To smooth the start I just increase the speed More slowly in the software, so if the controller has a higher value than the current board speed, it will increase the boardspeed by x every 100ms for example. This motor does not have direct feed back so we can only adjust the desired board speed. There are a lot of BLDC motors with hall sensors, with those you can make a real smooths acceleration curve. Now breaking is a bit rough. I just break via some resistors... but its hard to have the balance between no break at all and too strong of a break + a burnt resistor. Idealy you buy a more expensive ESC that handles that. But hey i wanted the good old cheap stuff
Be careful with the SSR as they usually fail closed. With the mechanical relay, does it have a flyback diode? Perhaps you could use multiple parallel relays in series for slower switching, and redundancy?
Yeah the SSR relay was a bad idea to start with. But yes the other relay has a flyback diode on it. Even tho Im using a small relay to switch the big one so the voltage spikes shouldn't harm anything regardless.
@@bootlegengineer diode still saves on damaging the load relay contacts from excessive arcing if opened under load, but would probably last basically forever regardless. Awesome build!
You need at least 10k subs!
what about the range?
I usually get 20km on a full charge with the batteries I used.
Hey bro will u plzz share the controller and circuit diagram also
I mean the code too
How did you go about smoothing the start and the brake?
To smooth the start I just increase the speed More slowly in the software, so if the controller has a higher value than the current board speed, it will increase the boardspeed by x every 100ms for example. This motor does not have direct feed back so we can only adjust the desired board speed. There are a lot of BLDC motors with hall sensors, with those you can make a real smooths acceleration curve.
Now breaking is a bit rough. I just break via some resistors... but its hard to have the balance between no break at all and too strong of a break + a burnt resistor. Idealy you buy a more expensive ESC that handles that. But hey i wanted the good old cheap stuff
Be careful with the SSR as they usually fail closed. With the mechanical relay, does it have a flyback diode? Perhaps you could use multiple parallel relays in series for slower switching, and redundancy?
Yeah the SSR relay was a bad idea to start with. But yes the other relay has a flyback diode on it. Even tho Im using a small relay to switch the big one so the voltage spikes shouldn't harm anything regardless.
@@bootlegengineer diode still saves on damaging the load relay contacts from excessive arcing if opened under load, but would probably last basically forever regardless. Awesome build!