This was just the video I needed! I've been wondering about having my ac on it separate fuse straight to the bank for some time now. Had been looking into more space on my lynx setup but I just did not have the space in my electrical area. I Swapped to this and now I am able to view everything real time on my Victron app. Thanks again !
This is great Nate! Its an answer that I was already looking for and you just supplied it. I appreciate this tutorial so much, these are the things that I like to see, the problem solving stuff that no one wants to either talk about or share. Thanks for a great vid!
@@LexxandDoze I installed the Mabru RV 12000 -12 Volt DC Air Conditioner. I'm planning on getting the copper extension just for the positive side because I will end up putting the pos and neg for the ac on the last slot on the lynx and then putting the battery monitor on the copper extension. My ac has an inline fuse so I won't need to add any fuses on the lynx for it. I know that's probably all super confusing via text so once I have the pieces installed I'll try to send you some pics! ☺
@@AuraiyaMadrid hey thank you for the reply!! I have just figured out my plan and it sounds very very similar to yours! I’m going to use a double terminal fuse block and the copper extension. I’d still love to see any pics once you finish up.
I know camper vans are your specialty. Besides the alternator charging, I am sure these can apply to a 5th wheel. It would sweet to see you guys start wiring rv’s for us even people. Great video Nate, always enjoy watching your professional work at hand.
We've already got diagrams and plans available for that at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams We plan to put out tutorials over electrical upgrades to OEM rv's next year.
Question: I have a 2016 Ford Transit, Mid-Roof, 250, V6 Gasoline engine. I believe it has a 150 Amp Alternator. I want to add alternator charging for my house battery’s. Do I need a larger Alternator to charge 2 each 100 amp Battleborn Lithium batteries? Does Ford have to change software if I go to an additional alternator? Do you have documentation on this topic? Thanks Nate…..great channel!
Good morning Nate. Can you use this method (using the extended copper bar) for attachment of the chassis ground? Your diagrams show it coming in from the other side. If many of the Victron components need chassis grounds, it seems logical to tie them in like you did at the end of this video...
Nice. Thanks for sharing the video. In one of your videos from a while back, you show how to create the wire that lights up the leds on the Lynx for easy monitoring. I attempted that and failed. Do you sell those RJ11(?) parts?
Hey Nate! I’m doing this for my build and going to connect my AC to it but what about the second cable from the AC? The very thin one that I guess powers the screen on the AC. Does that need its own terminal or can it go connected to the same one as the AC?
If I use that, just the way you have, will I also have a cool tan by the time I am finished the job, bearing in mind I live in Northern Ireland lowlands ?
1: There's not enough room. 2: The current would flow through the stud as it's not electrically isolated. On the Terminal fuse, the stud is electrically isolated from the tab off the side.
Two questions: 1. Are terminal fuses used instead of or in place of the mega fuses? 2. I am planning to add a double fuse extender to accommodate my ac unit. But I was already using the last stud on the right of the lynx for the positive wire connected to the bmv. Can I keep that bmv wire connected to the last terminal while using the last terminal to also connect the double fuse terminal?
Would it be possible to connect a 12VDC RTX2000 AC to this as an extra fuse? It would be 58amps on the (maxed out) boost setting with a fuse of 80amps to protect power supply.
In an earlier video about smart shun, you showed connecting power wire from B1 on shunt to same peg where new item being connected. Where should I connect pos for that wire now?
Agreed. Instead, they will be coming out with a Lynx Distributor that will accept T-Fuses (which are mostly unavailable to the N American Market). Yes... I'm bitter. 🤣😂
It's 2.25" long. Don't remember the distances between the holes, though. I'd probably recommend just buying them from our shop if you need them exactly like we've got, though.
@EXPLORISTlife thanks Nate, dont think its not worth the shipping cost to Europe. It would be easier to make, if you can help hole distance, otherwise I'll have to trial a.nd error.
So I'm upgrading my 2008 Tiffin Motorhome to Lithium and doing it in phases. Currently I am getting ready to install 3 new 195 Watt Bifacial Solar Panels on the roof of the motorhome, then going through a Victron Charge Controller and then off to the current flooded lead/acid cell batteries that are in a series/parallel configuration. In this motorhome, there are two 4/0 welding cables currently from the the batteries to the inverter/charger. And a second set of 4/0 cables from the batteries to a pure sine inverter near the original inverter/charger. All 4 of these cables are 25 feet 6 inches long. There is no room near the battery bank to put Victron Multiplus 12/3000 120-50 2x120V down the road so it will need to go near the location of the current inverter/charger. How do you recommend I connect the Charge Controller power to the batteries, I'm thinking of going back through one of the pairs of 4/0 cable.
one of the benefits of using the lynx distributor is that it can communicate to the cerbo and tell us if a fuse is blown. with this extension, do we lose that information or is it combined with a different port?
You would lose that info. You'd want to add another Lynx Distributor to keep that info. For anybody else reading this... you only get the blown info on the Cerbo when the Lynx Distributor is paired with the Lynx Smart BMS.
Thank you Nate for the very cool hack. Can I ask what size terminal fuse should I use on a 200AH Lithium battery? Is there a good site for determining the fuse sizes needed for various things?
Dear Nate, It is said that battery banks perform best, when all the cables are the same length. I am wondering if you have your bank wired in series and then parallel, then the series wires are the same length and the parallel wires are the same length. but not necessarily the same as each other? Is that correct. Cheers from Canberra David R
question, can you flip the bus bars around? that is lookint at the lynx if the two input openings are to the bottom, then the positive and negative bus bar studs protruding out are on the left. what if you need them on the right, but the openings still pointed down? can you undo the bolts and just flip the bar around? there are openeings on both side? thoughts?
@@fixtradingconsulting2935 thanks for reporting back! Right after I asked, I went down and took it apart and saw why it wouldn’t work. For anyone else who comes later, the “holder” for the head of the bolt on the recessed lynx tab connection is only on one side of the housing. For that reason, you can’t turn it around as that bolt will spin when trying to tighten it.
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Hi,this is an amazing hack. As I already have connections on this 5th set of terminals for the lights on the distributor, can I still add another earth to this terminal or should I use your copper lynx adapter to act as an additional earth when I create an additional positive connection after following this video. The additional connection would be for a 2nd solar array which will consist of 2x 90w panels going to a smart charge controller 75 15 Any guidance would be greatly appreciated
Great stuff Nate! I've noticed a standard 4/0 5/16 lug doesn't quite fit into the lynx distributor (I usually use Selterm lugs). Is there a different brand of lug you use that fits the distributor for 4/0 wire?
The lugs we supply in our wiring kits are guaranteed to fit. We can't speak for all of the other brands, but we know there are a LOT that don't fit, but the ones in our kits do: shop.explorist.life We source the lugs directly from the manufacturer in bulk and they don't sell direct to public, unfortunately. Looks like you are a commercial builder/upfitter. Perhaps consider joining our Installer/Upfitter network so we can give you the go-ahead to install our kits/designs into your commercial upfits: www.explorist.life/camper-electrical-install-services/
I need help! I used your wiring diagram (renogy 500ah) I have a 400ah lithium battery setup. We just got down to 49% for the first time and our power just shut off completely. All of our devices are set to lithium so I’m not sure why this would happen. Please help!!!
That sounds like a settings issue. I'd make sure that your BMV 'charged voltage' is set to .2V lower than the absorption voltage of all of your chargers.
The fuse size depends on what device/load/charger is being powered. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂 This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I need your help i just bought a van but I need to know how much solar power and all that to have to run a 650watt gaming pc and a 550 watt gaming pc as well as everyday items I use the pics for work so I desperately need them in my van
Hi Nate, would you recommend going this direction instead of combining two victron dc to dc charger’s to a heavier gauge wire and using one spot for both as we spoke about in the past?
What perfect timing!!! I'm using one of your diagrams for my new camper van and had the same situation when I decided to add a 12V DC Air Conditioner. I'd just use a Lynx distributor but for space constraints. Thanks for being considerate of all the various 'van/RV' factors such as space, budget etc. That's what makes your channel so relevant and useful to so many. When I came to this dilemma, I decided to use a Class T fuse for my battery bank main fuse so I repurposed the former main system ANL fuse with a self made, two hole, copper bar using your instructions to connect the A/C's ANL fuse between the On/Off switch and the Lynx on the power 'in' side. I didn't think about using the "exit" lugs on the Lynx. Do you have any thoughts on one end being better than the other? The MBRF compactness may also just be best for my space. Anyhow, now back out to the work bench to see which layout fits best in my 'power center' as it's just about to get wired up next week. Thank you - so very helpful!
The MRBF fuse holder decreases overall connections than an external fuse holder with a jumper wire but if I'm understanding what you did properly, what you did sounds fine too, just a bit more bulky, perhaps.
So help me to understand what this is for.... does this take the place of regular bus bars and fuses? Aren't these limited in voltage? This is currently $222 😳
It takes the place of 2x busbars and 4x fuse holders and the wires/lugs to mount them together, and is cheaper than separate fuse holders and busbars. More info: ruclips.net/video/548aRhZMN-g/видео.html
Why not drill a hole in the middle of the top (positive) bar to make an extra fused space? Yes, some will say I'm cheap (true), but this is a high quality piece of hardware that I suspect can handle the extra capacity. I'd honestly like to know a good reason why not. Making additional holes in the plastic would be easy. I'm assuming the ability to make good holes. Thanks.
The molded plastic piece under the positive busbar is missing the space for an additional fused space. Although a good idea... that would take a LOT of modification and I'm not sure it would physically fit another fuse.
Well for bigger connection wire it’s much better to modify the plastic cover a bit. The purpose of the cover is to cover the connections so if you drop eg a screwdriver it’s not shortening. With your adapter you compromise that.
Cool, I didn't know that fuse method existed. A person might be inclined to use those fuses and just buy a copper bus bar and drill some holes in it. That way you wouldn't have to spend the big bucks on a lynx distributor. I have no idea how the dollars would actually calculate out though.
It would cost about the same or a little more to attach the fuses directly to high quality busbars as the Lynx Distributor. I've done that calculation in the past with ANL fuses and it was more expensive that way.
You need a larger terminal eye on that cable and the brown insolated washer should have a step in it to keep that large round terminal ring from being able to touch the stud.
Hey Jack! Literally, none of what you said is accurate. Thanks for watching though! If you have a question, or are confused about something feel free to ask it as a question on how it works instead of telling me that my methods are incorrect.
On my car (to relocate the battery to the trunk) I'm using a fuse holder like the one you're mentioning. It comes with an isolator washer you have to put on the top of the fuse, like you described. But in the video, it's a different type of fuse holder with a built in isolator at the bottom. The bolt is already isolated from the metal plate, so no need for an additional isolated washer on the top. If you look closely around 1:08 you can see it. I didn't know about this design in fact! Very interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Seems like this should work on the opposite end as well (the tabs) without having to use the fuse holder...just a bolt, washer, fuse, cable end, washer, lock washer, and nut.
Hi, sorry for my Bad english, i think your wiring is Not correct, the bold you connected the positive to, will be always on fire. The breaker will Not work, the bold is permanent connected to 1000A Busbar From Victron. Or am I wrong?
I think he is asking if the bolt you are connected to would always be hot even if the fuse blew. You mentioned an isolation pad on the bottom, but is the bolt isolated also?
I see. The stud of the fuse holder is isolated by that brown non conductive base I talked about at the 1:08 mark. The isolated nonconductive pad is what is holding the stud.
So if we’re dumb and using a 12v system but we want to run 2 3000kva victron multiplus2 inverters to power 3 air conditioners and charge a tesla from the battery bank, I could technically just put 2 4/0awg positive wires and 2 4/0awg negative wires running to both outter sides of the lynx bus bars and then put my 4/0awg wires that are fused from the middle and to the inverters battery inputs right?
It's not that easy. There's several areas in a 12V 6kVA system where you'll run into wire doubling issues including potentially needing to double wire sizes between batteries (math required), doubling switch capacity, fusing each conductor independantly, and more. There's a reason you don't see a 6kVA 12V system available in our store, and it's due to these system design problems.
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*LYNX DISTRIBUTOR:*
➤Buy from EXPLORIST.life: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/distribution-panels/victron-lynx-distributor/
*TERMINAL FUSE HOLDER:*
➤Buy from EXPLORIST.life: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/fuses-breakers/mrbf-fuses-fuse-holders/mrbf-30-300a-terminal-fuse-block/
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➤Buy from EXPLORIST.life: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/fuses-breakers/mrbf-fuses-fuse-holders/mrbf-30-300a-terminal-fuse-block-dual/
*TERMINAL/MRBF FUSES:*
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➤Buy from Amazon: amzn.to/3So9Wlg
great another lynx update /ideas your videos were the only reason I considered using the lynx distributer on a small ute system. Thanks again
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
This was just the video I needed! I've been wondering about having my ac on it separate fuse straight to the bank for some time now. Had been looking into more space on my lynx setup but I just did not have the space in my electrical area. I Swapped to this and now I am able to view everything real time on my Victron app. Thanks again !
This is great Nate! Its an answer that I was already looking for and you just supplied it. I appreciate this tutorial so much, these are the things that I like to see, the problem solving stuff that no one wants to either talk about or share. Thanks for a great vid!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Just installed a rooftop ac and was running into this issue… thank you!!! 🤗
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Curious which ac you installed and if you have any pic of the wire setup? I’m going to need to do this hack for ac as well.
@@LexxandDoze I installed the Mabru RV 12000 -12 Volt DC Air Conditioner. I'm planning on getting the copper extension just for the positive side because I will end up putting the pos and neg for the ac on the last slot on the lynx and then putting the battery monitor on the copper extension. My ac has an inline fuse so I won't need to add any fuses on the lynx for it. I know that's probably all super confusing via text so once I have the pieces installed I'll try to send you some pics! ☺
@@AuraiyaMadrid hey thank you for the reply!! I have just figured out my plan and it sounds very very similar to yours! I’m going to use a double terminal fuse block and the copper extension.
I’d still love to see any pics once you finish up.
Amazing, I just picked up a Victron inverter and remembered this video you made. Thanks! Don't have room for an additional component so this saved me!
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Cool! I ended up doing something similar for the start leads for the Onan 2500LP generator in our truck camper.
Nice!
🤗👍
I've literally been thinking of this today and boom, Nate delivers. Love this channel.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Great fuse type. Learn something new every time!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I know camper vans are your specialty. Besides the alternator charging, I am sure these can apply to a 5th wheel. It would sweet to see you guys start wiring rv’s for us even people. Great video Nate, always enjoy watching your professional work at hand.
We've already got diagrams and plans available for that at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams We plan to put out tutorials over electrical upgrades to OEM rv's next year.
@@EXPLORISTlife sweet, thanks Nate
Super nice, just now I need one more . Thanks so mutch .
You’re welcome 😊
Thanks for the video, Nate.
Hey J House, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Question: I have a 2016 Ford Transit, Mid-Roof, 250, V6 Gasoline engine. I believe it has a 150 Amp Alternator. I want to add alternator charging for my house battery’s. Do I need a larger Alternator to charge 2 each 100 amp Battleborn Lithium batteries? Does Ford have to change software if I go to an additional alternator? Do you have documentation on this topic? Thanks Nate…..great channel!
Good morning Nate. Can you use this method (using the extended copper bar) for attachment of the chassis ground? Your diagrams show it coming in from the other side. If many of the Victron components need chassis grounds, it seems logical to tie them in like you did at the end of this video...
Gutes Video danke 👍🤗
If my 12v a/c has an inline fuse (120amp) can i just bolt it down without the need for the terminal fuse?
Good job, nice hack, thanks Nate!
Hey Evil1, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Always great information, Nate! I already did the light modification, and may need to do this in the future, so much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Nice. Thanks for sharing the video. In one of your videos from a while back, you show how to create the wire that lights up the leds on the Lynx for easy monitoring. I attempted that and failed. Do you sell those RJ11(?) parts?
I can do this for a 12v air condition?
Hey Nate! I’m doing this for my build and going to connect my AC to it but what about the second cable from the AC? The very thin one that I guess powers the screen on the AC. Does that need its own terminal or can it go connected to the same one as the AC?
If I use that, just the way you have, will I also have a cool tan by the time I am finished the job, bearing in mind I live in Northern Ireland lowlands ?
Awesome, thanks Nate. We spoke about this at the Evergreen show yesterday. Do you have any videos that talk about tips/tricks for cable management?
Hi, thanks for sharing. But why not put the FUSE directly on the positive end of the distributor? Maybe it’s not enough space underneath the case?
1: There's not enough room. 2: The current would flow through the stud as it's not electrically isolated. On the Terminal fuse, the stud is electrically isolated from the tab off the side.
@@EXPLORISTlife Oh, I see. The stud is isolated. When watching your video again I noticed it. Brilliant. Thank you
Two questions:
1. Are terminal fuses used instead of or in place of the mega fuses?
2. I am planning to add a double fuse extender to accommodate my ac unit. But I was already using the last stud on the right of the lynx for the positive wire connected to the bmv. Can I keep that bmv wire connected to the last terminal while using the last terminal to also connect the double fuse terminal?
Would it be possible to connect a 12VDC RTX2000 AC to this as an extra fuse? It would be 58amps on the (maxed out) boost setting with a fuse of 80amps to protect power supply.
Did you end up hooking up your rtx? If so, how did that go for you? Pictures?
Yes I sorted it out not sure how I can add photos onto this comment thread
Nice solution
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Nate great as always
Thanks! 🙂🙌
In an earlier video about smart shun, you showed connecting power wire from B1 on shunt to same peg where new item being connected. Where should I connect pos for that wire now?
It can go there too, just on top of the fuse holder.
Victron needs to come out with a 2-slot 1/2 lynx distributor to add-on to the system. It would just make perfect sense
Agreed. Instead, they will be coming out with a Lynx Distributor that will accept T-Fuses (which are mostly unavailable to the N American Market).
Yes... I'm bitter. 🤣😂
Hi Nate, Would you kindly please tell me the length of the lynx adapter and the distance between two centres of the holes? thanks
It's 2.25" long. Don't remember the distances between the holes, though. I'd probably recommend just buying them from our shop if you need them exactly like we've got, though.
@EXPLORISTlife thanks Nate, dont think its not worth the shipping cost to Europe. It would be easier to make, if you can help hole distance, otherwise I'll have to trial a.nd error.
So I'm upgrading my 2008 Tiffin Motorhome to Lithium and doing it in phases. Currently I am getting ready to install 3 new 195 Watt Bifacial Solar Panels on the roof of the motorhome, then going through a Victron Charge Controller and then off to the current flooded lead/acid cell batteries that are in a series/parallel configuration. In this motorhome, there are two 4/0 welding cables currently from the the batteries to the inverter/charger. And a second set of 4/0 cables from the batteries to a pure sine inverter near the original inverter/charger. All 4 of these cables are 25 feet 6 inches long. There is no room near the battery bank to put Victron Multiplus 12/3000 120-50 2x120V down the road so it will need to go near the location of the current inverter/charger. How do you recommend I connect the Charge Controller power to the batteries, I'm thinking of going back through one of the pairs of 4/0 cable.
one of the benefits of using the lynx distributor is that it can communicate to the cerbo and tell us if a fuse is blown. with this extension, do we lose that information or is it combined with a different port?
You would lose that info. You'd want to add another Lynx Distributor to keep that info. For anybody else reading this... you only get the blown info on the Cerbo when the Lynx Distributor is paired with the Lynx Smart BMS.
The fuse holder is 3/8 M10 and the lynx stud is M8???
Is this safe?
Thank you Nate for the very cool hack. Can I ask what size terminal fuse should I use on a 200AH Lithium battery? Is there a good site for determining the fuse sizes needed for various things?
Good information
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Dear Nate, It is said that battery banks perform best, when all the cables are the same length. I am wondering if you have your bank wired in series and then parallel, then the series wires are the same length and the parallel wires are the same length. but not necessarily the same as each other? Is that correct. Cheers from Canberra David R
That will work, yes.
Brilliant!
Hey Free At Last, Thanks so much! Cheers!
question, can you flip the bus bars around? that is lookint at the lynx if the two input openings are to the bottom, then the positive and negative bus bar studs protruding out are on the left. what if you need them on the right, but the openings still pointed down? can you undo the bolts and just flip the bar around? there are openeings on both side? thoughts?
Not sure. Never tried that.
Did you ever try this?
@@TheCodeMonk yeah, no go. it was a year ago. i
@@fixtradingconsulting2935 thanks for reporting back! Right after I asked, I went down and took it apart and saw why it wouldn’t work.
For anyone else who comes later, the “holder” for the head of the bolt on the recessed lynx tab connection is only on one side of the housing. For that reason, you can’t turn it around as that bolt will spin when trying to tighten it.
Can I add anther battery to this extra link?
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Do you have a link for the copper busbar as shown in the video? Thank you.
shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/connectors/victron-lynx-adapter/
witam jak podłaczyć distrybutor do lynks bocznik by czytał wejścia poboru prądu dziękuję
Hi,this is an amazing hack.
As I already have connections on this 5th set of terminals for the lights on the distributor, can I still add another earth to this terminal or should I use your copper lynx adapter to act as an additional earth when I create an additional positive connection after following this video. The additional connection would be for a 2nd solar array which will consist of 2x 90w panels going to a smart charge controller 75 15
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated
Great stuff Nate! I've noticed a standard 4/0 5/16 lug doesn't quite fit into the lynx distributor (I usually use Selterm lugs). Is there a different brand of lug you use that fits the distributor for 4/0 wire?
The lugs we supply in our wiring kits are guaranteed to fit. We can't speak for all of the other brands, but we know there are a LOT that don't fit, but the ones in our kits do: shop.explorist.life
We source the lugs directly from the manufacturer in bulk and they don't sell direct to public, unfortunately.
Looks like you are a commercial builder/upfitter. Perhaps consider joining our Installer/Upfitter network so we can give you the go-ahead to install our kits/designs into your commercial upfits: www.explorist.life/camper-electrical-install-services/
I need help! I used your wiring diagram (renogy 500ah) I have a 400ah lithium battery setup. We just got down to 49% for the first time and our power just shut off completely. All of our devices are set to lithium so I’m not sure why this would happen. Please help!!!
That sounds like a settings issue. I'd make sure that your BMV 'charged voltage' is set to .2V lower than the absorption voltage of all of your chargers.
Would I be able to use a in line fuse ?
Sure.
Nate, with all your pull can you please just have Victorton put a fifth Fuse slot in the Linx distributor?!!!
😂🤣 I'd rather not distract them from releasing the upgraded 50A Orion DC DC charger.
What size is the fuse? Thanks
The fuse size depends on what device/load/charger is being powered. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂 This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I need your help i just bought a van but I need to know how much solar power and all that to have to run a 650watt gaming pc and a 550 watt gaming pc as well as everyday items I use the pics for work so I desperately need them in my van
This video will teach you how to figure that out: ruclips.net/video/a406IxiU-Xg/видео.html
I still can’t figure it out I went to the website but i didn’t see a calculator
I just checked. It's still there. 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Genius
Thanks! 🙂🙌
A bit late for me. My solution was to buy a second Lynx Distributor. Great info though. 👍🏼
Perfect! That's definitely the best and cleanest solution.
Hi Nate, would you recommend going this direction instead of combining two victron dc to dc charger’s to a heavier gauge wire and using one spot for both as we spoke about in the past?
Probably so.
What perfect timing!!! I'm using one of your diagrams for my new camper van and had the same situation when I decided to add a 12V DC Air Conditioner. I'd just use a Lynx distributor but for space constraints. Thanks for being considerate of all the various 'van/RV' factors such as space, budget etc. That's what makes your channel so relevant and useful to so many. When I came to this dilemma, I decided to use a Class T fuse for my battery bank main fuse so I repurposed the former main system ANL fuse with a self made, two hole, copper bar using your instructions to connect the A/C's ANL fuse between the On/Off switch and the Lynx on the power 'in' side. I didn't think about using the "exit" lugs on the Lynx. Do you have any thoughts on one end being better than the other? The MBRF compactness may also just be best for my space. Anyhow, now back out to the work bench to see which layout fits best in my 'power center' as it's just about to get wired up next week. Thank you - so very helpful!
The MRBF fuse holder decreases overall connections than an external fuse holder with a jumper wire but if I'm understanding what you did properly, what you did sounds fine too, just a bit more bulky, perhaps.
So help me to understand what this is for.... does this take the place of regular bus bars and fuses? Aren't these limited in voltage? This is currently $222 😳
It takes the place of 2x busbars and 4x fuse holders and the wires/lugs to mount them together, and is cheaper than separate fuse holders and busbars. More info: ruclips.net/video/548aRhZMN-g/видео.html
Why not drill a hole in the middle of the top (positive) bar to make an extra fused space? Yes, some will say I'm cheap (true), but this is a high quality piece of hardware that I suspect can handle the extra capacity. I'd honestly like to know a good reason why not. Making additional holes in the plastic would be easy. I'm assuming the ability to make good holes. Thanks.
The molded plastic piece under the positive busbar is missing the space for an additional fused space. Although a good idea... that would take a LOT of modification and I'm not sure it would physically fit another fuse.
Well for bigger connection wire it’s much better to modify the plastic cover a bit. The purpose of the cover is to cover the connections so if you drop eg a screwdriver it’s not shortening. With your adapter you compromise that.
Or just buy another Lynx Distributor and bolt it to the end like designed.
Cool, I didn't know that fuse method existed. A person might be inclined to use those fuses and just buy a copper bus bar and drill some holes in it. That way you wouldn't have to spend the big bucks on a lynx distributor. I have no idea how the dollars would actually calculate out though.
It would cost about the same or a little more to attach the fuses directly to high quality busbars as the Lynx Distributor. I've done that calculation in the past with ANL fuses and it was more expensive that way.
You need a larger terminal eye on that cable and the brown insolated washer should have a step in it to keep that large round terminal ring from being able to touch the stud.
Hey Jack! Literally, none of what you said is accurate. Thanks for watching though! If you have a question, or are confused about something feel free to ask it as a question on how it works instead of telling me that my methods are incorrect.
On my car (to relocate the battery to the trunk) I'm using a fuse holder like the one you're mentioning. It comes with an isolator washer you have to put on the top of the fuse, like you described. But in the video, it's a different type of fuse holder with a built in isolator at the bottom. The bolt is already isolated from the metal plate, so no need for an additional isolated washer on the top. If you look closely around 1:08 you can see it. I didn't know about this design in fact! Very interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Seems like this should work on the opposite end as well (the tabs) without having to use the fuse holder...just a bolt, washer, fuse, cable end, washer, lock washer, and nut.
Hi, sorry for my Bad english, i think your wiring is Not correct, the bold you connected the positive to, will be always on fire. The breaker will Not work, the bold is permanent connected to 1000A Busbar From Victron. Or am I wrong?
I'm not sure I'm following your criticism... but the wiring is correct. Nothing 'will be always on fire'. Thanks for watching!
I think he is asking if the bolt you are connected to would always be hot even if the fuse blew. You mentioned an isolation pad on the bottom, but is the bolt isolated also?
I see. The stud of the fuse holder is isolated by that brown non conductive base I talked about at the 1:08 mark. The isolated nonconductive pad is what is holding the stud.
That's a little cleaner than what I did. I ran the positive lead to a circuit breaker because I couldn't figure out a fuse solution.
👍👍🙂
is the tattoo on your right thumb of a Hershey's kiss?
Yeah. Hershey pays me HUGE advertising dollars every month for that ad space.
@@EXPLORISTlife I thought so, good move!!!
Im a big fan of victron but for the price .... hehe
Yeah, it's pretty high quality stuff for sure! Cheaper than buying then re-buying cheap junk, that's for sure.
So if we’re dumb and using a 12v system but we want to run 2 3000kva victron multiplus2 inverters to power 3 air conditioners and charge a tesla from the battery bank, I could technically just put 2 4/0awg positive wires and 2 4/0awg negative wires running to both outter sides of the lynx bus bars and then put my 4/0awg wires that are fused from the middle and to the inverters battery inputs right?
It's not that easy. There's several areas in a 12V 6kVA system where you'll run into wire doubling issues including potentially needing to double wire sizes between batteries (math required), doubling switch capacity, fusing each conductor independantly, and more. There's a reason you don't see a 6kVA 12V system available in our store, and it's due to these system design problems.