Hi from England we come up against this sort of problem quite often best glue ever Rust. I remember one time Ford Fiesta couldn’t get the drive shaft out of the hub - took the whole steering knuckle off had 30;tons on the end of the shaft plus heat never did get it out that one beat me😢
Been there done that got the tee shirt. That's why I bought that astro tool with the forcing screw. Had to order it out of England too. It has worked awesome for me but it's not big enough for truck wheel bearings. I'm going to contact the tool supplier recommend they make a bigger adapter for truck boot patterns.
I’ve been there until I bought the Astro 4980 and high flow air line fittings. Now I can get ball joints in and out in seconds wheel bearings tremble at the power of the 4980 and just fall out. I hope you got the tiger balm treatment after that beating.
@@Jack-ns5mn I bought another puller from Amazon. Got it today. It has three adjustable jaws and a super heavy duty forcing screw. I believe that it would work. It's like the one I had on the floor. www.amazon.ca/dp/B07RXPKB8V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
i'm no pro mechanic but i've been watching a pile of videos on the hubs, ball joints and wheel bearing replacements and I think it would be easier if you would of took off the tie rods, and ball joint bolts and loosen that control arm off the hub assembly, that way you can knock it off from behind and in the front to give it room to move. Pounding the piss out of it in one piece doesn't make sense. You just wasted a bunch of time. Everyone....if you doing this....take the extra 15 mins, loosen the tie rod , upper and lower ball joints and you can avoid this pain.
The problem with this one was the cv shaft not moving in the hub rusted into the spline. Your suggestion to remove the knuckle would not really help in my opinion but thanks for the suggestion though.
@@PhillipBailey I love in Canada and work in the oilfield, so cold winters and dusty gravel roads. I have a 2011 ram 1500 and took off the hub. I loosened off all the tie rods, upper and lower ball joint so the hub could pivot back and forth...it tapped out so easy. You can say that my suggestion may not help but you never even tried. At least the hub was able to be hammered towards you cause it has more play than what you have. I really would of liked to see you try that. One thing I can say is the hub came off so smooth but my rotars took alot to hammer out cause they were rusted on the face of the hub.
@gmdaddyrocks7730 As I mentioned the problem was not removing the bearing from the knuckle it was pushing the axle shaft through the spline area of the wheel bearing. Around here they use a tremendous amount of salt on the roads in the winter. The salt causes rust to build up in the cv shaft splines.
I was huffing and puffing along with you as you used all your energy with the sledge hammer! .7h? You might have to start quoting a possible extra charge for fused together metal removal on top of regular time so you don’t lose, and if comes off in .7 or close, no extra charge. (Note to self, get a thread file) I would be hooped as I don’t have a torch! This shows you are worth every perky you charge! Looks like you put some anti seize for next time! Thanks Phillip and camera gal!
that is the reason i refuse to quote jobs… ive done a few ram wheel bearings on a service call in a parking lot never had the axle seize into bearing but have had fun getting bearing out of knuckle
I’ve had to remove whole assemblies and put in my big press. 17 tons to break loose. I’ve had a ford once so bad I had to melt it. Nothing worked. And if the axle splines are that bad you know the assembly is going to in that aluminum knuckle something fierce.
Loosen ball joint nuts. Use penetrating oil. Rent a puller. Pull the hub off and tap the loosened bolts from behind. Of corse damaging things is always cheeper😬
@@truthrevealed9293 the upper ball joint does not need to be disconnected to remove the wheel bearing. The axle shaft splines are rusted into the spines in the wheel bearing. The shaft should normally slide right in. You obviously have never replaced a bolted in hub bearing
😅 Once you open the ,Control Arm this fierce battle will quickly end😊
wow that a really hard job.. that reminds me of the days of king pin job on truck.....job for heart attack, good job great video thanks
That is not the proper way to do that you should undo the top ball joint. Beating on that shaft like that is not good for the joints.
Hi from England we come up against this sort of problem quite often best glue ever Rust. I remember one time Ford Fiesta couldn’t get the drive shaft out of the hub - took the whole steering knuckle off had 30;tons on the end of the shaft plus heat never did get it out that one beat me😢
Been there done that got the tee shirt. That's why I bought that astro tool with the forcing screw. Had to order it out of England too. It has worked awesome for me but it's not big enough for truck wheel bearings. I'm going to contact the tool supplier recommend they make a bigger adapter for truck boot patterns.
I’ve been there until I bought the Astro 4980 and high flow air line fittings. Now I can get ball joints in and out in seconds wheel bearings tremble at the power of the 4980 and just fall out. I hope you got the tiger balm treatment after that beating.
Hmmm I need more tools...
Just ordered the 4980 on Amazon. That's the Big Nasty from South Main Auto...
@@PhillipBailey i was just going to comment you need big nasty
@@PhillipBailey Big nasty has a bit more power with the half inch shaft but still gets defeated on the tough ones.
@@Jack-ns5mn I bought another puller from Amazon. Got it today. It has three adjustable jaws and a super heavy duty forcing screw. I believe that it would work. It's like the one I had on the floor. www.amazon.ca/dp/B07RXPKB8V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I had the same problem yesterday on a 2012 ,I used a puller
Which puller if I might ask.
i'm no pro mechanic but i've been watching a pile of videos on the hubs, ball joints and wheel bearing replacements and I think it would be easier if you would of took off the tie rods, and ball joint bolts and loosen that control arm off the hub assembly, that way you can knock it off from behind and in the front to give it room to move. Pounding the piss out of it in one piece doesn't make sense. You just wasted a bunch of time. Everyone....if you doing this....take the extra 15 mins, loosen the tie rod , upper and lower ball joints and you can avoid this pain.
The problem with this one was the cv shaft not moving in the hub rusted into the spline. Your suggestion to remove the knuckle would not really help in my opinion but thanks for the suggestion though.
@@PhillipBailey I love in Canada and work in the oilfield, so cold winters and dusty gravel roads. I have a 2011 ram 1500 and took off the hub. I loosened off all the tie rods, upper and lower ball joint so the hub could pivot back and forth...it tapped out so easy. You can say that my suggestion may not help but you never even tried. At least the hub was able to be hammered towards you cause it has more play than what you have. I really would of liked to see you try that. One thing I can say is the hub came off so smooth but my rotars took alot to hammer out cause they were rusted on the face of the hub.
@gmdaddyrocks7730 As I mentioned the problem was not removing the bearing from the knuckle it was pushing the axle shaft through the spline area of the wheel bearing. Around here they use a tremendous amount of salt on the roads in the winter. The salt causes rust to build up in the cv shaft splines.
Why don't they put a little grease on these for next round down the road? Wouldn't that help a little?@@PhillipBailey
@@13612 that costs money.
That makes for a long day.. I always wonder how it would be to work down south? Good vid!!!
I was huffing and puffing along with you as you used all your energy with the sledge hammer! .7h? You might have to start quoting a possible extra charge for fused together metal removal on top of regular time so you don’t lose, and if comes off in .7 or close, no extra charge. (Note to self, get a thread file) I would be hooped as I don’t have a torch! This shows you are worth every perky you charge! Looks like you put some anti seize for next time! Thanks Phillip and camera gal!
Oh man I’ve had a couple I’ve had to take the spindle off with the axle and send to the engine shop so they could push it out with the 100ton press
I ordered another tool and a bigger air hammer. I really believe shocking it breaks loose the rust better than straight pressure.
Man I don’t miss salt mixed with steel and aluminum way too persevere thanks for sharing
that is the reason i refuse to quote jobs…
ive done a few ram wheel bearings on a service call in a parking lot
never had the axle seize into bearing but have had fun getting bearing out of knuckle
When your ancestors located in the area wasn't there someone saying go south ?
Then I'd have to put up with floods, drought, earthquakes, tornadoes etc. Pros and cons to everything for sure.
@@PhillipBailey +Lets not forget alligators!!
I’ve had to remove whole assemblies and put in my big press. 17 tons to break loose. I’ve had a ford once so bad I had to melt it. Nothing worked.
And if the axle splines are that bad you know the assembly is going to in that aluminum knuckle something fierce.
Loosen ball joint nuts. Use penetrating oil. Rent a puller. Pull the hub off and tap the loosened bolts from behind.
Of corse damaging things is always cheeper😬
You don't understand but the spline section of the outer cv joint is rusted into the splines in the bearing. ..
3:08 made me laugh...that was me tonight for a few minutes on my 2wd tradesman front passenger side, but I won a lot quicker than this...lol
I'm convinced that they dip some parts in toxic waste before installing them at the factory...
The toxic waste is sprayed in the highways to melt snow and ice...
OH MY ! 😮
Excellent, "How NOT to" video !
Maybe you have a better method?
Dosen't take nothing to change a wheel bearing. Lol Been there before. Never give up attitude wins again.
yOU NEED SOME hEAT bRO..THAT,LL DO THE TRICK..
dude don't know what doing undo top joint ding a ling
@@truthrevealed9293 the upper ball joint does not need to be disconnected to remove the wheel bearing. The axle shaft splines are rusted into the spines in the wheel bearing. The shaft should normally slide right in. You obviously have never replaced a bolted in hub bearing
@@PhillipBailey ok Sherlock