Thanks for your videos!!! I am a handyman too 40 plus years finally got to put in a mini split had done some HVAC repairers auto as well as home had all the tools just had to order a mini split took 7 hours to install i didn't rush it put those beauty covers on all the line sets looks very clean 1 and a half ton unit!!!
Not bad man, I've done quite a few and 7 hours is pretty much what it takes me. Did you also install a disconnect at the unit? I had to run a new power cable from the panel and install a new breaker aswell.
Installed a Della 1.5 ton heat pump myself. Bending the tubes down outside the wall without kinking was the trickiest part. No N2 so I just pulled a vacuum (similar pump) and verified no leaks under vacuum. No totally assured, but usually suffices. They come precharged (R32 mine), so no fooling with refrigerant. If wiring w/ stranded in conduit, you don't need a neutral, just 2 line and gnd.
Handyman just found your channel. That’s a very good business you have there. I repair CNC machines for a living and earn less than that. Makes a fella think about doing something different if you know what I mean. Thanks for the info.
All the excess line set left on the side and the excess electrical line hanging down the right side of the unit gives the appearance of Amateur work, not to mention what has already been stated about using torque wrench and a micron gage.
This left out a major step. If connecting to the panel like he did, you have to add a breaker and run wriring to external disconnect. That adds additional difficulty to this job.
Best to not have your face right in front of the gauges when you open the nitrogen tank with 1000 psi of gas in it and when full will have up to 2000 psi .. Although rare it is possible for gauges to blast apart.
I like mini splits. They aren’t right for every application but they certainly have their place. One concern I have with these Chinese units sold on Amazon is the availability of service parts. One suggestion I would make, please stop rolling up the extra line set behind the ODU. Cut the lines to length and make your own flares. The job will look more professional and justify what you are charging. You can get a flaring block for less than $100 that will make perfect flares every time. They will probably be better than the factory flares. You don’t need to worry about the unit being overcharged by using shorter line and you won’t have to remove any refrigerant. These units have liquid receivers that compensate.
@@jd1029 Not true from my experience. It is good practice to extend the line length if possible, as this will cut down on vibration/sound transfer from the compressor through the line, but operationally, there is no minimum line length.
@@robertgregory2618these do not work like a traditional split system. Since the compressors are in low mode most of the time the unit will ramp up periodically for oil return. Basically the unit is designed to compensate for pooling oil in the lines
Some history for the young: “110 volts" and "220 volts" represent an older standard for electrical wiring in the United States and Canada. However, in many regions, voltages have gradually increased from 110V to the current standard of 120/240V at 60 Hz. The term and use of 110V and 220V are still common.
You should move the drain line to the other side of the unit. You can pop out the little cap and switch sides on the indoor unit. It makes it much easier if you ever have to blow the line out when it gets clogged. Very good video for people starting out
@@TheHandyman1 no problem. You’ll see a black rubber stopper near where the pipes come out of the indoor head. Just make sure after you remove it that you put it on the other side where the drain pipe was previously.
That's an option but I found it's much easier having the drain just like he did on right. I had a tech installed on left on a prior one it's cause a leak from where he attach the drain down to outside.
The problem I see with the drain lines routed the other way is that that aren’t covered and the sun makes plastic brittle, making it more likely to cause water damage than to get clogged
Great video bud. I’m a journeyman electrician. Haven’t got my electrical contractors license yet. So I’m starting a handyman LLC for tax purposes. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
It must not be to many people in your area that can install mini splits in California specifically the inland empire its way cheaper to get an install but u did a very good job i like yo channel
Dont remove the line from the service valve after pulling vacuum. Release refrigerant before removing. You 100% let contaminates back in system. With your prices grab some digital gauges and a jb pump. At least look the part.
Well the full phrase is, "Jack of all trades and a master of none but oftentimes better than a master of one" I'm a handyman and I call my AC buddy to pull vacuum and charge lines. Not all of us are half assing it.
How come you don’t start your pilot hole from the exterior, so you can be sure your hole lands centered without measuring? I always start from the exterior with a 1/4” pilot instead of starting from the inside.
Start mine from interior carefully to make sure no hidden wires, plumbing, etc, then since I have brick exterior I drop down to bottom of original hole and hammer drill my outside pilot hole for my brick holesaw. Now I have downward slope for all linesets and drain tube so that water goes down.
To save yourself a headache and trip back to your client, make sure to fold or secure those wires in the housing safely. I’ve been to a bunch of calls were someone put that plate on and pinched the neutral under the plate.
That’s the least of his worries, he opened the line set to atmosphere after pulling a vacuum (@15:20) And he used an analog manifold with no micron gauge so he’s got no clue if any of those four threaded fittings that he may have over/under tightened are leaking. I can absolutely guarantee you that unit will stop working in a couple of years from either low refrigerant or non condensables in the system.
That’s right John I asked myself why is he taking off the gauges didn’t he want to see the pressures and then no micron gauge didn’t even see around what microns the vacuum machine pulled about well what can I say
It's amusing that mini-split installation is done by minimum-wage workers in 3rd world countries. They can pretty much install anywhere, even on high-rise condo and run the lineset across multiple walls. Yet here in America, contractors want thousands for the most basic installation.
Not really that crazy In 3rd world countries people are poorer and do a lot of things them selves so there are tons of handy people. Here not so much. I do blue color work and you’d be shocked to know how many 30-50 year old men don’t even own tools.
You're comparing two VASTLY different economies. That's why they're third world countries. Your average person in the Philippines, India, etc. isn't living in a $200k-500k house.
Most have zero idea how much it costs to run a HVAC company in the US. Take for example the vehicle required to drive to your house. Most people think it isn't much different than a personal vehicle but it's probably triple what you think.
Nice! I have a 36,000 BTU one that I ordered to use the extra electrical credits I have banked with my solar. 2nd year and I have 3,800kWh banked. I oversized my solar a bit it would seem 😀. Hopefully it will help offset our winter heating this season. Zone 5. Quick question. When one vacuums the line, to be clear, one is evacuating the lines for the head unit prior to releasing the factory refrigerant into the line set right? Also want to wait and make sure it holds a vacuum for an hour or so to test the head unit connections correct?
Yes, usually 15 minutes is long enough to wait, but to be 100% sure you should pressure test with nitrogen, as these new mini splits run at high pressure. Obviously a vacuum test is going be a difficult stress on the line set than a pressure test. That being said most guys here only pressure test refrigeration lines not aircon, here being Japan😊
Yes, when you vacuum the service valves are closed meaning the condenser unit (outside unit) is isolated from the line set (copper pipes). The service port (place you connect your gauges) at this point runs to the head unit threw the evap coil then back outside to the other service valve which does not have a port to connect gauges. The idea is to remove any moisture and air that may have been introduced when you when connecting the flare fittings. Yes you want to wait and make sure the vacuum holds with the system isolated and the vac pump off. Ideally a micron gauge should be used as its WAY more precise than a compound analog gauge based on the fact that Handyman is pressuring testing with nitrogen up to 300psi we know the system is tight so its not a critical to have a micron gauge. If you DIY this i would suggest getting a micron gauge as most dont bother with getting a nitrogen setup
No thanks.. I consider myself pretty handy but to pay a tech 3g to install the unit is insane. Now granted you have to run a disconnect box for electricity. Probably ask crazy uncle Bob to wire the circuit
@@linhchau9788 A back to back install with 10 feet of copper tubing 1/4 - 3/8 pre-insulated plus a 2-12 AWG NMWU wire and a 4-14 Comm Cable, 1 wall rack, 1 15 or 20 amp 2 pole 230V breaker and other knick-knacks runs about 350-450$ for materials, it takes between 3-5 hours to install a single-zone mini-split. Usually a licensed HVAC tech will charge around 1500-2000$ to install one mini-split unit, including all materials except the pump. 500 goes for the truck/travelling expenses 350-450 goes for the materials per interior unit. you would pay around 300-400 for the tech depending on area per interior unit installed. rest you keep on the side to cover the warranty and fixed costs, which is usually 1 year limited. I keep 10-15% of my revenue in a savings account to cover warranties. As you not only cover the unit, but also any related damage caused by the installation, meaning a leaking interior unit destroying a wall or floor would quickly run you above 5k$ in repairs. You don't go through insurance as after 3-4 claims, you won't be insured against water damage anymore. Anything above that is profits for the company. Usually 1000 to 2000 $ gross profit for the business. In most states you need a license to connect the disconnect to the electrical panel, but not the outdoor unit to the disconnect.
@@linhchau9788 I agree completely. And, with the money you'd save doing the install yourself, you could easily just hire an electrician to do that part for you and still be way ahead.
How does that electrical wire hold up outside after a few years if in full UV? EDIT: Should have watched till end...you have it pretty well wrapped DOUBLE EDIT: I was wondering where you were going to run drain tube I installed a used one in my home once. It lasted maybe a year, then the blower bearing went out. It was used enough to be given back to the AC company for a new one to be installed though. Def got me through. Going to get another one if I ever have AC out with coil issue.
Where do you live most single phase measures more than 240 on a RMS meter. Close to 250 depending on distance from transformer. Even 3 phase I normally see around 220 when its considered 208
When using wall mount brackets or any install id look up the minimum clearance all the way around they generally call for like a foot or more im not saying they won't work or that amazon won't refund you money but its worth looking at
Have you replaced an existing unit? Wondering process be easier if you can reuse any connections. Its on the 2nd story thinking of taking head out putting the hoses, cords back through the hole and connect to the system runs up side of the house. Electrical is also run and set up. The current unit just stopped working and I cant find anyone to service it.
@@JR-iy7pb I have a Mr cool, it's great, I also bought a second cheapie unit from eBay that I had to pull a vacuum on, it was so simple, not sure why people make a mountain out of a mile hill.
Good point.. Your getting into a gold mine and you realize that... To get a bid here in the NW they want 5-7 grand to put in a system. They might have a lot of bells and whistles but who cares a 12000 is 12000 end of story.. I bought a 12000 Goodman (made by Daiken) for $650 out the door, tax, shipping everything...HVAC people are ripping off the people. There is gonna be a huge demand for these. Europe and the Asian countries have had these for decades....
@@tonyd4346 You don't fix it you buy another. I just paid 650 bucks for a 12000 btu Goodman built by Daiken. With everything I need to put in. HVAC guys want 5-6 grand to put in , ridiculous. Don't need all the bells and whistles.
How do you charge pressure test bottle to 1000 psi?!? Can you provide any info about pressure test bottle system? I can't find compressor that can do 1000 psi? Im guessing you refill that pressure tank between installations... Great video btw...
What system is better, heat pump or mini split? I have a heat pump. The AC works great. They clamor about how efficient the heat pump is. Yeah that goes out the window when temps dip below 40 and those heat strips light up. Efficiency out the window at that point.
A mini-split is a heatpump, it's just the name some use for a wall-mounted ductless heatpump. Mini-Split can get SEERs above 30 and HSPFs above 12 in Zone 4 climates, while ducted heatpumps will usually stop at 18 SEER and about 10 HSPF zone 4. Heatpumps will produce heat most of the year, for a 12k unit the typical performance is 7k btu of heating at 17F, but some 12k btu units will keep 10k btu of heating all the way down to -20F and will continue heating past -25F at reduced efficiency. Most Heatpumps will stop producing heat at around -15 or -18F to protect the Outdoor unit. Usually the larger the unit the more efficient it is a low temps. a 18k btu will keep around 11.6k btu at of heating at 17F typically. Those BTUs are around a Performance Coefficient of 2 to 2.5, meaning the heat produced is more than twice as efficient as the heat produce by baseboard or electrical furnace heating, regardless of if you need those to turn on, you will still save money of heating. If you have an old verticall dischard heatpump of more than 8 years, it could be beneficial to change it for a more modern horizontal discharge unit of HSPF1 of 11 or above. Best brands are usually Japanese, with Trane and GREE not far behind in the top 10.
I want to install some sort of mini split or full central unit. I currently have steam heat which is nice and cheap. But those giant rads are FUGLY and a hazard lol. Have you see the ducted mini splits? The heads are a turn off for me lol. 😂😂😂😂
Just curious, since this brand doesn't already have the refrigerant in its lines, can't you trim the copper lines and re flare them? Any reason why you wouldn't/didn't in this case?
Yes. I could do that. there really isn't a pay off for doing that on single zones. On multi zones where you need to keep the line set distance down so you keep the refrigerant per foot up I would cut and flare them.
I really like the opportunity that mini split installs provide. What is your warranty on install and do you get many call backs on none-install related issues?
5 year warranty through me. Never had a call back but I'm sure I will. These only cost $550 they are throwaway units. You would not repair them you would replace them.
@@TheHandyman1 Have you had any issues with the units? Lightning / purge surge frys the control board etc? That 5 year warranty is nice but i feel like you might get screwed as i assume you are just getting these from amazon? EDIT: i see from your other post you haven't had a call back yet
So is the version without pre-charged line set? The link shows precharged but my thinking would be precharged line set you wouldn’t have to pressurized the lines (?)
It’s honestly comical the labor charges HVAC techs charge to install them. After installing five different brands, this is not specialized work by any stretch of the imagination. Any reasonably competent DIY person can handle.
How many competent DIY people do you know? I know maybe 2 in about 24 homeowners I know personally. That's why HVAC techs charge that amount and can get away with it.
There are lots of old houses that do not have forced air ducts in them. So this saves you from having to tear apart the interior of your house. This would also probably be common in places with a temparate climate that may have only had radiant heat before but they're starting to get warm spells where some AC would be nice. Also...if you want to heat/cool your garage since it's not allowed to be connected to your house's main HVAC system due to exhaust fumes.
This specific system is limited. However there are similar ones that allow for multiple line sets, and power to be installed. They include built in pumps to remove condensate to the outside. But these are typically ceiling units instead of wall units. You can do a whole house with them. Finally even for units like the one in the video, depending on the cooling capability, you can place the unit in a living room or dining room and cool down most of a home. Yes it is limited, but is also DIY friendly. It doesn't require the high costs for retrofitting older homes with AC. These units are also more energy effecient and some units a full heat pumps that can provided heating and cooling. I would implore you to do some research on them when you have the time.
@@dragonhero14 Yeah, looks like they make a "multi split" system that is wall mounted and similar to a mini split. I think that's what I'd need. My home is two stories with no ductwork.
Wjat exactly are those gauges doing and the vacuum pump doing? If the refrigerant is already in the lines cant you just hook the lines up and ipen the allen key ways?
Don't they have mini splits that already have the line charged? I remember the downside being that the lines are extremely long so you kind of have to coil it up and tuck it behind the unit. But maybe I'm misremembering.
Buy the 115V version (12000 or 9000 BTU) and a 12 gauge extension cord, snip off the female end, strip the wires, connect to the outdoor unit, and plug it into your wall outlet if you don't have inspections. Problem solved w/o having to hire an electrician and save a few bucks.
Absolutely criminal to charge someone that much for a job like that. I'm a small businesses owner myself, but the disgusting moral-less, greed fueled exploitation that is our economy is destroying this country. You're no better than those big greedy corporations that everyone rightfully hates.
Pretty safe to assume no one forced the home owner to hire that guy I always shop around for the best price but that doesn’t mean you’re gonna get the best job done Could be that’s what that job goes for in his area
@@ALLworldCONSTRUCTIONLLC For those curious about 12 ft-lbs 1/4, 25 ft-lbs 3/8, 35 ft-lbs 1/2, 45 ft-lbs 5/8 ( good luck with small westcott wrenches ) give or take 3 ft-lbs depending on the manual you read. 3/4 you torque that bitch until your fingers hurt and you push air through your lips. That's good enough. The correct torque is the torque applied as long as there are no leaks and no breakage on the flairs. Do not use the suggested re-torque method as some lines are frail and will split when using that method, such at the 1/4 line using 8 ft-lbs, than retorque at 12-15 ft-lbs. You will often go right past 15 and split your flair.
@@TheHandyman1 I think most people are under the impression you charge that price for just the install, without materials included. That price is very fair for any unit 12kbtu of 17seer and over. I'd recommand you to check out Fieldpiece equipment, the micron gage and dual valve core-remover is an extremely good combo. That and a 7 or above CFM pump with dedicated big-bore vacuum line will cut your vacuum time in half. Doing a nitrogen pressure test is great, as most installers won't do it, and will only use the manifold gage to check vacuum, which is meaningless, as you need to be bellow or at least at 500 micron after 15-20 minutes of standing vacuum test to have a good vacuum, and .1 change of that manifold at -30 meaning +.1 change on the manifold is about 1000 micron plus of movement. Also, if you do many of these, I would look into the NAVAC electric flaring tool, which will cut your flairing time a lot, and save your wrists in the long run.
In this case it does include the electrical. It was only 1 hour and $150 in wire to run power to the disconnect. I wasn't expecting the mouse situation and should have charged double for dealing with that.
I want to install some sort of mini split or full central unit. I currently have steam heat which is nice and cheap. But those giant rads are FUGLY and a hazard lol. Have you see the ducted mini splits? The heads are a turn off for me lol. 😂😂😂😂
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
Go check out the video of running the electrical wires through this house from the panel to the disconnect www.patreon.com/thehandyman
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That is correct.
Just remember, if the women don’t find you handsome, they should find you handy.
Red green!
😂😂😂😂😂😂 I’m stealing this quote.
Not handsy
Remember, women aren't worth the time. Women understand women and they hate each other.
Keep your stick on the ice
Thanks for your videos!!! I am a handyman too 40 plus years finally got to put in a mini split had done some HVAC repairers auto as well as home had all the tools just had to order a mini split took 7 hours to install i didn't rush it put those beauty covers on all the line sets looks very clean 1 and a half ton unit!!!
Not bad man, I've done quite a few and 7 hours is pretty much what it takes me. Did you also install a disconnect at the unit? I had to run a new power cable from the panel and install a new breaker aswell.
How on earth do you work so much then still have the motivation or energy to film and edit videos. I cannot even imagine how you do that.
Its not easy. Its a game of motivation that I play every day.
@@TheHandyman1 I dunno man, motivation is fleeting. What you have is insane discipline to keep grinding like that.
🤜🤛 Respek
@@TheHandyman1you’re a go-getter, keep at it my man and wish you great success!
Film everything from tripod or similar, edit when time permits, would be my guess...
Installed a Della 1.5 ton heat pump myself. Bending the tubes down outside the wall without kinking was the trickiest part. No N2 so I just pulled a vacuum (similar pump) and verified no leaks under vacuum. No totally assured, but usually suffices. They come precharged (R32 mine), so no fooling with refrigerant. If wiring w/ stranded in conduit, you don't need a neutral, just 2 line and gnd.
How exactly are you pulling a vacuum if it comes precharged? Sorry I’ve only ever charged systems myself so not familiar with how that works
Handyman just found your channel. That’s a very good business you have there. I repair CNC machines for a living and earn less than that. Makes a fella think about doing something different if you know what I mean. Thanks for the info.
All the excess line set left on the side and the excess electrical line hanging down the right side of the unit gives the appearance of Amateur work, not to mention what has already been stated about using torque wrench and a micron gage.
I do commercial refrigeration…have done a lot of these for offices too..never used a micron gauge….
Cool video Handy. I’m onboard with the mini splits. Thanks for the instructions. HandyOn!
This left out a major step. If connecting to the panel like he did, you have to add a breaker and run wriring to external disconnect. That adds additional difficulty to this job.
Put your nylog on the inside of the flair nut to lubricate it so it does not twist the line when tightening it. I saw this on HVACR videos.
Best to not have your face right in front of the gauges when you open the nitrogen tank with 1000 psi of gas in it and when full will have up to 2000 psi .. Although rare it is possible for gauges to blast apart.
holy!.. your video is very thorough!... thank you for taking the time and effort to make this video!
I like mini splits. They aren’t right for every application but they certainly have their place. One concern I have with these Chinese units sold on Amazon is the availability of service parts. One suggestion I would make, please stop rolling up the extra line set behind the ODU. Cut the lines to length and make your own flares. The job will look more professional and justify what you are charging. You can get a flaring block for less than $100 that will make perfect flares every time. They will probably be better than the factory flares. You don’t need to worry about the unit being overcharged by using shorter line and you won’t have to remove any refrigerant. These units have liquid receivers that compensate.
Many of these have a minimum line length you must maintain. This often requires some line rolling.
@@jd1029 Not true from my experience. It is good practice to extend the line length if possible, as this will cut down on vibration/sound transfer from the compressor through the line, but operationally, there is no minimum line length.
Installed two at my place and the extra coiled up like behind the compressor looks like hack, amateur hour.
@@jd1029 But that causes compressor oil to stay at the bottom of the pipe and not migrate back to compressor.
@@robertgregory2618these do not work like a traditional split system. Since the compressors are in low mode most of the time the unit will ramp up periodically for oil return. Basically the unit is designed to compensate for pooling oil in the lines
I have HVAC experience. Would be tempting to start a biz pushing these but need a license in my state
Some history for the young: “110 volts" and "220 volts" represent an older standard for electrical wiring in the United States and Canada. However, in many regions, voltages have gradually increased from 110V to the current standard of 120/240V at 60 Hz. The term and use of 110V and 220V are still common.
And don’t forget the standard that was in between. 115/230 volts
You should move the drain line to the other side of the unit. You can pop out the little cap and switch sides on the indoor unit. It makes it much easier if you ever have to blow the line out when it gets clogged. Very good video for people starting out
I will check on the next one I do if it as that option. Thanks for the tip.
@@TheHandyman1 no problem. You’ll see a black rubber stopper near where the pipes come out of the indoor head. Just make sure after you remove it that you put it on the other side where the drain pipe was previously.
That's an option but I found it's much easier having the drain just like he did on right. I had a tech installed on left on a prior one it's cause a leak from where he attach the drain down to outside.
The problem I see with the drain lines routed the other way is that that aren’t covered and the sun makes plastic brittle, making it more likely to cause water damage than to get clogged
@@linhchau9788 if the leak happened the other way it would be down the inside wall so outside wall is probably a better option
Great video bud. I’m a journeyman electrician. Haven’t got my electrical contractors license yet. So I’m starting a handyman LLC for tax purposes. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
It must not be to many people in your area that can install mini splits in California specifically the inland empire its way cheaper to get an install but u did a very good job i like yo channel
Dont remove the line from the service valve after pulling vacuum. Release refrigerant before removing. You 100% let contaminates back in system. With your prices grab some digital gauges and a jb pump. At least look the part.
Well the full phrase is, "Jack of all trades and a master of none but oftentimes better than a master of one" I'm a handyman and I call my AC buddy to pull vacuum and charge lines. Not all of us are half assing it.
@@chadharrigan68 You're the perfect example of "oftentimes better than a master of one"!
How come you don’t start your pilot hole from the exterior, so you can be sure your hole lands centered without measuring? I always start from the exterior with a 1/4” pilot instead of starting from the inside.
Start mine from interior carefully to make sure no hidden wires, plumbing, etc, then since I have brick exterior I drop down to bottom of original hole and hammer drill my outside pilot hole for my brick holesaw. Now I have downward slope for all linesets and drain tube so that water goes down.
To save yourself a headache and trip back to your client, make sure to fold or secure those wires in the housing safely. I’ve been to a bunch of calls were someone put that plate on and pinched the neutral under the plate.
Handyman didnt use the fancy digical torque limiter wrench. Get ready to get roasted handyman 😂
That’s the least of his worries, he opened the line set to atmosphere after pulling a vacuum (@15:20) And he used an analog manifold with no micron gauge so he’s got no clue if any of those four threaded fittings that he may have over/under tightened are leaking. I can absolutely guarantee you that unit will stop working in a couple of years from either low refrigerant or non condensables in the system.
That’s right John I asked myself why is he taking off the gauges didn’t he want to see the pressures and then no micron gauge
didn’t even see around what microns the vacuum machine pulled about well what can I say
Smart work dry fitting it on the wall before doing all that extra work wiring it and doing the linesets
The only thing I would suggest is probably run a micron gauge when you pull vacuum just to make sure you don't have any micro leaks a 7-year leak
It's amusing that mini-split installation is done by minimum-wage workers in 3rd world countries. They can pretty much install anywhere, even on high-rise condo and run the lineset across multiple walls. Yet here in America, contractors want thousands for the most basic installation.
Not really that crazy
In 3rd world countries people are poorer and do a lot of things them selves so there are tons of handy people. Here not so much. I do blue color work and you’d be shocked to know how many 30-50 year old men don’t even own tools.
You're comparing two VASTLY different economies. That's why they're third world countries. Your average person in the Philippines, India, etc. isn't living in a $200k-500k house.
@@gan_the_white Japan is $500 to install. Cost of house doesn't matter, simply companies can get away with charging X amount so they are going to.
They won't even install them, they want you to buy a $15k central AC unit.
Most have zero idea how much it costs to run a HVAC company in the US. Take for example the vehicle required to drive to your house. Most people think it isn't much different than a personal vehicle but it's probably triple what you think.
That Patreon only video you posted today was hellufunny!!!😂😂😂😂😂😂
All these comments, I haven't found the mention of core extraction tool and why to use it. There are two very good reasons to use it.
Thats what I used in my 13 bay shop for 20 years. A low tech dry erase board.
Nice! I have a 36,000 BTU one that I ordered to use the extra electrical credits I have banked with my solar. 2nd year and I have 3,800kWh banked. I oversized my solar a bit it would seem 😀. Hopefully it will help offset our winter heating this season. Zone 5.
Quick question. When one vacuums the line, to be clear, one is evacuating the lines for the head unit prior to releasing the factory refrigerant into the line set right? Also want to wait and make sure it holds a vacuum for an hour or so to test the head unit connections correct?
Yes, usually 15 minutes is long enough to wait, but to be 100% sure you should pressure test with nitrogen, as these new mini splits run at high pressure. Obviously a vacuum test is going be a difficult stress on the line set than a pressure test. That being said most guys here only pressure test refrigeration lines not aircon, here being Japan😊
Nice clean install, well done
Yes, when you vacuum the service valves are closed meaning the condenser unit (outside unit) is isolated from the line set (copper pipes). The service port (place you connect your gauges) at this point runs to the head unit threw the evap coil then back outside to the other service valve which does not have a port to connect gauges. The idea is to remove any moisture and air that may have been introduced when you when connecting the flare fittings. Yes you want to wait and make sure the vacuum holds with the system isolated and the vac pump off. Ideally a micron gauge should be used as its WAY more precise than a compound analog gauge based on the fact that Handyman is pressuring testing with nitrogen up to 300psi we know the system is tight so its not a critical to have a micron gauge. If you DIY this i would suggest getting a micron gauge as most dont bother with getting a nitrogen setup
you are supposed to put the nylog on the other way. the purpose of flare fittings is for a metal to metal surface seal. Nylong goes on threads.
Wrong
@@TheHandyman1 says the "handyman"
The last words of the video was funny AF
Do you know you can move the drain to the other side? The pan has a fitting on both sides.
3000 bucks to install a mini split. Damm you are having a good wk my brother... 😢
Most companies charge that then pay each tech 300 each before taxes lol
No thanks.. I consider myself pretty handy but to pay a tech 3g to install the unit is insane. Now granted you have to run a disconnect box for electricity.
Probably ask crazy uncle Bob to wire the circuit
@@linhchau9788 A back to back install with 10 feet of copper tubing 1/4 - 3/8 pre-insulated plus a 2-12 AWG NMWU wire and a 4-14 Comm Cable, 1 wall rack, 1 15 or 20 amp 2 pole 230V breaker and other knick-knacks runs about 350-450$ for materials, it takes between 3-5 hours to install a single-zone mini-split.
Usually a licensed HVAC tech will charge around 1500-2000$ to install one mini-split unit, including all materials except the pump.
500 goes for the truck/travelling expenses
350-450 goes for the materials per interior unit.
you would pay around 300-400 for the tech depending on area per interior unit installed.
rest you keep on the side to cover the warranty and fixed costs, which is usually 1 year limited. I keep 10-15% of my revenue in a savings account to cover warranties. As you not only cover the unit, but also any related damage caused by the installation, meaning a leaking interior unit destroying a wall or floor would quickly run you above 5k$ in repairs. You don't go through insurance as after 3-4 claims, you won't be insured against water damage anymore.
Anything above that is profits for the company. Usually 1000 to 2000 $ gross profit for the business.
In most states you need a license to connect the disconnect to the electrical panel, but not the outdoor unit to the disconnect.
@@linhchau9788 well he lives in a hire dollar neighborhood you don't !
@@linhchau9788 I agree completely. And, with the money you'd save doing the install yourself, you could easily just hire an electrician to do that part for you and still be way ahead.
How does that electrical wire hold up outside after a few years if in full UV?
EDIT: Should have watched till end...you have it pretty well wrapped
DOUBLE EDIT: I was wondering where you were going to run drain tube
I installed a used one in my home once. It lasted maybe a year, then the blower bearing went out. It was used enough to be given back to the AC company for a new one to be installed though. Def got me through. Going to get another one if I ever have AC out with coil issue.
Why did you change from Markate to Jobber? Any main reasons
You say its' 240 in the US, but all the voltages I have ever measures is always about 220.
120-240 for decades.....
Where do you live most single phase measures more than 240 on a RMS meter. Close to 250 depending on distance from transformer. Even 3 phase I normally see around 220 when its considered 208
Handyman rocking a Rolex watch!
Use that $3k to buy some new hole saws
Or a full body suit to not crawl in the mouse poop 😂😂😂😂
Great job Sir! Excellent information 👍 ❤Sub
tostot and tubro basically same thing, gree makes both of them aswell as mr cool.
Gree does make Tosot, but Midea makes Mr. Cool.
@@riotgear6891 it depends which one you looking at, mr cool universal central air is for sure gree, some mini splits models could be either
When using wall mount brackets or any install id look up the minimum clearance all the way around they generally call for like a foot or more im not saying they won't work or that amazon won't refund you money but its worth looking at
Have you replaced an existing unit? Wondering process be easier if you can reuse any connections. Its on the 2nd story thinking of taking head out putting the hoses, cords back through the hole and connect to the system runs up side of the house. Electrical is also run and set up. The current unit just stopped working and I cant find anyone to service it.
Know this is an older video but I was curious what size cylinder do you have for your nitrogen?
I didn’t have to do any of that vacuum stuff with my Mr Cool . About to be the end of 3 rd summer in south east and that thing just works
Mr Cool 12000BTU = $1299. Tosot 12000BTU = $699. Not having to pull vacuum costs you $600 extra.
@@JR-iy7pb I have a Mr cool, it's great, I also bought a second cheapie unit from eBay that I had to pull a vacuum on, it was so simple, not sure why people make a mountain out of a mile hill.
So if I wanted to learn this trade, what licenses are needed , electrical, Hvac to charge the units ?
I would suggest using a micron gauge, it will give you a more accurate vacuum and show any possible leaks
He did a 1000psi timed test. I think he's good on leaks.
220, 221, whatever it takes.
Who will be doing your service work??? Putting in is easy but who will do the trouble shooting. These units are complex..
You don't service these things. All made in china and you throw them away if they break. They only cost a few hundred bucks for a new one.
Good point.. Your getting into a gold mine and you realize that... To get a bid here in the NW they want 5-7 grand to put in a system. They might have a lot of bells and whistles but who cares a 12000 is 12000 end of story.. I bought a 12000 Goodman (made by Daiken) for $650 out the door, tax, shipping everything...HVAC people are ripping off the people. There is gonna be a huge demand for these. Europe and the Asian countries have had these for decades....
@@TheHandyman1 Good point.
@@tonyd4346 You don't fix it you buy another. I just paid 650 bucks for a 12000 btu Goodman built by Daiken. With everything I need to put in. HVAC guys want 5-6 grand to put in , ridiculous. Don't need all the bells and whistles.
How do you charge pressure test bottle to 1000 psi?!? Can you provide any info about pressure test bottle system? I can't find compressor that can do 1000 psi? Im guessing you refill that pressure tank between installations... Great video btw...
What system is better, heat pump or mini split? I have a heat pump. The AC works great. They clamor about how efficient the heat pump is. Yeah that goes out the window when temps dip below 40 and those heat strips light up. Efficiency out the window at that point.
A mini-split is a heatpump, it's just the name some use for a wall-mounted ductless heatpump.
Mini-Split can get SEERs above 30 and HSPFs above 12 in Zone 4 climates, while ducted heatpumps will usually stop at 18 SEER and about 10 HSPF zone 4.
Heatpumps will produce heat most of the year, for a 12k unit the typical performance is 7k btu of heating at 17F, but some 12k btu units will keep 10k btu of heating all the way down to -20F and will continue heating past -25F at reduced efficiency. Most Heatpumps will stop producing heat at around -15 or -18F to protect the Outdoor unit.
Usually the larger the unit the more efficient it is a low temps. a 18k btu will keep around 11.6k btu at of heating at 17F typically.
Those BTUs are around a Performance Coefficient of 2 to 2.5, meaning the heat produced is more than twice as efficient as the heat produce by baseboard or electrical furnace heating, regardless of if you need those to turn on, you will still save money of heating.
If you have an old verticall dischard heatpump of more than 8 years, it could be beneficial to change it for a more modern horizontal discharge unit of HSPF1 of 11 or above.
Best brands are usually Japanese, with Trane and GREE not far behind in the top 10.
So the system doesn't need to be vacuumed down like on a car before filling? How's that work?
@TheHandyman1 Do you ever have to re-fill the refrigerant, like 3-5 years later or anything on these units?
Looks good 👍
Thanks 👍
our guy out here contracting kuru for us
Nice Hokas Handy!!! 😉
I think 220v is becyhats what other countries use but our standard has been 240v and 120v for as long as i know but i was born in the 80s
Been slow flipping houses for 22 years in Phoenix. Always toss central air and replace with mini splits. DIY install, pre-charged. Love them.
Great job Handy 👏👍💪 heyyy I remember you installing that other one under the deck, what was it last summer? Was that a larger unit 🤔
Yes it was. They liked it so much they asked for another one. I'm predicting I install a 2 zone system for the remaining to bedrooms next summer.
@@TheHandyman1 Nice! 🤑💲💰😁 Great money maker and not too hard on the body except for that electric work. 1 of those a week would be awesome
I want to install some sort of mini split or full central unit. I currently have steam heat which is nice and cheap. But those giant rads are FUGLY and a hazard lol. Have you see the ducted mini splits? The heads are a turn off for me lol. 😂😂😂😂
cant warranty this install tho can you?
Tosot = 2 Sought
Or at least that’s what my HVAC guy said.😉
Very nice
Just curious, since this brand doesn't already have the refrigerant in its lines, can't you trim the copper lines and re flare them? Any reason why you wouldn't/didn't in this case?
Yes. I could do that. there really isn't a pay off for doing that on single zones. On multi zones where you need to keep the line set distance down so you keep the refrigerant per foot up I would cut and flare them.
I really like the opportunity that mini split installs provide. What is your warranty on install and do you get many call backs on none-install related issues?
5 year warranty through me. Never had a call back but I'm sure I will. These only cost $550 they are throwaway units. You would not repair them you would replace them.
@@TheHandyman1 thank you! Great content.
$609 on Amazon for 9k btu. Might try on in my garage. I live in Texas and I bet the wife would like a cool garage/car when it is 95+.
@@larrykaufman1761 keep your eye open for sales and discount codes. I often see the 9k units for $500 ish.
@@TheHandyman1 Thank you!! I just retired and am thinking about starting a mini split install biz in Tyler Texas. Thanks for the motivation.
So do you provide the warranty service on the units you install?
5 year warranty through me.
@@TheHandyman1 Have you had any issues with the units? Lightning / purge surge frys the control board etc? That 5 year warranty is nice but i feel like you might get screwed as i assume you are just getting these from amazon? EDIT: i see from your other post you haven't had a call back yet
I get them from the manufacture at a discount.
@@TheHandyman1these units make it four years it's paid for itself.
guess you could pull a vacuum as well as pressurize.
3:49 idk about you but when i do the math 110 +110 equals 220.
So is the version without pre-charged line set?
The link shows precharged but my thinking would be precharged line set you wouldn’t have to pressurized the lines (?)
These are not pre-charged line sets. The link does not go to pre-charged line set. All compressors are pre-charged.
You probably gave the mice a disease at this point bro
It’s honestly comical the labor charges HVAC techs charge to install them. After installing five different brands, this is not specialized work by any stretch of the imagination. Any reasonably competent DIY person can handle.
How many competent DIY people do you know? I know maybe 2 in about 24 homeowners I know personally. That's why HVAC techs charge that amount and can get away with it.
So you added the cost of the unit to the labor I assume? You bought the unit wholesale I assume?
I supply the unit.
You have a 608 cert?
PPE?
Easy.
Only took him 18min. 😂
9:50 Sure…. “Piece of cake” NOT! I’m being sarcastic. HE HE HE…But on the real, This is why you’re worth $3000. No way would I try to do this.
So this cools one room, correct? Seems like it has limited applications. Probably useful for an apartment I guess.
Cools and heats. 12,000 BTU can cool a good size living room.
There are lots of old houses that do not have forced air ducts in them. So this saves you from having to tear apart the interior of your house. This would also probably be common in places with a temparate climate that may have only had radiant heat before but they're starting to get warm spells where some AC would be nice. Also...if you want to heat/cool your garage since it's not allowed to be connected to your house's main HVAC system due to exhaust fumes.
This specific system is limited. However there are similar ones that allow for multiple line sets, and power to be installed. They include built in pumps to remove condensate to the outside. But these are typically ceiling units instead of wall units. You can do a whole house with them. Finally even for units like the one in the video, depending on the cooling capability, you can place the unit in a living room or dining room and cool down most of a home. Yes it is limited, but is also DIY friendly. It doesn't require the high costs for retrofitting older homes with AC. These units are also more energy effecient and some units a full heat pumps that can provided heating and cooling. I would implore you to do some research on them when you have the time.
My issue is that all the bedroom doors would have to stay open
@@dragonhero14 Yeah, looks like they make a "multi split" system that is wall mounted and similar to a mini split. I think that's what I'd need. My home is two stories with no ductwork.
first time I have actually work...
Wjat exactly are those gauges doing and the vacuum pump doing? If the refrigerant is already in the lines cant you just hook the lines up and ipen the allen key ways?
the refrigerant is not already in the lines. Its in the condenser.
You have to evacuate all the air from the system before you can release the refrigerant into the system.
Don't they have mini splits that already have the line charged? I remember the downside being that the lines are extremely long so you kind of have to coil it up and tuck it behind the unit. But maybe I'm misremembering.
@@SomeGuy. Thanks. I guess my next question would be if the $3600 is including parts or is that just labor. Where I'm at I would be $1500 labor max
That includes the mini split and all parts and a 5 year warranty
$3700 way to much 12,000 BTU mini split for $2000 installed.
You forgot the big head !
I though about it. It seems to piss too many people off.
@@TheHandyman1 must’ve been the ladyboy’s. 😊
Buy the 115V version (12000 or 9000 BTU) and a 12 gauge extension cord, snip off the female end, strip the wires, connect to the outdoor unit, and plug it into your wall outlet if you don't have inspections. Problem solved w/o having to hire an electrician and save a few bucks.
How do you seal the hole in the side of the house? Spray foam?
I like the cover up with the ducting. Cheers
I seal it up just like I showed in this video. I even showed a close up of how its sealed up.
@@TheHandyman1 Oh. My. God. I can't believe I didn't catch that. Ha! Thanks!
Absolutely criminal to charge someone that much for a job like that. I'm a small businesses owner myself, but the disgusting moral-less, greed fueled exploitation that is our economy is destroying this country. You're no better than those big greedy corporations that everyone rightfully hates.
Pretty safe to assume no one forced the home owner to hire that guy I always shop around for the best price but that doesn’t mean you’re gonna get the best job done Could be that’s what that job goes for in his area
220 for life never 240
👍
For 3k you cant afford a helper? Lol
You should have torqued the line set.
I did.
@@TheHandyman1 👍
@@TheHandyman1 next time click your tongue. ;)
How many inch lbs torque smarty pants? Real men know tightness by experience
@@ALLworldCONSTRUCTIONLLC
For those curious about 12 ft-lbs 1/4, 25 ft-lbs 3/8, 35 ft-lbs 1/2, 45 ft-lbs 5/8 ( good luck with small westcott wrenches ) give or take 3 ft-lbs depending on the manual you read.
3/4 you torque that bitch until your fingers hurt and you push air through your lips. That's good enough.
The correct torque is the torque applied as long as there are no leaks and no breakage on the flairs.
Do not use the suggested re-torque method as some lines are frail and will split when using that method, such at the 1/4 line using 8 ft-lbs, than retorque at 12-15 ft-lbs. You will often go right past 15 and split your flair.
$3,700 for the job?
Yes that's a turnkey price including the mini split and all other parts.
@@TheHandyman1
I think most people are under the impression you charge that price for just the install, without materials included.
That price is very fair for any unit 12kbtu of 17seer and over.
I'd recommand you to check out Fieldpiece equipment, the micron gage and dual valve core-remover is an extremely good combo. That and a 7 or above CFM pump with dedicated big-bore vacuum line will cut your vacuum time in half.
Doing a nitrogen pressure test is great, as most installers won't do it, and will only use the manifold gage to check vacuum, which is meaningless, as you need to be bellow or at least at 500 micron after 15-20 minutes of standing vacuum test to have a good vacuum, and .1 change of that manifold at -30 meaning +.1 change on the manifold is about 1000 micron plus of movement.
Also, if you do many of these, I would look into the NAVAC electric flaring tool, which will cut your flairing time a lot, and save your wrists in the long run.
That includes the unit as well as all the electrical work
@@TheHandyman1does that also include the electrical or is that separate?
In this case it does include the electrical. It was only 1 hour and $150 in wire to run power to the disconnect. I wasn't expecting the mouse situation and should have charged double for dealing with that.
👍👍😎✌️🤟
That should be a lot closer to a $6,000 day.
@@JohnstonPettigrew yike 😭
@@linhchau9788😮✅......I make the most handyman money in the whole world 🌎
You could probably get two of these done in a solid day.
First!
I want to install some sort of mini split or full central unit. I currently have steam heat which is nice and cheap. But those giant rads are FUGLY and a hazard lol. Have you see the ducted mini splits? The heads are a turn off for me lol. 😂😂😂😂