It can be a good idea for many situations! I'd recommend watching our videos that covers those to see what is best for your install - Wakol PU280 - ruclips.net/video/dPLRibD02Xw/видео.html Bona R540 - ruclips.net/video/NOE9vEdeiZ4/видео.html
I'm using a 5" wide 3/4" solid prefinished birch flooring and will use glue assist. Which do you recommend for speed, effectiveness, ease of use (keeping clean), and cost between the two methods (skip trowel or caulking gun) you proposed?
Would this method also work on particle board flooring? I was told by the salesman that you do either of the two glue ot nail. My plan is to do a DIY job and use your method.
We are stapling our floor (3/4” x5” hardwood). We also want a glue assist to help with squeaks. Is an acceptable method for glue assist to use a smaller trowel notch size but put it everywhere? That way you get more even coverage. Again glue is to “assist” the primary method of install, which is staples.
Hey there! Great idea to do a a full trowel glue method - that' the best way to avoid squeaks. When it comes to trowel size though, always use the trowel that comes with the glue or what's recommended for that specific glue. This will ensure that you're getting the best coverage and applying it correctly.
@@corptusion Ok, misunderstood your first message! You can definitely use either of the two methods in this video in addition to stapling. A full trowel + staples will give you the best prevention against squeaks.
It will depend on what type of flooring you're installing. It's best to consult the manufacturer's instructions and the NWFA guidelines, which you can find here: nwfa.org/technical-guidelines/
Good question! It will depend on what kind of subfloor you have. We have two videos that dive more into products to help you level the subfloor: Loba Wakol - ruclips.net/video/1xAdyf4Xjg0/видео.html and Mapei - ruclips.net/video/eUvXWGX4qqs/видео.html
so i'm doing a hardwood floor in one of our cabins now. i'm using 0.5" x 6 " x 8 ' ash that i've planed and jointed myself. i'm covering one side with gorilla wood glue and using pilot holes and pan head screws to get them to adhere to the plywood. following a period of 48 hours or so, the plan is to remove all the pan head screws and sand then fill the holes and finish. i've done one small area like this in the past but we sold the house so i never got a chance to see how it did over time. what are you thoughts for installing a floor in this manner? thanks.
"The concept makes sense and would work, but screws seem like overkill and will leave obvious holes. Most floor installers would glue and use a 18, 16, or 15 gauge trim nailer to nail through the face or blind-nail at an angle just above the tongue. This holds enough to push against as you nail the subsequent rows. Those nail holes are going to be much smaller and easier to hide than screw holes. You could nail and glue the first row and wait overnight if you felt like that would be more solid. Alternatively, installers start in the middle of a room and screw down scrap backer pieces behind their first row to hold it. Once half of the room is installed, the backer pieces can be unscrewed, the floor turned around with spline and installed the through the 2nd half." - Daniel
@@rwsupplydesign yeah likely overkill eh. the screw holes are a concern for sure. i staggered them 16 and 8" hoping they'd be part of the appeal once filled. i can't get away with nailing through the tongue here because i'm using square edged planks. we're talking 0.5" x 5.5" square edge planks. so i'm not only glueing the underside but also all along the edge and using spreaders and weights every four hours. making sure i have squeeze out everywhere. i'll send you some pics or do a video once this is all complete. i know this is not traditionally how a hardwood floor is done.
Hi there! If you are needing moisture protection, you'd want to use a liquid moisture barrier like Loba Wakol PU 280. Quietwalk plus and other underlayments are not designed for glue-down installations.
I hear ya! Using a glue assist will add to the cost of materials and installation time for your jobs. However, the prevention of future problems should be worth the time and expense for you and your customer. Repairs can be expensive, too!
I have done several glue assist, and very recently just did 1300sq full spread + nail. It took 5 days. Was messy af. Took 2 hours just to clean all the glue when job was complete. Nothing like finishing a job, packing up, wanting to go home, but instead your scrubbing a floor on your hands and knees 😆
Have you ever tried a glue assist method? Let us know in the comments!
This is a perfect example of do it once do it right
Exactly! Worth a bit more time and cost up front to avoid bigger problems that cost more time and money.
can't imagine how that subfloor looks if you have to demo it. gonna be replacing structural subfloor. this method seems ridiculous
Would you recommend a primer beforehand such as Bona r540 or wakol loba before glue assist for 5” wide planks?
It can be a good idea for many situations! I'd recommend watching our videos that covers those to see what is best for your install -
Wakol PU280 - ruclips.net/video/dPLRibD02Xw/видео.html
Bona R540 - ruclips.net/video/NOE9vEdeiZ4/видео.html
I'm using a 5" wide 3/4" solid prefinished birch flooring and will use glue assist. Which do you recommend for speed, effectiveness, ease of use (keeping clean), and cost between the two methods (skip trowel or caulking gun) you proposed?
Would this method also work on particle board flooring? I was told by the salesman that you do either of the two glue ot nail. My plan is to do a DIY job and use your method.
We are stapling our floor (3/4” x5” hardwood). We also want a glue assist to help with squeaks. Is an acceptable method for glue assist to use a smaller trowel notch size but put it everywhere? That way you get more even coverage. Again glue is to “assist” the primary method of install, which is staples.
Hey there! Great idea to do a a full trowel glue method - that' the best way to avoid squeaks. When it comes to trowel size though, always use the trowel that comes with the glue or what's recommended for that specific glue. This will ensure that you're getting the best coverage and applying it correctly.
@@rwsupplydesign even though I am stapling? Seems like I would need that if I was relying on the glue only.
@@corptusion Ok, misunderstood your first message! You can definitely use either of the two methods in this video in addition to stapling. A full trowel + staples will give you the best prevention against squeaks.
What kind of cleats are best to use with this method if the floor is 3/4 5thick and subflooring is 3/4 thick plywood, T or L and what size?
It will depend on what type of flooring you're installing. It's best to consult the manufacturer's instructions and the NWFA guidelines, which you can find here: nwfa.org/technical-guidelines/
How do you level the Subfloors when using this method?
Thanks
Good question! It will depend on what kind of subfloor you have. We have two videos that dive more into products to help you level the subfloor: Loba Wakol - ruclips.net/video/1xAdyf4Xjg0/видео.html and Mapei - ruclips.net/video/eUvXWGX4qqs/видео.html
so i'm doing a hardwood floor in one of our cabins now. i'm using 0.5" x 6 " x 8 ' ash that i've planed and jointed myself. i'm covering one side with gorilla wood glue and using pilot holes and pan head screws to get them to adhere to the plywood. following a period of 48 hours or so, the plan is to remove all the pan head screws and sand then fill the holes and finish. i've done one small area like this in the past but we sold the house so i never got a chance to see how it did over time. what are you thoughts for installing a floor in this manner? thanks.
Not a floor installer, but... In my experience Gorilla Glue has become very brittle over time. Maybe something to consider/look into.
@@Saileahgaz gorilla wood glue though. not that expanding stuff. that stuff sucks.
"The concept makes sense and would work, but screws seem like overkill and will leave obvious holes. Most floor installers would glue and use a 18, 16, or 15 gauge trim nailer to nail through the face or blind-nail at an angle just above the tongue. This holds enough to push against as you nail the subsequent rows. Those nail holes are going to be much smaller and easier to hide than screw holes. You could nail and glue the first row and wait overnight if you felt like that would be more solid. Alternatively, installers start in the middle of a room and screw down scrap backer pieces behind their first row to hold it. Once half of the room is installed, the backer pieces can be unscrewed, the floor turned around with spline and installed the through the 2nd half."
- Daniel
@@rwsupplydesign yeah likely overkill eh. the screw holes are a concern for sure. i staggered them 16 and 8" hoping they'd be part of the appeal once filled. i can't get away with nailing through the tongue here because i'm using square edged planks. we're talking 0.5" x 5.5" square edge planks. so i'm not only glueing the underside but also all along the edge and using spreaders and weights every four hours. making sure i have squeeze out everywhere. i'll send you some pics or do a video once this is all complete. i know this is not traditionally how a hardwood floor is done.
Can this method be used with an underlayment? ie Quietwalk plus
Hi there! If you are needing moisture protection, you'd want to use a liquid moisture barrier like Loba Wakol PU 280. Quietwalk plus and other underlayments are not designed for glue-down installations.
I bet the charge per square foot will be out the roof with this method, at that pace it will take 3 days for 1000 sqft lol.
I hear ya! Using a glue assist will add to the cost of materials and installation time for your jobs. However, the prevention of future problems should be worth the time and expense for you and your customer. Repairs can be expensive, too!
I have done several glue assist, and very recently just did 1300sq full spread + nail. It took 5 days. Was messy af. Took 2 hours just to clean all the glue when job was complete. Nothing like finishing a job, packing up, wanting to go home, but instead your scrubbing a floor on your hands and knees 😆
If your going to glue like that might as well glue the whole thing and nail it
You bet! That's really the best method to prevent squeaks and movement.