Yout explanation at 8:47 made everything click in my head!!! THANK YOU for being so thorough in your explanation. I'm not new to cars I'm new to turbo cars and the n54'.
That boost side catch can being open is going to cause lean mixture faults and throttle oscillation under vacuum. The “flapper” valve has a hole in it above the flap and without vacuum from the inlet resisting the vacuum from the vacuum side pcv, it will pull in too much air (vacuum leak). It needs a vacuum source on the other side, or it needs an actual check valve. Alternatively you could just run an oil feed restricter and vent to atmosphere and save $700 on catch cans
Thank you for this comment. Would not pulling vacuum to the boost side cause oil drain issues also? I’m actually having some slight smoking on decel and I’m wondering if this is the cause
@@ChicagoE9X it’s very likely. I only know because I chased this issue down forever no realizing that side being open would cause it. The problem is you need crank case pressure to be able to vent under boost so just capping it is probably not the best idea. Oil feed restrict or or check valve instead of flapper, but idk of any check valves that would work well in that application. I considered cutting the top little bump off the flapper to access the hole and epoxying it shut. That might work
@@rjaynes426 I have a brand new Garrett turbo which I thought had a restrictor fitting that came with it but I’m not sure. All I know is it’s definitely smoking and reeks of oil but only see smoke on decel. I’ll try to route a line to the turbo filter to see if that fixes it and maybe come up with a more appealing solution later
@@rjaynes426i run pulsar turbo, so should i use oem flapper that goes to occ and other hose from occ to turbo inlet, should i remove pcv valve and run hose straight to second occ and other occ hose to throthle body hose with check valve?
From what I understand, the boost reference for your boost control is better the closer to the turbo as possible. You could tap the compressor housing and plum it directly in the mac valves and in the bottom part of the wastegate. The shorter the vacuum lines will be, the faster the boost will be controlled. Hope this helps
Definitely the best way to have an effective catch can setup, disregard Vader solution and all those “custom” catch cans. All those are doing is completely deleting ur pcv which is terrible...
Question, when oil blows by my turbo seal, and I see blue smoke coming out of my exhaust at idle, do I have to replace my turbo seal now? I'm actually on upgraded twins that I JUST INSTALLED 750mi ago, and took it easy on baseline tune until yesterday, where I did multiple pulls. I have BMS high side catch can only, and RB pcv valve. I'm hoping my piston rings & turbos are fine, and it's just oil that made it in through the intake due to the inadequate PCV system. But Idk, I just REALLY don't want to take my turbos off & install again 😫 or replace an engine after doing all the maintenance on it!
I don’t have a low side catch can on my dr700 kit from docrace, you recommend I get one , just have the high side vents to atmosphere kind of like your first video let me know what you recommend please
I know this is a year old, but i did the same setup, but used rb instead... im having an issue where my high side is just smoking venting to atmosphere.. im pretty sure it shouldnt do that.. i plugged headports aswell.. But now, im experiencing ruff idle and and misfires after plugging.. so im pretty sure im not understanding something.. pcv related.. did u fix ur smoking issue?
@ZammianX yes.. the tuner I paid to do my car didn't tune it right and then my compression in 2 cylinders went... which thought me a powerful lesson... don't cheep out on a tune.. So if you open your oil can and you see smoke puffing out, check your conpression.. most likely broke a ring
I don’t think plumbing to the manifold is necessary, I’m not really good at this vacuum stuff but my brother has a ST setup and his does not run to the manifold
N54s pcv system is much more complicated then you think. This video shows how to do it the effective way. Theirs many wrong ways to do it and other ways.
For the ones watching this that haven’t single turbo there car and are going too do not put ur mac solenoid that clown to ur turbo it will cause problems did for me for his over boosting not saying that was the problem but it won’t help
Yout explanation at 8:47 made everything click in my head!!! THANK YOU for being so thorough in your explanation. I'm not new to cars I'm new to turbo cars and the n54'.
That boost side catch can being open is going to cause lean mixture faults and throttle oscillation under vacuum. The “flapper” valve has a hole in it above the flap and without vacuum from the inlet resisting the vacuum from the vacuum side pcv, it will pull in too much air (vacuum leak). It needs a vacuum source on the other side, or it needs an actual check valve. Alternatively you could just run an oil feed restricter and vent to atmosphere and save $700 on catch cans
Thank you for this comment. Would not pulling vacuum to the boost side cause oil drain issues also? I’m actually having some slight smoking on decel and I’m wondering if this is the cause
@@ChicagoE9X it’s very likely. I only know because I chased this issue down forever no realizing that side being open would cause it. The problem is you need crank case pressure to be able to vent under boost so just capping it is probably not the best idea. Oil feed restrict or or check valve instead of flapper, but idk of any check valves that would work well in that application. I considered cutting the top little bump off the flapper to access the hole and epoxying it shut. That might work
@@rjaynes426 I have a brand new Garrett turbo which I thought had a restrictor fitting that came with it but I’m not sure. All I know is it’s definitely smoking and reeks of oil but only see smoke on decel. I’ll try to route a line to the turbo filter to see if that fixes it and maybe come up with a more appealing solution later
@@ChicagoE9X -12 hose with a bulkhead fitting to turbo inlet works on that catch can
@@rjaynes426i run pulsar turbo, so should i use oem flapper that goes to occ and other hose from occ to turbo inlet, should i remove pcv valve and run hose straight to second occ and other occ hose to throthle body hose with check valve?
From what I understand, the boost reference for your boost control is better the closer to the turbo as possible. You could tap the compressor housing and plum it directly in the mac valves and in the bottom part of the wastegate. The shorter the vacuum lines will be, the faster the boost will be controlled. Hope this helps
yes I read this also! thanks for the comment
Definitely the best way to have an effective catch can setup, disregard Vader solution and all those “custom” catch cans. All those are doing is completely deleting ur pcv which is terrible...
Where is the DIY for the plugged head ports? And why is this beneficial? Any risks to doing it?
best vid on this subject
@ChicagoE9X Did you just plug up your rear inlet?
if you plug the head ports and add the low side catch can, do you still need the high side catch can?
Question, when oil blows by my turbo seal, and I see blue smoke coming out of my exhaust at idle, do I have to replace my turbo seal now?
I'm actually on upgraded twins that I JUST INSTALLED 750mi ago, and took it easy on baseline tune until yesterday, where I did multiple pulls.
I have BMS high side catch can only, and RB pcv valve.
I'm hoping my piston rings & turbos are fine, and it's just oil that made it in through the intake due to the inadequate PCV system. But Idk, I just REALLY don't want to take my turbos off & install again 😫 or replace an engine after doing all the maintenance on it!
7:35 you mention a DIY head port delete for the PVC system, please provide a link, Thanks
this setup works, same as mine, but Radium.
Is this what’s called an external pv system or is that something completely different then what your doing? Thx
I don’t have a low side catch can on my dr700 kit from docrace, you recommend I get one , just have the high side vents to atmosphere kind of like your first video let me know what you recommend please
I would also like to know, I am running the same setup as @zanmasterr
@@joseparra4976 I ended up doing the same thing bout another cc and routed it Same way
Why did you remove the breather cap?
Have you had any trouble with lowside hoses?
Why did you take off the Vargas Breather cap?
since the motor was rebuilt there was no need for it anymore. Just a proper pcv setup
Funny how can listen to all the details in this but not one when my girlfriend tells a story or explains her day🥴 I want her to skip to end
I know this is a year old, but i did the same setup, but used rb instead... im having an issue where my high side is just smoking venting to atmosphere.. im pretty sure it shouldnt do that.. i plugged headports aswell..
But now, im experiencing ruff idle and and misfires after plugging.. so im pretty sure im not understanding something.. pcv related.. did u fix ur smoking issue?
having the sameeee exact issue, ever figure it out?
@ZammianX yes.. the tuner I paid to do my car didn't tune it right and then my compression in 2 cylinders went... which thought me a powerful lesson... don't cheep out on a tune..
So if you open your oil can and you see smoke puffing out, check your conpression.. most likely broke a ring
@@beamerandthebeast3979 i’m down on 2 cylinders also, cylinder 5 and 6 🥲
I don’t think plumbing to the manifold is necessary, I’m not really good at this vacuum stuff but my brother has a ST setup and his does not run to the manifold
N54s pcv system is much more complicated then you think. This video shows how to do it the effective way. Theirs many wrong ways to do it and other ways.
For the ones watching this that haven’t single turbo there car and are going too do not put ur mac solenoid that clown to ur turbo it will cause problems did for me for his over boosting not saying that was the problem but it won’t help
boost side is useless after a year no oil caught