Garage Build Part 2 All About Concrete
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Nothing to see here, really... Well actually you will see the concrete pour, sealing and cutting of the stress lines. Then as I have little concrete knowledge, I question some things, but for all I know it is standard?
Good job! Thumbs up and Greetings from Ireland! :)
Well thank you very much, Maybe someday in the distant future I will get to Ireland.
I'd just use the spade bit and a big washer. You can go around and install some wedge anchors if you think you need them.
Since they've already sealed the concrete I'd let it go. But if the fiber was sticking up and the sealer dried with sharp edges like fiberglass rosin does, I'd use a grinder to smooth it down and just reseal over where you used the grinder.
Looks good and I'm envious. keep us up to date on the build.
So you think the finish isn't terrible then? Thanks for watching and commenting!
looks like a monolithic pour .....did they pour footings also?
They did what they call a thickened edge, so it is 8-10 inches deep on edge and tapers up to the 4" thickness for the rest of the pad over about 12" of run.
Maybe they expected you to counter sink the wood for the anchors?... though I can't really imagine why. Too bad you sealed it, you could've put an epoxy coat on it and not had to worry about the fiber. Unless they stick way up.
I'm told the fiber will break off and go away on its own, and if I epoxied it, it would flake with the fiber likely. Guess I will see how it turns out....
Get 1/2" bolt extension nuts and turn them down. Cut some 3" studs out of a piece of threaded stock and let's getter done. Build with a double sill and double top plate anyway, it's more meat at the bottom when your fastening sheathing.
Single bottom sill plate and a top plate with a doubler as I call it. No need for more meat on the bottom as it will have a treated 2x6 stood up as a "kick board" all around it.
That works too. !!!
What was the cost of the slab?
The anchors would be fine for metal plates and studs. Just as strong as wood and much lighter. The light weight makes it easier for one person to handle, add a cordless drill, tin snips, and self-drilling screws, you're good to go.
I have never heard of anyone using just a metal plate for a seal/bottom plate. Seams like a weakness as it would rust pretty bad and not provide much boundary from the non treated studs to the grade. I will either use a spade bit and drill out a 1/2" of the bottom board to make this work, or end up drilling and placing a wedge anchor in it.
Thanks for the idea, watch and comment!
+David Finch (dfmmc2014): It's a galvanized 2X4 size U-channel as are the studs. You put a layer of asphalt felt on the concrete first.
Ah, I know where your coming from now. I haven't seen a whole lot of use on steel studs other than commercial building and mainly because they are cheap and provide better fire rating... I don't think I would ever use them on residential.
I mean no offence by my following statement, so please don't get ass hurt. But Don't you get tired of telling someone that is going to do a perform a hired task just to fuck it up? the good news on the anchors is that if you don't make them fix it you can cut them off even with the slab and drill holes in the pad close to the old location and epoxy them in. I cant remember what type of adhesive they use. I had a similar issue on a slab i had pored and it was fixed that way. good luck and don't accept less than what you paid for. In the video you kinda made it sound like you let you brother in-law or a cousin do it and you didn't want to bitch because it was family.
Its hard to tell if your opening statement is an insult to me or not, but not offended either way. I agree that I can flush cut them. If I needed to, my original plan was to use wedge anchors anywise, then I thought why not do this.
They are not family, and they were recommended by the excavation guys, with some references. The thing that gets me is the amount of fiber that is on top, and what to do going forward with it. This was a verbal agreement deal, and I will see how it pans out once I get some feed back from people about whether or not this is what I should expect to see from Fiber Reinforced Concrete.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I meant no offence what so ever. That was why my opening statement was "I mean no offence by my following statement. I have just got tired of getting burned and it goes all over me when i see it happen to other people. I'm a disabled Vet and I get it more than most should from our gov. and when a person conducting business with a customer does something like that, well i just expect better. I apologize if I offended you in any way. I should have just kept to myself.
I agree the fibers would have literally rubbed me wrong.My shop is my sanctuary and I have my dogs follow me everywhere but the shower and bed. Their like my kids, so if one was to get a splinter and i not notice it and it get infected I wouldntt be a happy camper. I apologize i should have just minded my own business. good luck with your project, Jack
Please keep the comments coming, I think we are on the same page here. I am going to be curious to see how it turns out in time for sure.
I used to work for a company that refinished concrete floors we did epoxy sand broadcast floors mostly and we had large diamond grinders made similar to a floor buffer that we would take the top layer of a floor to level and give them a fake torrazzo look then reseal them I don't believe that would help with the fiber reinforced pad. and epoxy isn't a good floor covering in the long run if your going to be fabricating and welding. Take care, Jack
Thanks for the info, this garage floor is for parking, not fabrication. That one will be next year hopefully...