i just did this job and it took me 5 hours, i can 100% say i learned so much and i am able to give tips to help out others who will be doing this by themselves, first of all, watch another video of this from a youtuber named "Hands On Dismantler" his method is what i had to use and he states the reasons of why its the better way(if you dont have a hose remover shown in this video) , why do i also believe its the better way? because removing the hoses from only the filter is nearly freaking impossible let alone using grips to loosen and move the hose clamps, theres no freaking space and you can only use one hand. Heres my TIPS [Extra tools needed]: -BUY hose removers or hose separators (seen in this video) -buy many different pliers, all kinds, long pliers, curved pliers, straight pliers, 90 degree long pliers are a MUST!!!!! i cant stress this enough - buy extra hose clamps of many sizes( you will most likely drop one from the breather hose and the one going to the airbox -buy WD40 to loosen filter hoses since they are brittle and hard -strongly recommend to just go ahead and buy new hoses of the one we are going to be removing just incase. -lights many lights, i had 2 of them fail me today due to having them on for 4 hours, they failed me when putting the new filter on, i had to use my phones flashlight to complete this job in the dark diyers you will struggle, this is a very very very hard job if youve never done it before. [Job Tips]: - remove the cowl cover and the metal thing under the plastic cowl cover, this will make removing that god damn airbox wayyy easier, i removed it without the cowl cover but had to remove cowl cover along with metal cover to be able to reinstall the stupid airbox back in, its nearly impossible to reinstall without removing cowl cover. - use PB blaster, oil or WD40 in that dumb clip thing that is to the left of the airbox in order to slide it out easier and remove the airbox. - before removing the ATF filter from its housing, leave the upper atf filter hose connected to the filter and instead follow the hose rubber towards you and remove it from the metal line instead, use WD40 first, then with pliers carefully twist it a bit then spray wd 40 again and twist it while pulling and it will easily come loose, once loose remove it, after that now we can remove the atf filter bracket to free it from housing(its still attached by hose in rear) - now here is where it gets hard, theres 2 ways to do this, if you have a hose puller tool (shown in this video) since the filter is now free and you can move it to see the rear hose, you can use the pliers to loosen and move the hose clams and use the hose puller to disconnect the rubber hose from the filter, ORRRR if you dont have a hose puller, follow the "Hands On Dismantler" method, follow the rubber hose and youll see its attached to a metal line that is shaped like a U. same principle, use pliers to remove the hose clamp and use the filter to twist it slightly clockwise and counter clockwise until the hose gets loose" DO NOT PULL ON THE FILTER" if you damage the line shaped like a "U" you will need to replace it, however i observed that you can twist the filter which still has the rear hose connected and it should loosen up the rubber hose from the U line, once loosen up stick your arm in there and gently pull on it but be careful not to pull too hard on the U line, its strong but lets play it safe( or buy a replacement, doesnt seem hard to replace) - at this point you will have the ATF filter out but will still have the front and back hoses attached to it , now its easier to remove them since the part is out of the car. Re assembly tips: - you can install the front hose first onto the filter but do not install the rear one yet( basically only install the hose on the filter that will be facing the front headlight) - first install the rear hose without the filter into the U line, then use the pliers to place clamps back on. - now the filter should have the front hose attached to it, attach it to the metal line in the front so its held by the hose to prevent it from being dropped behind the transmission when its time to install the rear hose( dont place clamps on yet) - once the filter is connected to the front metal line, place the filter in its housing without putting bracket on in order to hold it in place and make it easier to slide in and connect rear hose( getting to use both hands is impossible so this is why i say place filter in housing so its held by it to connect the rear hose onto the filter, or else as you try to connect the rear hose the filter would just be moving away since nothing is holding it) - once you get the rear hose connected to the filter, now you can then disconnect the front hose from the front metal line again in order to push the filter to the side so you can re attach the rear hose clamps back on and adjust the hose if needed. -boom we are almost there, now we simply reconnect the front hose to the metal line and place the clamp back on and now we can push the filter into the housing and place the bracket back on and tighten it with the 10mm bolt. - now since we have the cowl cover off, we can reinstall the airbox much much easier and re assemble everything and BOOM we are done. i hope this method can help make this job a lot easier for you guys
@@khoavu1341 this could’ve helped me. And I agree. I’ve never done it and finished the job in about an hour by following the video method. If I had fat hands or wrists, it would’ve been tough because my filter was more difficult to get to than the car in the video. But definitely not a 4-5 hour job considering all I’ve ever done before is change my oil and taken off my door panels
@@mslucy7230The filter has a direction of flow. If install the backwards it may still work but certainly not as intended. I've seen people take them off look at them say they're good and put them back on backwards which flushes all of the contaminants back into the transmission.
I've finally done it a few days ago, it took me 12 hours 😮. For people who want to minimize moving those stupid clips you could remove the inlet hose by removing 2 bolts, but when reinstalling *DON'T* forget to reinstall the 2 crush washers that goes with the golden big bolt if you go this route, one between the hose and transmission and the other one between the top of the hose and the bolt (you can slide it on the bolt and install).. refer to the repair manual if confused. I learned this the hard way finding that it was leaking from it (no damage thankfully) and seeing it on the ground under the car. Preferably you'd have a replacement washer but I don't have one also note the transmission drain bolt washer doesn't fit (too big), so don't loose it!
everyone should be very careful when removing the hoses. I tried removing the rubber hose from the pipe that comes out of the transmission and bent the steel pipe in the process without realizing it. I was able to slowly bend the pipe back into place and VERY LUCKY it did not kink or break. I am not sure if the pipe is steel or aluminum but Honda does list a part number in case you break yours make sure a dealer nearby has it in stock 25920-RPC-000. also probably just a good idea to simply remove the hose directly attached to the filter canister itself to avoid potentially bending and breaking the hard line altogether!
Did the exact same thing just now but i pulled it closer to me slighting to get the pliers a better angle of attack on the clamp and then just bent it back when done
Did this on a 2009 Civic. This job was a 10 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. If you can outsource this to a mechanic, do it. The removal and reinstallation of the filter, especially the rear spring clamp, was the hardest part of the job followed by the replacement of the filter bracket that was nightmarish. There is no room to get both of your hands on the parts that you have to manipulate. No plier has jaws wide enough to deal with those spring clips. Use the trick in this video or do not even attempt this filter change. I had partial success with a pair of needle nose pliers. It took me at least 1.5 hours to remove the filter and get it back into place. It was hellish. My back is killing me. If you are going to do this, when you remove the spring clamp above the Phillips screw, put a tie wrap on it otherwise you are going to lose it during the filter box removal or reinstallation. Both the removal and replacement of the filter box was also a nightmare. I would pull the battery after you struggle to get the box back in to place. Do not buy the supposed "genuine filters" on Amazon or eBay, they are junk knockoffs and they do not have the bypass that is critical if the filter gets dirty. Buy the Beck/Arnley 0440434 on Amazon. $19. Again, do yourself a favor, and hand this off to a good mechanic with a lift and long thin arms. Do not do this project unless you want to ruin an entire afternoon, it is absolutely not worth the aggrivation. Walk away and your future self will thank me.
if you are going to replace the transmission filter and have to remove airbox assy, you should probably clean your throttle body while airbox is off since removal of airbox kinda sucks. I had an issue where my honda would stall occasionally while stopping/turning, the throttle body was dirty and restricting airflow around the throttle blade causing the stalling issues. runs great once again after cleaning throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor and installed new air filter while i was at it.
Great suggestion , I should have mentioned that, I appreciate your wisdom , thanks for adding this in the comments, I’ll add a link to the throttle body video
That’s the very first job I did when my wife bought her 2006 Honda odyssey RB1 and i also changed the transmission fluid,what a difference it made to how the transmission operated. It was a mongrel job but so worth it.
For some reason my dumb mechanic didn't install my filter when I did a drain and fill..... If I bring the filter back to him to install, does he have to drain all of the fluid again?
I really like Danny and he really comes across as knowing his stuff BUT I have learned that sometimes the best thing to come out of his videos is that you realize this is not a job that you want to tackle. Such was the case with his video on changing the inline transmission filter on my 2008 Honda Civic. For those of you struggling with this same issue, keep in mind that Danny’s high quality camera shots make it appear that you have easier access and more working room that you actually have. I was surprised once I got the air filter box off, realizing the inline filter was only partially exposed and actually was in the back, facing the firewall. I have a pretty fair background in doing my own repairs and it might be that I simply have less patience these days but be aware, this job is a pain in the ass. I even removed the filter box a second time after giving it some thought and watching the video again. As much as I hated to give it up, suffice it to say, not spending any more time on it. Good luck on which course you choose to take. Blake
I just did this job yesterday, similar to your way but i also disconnected the heater hose bracket (one 10mm). Had a tough time with the air box but finally got it and disconnected the hoses at the outer ends from the filter. I think Being in a cold weather climate makes a huge difference in how things work and don't as far as doing some jobs like this one. I had to use a pick tool to get the hoses loose , then use a hose removal pliers like the one you use here. Struggled with the original hose clamps and afterwards i think i would've used some worm gear type of hose clamps for a much easier job of adjusting them during reassembly. I didn't see anyone else doing this type of clamp change on youtube videos so i kept the old clamps, but if there ever is a next time i would do it and also recommend changing them for anyone trying this job. Actually i don't understand why no one else did change the clamp type themselves. As far as photography you win hands down but I think its also a help to tell people where they may have difficulty and what can help with that. The video is very clean but kind of too clean, in a sense. but its the one that got me started on this so thanks for the schooling.
I don’t have a bunch of experience with CVT transmission, 30k would be my first fluid change and probably every 30k after that unless you’re doing hard driving conditions, filter I would follow factory manual scheduling, make sure you use Hondas specific fluid for that transmission, great you’re talking care of your transmission
Great video and thank you.. by the way, as far as those clamps concerned, you can always change to a different type of clamp with a hex head screw so that you can use a socket and ratchet to tighten the clamp, which is what I did.
Just did this. Thanks for video. Getting at these clamps was very difficult on 12 civic with 125k ( never been done). Very little room and can barely see what your doing. I am hoping to never have to do it again lol
Just finished this job. After accounting for Ive never done this before. And the absolute mother shucker the lower hose clamp was. And the fact I lost a bolt and had to get a close enough at Home Depot and the air box was very stubborn. I think 12 and 1/2 hours was acceptable. It was done right and works well. Please get the better hose clamp pliers. Please do that favor for yourself.
Thumbs up!!! that was great. never new the filter is that easy to change. was already thinking of taking my vehicle to the mechanic who might even worsen its state.
Excellent video outstanding camera placement for the filter removal. The only tip is to buy a 3-foot section of high pressure hose and move the filter up onto the firewall or to the top of the motor where you can access it without removing the air box every time. I do my changes annually and it only takes about 10 minutes total.
Wow you really babying it lol. I've owned my civic since 122k miles. Had the fluid flushed at maybe like 150k miles and haven't changed it since. I have 292k miles now lol 😅. Definitely gonna change the fluid and filter now tho
@@andrewk8636 this is in a vehicle that is used primarily as a winter car in New England. About a 90 mi round trip to work and back at around 85 mph so I generally do the transmission fluid every season for good measure. It's still bulletproof. Wish this thing warmed up better in the winter though.
just did this job yesterday, took about 2 hours. its not just the hose retainers that are troublesome, but also the fact that you cant see them while struggling to remove the retainers and most of your view being blocked by the coolant hoses. had to re-watch this video because i got the orientation wrong and also managed to somehow bend the lower pipe. what i did was remove the hoses from the steel pipes not the filter. maybe if i was doing it from below, i would have done danny's approach. oh, and putting the retainers back, i used a cable tie to hold down the pliers that is keeping the retainers loose.
Many of us wouldn’t have known there was a transmission filter there in the first place, as honda did not bother to include it on the maintenance list, so thank you @dannysdiygarage for your efforts. 😉
Just did mine, dealership gave me the wrong washer for the drain plug, ended up giving me washers for the engine oil plug when I specifically said transmission plug. Hopefully it doesn't leak lol just re used the old one. Thanks for the vid
Jobs like this always feels like I'm going to break something in the way to get to the primary thing I'm supposed to work on. Usually its a silly plastic flex tab or something else. Over the years I learned that the best way is to go slow and think critically every time I get into a spot that needs finess, instead of thinking "this is stuck better yank it out".
Great informative video, thank you. I have just one comment. At 1:18 You should disconnect the negative terminal of the battery 1st, if you start by the positive terminal and your wrench touches the car's body, you will have a short-circuit.
A bit out of topic, for Honda Accord, the best way to take out the inside clamp is approaching from on the passenger side. There is no room from the driver side even with hose clamping tools.
Thank you. Where would the TCC solenoid be on the honda civic 06-11. I have the p0741 code and no mechanic wants to tell me where it is. They go straight to “Just rebuild it.”
We need your technic how to the lower housing back, attaching to the pipes, then screw down. It’s been a struggle of mine but was to do it safely, I guess. Overall the video is great!!! Thanks!
I went to honda dealer and the honda guy I talk with said you don't need to change it just regularly drain and refill the tranny. I'm thinking of changing the atf filter now.
@@henness3yy Well, they're wrong. What is the purpose of installing filter in the first place??? To capture metal shavings. And it should be replaced as scheduled... otherwise, it will clogged up.
This video shows how to change the in-line filter, is there also a filter in the transmission pan too ? (I have the 2008 Honda Civic 2.0 K20 series I-VTECH)
Thanks for the video! I have a 2012 honda fit sport. Im pretty sure my filter is leaking and the civic and fits are close enough I think I have a good enough idea to do what I need to do.
Thanks for this video. I have two Civics, 2001 and 2005. I had both cars' transmission replaced with better & upgraded version that corrected the faulty 7th generation transmission. However, they gave me this plastic filter which I dislike. I just found out that Civics from 2006 thru 2015 have this OEM filter that I didn't know about. So, I bought one and replaced it on my Civics which is so much easier to access since the location is right next to the radiator. My question is which end of that filter in the video is flowed upward or downward?
some great tips! especially hose clip clamp/vise grips. thanks man to make video better you could have icon on the screen of socket sizes and make and model no of special tools like hose pipe removal tool.
Great video, Do you know if my Honda civic tourer 2014 1.6 i-dtech diesel has a transmission filter and if so where located? any help much apprichiated. I cant find a single video??
I changed the transmission fluid on my daughters 2013 Civic today following your other video, pretty simple and thanks for posting that! As for the filter box, I unhooked the 3 tabs for the air box, opened it enough to remove the air filter, removed a screw in the front and on the right side and it was 90% loose, but there was something else I couldn't locate that was holding the airbox in place and keeping it from easily coming out like in your video...seemed like it was in the back where I couldn't see or feel. You have any idea what I could be missing?
Great question, it doesn’t make a difference when you change it, the filter is higher then the transmission, so minimal fluid is lost either way, just make sure you adjust your fluid level when the job is completed
i have a CR-Z CVT approaching 30,000. Will be doing the fluid and this filter. My question is, how often would you suggest to change this in-line external filter and how often to change the internal filter? The fluid? The numbers are all over the place to where I could see changing the fluid every 15-30k, the in-line filter every time/every other time the fluid is changed, and the internal filter every 30-60k. Honda would have you change either filter never; I think the fluid every 30k. Thought I read the designer of the CVT said a lower number than that. I just want to do the best I can for it. That isn't even getting into changing it cold to get all the settlement vs changing it warm; or for CVTs changing 3x with a drive in between; then I could ask, the first one cold, the second one hot with a filter change and the third one after a tank of fuel with or without a filter change? etc. The noise of the internet can be overwhelming. This video is evidence that the internet can make a job sound more tedious and troublesome than a mechanic can show you in a calm demeanor. Greatly appreciated!
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Hello, nice work sir. When I went to local car service shop, they changed automatic transmission oil on my 2013 honda civic, but refused to change transmission fluid filter, as they believed it was not replaceable part on the model. So, what do you suggest me to do?
I have a 2014 civic is at 156K miles and never changed any of the filters. I bought the tiny round orange one thats on the side of the trans but not installed yet. So there are 3 filters for the trans? Dealer told me there were no filters to change. I Did the fluid change every 30K miles. Are changing all these filters really necessary. I dont think most do.
Thank you Sir for your informative videos…🙏🏼….The only thing I didn’t understand is …it seems easy with the Fat tip plier that has been used to remove those clips from hoses to pull filter out……Then Why …like you said..it becomes difficult with same plier to reinstall those clips back on hoses…!! ….please explain….is it mandatory to make tool from scrap metal….or is there any other alternative for those clamps ??!!
I’ve owned a 2005 Corolla and a 2009 civic for over 10 years, transmission has been solid in both cars, from my experience both transmissions are reliable, but they do need to have the fluid changed, as far as which is more reliable, I could only guess
This is a great question. Most American made transmissions fail due to age and heat doing damage to the seals or lack of maintenance. Changing the transmission fluid on regular schedule of once a year or every 30 thousand miles helps with or without the filter replacement. The transmissions made for the small cars designed in Japan seem to last forever if well serviced I am not sure why.
Hi Danny. Very well made clip and wit useful informations. I have a Honda CRV 2007 2.0 engine automatic, and I would like to ask you if my transmission filter is on the same location like on your car. Thank you
Thank you Danny, the engine layout of your Honda looks the same as mine, and in the exact position of your filter there is one who looks identical with yours. So I gues I will disconnect it and if there is red fluid inside then is definitely the transmission filter😊. Thank you for your videos and your reply. I wish you a good day.
Hi, Thank You for this video, very informative. Question..... That this also aplly to a 2012 Honda Civic GX (Natural Gas)?? And... why in Honda Parts department told me that the transmission oil filter is inside the transmission itself? I removed the air filter housing and I have located the transmission filter but. Honda dealer got confused me. I appreciate you. Thank You!!
I went through the same thing, also a 30 year Honda technician told me that the only filter was the one in the transmission, my Honda Element also has this filter ’same part number” it exists and should be replaced as maintenance,
The engine he's working on is a R18, in the 8th and 9th gen Civic DX, LX, and EX. According to Honda, this is a non-serviceable part, meaning, it lasts the life of the car, not necessary to replace. Someday, I'll do it. Currently have 200k+ miles on my 2006, no issues so far.
All looked pretty easy, except am still working on trying to get the bracket to line up with the 10mm bolt hole, the bracket is like 2mm towards the firewall, feels like the filter is hitting on some thing. Thoughts?
@@dannysdiygarage Hi Danny. I finally undid the 2 coolant hoses to unbolt the entire bracket. Filter somehow lined right up in the bracket and put it all back together. :-) I do wish on some of your video's you would mention how long it take - give or take as an estimate. Thanks for all you do!
@@dannysdiygarage Possibly, 1-2-3. I replaced the A/C expansion valve a few weeks ago. Not too bad, but the one 7-8mm bolt (behind the first vent that you pull out, it's on the back side) was crazy hard to get back in/socket on. Lucky I had a flex/spring screw driver to get it in. The 2 bolts that hold the blower on the firewall ( the right side one). I ended up going to the store and getting a 12-15 inch extension. So maybe on some projects talk about how long a screw driver or extension bar/tool is needed. Keep up the good work!
awesome tutorial - but a couple questions after I tried it. my air box has the two 10mm bolts yours does, but it also seems to have a bolt with a rounded oval head holding on the air box behind the first bolt you took off...so right next to the engine. I didn't see you take one off in that position, but it does look like there is a tab on the air box bottom that sticks out much like mine and there is something there. can you tell me if you had something in that position? so in the10 or 11o'lock position of the air box when you are looking at the engine compt from front of car. I reassembled mine when I could not get that 3rd bolt off and reconnected the air sensor(and got a new air filter since it was a bit dirty) and my check engine light is on. I think it has to do something with that air box sensor or maybe an air leak. I changed my oil at the same time but that all checks good...I may go get a code reader in the morning but curious if you may have any guesses...thanks!
@@ShyamKumar-cp5mu Thanks, this was my concern as well. I will look see on my 2007 and 2005 Honda Civics. I bought 3 civics but the 2004 was sold by family.
Tx for an informative & excellent video. I have a HONDA BRV SUV. In 2019, My mechanic suggested using Shell S1 ATF TASA , which is automotive transmission, power steering and hydraulic oil mainly used for heavy-duty vehicle in my HONDA BRV, which has a CVT transmission. It was changed 3 yrs ago and have had no problem with my car, in fact excellent faultless performance. But now it turns out that I should have used the Honda recommended Idemitsu CVTF Type H2 is specifically formulated for CVT in all Honda vehicles and my warranty is NULL and VOID. Want to know if ATF oil indeed damages a CVT transmission
Honda engineers spend millions developing what works best for the best performance, I always go with Honda recommended fluid and parts for the best performance, but I do not know your answer, just my thoughts
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks you Sir,, Just wanted to confirm if using an ATF in a CVT will eventually result in the death of the transmission.. I completely understand using strictly Honda recommended stuff, however the period was COVID, when garages were hardly open and imported CVT oils difficult to procure in India. Hence as a workaround an experienced mechanic suggested the high quality Shell ATF, which has caused no damage whatsoever, in fact my Honda SUV transmission is smooth as silk, Only that I have lost my warranty now. So should I cut my losses, flush the existing oil and put the Honda recommended OEM Idemitsu CVT fluid, I have only done 15,000 kms and I believe a transmission oil requires a change only after 50,000 kms .
Good video. Some people make mistakes in the direction of the filter. They put the fat side down. Originally it was up as in your video. My oil change goto service centre did that. They did say it doesn't matter much though they flipped it later. Also i changed O.E.M dw1 ATF. I didn't go for the cheaper DEXRON III by korean brands they were recommending to me. What you say. Can Dexron III be substituted for Honda DW1 ATF?
Just looking at the 2013 Civic-LX I have the job looks a lot more complicated, based on the location of the filter - the 8 min video was great - but I'm guessing this could be 2 hours or more. Getting to the filter and seeing what your doing is the wild card under the front cowing shield. Not sure if you come underneath the vehicle if you can even get t it after removing the plastic splash shields. What is interesting HONDA service doesn't recommend changing this filter unless you are changing the transmission. I drain and fill to level performed on the transmission at 20k miles religiously should keep the tranny humming along just fine. I'm going to dig into it because I just purchased a clean high milage Civic that was used for a daily highway commute. I like to do all the mechanical maintenance items when I buy a used vehicle, this was on my list but I may just pass if I think it is going to be 5 knuckle buster job with frustration. I'll dig into it when the weather warms up a bit.
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So in what order should I do it if I am trying to put that new trans filter and also doing a drain and fill. Which one should I do first? I just dont wanna mess anything in the car
When I change my transmission filter I get under the car to easily reach the bottom hose clamp and remove bottom hose then remove the clamp that holds the filter in place. Just wanted to share so that maybe it helps someone else? I did find something in your video that I will try next time though. Thanks for the video!
Run the car until it’s at operating temperature, put the car in drive for a few seconds then reverse for a few seconds, then back into park, shut the car off wait 60 seconds and check the fluid, wipe the dip stick it a few time, it should read between the marks each time you check it, if not add more fluid and check again until a good reading on every check, hopefully this is clear
I did this job, yes it was kinda of a pain without 45 degree pliers. But i didnt put the bracket back on the new filter, its kinda dangling is that ok?
The Honda Civic Transmission has a screen that in older revisions would clog but Honda has solved that problem on the newer automatic Transmissons. It is major surgery to replace or clean the internal screen and only the most skilled do it yourself or professional transmission person would even attempt. I have seen videos on the Transmisson screen and other repairs.
@@dennissytsma3561 me and my nephew did both the trans cooler filter and the pan filter in his 2016 Honda fit in about 3 hours give or take. Was no big deal.
i just did this job and it took me 5 hours, i can 100% say i learned so much and i am able to give tips to help out others who will be doing this by themselves, first of all, watch another video of this from a youtuber named "Hands On Dismantler" his method is what i had to use and he states the reasons of why its the better way(if you dont have a hose remover shown in this video) , why do i also believe its the better way? because removing the hoses from only the filter is nearly freaking impossible let alone using grips to loosen and move the hose clamps, theres no freaking space and you can only use one hand.
Heres my TIPS
[Extra tools needed]:
-BUY hose removers or hose separators (seen in this video)
-buy many different pliers, all kinds, long pliers, curved pliers, straight pliers, 90 degree long pliers are a MUST!!!!! i cant stress this enough
- buy extra hose clamps of many sizes( you will most likely drop one from the breather hose and the one going to the airbox
-buy WD40 to loosen filter hoses since they are brittle and hard
-strongly recommend to just go ahead and buy new hoses of the one we are going to be removing just incase.
-lights many lights, i had 2 of them fail me today due to having them on for 4 hours, they failed me when putting the new filter on, i had to use my phones flashlight to complete this job in the dark
diyers
you will struggle, this is a very very very hard job if youve never done it before.
[Job Tips]:
- remove the cowl cover and the metal thing under the plastic cowl cover, this will make removing that god damn airbox wayyy easier, i removed it without the cowl cover but had to remove cowl cover along with metal cover to be able to reinstall the stupid airbox back in, its nearly impossible to reinstall without removing cowl cover.
- use PB blaster, oil or WD40 in that dumb clip thing that is to the left of the airbox in order to slide it out easier and remove the airbox.
- before removing the ATF filter from its housing, leave the upper atf filter hose connected to the filter and instead follow the hose rubber towards you and remove it from the metal line instead, use WD40 first, then with pliers carefully twist it a bit then spray wd 40 again and twist it while pulling and it will easily come loose, once loose remove it, after that now we can remove the atf filter bracket to free it from housing(its still attached by hose in rear)
- now here is where it gets hard, theres 2 ways to do this, if you have a hose puller tool (shown in this video)
since the filter is now free and you can move it to see the rear hose, you can use the pliers to loosen and move the hose clams and use the hose puller to disconnect the rubber hose from the filter, ORRRR if you dont have a hose puller, follow the "Hands On Dismantler" method, follow the rubber hose and youll see its attached to a metal line that is shaped like a U.
same principle, use pliers to remove the hose clamp and use the filter to twist it slightly clockwise and counter clockwise until the hose gets loose" DO NOT PULL ON THE FILTER" if you damage the line shaped like a "U" you will need to replace it, however i observed that you can twist the filter which still has the rear hose connected and it should loosen up the rubber hose from the U line, once loosen up stick your arm in there and gently pull on it but be careful not to pull too hard on the U line, its strong but lets play it safe( or buy a replacement, doesnt seem hard to replace)
- at this point you will have the ATF filter out but will still have the front and back hoses attached to it , now its easier to remove them since the part is out of the car.
Re assembly tips:
- you can install the front hose first onto the filter but do not install the rear one yet( basically only install the hose on the filter that will be facing the front headlight)
- first install the rear hose without the filter into the U line, then use the pliers to place clamps back on.
- now the filter should have the front hose attached to it, attach it to the metal line in the front so its held by the hose to prevent it from being dropped behind the transmission when its time to install the rear hose( dont place clamps on yet)
- once the filter is connected to the front metal line, place the filter in its housing without putting bracket on in order to hold it in place and make it easier to slide in and connect rear hose( getting to use both hands is impossible so this is why i say place filter in housing so its held by it to connect the rear hose onto the filter, or else as you try to connect the rear hose the filter would just be moving away since nothing is holding it)
- once you get the rear hose connected to the filter, now you can then disconnect the front hose from the front metal line again in order to push the filter to the side so you can re attach the rear hose clamps back on and adjust the hose if needed.
-boom we are almost there, now we simply reconnect the front hose to the metal line and place the clamp back on and now we can push the filter into the housing and place the bracket back on and tighten it with the 10mm bolt.
- now since we have the cowl cover off, we can reinstall the airbox much much easier and re assemble everything and BOOM we are done.
i hope this method can help make this job a lot easier for you guys
I appreciate you taking the time to share this information to help others, such a kind gesture, thank you so much ❤
I’m looking at doing this myself. Very helpful info. I appreciate you. I love how humans naturally feel an urge to help others. Even strangers 🙂
You can easily remove and connect the atf filter by removing the rear hose from underneath the car. No need to for all the extra steps.
@@khoavu1341 this could’ve helped me. And I agree. I’ve never done it and finished the job in about an hour by following the video method. If I had fat hands or wrists, it would’ve been tough because my filter was more difficult to get to than the car in the video. But definitely not a 4-5 hour job considering all I’ve ever done before is change my oil and taken off my door panels
@@khoavu1341please explain, do you have video showing this way?
The filter is directional. Don't put it on backwards
The top is upward, right?
I don't understand. He did something wrong what min? Could you explain please?
@@mslucy7230The filter has a direction of flow. If install the backwards it may still work but certainly not as intended. I've seen people take them off look at them say they're good and put them back on backwards which flushes all of the contaminants back into the transmission.
😂
I put mine diagonally
I've finally done it a few days ago, it took me 12 hours 😮. For people who want to minimize moving those stupid clips you could remove the inlet hose by removing 2 bolts, but when reinstalling *DON'T* forget to reinstall the 2 crush washers that goes with the golden big bolt if you go this route, one between the hose and transmission and the other one between the top of the hose and the bolt (you can slide it on the bolt and install).. refer to the repair manual if confused. I learned this the hard way finding that it was leaking from it (no damage thankfully) and seeing it on the ground under the car. Preferably you'd have a replacement washer but I don't have one also note the transmission drain bolt washer doesn't fit (too big), so don't loose it!
Those are called crush washers
I thought 12 hours was a lot. That’s how long it took me. Mad respect for any novice that tackles this one
Perhaps, one of the best videos on car maintenance, very clear visuals and smart tips. Thanks.
Wow, thanks!
I have a Honda 2008 civic , this filter is new news for me , Thank you sir ..
You’re welcome 👍🏼
Ditto
everyone should be very careful when removing the hoses. I tried removing the rubber hose from the pipe that comes out of the transmission and bent the steel pipe in the process without realizing it. I was able to slowly bend the pipe back into place and VERY LUCKY it did not kink or break. I am not sure if the pipe is steel or aluminum but Honda does list a part number in case you break yours make sure a dealer nearby has it in stock 25920-RPC-000.
also probably just a good idea to simply remove the hose directly attached to the filter canister itself to avoid potentially bending and breaking the hard line altogether!
Outstanding tip, thanks for posting.
Did the exact same thing just now but i pulled it closer to me slighting to get the pliers a better angle of attack on the clamp and then just bent it back when done
Take it to a shop diyerr lol
Bent mine too 😂
In the service manual it is recommended to remove this
Did this on a 2009 Civic. This job was a 10 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. If you can outsource this to a mechanic, do it. The removal and reinstallation of the filter, especially the rear spring clamp, was the hardest part of the job followed by the replacement of the filter bracket that was nightmarish. There is no room to get both of your hands on the parts that you have to manipulate. No plier has jaws wide enough to deal with those spring clips. Use the trick in this video or do not even attempt this filter change. I had partial success with a pair of needle nose pliers. It took me at least 1.5 hours to remove the filter and get it back into place. It was hellish. My back is killing me. If you are going to do this, when you remove the spring clamp above the Phillips screw, put a tie wrap on it otherwise you are going to lose it during the filter box removal or reinstallation. Both the removal and replacement of the filter box was also a nightmare. I would pull the battery after you struggle to get the box back in to place. Do not buy the supposed "genuine filters" on Amazon or eBay, they are junk knockoffs and they do not have the bypass that is critical if the filter gets dirty. Buy the Beck/Arnley 0440434 on Amazon. $19. Again, do yourself a favor, and hand this off to a good mechanic with a lift and long thin arms. Do not do this project unless you want to ruin an entire afternoon, it is absolutely not worth the aggrivation. Walk away and your future self will thank me.
Thanks for sharing your experience and filter suggestion, I added it to the description
This is by far the best video I have seen so far. Thank you sir for this. You've just gained a subscriber.
Wow! What a great tutorial - clear, concise steps. The quality of the video is awesome, best I've ever seen on RUclips.
You’re awesome, thank you
if you are going to replace the transmission filter and have to remove airbox assy, you should probably clean your throttle body while airbox is off since removal of airbox kinda sucks. I had an issue where my honda would stall occasionally while stopping/turning, the throttle body was dirty and restricting airflow around the throttle blade causing the stalling issues. runs great once again after cleaning throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor and installed new air filter while i was at it.
Great suggestion , I should have mentioned that, I appreciate your wisdom , thanks for adding this in the comments, I’ll add a link to the throttle body video
That’s the very first job I did when my wife bought her 2006 Honda odyssey RB1 and i also changed the transmission fluid,what a difference it made to how the transmission operated. It was a mongrel job but so worth it.
I replaced this filter after the 3x transmission drain and fill change! This filter is very important to change.
I have a question for you, did you do your 3x transmission drain and fill all at once or at a decreased mileage interval ?
Thanks 👽
@@thomas0086 I changed it once a week and changed the filter on its last change.
Thanks for the input going to do a drain and fill tomorrow hopefully I can try to change the filter in about 3 weeks
For some reason my dumb mechanic didn't install my filter when I did a drain and fill..... If I bring the filter back to him to install, does he have to drain all of the fluid again?
I really like Danny and he really comes across as knowing his stuff BUT I have learned that sometimes the best thing to come out of his videos is that you realize this is not a job that you want to tackle.
Such was the case with his video on changing the inline transmission filter on my 2008 Honda Civic.
For those of you struggling with this same issue, keep in mind that Danny’s high quality camera shots make it appear that you have easier access and more working room that you actually have. I was surprised once I got the air filter box off, realizing the inline filter was only partially exposed and actually was in the back, facing the firewall.
I have a pretty fair background in doing my own repairs and it might be that I simply have less patience these days but be aware, this job is a pain in the ass. I even removed the filter box a second time after giving it some thought and watching the video again. As much as I hated to give it up, suffice it to say, not spending any more time on it. Good luck on which course you choose to take.
Blake
Yeah it's going to be a no from me dawg. Guess I'll just keep the old filter in there until my car dies lol
I just did this job yesterday, similar to your way but i also disconnected the heater hose bracket (one 10mm). Had a tough time with the air box but finally got it and disconnected the hoses at the outer ends from the filter. I think Being in a cold weather climate makes a huge difference in how things work and don't as far as doing some jobs like this one. I had to use a pick tool to get the hoses loose , then use a hose removal pliers like the one you use here. Struggled with the original hose clamps and afterwards i think i would've used some worm gear type of hose clamps for a much easier job of adjusting them during reassembly. I didn't see anyone else doing this type of clamp change on youtube videos so i kept the old clamps, but if there ever is a next time i would do it and also recommend changing them for anyone trying this job. Actually i don't understand why no one else did change the clamp type themselves. As far as photography you win hands down but I think its also a help to tell people where they may have difficulty and what can help with that. The video is very clean but kind of too clean, in a sense. but its the one that got me started on this so thanks for the schooling.
I don’t have a bunch of experience with CVT transmission, 30k would be my first fluid change and probably every 30k after that unless you’re doing hard driving conditions, filter I would follow factory manual scheduling, make sure you use Hondas specific fluid for that transmission, great you’re talking care of your transmission
Great video and thank you.. by the way, as far as those clamps concerned, you can always change to a different type of clamp with a hex head screw so that you can use a socket and ratchet to tighten the clamp, which is what I did.
Great additional information, thanks for adding this
Bad idea. Those clamps can’t expand.
Just did this. Thanks for video. Getting at these clamps was very difficult on 12 civic with 125k ( never been done). Very little room and can barely see what your doing. I am hoping to never have to do it again lol
Awesome, you made me laugh thanks for the comment
Just finished this job. After accounting for Ive never done this before. And the absolute mother shucker the lower hose clamp was. And the fact I lost a bolt and had to get a close enough at Home Depot and the air box was very stubborn. I think 12 and 1/2 hours was acceptable. It was done right and works well. Please get the better hose clamp pliers. Please do that favor for yourself.
Thumbs up!!! that was great. never new the filter is that easy to change. was already thinking of taking my vehicle to the mechanic who might even worsen its state.
I only recently learned of this filter and ordered it. This was so timely to find your video on how to get to the filter. Thanks!
Excellent video outstanding camera placement for the filter removal. The only tip is to buy a 3-foot section of high pressure hose and move the filter up onto the firewall or to the top of the motor where you can access it without removing the air box every time. I do my changes annually and it only takes about 10 minutes total.
appreciate you watching and adding your feedback
Wow you really babying it lol. I've owned my civic since 122k miles. Had the fluid flushed at maybe like 150k miles and haven't changed it since. I have 292k miles now lol 😅. Definitely gonna change the fluid and filter now tho
@@andrewk8636 this is in a vehicle that is used primarily as a winter car in New England. About a 90 mi round trip to work and back at around 85 mph so I generally do the transmission fluid every season for good measure. It's still bulletproof. Wish this thing warmed up better in the winter though.
just did this job yesterday, took about 2 hours. its not just the hose retainers that are troublesome, but also the fact that you cant see them while struggling to remove the retainers and most of your view being blocked by the coolant hoses. had to re-watch this video because i got the orientation wrong and also managed to somehow bend the lower pipe. what i did was remove the hoses from the steel pipes not the filter. maybe if i was doing it from below, i would have done danny's approach. oh, and putting the retainers back, i used a cable tie to hold down the pliers that is keeping the retainers loose.
Great tips, thanks for sharing
Many of us wouldn’t have known there was a transmission filter there in the first place, as honda did not bother to include it on the maintenance list, so thank you @dannysdiygarage for your efforts. 😉
@@benf3996appreciate your support ❤
Why don’t you have more views? This is awesome
Thanks 😊
Replaced didn’t notice a difference but peace of mind well worth it with new honda fluid
Pease of mind is perfect
Just did mine, dealership gave me the wrong washer for the drain plug, ended up giving me washers for the engine oil plug when I specifically said transmission plug. Hopefully it doesn't leak lol just re used the old one. Thanks for the vid
Trans drain plug and oil drain plug use same crush washers fyi
Another terrific instructional video from my man Danny. Thanks, young man👍
Jobs like this always feels like I'm going to break something in the way to get to the primary thing I'm supposed to work on. Usually its a silly plastic flex tab or something else. Over the years I learned that the best way is to go slow and think critically every time I get into a spot that needs finess, instead of thinking "this is stuck better yank it out".
So true, the older you get the smarter you become 👍🏼
Great informative video, thank you.
I have just one comment. At 1:18 You should disconnect the negative terminal of the battery 1st, if you start by the positive terminal and your wrench touches the car's body, you will have a short-circuit.
You’re correct, thanks for pointing that out for others
Great Safety tip.
A bit out of topic, for Honda Accord, the best way to take out the inside clamp is approaching from on the passenger side. There is no room from the driver side even with hose clamping tools.
I use Lucas transmission leak stoppers mixed in with the Honda transmission fluid on my high mileage 2003 civic lx.
Thank you. Where would the TCC solenoid be on the honda civic 06-11. I have the p0741 code and no mechanic wants to tell me where it is. They go straight to “Just rebuild it.”
watch this video ruclips.net/video/oKvd9gTmGfo/видео.htmlsi=GfvX5cBvinYukM1x
Good video ! 👍
You should mention how frequently this needs to be done for do it yourselfers !?
For what year and model?
Just found this video and it’s GREAT! You now have a new subscriber too. Thanks
Welcome aboard! Appreciate you
We need your technic how to the lower housing back, attaching to the pipes, then screw down. It’s been a struggle of mine but was to do it safely, I guess. Overall the video is great!!! Thanks!
i dont have a hose removal tool, so i went under the car and removed the bottom hose. thanks for the video it helped alot👍🏻
You’re welcome, thanks for commenting
$7.0 at wal mart hose removal pliers
I went to honda dealer and the honda guy I talk with said you don't need to change it just regularly drain and refill the tranny. I'm thinking of changing the atf filter now.
Thats exactly what my dealership told me but there’s different transmissions of different years that don’t need changing, research is best
@@henness3yy
Well, they're wrong. What is the purpose of installing filter in the first place??? To capture metal shavings. And it should be replaced as scheduled... otherwise, it will clogged up.
Excellent tips on removing and reinstalling the filter hose clamps. Thank you!
You’re welcome Robert
This video shows how to change the in-line filter, is there also a filter in the transmission pan too ? (I have the 2008 Honda Civic 2.0 K20 series I-VTECH)
Yes there is a filer in the transmission, but it’s replaced when a rebuild is necessary
Thanks for the video! I have a 2012 honda fit sport. Im pretty sure my filter is leaking and the civic and fits are close enough I think I have a good enough idea to do what I need to do.
Thanks for this video. I have two Civics, 2001 and 2005. I had both cars' transmission replaced with better & upgraded version that corrected the faulty 7th generation transmission. However, they gave me this plastic filter which I dislike. I just found out that Civics from 2006 thru 2015 have this OEM filter that I didn't know about. So, I bought one and replaced it on my Civics which is so much easier to access since the location is right next to the radiator.
My question is which end of that filter in the video is flowed upward or downward?
I don't have that answer
Excellent video! I was not going to change it, if it, was too difficult to get to.
It’s not an easy job, but it is doable
Definitely a weekend job
You need the hose removal pliers and patience
I also found it easier to remove the bottom hose from under the vehicle
Thanks for adding feedback
I tried to get to it from underneath. Just couldn’t get to it
Can you do the same with Honda Civic 2001-2005 because the filter is inside 50%, making it difficult to reach. Thank you for your advice, very useful.
some great tips! especially hose clip clamp/vise grips.
thanks man
to make video better you could have icon on the screen of socket sizes and make and model no of special tools like hose pipe removal tool.
Great feedback, I’ll add that in my next video, thanks
Thank you for the great video. Does this process still apply on the 2016 (Tenth generation) Civic?
You’re welcome
Great video, Do you know if my Honda civic tourer 2014 1.6 i-dtech diesel has a transmission filter and if so where located? any help much apprichiated.
I cant find a single video??
I changed the transmission fluid on my daughters 2013 Civic today following your other video, pretty simple and thanks for posting that!
As for the filter box, I unhooked the 3 tabs for the air box, opened it enough to remove the air filter, removed a screw in the front and on the right side and it was 90% loose, but there was something else I couldn't locate that was holding the airbox in place and keeping it from easily coming out like in your video...seemed like it was in the back where I couldn't see or feel.
You have any idea what I could be missing?
You can easily remove and connect the atf filter by removing the rear hose from underneath the car. There is no need for all the extra steps.
Might have missed it during this video but can you change the filter after u added the transmission fluid or do you have to do it while its drained??
Great question, it doesn’t make a difference when you change it, the filter is higher then the transmission, so minimal fluid is lost either way, just make sure you adjust your fluid level when the job is completed
i have a CR-Z CVT approaching 30,000. Will be doing the fluid and this filter. My question is, how often would you suggest to change this in-line external filter and how often to change the internal filter? The fluid?
The numbers are all over the place to where I could see changing the fluid every 15-30k, the in-line filter every time/every other time the fluid is changed, and the internal filter every 30-60k.
Honda would have you change either filter never; I think the fluid every 30k. Thought I read the designer of the CVT said a lower number than that.
I just want to do the best I can for it. That isn't even getting into changing it cold to get all the settlement vs changing it warm; or for CVTs changing 3x with a drive in between; then I could ask, the first one cold, the second one hot with a filter change and the third one after a tank of fuel with or without a filter change? etc.
The noise of the internet can be overwhelming.
This video is evidence that the internet can make a job sound more tedious and troublesome than a mechanic can show you in a calm demeanor. Greatly appreciated!
Nice. I will do this to my old Civic ! Great tutorial
Glad it helped
Hi, how many miles on the car when you did the first fluid change and how many when you did this change?
i have a 95 Civic manual. is there a transmission filter too?
The tool got my attention, thanks.
Thanks for commenting, 👍🏼
Buy via online this tool should help access 45 Degree Hose Clamp Plier, Automobile Water Pipe Plier, Angled Swivel Jaw Locking Car Water Pipe Fuel Coolant Clip, for Removal and Installation
Danny is there any dimension for the 10 mm socket extension thank you
What Honda year models does this procedure comply too?
Hello, nice work sir. When I went to local car service shop, they changed automatic transmission oil on my 2013 honda civic, but refused to change transmission fluid filter, as they believed it was not replaceable part on the model. So, what do you suggest me to do?
I’m pretty sure the 9th generation civic has one, call Honda parts and ask them to look up a external transmission cooler filter for your vehicle
@@dannysdiygarage thank you so much
03 crv that a diff setup on the civic it's underneath the crv I think?
I have a 2014 civic is at 156K miles and never changed any of the filters. I bought the tiny round orange one thats on the side of the trans but not installed yet. So there are 3 filters for the trans? Dealer told me there were no filters to change. I Did the fluid change every 30K miles. Are changing all these filters really necessary. I dont think most do.
My honda use same filter and is 140,000 km. I change my cvt fluid every 40,000 km. On how many KM should the filter be changed?
Thank you Sir for your informative videos…🙏🏼….The only thing I didn’t understand is …it seems easy with the Fat tip plier that has been used to remove those clips from hoses to pull filter out……Then Why …like you said..it becomes difficult with same plier to reinstall those clips back on hoses…!!
….please explain….is it mandatory to make tool from scrap metal….or is there any other alternative for those clamps ??!!
No it’s not mandatory, it just made it easier for me, my fingers are large, just an additional added help tip if it’s needed, good luck my friend
Awesome video!
Where did you purchase the transmission filter for your Honda civic?
I own 2008 Honda civic lx 1.8...
Thanks so much
Many thanks
Which automatic transmission is More reliable ? That Honda civic transmission or 10th generation Toyota Corolla the same year ?
I’ve owned a 2005 Corolla and a 2009 civic for over 10 years, transmission has been solid in both cars, from my experience both transmissions are reliable, but they do need to have the fluid changed, as far as which is more reliable, I could only guess
This is a great question. Most American made transmissions fail due to age and heat doing damage to the seals or lack of maintenance. Changing the transmission fluid on regular schedule of once a year or every 30 thousand miles helps with or without the filter replacement. The transmissions made for the small cars designed in Japan seem to last forever if well serviced I am not sure why.
Hi Danny.
Very well made clip and wit useful informations.
I have a Honda CRV 2007 2.0 engine automatic, and I would like to ask you if my transmission filter is on the same location like on your car.
Thank you
I’m not sure, I would assume so
Thank you Danny, the engine layout of your Honda looks the same as mine, and in the exact position of your filter there is one who looks identical with yours. So I gues I will disconnect it and if there is red fluid inside then is definitely the transmission filter😊.
Thank you for your videos and your reply.
I wish you a good day.
this will help out immensely, thank you for the video!
Excellent video, very clear and precise. Many thanks
Appreciate you taking the time to comment, you're welcome
very well explained in detail step by step thank you very much your help was very helpful👍👍👍👍
You’re welcome, thanks for commenting
I learned something New , Thumps up and i subscribed to this Amazing channel .
Thank you
Hi, Thank You for this video, very informative.
Question.....
That this also aplly to a 2012 Honda Civic GX (Natural Gas)??
And... why in Honda Parts department told me that the transmission oil filter is inside the transmission itself?
I removed the air filter housing and I have located the transmission filter but. Honda dealer got confused me.
I appreciate you. Thank You!!
I went through the same thing, also a 30 year Honda technician told me that the only filter was the one in the transmission, my Honda Element also has this filter ’same part number” it exists and should be replaced as maintenance,
@@dannysdiygarage along the same line, would you know if an 06 CR-V would have one? It doesn't show one on HondaPartsNow website. Thanx!
I do not have this information, sorry 😞
@@dannysdiygarage ruclips.net/video/0yQnnX3JXXg/видео.html
Just found this, for reference. Thanx for your quick response!
The engine he's working on is a R18, in the 8th and 9th gen Civic DX, LX, and EX. According to Honda, this is a non-serviceable part, meaning, it lasts the life of the car, not necessary to replace. Someday, I'll do it. Currently have 200k+ miles on my 2006, no issues so far.
Great video. Can I do this without draining the fluid first?
Absolutely
Do you have a cvt transmission in this car? I have a 2016 Honda Fit with CV. T i was wondering if I have that little filter somewhere hiding
Wow I didn't even know there was an outside trans oil filter. Though now I think my transmission is slipping but that's another issue. Lol.
All looked pretty easy, except am still working on trying to get the bracket to line up with the 10mm bolt hole, the bracket is like 2mm towards the firewall, feels like the filter is hitting on some thing. Thoughts?
I don’t have any answers, it should line up
@@dannysdiygarage Hi Danny. I finally undid the 2 coolant hoses to unbolt the entire bracket. Filter somehow lined right up in the bracket and put it all back together. :-) I do wish on some of your video's you would mention how long it take - give or take as an estimate. Thanks for all you do!
that’s a great idea, do you think I should also add a difficulty level?
@@dannysdiygarage Possibly, 1-2-3. I replaced the A/C expansion valve a few weeks ago. Not too bad, but the one 7-8mm bolt (behind the first vent that you pull out, it's on the back side) was crazy hard to get back in/socket on. Lucky I had a flex/spring screw driver to get it in. The 2 bolts that hold the blower on the firewall ( the right side one). I ended up going to the store and getting a 12-15 inch extension. So maybe on some projects talk about how long a screw driver or extension bar/tool is needed. Keep up the good work!
Hey Danny, is this the only filter on this generation? Is there one underneath the transmission pan if you take that off ?
This filter is on the 8th generation, the filter inside the transmission gets replaced during a rebuild
Great video! How may time you should change that filter?
1st time at 90k, then 60k after would be my recommend intervals. But this is my opinion only.
awesome tutorial - but a couple questions after I tried it. my air box has the two 10mm bolts yours does, but it also seems to have a bolt with a rounded oval head holding on the air box behind the first bolt you took off...so right next to the engine. I didn't see you take one off in that position, but it does look like there is a tab on the air box bottom that sticks out much like mine and there is something there. can you tell me if you had something in that position? so in the10 or 11o'lock position of the air box when you are looking at the engine compt from front of car. I reassembled mine when I could not get that 3rd bolt off and reconnected the air sensor(and got a new air filter since it was a bit dirty) and my check engine light is on. I think it has to do something with that air box sensor or maybe an air leak. I changed my oil at the same time but that all checks good...I may go get a code reader in the morning but curious if you may have any guesses...thanks!
Sorry I was late reading this, did you fix it
Thank you for the video. I was wondering if you can see the filter from the bottom or is this the best way ?
You cannot see the filter from the bottom Yes this is the only way, good luck
I have a 11 civic, i pulled out the clamp from underneath using the hoist. It visible and reachable at least in 11 civic
@@ShyamKumar-cp5mu Thanks, this was my concern as well. I will look see on my 2007 and 2005 Honda Civics. I bought 3 civics but the 2004 was sold by family.
Tx for an informative & excellent video. I have a HONDA BRV SUV. In 2019, My mechanic suggested using Shell S1 ATF TASA , which is automotive transmission, power steering and hydraulic oil mainly used for heavy-duty vehicle in my HONDA BRV, which has a CVT transmission. It was changed 3 yrs ago and have had no problem with my car, in fact excellent faultless performance. But now it turns out that I should have used the Honda recommended Idemitsu CVTF Type H2 is specifically formulated for CVT in all Honda vehicles and my warranty is NULL and VOID. Want to know if ATF oil indeed damages a CVT transmission
Honda engineers spend millions developing what works best for the best performance, I always go with Honda recommended fluid and parts for the best performance, but I do not know your answer, just my thoughts
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks you Sir,, Just wanted to confirm if using an ATF in a CVT will eventually result in the death of the transmission.. I completely understand using strictly Honda recommended stuff, however the period was COVID, when garages were hardly open and imported CVT oils difficult to procure in India. Hence as a workaround an experienced mechanic suggested the high quality Shell ATF, which has caused no damage whatsoever, in fact my Honda SUV transmission is smooth as silk, Only that I have lost my warranty now. So should I cut my losses, flush the existing oil and put the Honda recommended OEM Idemitsu CVT fluid, I have only done 15,000 kms and I believe a transmission oil requires a change only after 50,000 kms .
If it were me, I would definitely get the approved Honda fluid in it, if nothing else you’ll feel better about it
Good video. Some people make mistakes in the direction of the filter. They put the fat side down. Originally it was up as in your video. My oil change goto service centre did that. They did say it doesn't matter much though they flipped it later. Also i changed O.E.M dw1 ATF. I didn't go for the cheaper DEXRON III by korean brands they were recommending to me.
What you say. Can Dexron III be substituted for Honda DW1 ATF?
I would only use the Honda Fluid. By the way, the filter only fits in the bracket one way
Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
will the level of the oil go down too much if you change only the filter ?
Couple of ounces, sou you will want to check your level after completing this
Amazing video ! One question thou is it okay to do this before changing the transmission fluid ?
It doesn’t matter , before or after
Thank you sooooo much! i've been looking for this information so long.
Glad I could help
Where did you buy your filter...I just want to get an oem one thanks for your video.
Honda,
Genuine Honda (25430-PLR-003) Transmission Filter I see online via amazon and many others using the part number
Just looking at the 2013 Civic-LX I have the job looks a lot more complicated, based on the location of the filter - the 8 min video was great - but I'm guessing this could be 2 hours or more. Getting to the filter and seeing what your doing is the wild card under the front cowing shield. Not sure if you come underneath the vehicle if you can even get t it after removing the plastic splash shields. What is interesting HONDA service doesn't recommend changing this filter unless you are changing the transmission. I drain and fill to level performed on the transmission at 20k miles religiously should keep the tranny humming along just fine. I'm going to dig into it because I just purchased a clean high milage Civic that was used for a daily highway commute. I like to do all the mechanical maintenance items when I buy a used vehicle, this was on my list but I may just pass if I think it is going to be 5 knuckle buster job with frustration. I'll dig into it when the weather warms up a bit.
2.0 hours is a fair assessment of time it will take, it’s really not that hard
@@dannysdiygarage is it the same filter location for the 2013 civic ?
I believe others said it was
Buy online this tool should help access 45 Degree Hose Clamp Plier, Automobile Water Pipe Plier, Angled Swivel Jaw Locking Car Water Pipe Fuel Coolant Clip, for Removal and Installation
This is going to help tremendously. Thank you!
Glad I can help, appreciate the comment
So in what order should I do it if I am trying to put that new trans filter and also doing a drain and fill. Which one should I do first? I just dont wanna mess anything in the car
Drain and fill first, although it really doesn’t matter much, not a big deal on which 1st
Do I have to do this every time I change my transmission fluid?
no, every 100k would be sufficient
Danny will this honda civic in line auto trans filter part #25430-RLR-003 work for a 2008 acura tsx?They look very much alike. Thanks
Most likely, call Acura to be sure, they will give you a part number
Hi,
I'm thinking on swapping the manual gearbox to auto on my Mk9 1.6 diesel, could you give me any advise in this sense,
It’s not going to be easy, I would not go there. 👍🏼 my thoughts
When I change my transmission filter I get under the car to easily reach the bottom hose clamp and remove bottom hose then remove the clamp that holds the filter in place. Just wanted to share so that maybe it helps someone else? I did find something in your video that I will try next time though. Thanks for the video!
You’re welcome, thanks for taking the time to update us
Run the car until it’s at operating temperature, put the car in drive for a few seconds then reverse for a few seconds, then back into park, shut the car off wait 60 seconds and check the fluid, wipe the dip stick it a few time, it should read between the marks each time you check it, if not add more fluid and check again until a good reading on every check, hopefully this is clear
I would love to know if you would know I have a 2011 Honda Ridgeline does it have the same type of filter setup thank you very very much
I don’t know, sorry,
Thank you, this video is very descriptive on what to do.
You’re welcome
Danny you the man. Great video I’m looking to buy trans filter
What years does this cover??? My 2014 Civic service manual says nothing about a filter on the trans??? Thanks
I believe Honda parts calls it a transmission cooler filter, call Honda parts and ask about it
2002 and 2004 have
Is that the outlet or inlet line? Is the filter directional if so should the flow indicator point down or up?
It only fits one way, it won’t line up in the bracket if it wrong
@@loubosTV it will only go on one way due to the way it sits in the bracket
Thanks for a great video. How often do you change the transmission filter?
90k would be ideal
@@dannysdiygarage Thank you.
I did this job, yes it was kinda of a pain without 45 degree pliers. But i didnt put the bracket back on the new filter, its kinda dangling is that ok?
Zip tie it
What about the one under the trans oil pan?
You can’t get to the one in the transmission
@@dannysdiygarage You can in a 2016 Fit, i would have thought the civic would be the same way.
The Honda Civic Transmission has a screen that in older revisions would clog but Honda has solved that problem on the newer automatic Transmissons. It is major surgery to replace or clean the internal screen and only the most skilled do it yourself or professional transmission person would even attempt. I have seen videos on the Transmisson screen and other repairs.
@@dennissytsma3561 me and my nephew did both the trans cooler filter and the pan filter in his 2016 Honda fit in about 3 hours give or take. Was no big deal.
@@cdimmm Thank you very much for the information