - 2.36 mm (0.0698 - 0.0928 in.) Exhaust 1.71 - 2.32 mm (0.0673 - 0.0911 in.) Guide Bore Diameter (Std.) 6.975 - 7.00 mm (0.2747 - 0.2756 in.) Cylinder Head Warpage (Flatness) 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) OIL PUMP DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION Clearance Over Rotors/End Face (MAX) 0.095 mm (0.0038 in.) Cover Out - of -Flat (MAX) 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) Inner and Outer Rotor Thickness 12.02 mm (0.4731 in.) Outer Rotor to pocket (Diametral) clearance (MAX) .235 mm (.0093 in.) Outer Rotor Diameter (MIN) 85.925 mm (0.400 in.) Tip Clearance Between Rotors (MAX) 0.150 mm (0.006 in.) OIL PRESSURE SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)* 48 kPa (7 psi) @ 3000 rpm 240 - 725 kPa (35 - 105 psi) * CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine at 3000 rpm
I did a lot of work to my4.7 HO and I saw an increase of mileage per gallon on the freeway, and a more responsive pedal. working fine after almost 4 years, about to do the spark plugs again.
Great info ! I know you like the 4.7 but I had one Grenada in a 05 Ram with 50k miles not a fan ! I do have a 92 4.0L Cherokee that is bulletproof my kayak and hunting truck ! Love it ! Great content as always and I hope you and the family had a great Thanksgiving! Take care !
The exhaust valve is quite shrouded next to the chamber wall of the cylinder head. It is also very shrouded next to the intake. The seat perch area adjascent to the water jacket is absolutley pathetically thin. I would run the coldest tstat you can find along with drilling it. I will take some carbide cutters and blend out and un-shroud just a bit. That way the port velocity plumes around the entire valve area durring intake stroke, . the step that holds the seat could be blended along with the compression step. While you then lose compression ratio slightly, it makes up for it in flow numbers. Then I stick with stock cams and get higher flow numbers and lower torque curves. Bigger cams shift the HP higher in an unusable range. The key is to have unshrouded valves, ported chambers and intake runners that are 75% to 80% of intake size. The 4.7 liter inake runners are massive. Bigger cams just kill port velocity and snappy bottom end torque. The only way to make up for that is a point of compression ratio.... Another way to get back torque is with 4.10 and or 255 60 17s The water galleys can be massaged a bit. Gonna have to heat the heads up on a 2 burner elect stove and check the seats at 400. The design on these heads suck.... www.ebay.com/itm/144905086866?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144905086866&targetid=882300791467&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028900&poi=&campaignid=1669934603&mkgroupid=65058347419&rlsatarget=pla-882300791467&abcId=1123856&merchantid=8427944&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8aOeBhCWARIsANRFrQHsQzCKwcfw2u2PquMYSD-ulpMJqPZZoXDdiDUTA7xyAklSsRCLGNsaApvqEALw_wcB
I used to race Vdubbs. I would have ported and polished at least the intakes. The exhasut would have been port matched and polished. Especially around the seat transition and guid boss. Just a little. I bet with a transitioning port match from the intake port runner to the plastic shit would have netted at least 10 to 15 ponies. Another trick is to advance the cams 2 degrees while offset grinding the crank .020 and cutting the head .020. Then you just have to puddy the valves to seee if there is at least .060 to .080 clearance on exhaust and 040 to 060 on the intake. Otherwise, an offset crank grind and .020 off the head would give a slight ammount of port velocity back. I wouldnt be looking for lift so much as duration. a shorter duration on the intake would improve mid range torque etc.
Yeah, v8s are a real specialized in require a heck of a lot. More detail than an inline 4. Cylinder. A lot more work and a lot more detail. Almost double the chance of error than you would encounter on a Honda. Especially in the timing chains
Luckily I kind of know the history on this engine and know it hasn't been overheated so I'm hoping that I won't have any seat issues. We normally tend to see seats dropping after 3.7 and 4.7's have been overheated in the past.
I didn't know there was a difference in the newer rocker arm design as far as the thickness. Less deflection I suppose. I knew the updated earlier rockers had smaller holes. I replaced may of those. I have an 02 Overland 4.7HO.
7:29 replaced mine and they did the same thing, turns out they are just seized and I got bored one day and actually soaked them in brake clean and tapped the top of them with a soft faced hammer and they unstuck themselves and had their spring back, definitely didn’t reuse them though.
Are these cams also bolt-in for a 2005 "worst Jeep Grand Cherokee ever" 4.7L? Doing a valve cover gasket replacement and figured I'd replace hydraulic lash adjusters and upgrade rocker arms while I'm in there.... and cams too if possible! 😊
Have you been to the dyno to measure the final increase in power and torque? And did the power transfer to higher revs like one of the commenters said?
The trick if you have any left over is that you know were they went and purposely didn't put them back because you think it didn't need it! Not so much on a motor but more so on a interior dash board that had 50 screws and you re-install 49 of them because that 50th screw was a nightmare to remove and there is NO way you are putting it back in.
ECU training (self learning) should take around 50 start-drive-stop cycles, if need start over (re-learn) touch battery negative terminal on ECU metal case for 15mins
Yeah all of the fuel trims should have been reset after my 3+ weeks of it not having a battery in it. I will be pretty interested to see of fuel economy changes any with the new injectors. Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter yea I own a 2004 4.7 and done heads(off for valve seat replacing) recently so I know pains of fresh cranking, lol, I literally turned the balance shaft bolt 1000 times before starting with starter,😆
Even with the 199k there seemed to be very little valve to guide play. Though I did find one exhaust guide had dropped slightly, it had probably been that way for years so it got fresh valve seals and on I went.
Yeah it was probably a waist of money but with the larger cam profiles I wanted the piece of mind that I was doing everything I could to prevent valve float with the heavier new springs.
@@TylerPotter make certain that the minimum depth of the bay is 32 feet. Also, think about changing the length of th e garage to 48 feet. I wired my house and did all the plumbing and HVAC. I think you can do it with a little instruction. There is nothing you cant do when you focus your mind, and talent....
I returned a rebuilt 4.7. I am going to do rings, rod bearings, and massage the heads if the guides are good. If not there are bare heads on ebay for $349 each. My neway cutters and hungar reamers are in Washington state at my other shop. So is my heated parts washer. I need to make a trip with the race trailer and move some more stuff to Colorado. This year I will use the 1985 Bronco 2 for offroading in Beaver, Utah . I have to slow down and do the 4.7 on stable terms. It will be awesome if the bores and a pistons are good along with the guides and seats. Worst case scenario is new bare heads, and a bore job. Oh well...
@@TylerPotter Consider R63 for the ceiling with all return ducts burried. We are doing 7800 watts of solar to power 24,000 BTU minisplist in the great room and the solar garage. Then if we can charge at 26amps 240 volt, the Bolt charging will be completely off the solar array. We can then shutoff the 90 amp garage service and take nothing from the grid during day time charging. I have a silverado EV reservation, but I think I am done with EVs for awhile. The Bolt can do 200 mile round trips on just my house charge. I can go anywhere on the Colorado front range and back besides Pueblo. I havent done a DC quick charge yet. Anything beyond 100 miles gets a gas car. A 300 mile range Chevy Blazer might be worthwhile for trips to Utah on I-70.... Later
Авто/Мото
Below is the full spec on that motor. A half point of compression and some porting would have been fine. The spring rate is less than 200, so they are fine for red line revs. The valves have a 7mm stem, so they are light. I trust Mopar engineers over after market. With your cam selection you moved the power band up between 200 rpm and 400 rpm. You also moved the torque curve up by at least 200 rpm. The 243 duration advertised cam makes for a snappy motor. I will measure the deck and clay the valves for clearance. I will then have Wild Bill at Custom crankshafts in Tacoma offset grind to either .50mm or .75mm. That should net about .20mm piston tdc and .75mm BDC additional stroke. Then I can see how much I can take off the head and top of the block. Might have to look for an adjustable cam gear and advance the timing to fit TDC spec.s
CYLINDER BLOCK DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Bore Diameter 93.010 ± .0075 mm 3.6619 ± 0.0003 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.076 mm 0.003 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.051 mm 0.002 in. PISTONS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Diameter 92.975 mm 3.6605 in.
Weight 366 grams 12.9 oz
Ring Groove Diameter
No. 1 83.37 - 83.13 mm 3.282 - 3.273 in
No. 2 82.833 - 83.033 mm 3.261 - 3.310 in.
No. 3 83.88 - 84.08 mm 3.302 - 3.310 in.
PISTON PINS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Clearance In Piston 0.010 - 0.019 mm 0.0004 - 0.0008 in.
Diameter 24.013 - 24.016 mm 0.9454 - 0.9455 in.
PISTON RINGS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Ring Gap
Top Compression Ring 0.20 - 0.36 mm 0.0079 - 0.0142 in.
Second Compression Ring 0.37 - 0.63 mm 0.0146 - 0.0249 in.
Oil Control (Steel Rails) 0.25 - 0.76 mm 0.0099 - 0.30 in.
Side Clearance
Top Compression Ring .051 - .094 mm 0.0020 - 0.0037 in.
Second Compression Ring 0.040 - 0.080 mm 0.0016 - 0.0031 in.
Oil Ring (Steel Ring) .019 - .229 mm .0007 - .0091 in.
Ring Width
Top Compression Ring 1.472 - 1.490 mm 0.057 - 0.058 in.
Second Compression Ring 1.472 - 1.490 mm 0.057 - 0.058 in.
Oil Ring (Steel Rails) 0.445 - 0.470 mm 0.017 - 0.018 in.
CONNECTING RODS DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Bearing Clearance 0.015 - 0.055 mm 0.0006 - 0.0022 in.
Side Clearance 0.10 - 0.35 mm 0.004 - 0.0138 in.
Piston Pin Bore Diameter .025 - .048 mm
(Interference Fit) 0.001 - 0.0019 in.
Bearing Bore Out of Round (MAX) 0.004 mm 0.0002 in.
Total Weight (Less Bearing) 555 grams 19.5771 ounces
CRANKSHAFT DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Main Bearing Journal Diameter 63.488 - 63.512 mm 2.4996 - 2.5005 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.018 - 0.052 mm 0.0008 - 0.0021 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm 0.0004 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.008 mm 0.0004 in.
End Play 0.052 - 0.282 mm 0.0021 - 0.0112 in.
End Play (MAX) 0.282 mm 0.0112 in.
Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 50.992 - 51.008 mm 2.0076 - 2.0082 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.015 - 0.055 0.0006 - 0.0022 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm 0.0002 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.008 mm 0.0004 in.
CAMSHAFT DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Bore Diameter 26.02 - 26.04 mm 1.0245 - 1.0252 in.
Bearing Journal Diameter 25.975 - 25.995 mm 1.0227 - 1.0235 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.025 - 0.065 mm 0.001 - 0.0026 in.
Bearing Clearance (MAX) 0.065 mm 0.0026 in.
End Play .075 - .200 mm 0.003 - 0.0079 in.
End Play (MAX) .200 mm 0.0079 in.
VALVE TIMING DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Intake
Opens (BTDC) 4.4°
Closes (ATDC) 239.1°
Duration 243.5°
Exhaust
Opens (BTDC) 240.5°
Closes (ATDC) 13.2°
Duration 253.70°
Valve Overlap 17.6°
VALVES DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Face Angle 45° - 45.5°
Head Diameter
Intake 48.52 - 48.78 mm
(1.9103 - 1.9205 in.)
Exhaust 36.87 - 37.13 mm
(1.4516 - 1.4618 in.)
Length (Overall)
Intake 113.45 - 114.21 mm
(4.4666 - 4.4965)
Exhaust 114.92 - 115.68 mm
(4.5244 - 4.5543 in.)
Stem Diameter
Intake 6.931 - 6.957 mm
(0.2729 - 0.2739 in.)
Exhaust 6.902 - 6.928 mm
(0.2717 - 0.2728 in.)
Stem - to - Guide Clearance
Intake 0.018 - 0.069 mm
(0.0008 - 0.0028 in.)
Exhaust 0.047 - 0.098 mm
(0.0019 - 0.0039 in.)
Max. Allowable Stem - to - Guide Clearance (Rocking Method)
Intake 0.069 mm (0.0028 in.)
Exhaust 0.098 mm (0.0039 in.)
Valve Lift (Zero Lash)
Intake 11.25 mm (0.443 in.)
Exhaust 10.90 mm (0.4292 in.)
VALVE SPRING DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Free Length (Approx)
Intake 49.0 mm (1.9291 in.)
Exhaust 49.0 mm (1.9291 in.)
Spring Force (Valve Closed)
Intake and Exhaust 313.0 - 354.0 N @ 40.12 mm (70.365 - 79.582 lbs. @ 1.5795 in.)
Spring Force (Valve Open)
Intake and Exhaust 776.0 - 870.0 N @ 28.88 mm (174.451 - 195.583 lbs. @ 1.137 in.)
Number of Coils
Intake 7.3
Exhaust 7.3
Wire Diameter
Intake and Exhaust 4.6 × 3.67mm
(0.1811 - 0.1445 in.)
Installed Height (Spring Seat to Bottom of Retainer)
Nominal
Intake 40.12 mm (1.579 in.)
Exhaust 40.12 mm (1.579 in.)
CYLINDER HEAD DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Gasket Thickness (Compressed) 0.7 mm (0.0276 in.)
Valve Seat Angle 44.5° - 45.0°
Valve Seat Runout (MAX) 0.051 mm (0.002 in.)
Valve Seat Width
Intake 1.75 - 2.36 mm
(0.0698 - 0.0928 in.)
Exhaust 1.71 - 2.32 mm
(0.0673 - 0.0911 in.)
Guide Bore Diameter (Std.) 6.975 - 7.00 mm
(0.2747 - 0.2756 in.)
Cylinder Head Warpage (Flatness) 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.)
OIL PUMP DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Clearance Over Rotors/End Face (MAX) 0.095 mm (0.0038 in.)
Cover Out - of -Flat (MAX) 0.025 mm (0.001 in.)
Inner and Outer Rotor Thickness 12.02 mm (0.4731 in.)
Outer Rotor to pocket (Diametral) clearance (MAX) .235 mm (.0093 in.)
Outer Rotor Diameter (MIN) 85.925 mm (0.400 in.)
Tip Clearance Between Rotors (MAX) 0.150 mm (0.006 in.)
OIL PRESSURE SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION
At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)* 48 kPa (7 psi)
@ 3000 rpm 240 - 725 kPa (35 - 105 psi)
* CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine at 3000 rpm
Saved the video its awsome learned alot real quick 02 V8 H.O 4.7 is a beast I as well have put alot of money into mine well worth it in my opinion
Glad to see you tackling some H.O. mods on that 4.7 L
I'm just happy to have it all done finally! Thanks for the view!
Good stuff. You’re the WJ guru!
I try! Thanks for the view!
Love seeing these success stories
It has been a beast ever since!
Hey Tyler, great job, I bet that you're very happy that this project is done!!! Thanks for sharing this adventure!!! 👍👍🙂
After years of needing to do it I finally did!
@@TylerPotter congratulations!! 👍
I did a lot of work to my4.7 HO and I saw an increase of mileage per gallon on the freeway, and a more responsive pedal. working fine after almost 4 years, about to do the spark plugs again.
Oh thats badass no check engine lights what a stud
Great info ! I know you like the 4.7 but I had one Grenada in a 05 Ram with 50k miles not a fan ! I do have a 92 4.0L Cherokee that is bulletproof my kayak and hunting truck ! Love it ! Great content as always and I hope you and the family had a great Thanksgiving! Take care !
Thank you and yes the 4.7 is a pretty fragile motor vs. the 4.0 that can take anything!
I love turning wrenches, but I'm with you. The first start after a big teardown always has my nerves running on all eight and boosted.
Every darn time for me!
Word up. I know what you mean. Even a cam change. V8s are very complex
The exhaust valve is quite shrouded next to the chamber wall of the cylinder head. It is also very shrouded next to the intake. The seat perch area adjascent to the water jacket is absolutley pathetically thin. I would run the coldest tstat you can find along with drilling it. I will take some carbide cutters and blend out and un-shroud just a bit. That way the port velocity plumes around the entire valve area durring intake stroke, . the step that holds the seat could be blended along with the compression step. While you then lose compression ratio slightly, it makes up for it in flow numbers. Then I stick with stock cams and get higher flow numbers and lower torque curves. Bigger cams shift the HP higher in an unusable range. The key is to have unshrouded valves, ported chambers and intake runners that are 75% to 80% of intake size. The 4.7 liter inake runners are massive. Bigger cams just kill port velocity and snappy bottom end torque. The only way to make up for that is a point of compression ratio.... Another way to get back torque is with 4.10 and or 255 60 17s
The water galleys can be massaged a bit. Gonna have to heat the heads up on a 2 burner elect stove and check the seats at 400.
The design on these heads suck....
www.ebay.com/itm/144905086866?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144905086866&targetid=882300791467&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028900&poi=&campaignid=1669934603&mkgroupid=65058347419&rlsatarget=pla-882300791467&abcId=1123856&merchantid=8427944&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8aOeBhCWARIsANRFrQHsQzCKwcfw2u2PquMYSD-ulpMJqPZZoXDdiDUTA7xyAklSsRCLGNsaApvqEALw_wcB
nice shifting and torque converter
I have the same one, color & everything.
For some reason there seems to be a TON of the early WJ's made in the burgundy color! Thanks for the view!
Nice video. Yes, I watched it entirely.
Awesome, thank you so much!
I used to race Vdubbs. I would have ported and polished at least the intakes. The exhasut would have been port matched and polished. Especially around the seat transition and guid boss. Just a little. I bet with a transitioning port match from the intake port runner to the plastic shit would have netted at least 10 to 15 ponies. Another trick is to advance the cams 2 degrees while offset grinding the crank .020 and cutting the head .020. Then you just have to puddy the valves to seee if there is at least .060 to .080 clearance on exhaust and 040 to 060 on the intake. Otherwise, an offset crank grind and .020 off the head would give a slight ammount of port velocity back. I wouldnt be looking for lift so much as duration. a shorter duration on the intake would improve mid range torque etc.
They also redesigned the rockers because the 08 cams are solid the older cams have holes in the lobes that spit oil
I noticed that also! Thanks for the view!
Yeah, v8s are a real specialized in require a heck of a lot. More detail than an inline 4. Cylinder. A lot more work and a lot more detail. Almost double the chance of error than you would encounter on a Honda. Especially in the timing chains
I check the seats at 400 degrees with a seat plier
Luckily I kind of know the history on this engine and know it hasn't been overheated so I'm hoping that I won't have any seat issues. We normally tend to see seats dropping after 3.7 and 4.7's have been overheated in the past.
I didn't know there was a difference in the newer rocker arm design as far as the thickness. Less deflection I suppose. I knew the updated earlier rockers had smaller holes. I replaced may of those. I have an 02 Overland 4.7HO.
Yes supposedly the small hole rockers will "deflect" less under load.
7:29 replaced mine and they did the same thing, turns out they are just seized and I got bored one day and actually soaked them in brake clean and tapped the top of them with a soft faced hammer and they unstuck themselves and had their spring back, definitely didn’t reuse them though.
Interesting. All of the new lifters have been solid. Thanks for the view!
You should have been a USAF officer
Dual exhaust would turn that raspy sound into a rumble.
My luck I would rip it off on the 1st off-road trip!
What size lift and tires? That stance looks good
Are these cams also bolt-in for a 2005 "worst Jeep Grand Cherokee ever" 4.7L? Doing a valve cover gasket replacement and figured I'd replace hydraulic lash adjusters and upgrade rocker arms while I'm in there.... and cams too if possible! 😊
Yes! The 2008+ cams and rocker arms would be a great upgrade for any 1999-2007 4.7. Thanks for the view!
Shoutout rock auto! Lol
I have spent way TOO much with them on these Jeeps!
@@TylerPotter @Rock Auto, please sponsor this man!
Have you been to the dyno to measure the final increase in power and torque? And did the power transfer to higher revs like one of the commenters said?
Hey tyler do you still happen to have the part #'s on the the parts you bought, im planning on doing the same thing
Love it when someone actually knows what he is doing. Good video.🔧🪛
It's at least a good sign when it starts and runs smoothly! lol Thanks for the view!
What is the cam lift and duration change at .050
I’ve been considering these mods for my WJ 4.7L. Did you ever notice a difference in power/torque/fuel mileage? Was it worth the effort?
in chasis rebuild on a 250,000 motor? What was the cylinder taper etc. Oh and lifters need to be pumped up , but you know that...
This one only had 199k but I was happy to still see the cross hatching on the cylinder walls.
Did you use hastings rings"?
The bottom end or short block got left untouched.
Do you ever have a few screws or nuts/bolts left over after putting back together?
The trick if you have any left over is that you know were they went and purposely didn't put them back because you think it didn't need it! Not so much on a motor but more so on a interior dash board that had 50 screws and you re-install 49 of them because that 50th screw was a nightmare to remove and there is NO way you are putting it back in.
@@TylerPotterWe call that "weight reduction through the removal of unnecessary parts"
Hey Tyler, I have a doubt if I don't skip ads on your videos is it any useful to you
Yes I believe that does help! Thanks for the view!
ECU training (self learning) should take around 50 start-drive-stop cycles, if need start over (re-learn) touch battery negative terminal on ECU metal case for 15mins
Yeah all of the fuel trims should have been reset after my 3+ weeks of it not having a battery in it. I will be pretty interested to see of fuel economy changes any with the new injectors. Thanks for the view!
@@TylerPotter yea I own a 2004 4.7 and done heads(off for valve seat replacing) recently so I know pains of fresh cranking, lol, I literally turned the balance shaft bolt 1000 times before starting with starter,😆
@@DytliefMoller You and me think alike lol
Where is the port work?
I really really thought about trying some porting work but time got the best of me and I needed to get it back together.
What about the guides
Even with the 199k there seemed to be very little valve to guide play. Though I did find one exhaust guide had dropped slightly, it had probably been that way for years so it got fresh valve seals and on I went.
I aint changin the springs
Yeah it was probably a waist of money but with the larger cam profiles I wanted the piece of mind that I was doing everything I could to prevent valve float with the heavier new springs.
plus you have no lift and an 8 foot ceiling WTF?
The new house we are building will have 15ft ceilings in the garage!
@@TylerPotter make certain that the minimum depth of the bay is 32 feet. Also, think about changing the length of th e garage to 48 feet. I wired my house and did all the plumbing and HVAC. I think you can do it with a little instruction. There is nothing you cant do when you focus your mind, and talent....
I returned a rebuilt 4.7. I am going to do rings, rod bearings, and massage the heads if the guides are good. If not there are bare heads on ebay for $349 each. My neway cutters and hungar reamers are in Washington state at my other shop. So is my heated parts washer. I need to make a trip with the race trailer and move some more stuff to Colorado. This year I will use the 1985 Bronco 2 for offroading in Beaver, Utah . I have to slow down and do the 4.7 on stable terms. It will be awesome if the bores and a pistons are good along with the guides and seats. Worst case scenario is new bare heads, and a bore job. Oh well...
@@TylerPotter Consider R63 for the ceiling with all return ducts burried. We are doing 7800 watts of solar to power 24,000 BTU minisplist in the great room and the solar garage. Then if we can charge at 26amps 240 volt, the Bolt charging will be completely off the solar array. We can then shutoff the 90 amp garage service and take nothing from the grid during day time charging. I have a silverado EV reservation, but I think I am done with EVs for awhile. The Bolt can do 200 mile round trips on just my house charge. I can go anywhere on the Colorado front range and back besides Pueblo. I havent done a DC quick charge yet. Anything beyond 100 miles gets a gas car. A 300 mile range Chevy Blazer might be worthwhile for trips to Utah on I-70.... Later