Looks just like my Coal Iron Works 12 ton. It does not auto return to you can use it as a vice. Coal Iron Works mounts the hydraulic unit on top of the reservoir so it is an uber compact unit. Forge On!!!
Freaking awesome man I want to build . I had to leave or donate rather a huge press behind for n Seattle when I made a huge move across country and have been jonesing for a smaller press etc etc
What a great design! This is exactly the kind of setup I’m looking for. I love that you have it on wheels and you can easily move it out of the way when not in use. Is there anything you don’t like about it or wish you would’ve done differently?
Thanks for the feedback. The only thing I would add would possibly be a foot pedal connection for the valve. Other than that the overall design has been working well for what I do in my shop. I will have a new video out soon and I will be using a lot of the quick change dies in that build for some Mosaic that I am making.
This is by far one of the best press builds that I have seen and explained in the most simplest of terms. I have been wanting to build a table-top version of a press and I was worried about the structure because all of the DiY presses I see online are using H - channels and those can be heavy as hell. Using 1/4" - 2x2 tubing for the uprights and reinforcing it with the L brackets and a strong base plate makes the job much easier. Then sandwiching the 1" plate between (2) 1/2" plates gives it the strength it needs to hold the press jack. I also like how you showed the table structure first, then the pumps. That being said, I want to follow this design to build my own press. Can you tell me the dimensions of your table/stand? LxWxH ... as well as height of the press tubes?
Thanks for the feedback. The table is made of 1/8" wall, 1-3/4" square tubing. The dimensions are L 30" x W 22" X H 28". For the height you also need to determine what roller/castor size your going to use and also the top of the table is made of 3/4" plywood covered with 3/16" sheet steel. The 2x2 uprights are 39" long with a 1" thick steel plate on top and bottom. If you look at the pictures at the end of the video you can see how I designed it and welded things together. Good luck on your build.
@@MichaelJonesCustomKnives Thanks for the info. That helps me greatly. I have the 2x2" tubing laying around from my 2x72" belt grinder build. However, it's only 1/8" wall. With all of the other reinforcement metal, I am wondering if that would do? I am still fascinated by your build ... cool man ... cool!
I would not use 1/8 wall tubing for this type of setup. The wall of 1/8 tubing is pretty thin and over time I think it would fatigue and stress crack\break which could be very dangerous. With 1/8 wall tubing for the 2x2 they will be under a lot of load and will flex each time you put pressure on the press and over time that can crack welds. If your going to build a DIY press it needs to be engineered for safety first, then functionality even it cost a little more. My cylinder puts out 18.5 tons of down pressure, if something was to break it could send hot steel flying which could cause a serious injury or catch your shop on fire. Just my opinion.
@@MichaelJonesCustomKnives I tend to agree with you after thinking about it. I found someone that gave me some 2x2x.25" square tubing so I'm good with that. Thanks again for the advice and a great design!
Você está de parabéns, excelente trabalho. Servirá de inspiração para fabricação da minha prensa para cutelaria. (Congratulations, excellent work. It will serve as inspiration for making my hydraulic press for cutlery.)
That's exactly what I want to build! (Don't want to spend the money on a Coal Iron press) Do you have a parts list with manufacture and model numbers? I want to make sure that "this ram" will work with "this pump" and "this valve" etc. Thanks.
Sorry, I don't have a parts list. I ordered my pump and valve as a kit off of eBay and I bought my cylinder from Magister Hydraulics. Everything else was bought from local suppliers in my area. If your worried about compatibility of pump's, cylinders, etc. you can go to the manufacturers web site and get the specs for the equipment your looking to buy and make sure everything is compatible or not. The main thing to remember is that you don't want to pair a pump that will exceed the maximum rated pressure of the hoses and cylinder your gong to use. Buying a pump and valve as a kit will ensure the valve and pump are compatible and rated correctly. If your not sure what your doing I highly recommend talking to someone from the manufacturer to determine if your proposed setup is safe or not.
Hi Keith It cost approximately $900 in parts (cylinder, pump, detent valve, motor, suction hose, electric motor, wiring, etc..) and maybe another $2-300 in steel. I had some steel left over from some other projects that I used. Mind you that steel prices along with everything else has gone up so overall cost might be higher than what I am stating here. Hope this helps. Michael
Thanks for the reply for sure. That’s not as bad as I had figured. But unfortunately I got rid of all my steel and pipe after I retired and we moved. That the way things go but still that’s worth building. You did a class act craftsman work on your assy. Well done Sir.
@@keithmarshall62 If you got a steel supply yard near you, they may have a "cut-off" section for partial sticks of steel. There's one near me and the cut-offs go for pennies on the dollar compared to the full length stuff. Keep an eye on the supply and go check it frequently, and you may be able to source material cheaper than others.
Best DIY design I've seen yet !! I am wanting to follow your lead and copy your design for myself !! can you tell me what size dies you are using ? I'm also wondering how wide of a billet you normally do with your press ? would you be willing to give with and depth dimensions ? I know you state approximately 2"between 2x2 supports how wide is that ? I'm think 12-16' wide ?? such a nice design I appreciate you sharing it with everyone !!!
Thanks for the feedback. The dies are built on 1/4" thick, 3"x6" plate steel. The flat die in the video is 1" thick by 2"x4" and welded to the 3x6 plate. All of my dies are built on this size plate. My typical billet size is 1.5" wide and anywhere from 4 to 8 inches in length depending on what I am making at the time. I usually use 1.5" wide billets so I can pass it between the uprights on the side when setting my initial forge welds. The overall width of the press frame is 12 inches. The top and bottom plates are 1" thick, by 6' x 12". I used the same size for the cross member at the top where the cylinder attaches, and for the cross member with the die attachments at the end of the ram. The large cross member on the bottom that holds the bottom die is 2" thick by 6" x 12". If you look at the pictures at the end of video you can see how I put the press together. Hope that helps.
This is a great source of information. Thank you. I have many questions regarding calculations of motor speed, pump capabilities, hose psi, cylinder diameter, and stroke. I have a press with a very large cylinder in diameter fairly short in stroke and running off of 110 AC 2 hp motor capabilities. The stroke is very slow and I need to speed it up and would like to know how to determine appropriate and safe changes. Do you have any recommendations for reference material or calculations? Thanks in advance!
Taylor, thanks for the question. I am not a fluid mechanics\hydraulics expert by any means. I did my own research on the limits and pressures of the equipment I purchased to make this press. Hydraulics can be very dangerous due to the very high pressures involved. I recommend that you reach out to the manufacturer of the equipment you have to get their recommendations on how to configure or speed up your hydraulic cylinder. Serious damage or injury can happen if you exceed the speciation's\pressures that your cylinder, pump, and hoses are rated for. If your wanting more speed than what your cylinder is rated for you may need to consider redesigning your configuration to meet your requirements. Hope this helps. Michael
The auto return is a safety feature that is set at the factory at 3000 PSI to prevent blowing hoses or damaging the pump and cylinder. It is adjustable but I personally would not change it. High pressure hydraulic oil is dangerous. With that said, I use my press like a vise all the time to hold pieces in place. I simply apply down pressure until it locks in place and release the valve handle. It will not move unless I release it or reach the 3000 PSI max pressure. So the cylinder will stay in place until you decide to apply more pressure or release it.
@@MichaelJonesCustomKnives oh, I missunderstood the definition of auto return. Seen some presses where the cylinder retracts soon as you let go of the lever, which could be handy at times, and a P.I.T.A. other times.
In this setup the cylinder does not auto retract when you let go of the handle, the cylinder will stay put. It only auto retracts when the 3000 PSI limit is reached.
At the end of the video I included some photos of the cart frame. There are 2 square tubing crossmembers welded into the cart frame and the press frame is bolted to that. Look at the video at the 13:03 timestamp and you will see some photos of what I am describing.
Dan - I answered a similar question about cost to build this press in the comments below. Please look at @keithmarshall62 question in the comments and my reply. Thanks
Dang. I’ve been using a modified log splitter forge press and one day I’m going to make something like this. Definitely giving me some ideas 👍🏻👍🏻
Good simple design. I like how you can access from the narrow side as well.
Awesome build. I need to make one myself.
Best DIY I’ve seen
Thanks, I wanted something simple and compact so this was the design I came up with.
great video and great design. thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for watching
Looks just like my Coal Iron Works 12 ton. It does not auto return to you can use it as a vice. Coal Iron Works mounts the hydraulic unit on top of the reservoir so it is an uber compact unit.
Forge On!!!
Less the 5000 price tag right?
I have less than $1K in materials to build this press.
Freaking awesome man
I want to build . I had to leave or donate rather a huge press behind for n Seattle when I made a huge move across country and have been jonesing for a smaller press etc etc
What a great design! This is exactly the kind of setup I’m looking for. I love that you have it on wheels and you can easily move it out of the way when not in use. Is there anything you don’t like about it or wish you would’ve done differently?
Thanks for the feedback. The only thing I would add would possibly be a foot pedal connection for the valve. Other than that the overall design has been working well for what I do in my shop. I will have a new video out soon and I will be using a lot of the quick change dies in that build for some Mosaic that I am making.
This is by far one of the best press builds that I have seen and explained in the most simplest of terms. I have been wanting to build a table-top version of a press and I was worried about the structure because all of the DiY presses I see online are using H - channels and those can be heavy as hell. Using 1/4" - 2x2 tubing for the uprights and reinforcing it with the L brackets and a strong base plate makes the job much easier. Then sandwiching the 1" plate between (2) 1/2" plates gives it the strength it needs to hold the press jack. I also like how you showed the table structure first, then the pumps. That being said, I want to follow this design to build my own press. Can you tell me the dimensions of your table/stand? LxWxH ... as well as height of the press tubes?
Thanks for the feedback. The table is made of 1/8" wall, 1-3/4" square tubing. The dimensions are L 30" x W 22" X H 28". For the height you also need to determine what roller/castor size your going to use and also the top of the table is made of 3/4" plywood covered with 3/16" sheet steel. The 2x2 uprights are 39" long with a 1" thick steel plate on top and bottom. If you look at the pictures at the end of the video you can see how I designed it and welded things together.
Good luck on your build.
@@MichaelJonesCustomKnives Thanks for the info. That helps me greatly. I have the 2x2" tubing laying around from my 2x72" belt grinder build. However, it's only 1/8" wall. With all of the other reinforcement metal, I am wondering if that would do? I am still fascinated by your build ... cool man ... cool!
I would not use 1/8 wall tubing for this type of setup. The wall of 1/8 tubing is pretty thin and over time I think it would fatigue and stress crack\break which could be very dangerous. With 1/8 wall tubing for the 2x2 they will be under a lot of load and will flex each time you put pressure on the press and over time that can crack welds. If your going to build a DIY press it needs to be engineered for safety first, then functionality even it cost a little more. My cylinder puts out 18.5 tons of down pressure, if something was to break it could send hot steel flying which could cause a serious injury or catch your shop on fire. Just my opinion.
@@MichaelJonesCustomKnives I tend to agree with you after thinking about it. I found someone that gave me some 2x2x.25" square tubing so I'm good with that. Thanks again for the advice and a great design!
I like the design and might just steal some or most of it.
Appreciate the feedback Justin, if you have any questions I would be happy to answer them.
Você está de parabéns, excelente trabalho. Servirá de inspiração para fabricação da minha prensa para cutelaria. (Congratulations, excellent work. It will serve as inspiration for making my hydraulic press for cutlery.)
Very nice - well done
That's exactly what I want to build! (Don't want to spend the money on a Coal Iron press)
Do you have a parts list with manufacture and model numbers? I want to make sure that "this ram" will work with "this pump" and "this valve" etc.
Thanks.
Sorry, I don't have a parts list. I ordered my pump and valve as a kit off of eBay and I bought my cylinder from Magister Hydraulics. Everything else was bought from local suppliers in my area. If your worried about compatibility of pump's, cylinders, etc. you can go to the manufacturers web site and get the specs for the equipment your looking to buy and make sure everything is compatible or not. The main thing to remember is that you don't want to pair a pump that will exceed the maximum rated pressure of the hoses and cylinder your gong to use. Buying a pump and valve as a kit will ensure the valve and pump are compatible and rated correctly. If your not sure what your doing I highly recommend talking to someone from the manufacturer to determine if your proposed setup is safe or not.
Solid advice. Thank you very much. @@MichaelJonesCustomKnives
Really Really cool Press !
Could you tell me approximately how much it cost to purchase everything it took to build this unit ? Thanks in advance.
Hi Keith
It cost approximately $900 in parts (cylinder, pump, detent valve, motor, suction hose, electric motor, wiring, etc..) and maybe another $2-300 in steel. I had some steel left over from some other projects that I used. Mind you that steel prices along with everything else has gone up so overall cost might be higher than what I am stating here. Hope this helps.
Michael
Thanks for the reply for sure. That’s not as bad as I had figured. But unfortunately I got rid of all my steel and pipe after I retired and we moved. That the way things go but still that’s worth building. You did a class act craftsman work on your assy. Well done Sir.
@@keithmarshall62 If you got a steel supply yard near you, they may have a "cut-off" section for partial sticks of steel. There's one near me and the cut-offs go for pennies on the dollar compared to the full length stuff. Keep an eye on the supply and go check it frequently, and you may be able to source material cheaper than others.
Simple and effective!!
Best DIY design I've seen yet !! I am wanting to follow your lead and copy your design for myself !! can you tell me what size dies you are using ? I'm also wondering how wide of a billet you normally do with your press ? would you be willing to give with and depth dimensions ? I know you state approximately 2"between 2x2 supports how wide is that ? I'm think 12-16' wide ?? such a nice design I appreciate you sharing it with everyone !!!
Thanks for the feedback. The dies are built on 1/4" thick, 3"x6" plate steel. The flat die in the video is 1" thick by 2"x4" and welded to the 3x6 plate. All of my dies are built on this size plate. My typical billet size is 1.5" wide and anywhere from 4 to 8 inches in length depending on what I am making at the time. I usually use 1.5" wide billets so I can pass it between the uprights on the side when setting my initial forge welds. The overall width of the press frame is 12 inches. The top and bottom plates are 1" thick, by 6' x 12". I used the same size for the cross member at the top where the cylinder attaches, and for the cross member with the die attachments at the end of the ram. The large cross member on the bottom that holds the bottom die is 2" thick by 6" x 12". If you look at the pictures at the end of video you can see how I put the press together. Hope that helps.
This is a great source of information. Thank you. I have many questions regarding calculations of motor speed, pump capabilities, hose psi, cylinder diameter, and stroke. I have a press with a very large cylinder in diameter fairly short in stroke and running off of 110 AC 2 hp motor capabilities. The stroke is very slow and I need to speed it up and would like to know how to determine appropriate and safe changes. Do you have any recommendations for reference material or calculations? Thanks in advance!
Taylor, thanks for the question. I am not a fluid mechanics\hydraulics expert by any means. I did my own research on the limits and pressures of the equipment I purchased to make this press. Hydraulics can be very dangerous due to the very high pressures involved. I recommend that you reach out to the manufacturer of the equipment you have to get their recommendations on how to configure or speed up your hydraulic cylinder. Serious damage or injury can happen if you exceed the speciation's\pressures that your cylinder, pump, and hoses are rated for. If your wanting more speed than what your cylinder is rated for you may need to consider redesigning your configuration to meet your requirements. Hope this helps.
Michael
Thanks!
Im about to build one!
Good luck, if you have any questions I will try to answer.
On those auto return valves, do they have a way to make it Manuel return so you could use the press as a vise if needed?
The auto return is a safety feature that is set at the factory at 3000 PSI to prevent blowing hoses or damaging the pump and cylinder. It is adjustable but I personally would not change it. High pressure hydraulic oil is dangerous. With that said, I use my press like a vise all the time to hold pieces in place. I simply apply down pressure until it locks in place and release the valve handle. It will not move unless I release it or reach the 3000 PSI max pressure. So the cylinder will stay in place until you decide to apply more pressure or release it.
@@MichaelJonesCustomKnives oh, I missunderstood the definition of auto return. Seen some presses where the cylinder retracts soon as you let go of the lever, which could be handy at times, and a P.I.T.A. other times.
In this setup the cylinder does not auto retract when you let go of the handle, the cylinder will stay put. It only auto retracts when the 3000 PSI limit is reached.
Any braces under the table? The 2" x 2" frame is supported by what?
At the end of the video I included some photos of the cart frame. There are 2 square tubing crossmembers welded into the cart frame and the press frame is bolted to that. Look at the video at the 13:03 timestamp and you will see some photos of what I am describing.
what is your cost of parts ?
Dan - I answered a similar question about cost to build this press in the comments below. Please look at @keithmarshall62 question in the comments and my reply. Thanks
Building me another as we speak