+John Williams Indeed, despite having the choice to keep either the 241 or 261 as a limbing saw, the 261 was sold. The 261 was a fantastic saw, superior on all accounts as a one saw plan, but at almost 2 lbs lighter, what I lose in speed with the 241 (negligible under 10") I gain 10 fold in ease of use. With my 241/362 combo to do 5-10 cords a year, I'm smiling ear to ear.
I would have kept the 261, and replaced the 241 for a 2hp cordless saw that does limbing better simply because it's a true light saw, at almost HALF the weight of 241. Husqvarna T540Li comes to mind.
I just picked up my 2nd 261, i kept stealing my ground guys saw while i was in the bucket and needing a larger saw then my 193t. Absolutely love the thing, power to weight ratio is phenomenal.
I just ordered a ms 261 without m-tronics, the distributor in my area had 30 of them, the distributor told my local dealer they weren't to happy giving me one, they are really wanting to push the m-tronic ones ??????
I'm a forestry student at the end of my first year. Now finishing and going into my second, I'm thinking of getting my own chainsaw this summer and going for the 241. At only half a second slower average, seems like a good idea, but I think I'd get the 16" bar. It also seemed to have a nicer sound than the 362, being quite similar to the 261, which is kinda superficial but means the saw is more tolerable for longer. I also note that the power to weight ratio of a 241 is better than the 261 so if you are cool with the slightly reduced power, you can technically get more done before its weight gets to you.
It definitely can handle a 16" bar, but I once I am into stuff that big I switch to the 362. It could even handle an 18" bar if it were your only saw and you needed it to, especially with the MM. A few notes: (1) The 241 did not keep pace with the 241 once the 362 was MM'd (see other video), (2) the stock 241 is actually not as good a ratio - 3.19 lbs per hp for the 241 vs 2.95 lbs per hp for the 261 (you want lower), (3)the revamped 261 is already in Europe and will be here eventually - I believe it has an even better 2.7 lbs per hp. That will be the new king when it arrives, and if you can wait for it you will be glad you did. Though the 241 is a dream, the new 261 is less than a lb heavier (0.9) and nearly a whole hp more power (0.9). Adding a 1:1 ratio of weight to power on a saw is an easy yes please.
There are websites that sell 362s new at the price of 261s, so I'll look into that. Yeah I'm not sure where I got the "better weight to power ratio" from. Just mistaken. I'm from the UK and the Stihl website uses kg and doesn't give a lb to bhp ratio but kg to kW, so had to a bit of converting! But yes, 2.9 lbs to the hp, whilst the 362 is 2.6. My friend got a new 261 which I was given the honour of breaking in, so to say, and it was very nice to handle. You mentioned the additional 1:1 lb to hp as a good deal, well I guess since the 362 has an extra hp to less than 1 lb, that's got to be good. But where do you stop? There's got to be a point where a heavy chainsaw only comes in for occasional use before an 8 hr day becomes hard labour, right? Or do you just get used to it?
For me, it is about application. I use the 241 to limb, and for that my goal is as much power as possible while still being light and nimble. The 241 is perfect for that. But for a little more power, the jump from 9.9 lbs to 10.8 lbs (the new 261), that's reasonable, as compared say to 9.9 to 12.8 lbs for the 362. 3 lbs is a real noticeable difference for limbing, while not helping me limb faster. In the opposite direction, I have a MS 170, which is even lighter, but it really lags for logs >5". So the question is, how big a diameter log do you want to be able to cut without loss of time compared to a bigger saw? The 170 is too slow for me in 5"-10" range, but the 241 powers through it. The 241 handles fine above that, even burying the 14" bar, but I think the new 261 would push that upper limit of what you can limb quickly while still being a petite saw. Keep in mind too, as the saw gets bigger, the weight in oil, gas and the longer bar make the weight that much more. As a homeowner, the 241 is more than I need for this. But if you are going into professional forestry, go for the new 261 as a limbing saw.
In my position, it's not feasible to have two different saws for felling and limbing, though I assume that's what you're suggesting here. Would you recommend the 261 as an all rounder for felling and limbing? I am still currently doing small fell, ie 15" trees, rarely much bigger, so you can imagine the size of branches are not going to be excessive.
I have both a MS261 CM and Husky 562 XP and I almost always grab the 261 as a first choice. If I cutting a lot of big hard wood, the 562 is the winner hands down, but overall, the weight to power is really good on the 261. My only bitch is that it's a gas hog.
I had to replace the oiler pump on my little used 241. It was not covered by warranty as I was told its a wearing part. So their 2 year warranty is in name only. It will be the last stihl saw I will purchase
New "1.1" version 241 C-M is 200 grams lighter and 0,1 kW more powerful. New "1.1" 261 C-M is 300 grams lighter and 0,1 kW more powerful. The 251 was 500 grams heavier and is now "only" 400 grams heavier as they both have been on diet, only 261 lost 100 grams more. new 241 is 2kg/kW whereas the new 261 is 1,6 kg/kW...so there is a remarkable difference. I think it comes down to how much (if any) slower will you be in limbing at the end of the day with a 400 grams (nearly a pound) heavier (albeit more powerful) saw. Do you get tired? Do you need the power?
If you are trying to save money and can spare a few milliseconds, then you should consider the worthy 211. Around half the price and can pull the same bar, just a little slower.
@@PoolandBilliards So if it sounds like it’s bumbling, perfect example is going back and listening to the audio of the video, that’s it. Saws should have the same throttle response, be banging against the stutter box. Usually four stroking means the carburetor is not tuned correctly.
anyone else have issues with m-tronic saws not idling after warming up? The dealer replaced the carb and fuel filter on my MS 362 c-m. He said to idle the saw for 5-10 seconds so it can save the idle adjustments. Seeing how this guy shuts the saw down immediately, made me wonder if others had the same problem as me. the saw has been running great since and I have been idling like he said.
John Kessler It is really hard on a saw to just shut it off immediately after running hard through a cut and it is just as bad to run it hard without some warming up. Your problem has many possibilities but one thing about a two stroke running at 10,000 rpm in a cut is that if you just release the trigger it will definitely pull in too much fuel and often die. Most people after running fast bring the revs down a little gradually or give a little blip of the throttle as it slows down. If that isn’t your problem and it won’t idle at all, try cleaning your air filter then starting with the cold start switch up. Then wait a few seconds for it to warm a little before blipping the throttle. Then let it idle for a minute. At that point try the saw and see how it runs. Don’t be afraid to let it idle a little to warm up.
M tronic carb saws have to be started a certain way if you notice on new saws put them down on choke and start them it will run on like a slugish idle for 40 seconds if u don't do that with the mtrons it's throws there computer off and has to be reprogrammed my ground guys are allways fucking them up but as long as you let it idle on choke for that bit before you go romping on the throttle ur good
Hey man, i am from germany and i have got a 261 and a 361. How can i do a muffler mod on this? I really dont know what that is and how to do that. Because i want to get more power on my 261
T. L. I sold all these saws and bought the newer version of the 261 and outfitted it with 3/8 picco. I will never sell it. Next I will buy the 462 as soon as it is available.
The 261. I think that is the best all around saw that can do pretty much everything any normal user would ever need. That or a Husqvarna 562xp but I prefer Stihl.
a stock 362 doesnt sound like its had the squish tightened. timing changed. port angles change and muffler modded. they sound nothing like that one stock so what was really done to it
I bought it used off ebay with clearly few hours on it based on the clean original sticker and the lack of wear on the machine in general. In this video the saw is as is, untouched by me and I assume untouched by the original owner. After this video, I performed a muffler mod, with the performance difference seen in other videos. To the best of my knowledge from the original owner and my own honesty, it's stock.
I KNOW it was not muffler modded in this video. That's a simple fact. However, I only assume it was not ported. I don't know of anyone (speaking of the original owner) who ports a saw but doesn't touch the muffler. Of course, they could have just put a stock muffler back on before they sold it to me. But I think I would have noticed it being ported when I did the muffler mod. Still, a ported saw 362 with mtronic should leave the 261 and 241 in the dust, even without a MM. The only thing I could think of that is not stock in this video is the felling spike on it. I didn't like it so I later filled it down a bit.
I just picked up a little MS250 and did the muffler mod and timing advance. I cut right with my friends stock 362. Of course if I modded the 362 and put a short bar on it I know it would out cut my 250 however that's not how the 362 came. The object IMO is that a person can make a 10 lb chainsaw with a little mod work cut with the 14 lb chainsaw. I sure like toting around the 10 lb one 😁
Did you use the narrow 0.50 Stihl PS3 (PICCO Super) chain? I think the chain will be able to handle the power and torque of 241 just fine without snapping...not so with more powerful saws. It is supposedly "the perfect chain" for 241.
Man thats good for the 241. im thinking too buy a 341 or a husqvarna 543. i got a mutch better price on the 543. so im lining that way. thanks for the video 👍👍
+Joar Flesjå Spec wise they are really close, but I don't think the 543 is autotune - if it is not that much extra I'd pay to get an auto carb, which in this class I think is only the 241. Makes performance after a muffler mod a sure thing. If the 543 is auto, then most certainly take the better price of the 2.
+Joar Flesjå Sure did. It will adjust over time on it's own for optimum performance, with no concern for overheating it or running it lean. However, the manual has a short procedure (idling from startup without pressing trigger for 90 secs, shut of, start up again, then 5 full length cuts) to reset the saw to the new conditions. The m-tronic is even adjusts for up to 25% ethanol - not that I'd put it in it, but it means there's no need to by the expensive pre mix. It runs perfectly on 93 grade pump gas with good oil.
In norwegan we have 95 grade. It sounds like its the same as the 550 and 550xp. The 543 was not auto. I have the same 362 and a 193t. So what i ned i a smal power full saw when i cut smal trees on the power lines. So im thinking 241. 😁
You've brought a knife to a ... this ain't a brand battle. The point was to compare how muffler modded saws compare to saws of higher cc levels, not to compare brands. In fact, by using all Stihl pro saws, I've accomplished this better than mixing brands. This concept should apply to your Dolmars too. Muffler modding your brand saw will likely boost it to the performance of the cc higher, be it Dolmar, Husky, or whoever else is offended I didn't use their brand. Feel free to attach the link to the video you make to feature your brand's saws in this analysis.
I'm partial to saws that don't need putzing around with to output their rated power, and show up very well relative to their S. German cousins. At much more reasonable price-points to boot. Low noise is GOOD. You could say I was bringing a gun to a knife-fight then.
Jacques Blaque whats a dolmar? Why buy a saw with no dealers? I'd rarher spend a bit more time cutting and not days travelling to find a dolmar dealer. It's like trying to find an honest politician, you know they exist but fuck knows where...
There are so many variables at play between saws in these cut tests that they border on pointless. Bar, chain, operator technique, chain grind, taker depth, sharpness, tune, filter. Waste of time
Stihl MS 261 CM is the best do-all all-around chainsaw to own right now. Light and powerful enough for all basic work.
I'd second this thought
Thats what sold me on the 261 over the 362. Its a shame that the 241cm is no longer being sold.
Agreed that’s why I own one
I love my 241 , so small and light and rips through ironbark with ease .
+John Williams Indeed, despite having the choice to keep either the 241 or 261 as a limbing saw, the 261 was sold. The 261 was a fantastic saw, superior on all accounts as a one saw plan, but at almost 2 lbs lighter, what I lose in speed with the 241 (negligible under 10") I gain 10 fold in ease of use. With my 241/362 combo to do 5-10 cords a year, I'm smiling ear to ear.
I would have kept the 261, and replaced the 241 for a 2hp cordless saw that does limbing better simply because it's a true light saw, at almost HALF the weight of 241. Husqvarna T540Li comes to mind.
This video is what made me want a 241 and now I have one!!🎉
Yeah a fantastic saw I hope you are glad with your decision.
I want one to run on days that my 261 is just a little too much. I have a 201 top handle to run as well though so I want to see how they each compare.
Nice comparison, I'll take the MS261 all day long.
AMEN!
Nice video! For what I cut, mostly like the last part of the video i just got me a 241.
Great choice! Probably never need another saw.
I just picked up my 2nd 261, i kept stealing my ground guys saw while i was in the bucket and needing a larger saw then my 193t. Absolutely love the thing, power to weight ratio is phenomenal.
I just ordered a ms 261 without m-tronics, the distributor in my area had 30 of them, the distributor told my local dealer they weren't to happy giving me one, they are really wanting to push the m-tronic ones ??????
I am a dealer as well it's Stihl wanting more repairs with m tronic avoid 500i first gens calibration is BS 78 pages or redundancy bs
Anyone who says a 261 is better than a 241 has never handled a 241. Change my mind.
you might wanna consider letting your saw come back to idle before snapping that chain brake on...
I never considered that. You ever had it damage a saw?
+mr silly snapped crank on a 346xp
+mr silly and a ms361
It can loosen the flywheel nut and clutch if done often.
They both self tighten when pulling. Sudden stops place the inertia in a loosening direction.
ryan davis why
I'm a forestry student at the end of my first year. Now finishing and going into my second, I'm thinking of getting my own chainsaw this summer and going for the 241. At only half a second slower average, seems like a good idea, but I think I'd get the 16" bar. It also seemed to have a nicer sound than the 362, being quite similar to the 261, which is kinda superficial but means the saw is more tolerable for longer. I also note that the power to weight ratio of a 241 is better than the 261 so if you are cool with the slightly reduced power, you can technically get more done before its weight gets to you.
It definitely can handle a 16" bar, but I once I am into stuff that big I switch to the 362. It could even handle an 18" bar if it were your only saw and you needed it to, especially with the MM. A few notes: (1) The 241 did not keep pace with the 241 once the 362 was MM'd (see other video), (2) the stock 241 is actually not as good a ratio - 3.19 lbs per hp for the 241 vs 2.95 lbs per hp for the 261 (you want lower), (3)the revamped 261 is already in Europe and will be here eventually - I believe it has an even better 2.7 lbs per hp. That will be the new king when it arrives, and if you can wait for it you will be glad you did. Though the 241 is a dream, the new 261 is less than a lb heavier (0.9) and nearly a whole hp more power (0.9). Adding a 1:1 ratio of weight to power on a saw is an easy yes please.
There are websites that sell 362s new at the price of 261s, so I'll look into that. Yeah I'm not sure where I got the "better weight to power ratio" from. Just mistaken.
I'm from the UK and the Stihl website uses kg and doesn't give a lb to bhp ratio but kg to kW, so had to a bit of converting! But yes, 2.9 lbs to the hp, whilst the 362 is 2.6.
My friend got a new 261 which I was given the honour of breaking in, so to say, and it was very nice to handle.
You mentioned the additional 1:1 lb to hp as a good deal, well I guess since the 362 has an extra hp to less than 1 lb, that's got to be good. But where do you stop? There's got to be a point where a heavy chainsaw only comes in for occasional use before an 8 hr day becomes hard labour, right? Or do you just get used to it?
I just wish there were opportunities to try the different models, but that's virtually impossible.
For me, it is about application. I use the 241 to limb, and for that my goal is as much power as possible while still being light and nimble. The 241 is perfect for that. But for a little more power, the jump from 9.9 lbs to 10.8 lbs (the new 261), that's reasonable, as compared say to 9.9 to 12.8 lbs for the 362. 3 lbs is a real noticeable difference for limbing, while not helping me limb faster. In the opposite direction, I have a MS 170, which is even lighter, but it really lags for logs >5". So the question is, how big a diameter log do you want to be able to cut without loss of time compared to a bigger saw? The 170 is too slow for me in 5"-10" range, but the 241 powers through it. The 241 handles fine above that, even burying the 14" bar, but I think the new 261 would push that upper limit of what you can limb quickly while still being a petite saw. Keep in mind too, as the saw gets bigger, the weight in oil, gas and the longer bar make the weight that much more. As a homeowner, the 241 is more than I need for this. But if you are going into professional forestry, go for the new 261 as a limbing saw.
In my position, it's not feasible to have two different saws for felling and limbing, though I assume that's what you're suggesting here. Would you recommend the 261 as an all rounder for felling and limbing? I am still currently doing small fell, ie 15" trees, rarely much bigger, so you can imagine the size of branches are not going to be excessive.
It cuts fast enough better than hand saw.
I started with an 291 as an all-rounder. But I will get an 462 and an 241 for any purpose..
I've had a 241 for a few years and will be picking up a 462 in a few days. Seems like a good pairing.
If you factor in fuel use and if you do a lot of limbing, chances are you are better off with 241...
If one is limbing a lot they probably running a 201t.
So far in my opinion , the ms 362 was the fastest out of both the other chainsaws
I have both a MS261 CM and Husky 562 XP and I almost always grab the 261 as a first choice. If I cutting a lot of big hard wood, the 562 is the winner hands down, but overall, the weight to power is really good on the 261. My only bitch is that it's a gas hog.
Isnt the 562 a 60cc? Should be able to cut more than a smaller saw lol
All chainsaws are "gas hogs", unless all you're cutting are twigs.
I had to replace the oiler pump on my little used 241.
It was not covered by warranty as I was told its a wearing part.
So their 2 year warranty is in name only.
It will be the last stihl saw I will purchase
New "1.1" version 241 C-M is 200 grams lighter and 0,1 kW more powerful. New "1.1" 261 C-M is 300 grams lighter and 0,1 kW more powerful. The 251 was 500 grams heavier and is now "only" 400 grams heavier as they both have been on diet, only 261 lost 100 grams more. new 241 is 2kg/kW whereas the new 261 is 1,6 kg/kW...so there is a remarkable difference. I think it comes down to how much (if any) slower will you be in limbing at the end of the day with a 400 grams (nearly a pound) heavier (albeit more powerful) saw. Do you get tired? Do you need the power?
phew saved a lot of money buying 241 cos I don't care about milliseconds too much.
If you are trying to save money and can spare a few milliseconds, then you should consider the worthy 211. Around half the price and can pull the same bar, just a little slower.
@@PoolandBilliards I love how M-tronic system works on my trimmer and wanted the same on a chainsaw. Hence why I went for a forestry version.
Was 261 running .325 sprocket or 3/8’s?
3/8. Pulls it fine and is compatible with the bigger saws - I sold the 362 and bought a 462.
Comprata da poco una vera bomba a orologio 💪💪👍
How much slower would a regular non modified 261 be compared to modified 261?
Is this recorded in high speed and playback in normal speed ?
362 had a warm engine, 261 was cold, and four stroking even when you started your cut, 241 was cold start.
Maybe they were, I don't remember. It was quite a while ago. What do you suggest this means in terms of the head-to-head performance?
@@PoolandBilliards So if it sounds like it’s bumbling, perfect example is going back and listening to the audio of the video, that’s it. Saws should have the same throttle response, be banging against the stutter box. Usually four stroking means the carburetor is not tuned correctly.
Did the 362 have a 20" bar?
Hadir menyimak bosku.salam silaturohmi semoga tambah maju chanelnya
how much is the difference in weight between ms 241 and ms 261?
2 livre entre la 241c pleine en carburant et la 261 artic, pleine en carbuant
The two larger saws were cutting slightly crooked but the 241 was cutting straight. Id say re-do this video with all saws cutting with sharp chains
On small cuts, 261 wasn’t warm until last 2, out of 4 cuts
anyone else have issues with m-tronic saws not idling after warming up? The dealer replaced the carb and fuel filter on my MS 362 c-m. He said to idle the saw for 5-10 seconds so it can save the idle adjustments. Seeing how this guy shuts the saw down immediately, made me wonder if others had the same problem as me. the saw has been running great since and I have been idling like he said.
John Kessler It is really hard on a saw to just shut it off immediately after running hard through a cut and it is just as bad to run it hard without some warming up. Your problem has many possibilities but one thing about a two stroke running at 10,000 rpm in a cut is that if you just release the trigger it will definitely pull in too much fuel and often die. Most people after running fast bring the revs down a little gradually or give a little blip of the throttle as it slows down. If that isn’t your problem and it won’t idle at all, try cleaning your air filter then starting with the cold start switch up. Then wait a few seconds for it to warm a little before blipping the throttle. Then let it idle for a minute. At that point try the saw and see how it runs. Don’t be afraid to let it idle a little to warm up.
M tronic carb saws have to be started a certain way if you notice on new saws put them down on choke and start them it will run on like a slugish idle for 40 seconds if u don't do that with the mtrons it's throws there computer off and has to be reprogrammed my ground guys are allways fucking them up but as long as you let it idle on choke for that bit before you go romping on the throttle ur good
Whasting good firewood...are,do you have such a tiny woodstove?🤔🤔
He obviously has a pot belly stove.
Hey man, i am from germany and i have got a 261 and a 361. How can i do a muffler mod on this? I really dont know what that is and how to do that. Because i want to get more power on my 261
do something like this:
ruclips.net/video/UOpeHFB1tO0/видео.html
Moonshiner E39528i was
Witch saw would you take If you could only pick one?
T. L. I sold all these saws and bought the newer version of the 261 and outfitted it with 3/8 picco. I will never sell it. Next I will buy the 462 as soon as it is available.
The 261. I think that is the best all around saw that can do pretty much everything any normal user would ever need. That or a Husqvarna 562xp but I prefer Stihl.
261 all day
261 but 20" isn't available as an option here from stihl like what's run in the video, 18 is max recommended
a stock 362 doesnt sound like its had the squish tightened. timing changed. port angles change and muffler modded. they sound nothing like that one stock so what was really done to it
I bought it used off ebay with clearly few hours on it based on the clean original sticker and the lack of wear on the machine in general. In this video the saw is as is, untouched by me and I assume untouched by the original owner. After this video, I performed a muffler mod, with the performance difference seen in other videos. To the best of my knowledge from the original owner and my own honesty, it's stock.
+mr silly its not stock. it clearly has the sound of a ported saw
I KNOW it was not muffler modded in this video. That's a simple fact. However, I only assume it was not ported. I don't know of anyone (speaking of the original owner) who ports a saw but doesn't touch the muffler. Of course, they could have just put a stock muffler back on before they sold it to me. But I think I would have noticed it being ported when I did the muffler mod. Still, a ported saw 362 with mtronic should leave the 261 and 241 in the dust, even without a MM. The only thing I could think of that is not stock in this video is the felling spike on it. I didn't like it so I later filled it down a bit.
Stick it in a big tree with a 20 or 24/25 bar and you'll see why the 362 is superior
261 is the best. Done. Finito. Klaar. Ende.
HQ 560 is 100x better. Done. Finito. Klaar. Ende. :-)
I just picked up a little MS250 and did the muffler mod and timing advance. I cut right with my friends stock 362. Of course if I modded the 362 and put a short bar on it I know it would out cut my 250 however that's not how the 362 came. The object IMO is that a person can make a 10 lb chainsaw with a little mod work cut with the 14 lb chainsaw. I sure like toting around the 10 lb one 😁
Did you use the narrow 0.50 Stihl PS3 (PICCO Super) chain? I think the chain will be able to handle the power and torque of 241 just fine without snapping...not so with more powerful saws. It is supposedly "the perfect chain" for 241.
Yes I do and yes it is. It might be the key to why it runs so well.
Man thats good for the 241. im thinking too buy a 341 or a husqvarna 543. i got a mutch better price on the 543. so im lining that way. thanks for the video 👍👍
+Joar Flesjå Spec wise they are really close, but I don't think the 543 is autotune - if it is not that much extra I'd pay to get an auto carb, which in this class I think is only the 241. Makes performance after a muffler mod a sure thing. If the 543 is auto, then most certainly take the better price of the 2.
Thanks. So you made a muffler mod an then it tuned it self?
+Joar Flesjå Sure did. It will adjust over time on it's own for optimum performance, with no concern for overheating it or running it lean. However, the manual has a short procedure (idling from startup without pressing trigger for 90 secs, shut of, start up again, then 5 full length cuts) to reset the saw to the new conditions. The m-tronic is even adjusts for up to 25% ethanol - not that I'd put it in it, but it means there's no need to by the expensive pre mix. It runs perfectly on 93 grade pump gas with good oil.
In norwegan we have 95 grade.
It sounds like its the same as the 550 and 550xp. The 543 was not auto. I have the same 362 and a 193t. So what i ned i a smal power full saw when i cut smal trees on the power lines. So im thinking 241. 😁
duh your getting a better price on the 543... Its a husky, you get what you pay for..... buy stihl
261 better than the 362?
For the weight, yup. 361 is too big to be a small saw and to small to be a big saw. 261 is the best small pro saw imo
*362
@@PoolandBilliards thank you!
@@PoolandBilliards Sooo... It's a "Medium Saw"? 🤔
my 241 came with a .325 chain
What size bar? Mine is a 3/8 16" from the 201tc
40cm
я тоже поменял шину и цепь родная цепь часто рвалась
Cuando llegarán a Chile la sthil 362
6 or 7 Pin on the 241?
+Peter Funk It's a 6 pin.
Waste of time here, not testing vs Dolmar 6100 and 421. And ... in the real world, cost is a big factor. Really, it's not all creamsicles, at all.
You've brought a knife to a ... this ain't a brand battle. The point was to compare how muffler modded saws compare to saws of higher cc levels, not to compare brands. In fact, by using all Stihl pro saws, I've accomplished this better than mixing brands. This concept should apply to your Dolmars too. Muffler modding your brand saw will likely boost it to the performance of the cc higher, be it Dolmar, Husky, or whoever else is offended I didn't use their brand. Feel free to attach the link to the video you make to feature your brand's saws in this analysis.
I'm partial to saws that don't need putzing around with to output their rated power, and show up very well relative to their S. German cousins. At much more reasonable price-points to boot. Low noise is GOOD. You could say I was bringing a gun to a knife-fight then.
Jacques Blaque whats a dolmar?
Why buy a saw with no dealers?
I'd rarher spend a bit more time cutting and not days travelling to find a dolmar dealer. It's like trying to find an honest politician, you know they exist but fuck knows where...
Blirp saw before cut don't wind out ur scoring cylinder
nice chainsaw
Get 462. Them babies are mean
362 dont bog thats difference in 10ccs
Top ..
There are so many variables at play between saws in these cut tests that they border on pointless.
Bar, chain, operator technique, chain grind, taker depth, sharpness, tune, filter.
Waste of time
Anyone that uses saws daily can see and hear most of the things you listed without thinking about it, so maybe your post was pointless?
Мс261см мошна пила
Leave out the noisy muffler mod BS !
You need ear protection either way. It's not much, but worth the power
NON TAGLIAAA
non taglianooooo devi affilare meglio
Vero