Get it hot then cool it down immediately, this will loosen it, the expansion from heat and cooling loosens it. Only use the ratchet once it's cooled. Other wise it will damage threads..
I have done the same, but sometimes you have to break the chemical bond i.e. rust and corrosion. That's where heat or sometimes WD-40 or PB Blaster and the likes come into play. Thanks for the helpful comment. -Will
Cheap mechanic's cutting gas for a cutting and heating torch is Propane and Oxygen Propane and is much cheaper and easier to find than Acetylene. Make sure you get a propane tip for tour Cutting torch for a better use of the Propane if you like the idea.
meanwhile you're blowing fire right at the floor pan melting the carpet in the truck next time use your torch in a different manner where you're blowing fire directly on the top of the bolt that way you minimize collateral damage with all of that flame which was way too big to begin with
What if you don't have heat. I have sprayed wd40 on the nuts of mine. I'm trying to free up the 2 screws connecting the bottom part of my catalytic converter. They won't budge. I sent for an impact wrench. Will that help. I have a 2014 chevy impala lt
It just might work. Try loosening and if that doesn’t work, as weird as it sounds try tightening them with the impact and then loosening them again. I have another video called removing seized rusted screws. you should check it out. He is best if you can find it when it comes to anything exhaust. Have you ever tried a product called PB blaster? Good luck! -Will
You keep saying we got the bolts out but you didn't. you remove the nuts from the pressed in studs and you didn't ever mention how you fixed the stud that you broke off with the impact. Also those are not the right fasteners. There should be a bolt stud with a smooth collar and a nut with a spring on the bolt. I have the same vehicle and I'm dealing with a broken stud that's impossible to get out. Because they're pressed in on the one side of the exhaust they have no head and so they can't just be screwed out and as you mentioned and notice there's not enough between your room for a hammer
You are correct. We stand corrected. We removed the nuts from the pressed in studs. You are also correct in that we did not cover how we fixed the stud we broke off with the impact. We were fortunate on that one side we were able to cut the head of with the grinder and we replaced it with a grade 8 nut and bolt. We do mention that we did not want to replace the other side as its design was making it difficult to do so. So we just chased it with a threading die. Good luck! -Will
@@Debtfreehomesteaders threading the hole is a good idea and one i hadnt thought about! i did cut the head off of my seized bolt but it still wouldnt come out. i am gonna have to find an air hammer or something to remove it..
Damn... this is such a bad technique. First use a proper breaker bar and a six point non-deep 1/2" drive socket. Then add some heat and spray with penetrating lube. Wait a few hours and then try the bolt. If it still doesn't go reheat then add penetrating lube and try immediately after while it is still hot. If still won't go put on a cheater bar (risk snapping the stud at this point) and hope it goes. This guy looks like he is about to seriously bust a knuckle and that socket was about to snap in the first part of the video.
I've watched a few of these videos and the number one thing that comes to mind is why the fuck do automakers put these on and damn near impossible to get off!?
Hot, cold, hot, cold, water, salt, and rust makes an unforgiving fastener. I just wish they would be installed in a more thought out location sometimes too. Thanks for watching.
I haven't gotten in so much trouble for using a ratchet in the comments! Shame on me. I'll do better next time. I agree that is a lot of stress to be putting on the ratchet. Thanks for watching! -Will
Unskilled enthusiasts with access to equipment which requires year's of experience to use safely are destined for 'a bad day at work' type of incident.
Get it hot then cool it down immediately, this will loosen it, the expansion from heat and cooling loosens it. Only use the ratchet once it's cooled. Other wise it will damage threads..
I never thought of that but I believe your on to something. Great tip!
-Will
This is the funniest thing I have seen all day. 😂
we are lucky that we didn’t like the bottom of the truck on fire. Thanks for watching.
-Will
I always use a large breaker bar or the top pipe from my floor jack on the ratchet handle,,, helps.
I have done the same, but sometimes you have to break the chemical bond i.e. rust and corrosion. That's where heat or sometimes WD-40 or PB Blaster and the likes come into play.
Thanks for the helpful comment.
-Will
Nothing like the smell of a nice and toasty carpet
I'm not sure how we didn't char the carpet. We got the bolt off though. Thanks for watching.
-Will
if you just try to brute force it with a long handle extension, etc. likely end up just twisting the stud in two.
Cheap mechanic's cutting gas for a cutting and heating torch is Propane and Oxygen Propane and is much cheaper and easier to find than Acetylene. Make sure you get a propane tip for tour Cutting torch for a better use of the Propane if you like the idea.
Not a bad idea. Thanks for the info.
-Will
Some thermal protection will keep the vehicle from catching fire for sure. Or something smaller than a rosebud.
I agree. We were in a tight space. But we did learn from the experience for the next time. Great suggestion. Thanks for watching!
-Will
I have the same gasket that needs to be replaced on a 99 suburban. My old gasket is gone so I'm going to see if I can hack saw the bolts out.......
Good luck. Exhaust bolts are just mean and nasty!
-Will
meanwhile you're blowing fire right at the floor pan melting the carpet in the truck next time use your torch in a different manner where you're blowing fire directly on the top of the bolt that way you minimize collateral damage with all of that flame which was way too big to begin with
I agree better control. Thanks for watching!
-Will
Erased
@@blakewilliams2593 what's erased?
@@nickbrockelman probably the carpet
What if you don't have heat. I have sprayed wd40 on the nuts of mine. I'm trying to free up the 2 screws connecting the bottom part of my catalytic converter. They won't budge. I sent for an impact wrench. Will that help. I have a 2014 chevy impala lt
It just might work. Try loosening and if that doesn’t work, as weird as it sounds try tightening them with the impact and then loosening them again. I have another video called removing seized rusted screws. you should check it out. He is best if you can find it when it comes to anything exhaust. Have you ever tried a product called PB blaster? Good luck!
-Will
Stop using wd40 on rust
You keep saying we got the bolts out but you didn't. you remove the nuts from the pressed in studs and you didn't ever mention how you fixed the stud that you broke off with the impact. Also those are not the right fasteners. There should be a bolt stud with a smooth collar and a nut with a spring on the bolt. I have the same vehicle and I'm dealing with a broken stud that's impossible to get out. Because they're pressed in on the one side of the exhaust they have no head and so they can't just be screwed out and as you mentioned and notice there's not enough between your room for a hammer
You are correct. We stand corrected. We removed the nuts from the pressed in studs. You are also correct in that we did not cover how we fixed the stud we broke off with the impact. We were fortunate on that one side we were able to cut the head of with the grinder and we replaced it with a grade 8 nut and bolt. We do mention that we did not want to replace the other side as its design was making it difficult to do so. So we just chased it with a threading die. Good luck!
-Will
@@Debtfreehomesteaders threading the hole is a good idea and one i hadnt thought about! i did cut the head off of my seized bolt but it still wouldnt come out. i am gonna have to find an air hammer or something to remove it..
It shows how much heat is needed to remove this problem nuts and bolts.
Exhaust bolts are nasty! Be careful and thanks for watching!
-Will
The tip of the flame is the hottest part.. don't ask me how I know. It won't get nearly as hot holding it that close to the bolt
Damn... this is such a bad technique. First use a proper breaker bar and a six point non-deep 1/2" drive socket. Then add some heat and spray with penetrating lube. Wait a few hours and then try the bolt. If it still doesn't go reheat then add penetrating lube and try immediately after while it is still hot. If still won't go put on a cheater bar (risk snapping the stud at this point) and hope it goes. This guy looks like he is about to seriously bust a knuckle and that socket was about to snap in the first part of the video.
Breaker bar for sure next time!
Thanks for watching.
-Will
When I’m doing, fire will work
Put some long steel piping over the ratchet handle to make a breaker bar.
If there is a next time that is definitely what I will do. Thanks for watching!
-Will
I've watched a few of these videos and the number one thing that comes to mind is why the fuck do automakers put these on and damn near impossible to get off!?
Hot, cold, hot, cold, water, salt, and rust makes an unforgiving fastener. I just wish they would be installed in a more thought out location sometimes too. Thanks for watching.
I'd use a ring spanner not a ratchet
I haven't gotten in so much trouble for using a ratchet in the comments! Shame on me. I'll do better next time. I agree that is a lot of stress to be putting on the ratchet. Thanks for watching!
-Will
"Nothing to it but to do it..."
Step 1 is always the hardest. Thanks for watching!
-Will
You needed a pipe extension /breaker bar to make the wrench longer.
YES!
dont use acetylene torch again without reading flame adjustment..
geez you need a longer wrench. more leverage
I like big wrenches...
-Will
Man u got any idea for me . I got heat but didn't work
PB Blaster.??
-Will
@@Debtfreehomesteaders i was use anything but didn't work . Look like heavy rust
Heat to orange and immediately quench x3
use 1/2 inch driver will give you more toques
Wheres my 1 inch drive, lol?
-Will
You need extractor sockets
Should've squirted a little oil on the nut/bolt once you got it red hot. Almost guarantee it would've come right off
Hello love this vid 😍
Thank you so much! You are a long time subscriber of mine. Thanks for your ongoing support!
-Will
the ones on mine are so rusted they look like rivets
Wow.
I don't know about that one. Can you drill or grind them off?
-Will
felt like a last resort but it may be what i have to do!
Unskilled enthusiasts with access to equipment which requires year's of experience to use safely are destined for 'a bad day at work' type of incident.
how not to remove a rusty bolt 😂😂😂
So basically only a impact will do it ..
The heat really helps...
-Will
Jesus Christ I thought this was a simple trick to it
Not every thing is simple. Sometimes you need to give it hell.
-Will
Not everything is easy sometimes you need to give it hell.
-Will
Sometimes you need to throw a-lot of heat to it.
-Will
User a saw much easier and simpler
Sometimes. Thanks for watching.
-Will
Might as well set your car on fire. Pro vs joe
We tried lol. Thanks for watching!
-Will
@@Debtfreehomesteaders safety first. Cars can be replaced not people.
Cringe.
Cringe is right! What is that burning smell? lol
Thanks for watching!
-Will
You work under a car wearing flip flops 😲