Always good and helpful content from you. You are an excellent teacher! Thanks for all the time and hard work you put in to your posts. I always look forward to them. I know I’m not the only one who does.
Wonderful video. I started using Amaco Velvet Underglazes a couple of years ago and love them. I find that the best clear for me is Amaco Zinc Free Clear as it doesn't distort the underglazes when I'm doing more intricate work. Thank you so much for all the wonderful ideas and techniques.
@@annruel1982 I have learned so much from your videos and now that I'm teaching, I tell everyone to watch your RUclips channel. You and your husband are an amazing team!
Lovely, this has really made me want to go and start carving, it's funny how the first mug you carved actually looked like it was not round anymore, but zigzaged 😃
Hi Pherine. Im glad you are inspired to go and make one. Awesome. Zigzagged, ....I know what you mean. Those zigs and zags give the piece movement and sort of trick your eye into thinking the piece is a different shape. Great observation.
Thanks Deb. I have a lot of practice, ut the good thing is that this technique does not really require a steady hand. It is very freeform so shakiness is welcome. 🙂
Hi! I'm pretty new to pottery but am loving it. I really appreciate your informative and fun videos! Maybe you can help me with a problem. I made a fun bowl, painted it with underglazes and carved scaraffito fishes with a pin tool. It looked great! After bisque firing I dabbed it with two coats of clear gloss glaze but didn’t go quite to the bottom of the bowl.. However after the second firing, the clear glaze application had smeared the underglazes to partially obscure the carved fishes. Also, the clear glaze ran and glued the bowl to a bisque fired tile that was under the bowl. I broke the bowl when I tried to chip the bowl off of the tile. How do I keep the gloss from smearing the underglaze? And how do I keep the glaze from dripping and glueing my bowl to the tile? I noticed in this video of yours that you put the clear glaze down to the very bottom of your mugs and it didn't run to glue your item to the kiln shelf or tile underneath. I would prefer to have my glaze go all the way down, like you did, because it looks nice to not leave a base with only clay and no glaze. How do you do that? Thanks, Christie
Hi Christie. You are right, that I did glaze my piece all the way to the bottom. Im sorry about the problems that you had with your piece. I totally understand and have had that happen before. There are a couple of things that might be the problem. It could be that the glaze recipe you are using was a runny glaze and there are some glazes that if they are on the runny side, you just cant glaze them all the way the bottom as they will run right off the pot. The other thing might be that the glaze was not "runny" but perhaps when cleaning the glaze off the bottom of your pot you might have not quite cleaned quite enough off the side of the piece. I always clean the bottom with a damp sponge and then go right along the edge of the side of the body....about a 16th of an inch to an 8th of an inch up the side. One other thing I can tell you is that when a part of the glaze turns milky, that usually means that there was just too much glaze on that part of the piece. It may have been that when you dabbed the glaze on the piece, where your dabber hit the table, it might have squeezed extra glaze so that it pooled right at the bottom so that it was just a bit too thick right there. Perhaps trying to avoid places where the glaze could pool just by picking the piece up from the inside while glazing right to the bottom will help with that. Good luck! If you still have problems with that glaze, I would recommend trying the Amaco Mixing Clear or the Amaco Zinc Free Clear.
Thank you for your tutorial! I was able to make a nice mug with similar underglaze technique for the very first time! I wish I could share my results with you.
This is beautiful! Thanks for sharing. May I ask - how do you clean your brushes after? Can you clean them in the sink or does it have to be done separately and water discarded.
I've just been delving into the underglazes lately and these are wonderful examples for a beginner. I know you don't fire to cone 10 but you might be able to give advice or maybe someone reading this can. When I have a large field of Amaco black velvet underglaze on greenware or bisque that I then cover with a zinc free clear in the bisque stage, I end up with the black parts bubbling when fired to cone 10. Wondering how I can avoid this.
Hey Vicki. You are right that I dont fire to cone 10, but when you are saying that your underglaze is bubbling, I am thinking that the gas from the clay underneath the underglaze is having trouble escaping during the firing process. For me it is places where the underglaze was too thick and a bit cakey. Do you think when you applied the underglaze you may not have applied it in thin layers to the surface but it may have just gone on too thick?
@@annruel1982 I feel like I've done thin layers as well as thick layers since I'm an impatient person. I'll try to be more aware of this and see if it's better. I have a bowl here at home that I will be carving today. Might be the perfect time to do some under glazing.
Hi Margot. You mean that the handle was a mess ??.....or you messed up the surface of the mug when you tried to attach it? You are right, it is a delicate process and I did have to repaint some of the underglaze right around the attachments once I had the handle in place. the trick it to let the handle dry to the same level of dryness as the body, then try and keep your fingers off the body of the mug as much as possible. Then like I said before, just repair anything around the attachment that may have gotten covered over with excess slip. Good luck.
Looks great. Is the white just the natural white from the clay or is it underglazed? If the first is the case, what type of clay do you use? Thanks for the video
How do you add the white color!? Because I use white clay but when I add the clear glaze looks ivory color not total white.🤷🏻♀️ Only works in white when I use porcelain.🤔. Thank you!🙏🏼🌸
I was just wondering if there is a matte finish clear glaze from amaco that would work with this technique. Your design method was so easy to follow the way you explained it it just blew me away, stunning work
Hello!!! The color of the clay I find in my country is not a nice one, so I have to use a white o beig glace. Can a under glace over the white or beig glace? Thank you.
I am confused on the firing cones, she said she bisque fired at 04 which seems fine but then did another firing for the clear glaze at cone 5, isn't cone 5 much much hotter? Underglazes don't have such a wide firing range of cone 04- cone 5. And typically bisque firing is hotter to provide strength then glaze firing is cooler. So my question is does the underglaze color which recommends a firing of cone04-05 color change dramatically when firing at cone 5 for the clear glaze? Isnt this a problem?
Yes, I did all the work on greenware. Bisqued to 04 THEN put the clear glaze over (which I dont usually do) and then fired to Cone 5 (yes, hotter) as Amaco C-11 calls for Cone 5-6. You are correct, typically, the Cone 5 with the clear glaze will change the underglaze colors but in this case since we're really doing just black its no big deal. Check out my video on Underglaze Painting 101 for more info.
Well, that is somewhat objective. For me, and carving, it is the place when you can carve the clay without a lot of dust (too dry) or too squishy it wont hold a carved pattern (too soft). Technically, its "the condition of a clay or clay body when it has been partially dried to a consistency similar to leather of the same thickness as the clay". At this stage, the clay object has approximately 15% moisture content
I have many types of carving tools I've used over the years and sometimes my needle tool does the trick. However, if I am looking for a specific carving look, its hard to beat Diamondcore. I know we sound like we are advertising them a lot, but we are not compensated by them - I just really like their tools. Very high quality, last forever, and a great company to deal with if you have a problem with a tool.
Hi Ana. Someone else asked that question today as well. Here is what I wrote back,,,, Engobes are quite similar to underglazes and are sometimes used interchangeably when potters talk about decorating pottery with either of them. I am under the thinking that the difference between engobes and underglazes are that the engobes have more frits (sort of like crushed glass) in them so they are able to melt into a somewhat glassier surface than underglazes whereas the underglazes are very matte when fired without glazes. That said, you can glaze over top of both of them if you like. does that make sense? That is my understanding. Hope that helps
Hi Suzanne. Engobes are quite similar to underglazes and are sometimes used interchangeably when potters talk about decorating pottery with either of them. I am under the thinking that the difference between engobes and underglazes are that the engobes have more frits (sort of like crushed glass) in them so they are able to melt into a somewhat glassy surface whereas the underglazes are very matte when fired without glazes. That said, you can glaze over top of both of them if you like. does that make sense?
@@annruel1982 Yes! Your answer sure helps me to understand. I wanted to buy underglazes but could not found real explanations about their specific uses.
@@suzannerouleau6127 From what I have read, there is a bit of frit mixed in too. (frit is sort of like a crushed glass which melts and gives it more of a glassy appearance). I found this on the internet..."Engobe is very much like a slip, but the differentiating factor is that engobes are formulated using fritted material, which reduces shrinkage. Due to this change in components, engobes are used on pottery that has already been bisqued
I havent tried to make my own underglaze as it is a long process to disperse the materials so they are just right. I saw one recipe which required 12 hours of ball milling. It is much easier to purchase commercial underglazes. Amaco Velvets are my favorites. 🙂
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video. And what a great intro to underglazing!
Always good and helpful content from you. You are an excellent teacher! Thanks for all the time and hard work you put in to your posts. I always look forward to them. I know I’m not the only one who does.
Hey Fruitless. That is so sweet of you. Thanks so much!!! Ann
The black and white look classy!
Thanks Chris. I love the drama that black/white gives, too.
Wonderful video. I started using Amaco Velvet Underglazes a couple of years ago and love them. I find that the best clear for me is Amaco Zinc Free Clear as it doesn't distort the underglazes when I'm doing more intricate work. Thank you so much for all the wonderful ideas and techniques.
Thanks Billye for the kind words and for the tips. Amaco rocks!
@@annruel1982 I have learned so much from your videos and now that I'm teaching, I tell everyone to watch your RUclips channel. You and your husband are an amazing team!
@@billyesinger2920 Thats great that you are teaching. Congratulations!! Thank you so much for recommending our videos. You are so sweet.
Lovely, this has really made me want to go and start carving, it's funny how the first mug you carved actually looked like it was not round anymore, but zigzaged 😃
Hi Pherine. Im glad you are inspired to go and make one. Awesome. Zigzagged, ....I know what you mean. Those zigs and zags give the piece movement and sort of trick your eye into thinking the piece is a different shape. Great observation.
Only a quarter of the way through and I'm so happy. Your videos always improve my weekends. ❤️
Gosh Em!! You are always a joy to hear from too. Thanks as always for watching. We so appreciate you!
Espcially liked the one with the long fern fronds.
Hey Alisa! Thanks so much!!
Good tips!! You have a lot of patience and a steady hand ❤
Thanks Deb. I have a lot of practice, ut the good thing is that this technique does not really require a steady hand. It is very freeform so shakiness is welcome. 🙂
Simple yet beautiful! Thanks as always!!
Hey Michele!! We really appreciate you. Thanks!!
Explain it! Thank you! This is exactly what I needed 😊
🖤🤍🖤 Beautiful!
Thanks so much Michelle!!
Very beautiful. Thank you very much.
You have the hand stability of a surgeon. I would make every line wonky lol.
Beautiful. 💓💕💖
Yeah!!!! Gracias!
Thank you sharing the video, I made juicer but in throwing wheel.
Thanks!
Hi Beth!! Wow, ,thanks so much!! You are so sweet, 🙂
wish i could add 20 thumbs up! Beautiful!
Hey Lin!! Yeah!!!! thanks so much. Happy potting to you!!
Hi! I'm pretty new to pottery but am loving it. I really appreciate your informative and fun videos! Maybe you can help me with a problem. I made a fun bowl, painted it with underglazes and carved scaraffito fishes with a pin tool. It looked great! After bisque firing I dabbed it with two coats of clear gloss glaze but didn’t go quite to the bottom of the bowl.. However after the second firing, the clear glaze application had smeared the underglazes to partially obscure the carved fishes. Also, the clear glaze ran and glued the bowl to a bisque fired tile that was under the bowl. I broke the bowl when I tried to chip the bowl off of the tile. How do I keep the gloss from smearing the underglaze? And how do I keep the glaze from dripping and glueing my bowl to the tile? I noticed in this video of yours that you put the clear glaze down to the very bottom of your mugs and it didn't run to glue your item to the kiln shelf or tile underneath. I would prefer to have my glaze go all the way down, like you did, because it looks nice to not leave a base with only clay and no glaze. How do you do that? Thanks, Christie
Hi Christie. You are right, that I did glaze my piece all the way to the bottom. Im sorry about the problems that you had with your piece. I totally understand and have had that happen before. There are a couple of things that might be the problem. It could be that the glaze recipe you are using was a runny glaze and there are some glazes that if they are on the runny side, you just cant glaze them all the way the bottom as they will run right off the pot. The other thing might be that the glaze was not "runny" but perhaps when cleaning the glaze off the bottom of your pot you might have not quite cleaned quite enough off the side of the piece. I always clean the bottom with a damp sponge and then go right along the edge of the side of the body....about a 16th of an inch to an 8th of an inch up the side. One other thing I can tell you is that when a part of the glaze turns milky, that usually means that there was just too much glaze on that part of the piece. It may have been that when you dabbed the glaze on the piece, where your dabber hit the table, it might have squeezed extra glaze so that it pooled right at the bottom so that it was just a bit too thick right there. Perhaps trying to avoid places where the glaze could pool just by picking the piece up from the inside while glazing right to the bottom will help with that. Good luck! If you still have problems with that glaze, I would recommend trying the Amaco Mixing Clear or the Amaco Zinc Free Clear.
Very nice
Thank you so much!! How kind of you!
Thank you for your tutorial! I was able to make a nice mug with similar underglaze technique for the very first time! I wish I could share my results with you.
If you are on Facebook - you can join our Pottery Studio Group and share there - would love to see them!
I LOVE THIS !! Love sgraffito and this tutorial is so helpful! TFS ! 🎨✨️
Thanks for this,it was super helpful!
Stunning I truly love your videos simple easy to follow and stunning results
This is beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
May I ask - how do you clean your brushes after? Can you clean them in the sink or does it have to be done separately and water discarded.
I just wash them in water in the sink.
I've just been delving into the underglazes lately and these are wonderful examples for a beginner. I know you don't fire to cone 10 but you might be able to give advice or maybe someone reading this can. When I have a large field of Amaco black velvet underglaze on greenware or bisque that I then cover with a zinc free clear in the bisque stage, I end up with the black parts bubbling when fired to cone 10. Wondering how I can avoid this.
Hey Vicki. You are right that I dont fire to cone 10, but when you are saying that your underglaze is bubbling, I am thinking that the gas from the clay underneath the underglaze is having trouble escaping during the firing process. For me it is places where the underglaze was too thick and a bit cakey. Do you think when you applied the underglaze you may not have applied it in thin layers to the surface but it may have just gone on too thick?
@@annruel1982 I feel like I've done thin layers as well as thick layers since I'm an impatient person. I'll try to be more aware of this and see if it's better. I have a bowl here at home that I will be carving today. Might be the perfect time to do some under glazing.
@@vzeimen Good luck. Impatience is my problem too. It always helps to let the first layer dry before adding the next and so on.....if that helps too.
Excellent! How do you attach the handles after underglaze has been applied? I’ve tried it your way and it was a mess.
Hi Margot. You mean that the handle was a mess ??.....or you messed up the surface of the mug when you tried to attach it? You are right, it is a delicate process and I did have to repaint some of the underglaze right around the attachments once I had the handle in place. the trick it to let the handle dry to the same level of dryness as the body, then try and keep your fingers off the body of the mug as much as possible. Then like I said before, just repair anything around the attachment that may have gotten covered over with excess slip. Good luck.
Looks great. Is the white just the natural white from the clay or is it underglazed? If the first is the case, what type of clay do you use? Thanks for the video
Just the white color from my clay - Standard porcelain #365
How do you add the white color!? Because I use white clay but when I add the clear glaze looks ivory color not total white.🤷🏻♀️ Only works in white when I use porcelain.🤔. Thank you!🙏🏼🌸
My white liner glaze - recipe in description. Have fun!
I was just wondering if there is a matte finish clear glaze from amaco that would work with this technique. Your design method was so easy to follow the way you explained it it just blew me away, stunning work
I'm not sure...I dont do a lot of clear glazing but I'm sure someone out there might have a suggestion!
I do have a question what would be the advantage of using underglaze instead of slib/engobe on raw pieces?
Hello!!! The color of the clay I find in my country is not a nice one, so I have to use a white o beig glace. Can a under glace over the white or beig glace?
Thank you.
I am confused on the firing cones, she said she bisque fired at 04 which seems fine but then did another firing for the clear glaze at cone 5, isn't cone 5 much much hotter? Underglazes don't have such a wide firing range of cone 04- cone 5. And typically bisque firing is hotter to provide strength then glaze firing is cooler. So my question is does the underglaze color which recommends a firing of cone04-05 color change dramatically when firing at cone 5 for the clear glaze? Isnt this a problem?
Yes, I did all the work on greenware. Bisqued to 04 THEN put the clear glaze over (which I dont usually do) and then fired to Cone 5 (yes, hotter) as Amaco C-11 calls for Cone 5-6. You are correct, typically, the Cone 5 with the clear glaze will change the underglaze colors but in this case since we're really doing just black its no big deal. Check out my video on Underglaze Painting 101 for more info.
Hi, I’m new to carving. What do you mean by leather hard?
Well, that is somewhat objective. For me, and carving, it is the place when you can carve the clay without a lot of dust (too dry) or too squishy it wont hold a carved pattern (too soft). Technically, its "the condition of a clay or clay body when it has been partially dried to a consistency similar to leather of the same thickness as the clay". At this stage, the clay object has approximately 15% moisture content
Do you think the diamond core tool is worth all the money they charge.
I have many types of carving tools I've used over the years and sometimes my needle tool does the trick. However, if I am looking for a specific carving look, its hard to beat Diamondcore. I know we sound like we are advertising them a lot, but we are not compensated by them - I just really like their tools. Very high quality, last forever, and a great company to deal with if you have a problem with a tool.
Is underglaze same as engobe?
Hi Ana. Someone else asked that question today as well. Here is what I wrote back,,,, Engobes are quite similar to underglazes and are sometimes used interchangeably when potters talk about decorating pottery with either of them. I am under the thinking that the difference between engobes and underglazes are that the engobes have more frits (sort of like crushed glass) in them so they are able to melt into a somewhat glassier surface than underglazes whereas the underglazes are very matte when fired without glazes. That said, you can glaze over top of both of them if you like. does that make sense? That is my understanding. Hope that helps
@@annruel1982 thanks a lot! I'm sorry, didn't see the other question answered. Thanks for the very helpful answer
@@AnaMahsati No problem Ana. Have a great day!
Is underglaze the same than "engobe" ?
Hi Suzanne. Engobes are quite similar to underglazes and are sometimes used interchangeably when potters talk about decorating pottery with either of them. I am under the thinking that the difference between engobes and underglazes are that the engobes have more frits (sort of like crushed glass) in them so they are able to melt into a somewhat glassy surface whereas the underglazes are very matte when fired without glazes. That said, you can glaze over top of both of them if you like. does that make sense?
@@annruel1982 Yes! Your answer sure helps me to understand. I wanted to buy underglazes but could not found real explanations about their specific uses.
@@annruel1982 Engobe is only clay, pigments and water.
@@suzannerouleau6127 From what I have read, there is a bit of frit mixed in too. (frit is sort of like a crushed glass which melts and gives it more of a glassy appearance). I found this on the internet..."Engobe is very much like a slip, but the differentiating factor is that engobes are formulated using fritted material, which reduces shrinkage. Due to this change in components, engobes are used on pottery that has already been bisqued
What is this clay body Anne ??
Standard Porcelain #365
Under glaze step by step recipe??
I havent tried to make my own underglaze as it is a long process to disperse the materials so they are just right. I saw one recipe which required 12 hours of ball milling. It is much easier to purchase commercial underglazes. Amaco Velvets are my favorites. 🙂
Please don't explain it ! :)) (the drawing) It takes away the creativity ! Pots are beautifull no problem .Thanks
Ok, thank you
I like the explaining! Please continue to do so.❤
Simple yet beautiful! Thanks as always!!
Thanks so much Michele!! 🙂🙂🙂
Thanks!
Wow, Judy!! Thanks so much. That is so generous of you. We really appreciate it.
Thanks!
Thanks for your contribution and welcome to the team! Be on the look out for your title in an upcoming video!