I agree with you. That gap butt joint looks polished. We use a ton of poplar 1x material in Southern California but it’s always painted when we use it for millwork and cabinetry/built-ins.
Did you consider a chamfer vs a rebate? Doesn't the tongue edge profile (beyond the base of the tongue to the face) have a tapered edge? I think that might also look nice
Hi Spencer, Poplar is a great wood to work with and finishes great. Wil stain nice and even. Ever considered using quarter sawn poplar to somewhat eliminate the grain issue. Could you get the mill to end match the siding like you just showed and that way if you would have any shrinkage (which is usually nominal on the length) it would be unnoticable. Nice to have you back. 😊😊😊
Great move on matching the gap at the butts. I'll have to keep that in the back pocket. We did a massive rough sawn shiplap cathedral ceiling back in the day and pre-stained everything. Pobably 5 gallons of stain. Was almost a huge problem because we didn't box all of the gallons so we had pretty dramatic color variations on the ceiling. The client was an interior designer and didn't really like the pictures but absolutely loved it in person. The color variation really made things pop instead of just a huge single color. Dodged a bullet and learned to appreciate the variation in color rather than assuming a big mass of one color was the only way to go. I would do the exact same to my house if/when i cathedral everything. It looked awesome.
I have used this detail on a large deck. We called it celebrating the joints. It really can make or break a project, in my opinion. Nice to see you and learn more from you! You were missed.
Yup, good call. I've done a number of massive ceilings with v-groove pine and kept a cordless router with a chamfer bit handy for a similar effect on the butt joints.
That’s a great looking shadow line that I bet would really shine painted ! Hope your family is well Spence in my prayers ! Is there a video in the Queue for “ Flat Crown w/ a shadow line “?
I agree. Butts almost never hide. Problem with oak is it’s not very expensive looking unless you fill the grain. You make me miss the Midwest, especially when you talk about the price of hardwood.
Clean looking job, as always! Funny enough I made a ton of shiplap out of 1/2” ply scrap from my work. I was thinking of what it would look like to have a gap when I butt the ends and this video helped me visualize that! I like the look a lot, but would be curious to see if it would still look as good painted
Looks fantastic. I love working with poplar unfortunately my skill set is only rated for paint grade work. Hopefully, you can get some video once its stained. Thanks Spencer.
Nice work great detail for the butt joints. Never have been a big fan of stained or unfinished popular but that's not my/your decision, and high end install would look great for any species of wood. Ray
I saw poplar dyed, not stained, back when I was just getting started in the trade. It was an untrained eye, but I remember being impressed as to how well everything blended together. Thanks for the video.
I like the poplar on the walls. It doesn’t read as heavy like white oak and it doesn’t look like flooring material. Will look really good after stained. And don’t get me wrong, I love white oak, my favorite in fact but poplar worked well for this job.
I agree it looks way better! Spencer can you share your thoughts on the festool kapex with the extension wings? Work from my garage and have to out everything away when finished. Haven’t found a great solution and mostly use a tracksaw for everything, but very time consuming that way for repeatable cuts
I have notice in your installs, you have use a lot of poplar for staining. do you have any pictures or videos of the finished stained poplar? I have only painted poplar.
I'm paying a little under $4 a bf for poplar here. Just bought some white oak and it's $9-12+ a bf. Thats wholesale price in my area. We trim a lot in alder here.
Fantastic detail. I've done this before but I used a standard adjustable rabbeting bit. That small offset bit is really cool and I'll be picking that one up to add to the arsenal! I much prefer working with poplar as it machines easily and takes paint or stain nicely, too. However, when I have clients looking for a more uniform appearance grain wise, I'll use a different species (maple, oak, etc.) and machine the T&G myself. I try to pick a species that is already in the home for consistency. For those clients that don't these details, I find a scarfed joint does a very good job of blending the seam, or I will use the Festool Domino to make it a solid butt joint.
Absolutely looks better controlled ugly I've only used poplar for paint because of the different colors. It's good to see you back at it thanks for sharing
Poplar is a stable wood. Yes it will move. If it's dry when you install and finish it then it will not shrink. So I don't see a problem. 10-15% will always gain water over time. So the width will move 1/64-1/4 for every foot. I know that the material has been on site for about a month and isn't going to move. If you work from the old way's then things move before you install them. If you follow just in time then you spend most of your time fixing what wood does over time, it moves. I finish everything after install. I don't have problem or call backs. Well I guess I do in like two years to fix the guy that did stuff for less than me after I did the first part. And I don't like to tell them that I can't fix it, that it has to be replaced and done right. Then I give them two sample joints. One that I did right and the other one is wood that got put in water and then built. I tell them to put them in the oven at 100f and as after an hour they will look like what they see on their wall. Everything that they see shows up when the wet wood moves and the wood that was at 15% stays.
Yep, T&G edge matched panelling has been used forever. If you had routed the long side edges for T&G with same profile as long edges, it'd be tough to screw up the butt joints.
We always “Celebrate” the seams. We often install square stock at the inside corners and route that end of the board as well. The boys are doing great work!
Thanks for watching!
Amana Tool - MR0100 Carbide Tipped Miniature Rabbet Bit - amzn.to/4edtqnV (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
I agree with you. That gap butt joint looks polished. We use a ton of poplar 1x material in Southern California but it’s always painted when we use it for millwork and cabinetry/built-ins.
Man that is an incredibly smart detail!!!!
Did you consider a chamfer vs a rebate? Doesn't the tongue edge profile (beyond the base of the tongue to the face) have a tapered edge? I think that might also look nice
Hi Spencer,
Poplar is a great wood to work with and finishes great. Wil stain nice and even. Ever considered using quarter sawn poplar to somewhat eliminate the grain issue. Could you get the mill to end match the siding like you just showed and that way if you would have any shrinkage (which is usually nominal on the length) it would be unnoticable. Nice to have you back. 😊😊😊
well Done, an architect i do work for will often say, "if you can't hide a design detail, then celebrate it!"
Really like those routed joints. Great work.
Brilliant solution. You"re lucky - not everyone has such design instincts.
Not really luck, it’s experience. I get what u mean tho!
Can’t wait to see how it turns out once stained, and I too am a fan of seeing the butt joint detail and not trying to hide it
Great move on matching the gap at the butts. I'll have to keep that in the back pocket. We did a massive rough sawn shiplap cathedral ceiling back in the day and pre-stained everything. Pobably 5 gallons of stain. Was almost a huge problem because we didn't box all of the gallons so we had pretty dramatic color variations on the ceiling. The client was an interior designer and didn't really like the pictures but absolutely loved it in person. The color variation really made things pop instead of just a huge single color. Dodged a bullet and learned to appreciate the variation in color rather than assuming a big mass of one color was the only way to go. I would do the exact same to my house if/when i cathedral everything. It looked awesome.
Being a floor layer I love the random boards.. the more random the better for me ..
Beautiful job, Spencer. The butt joint detail really makes the install look great.
Hope your wife is doing well.
Great tips. Love to see back on RUclips.
I have used this detail on a large deck. We called it celebrating the joints. It really can make or break a project, in my opinion. Nice to see you and learn more from you! You were missed.
If you can't hide it, accent it.
Your detail definitely helped great work team!!
Yup, good call. I've done a number of massive ceilings with v-groove pine and kept a cordless router with a chamfer bit handy for a similar effect on the butt joints.
Nice tip on rabbeting the ends. It adds visual interest at the natural conversion to the next board.
The finished product looks good.
I've done that before, if you can't hide it make the gap obvious
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, you are a blessing.
Thanks for the presentation. I think it's beautiful.
That’s a great looking shadow line that I bet would really shine painted ! Hope your family is well Spence in my prayers ! Is there a video in the Queue for “ Flat Crown w/ a shadow line “?
I agree. Butts almost never hide. Problem with oak is it’s not very expensive looking unless you fill the grain. You make me miss the Midwest, especially when you talk about the price of hardwood.
Clean looking job, as always! Funny enough I made a ton of shiplap out of 1/2” ply scrap from my work. I was thinking of what it would look like to have a gap when I butt the ends and this video helped me visualize that! I like the look a lot, but would be curious to see if it would still look as good painted
Looks fantastic. I love working with poplar unfortunately my skill set is only rated for paint grade work.
Hopefully, you can get some video once its stained. Thanks Spencer.
Nice work great detail for the butt joints. Never have been a big fan of stained or unfinished popular but that's not my/your decision, and high end install would look great for any species of wood. Ray
I saw poplar dyed, not stained, back when I was just getting started in the trade. It was an untrained eye, but I remember being impressed as to how well everything blended together. Thanks for the video.
Great detail - I love it.
Fantastic well done
I like the poplar on the walls. It doesn’t read as heavy like white oak and it doesn’t look like flooring material. Will look really good after stained. And don’t get me wrong, I love white oak, my favorite in fact but poplar worked well for this job.
The gap on the butt joint looks fine to me! Kinda like the v groove you can do when joining large ply panels to hide joint lines.
I just recently did this detail with MDF shiplap then was all painted white. Final product looks really good.
Looks class 👌
You'll have some expansion and contraction the nickel gap will help hide that
As a cabinetmaker, I use this technique all the time for field joints.
Great solution! I would love to see the finished product once stained.
I use this detail on paint nickel gap also. Long term good look in my opinion
Bidenomics that’s quarter gap isn’t it! ?
Thanks. Glad you're back.
Amazing as always. Thank you
if you cant hide it ,highlight it
I agree it looks way better!
Spencer can you share your thoughts on the festool kapex with the extension wings?
Work from my garage and have to out everything away when finished. Haven’t found a great solution and mostly use a tracksaw for everything, but very time consuming that way for repeatable cuts
I used to have the UG setup. It’s fantastic. Especially for a fast and compact solution. I used to love it for punch list jobs.
Thank god your back!!
I have notice in your installs, you have use a lot of poplar for staining. do you have any pictures or videos of the finished stained poplar? I have only painted poplar.
I will try to post some videos of this all stained up. It looks great.
I love nickel back
great catch Spenser!
Isn't that joint still going to open up as the wood shrinks because it's still a butt joint, just with a reveal?
Wood moves very minimally at its length. The movement happens across the width.
Looks great.
Do you still recommend your cordless Dewalt biscuit joiner?
Yes. It’s great.
I'm paying a little under $4 a bf for poplar here. Just bought some white oak and it's $9-12+ a bf. Thats wholesale price in my area. We trim a lot in alder here.
👏👏👏👏👏
Fantastic detail. I've done this before but I used a standard adjustable rabbeting bit. That small offset bit is really cool and I'll be picking that one up to add to the arsenal! I much prefer working with poplar as it machines easily and takes paint or stain nicely, too. However, when I have clients looking for a more uniform appearance grain wise, I'll use a different species (maple, oak, etc.) and machine the T&G myself. I try to pick a species that is already in the home for consistency.
For those clients that don't these details, I find a scarfed joint does a very good job of blending the seam, or I will use the Festool Domino to make it a solid butt joint.
Absolutely looks better controlled ugly I've only used poplar for paint because of the different colors. It's good to see you back at it thanks for sharing
Poplar is a stable wood. Yes it will move. If it's dry when you install and finish it then it will not shrink. So I don't see a problem. 10-15% will always gain water over time. So the width will move 1/64-1/4 for every foot. I know that the material has been on site for about a month and isn't going to move. If you work from the old way's then things move before you install them. If you follow just in time then you spend most of your time fixing what wood does over time, it moves.
I finish everything after install. I don't have problem or call backs. Well I guess I do in like two years to fix the guy that did stuff for less than me after I did the first part. And I don't like to tell them that I can't fix it, that it has to be replaced and done right. Then I give them two sample joints. One that I did right and the other one is wood that got put in water and then built. I tell them to put them in the oven at 100f and as after an hour they will look like what they see on their wall. Everything that they see shows up when the wet wood moves and the wood that was at 15% stays.
Good to see you back.
I had the same problem with pine and had a dedicated bit made that cuts a groove and micro bevels the edge.
Yep, T&G edge matched panelling has been used forever. If you had routed the long side edges for T&G with same profile as long edges, it'd be tough to screw up the butt joints.
Spencer would the price difference between poplar and clear cedar made a difference to the prime contractor and owner?
0.38 The stone mason was escorted off the job?... Yes?
Are you only routeing one edge of the butt joint or both ends?
Nice detail
Looks good, much better than trying to hide it. Do you route the end of both boards or just one?
Just one side.
We always “Celebrate” the seams. We often install square stock at the inside corners and route that end of the board as well.
The boys are doing great work!