I like that peeling effect! That's perfect for the sandblasted Southwestern look. I haven't tried that yet, but I'd like to. My go-to has usually been the salt method. Another Texan modelers, Lowell Joiner, showed that to me about....... 27 years ago (!!!!!) 😲😨 (I can't be that old!) I have always liked those Blair Line kits. Also highly recommend to any novice modelers, to at least try a wood kit! Laser cutting has made them so much easier, and better fitting, still giving that rich, realistic look that only wood can give! Anybody who has ever built a Campbell wood kit from the 1970's, will appreciate the improvement. (Campbell, as of 30 years ago, have made some fantastic Craftsman wood kits. The early ones... notsomuch) Looking forward to part 2!! Carmine 🚂
Big thumbs up Ron. I have used the salt method to do my wood peeling on my kits. Will be doing a wood fence soon and I'm going to give this technique a try on that. thanks for the Info.
Hadn't heard before of using Turpenoid or mineral spirits for peeling paint. By the way, I have found mineral spirits to be excellent for track cleaning. Its' an effective cleaner and the rails seem to remain clean longer than with other products I've tried.
Ron, excellent video! I have the same kit as modeling CRI&P. (hadn't started the kit, working on Bob's Bait & Beer for my first Craftsman kit). Interesting and educational techniques, will give them a try! Length of video is fine for material presented and quality of it all if you ask me!
Yeah, I acknowledged that in the comment above. This 2 part video should have been 3, but by the time I realized how long this one was turning out it was too late to start over--or it felt like it. Still learning.
As usual a great video, but as you say maybe in 3 parts instead of 2....I watched it all the way through but usually I am only good for about 1/2 hr at a time. I really liked your peeling paint method...in fact I think I may us it on an FSM freight house that I am getting ready to take on.
+Dale Mierzwik yes, I really didn't realize how long that video was going to be until it was way past the point that I was willing to completely reacted it. I will try to watch that more carefully in the future. The second part won't be nearly as long.
Hey Ron, very nice. what about adding a led light in the building? Would probably need to drill a small hole on the interior subfloor before adding the walls
Nice video; enjoyed watching. I have 3 questions: 1) why not use 91% isopropyl alcohol which has less water in it , hence evaporates quicker reducing the warping possibility; 2) why not coat each side of the pieces in the initial step to offset any warping on just one surface; 3) since I model HO scale I'm not sure this would be applicable to N but why not add some internal bracing? Thanks
By percentages of alcohol, I assume you mean with the craft paints? Don't use alcohol with craft paint, it will cause it to break down. I used water, and I can't be exact but I'd say about 3 parts paint to 1 part water. For this technique you want your paint way thicker than if you were painting normally as you will take most of it off with the tape.
I know this video is waaaaay toooooo loooooong. If I had realized earlier how long it would be I would have made this a 3 part series instead of 2. I promise part 2 is shorter. That being said, let me know what you think of this craftsman structure and specifically the peeling paint technique.
Absolutely. This technique gives a finer peeling paint effect. I have used the rubber cement technique, but it peels the paint in much bigger sections which looks wrong in N scale.
I like that peeling effect! That's perfect for the sandblasted Southwestern look. I haven't tried that yet, but I'd like to. My go-to has usually been the salt method. Another Texan modelers, Lowell Joiner, showed that to me about....... 27 years ago (!!!!!) 😲😨 (I can't be that old!)
I have always liked those Blair Line kits. Also highly recommend to any novice modelers, to at least try a wood kit! Laser cutting has made them so much easier, and better fitting, still giving that rich, realistic look that only wood can give!
Anybody who has ever built a Campbell wood kit from the 1970's, will appreciate the improvement. (Campbell, as of 30 years ago, have made some fantastic Craftsman wood kits. The early ones... notsomuch)
Looking forward to part 2!!
Carmine 🚂
+PacbeltRR Thanks for watching. Part 2 won't be such a marathon. Lol
Ron is a man of his word! Got the email as he promised. Thanks Ron.
very nice job on the build. the peeling paint effect is a great touch. look forward to the roof and interior.
+sparky107107 Thanks, Sparky. I've tried other ways of modeling peeling paint, but this definately works best imho.
Awesome build
Big thumbs up Ron. I have used the salt method to do my wood peeling on my kits. Will be doing a wood fence soon and I'm going to give this technique a try on that. thanks for the Info.
I am familiar with the salt method, but it is one technique I have not tried. I would like to do so sometime just to see how it works.
Great build Ron. I'll take 2 in HO Scale. I watched your paint peeling segment, very neat. -Mark
Thanks. This one was a bit of a marathon. Should have broken it into 2.
Hadn't heard before of using Turpenoid or mineral spirits for peeling paint. By the way, I have found mineral spirits to be excellent for track cleaning. Its' an effective cleaner and the rails seem to remain clean longer than with other products I've tried.
That is interesting. I will have to give that a try. Thanks for the tip.
i like this weathering look hope to use it on some of my structure.
+Charles McClure Let us know how it turns out.
Bravo Ron! Very interesting and helpful video. Perfect for any scale building. Lookingforward to next installment. :)
+Ernie Parsons Thanks for watching.
Ron, excellent video! I have the same kit as modeling CRI&P. (hadn't started the kit, working on Bob's Bait & Beer for my first Craftsman kit). Interesting and educational techniques, will give them a try! Length of video is fine for material presented and quality of it all if you ask me!
+schadowolf Thanks, but it wiuld have been better for a RUclips presentation if I had split part 1 into 2.
Hey Ron!!! Great video! I applied a coat of the India ink wash to both sides. This gets rid of the worping of the wood. Hope this helps you!
OK, big fella. This is a big ONE! Might of been better to break it up into 3 or 4 smaller segments and spread it out over more days.
Yeah, I acknowledged that in the comment above. This 2 part video should have been 3, but by the time I realized how long this one was turning out it was too late to start over--or it felt like it. Still learning.
As usual a great video, but as you say maybe in 3 parts instead of 2....I watched it all the way through but usually I am only good for about 1/2 hr at a time. I really liked your peeling paint method...in fact I think I may us it on an FSM freight house that I am getting ready to take on.
+Dale Mierzwik yes, I really didn't realize how long that video was going to be until it was way past the point that I was willing to completely reacted it. I will try to watch that more carefully in the future. The second part won't be nearly as long.
very good, i like your peeling paint job, looks very realistic. and i would like the files for the loads. thanks in advance.
Send me an email to ronstrainsnthings@gmail.com and I will gladly send them in a reply.
Hey Ron, very nice. what about adding a led light in the building? Would probably need to drill a small hole on the interior subfloor before adding the walls
Ron how bout an old rusty Iron signal mast nearby. using almost the same techniques to weather the structure.
That would be a cool item, although it wouldn't fit my prototype and time period.
Do you have plan / dimensions drawings I would like to 3d print this model. Thanks
Nice video; enjoyed watching. I have 3 questions: 1) why not use 91% isopropyl alcohol which has less water in it , hence evaporates quicker reducing the warping possibility; 2) why not coat each side of the pieces in the initial step to offset any warping on just one surface; 3) since I model HO scale I'm not sure this would be applicable to N but why not add some internal bracing? Thanks
great video as always, I love the colors you used,what was the percentages in alcohol. looks great thanks for sharing ron....
By percentages of alcohol, I assume you mean with the craft paints? Don't use alcohol with craft paint, it will cause it to break down. I used water, and I can't be exact but I'd say about 3 parts paint to 1 part water. For this technique you want your paint way thicker than if you were painting normally as you will take most of it off with the tape.
What luck! This my exactly my next build! Why paint the foundation after assembly? Thanks
+SA ModelRail Well, because I got distracted by fikming and forgot to do it before. Oops!
We are all human! Thanks
I know this video is waaaaay toooooo loooooong. If I had realized earlier how long it would be I would have made this a 3 part series instead of 2. I promise part 2 is shorter.
That being said, let me know what you think of this craftsman structure and specifically the peeling paint technique.
B I N G O :)
LOL, don't rub it in. Maybe you just have too short of an attention span--A.D.D. 😆
Are you able to apply these techniques to a HO model?
Absolutely. This technique gives a finer peeling paint effect. I have used the rubber cement technique, but it peels the paint in much bigger sections which looks wrong in N scale.
Ron, did you get my email requesting your file for the split car carriers?
I just checked. Yes I got it. I was out of pock over the holiday weekend and had overlooked it. I will send it tonight.