good video, most newer cars have well-designed airboxes. my neighbor had a scatpack Charger and paid around $300 for an air intake and ended up sending it back because it raised air intake temperatures a lot.
I have a scatpack challenger. The only thing I did was a k&n drop in filter because it does flow better and the snorkel that forces outside colder air directly into the air box. Cost me less than a 100 bucks total and air Temps stay at about 5 degrees above ambient when car is moving.
100% agreed. This goes for ever vehicle out there. There's a reason the manufacturer put it there, most of us are not mechanical engineers! We don't have millions of dollars going into R n D like they do. You are not doing a free mod bcuz you'll eventually pay for it in MPG. Spend money to save money and buy a proven design cold air intake, NOT A SHORT RAM cheapo one, spend the money to a true cold air intake that sucks from outside the engine bay, cold air = more 02 and better mileage.
Now technically your right, but also wrong. Basically your making it into a ram air filter that's bringing in hot air from the engine bay, which is why you see the difference in temperature, now that bit seems to have a sleeve with small sharkfins or vortex generators. The best thing to do is either (if you can) take that out and shave the airbox and add a k&n like you said. This allows for smoother (not faster or more air) but it's better to have it flow freely and smoothly without interruption. And the noise is just intake noise. Listen to a 4A-GE with some nice barrels and itbs and that's the sound your pretty much replicating
Just take the whole airbox out, hood off and unbolt the cat Thats the most power a cruze will make they are just rebadged daewoo Also do a quick search of the "walkinshaw cruze"
I love how after all of that bullshit, you said there is nothing wrong with a k&n filter in the air box... You know... The ones with so much of their oil on it that if you don't clean/oil them lighter, then you can fuck up your maf... Stick to something else. RUclips is not your game. ;)
You've just proved your ignorance. Anyone that isn't intelligent enough to NOT clean that type of filter before installation, should NOT be giving others advice. Secondly, an airflow sensor is a damn cheap part in grand scheme of things. So I'd much rather learn that the hard way than figuring out a lesson on something much more expensive. Third, the K&N that I reference, is specific to a turbo CRUZE, an intake SYSTEM, not just a filter. That SYSTEM has proper baffles to seal off the engine compartment from the filter, which helps isolate the engine bay's heat away from the filter. Any PROPER system mean for this car will have that. I never said removing the resonator will grenade your car, but it sure as hell isn't helping the IAT temps a bit. As with any vehicle with forced induction, the lower the charge air, the better. Not only does this help reduce the ECU with timing, but it helps reduce your chance of detonation, you know... that little thing that will absolutely destroy an engine in a hurry (pending your not running low octane fuel). I never stated that this WOULD indeed cause the above to happen, but why take the risk when you don't need to? In hot climates, IAT's tend to get pretty damn high when you don't have air flow, especially on this car which has an operating temp of 220-230. If you're so obsessed with hearing a little turbo noise, you're more than likely willing to do just about whatever to get it. Hence, you're probably not thinking of the longevity of your car. Which again, makes me wonder why that crowd would be here or even care what I had to say. This video is in no way intended to cure that specific disease. This is for people who may have heard about it, are considering or have done it, but don't know the POTENTIAL harm that they may be doing.
This logic is incorrect. Remember, the ECU will compensate by adding more fuel when more air is introduced, to maintain a proper AFR. Within it's limitations obviously. Aside from that, it's not likely going to allow more airflow. The most restrictive point of the intake is not pre-filter, so this alone would have no benefit. While it is true that higher temps help efficiency (to a degree) this little engine runs very hot (230ish F). Combine that with the introduction of hotter intake charge from the engine bay, most people running low octane fuel (87), and low airflow across the intercooler (think sitting in traffic)... You're creating the perfect recipe for greatly retarded timing (poor efficiency) and possibly pre-detonation (dead engine). Therefore, in my opinion, there's no benefit of this popular "mod".
@@Teratoma-T actually youre not taking into account the reduced pumping losses from hotter temperature air. the butterfly valve will be open more with same amount of gas.
The amount of deluded people that disliked this video. Pure ignorance and marketing victims... your mods are making more noise and less power, listen to this video and learn something.
Please cut your air box or get a K&N air filter I make money every time a car or truck comes in my shop because stupid people modify their air intakes. Motors won't last as long parts wear more . motors run like crap. I make money. Please be a real man and don't run any air filters at all and have a open intake like the dragsters. Never mind that the dragster motors only last a quarter mile and then they have to rebuild them. Be a real man and get a tattoo on your forehead that says I'm stupid I modify my air box. Oh by the way K&N air filters are crap in my book, they let in more air and dust polishing your piston walls. Oh what am I saying? buy K&N air filters I want more money for fixing your motors.
100% CORRECT......mod does not actually work....you cannot out design high pressured high paid engineers....unless you actually build a real racing vehicle.
I don't care about performance, I'll happily lose 5 horsepower to make my daily driver more enjoyable to take on a nice drive. Like you said, it's an economy car and it's not fast anyways.
I removed the whole air box for the sound. It's a lease who cares yes I've had a chipmunk get into my engine yes it was covered lol no I'm not putting it back on
That peice he took off is actually a cold air intake, removing that pipe will suck in hot air from the engine bay decreasing power, the main design for the air box is to get the maximum power for your engine as well as keeping dust and debre out
First off. “It’s an Econ car stop trying to mess with it” this guys a clown. I have a friend who has a boosted Cruze making 250 at the wheels. Making close to 40 mpg. Look at Honda Civic owners bruh. The point is no matter what if you remove the duct you do get more air flow. The duct is acting as a restriction for the car. Air isn’t as clean and hotter. Now in winter that might be useful.
Teenager civic and cruze owners who think like this are morons. 250hp is nothing. If you're bragging about gas mileage you shouldn't be trying for performance, pick one not both, ugly economy cruze isn't meant for that and it's not cool.
That's why the actual silencer box behind the bumper needs removed. The OEM ducting is inefficient. For best results, remove the passenger side brake duct inlet cover and duct from there into the engine bay. And no, you wont waterlog your engine short of it being completely submerged.
That’s neat and all, and not really trying to necro, but at actual driving temps what does the graph look like? And I’ll just say it, let’s all be realistic here, I can screenshot his screenshot and use it as “proof” that my engine runs cooler without the snorkel to the air box. Some other comments have also raised valid points as well though, namely, how MUCH and how QUICKLY can air get through all that ducting, into your engine/turbo? I mean, it’s what, 2”x4” for a couple feet at most, versus a 4”x5” hole that goes directly to your air box? The former seems pretty restrictive and not really conducive to getting fresh air in, if you ask me.
How much and how quickly is incredibly foolish. This is not water in a hose. Air is outside, in ducting, at throttle body, in exhaust etc. ALL the time. Whether idle, wot, or off, it is there. So yes, let's be realistic here... I've got data, you should need the same if we're going to discuss. Thoughts and feelings are meaningless. Fair?
That's what I did over the weekend. I cut some holes below my box and on the side away from the engine. Sounds alot better and I feel it a better response.
The people who dislike this video are the bro-gineers who think they can do better with just a high school semester of auto tech, then the team of engineers who designed the car 😆
You hear the psst or swoosh from the turbo because it has a recirculation valve not a atmospheric blow off valve it goes back into the airbox ....take stuff off the airbox you hear it , when the turbo dumps . Although the stock air box is a true cold air intake over a pipe and filter in the engine bay .
So how can I make that box look and sound as good as the CA intakes. Or how can I get the CA intakes to function as well as stock while looking and sounding cool as they do
@@RandoManFPV you need that big box thats comes with the expensive CAI that seals all the hot air from going into the filter the pipe goes into it then you close the hood it seals it off . I ran cheap CAI for awlile no box the filter went close to that hole were the stock air box inlet was no big deal the swoosh is loud 📢 by the glove box its not going to hurt anything but its not a true CAI the computer will sense hot air going in and either lean or richen your fuel your not going to hurt anything . You cant really mod the stock air box with out messing it up or allowing un clean air in drilling holes in it just to slightly hear the swoosh is lame better just get a cheap.CAI install and call it a day a blow off valve is were you will really hear the swoosh with out modding your box or using. CAI these cars have a recirculating valve that when the turbo dumps it goes back into the intake manifold thats why you cant hear it taking that off and putting a blow off valve you will hear that sucker for sure although some say you need a tune to use it ? Not sure about thst ZZP and BNR sell them theres a video on yiu tube BOV install chevy sonic ...
Small "economy cars" are what are sold to the public, then they modify them and are used in world class rally events in several group r classes. Some classes have limitations on what has to be stock, so any modifications to the stock components gives you a big advantage.
While you are correct, this statement can be very misleading. First and foremost, we are not driving rally cars around town are we? To set up a car for a race or some type of performance based event, you must make changes that allow you to achieve the result you're looking for. Therefore, as much as possible is changed / modified in order to achieve the best performance (usually best speed / shortest time), correct? Ok, stay with me.... No competition car is EVER intended to maintain reliability. Limits are pushed without service life (to a degree) being a factor. Name one purpose built racing style car that is serviced every 7k, 5k, or even 3k mi, while maintaining the reliability of 100k+ mi which has essentially become the industry standard. Secondly, while you theoretically could improve hp, tq, or MPG by modifying your intake, it is typically useless without supporting modifications. This means you should be tuning and modifying fuel trims to compensate for additional airflow. This by itself may be pointless however, as most vehicles fuel pumps / injectors are nearly maxed out from the factory. Point is, there are so many factors when it comes to properly modifying a vehicle, and each vehicle is a different monster in and of itself. Yes k&n and others will "promise" or make certain guarantees about thier products, but truth is, it's mostly garbage numbers meant to pursue people to buy thier products.
@@Teratoma-T ls400 performance and longevity built. Toyota spent 1billion in 86-89 to produce a car that got basically a formula1/indy style motor to beat s-class and 7 series competition. How many function ca smogged early 90s s-class or 7series do you see on the road compared to ls400 🤷🏽♂️. Million mile motors. I redline my 97 daily, 320k miles and counting. Definitely a different monster.
I had a Subaru Impreza turbo. I had a mushroom filter fitted and it was mapped. A rolling road tuning expert said the standard airbox was designed to allow up to 400bhp. They even keep them on some rally cars. He removed it and refitted the airbox. It ran smoother. You also get MAF sensor failure with oil coated filters. The sensor can also make the car worse if you fit a filter. The heat from the engine can give problems for filters and the MAF sensor. So I'd avoid fancy filters.
Remind me why you would care what where doing to our OWN cars? Live a little jeez... I mean yeah you have a point that it won't improve performance by a whole lot because your still using the stock intake pipe. But still why should you care what where doing to our cars?
@@Teratoma-T Thats a fair response. I just think instead of telling people "Don't do this" just say " I recommend you don't do this". I understand though, your videos your title. Otherwise totally fair, and i get your point.
That's also just flat out wrong. Most components are best kept under 90C for PCs. The higher your operating temps the faster the component will degrade, so it's in your best interest to have a cooling solution that prevents it from going any higher than 80 in bursts, and 60ish during normal loads. That being said, 90C translates to 194F, which is still just under the 195-220F operating ranges of most engines. If your CPU or GPU are running 90C consistently, something is very, very wrong and you should get it fixed immediately. Clearly, mathematics was not the strong suit of either yours, or the three idiots that upvoted your comment.
i took my off form a 1.6 turbo cruze and now i can hear the shhhhhhh ddddddddddssssssssssssssssssdddddddddd,Got it tuned by HPF and they said that makes no difference taking it off
Of course they will tell you it doesn't matter. They are selling that product or service to you after all. I'll give you credit though, if you're tuning to compensate for changes like this, your doing it correctly. So many people do not understand that this is a necessary step.
@@Teratoma-T how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
My Subaru Forester XT has had the original box air filter and "snorkus" removed BUT the snorkus was mounted down and outside of the engine compartment in front of the wheel well. The original air ducting to the engine was extended down to the same area and a pod filter added. The only disadvantage that I can see is that I need to avoid big puddles!
On newer vehicles, I'd leave most alone. But the old ones I don't mind going after like a mad man. I had a wore out 98 Ranger that in 4th at 55mph, an ice burg could pass me at immediate WOT. I took the silencer out and open up the rubber piece. Then I used some gasket maker and cardboard to get the new air inlet where it needed to be. It wasn't pretty but it definitely helped. Immediate WOT at 55 in 5th and the now gained speed and was faster in 4th than before. I drove it for about 6mo without a single issue. My current truck ('93 Hardbody) is about to have a modified air box to go with the ported throttle body and other simple quick mods.
Right, this was made for and geared specifically to turbo Chev Cruze, but the entire world thinks I mean everything. Whatever. Most newer cars are somewhat maxed out air wise stock. You'd need more potent injectors to match any additional air almost immediately, especially on these economy turbo 4's
Thats why your supposed to installe a heat shield over the open port people need to not assume things and make sure there sources are also valid and reliable anyone that knows ANYTHING about COLD AIR INTAKES knows this !! Mine is moded correctly guess what gas mileage went up and my boost is up without haveing to get all technical and manually turn the boost up
@@kadenperez4049 I'm wondering why another grown (clearly superior) man would feel the need to comment on a video about such a worthless existence of a car 🤦🤷♂️
By the way, I'd only use K&N air filters of any kind if I lived in a low dust area and frequent such area's. They are well proven to gain power by doing a horrible job at filtering. But if the CAI set up is installed correctly drawing cooler air in, due to a larger (poorly filtering) filtering media, you'll gain a little power.
Any Chevy HHR owner knows that this is rubbish advice, the stock cold air intake (The Dreaded Whooly Worm) is a coiled felt piece of shit, that you might as well be already having open to the hot engine air anyways. I'm apart of 4 FB groups dedicated to the HHR lines, and most of us HHR owners rip that bitch out, and put in something else, and actually see improvement, GM doesn't know shit!
Noup not a economic car is very expensive to fix and is a sport car. You have everything in the mini to say.....YES I have a pocket sport car. Rpm front in you, manual transmission good suspension etc.
At the end of the day if you like to mod your car DO IT who the fuck cares what anyone says if you enjoy it and you wanna trade some sound you think you hear vs some hp go for it its maybe 5-10 hp unless you are racing your car... if its a daily do what ever you want its your $
I added more small holes on that same tube with a drill to get more air coming through the tube for more air flow. I kept the original housing and air filter.
The comments are hilarious 😂. Intake noise and horsepower gains are two different things. The point of this is to truly understand how air temperature affects performance. If you're gonna remove any part of your air intake system you have to consider where your air filter will be sucking air in from. Hot air will kill your performance. If you get off on intake noise then just route your intake into your car's climate control ducting. That would give you some serious intake noise! Probably make you feel like you're inside the damn turbo. Hell, it might even make more horsepower than having an open air filter sucking in hot under hood air. Now that I remember, the Ford Lightning actually had a system that did just that! It sucked cold air in from the a/c system when you mashed the pedal. True story, Google it. I'm so doing this. Nice vid "crusher of dreams".
Hmm interesting, I am thinking though that would be like a bad A/C system that creates a negative pressure in the cabin. Effectively, it will pull whatever air is in from outside. All your seals will be making farting noises also.... At least that is how I picture it! 😂
Raising the temp by several factors affecting it but primarily, the ECU 'sees' the less dense airflow and adds less fuel to try achieve the optimal mixture. This lesser injection of fuel has a much lesser cooling effect on the air charge and the surfaces adjacent to the airflow, creating both sub optimal gas composition entering the combustion area but an accelerating heat soak consequence in the surfaces involved.... Which in turn has the potential to open more cans of worms. Especially if you're in traffic and putting the engine under high load whenever you have the chance so you can show everyone how powerful your ride is.... Hahaa. Ahhhh, kids these days....
Man I have my Kia Rio 5 jacked up in the air ready to take this thing off and then I watch this video I'm glad I did cuz there are a lot of videos out there saying that it will help your car especially the Kia Rio 5 thanks man you just save me a bunch of work
And that's your opinion.... But a Dyno will never be able to recreate more than a couple of real world conditions. I've spent weeks of real world driving evaluating both real time. That's not something you're going to be able to replicate by doing a few pulls on a Dyno.
@@Teratoma-T mind i tell you each car is different and will perform differently in my case i own a 2017 subaru impreza and by modding my stock intake and removing pointless shit my response time has increased torque level increased lower p.m. take off increased I notice a major difference
@@SWED904 exactly..... So please explain how your taking advice about a Chevrolet Cruze (turbo only, as stated in video) and interpreting that to your vehicle?
@@Teratoma-T what ???? Somthing about a turbo ??? What does this have to do with your car ??? Hughhh ? My car is not turboed and neither is yours ! I said each car will perform diffrently like mine it takes of better at low rpms its more responsive on the other hand your car will be more responsive on higher rpms or might not add a higer reapons but more air flow which will aid in better mpg !
@@SWED904 ok.... Clearly I have to spell this out for you. This video and information is NOT for you, this has nothing to do with your Subaru. This video is ONLY for 2010-2015 Chevrolet Cruze TURBO (1.4L) vehicles. There are a lot of things about cars that does apply to other vehicles, this is NOT one of those things, as stated before many many times. Secondly, the majority of Cruze's on the road are a 1.4L turbo, from the factory, yes... TURBO. Know what your talking about before you go on rants with people. What you do with your car is totally irrelevant to the information contained here.
Lol so i did remove this little pos plastic. Let me tell you. Ive got a 2011 an its been getting no lag in the motor. An believe it or not better gas mileage. Hes saying the air temp is hotter sure bit if the cooler is clean it's not that much like hea saying an showing.
So i have a topscan hooked up on my days off an im the only temp difference i see is down by 2 degrees. An it doesn't feel like the car is breathing through a straw. Its a simple little car. Working perfectly for me.
That may be. I ran it many times without, for testing and to have complete idea of situation. My recommendation is based on a few things, that may not apply to everyone, but are common across the board to most. The biggest issue is when it's very hot. I'm in the South and it's very frequently 95+ outside. Sitting in standstill traffic, IAT's rise QUICK and get no relief since there's not enough air across the cooler to do anything. You're sitting there heat soaking more and more the longer you're in slow traffic / sitting idle. And now with the coupler removed, your pulling in majority of air from engine bay, that little 1.4 gets HOT. I personally only used 93 Octane. But GM says 87 is fine. When running 87 (as is commonly done by the majority of folks, since it's cheaper) the timing is just about maxed out, and on a very hot day, with little air across the intercooler, IAT's are borderline dangerous, especially since you're now pulling air in from engine bay rathett than outside front bumper where the temps are much less. It's an unnecessary risk. So try again in the dead of summer, watch your temps while you're out there stuck in a drive-thru or in traffic, you'd be shocked how high your IATs will get.
I have a 2006 Honda Civic and the damn resonator just broke off while I was driving. I literally had to pull over and reach under the bumper and yank out the damn box. With that being said, now my damn car is sucking in hot air! I know it’s going to be pricey at the dealership. 😣
You're both right and wrong. I'll give you my experience with my air filter and engine. I have a stage1 1.9TDI AVF Passat, my stock intake hose going to the front of the car is way too small and I've actually noticed improved response after removing part of it, so basically now i have a bit of the og plastic tubing pushing fresh air towards the air box, which is now more open and can draw from the surrounding areas too. Yes, it does get a little bit hotter, but that's in no way harmful to the engine, remember, you're actually putting recirculated exhaust gases into it as well through the EGR so it isn't that big of a deal. It only matters if you're trying to squeeze the maximum performance out of it. But in my case, removing part of the cold air scoop basically let my engine breathe, it's no use breathing cold air if it's through a straw right?
Late response to this vid but, the part where he shows the snorkel back in and the air temp is not accurate. Yeah maybe on initial startup but after a good heat soak that IAT 2 temp is going to be closer to the 115 to 120 range. intercoolers do work but once you get heat in the turbo from a good boost session the temps are going to go up. I removed the snorkel on my 16 cruze and it did in fact make a big difference in response. The snorkel is too small and makes the turbo work too hard to produce the same boost pressure, those snorkels are not designed to move enough air under full boost. And forget it if you tune you car and raise the boost, I did a snorkel delete and k&n drop in filter. Now I am removing the rest of the stock snorkel and going with a 4inch duct from the front grill to lower the air temps. Best thing to do is too remove the factory snorkel and make your own, can easily be done and will allow you to keep the lower air temp and flow more air.
His air intake isn’t a straw though isn’t so you’re completely wrong. There’s no point having an open air intake if it’s hot air as if you actually listened to his video it creates problems. The air going to the engine should be as cold as possible
@@TechBrosGamingChannel you have mental learning difficulties and he doesn’t. Any normal person could understand what he’s saying, he even used scientific data to back up his points. I’ll buy you a pack of crayons for Christmas
More air in when requiring less throttle to open to let air in, less gas used.. doing a pretty good favor.. and when doing a intake mod where you open up the amount of air allowed to be taken in as well as directing this air from outside the engine bay then yessir, you are increasing efficiency.. if you do it right…. But my tacoma suckd air through the wheel well and had a 2” tube going 2 feet back in the well.. I deleted that and routed a new 8” duct directly to where the floodlights should go and put in a water diverter with a good filter and gave me all of 7 hp. Lol. But gas milage was way better…
Just watched a scotty Kilmer complaint about the same things they’ve ruined my day really sad ,so basically who ever wants a mode shouldn’t do it with their own cars.? Now am going to do the opposite I don’t care anymore.
It "works" but in my experience (no longer have that car), the CAI's are practically worthless. You're definitely not getting colder air, and not getting more air. It's a snake oil of sorts
Couldnt agree more, hot air kills power, still people try to invent the wheel over and over again. Listening to "broscience" and buying cheap ram airs/ induction systems and yeah if it sounds cool it must be better. NOT. If you have a N/A engine the engine will take as much air it need through original well serviced air filter. The problem isnt in that area at all if you searching for power.
HOT AIR KILLS POWER????? you are fucking insane HAHHAHAHAHA... engines are made to be run at a certain temperature. If hot air don't killed power, we wouldn't have egr if that was the case.
@@Sasasala386 You must been asleep at school. EGR doesnt have anything to do with power. Cold air have more efficiency. Cold vs hot air, for an example 10 degrees differens does 3% in horsepower. Thats basics you should know if you where educated.
The ducts are designed with baffles that are what actually lowers the noise from the air coming in. Ppl are doing this just to get a better sounding engine under acceleration.
Thank you! This literally solved my issue with my car since I bought it. Never would’ve thought it would fix it but I had an issue with my car losing torque when accelerating .. usually between 3500-4500 rpm. The car never had an air box or anything when I bought it. Everyone was telling me it could be the TPS sensor, MAF sensor, spark plugs, or fuel injectors so I had all of those changed and didn’t do anything … until I bought a box and put it in and it went away … now it’s running like an actual sports car
2016 the entire design of the cruze changed. While the engine at its core is extremely similar, it is not identical. I too can hear the turbo spool (faintly) if the conditions are right. But the point of this is to inform people that "modding" the air box isn't a good way to try and increase the noticeable sound of the turbo.
SSMowry I can hear it at all times not really thinking about mods to increase the turbo fun noises but I’d probably mess with it and get cai and downpipe
Just do a Jr. Air Aid Intake that uses the factory air box & fittings that deletes the resonator and uses a drop in filter. Got one on my truck, works great and doesn’t stall anymore like with the stock intake.
This information is so wrong what do you mean by don’t mess with the stock air filter, even if it’s an na application more airflow is used for more power, you said that not even a true cold air intake would work and that’s so wrong, if you use the correct cold air intake and exhaust combination and get a nice reflash or tune it will get way better performance. Tunning from a reputable tunner where I live is around 120$ maybe that’s why I see it as a good option but to each their own
You managed to get all the detail, except for the point that this is geared towards turbo Cruze models only. Which stock ducting truly comes from the front grille, i.e. Fresh air. Changing the stock airbox (sealed to ducting to front grille) means you're intake is is pulling majority of not all of it's air from engine bay, which will always be a significantly higher temp than ambient air. My info isn't wrong, your (like many others) interpretation is. Besides that point, this is geared towards the everyday person who slaps an intake on and calls it a day. Those folks aren't tuning.
I just got a 2014 chevy cruze and it was all redy took off and I'm geting horrible gas mileage and I need help how to put it back on how do I put all of it back on
Does it idle rough? You may want to look at the EGR that's built into the valve cover, common problem but GM has offered extra warranty so you may be covered. As for the duct, car-part.com is a national scrap yard search. Gmpartsdirect.com is a great source for new parts with helpful diagrams.
It really depends on what you have I have an F-150 and that thing that I have on my truck that I took off next down like three times smaller so it's really restrictive and I can feel that it accelerates a lot faster after I took it off and I know good and well my engine isn't going to overheat so I'll be fine thank you
Nowhere in this do I state that this is applicable to any other vehicle besides the turbo equipped cruze. Also, not once did I say that this would cause overheating. What I referred to is charge air temps. Again, this only applies to forced induction vehicles, specifically the turbo cruze in this instance. How you wound up interpreting any of this to apply to an F150, I'll never know.
how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
It's not a constant 10deg diff. These little engines run very hot as is (230f operating temp). Remember, intake temp pre and post turbo is not a constant variable. By modifying the intake you're now raising intake temp pre turbo by pulling air from within engine bay rather than front bumper. This difference in temp, could be substantial on a hot summer day sitting in traffic let's say. Deceased Fuel economy and poor performance is the best result, worst case is pre-detonation aka spark knock. Point is, why do something that would increase the risk of that?
But 10deg, even if it was a constant, absolutely could make a difference. Example: Water doesn't boil at 90°C. Correct? If you specifically need water to boil, you'll need that extra 10°. We're not worried about low temps in regards to these conditions. You're also referencing celsius, measuring in °F here in the states. +10°C is a much greater change than +10°F
A real machine? I don't turn wrenches for s living anymore, no need to go spend thousands of dollars on a full blown scan tool. This performs all the same functions, except for not having the ability to access all TCM, ABS sensors. As for accuracy, that's not the job of the scanner. The sensors output is the sensors output, period. The tool may not read data as quickly as the expensive units, but do thousands ofa second really matter for what I need? Again... No.
This is the modern day equivalent of “flipping the lid”. If you don’t know what that is I feel bad for you because you missed out on the “fun” era of cars.
An explanation of why it's bullcrap woulda been a good idea, you can't expect people to just blindly accept your word/opinion as fact. What you're hearing is low pressure air turbulence. (which, turbo charged engines often make when they run an open pod filter in the engine bay. *Which is also a dumb idea as the compressor has to do all the work drawing the air into the piping and impeller, and hot air from inside the engine bay at that....) Instead of extending the airbox cavity opening down near the area where high pressure air is flowing through the bumper and/or under the car, (which also has a smaller cross section for the opening to help transition the slower moving high pressure air to a slightly lower pressure but faster moving airflow.) When you remove this source of high velocity airflow into the airbox, you have a larger opening in the airbox cavity where the downward movement of the piston is essentially the only thing doing all the work to feed air into the engine by creating a vacuum and drawing air from the inlet into the combustion area. This air that is drawn into the combustion area is then filled by air that was in the airbox, which then draws air in through the opening in the cavity. Without getting caught up in unnecessary and overly complicated fluid dynamics, the cause of the sound is the air being drawn into the airbox and passing by the sharp edge of the opening. As air moves through the opening in the cavity, it is passing through a cross section and upon entering the airbox cavity the air is immediately exposed to the much larger cross section of the airbox and it's flow spreads put laterally to the lower pressure region adjacent to the flow direction into the airbox. This creates a vortex on the inside edge of the airbox cavity and the interaction of the tumbling air in the low pressure vortex against the higher pressure boundry layer of the airflow immediately entering the airbox results in friction between the air molecules. Ie; an energetic reaction we perceive as sound. When you have the airflow being guided from the high pressure region at the front/bottom of the engine bay, it is constantly feeding a relatively pressurized source of air into the airbox, even when the piston is not drawing air in. Which inturn fills up the cavity with a slightly pressurized reservior of air and when the piston moves down the pressure difference initiates the movement of air towards the low relatively pressure zone of the inlet. Which is why airboxes are a specific volume for the displacement and operating characteristics of the ICE. *There's much more to it, like the resonant properties of the airbox, the characteristics of the plenum n runner length n valve lift n AFM/MAP sensors etc etc, but that the general jist of it. If you want that noise, draw the air from the high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen, behind the rear lip of the bonnet and incorporate some small but well considered and placed vortex generators into the inlet. Or.... Stop being a retard and trying to roll a turd in glitter. If you're going to be loud, you at least should be fast so you can quickly get away from trouble/notice. If your car is slow, try make it quiet so you can sneak away from trouble/noticed. Being slow and loud is.... retarded. There's no other word for it.
Well explained. In all fairness, this was many years ago and even now I still struggle to translate things exactly how I'd like, in a dozen minutes or less. But regardless, the target audience usually won't listen regardless of how factual, and accurate you try to be. So in the end I hope it just provides a spark of a different idea, different opinion in someone's mind. You're right, there's so much more involved than what your average Joe thinks. Fuel tables, cooling effects of fuel mix, limit of injectors, etc.. In all honesty the video could be summed up to this... "OEM's spend millions in R&D for practically every part of a car (even the smallest of things are insanely expensive). Not saying they're perfect, or "maxed out" from factory, but typically they try to squeeze every bit of power / efficiency, while maintaining acceptable reliability. All the time and money spent is exponentially beyond what these aftermarket companies (or backyard wrenches) put into their products or "Mods". So while big claims are made, it's half-assed in many ways and not always the best of ideas. Thanks for all the time invested to write your comments. Hopefully someone will take note of it one day and maybe use it do make an informed decision.
good video, most newer cars have well-designed airboxes. my neighbor had a scatpack Charger and paid around $300 for an air intake and ended up sending it back because it raised air intake temperatures a lot.
I have a scatpack challenger. The only thing I did was a k&n drop in filter because it does flow better and the snorkel that forces outside colder air directly into the air box. Cost me less than a 100 bucks total and air Temps stay at about 5 degrees above ambient when car is moving.
@nrgrlsd9931 You haven't researched K&N drop in filters lol😅
@@yukonstriker1703 I stopped using them and switched to a dry high flow drop in air filter after my MAF sensor went bad.
@@uptownsamcv Yup. Blame the 'oil' lol.
Known issue
100% agreed. This goes for ever vehicle out there. There's a reason the manufacturer put it there, most of us are not mechanical engineers! We don't have millions of dollars going into R n D like they do. You are not doing a free mod bcuz you'll eventually pay for it in MPG. Spend money to save money and buy a proven design cold air intake, NOT A SHORT RAM cheapo one, spend the money to a true cold air intake that sucks from outside the engine bay, cold air = more 02 and better mileage.
there's a bunch of ricers giving dislikes to this guy when he's doing actual a good public information.
Thank you
Different day different temperature
A better mod is to put insulation reflective around the air box and a high flow air filter
Recorded horizontally😀👍
Now technically your right, but also wrong. Basically your making it into a ram air filter that's bringing in hot air from the engine bay, which is why you see the difference in temperature, now that bit seems to have a sleeve with small sharkfins or vortex generators. The best thing to do is either (if you can) take that out and shave the airbox and add a k&n like you said. This allows for smoother (not faster or more air) but it's better to have it flow freely and smoothly without interruption. And the noise is just intake noise. Listen to a 4A-GE with some nice barrels and itbs and that's the sound your pretty much replicating
Your method still increases heat soak
Driven with mine off for 3 years and havnt had a single issue 🤷🏻♂️
this has to be the dumbest airbox mod i've seen, you're removing a direct cold air feed lmao
@@MrRohanThomas no your not your still getting cold air😂😂😂 it’s the same installing the cold air intake
@@TTV_DubzzGaming It’s you’re. An abbreviation for you are. Your is for possession.
Example:
You’re sitting on your car
@@dboy2547 you think I give a shit smart ass and I did use proper grammar 🤦♂️
Just take the whole airbox out, hood off and unbolt the cat
Thats the most power a cruze will make they are just rebadged daewoo
Also do a quick search of the "walkinshaw cruze"
Question sir...what about Injen Cold Air Intake for a 350z VQ35HR? Are those any good?? Any information will help me out. Thanks in advance.
Injen short ram will decrease power
Well i tested it myself after i modded my airbox on my fiesta st and it did way better in thermals so ist just your car that doesnt work😂😂
Thing is, this wasn't made for your vehicle, so totally irrelevant.
@@Teratoma-T put it in the title than😉
I love how after all of that bullshit, you said there is nothing wrong with a k&n filter in the air box... You know... The ones with so much of their oil on it that if you don't clean/oil them lighter, then you can fuck up your maf... Stick to something else. RUclips is not your game. ;)
You've just proved your ignorance. Anyone that isn't intelligent enough to NOT clean that type of filter before installation, should NOT be giving others advice. Secondly, an airflow sensor is a damn cheap part in grand scheme of things. So I'd much rather learn that the hard way than figuring out a lesson on something much more expensive. Third, the K&N that I reference, is specific to a turbo CRUZE, an intake SYSTEM, not just a filter. That SYSTEM has proper baffles to seal off the engine compartment from the filter, which helps isolate the engine bay's heat away from the filter. Any PROPER system mean for this car will have that. I never said removing the resonator will grenade your car, but it sure as hell isn't helping the IAT temps a bit. As with any vehicle with forced induction, the lower the charge air, the better. Not only does this help reduce the ECU with timing, but it helps reduce your chance of detonation, you know... that little thing that will absolutely destroy an engine in a hurry (pending your not running low octane fuel). I never stated that this WOULD indeed cause the above to happen, but why take the risk when you don't need to? In hot climates, IAT's tend to get pretty damn high when you don't have air flow, especially on this car which has an operating temp of 220-230.
If you're so obsessed with hearing a little turbo noise, you're more than likely willing to do just about whatever to get it. Hence, you're probably not thinking of the longevity of your car. Which again, makes me wonder why that crowd would be here or even care what I had to say. This video is in no way intended to cure that specific disease. This is for people who may have heard about it, are considering or have done it, but don't know the POTENTIAL harm that they may be doing.
Seems like you hate people that want to do whatever they want with there own paid property. You’re honestly mad at people for doing this?.
Seems like you hate people that offer a second opinion with reason and logic behind it.
this would increase gas mileage through increased temps and airflow, so it is relevant for an economy car if that is your goal.
This logic is incorrect. Remember, the ECU will compensate by adding more fuel when more air is introduced, to maintain a proper AFR. Within it's limitations obviously. Aside from that, it's not likely going to allow more airflow. The most restrictive point of the intake is not pre-filter, so this alone would have no benefit.
While it is true that higher temps help efficiency (to a degree) this little engine runs very hot (230ish F). Combine that with the introduction of hotter intake charge from the engine bay, most people running low octane fuel (87), and low airflow across the intercooler (think sitting in traffic)... You're creating the perfect recipe for greatly retarded timing (poor efficiency) and possibly pre-detonation (dead engine). Therefore, in my opinion, there's no benefit of this popular "mod".
@@Teratoma-T actually youre not taking into account the reduced pumping losses from hotter temperature air. the butterfly valve will be open more with same amount of gas.
He’s not factoring in the intercooler cooling the air before entering the intake
He was revving it while taking that little test, the evidence is clearly visible 2000+ RPM’s
The amount of deluded people that disliked this video. Pure ignorance and marketing victims... your mods are making more noise and less power, listen to this video and learn something.
Please cut your air box or get a K&N air filter I make money every time a car or truck comes in my shop because stupid people modify their air intakes. Motors won't last as long parts wear more . motors run like crap. I make money. Please be a real man and don't run any air filters at all and have a open intake like the dragsters. Never mind that the dragster motors only last a quarter mile and then they have to rebuild them. Be a real man and get a tattoo on your forehead that says I'm stupid I modify my air box. Oh by the way K&N air filters are crap in my book, they let in more air and dust polishing your piston walls. Oh what am I saying? buy K&N air filters I want more money for fixing your motors.
100% CORRECT......mod does not actually work....you cannot out design high pressured high paid engineers....unless you actually build a real racing vehicle.
I don't care about performance, I'll happily lose 5 horsepower to make my daily driver more enjoyable to take on a nice drive. Like you said, it's an economy car and it's not fast anyways.
Why lose power, 4 cylinder engines sound awful anyway.
I removed the whole air box for the sound. It's a lease who cares yes I've had a chipmunk get into my engine yes it was covered lol no I'm not putting it back on
That peice he took off is actually a cold air intake, removing that pipe will suck in hot air from the engine bay decreasing power, the main design for the air box is to get the maximum power for your engine as well as keeping dust and debre out
yes. if u want colder air it has to around the bumper or fender well or use a ram air duct from teh front of the car grill bumper or foglight housing
@@Anthonyx99how do they keep from getting water in the intake with a ram air style intake?
But but my Honda goes broooommm😂😂😂
First off. “It’s an Econ car stop trying to mess with it” this guys a clown. I have a friend who has a boosted Cruze making 250 at the wheels. Making close to 40 mpg. Look at Honda Civic owners bruh. The point is no matter what if you remove the duct you do get more air flow. The duct is acting as a restriction for the car. Air isn’t as clean and hotter. Now in winter that might be useful.
Teenager civic and cruze owners who think like this are morons. 250hp is nothing. If you're bragging about gas mileage you shouldn't be trying for performance, pick one not both, ugly economy cruze isn't meant for that and it's not cool.
That's why the actual silencer box behind the bumper needs removed. The OEM ducting is inefficient. For best results, remove the passenger side brake duct inlet cover and duct from there into the engine bay. And no, you wont waterlog your engine short of it being completely submerged.
That’s neat and all, and not really trying to necro, but at actual driving temps what does the graph look like? And I’ll just say it, let’s all be realistic here, I can screenshot his screenshot and use it as “proof” that my engine runs cooler without the snorkel to the air box.
Some other comments have also raised valid points as well though, namely, how MUCH and how QUICKLY can air get through all that ducting, into your engine/turbo? I mean, it’s what, 2”x4” for a couple feet at most, versus a 4”x5” hole that goes directly to your air box? The former seems pretty restrictive and not really conducive to getting fresh air in, if you ask me.
How much and how quickly is incredibly foolish. This is not water in a hose. Air is outside, in ducting, at throttle body, in exhaust etc. ALL the time. Whether idle, wot, or off, it is there.
So yes, let's be realistic here...
I've got data, you should need the same if we're going to discuss. Thoughts and feelings are meaningless. Fair?
The swiss cheese mod it's the cheapest way to get more air into your stock air-box,you should try it....
That's what I did over the weekend. I cut some holes below my box and on the side away from the engine.
Sounds alot better and I feel it a better response.
The people who dislike this video are the bro-gineers who think they can do better with just a high school semester of auto tech, then the team of engineers who designed the car 😆
HAHAHAHA
You hear the psst or swoosh from the turbo because it has a recirculation valve not a atmospheric blow off valve it goes back into the airbox ....take stuff off the airbox you hear it , when the turbo dumps . Although the stock air box is a true cold air intake over a pipe and filter in the engine bay .
Exactly. Unfortunately too many people believe otherwise.
So how can I make that box look and sound as good as the CA intakes.
Or how can I get the CA intakes to function as well as stock while looking and sounding cool as they do
@@RandoManFPV you need that big box thats comes with the expensive CAI that seals all the hot air from going into the filter the pipe goes into it then you close the hood it seals it off . I ran cheap CAI for awlile no box the filter went close to that hole were the stock air box inlet was no big deal the swoosh is loud 📢 by the glove box its not going to hurt anything but its not a true CAI the computer will sense hot air going in and either lean or richen your fuel your not going to hurt anything . You cant really mod the stock air box with out messing it up or allowing un clean air in drilling holes in it just to slightly hear the swoosh is lame better just get a cheap.CAI install and call it a day a blow off valve is were you will really hear the swoosh with out modding your box or using. CAI these cars have a recirculating valve that when the turbo dumps it goes back into the intake manifold thats why you cant hear it taking that off and putting a blow off valve you will hear that sucker for sure although some say you need a tune to use it ? Not sure about thst ZZP and BNR sell them theres a video on yiu tube BOV install chevy sonic ...
@@RandoManFPV you mean 'hot air intake' 😂
Small "economy cars" are what are sold to the public, then they modify them and are used in world class rally events in several group r classes. Some classes have limitations on what has to be stock, so any modifications to the stock components gives you a big advantage.
While you are correct, this statement can be very misleading. First and foremost, we are not driving rally cars around town are we? To set up a car for a race or some type of performance based event, you must make changes that allow you to achieve the result you're looking for. Therefore, as much as possible is changed / modified in order to achieve the best performance (usually best speed / shortest time), correct? Ok, stay with me.... No competition car is EVER intended to maintain reliability. Limits are pushed without service life (to a degree) being a factor. Name one purpose built racing style car that is serviced every 7k, 5k, or even 3k mi, while maintaining the reliability of 100k+ mi which has essentially become the industry standard.
Secondly, while you theoretically could improve hp, tq, or MPG by modifying your intake, it is typically useless without supporting modifications. This means you should be tuning and modifying fuel trims to compensate for additional airflow. This by itself may be pointless however, as most vehicles fuel pumps / injectors are nearly maxed out from the factory.
Point is, there are so many factors when it comes to properly modifying a vehicle, and each vehicle is a different monster in and of itself. Yes k&n and others will "promise" or make certain guarantees about thier products, but truth is, it's mostly garbage numbers meant to pursue people to buy thier products.
2020 civic type r, Ferrari’s there’s 2 dummy
"Any modification". Only those that matters. Letting your engine breath hot air isnt one of the modifications that improve performance.
@@Teratoma-T ls400 performance and longevity built. Toyota spent 1billion in 86-89 to produce a car that got basically a formula1/indy style motor to beat s-class and 7 series competition. How many function ca smogged early 90s s-class or 7series do you see on the road compared to ls400 🤷🏽♂️. Million mile motors. I redline my 97 daily, 320k miles and counting. Definitely a different monster.
@@kadenperez4049 your lack of ability to stick to context impresses me.
I had a Subaru Impreza turbo. I had a mushroom filter fitted and it was mapped.
A rolling road tuning expert said the standard airbox was designed to allow up to 400bhp. They even keep them on some rally cars.
He removed it and refitted the airbox. It ran smoother.
You also get MAF sensor failure with oil coated filters. The sensor can also make the car worse if you fit a filter. The heat from the engine can give problems for filters and the MAF sensor.
So I'd avoid fancy filters.
You got it all wrong
Remind me why you would care what where doing to our OWN cars? Live a little jeez...
I mean yeah you have a point that it won't improve performance by a whole lot because your still using the stock intake pipe. But still why should you care what where doing to our cars?
The same reason why you care what I care. It's advice, take it or leave it.
@@Teratoma-T Thats a fair response. I just think instead of telling people "Don't do this" just say " I recommend you don't do this". I understand though, your videos your title. Otherwise totally fair, and i get your point.
The ppl that thought removing and actual cooler air intake duct helps cannot be helped they believe hype not facts
Truth
Very nice appreciate the graph and proof I was gonna do same shit to my mercedes c300 I put the intake tube back on
Computers Run hotter then that engine boi cmon
Yeah... Because commuters and internal combustion engines operate identically
That's also just flat out wrong. Most components are best kept under 90C for PCs. The higher your operating temps the faster the component will degrade, so it's in your best interest to have a cooling solution that prevents it from going any higher than 80 in bursts, and 60ish during normal loads.
That being said, 90C translates to 194F, which is still just under the 195-220F operating ranges of most engines. If your CPU or GPU are running 90C consistently, something is very, very wrong and you should get it fixed immediately.
Clearly, mathematics was not the strong suit of either yours, or the three idiots that upvoted your comment.
@@audiogarden21 Pretty sure it was sarcasm bro, chill out!
i took my off form a 1.6 turbo cruze and now i can hear the shhhhhhh ddddddddddssssssssssssssssssdddddddddd,Got it tuned by HPF and they said that makes no difference taking it off
Of course they will tell you it doesn't matter. They are selling that product or service to you after all.
I'll give you credit though, if you're tuning to compensate for changes like this, your doing it correctly. So many people do not understand that this is a necessary step.
@@Teratoma-T how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
My Subaru Forester XT has had the original box air filter and "snorkus" removed BUT the snorkus was mounted down and outside of the engine compartment in front of the wheel well.
The original air ducting to the engine was extended down to the same area and a pod filter added. The only disadvantage that I can see is that I need to avoid big puddles!
On newer vehicles, I'd leave most alone. But the old ones I don't mind going after like a mad man.
I had a wore out 98 Ranger that in 4th at 55mph, an ice burg could pass me at immediate WOT.
I took the silencer out and open up the rubber piece. Then I used some gasket maker and cardboard to get the new air inlet where it needed to be.
It wasn't pretty but it definitely helped. Immediate WOT at 55 in 5th and the now gained speed and was faster in 4th than before.
I drove it for about 6mo without a single issue. My current truck ('93 Hardbody) is about to have a modified air box to go with the ported throttle body and other simple quick mods.
I have a 1994 f150. Maybe I’ll give it a try
Right, this was made for and geared specifically to turbo Chev Cruze, but the entire world thinks I mean everything. Whatever. Most newer cars are somewhat maxed out air wise stock. You'd need more potent injectors to match any additional air almost immediately, especially on these economy turbo 4's
Thats why your supposed to installe a heat shield over the open port people need to not assume things and make sure there sources are also valid and reliable anyone that knows ANYTHING about COLD AIR INTAKES knows this !! Mine is moded correctly guess what gas mileage went up and my boost is up without haveing to get all technical and manually turn the boost up
Bub Rub says the whistle go "woo woo"!
thats only in the mornin tho
Thank for the tips and the video amazing work sir, will maybe get a high flow air filter!
The mods depends on the type of the car intake design.
And as stated, this is specifically aimed for turbo cruze's
@@Teratoma-T why would a full grown man own a cruze or discuss its puny existance on earth anyway 🤦🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️
@@kadenperez4049 I'm wondering why another grown (clearly superior) man would feel the need to comment on a video about such a worthless existence of a car 🤦🤷♂️
@@Teratoma-T haha. Funny
@@Teratoma-T bada-bing!!
By the way, I'd only use K&N air filters of any kind if I lived in a low dust area and frequent such area's.
They are well proven to gain power by doing a horrible job at filtering. But if the CAI set up is installed correctly drawing cooler air in, due to a larger (poorly filtering) filtering media, you'll gain a little power.
Indeed.... IF your injectors and fuel trims can support. In the case of that 1.4 car, injectors are nearly maxed from factory and on 93 gas
Any Chevy HHR owner knows that this is rubbish advice, the stock cold air intake (The Dreaded Whooly Worm) is a coiled felt piece of shit, that you might as well be already having open to the hot engine air anyways. I'm apart of 4 FB groups dedicated to the HHR lines, and most of us HHR owners rip that bitch out, and put in something else, and actually see improvement, GM doesn't know shit!
Noup not a economic car is very expensive to fix and is a sport car. You have everything in the mini to say.....YES I have a pocket sport car. Rpm front in you, manual transmission good suspension etc.
At the end of the day if you like to mod your car DO IT who the fuck cares what anyone says if you enjoy it and you wanna trade some sound you think you hear vs some hp go for it its maybe 5-10 hp unless you are racing your car... if its a daily do what ever you want its your $
**LMFAO. Come on man let them enjoy it some like the sound.....**
its not performance its economy" i still dont know what the fuck kind of vehicle he talking bout. i was lookin up 05 mustang cobra mods
I added more small holes on that same tube with a drill to get more air coming through the tube for more air flow. I kept the original housing and air filter.
Let’s all be honest nobody does that to get performance or power it’s just the sound I’m guilty
The comments are hilarious 😂. Intake noise and horsepower gains are two different things. The point of this is to truly understand how air temperature affects performance. If you're gonna remove any part of your air intake system you have to consider where your air filter will be sucking air in from. Hot air will kill your performance. If you get off on intake noise then just route your intake into your car's climate control ducting. That would give you some serious intake noise! Probably make you feel like you're inside the damn turbo. Hell, it might even make more horsepower than having an open air filter sucking in hot under hood air. Now that I remember, the Ford Lightning actually had a system that did just that! It sucked cold air in from the a/c system when you mashed the pedal. True story, Google it. I'm so doing this. Nice vid "crusher of dreams".
Hmm interesting, I am thinking though that would be like a bad A/C system that creates a negative pressure in the cabin. Effectively, it will pull whatever air is in from outside. All your seals will be making farting noises also.... At least that is how I picture it! 😂
Not only that, you are making it easier for rodents to find their way into your airbox
Valid point! I've never had the issue personally, but have witnessed it on customer's vehicles
Say what you will but I love the sound the blow off valve makes now with my intake. I could barely hear it before.
Trading actual performance and lowering engine lifespan for 'cool sound'. You haven't been driving for more than a few years tops.
Lol @ all the people that think they know more than the engineers who designed the cars 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Raising the temp by several factors affecting it but primarily, the ECU 'sees' the less dense airflow and adds less fuel to try achieve the optimal mixture. This lesser injection of fuel has a much lesser cooling effect on the air charge and the surfaces adjacent to the airflow, creating both sub optimal gas composition entering the combustion area but an accelerating heat soak consequence in the surfaces involved.... Which in turn has the potential to open more cans of worms.
Especially if you're in traffic and putting the engine under high load whenever you have the chance so you can show everyone how powerful your ride is.... Hahaa.
Ahhhh, kids these days....
Kids these days indeed.... Our future will be uhh..... Interesting.
Wish I seen this video before I did the Mopar CAI on my cat would have liked to known the before and after
When aftermarket intake are installed they should be turned
Anyone with any kind of mechanical common sense knows that any air sucked in from the engine compartment is not any kind of cold air.
Common sense is not so common
@@Teratoma-T Truth lol. I get a headache on a daily basis witnessing how some can even function on their own. It's ridiculous.
Good advice . hopefly kids listen....
Most don't, oh well. To each their own I suppose
@@Teratoma-T yup theyll learn the hard way which is fine. give them experience
Man I have my Kia Rio 5 jacked up in the air ready to take this thing off and then I watch this video I'm glad I did cuz there are a lot of videos out there saying that it will help your car especially the Kia Rio 5 thanks man you just save me a bunch of work
Airbox drilling, induction kits. All BS
Umm ok its your opinun its all been proven on the dyno your wrong just letting you know
And that's your opinion.... But a Dyno will never be able to recreate more than a couple of real world conditions. I've spent weeks of real world driving evaluating both real time. That's not something you're going to be able to replicate by doing a few pulls on a Dyno.
@@Teratoma-T mind i tell you each car is different and will perform differently in my case i own a 2017 subaru impreza and by modding my stock intake and removing pointless shit my response time has increased torque level increased lower p.m. take off increased I notice a major difference
@@SWED904 exactly..... So please explain how your taking advice about a Chevrolet Cruze (turbo only, as stated in video) and interpreting that to your vehicle?
@@Teratoma-T what ???? Somthing about a turbo ??? What does this have to do with your car ??? Hughhh ? My car is not turboed and neither is yours ! I said each car will perform diffrently like mine it takes of better at low rpms its more responsive on the other hand your car will be more responsive on higher rpms or might not add a higer reapons but more air flow which will aid in better mpg !
@@SWED904 ok.... Clearly I have to spell this out for you. This video and information is NOT for you, this has nothing to do with your Subaru.
This video is ONLY for 2010-2015 Chevrolet Cruze TURBO (1.4L) vehicles.
There are a lot of things about cars that does apply to other vehicles, this is NOT one of those things, as stated before many many times.
Secondly, the majority of Cruze's on the road are a 1.4L turbo, from the factory, yes... TURBO. Know what your talking about before you go on rants with people. What you do with your car is totally irrelevant to the information contained here.
Lol so i did remove this little pos plastic. Let me tell you. Ive got a 2011 an its been getting no lag in the motor. An believe it or not better gas mileage. Hes saying the air temp is hotter sure bit if the cooler is clean it's not that much like hea saying an showing.
So i have a topscan hooked up on my days off an im the only temp difference i see is down by 2 degrees. An it doesn't feel like the car is breathing through a straw. Its a simple little car. Working perfectly for me.
That may be. I ran it many times without, for testing and to have complete idea of situation.
My recommendation is based on a few things, that may not apply to everyone, but are common across the board to most.
The biggest issue is when it's very hot. I'm in the South and it's very frequently 95+ outside. Sitting in standstill traffic, IAT's rise QUICK and get no relief since there's not enough air across the cooler to do anything. You're sitting there heat soaking more and more the longer you're in slow traffic / sitting idle. And now with the coupler removed, your pulling in majority of air from engine bay, that little 1.4 gets HOT.
I personally only used 93 Octane. But GM says 87 is fine. When running 87 (as is commonly done by the majority of folks, since it's cheaper) the timing is just about maxed out, and on a very hot day, with little air across the intercooler, IAT's are borderline dangerous, especially since you're now pulling air in from engine bay rathett than outside front bumper where the temps are much less.
It's an unnecessary risk.
So try again in the dead of summer, watch your temps while you're out there stuck in a drive-thru or in traffic, you'd be shocked how high your IATs will get.
I have a 2006 Honda Civic and the damn resonator just broke off while I was driving. I literally had to pull over and reach under the bumper and yank out the damn box. With that being said, now my damn car is sucking in hot air! I know it’s going to be pricey at the dealership. 😣
thats why you dont take it in to a dealership to get fixed
what kind of dummy removes ducting that provides the intake with fresh air?
Unfortunately lots.
You're both right and wrong. I'll give you my experience with my air filter and engine. I have a stage1 1.9TDI AVF Passat, my stock intake hose going to the front of the car is way too small and I've actually noticed improved response after removing part of it, so basically now i have a bit of the og plastic tubing pushing fresh air towards the air box, which is now more open and can draw from the surrounding areas too. Yes, it does get a little bit hotter, but that's in no way harmful to the engine, remember, you're actually putting recirculated exhaust gases into it as well through the EGR so it isn't that big of a deal. It only matters if you're trying to squeeze the maximum performance out of it. But in my case, removing part of the cold air scoop basically let my engine breathe, it's no use breathing cold air if it's through a straw right?
Xander Skeiron couldn’t have said it better my friend
Well cold air is essential for power, hotter air decrease power. True story. Maybe yor modification sounds better but you gain no power.
Late response to this vid but, the part where he shows the snorkel back in and the air temp is not accurate. Yeah maybe on initial startup but after a good heat soak that IAT 2 temp is going to be closer to the 115 to 120 range. intercoolers do work but once you get heat in the turbo from a good boost session the temps are going to go up. I removed the snorkel on my 16 cruze and it did in fact make a big difference in response. The snorkel is too small and makes the turbo work too hard to produce the same boost pressure, those snorkels are not designed to move enough air under full boost. And forget it if you tune you car and raise the boost, I did a snorkel delete and k&n drop in filter. Now I am removing the rest of the stock snorkel and going with a 4inch duct from the front grill to lower the air temps. Best thing to do is too remove the factory snorkel and make your own, can easily be done and will allow you to keep the lower air temp and flow more air.
His air intake isn’t a straw though isn’t so you’re completely wrong. There’s no point having an open air intake if it’s hot air as if you actually listened to his video it creates problems. The air going to the engine should be as cold as possible
Unless it’s a race car! The Stock air box will keep the heat out! Don’t waste your money!
Precisely
The Karen in the car world. There’s a Karen in every group.
Including the comment section.
@@Teratoma-T Yep. And you're it buddy. lol
You do you and we'll do our thing
@@Teratoma-T What you doin outside the kitchen, Karen?
@@Teratoma-Twho tryna do performance mods on a Chevy Cruz😂 he’s right ya’ll goofy for that shit
@@TechBrosGamingChannel you have mental learning difficulties and he doesn’t. Any normal person could understand what he’s saying, he even used scientific data to back up his points. I’ll buy you a pack of crayons for Christmas
Dont lie Dr Phil il cut my airbox tomorow
Run premium fuel dude....no knock.....ever!
Oh trust me, I do. Lucky enough to have 93 readily available in my area.
Is that Jake delome
More air in when requiring less throttle to open to let air in, less gas used.. doing a pretty good favor.. and when doing a intake mod where you open up the amount of air allowed to be taken in as well as directing this air from outside the engine bay then yessir, you are increasing efficiency.. if you do it right…. But my tacoma suckd air through the wheel well and had a 2” tube going 2 feet back in the well.. I deleted that and routed a new 8” duct directly to where the floodlights should go and put in a water diverter with a good filter and gave me all of 7 hp. Lol. But gas milage was way better…
Your very much wrong on the part you removed thats not a silencer nor the part commonly removed but I understand you had to make a video.
Just watched a scotty Kilmer complaint about the same things they’ve ruined my day really sad ,so basically who ever wants a mode shouldn’t do it with their own cars.? Now am going to do the opposite I don’t care anymore.
Just Swiss cheese your box
Why would you even bother with a Chevy loser cruiser
Why would you bother with the time to comment about said loser cruiser?
like fuck economy car just make it sound better few less millage is nothing
Acura is Honda's usa luxury/sport brand. But hey who cares when you put down the young car guy. Let them learn by error
So the aftermarket short air intakes doesnt works?
It "works" but in my experience (no longer have that car), the CAI's are practically worthless. You're definitely not getting colder air, and not getting more air. It's a snake oil of sorts
Couldnt agree more, hot air kills power, still people try to invent the wheel over and over again. Listening to "broscience" and buying cheap ram airs/ induction systems and yeah if it sounds cool it must be better. NOT. If you have a N/A engine the engine will take as much air it need through original well serviced air filter. The problem isnt in that area at all if you searching for power.
Wise words
HOT AIR KILLS POWER????? you are fucking insane HAHHAHAHAHA... engines are made to be run at a certain temperature. If hot air don't killed power, we wouldn't have egr if that was the case.
@@Sasasala386 You must been asleep at school. EGR doesnt have anything to do with power. Cold air have more efficiency. Cold vs hot air, for an example 10 degrees differens does 3% in horsepower. Thats basics you should know if you where educated.
Well, the battle continues. Both sides speak as though they are the truth.
@@Sasasala386 yes hot air is less dense therefore it does kill power and EGR systems do rob power lol thats why many diesels owners do EGR deletes
The ducts are designed with baffles that are what actually lowers the noise from the air coming in. Ppl are doing this just to get a better sounding engine under acceleration.
Thank you! This literally solved my issue with my car since I bought it. Never would’ve thought it would fix it but I had an issue with my car losing torque when accelerating .. usually between 3500-4500 rpm. The car never had an air box or anything when I bought it. Everyone was telling me it could be the TPS sensor, MAF sensor, spark plugs, or fuel injectors so I had all of those changed and didn’t do anything … until I bought a box and put it in and it went away … now it’s running like an actual sports car
My 2018 Cruze turbo whistle and bov I can hear from stock 🤷🏽♂️
2016 the entire design of the cruze changed. While the engine at its core is extremely similar, it is not identical. I too can hear the turbo spool (faintly) if the conditions are right. But the point of this is to inform people that "modding" the air box isn't a good way to try and increase the noticeable sound of the turbo.
SSMowry I can hear it at all times not really thinking about mods to increase the turbo fun noises but I’d probably mess with it and get cai and downpipe
Alright Hank hill
boooooo
Hater 😂
Ok sorry
Yea bro, but this thing purrs (engine blows gaskets)
Just do a Jr. Air Aid Intake that uses the factory air box & fittings that deletes the resonator and uses a drop in filter. Got one on my truck, works great and doesn’t stall anymore like with the stock intake.
This information is so wrong what do you mean by don’t mess with the stock air filter, even if it’s an na application more airflow is used for more power, you said that not even a true cold air intake would work and that’s so wrong, if you use the correct cold air intake and exhaust combination and get a nice reflash or tune it will get way better performance. Tunning from a reputable tunner where I live is around 120$ maybe that’s why I see it as a good option but to each their own
You managed to get all the detail, except for the point that this is geared towards turbo Cruze models only. Which stock ducting truly comes from the front grille, i.e. Fresh air. Changing the stock airbox (sealed to ducting to front grille) means you're intake is is pulling majority of not all of it's air from engine bay, which will always be a significantly higher temp than ambient air. My info isn't wrong, your (like many others) interpretation is.
Besides that point, this is geared towards the everyday person who slaps an intake on and calls it a day. Those folks aren't tuning.
more fuel, more spark, more air.....more power! unless u don't know what ur doing don't F***K with it! what ive learned.
I just got a 2014 chevy cruze and it was all redy took off and I'm geting horrible gas mileage and I need help how to put it back on how do I put all of it back on
Does it idle rough? You may want to look at the EGR that's built into the valve cover, common problem but GM has offered extra warranty so you may be covered.
As for the duct, car-part.com is a national scrap yard search. Gmpartsdirect.com is a great source for new parts with helpful diagrams.
It really depends on what you have I have an F-150 and that thing that I have on my truck that I took off next down like three times smaller so it's really restrictive and I can feel that it accelerates a lot faster after I took it off and I know good and well my engine isn't going to overheat so I'll be fine thank you
Nowhere in this do I state that this is applicable to any other vehicle besides the turbo equipped cruze. Also, not once did I say that this would cause overheating. What I referred to is charge air temps. Again, this only applies to forced induction vehicles, specifically the turbo cruze in this instance. How you wound up interpreting any of this to apply to an F150, I'll never know.
SSMowry I’m not arguing whether this works or not, just stating a fact: there is a twin turbo F-150
There’s f-150’s with forced induction, theyr called Lightning’s. Again speaking when u have no idea what your talking about
Okay, but not all vehicle's intake tubing is a functional scoop like yours. Mine is just a closed ended tube with a hole bored on the under side of it
Notice how I never mentioned any vehicle besides the Cruze (turbo models)? Theres a reason for that..... This wasn't for you or your vehicle.
Thanks
I hate my air box it’s not attached to anything on the bottom and rattles when going over bumps
oh wow look ! gas was more expensive than in sep 2020! best part of the video haha!
how does 10 degrees make a massive difference? To make the timing go out of wack? I live in Canada and the temperature changes from +40C to sometimes -40C. There is more than a 10 degree difference.
It's not a constant 10deg diff. These little engines run very hot as is (230f operating temp). Remember, intake temp pre and post turbo is not a constant variable. By modifying the intake you're now raising intake temp pre turbo by pulling air from within engine bay rather than front bumper. This difference in temp, could be substantial on a hot summer day sitting in traffic let's say. Deceased Fuel economy and poor performance is the best result, worst case is pre-detonation aka spark knock. Point is, why do something that would increase the risk of that?
But 10deg, even if it was a constant, absolutely could make a difference.
Example:
Water doesn't boil at 90°C. Correct? If you specifically need water to boil, you'll need that extra 10°.
We're not worried about low temps in regards to these conditions. You're also referencing celsius, measuring in °F here in the states. +10°C is a much greater change than +10°F
V8 = I don't care a bit about mpg Smiles per gallon Bub not miles per gallon
I bet that temp reads somthing diff every time with that stupid app get a real machine
A real machine? I don't turn wrenches for s living anymore, no need to go spend thousands of dollars on a full blown scan tool. This performs all the same functions, except for not having the ability to access all TCM, ABS sensors.
As for accuracy, that's not the job of the scanner. The sensors output is the sensors output, period. The tool may not read data as quickly as the expensive units, but do thousands ofa second really matter for what I need? Again... No.
This is the modern day equivalent of “flipping the lid”. If you don’t know what that is I feel bad for you because you missed out on the “fun” era of cars.
Whats that intro tune its a banger
An explanation of why it's bullcrap woulda been a good idea, you can't expect people to just blindly accept your word/opinion as fact.
What you're hearing is low pressure air turbulence.
(which, turbo charged engines often make when they run an open pod filter in the engine bay. *Which is also a dumb idea as the compressor has to do all the work drawing the air into the piping and impeller, and hot air from inside the engine bay at that....) Instead of extending the airbox cavity opening down near the area where high pressure air is flowing through the bumper and/or under the car, (which also has a smaller cross section for the opening to help transition the slower moving high pressure air to a slightly lower pressure but faster moving airflow.)
When you remove this source of high velocity airflow into the airbox, you have a larger opening in the airbox cavity where the downward movement of the piston is essentially the only thing doing all the work to feed air into the engine by creating a vacuum and drawing air from the inlet into the combustion area. This air that is drawn into the combustion area is then filled by air that was in the airbox, which then draws air in through the opening in the cavity. Without getting caught up in unnecessary and overly complicated fluid dynamics, the cause of the sound is the air being drawn into the airbox and passing by the sharp edge of the opening. As air moves through the opening in the cavity, it is passing through a cross section and upon entering the airbox cavity the air is immediately exposed to the much larger cross section of the airbox and it's flow spreads put laterally to the lower pressure region adjacent to the flow direction into the airbox. This creates a vortex on the inside edge of the airbox cavity and the interaction of the tumbling air in the low pressure vortex against the higher pressure boundry layer of the airflow immediately entering the airbox results in friction between the air molecules. Ie; an energetic reaction we perceive as sound.
When you have the airflow being guided from the high pressure region at the front/bottom of the engine bay, it is constantly feeding a relatively pressurized source of air into the airbox, even when the piston is not drawing air in. Which inturn fills up the cavity with a slightly pressurized reservior of air and when the piston moves down the pressure difference initiates the movement of air towards the low relatively pressure zone of the inlet. Which is why airboxes are a specific volume for the displacement and operating characteristics of the ICE. *There's much more to it, like the resonant properties of the airbox, the characteristics of the plenum n runner length n valve lift n AFM/MAP sensors etc etc, but that the general jist of it.
If you want that noise, draw the air from the high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen, behind the rear lip of the bonnet and incorporate some small but well considered and placed vortex generators into the inlet.
Or....
Stop being a retard and trying to roll a turd in glitter. If you're going to be loud, you at least should be fast so you can quickly get away from trouble/notice. If your car is slow, try make it quiet so you can sneak away from trouble/noticed.
Being slow and loud is.... retarded. There's no other word for it.
Well explained. In all fairness, this was many years ago and even now I still struggle to translate things exactly how I'd like, in a dozen minutes or less. But regardless, the target audience usually won't listen regardless of how factual, and accurate you try to be. So in the end I hope it just provides a spark of a different idea, different opinion in someone's mind. You're right, there's so much more involved than what your average Joe thinks. Fuel tables, cooling effects of fuel mix, limit of injectors, etc..
In all honesty the video could be summed up to this... "OEM's spend millions in R&D for practically every part of a car (even the smallest of things are insanely expensive). Not saying they're perfect, or "maxed out" from factory, but typically they try to squeeze every bit of power / efficiency, while maintaining acceptable reliability. All the time and money spent is exponentially beyond what these aftermarket companies (or backyard wrenches) put into their products or "Mods". So while big claims are made, it's half-assed in many ways and not always the best of ideas.
Thanks for all the time invested to write your comments. Hopefully someone will take note of it one day and maybe use it do make an informed decision.
@@Teratoma-T
Very mature reply. Thank you.