Just search “mk7 clutch line” www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/exact-fit-stainless-steel-clutch-hose/006719ecs01~a/ You just remove that part and install this
I have had an ECS SS line at home for a month now and just haven't installed it yet. Getting my clutch replaced this friday so I think I'm going to wait on the line until afterward. I was going to have them do it at the same time but feel like I might be changing too much at one time. Do you have the ECS bleeder block as well? looks like it from the vid. I didn't buy but I was also debating on that. Maybe when I install the SS line I'll get the bleeder block and do that at the same time after I get the new clutch broken in. I can't believe your stock clutch is still holding up with all the launching you've done. Mine is shit from the previous owner and will slip in second now. You should list your mods/tune and such in the comments section. I wonder sometimes if you have this or that installed and then have to browse video titles to see if I can tell.
Thanks for taking the time to type that all out!! I'll make a pinned post on this video with a mods list! I would definitely do the bleeder block and line at the same time, I truly believe that the clutch mods extend the clutch life significantly! Sucks yours slips already 😬 least you'll have a nice strong clutch in there and not have to worry, I'm paranoid about mine all the time but I don't really have issues. She's slipped a few times on colder days with a strong E blend so I'd just take a easy and top off on some normal pump to even out the power a bit. But yeah I'm throughly surprised myself that it's lasted this long! *Knocks on wood* lol
The reason I say to do the line and block at the same time as the clutch is because of how drastic the change in feel is, I have many years of driving a stick car and it was such a change I stalled the car multiple times after doing the mods. You're already gonna have a heavier clutch I'd imagine and it'll take a little to get used to, then you'll have to get used to it again after doin these mods.
Thanks for the replies. Same exact thing I was wondering actually is that I'm going to have to relearn the clutch feel anyway after the swap so I might as well just install the line. Going to just take it with me on Friday to see if they'll change it while they're doing everything else for me. First manual for me in 15 years since my 95 Jetta in college (not VR6 unfortunately) Wow you have a lot more shit done to the car than I realized. Did you have someone protune it for you? I found out the previous owner had APR S1 on mine so I'm just going to stick with that until S2 then maybe change over to something else down the road. Never had a tuned car before so I'm learning through the forums and these kinds of vids.
Nice man I started with a Jetta as well! Then moved on to an mk4 .:R32 and wound up supercharging that, it was sooo much fun.. then it flooded here and I sucked up water into the motor and bent a rod ☹️ I didn't know that at the time though or I would have rebuilt the motor, so I wound up parting out the car and getting the mk7! But yeah I'd definitely see if they'll do it, it shouldn't take more then an hour to knock out the line and block together! It's gonna feel so different, you're gonna love it! Also there is a spring on the back of the clutch pedal I'd remove, that changed things up a bit as well, literally takes like 9 seconds to remove. I think vw put all these small things in place to help assist fairly new manual drivers, but for the majority it hinders us especially once you start putting the car through it's paces. Yeah the list is a little long now lol! I did most of this stuff before I ever started making vids for RUclips. I should probably maybe do like a 45k update video and go over everything that is done and whatnot..
that sucks about the R32, too bad you didn't know that ahead of time. Guy I work with just recently had his '16 STI engine grenade on him. He was running a conservative tune and didn't even drive it that hard. Just had a new block put in and had it all rebuilt. It started ticking and I just happened to follow him home that day and there was a cloud of smoke and then it was done. Oil spewing out of the front of the engine and you could see a hole in the top of the block. I'll have to check for that spring to see if the previous owner removed it. I'm assuming he might have since there's a stop installed behind the clutch pedal and he already had OEM audi short shifter and 42dd bushings installed. I lucked out really, found out he had APR tune on it, VWR springs and rear sway bar also had it ceramic coated. Less $ I had to spend on mods I would've ended up doing anyway. You have a good channel, surprised you don't have more subscribers yet but keep up the good work and it'll expand. Seem as though you have a good head on your shoulders as well. congrats on the new job!
I cant believe your tuned and still on stock clutch! 2018 gti with 10k and I cant go stage 1 cus it slips! I have owned a 2017 wrx on stock clutch with 350whp and not once did it slip. I hear alot of vw owners say there stock clutches are junk.
I finally swapped it out at 55k, it was barley starting to slip at launch, going big turbo soon so I had to knock it out. Idk why vw went so cheap there... Go South bend!! I got the stage 3 daily and it's TITS
Where did you get the swirl valve delete? I was trying to find it, but haven’t been able to. Definitely, going to get ECS stainless steel clutch line and bleeder block too
I installed the bleeder block but when i went to bleed the clutch the pedal has absolutely no feel and if you press it. it slams on the floor and when you pull it back to slams back up. All the air left the system but the clutch still just sticks to the floor. What am i doing wrong . i heard to over fill the reservoir and then it will start bleeding. i didn't add any fluid when i did this just took what was in the bottle when i bleed it and put it back in when i saw the pedal isn't working
Never grave me an issue till I sold the car at 81k, I’d do it again yeah if you’re trying to break records or chase down every hundredth of a second on a course. For a mostly daily it’s prolly not needed
Hey I have a mk6 gli and the ecs line isn't long enough to reach the firewall section where the swirl valve is. Do you happen to know if the clutch lines are the same for gti and gli and also do you know how long the line actually is.
Lines should be the same for both models as the chassis and positions are the same.. odd it didn't reach I still have extra extra slack even with the swirl gone.. but honestly I didn't really notice much of a difference. Probably don't really need to ditch it
Heads up to anyone buying this ECS Clutch line I have a Sachs aluminum throw out bearing and ECS stage 2 clutch. Line blew out after 400 miles. Avoid it if you can
Bryce Jordan Productions interesting... I figured I must have a faulty part. I’ll see what ECS says - failed on the inside and the outer red sheath is now holding brake fluid. Pretty disappointed for a brand new part, installed it a few days ago!
I believe the swirl valve you are referring to is actually called the “clutch delay valve”. It’s intended to keep bad drivers from dumping their clutch, but it’s really annoying on some guys for a skilled driver. You can remove that valve from the factory clutch like on your R really easily. I had mine out in 10 minutes.
Nope! Two totally different pieces boss, delay valve is right on the trans attached to the throw out bearing. The swirl valve is where the fluid is coming from the master cylinder off of the firewall. Delay valve is a must, swirl valve I'm still debating to this day if it really did much good, but I can't complain lol
May be different on you're vehicle but I'm seeing this is what's to be deleted as part as the CDV installation...my new SS line now goes from my slave directly to my brake master cylinder, whereas before it went from slave to swirl then from swirl to master cylinder.
Oh yeah a little different then. I don't really remember a huge difference getting rid of it, but I've never put it back and no problems on stock and aftermarket clutches. Been well over a year now I believe
Mod list for anyone that's wondering what all is done! Tuned around 10k currently 42k still on the stock clutch!
Engine:
United Motorsports Tune: Adjustable file
APR Boost tap
APR Dog bone insert
APR Intercooler piping
BFI Engine mount stage 1
BFI Transmission mount stage 2
Brisk ER12 Sparkplugs
CTS turbo piping
Diesel Geek short shifter
Racingline catch can
Racingline Remote washer
Racingline Intake
Racingline Turbo muffler delete
Racingline Turbo inlet
Racingline Intake pipe
Racingline Intercooler
Remus Sport Exhaust**
Revo down pipe w/42DD O2 spacer
**102mm Carbon angled tips w/ Ti internals
Wheels/Tires:
19x8 Pretorias (black)
Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 2. 235/35/19
ECS wheel spacers 10/15mm
Suspension/Brakes:
034 rear sway bar
034 sway bar end links
EBC yellow pads
Racingline springs
Rear Leyo undercarriage brace
Stoptech slotted rotors
Exterior:
Black emblems
Blind spot mirrors
Carbon mirror caps
LED euro tails
Maxton Spoiler
Other:
Clutch stop
Clutch spring delete
De-badge front, rear and fenders (R)
DeAuto key blue LED footwells
Ecs clutch bleeder block
Ecs clutch line
P3 Boost gauge
Porsche coolant cap
Rear wiper delete
Swirl valve delete
I can't found this Product on the ecs homepage...
Just search “mk7 clutch line”
www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/exact-fit-stainless-steel-clutch-hose/006719ecs01~a/
You just remove that part and install this
I have had an ECS SS line at home for a month now and just haven't installed it yet. Getting my clutch replaced this friday so I think I'm going to wait on the line until afterward. I was going to have them do it at the same time but feel like I might be changing too much at one time. Do you have the ECS bleeder block as well? looks like it from the vid. I didn't buy but I was also debating on that. Maybe when I install the SS line I'll get the bleeder block and do that at the same time after I get the new clutch broken in. I can't believe your stock clutch is still holding up with all the launching you've done. Mine is shit from the previous owner and will slip in second now.
You should list your mods/tune and such in the comments section. I wonder sometimes if you have this or that installed and then have to browse video titles to see if I can tell.
Thanks for taking the time to type that all out!! I'll make a pinned post on this video with a mods list! I would definitely do the bleeder block and line at the same time, I truly believe that the clutch mods extend the clutch life significantly! Sucks yours slips already 😬 least you'll have a nice strong clutch in there and not have to worry, I'm paranoid about mine all the time but I don't really have issues. She's slipped a few times on colder days with a strong E blend so I'd just take a easy and top off on some normal pump to even out the power a bit. But yeah I'm throughly surprised myself that it's lasted this long! *Knocks on wood* lol
The reason I say to do the line and block at the same time as the clutch is because of how drastic the change in feel is, I have many years of driving a stick car and it was such a change I stalled the car multiple times after doing the mods. You're already gonna have a heavier clutch I'd imagine and it'll take a little to get used to, then you'll have to get used to it again after doin these mods.
Thanks for the replies. Same exact thing I was wondering actually is that I'm going to have to relearn the clutch feel anyway after the swap so I might as well just install the line. Going to just take it with me on Friday to see if they'll change it while they're doing everything else for me. First manual for me in 15 years since my 95 Jetta in college (not VR6 unfortunately)
Wow you have a lot more shit done to the car than I realized. Did you have someone protune it for you? I found out the previous owner had APR S1 on mine so I'm just going to stick with that until S2 then maybe change over to something else down the road. Never had a tuned car before so I'm learning through the forums and these kinds of vids.
Nice man I started with a Jetta as well! Then moved on to an mk4 .:R32 and wound up supercharging that, it was sooo much fun.. then it flooded here and I sucked up water into the motor and bent a rod ☹️ I didn't know that at the time though or I would have rebuilt the motor, so I wound up parting out the car and getting the mk7!
But yeah I'd definitely see if they'll do it, it shouldn't take more then an hour to knock out the line and block together! It's gonna feel so different, you're gonna love it! Also there is a spring on the back of the clutch pedal I'd remove, that changed things up a bit as well, literally takes like 9 seconds to remove. I think vw put all these small things in place to help assist fairly new manual drivers, but for the majority it hinders us especially once you start putting the car through it's paces.
Yeah the list is a little long now lol! I did most of this stuff before I ever started making vids for RUclips. I should probably maybe do like a 45k update video and go over everything that is done and whatnot..
that sucks about the R32, too bad you didn't know that ahead of time. Guy I work with just recently had his '16 STI engine grenade on him. He was running a conservative tune and didn't even drive it that hard. Just had a new block put in and had it all rebuilt. It started ticking and I just happened to follow him home that day and there was a cloud of smoke and then it was done. Oil spewing out of the front of the engine and you could see a hole in the top of the block.
I'll have to check for that spring to see if the previous owner removed it. I'm assuming he might have since there's a stop installed behind the clutch pedal and he already had OEM audi short shifter and 42dd bushings installed. I lucked out really, found out he had APR tune on it, VWR springs and rear sway bar also had it ceramic coated. Less $ I had to spend on mods I would've ended up doing anyway.
You have a good channel, surprised you don't have more subscribers yet but keep up the good work and it'll expand. Seem as though you have a good head on your shoulders as well. congrats on the new job!
I cant believe your tuned and still on stock clutch! 2018 gti with 10k and I cant go stage 1 cus it slips! I have owned a 2017 wrx on stock clutch with 350whp and not once did it slip. I hear alot of vw owners say there stock clutches are junk.
I finally swapped it out at 55k, it was barley starting to slip at launch, going big turbo soon so I had to knock it out. Idk why vw went so cheap there... Go South bend!! I got the stage 3 daily and it's TITS
Very true same with the seat Leon Cupra as its the same EA888 engine and gearbox and clutch! The clutches are like chocolate fire guards!
Turn the wheel from lock to lock to reset all the lights
Fair enough, I usually just take a lap around the block and they clear. Good to know!
Where did you get the swirl valve delete? I was trying to find it, but haven’t been able to. Definitely, going to get ECS stainless steel clutch line and bleeder block too
You just remove it when you go to do the stainless line, the line is the delete 😛
Bryce Jordan Productions oooh ok. Lol I thought that was another piece. Thanks!
Or you can do what it did and just bend out that 90° at the end of the line by hand or a refrigeration pipe bender for copper 😜
I installed the bleeder block but when i went to bleed the clutch the pedal has absolutely no feel and if you press it. it slams on the floor and when you pull it back to slams back up. All the air left the system but the clutch still just sticks to the floor. What am i doing wrong
. i heard to over fill the reservoir and then it will start bleeding. i didn't add any fluid when i did this just took what was in the bottle when i bleed it and put it back in when i saw the pedal isn't working
I wondered why my clutch felt soft but still chirps tires even dumping clutch
Yup gotta do that delay valve at the least but this helps too!
How did it hold up long-term and would you do it again? Sounds like some people had issues with it.
Never grave me an issue till I sold the car at 81k, I’d do it again yeah if you’re trying to break records or chase down every hundredth of a second on a course. For a mostly daily it’s prolly not needed
Hey I have a mk6 gli and the ecs line isn't long enough to reach the firewall section where the swirl valve is. Do you happen to know if the clutch lines are the same for gti and gli and also do you know how long the line actually is.
Lines should be the same for both models as the chassis and positions are the same.. odd it didn't reach I still have extra extra slack even with the swirl gone.. but honestly I didn't really notice much of a difference. Probably don't really need to ditch it
Thank you sir! Needed this!
Glad I could help!
Heads up to anyone buying this ECS Clutch line
I have a Sachs aluminum throw out bearing and ECS stage 2 clutch. Line blew out after 400 miles. Avoid it if you can
Mines been in for over 15k with zero issues 🤷♂️
Bryce Jordan Productions interesting... I figured I must have a faulty part. I’ll see what ECS says - failed on the inside and the outer red sheath is now holding brake fluid. Pretty disappointed for a brand new part, installed it a few days ago!
@@johnolaughlin1615 I'm sure they'll send you a new one! I'm not the biggest fan of ECS myself but they take care of people as of lately
Had sane issue
I believe the swirl valve you are referring to is actually called the “clutch delay valve”. It’s intended to keep bad drivers from dumping their clutch, but it’s really annoying on some guys for a skilled driver. You can remove that valve from the factory clutch like on your R really easily. I had mine out in 10 minutes.
Nope! Two totally different pieces boss, delay valve is right on the trans attached to the throw out bearing. The swirl valve is where the fluid is coming from the master cylinder off of the firewall. Delay valve is a must, swirl valve I'm still debating to this day if it really did much good, but I can't complain lol
Doing this mod on my b8.5 S5... does the swirl looking piece stay intact while doing the CDV? Clutch line from slave to swirl part?
Yeah they're on two totally different ends of the clutch line
May be different on you're vehicle but I'm seeing this is what's to be deleted as part as the CDV installation...my new SS line now goes from my slave directly to my brake master cylinder, whereas before it went from slave to swirl then from swirl to master cylinder.
Oh yeah a little different then. I don't really remember a huge difference getting rid of it, but I've never put it back and no problems on stock and aftermarket clutches. Been well over a year now I believe