Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you! Spring Tools: amzn.to/3oKTAdG Stahlwille: amzn.to/3qmfNiC (no longer available) Starrett Manual: amzn.to/45JYxDW Starrett Automatic: amzn.to/3C8crCk Williams: amzn.to/43xzfac GearWrench: amzn.to/43DKRIV Klein Tools: amzn.to/3WJr5cS Mayhew Tools: amzn.to/3ONB7HN Wilde Tool: amzn.to/3ORgbzL Hazet: amzn.to/43gPicX Proto: amzn.to/3N6nnWr Sabrecut: amzn.to/3C8uR68 General Tools: amzn.to/3qlrOVq Mulwark: amzn.to/45F53vU Neiko: amzn.to/3CqxnF3 Lisle: amzn.to/3IU76lT Snap On: Available at the online Snap On store
Todd doesn’t do what most other RUclips channels do, like live streams, q&a, shorts etc…and has almost 3 MILLION subscribers. He’s literally had an episode on paint, and rust. And we watch it, 😆. Shows just how awesome this channel is. Keep up the great work dude!
My go-to attitude towards "Shorts!" Is *NO*. Just no. Unless it's Project Farm intentionally short-circuiting batteries to test for fire danger and electrical safety! 💥 🔥 😉😄
It'd be cool to see a part 2 where you see how many hits they take to dull the tip, then try resharpening all the punches n see if theres any decrease in tip strength
@@donwest5387 that’s what I was thinking, I’ve had some success when I go slow, and use coolant. The ones I’ve destroyed because I was in a hurry. Live and learn.
Hey I’ve been a Machinist for about 1 year now and I’ve been watching you since highschool. I’d love to see a comparison test of cheap vs expensive metrology equipment. They’ll probably both be accurate but I’m mostly thinking of wear in the lead screw and amount of damage the faces can take! Keep up the good work!
did something similar to this recently with my grandfather, compared the accuracy of all the metrological equipment around the workshop and came to the conclusion of, if you need cheap calipers, don't buy dial calipers, as only the expensive ones seem to hold up to the test of time. For micrometers, cheap is fine for metric but you'll be hard pressed to find a cheap tenths micrometer.
I can't help but think the Starrett auto punch you got was a QC fail from the factory. Would be interesting to grind the tip to a point and see how it performs.
All the Starrett auto punches i know/use have a sharp tip. So a defect or a different type. To bad it happens in a lot of test that there are apples to oranges comparisons by not selecting the comparible type/line from the differend manufactures.
Yeah it seems like it must have snuck through their quality department. It would be bad for a company to knowingly allow a defective part to be sent to market
I think a comparison of hand file sets would be a good video, I know there are many types of files out there but they are very versatile tools. Thank you for everything you do Todd! :)
@@ProjectFarmerror: I just watched your ratcheting wrench comparison.....and as you test the jaws and play, you forgot that the handle thickness varies as the measurement point moves into the micrometer. So you raise the wrench up and the device is measuring a thicker point on the handle......so you measure change in handle thickness and you aren't measuring open end wrench play.
@@sasquatchrosefarts I find the handle to come into play in real life settings though. Often knocking between engine and body or other tight spaces. So while I see what you're talking about, I actually like that the handle is in the test.
@@sasquatchrosefartsright ok. how can you use a ratchet if the handle is out of space to move? Tight spaces are where that matters which a thicker handle will affect.
@@ProjectFarmHi, I would be happy with you to check dry lubrication? That is, either dry materials called graphite, or liquid materials that dry and produce a lubricating layer. I'm mostly interested in this for locks, because liquid lubricant causes dirt to build up until the mechanism jams. So that you check a few things - how fast it dries, how sticky the material stays, does it also clean the mechanism and remove dirt, does it protect the mechanism against rust, and does it really manage to make the mechanism work smoothly.
I've been a machinist for almost a decade and I'll stand by my starrett center punch. It has never not worked for me, looks great, and it also matches a lot of my metrology tools.
Yeah I have the exact same automatic punch that was tested. I almost believe he got a manufacturing defect because mine has a sharp point and zero issues with steel
@@hahahahaballsThey come with different tip "sharpness" levels. The one in the video is for when you're going to use a larger diameter drill, and you have the sharper one.
Been using a spring tools punch for a year or two on and off with mild steel and have been hugely happy with it, this just confirms it was a very wise purchase! Fantastic work as always!!
*WARNING* : I have a Spring Tool center punch and I'm glad it performed well in your tests but I will say the actual design of it might be a deal-breaker for many people. If you want a precision tool, it might not be for you. It takes more practice to use so you don't move off your mark. Also, it would be near impossible to use properly if you were working in tight spaces as it requires 2 hands to be on the tool.
I was going to try the springtool punch, but if figured if I could use two hands I would use a manual punch. The benefits I see of the auto is one handed operation, and all the automatics I’ve tried work on soft material but fail on the hard alloys.
@@peterparsons7141Where it really shines is when you don't have room to actually swing a hammer enough to get a good shot... The spring tools punches are great... Worth having in my opinion.
We use the spring tool punches with the fire department as a glass breaker, and they work absolutely amazing for that. I've seen them break plenty of windows that the push punches just can't
@@williamletts9487 I use a device with the same design to remove door hinge pins, and another to adjust dovetail gun sights. It's a really cool design where it works, but I agree with the earlier comment that they aren't all that precise.
Off topic a little, I grew up on a farm, stayed there all my working life. Back about 65 years my dad bought some chisels and punches from a traveling salesman. I still remember that day. The brand was Lesota, I still have them and still use them, they are fantastic tools. That fellow came by for years, and I have quite a few striking tools that he sold to us. Googled them, incorporated in 1945, dissolved in 1990, headquarters in MN. They sure made some great tools. This video sparked those memories, thank you Todd.
Great to see the different punches, I have a very old set that were my grandfather's and there's no name on them but they're harder than anything I've ever used them on!! Thank you for the hard work you're the best creator on RUclips!!
I don’t do much with metal, but I’m very pleased with my spring tools nail sets. They are extremely convenient when setting proud nails into wood. Better than using a hammer and nail set, and they hit plenty hard enough to set trim nails.
I also love using the hinge pin remover version as well. Much more compact when you're trying to get the bottom hinge, and you're less likely to dent or scratch the door or trim with a misplaced hammer blow.
My only comment is that you are simply amazing. Your videos, your attention to detail, your testing methods, and your explanations are unparalleled anywhere else. Thank you as always!!!
I have two Starrett automatic center punches. When I use one I always follow with a conventional center punch to get a proper dimple to start a drill. I do learn a lot watching your videos.
For thirty years now I've been using a 3/8-18 tap for a center punch. I always thought it was a nono to strike hardened steel but it doesn't have any chips and the point is still sharp after a thousand strikes.
Mayhew and Wilde make punches/chisels/pry bars for practically every brand that sells ones made in USA. You’re essentially just picking between those two brands
Two reasons. Labour and shipping. Labour is expensive in the US, but these tools basically vomited out by a machine at the push of a button, so not really labour intense to make. Shipping is also expensive, especially heavy things (imagine what a shipping container would weight full to the top with these). If you can make something for cheap, and you can make it where you intend to sell it is a no brainer.
@@janosszabo98shipping is too much nowadays so thankfully the manufacturing of hand tools is returning to north America. Milwaukee USA made being an example.
I like the Spring Tools punch for setting nails. No other nail punch I have found has the speed and force needed to set small 18 gauge finish nails when they fail to go all the way in.
It'd be cool to see how levels compare, for such a seemingly simple tool there's a ton of options with a huge range of prices. Like on a 48" level there's one at $10 and another at $149
@@ProjectFarmit will be tricky to do levels, because you might have a brand with really loose quality control, but happen to get one that's exactly correct right out of the box, just by luck.
Another great video. I use center punches occasionally, but never really thought about "good" vs "bad" ones, so I didn't even know I needed this video. I appreciate your hard work!
I also have and use daily a Starrett 18C. It is probably my favorite punch. It works perfect for aluminum, and steels I use it as a starter punch and follow through with a hammer and traditional punch. Interestingly enough the tip did get pretty deformed after only a year or so of use. I've had to chick it in a drill to regrind it a few times. Pretty annoying. I guess when it truly wears out I'll have to try finding a replacement.
I honestly thought at first; no way, not going to watch this; way to boring a concept... But then I realized Project Farms made this. 16:45 seconds later, i've again had my eyesight opened to tools that perform exceedingly well, for a fraction of the cost. Surprised HF's center punch wasn't used and 2) I now know I need a 'spring punch'. Thanks again Sir, as always, you teach so much to the YT world that tunes in. We're wizer for your shared reviews!
I've never bought a center punch in my life. I still have the one we had to make in High School Machine Shop class back in 1976. Has been in my tool box for 40+ years as a mechanic. Has only needed a handful of resharpening. Thank you Mr Fetter(teacher).
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:00 The video is testing the performance of different manual and automatic center punches. 00:27 The least expensive brand tested is Mayhew Tools, priced at $19 for four punches. 01:10 Wild Tool, priced at $8, performed well and left a 0.0385 inch crater. 01:36 Klein Tools, also priced at $8, had a small bounce but performed similarly to Wild Tool. 02:04 Williams Brand, priced at $10, had a small jump and left a 0.0335 inch crater. 02:18 GearWrench, priced at $14, performed well with a small bounce and a 0.0355 inch crater. 02:32 Stanley Proto, priced at $14, had a small bounce and left a 0.0385 inch crater. 02:47 Starrett Brand, priced at $17, made the deepest indentation at 0.0395 inches. 03:02 Hazet Brand, priced at $17, matched Starrett at 0.041 inches. 03:15 Sabrecut Extreme, priced at $48, also performed well with a 0.0295 inch crater. 03:28 Stahlwille Brand, priced at $50, had a 0.0415 inch crater. 03:42 Snap-on Brand, though more expensive, performed well with a 0.032 inch indentation. 04:10 Automatic Center Punches were also tested, with varying results in performance. 05:07 Spring Tools performed the best among automatic punches with a 0.028 inch indentation. 05:37 Nico Brand had a spring tension adjustment and performed at 0.0245 inches. 06:05 General Tools Brand performed at 0.0255 inches on hard materials. 06:33 Sabrecut Extreme also performed well with a 0.0295 inch indentation. 07:28 Comparison of performance on mild steel, medium hardness steel, and very hard steel was done. 16:37 Overall, Starrett Brand and Spring Tools performed well in the tests. Made with HARPA AI
Regarding the Starrett automatic center punch, I had to check mine to make sure, but you definitely received one that was used or damaged. Mine has a perfectly sharp tip on it. Possible someone attempted to use it on something very hard, and then returned it as if it was never used. Granted, I use mine for mostly aluminum, so I'm not sure you'd see that much better results outside of aluminum. Some nice options otherwise!
That's part of the test though, When you spend for a starrett you are paying for QA.... or should be. I'm sure a review unit would have been perfect, but that's why it's so important to just buy it and see what you actually get in the box as a consumer. In this case, a POS... super disappointing, I expected starrett to run away with this.
Todd, Agreed - you might want to check with Starrett on that auto center punch - looks like someone may have abused it and sent it back to wherever you purchased it from. I wholeheartedly agree with your no-gifts stance for testing, but when something is as off-kilter as this, you would be doing us, your viewers, a disservice to not check/confirm your results with the manufacturer. It is very possible you have a forgery as well.
I haven't personally used a single "store bought" punch ever since I made my own, from a piece of the suspension spring on a car. It's been over a year since I made it and i've used it A LOT and i've never resharpened it. Works absolutely amazing
Same. I like using 4340 or O1 to make center punches, drift punches, pin punches, roll punches, chisels, etc... My starret punches sit in the toolbox, primarily because they're round and roll around while I'm working. I have a couple of overload springs a buddy gave me when he busted one. Working it is real drama, unless it's annealed. I will try using that material next time.
The Gedore 101(similar to the Sabrecut model) and Starrett 18C are excellent automatic center punches. This specific blunt tip on the Starrett model used in this testing is designed for large diameter drill bits and softer materials. But they have sharper tips as well.
I love my 18C! On aluminum it's perfect by itself, and it's quite precise for steel as well. Sometimes I follow through with a regular punch and hammer, but only if I'm doing something larger or really thick steel
Yea, my Starrett 18C has a sharp tip I wondered if he got a used tool when he showed that tip. Because all of those automatic punches don’t leave quite as deep punch as the manual ones, I usually deepen my center punch but I think it’s easier to locate the original punch with the slimmer automatic one. Thanks for sharing!
I agree with what ffontana is saying. There are many varieties of Starrett auto punches. I think the one you were testing with here is recommended for wood in their documentation
I'll vouch for the Starrett 18A auto punch's durability, still going strong after 30+ years of hard use. I think its had maybe 10 tips over the years and I grind them till they can't be used anymore.
@@anvilsvs Yes you do, at the risk of sounding like an add. I would get the bigger unit though, I have had some times were I wished for a little more "wallop" than the 18-A could deliver. Other than that it seems to be a lifetime unit.
As other comments mentioned, tip durability, especially for the loaded punches would be an ESSENTIAL factor. I find that using a loaded punch is much much more convenient that having to hit the classic punch with a hammer. For harder materials (or if i want a larger spot) I just spring punch a few times in the same spot and thats it. Thats why durability of those tipos is critical.
I’m so glad you did this comparison. Two takeaways come to mind immediately- 1. The Starrett brand surprised me the most by its under performance, and 2. I have bought a couple of different brands of spring loaded automatic punches over the years, and have returned almost as many. So many have failed to “cock or recock” when used. Another RUclipsr remarked that customers should buy three or four of the Harbor Freight ones and keep the one that works. My sentiments exactly.
bradbyers7505 I agree, but you can apply this logic to most any other brand compared to buying snap on brand, it's not just HF brand . This negates the main convenience "advantage" of buying overpriced snap on tools. You already have 2 to 6 of the same tool for backup for immediate use VS waiting a week or more for the truck to arrive.
I've had both the manual and auto Starrett punches since the 70's, never had a problem with either, and my auto came with a point from new. Obviously the manual punch is better on tool steels than the auto, horses for courses.
Good analysis video. My experiences are similar to your results, and curious about different brands you tested. Many modern alloys are a challenge to center punch. manual punches are a must have, the automatics have let me down and I end up using a manual. I’ve used, abused, and destroyed several automatics. The Starret wins because they replaced, or provided a repair kit promptly. The automatics are useful for multiple one handed punches on softer metals and that’s their limit. The manual Starret and Snap-on have stood the test of time, some are 50+ years and still going. However I have ruined several of both on very hard steel alloys. Good video, and thanks a lot for saving me from endlessly searching for an automatic for use on hard metals.
I am going out and getting the Stahwille. I've bluntened heaps of centre punches. I also like the Spring centre punch. I've had a go with one and it works well and have great control.
So I have the Starrett automatic centre punch (when I got it, there were two choices of spring tension, and I bought the heavier of them). My punch head (still) looks dramatically more pointed than the one as seen in test. I do find it at the highest tension setting to be overly heavy for the size hole it punches. However, I think I may have only once experienced a punched hole that was not sufficient for stopping a drill bit from walking over the face. Thanks for the test! Logical, but still somewhat surprising results! Edit: stuttering thumb with StarretT
I've also got the Sterrett Auto spring punch. The tip on it is not blunt like the one you used. You may have received a faulty product. Maybe you can get it exchanged for a sharp tipped product and retry the tests. 16:45
Good comparison, thanks Todd! Too bad about that automatics Starrett having a terrible tip as shipped. I would have loved to see how well a resharpened tip would have performed.
Would love to see the PB swiss punches tested, I've used both their steel and carbide tipped punches and have found I prefer them slightly to snap on punches. The fit and finish is exceptionally good :)
@@ProjectFarm adding some euro-made center punches from Facom, Rennsteig or Eclipse to the PB Swiss would be great as would be a few automatic japanese ones from SunFlag and Vessel along with some OEMs like the Fowler branded ones sold in the US. don't forget to test the cheap chinese/HF stuff too! 😉
To armchair quarterback, I've found that it's so easy to do multiple hits with automatic center punches. I know that could also be done with a manual center punch but it's really easy to just push that automatic one down a couple of time. It would be interesting to have seen what a 2nd strike for some of those automatic center punches would have done.
With automatic punches you might want to also test the mechanism durability. I have gone through a few, they just don't strike anymore or only do so sometimes at a weird angle. I've only used them in aluminium and some mild steel, so the tips are usually in perfect condition but that is not any help when the tool beomes a scribe with suspension ^^
been using a Starrett-made Würth rebrand for close to 15 years now and no problem with mechanism durability, same with a couple of made in Japan Sunflag models, 185 and 188, the first one being carbide tipped and no problem with those two too. i'm sure other manufacturers make good, durable ones but it might take a bit of research and testing to find them. 😗👌 quick tip for reducing punch head mushrooming: use a hard plastic no rebound hammer, the PB Swiss ones with the discs inside are really good but most will do with manual center punches when using the propper size. same with and impact driver, it does prolong their life greatly. 😉👍
Years ago 1977 when my hair wasn’t grey.I worked in a shipyard and I required a centre punch. A much wiser man sent me to the machine shop to request a centre punch to keep in my tool pouch. I was told to speak to a specific individual who obviously had many more years of experience than my 20 years. This gentleman took me to a bin and picked out a broken tap, he proceeded to grind a the tap making me one of the best centre punches I’ve ever owned. Sadly that punch walked away and never returned. Taps are brittle wear your safety glasses when striking any punch. Love the channel your videos never get old.
Tod I think your the only guy in the world who has ever tested center punches like this. Good work. For myself, I just buy what’s at the store that day. When it loses the tip I grind it back and temper it with a torch and oil. Works pretty good.
I've got the woodworking version of the Spring Tools one with a nail set on the other end, it's a fantastic tool that doesn't require a hammer for marking drilling points in wood and drywall.
In the battle of the 'manual punches', it's truly poetic justice that the Stahlwille came out on top by delivering a celestial body-sized blow! For those counting on automatic efficiency, the sprint tool gave a 'spring' to everyone’s steel-lifting dreams! Not sure if it's the muscle in the tools or the weight of the Todd's words, but something’s surely been hammered home today!
Good as always, however I believe the bounce in your first test is a function of where it hits on the length of the aluminum plank, therefore introduces errors to the testing you did. I think you should have secured the test pieces to control results.
For the automatic punches, I am interested to see how they ranked based upon feel, like I could see the Spring Tool punch causing finger fatigue from the vibrations on impact. Also, some of the bounce witnessed on manual punches could be the result of how far they were from the end of the sample material
@kittytrail Thanks for the advice, I've been using a brass gunsmithing hammer. I should have probably clarified, but the actual punch side is the one I'm having issues with mushrooming. I appreciate it.
@@reddubzsmash6889 if they mushroom on the flat that is in contact with the roll pin and if you're in the US or in a place with a good truck or industrial dealer, get Snap-on (or some other lifetime warrantied quality ones of your choice) and warranty them when needed as, in the long run, it'll probably be cheaper. good job on using a brass hammer on 'em. 😗👌 edit: if it's the pin that mushrooms it's probably either because you're not careful enough with their handling, placement before whackin' and/or storage or because the pin diameter isn't adequate. if the later, try different makes 'til you find the right one for your job, if former, mend your evil ways! 🤭
That Starrett auto punch does NOT look like the product pictures, which show it needle sharp. Counterfeit, QA problem, used/damaged item, I’m not sure, but it’s too bad it wasn’t sent back for a proper replacement.
Project farm gives EVERYDAY test that people could understand and do themselves This is why he’s the GOAT I watch cuz I enjoy the education of the video I don’t use any of this stuff 😂😂😂
When I worked as a toolmaker, I used a pointed gun tap. The advantage is the point is precision ground. Disadvantage is the brittle HSS. However, I’d make a light punch with the tap, then a normal centre punch to deepen the mark.
@@ProjectFarmI once went down a rabbit hole on emergency tools, like the hammer-shaped window breaker and seatbelt cutter that doesn't do any good sitting by my computer. Everyone said to just use a bit of broken ceramic from a spark plug, but when I looked into that it was far more difficult than they made it seem--of course.
I have the Spring Tools "spring punch" and it's major problem is operating it so it hit exactly where you want it. Also, it would be near imposible to use properly if you were working in tight spaces as it requires 2 hands to be on the tool.
@@SammyInnit it did not, I'm basically in a desert so the low humidity may play a role. There's supposed to be a piece inside that wears down that causes misfires on most of these, but it wasn't that either. I just quit trying to figure it out.
I have a centre punch which has lasted the test of time .A Mechanical Fitter in the 1950s used a coal cutter pick as a centre punch .He passed it on to me in the late 60s and I still use it to this day .I have used the punch many thousands of times in those 50 odd years marking out 8 x10 inch girders , Drilling 1 inch holes .The coal cutter pick is still like new .It has a tungsten tip on it .Even the striking end is still undamaged. I would strike it 3 times to make a good indentation for a 1 inch drill with a 2 LB Hammer. I have a smaller cutter pick from the 50s for more precision work, still like new also .Love all your videos , they are the best ...
One of the things that videos like this demonstrates very well is that the price of a tool is not automatically indicative of its quality. Great testing as always. Thanks for another informative video.
Great as always! I sometimes see people measuring things with cheap digital calipers; I wonder how much uncertainty is present in those measurements and whether a tester using correct technique on precisely calibrated materials could suss out the differences between, say, Starrett and a budget product. Also could compare dial- vs. slide-calipers. Thanks for all the testing!!
When I saw the Starrett thumbnail for this video, I had to check my tool bag to make sure the center punch I made in high school machine shop back in the 70s hadn't been magically spirited away. I had copied the design from a punch my father-a tool & die maker for GM-had in his home tool collection. I did the lathe work in school, and he taught me techniques for oil hardening it at home. It's a cherished possession, and is still going strong 45+ years later.
Best center punch is made often from other tooling .... A SDS drill bit top is one of the best options . 35 years plating and welding and i still use the same centre punch i made from a SDS drill bit nearly 30 years ago .
Todd love the content! As a contractor I’d love a comparison of different 14” diamond blade concrete saw blades. They vary immensely in terms of $$ and design.
I have the spring tools 2 piece set. I use the punch often, especially in tight places you cant swing a hammer. But I really enjoy the flat head punch for pushing door hinge pins. It is "very impressive." Thank you for your no-nonsense reviews.
I feel like one of the most important features of a center punch is its ability to center the drill where you want it, so if you were to do center punches again, maybe you could test how much deviation from the intended spot the dent is / where the drill would be put relative to where it is desired and how much the drill bit could move (this might be hard to test, as you would have to mark and punch at an exact spot where you could locate where it is supposed to be and where it is after) For example, duller tips might allow the drill to move around, or a center punch might not create a divot with the right geometry to properly center the bit.
I've never seen that Spring Tools punch before. I can definitely see more than one use case for that. For $15 it's something I'm absolutely going to pick up. Thanks!
I've heard spring punches are really powerful (and better than an automatic) but this showed it. Pretty versatile too, you can get into tight places where a hammer won't go, or an automatic doesn't hit hard enough.
I've not seen it as a centre-punch before, but I have seen something very similar used by pentesters to knock out the hinge-pins on doors, and it works really well
Hey Todd, could you do a test on trickle chargers please. Coming up on winter and I'd like to see which are better than others. Thanks for all the great videos!
I have used a General tool auto punch for over 20 years on all types of steels and metals and it still works perfectly. I am very pleased to see it in this comparison. Thanks as always for being so thorough.
I've found that buying the cheapest is sometimes the best option because every time I've purchased a nice one, it's ended up misplacing itself in someone elses toolbox. 😂
When I was training to be an EMT one of the go-to tools we carried for extrications from accident vehicles was a spring-loaded center punch. It would turn a vehicle side window into a cobweb without bursting the window and sending broken glass into the vehicle interior. It was a quick and simple job to pull the glass outward, away from the accident victim. No worries about how well the tip would hold up over time. I still have one that's about 20 years old, but now all I use it for is starting holes for driving wood screws and drywall screws into wood and it still does the job. (No idea what brand it is. Probably the cheapest one they had at Lowe's or Home Depot....)
The biggest advantage of using an automatic center punch is accuracy, the ability to use one hand, and get awkward or tight spaces. I feel like the spring tools is not good competition as it does not help with these things and therefore is the worst of both worlds. I often will use an auto punch to accurately and conveniently mark the center, and then deepen it with a bigger manual punch. Therefore, the criteria are really different between the two styles and the spring tool loses in my opinion .
Once again, your channel proven it's the most useful whensomeone collect info before buying tools. Also we've seen once again: not always the most expensive tool is the best. Thank you!
a Center punch was one of the first lessons I did during my training. Made from 1.2210 turned, knurled, hardened and tempered. I still used it today but had to sharpen it a few times.
You've done a lot of videos that deal with oils. How about comparisons of things that clean oil/grease? Degreasers, laundry soaps, and hell even dish washing liquid comparisons from you would be mighty interesting to see.
As much as I love tools Im in the market for a spot carpet cleaner. Right now its between the Rug Doctor Pet or Kenmore units. Would love to see a review of these two units mixed in with Bissell, Hoover, Dirt Devil and various Amazon china specials.
Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
Spring Tools: amzn.to/3oKTAdG
Stahlwille: amzn.to/3qmfNiC (no longer available)
Starrett Manual: amzn.to/45JYxDW
Starrett Automatic: amzn.to/3C8crCk
Williams: amzn.to/43xzfac
GearWrench: amzn.to/43DKRIV
Klein Tools: amzn.to/3WJr5cS
Mayhew Tools: amzn.to/3ONB7HN
Wilde Tool: amzn.to/3ORgbzL
Hazet: amzn.to/43gPicX
Proto: amzn.to/3N6nnWr
Sabrecut: amzn.to/3C8uR68
General Tools: amzn.to/3qlrOVq
Mulwark: amzn.to/45F53vU
Neiko: amzn.to/3CqxnF3
Lisle: amzn.to/3IU76lT
Snap On: Available at the online Snap On store
No PB Swiss? It has a carbide tip
Todd doesn’t do what most other RUclips channels do, like live streams, q&a, shorts etc…and has almost 3 MILLION subscribers. He’s literally had an episode on paint, and rust. And we watch it, 😆. Shows just how awesome this channel is. Keep up the great work dude!
My go-to attitude towards "Shorts!" Is *NO*. Just no. Unless it's Project Farm intentionally short-circuiting batteries to test for fire danger and electrical safety! 💥 🔥 😉😄
There is actually one sort of qna video.. I mean it doesn't test anything, it is just "About me"
Agreed. I literally unsubscribed from every chanel bombarding my notifications with their POS shorts
He understood the assignment and everything project delivers
I'm waiting for him to do a video on grass seed or fertilizer so he gets us to watch grass grow.
It'd be cool to see a part 2 where you see how many hits they take to dull the tip, then try resharpening all the punches n see if theres any decrease in tip strength
Thank you for the video idea!
That’s a good idea. I think everyone who’s ruined a punch will grind and new point and keep going.
shouldn't be if you don't over-heat the tip.
@@donwest5387 that’s what I was thinking, I’ve had some success when I go slow, and use coolant. The ones I’ve destroyed because I was in a hurry. Live and learn.
grind the tip with the punch parallel to the stone, grinding free-hand off the top of the stone.@@peterparsons7141
Hey I’ve been a Machinist for about 1 year now and I’ve been watching you since highschool. I’d love to see a comparison test of cheap vs expensive metrology equipment. They’ll probably both be accurate but I’m mostly thinking of wear in the lead screw and amount of damage the faces can take! Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for the suggesion.
Hey that would be a great video!!
Have you done best wobble/ flex joint sockets yet ?
did something similar to this recently with my grandfather, compared the accuracy of all the metrological equipment around the workshop and came to the conclusion of,
if you need cheap calipers, don't buy dial calipers, as only the expensive ones seem to hold up to the test of time. For micrometers, cheap is fine for metric but you'll be hard pressed to find a cheap tenths micrometer.
If it will repeat, you're as good as your standard is.
This channel is a national treasure! The amount of objective information is staggering!!
Thank you for sharing!
I can't help but think the Starrett auto punch you got was a QC fail from the factory. Would be interesting to grind the tip to a point and see how it performs.
All the Starrett auto punches i know/use have a sharp tip. So a defect or a different type. To bad it happens in a lot of test that there are apples to oranges comparisons by not selecting the comparible type/line from the differend manufactures.
Yeah it seems like it must have snuck through their quality department. It would be bad for a company to knowingly allow a defective part to be sent to market
I’m thinking it’s a counterfeit rather than a QC fail honestly.
My starter automatic center punch is sharp as a needle, probably a fluke or a fake, very surprising
Todd, I own a Starrett 18C automatic punch and it has a very sharp tip. I think you got a defective one.
I think a comparison of hand file sets would be a good video, I know there are many types of files out there but they are very versatile tools. Thank you for everything you do Todd! :)
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarmerror: I just watched your ratcheting wrench comparison.....and as you test the jaws and play, you forgot that the handle thickness varies as the measurement point moves into the micrometer. So you raise the wrench up and the device is measuring a thicker point on the handle......so you measure change in handle thickness and you aren't measuring open end wrench play.
@@sasquatchrosefarts I find the handle to come into play in real life settings though. Often knocking between engine and body or other tight spaces. So while I see what you're talking about, I actually like that the handle is in the test.
My bet goes to Pferd and Vallorbe for best files
@@sasquatchrosefartsright ok. how can you use a ratchet if the handle is out of space to move? Tight spaces are where that matters which a thicker handle will affect.
As someone who has went through my fair share of center punches, I can appreciate the value of information given in this video 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Did you loose them or you just don't know how to sharpen them?
@@ProjectFarmHi, I would be happy with you to check dry lubrication? That is, either dry materials called graphite, or liquid materials that dry and produce a lubricating layer. I'm mostly interested in this for locks, because liquid lubricant causes dirt to build up until the mechanism jams. So that you check a few things - how fast it dries, how sticky the material stays, does it also clean the mechanism and remove dirt, does it protect the mechanism against rust, and does it really manage to make the mechanism work smoothly.
The best center punch I have used is a needle form a diesel fuel injector.
I've been a machinist for almost a decade and I'll stand by my starrett center punch. It has never not worked for me, looks great, and it also matches a lot of my metrology tools.
Thanks for sharing!
Yeah I have the exact same automatic punch that was tested. I almost believe he got a manufacturing defect because mine has a sharp point and zero issues with steel
@@hahahahaballsAmazon probably gave him a Chinese replica Startett auto center punch.
Starrett, like Rolex is the most faked.
@@hahahahaballsThey come with different tip "sharpness" levels.
The one in the video is for when you're going to use a larger diameter drill, and you have the sharper one.
Been using a spring tools punch for a year or two on and off with mild steel and have been hugely happy with it, this just confirms it was a very wise purchase! Fantastic work as always!!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I love this guy
Thank you!
Absolute Hero.
The consumer's savior!
@@tsx3214well yeah, hes getting paid to do it.
*WARNING* : I have a Spring Tool center punch and I'm glad it performed well in your tests but I will say the actual design of it might be a deal-breaker for many people. If you want a precision tool, it might not be for you. It takes more practice to use so you don't move off your mark. Also, it would be near impossible to use properly if you were working in tight spaces as it requires 2 hands to be on the tool.
Thanks for sharing!
I was going to try the springtool punch, but if figured if I could use two hands I would use a manual punch.
The benefits I see of the auto is one handed operation, and all the automatics I’ve tried work on soft material but fail on the hard alloys.
@@peterparsons7141Where it really shines is when you don't have room to actually swing a hammer enough to get a good shot... The spring tools punches are great...
Worth having in my opinion.
We use the spring tool punches with the fire department as a glass breaker, and they work absolutely amazing for that. I've seen them break plenty of windows that the push punches just can't
@@williamletts9487 I use a device with the same design to remove door hinge pins, and another to adjust dovetail gun sights. It's a really cool design where it works, but I agree with the earlier comment that they aren't all that precise.
Off topic a little, I grew up on a farm, stayed there all my working life. Back about 65 years my dad bought some chisels and punches from a traveling salesman. I still remember that day. The brand was Lesota, I still have them and still use them, they are fantastic tools. That fellow came by for years, and I have quite a few striking tools that he sold to us. Googled them, incorporated in 1945, dissolved in 1990, headquarters in MN. They sure made some great tools. This video sparked those memories, thank you Todd.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I use the Starrett auto at work when I break glass. The tips we get are considerably sharper though, might be a choosable option.
Thanks for sharing!
I’m pretty sure it was a defect. Shame Starrett quality is sliding
Dang I like your videos. No bs, no long long drawn out crap. Everything I wanna know in a quick easy to follow cadence. Thank you sir.
Thank you for the feedback!
Great to see the different punches, I have a very old set that were my grandfather's and there's no name on them but they're harder than anything I've ever used them on!! Thank you for the hard work you're the best creator on RUclips!!
You are welcome!
I don’t do much with metal, but I’m very pleased with my spring tools nail sets. They are extremely convenient when setting proud nails into wood. Better than using a hammer and nail set, and they hit plenty hard enough to set trim nails.
Thank you for sharing!
I also love using the hinge pin remover version as well. Much more compact when you're trying to get the bottom hinge, and you're less likely to dent or scratch the door or trim with a misplaced hammer blow.
My only comment is that you are simply amazing. Your videos, your attention to detail, your testing methods, and your explanations are unparalleled anywhere else. Thank you as always!!!
I have two Starrett automatic center punches. When I use one I always follow with a conventional center punch to get a proper dimple to start a drill. I do learn a lot watching your videos.
That's what I also do.
Yep.
For thirty years now I've been using a 3/8-18 tap for a center punch. I always thought it was a nono to strike hardened steel but it doesn't have any chips and the point is still sharp after a thousand strikes.
Thanks for sharing!
Did it start out as a 3/8-16 and you've compressed the thread pitch by hitting it? Eventually it could become a 3/8-24! 😂
I can't believe how many were made in the USA. Wish more things were this way. Great video as always. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Mayhew and Wilde make punches/chisels/pry bars for practically every brand that sells ones made in USA. You’re essentially just picking between those two brands
Two reasons. Labour and shipping.
Labour is expensive in the US, but these tools basically vomited out by a machine at the push of a button, so not really labour intense to make.
Shipping is also expensive, especially heavy things (imagine what a shipping container would weight full to the top with these). If you can make something for cheap, and you can make it where you intend to sell it is a no brainer.
@@janosszabo98shipping is too much nowadays so thankfully the manufacturing of hand tools is returning to north America. Milwaukee USA made being an example.
I like the Spring Tools punch for setting nails. No other nail punch I have found has the speed and force needed to set small 18 gauge finish nails when they fail to go all the way in.
Thanks for sharing.
I have the Spring Tools nail set and hinge pin remover and they both work far better than the alternatives I've used in the past.
Amazing the amount of effort put into all your videos. I’m sure it’s appreciated by millions 😊
Thank you very much!
At least it is by me
It'd be cool to see how levels compare, for such a seemingly simple tool there's a ton of options with a huge range of prices. Like on a 48" level there's one at $10 and another at $149
Oh, good idea! Todd reads these for ideas, so he might do it.
Great suggestion! Thanks!
Stabila must be represented with at least 2 models!
@@ProjectFarmseconded.
@@ProjectFarmit will be tricky to do levels, because you might have a brand with really loose quality control, but happen to get one that's exactly correct right out of the box, just by luck.
I’ve had a snap-on center punch for 10 years as a professional metal fabricator. Mostly working with mild steel, I’ve only sharpened it 2-3 times.
Another great video. I use center punches occasionally, but never really thought about "good" vs "bad" ones, so I didn't even know I needed this video. I appreciate your hard work!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I'm surprised to see the dull Starrett punch. I've got a Starrett 18-C punch I purchased in about 2015 or 2016 and it's still pretty sharp.
Thanks for sharing!
I also have and use daily a Starrett 18C. It is probably my favorite punch. It works perfect for aluminum, and steels I use it as a starter punch and follow through with a hammer and traditional punch.
Interestingly enough the tip did get pretty deformed after only a year or so of use. I've had to chick it in a drill to regrind it a few times. Pretty annoying. I guess when it truly wears out I'll have to try finding a replacement.
I honestly thought at first; no way, not going to watch this; way to boring a concept... But then I realized Project Farms made this. 16:45 seconds later, i've again had my eyesight opened to tools that perform exceedingly well, for a fraction of the cost. Surprised HF's center punch wasn't used and 2) I now know I need a 'spring punch'. Thanks again Sir, as always, you teach so much to the YT world that tunes in. We're wizer for your shared reviews!
You are welcome!
At this point , like 90% of my garage tools are solely purchased because they passed the Project Farm test.
Wow, thank you for sharing!
I mean this… only Todd could make me watch a video about center punches… to completion. >.
lol. Thank you!
I've never bought a center punch in my life. I still have the one we had to make in High School Machine Shop class back in 1976. Has been in my tool box for 40+ years as a mechanic. Has only needed a handful of resharpening. Thank you Mr Fetter(teacher).
Thanks for sharing.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:00 The video is testing the performance of different manual and automatic center punches.
00:27 The least expensive brand tested is Mayhew Tools, priced at $19 for four punches.
01:10 Wild Tool, priced at $8, performed well and left a 0.0385 inch crater.
01:36 Klein Tools, also priced at $8, had a small bounce but performed similarly to Wild Tool.
02:04 Williams Brand, priced at $10, had a small jump and left a 0.0335 inch crater.
02:18 GearWrench, priced at $14, performed well with a small bounce and a 0.0355 inch crater.
02:32 Stanley Proto, priced at $14, had a small bounce and left a 0.0385 inch crater.
02:47 Starrett Brand, priced at $17, made the deepest indentation at 0.0395 inches.
03:02 Hazet Brand, priced at $17, matched Starrett at 0.041 inches.
03:15 Sabrecut Extreme, priced at $48, also performed well with a 0.0295 inch crater.
03:28 Stahlwille Brand, priced at $50, had a 0.0415 inch crater.
03:42 Snap-on Brand, though more expensive, performed well with a 0.032 inch indentation.
04:10 Automatic Center Punches were also tested, with varying results in performance.
05:07 Spring Tools performed the best among automatic punches with a 0.028 inch indentation.
05:37 Nico Brand had a spring tension adjustment and performed at 0.0245 inches.
06:05 General Tools Brand performed at 0.0255 inches on hard materials.
06:33 Sabrecut Extreme also performed well with a 0.0295 inch indentation.
07:28 Comparison of performance on mild steel, medium hardness steel, and very hard steel was done.
16:37 Overall, Starrett Brand and Spring Tools performed well in the tests.
Made with HARPA AI
Regarding the Starrett automatic center punch, I had to check mine to make sure, but you definitely received one that was used or damaged. Mine has a perfectly sharp tip on it. Possible someone attempted to use it on something very hard, and then returned it as if it was never used. Granted, I use mine for mostly aluminum, so I'm not sure you'd see that much better results outside of aluminum.
Some nice options otherwise!
Thanks for sharing!
That's part of the test though, When you spend for a starrett you are paying for QA.... or should be. I'm sure a review unit would have been perfect, but that's why it's so important to just buy it and see what you actually get in the box as a consumer. In this case, a POS... super disappointing, I expected starrett to run away with this.
@@tshackeltonYes if purchased direct from the manufacturer, but I’ve gotten (and returned) some questionable items from Amazon and other retailers.
Todd, Agreed - you might want to check with Starrett on that auto center punch - looks like someone may have abused it and sent it back to wherever you purchased it from. I wholeheartedly agree with your no-gifts stance for testing, but when something is as off-kilter as this, you would be doing us, your viewers, a disservice to not check/confirm your results with the manufacturer. It is very possible you have a forgery as well.
I think you deserve a ton of respect for ingenuity on your testing setups. It really shows tools in real world scenarios!!!! Love your work!!!!!
Thanks so much!
I haven't personally used a single "store bought" punch ever since I made my own, from a piece of the suspension spring on a car. It's been over a year since I made it and i've used it A LOT and i've never resharpened it. Works absolutely amazing
Same
Show us. Got a video?
Same. I like using 4340 or O1 to make center punches, drift punches, pin punches, roll punches, chisels, etc... My starret punches sit in the toolbox, primarily because they're round and roll around while I'm working.
I have a couple of overload springs a buddy gave me when he busted one. Working it is real drama, unless it's annealed. I will try using that material next time.
@@stevenkelby2169 I don't have any pictures or videoes unfortunately. I could make a video of it being used though
@@andreashenriksen1485 Thanks! Even just a rough description of the way you made it?
The Gedore 101(similar to the Sabrecut model) and Starrett 18C are excellent automatic center punches.
This specific blunt tip on the Starrett model used in this testing is designed for large diameter drill bits and softer materials. But they have sharper tips as well.
I love my 18C! On aluminum it's perfect by itself, and it's quite precise for steel as well. Sometimes I follow through with a regular punch and hammer, but only if I'm doing something larger or really thick steel
Thanks for sharing!
Yea, my Starrett 18C has a sharp tip I wondered if he got a used tool when he showed that tip. Because all of those automatic punches don’t leave quite as deep punch as the manual ones, I usually deepen my center punch but I think it’s easier to locate the original punch with the slimmer automatic one.
Thanks for sharing!
I agree with what ffontana is saying. There are many varieties of Starrett auto punches. I think the one you were testing with here is recommended for wood in their documentation
I have the Gedore and like it a lot.
I'll vouch for the Starrett 18A auto punch's durability, still going strong after 30+ years of hard use. I think its had maybe 10 tips over the years and I grind them till they can't be used anymore.
Thanks for the feedback.
Maybe I need a Starrett. I've never had an autopunch work for long. And I've used lots of them.
@@anvilsvs Yes you do, at the risk of sounding like an add. I would get the bigger unit though, I have had some times were I wished for a little more "wallop" than the 18-A could deliver. Other than that it seems to be a lifetime unit.
I think the one he bought was a lemon; Starrett has always been reliable to me.
As other comments mentioned, tip durability, especially for the loaded punches would be an ESSENTIAL factor. I find that using a loaded punch is much much more convenient that having to hit the classic punch with a hammer. For harder materials (or if i want a larger spot) I just spring punch a few times in the same spot and thats it. Thats why durability of those tipos is critical.
Thanks for the feedback.
I’m so glad you did this comparison. Two takeaways come to mind immediately- 1. The Starrett brand surprised me the most by its under performance, and 2. I have bought a couple of different brands of spring loaded automatic punches over the years, and have returned almost as many. So many have failed to “cock or recock” when used. Another RUclipsr remarked that customers should buy three or four of the Harbor Freight ones and keep the one that works. My sentiments exactly.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
bradbyers7505
I agree, but you can apply this logic to most any other brand compared to buying snap on brand, it's not just HF brand .
This negates the main convenience "advantage" of buying overpriced snap on tools.
You already have 2 to 6 of the same tool for backup for immediate use VS waiting a week or more for the truck to arrive.
I've had both the manual and auto Starrett punches since the 70's, never had a problem with either, and my auto came with a point from new. Obviously the manual punch is better on tool steels than the auto, horses for courses.
I have the starrett auto, it is supposed to come with a sharp tip. They should send you another one
Lol, sounds like a sports announcer. Better than any sports game I've ever watched.
Thanks!
Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!
@@ProjectFarm When I send you $20 do you actaully get $20?
Good analysis video. My experiences are similar to your results, and curious about different brands you tested. Many modern alloys are a challenge to center punch.
manual punches are a must have, the automatics have let me down and I end up using a manual. I’ve used, abused, and destroyed several automatics. The Starret wins because they replaced, or provided a repair kit promptly. The automatics are useful for multiple one handed punches on softer metals and that’s their limit.
The manual Starret and Snap-on have stood the test of time, some are 50+ years and still going. However I have ruined several of both on very hard steel alloys.
Good video, and thanks a lot for saving me from endlessly searching for an automatic for use on hard metals.
I have a whole set of the Starrett manual punches. I like the sharpness of the tip. It’s great for projects that need more accuracy
Thanks for sharing!
I am going out and getting the Stahwille. I've bluntened heaps of centre punches.
I also like the Spring centre punch. I've had a go with one and it works well and have great control.
Thanks for sharing.
So I have the Starrett automatic centre punch (when I got it, there were two choices of spring tension, and I bought the heavier of them).
My punch head (still) looks dramatically more pointed than the one as seen in test.
I do find it at the highest tension setting to be overly heavy for the size hole it punches. However, I think I may have only once experienced a punched hole that was not sufficient for stopping a drill bit from walking over the face.
Thanks for the test! Logical, but still somewhat surprising results!
Edit: stuttering thumb with StarretT
I've also got the Sterrett Auto spring punch. The tip on it is not blunt like the one you used. You may have received a faulty product. Maybe you can get it exchanged for a sharp tipped product and retry the tests. 16:45
I concur. My 15 year hold Starrett auto punch has a sharp point (still). I would say PF received a defective punch.
Thank you for the big efforts each week!!!!
Cheers from Italy!!!!
Greetings and thank you very much!
🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹😎✌️
As always great video !
Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!
Good comparison, thanks Todd! Too bad about that automatics Starrett having a terrible tip as shipped. I would have loved to see how well a resharpened tip would have performed.
Thank you for the video idea!
Would love to see the PB swiss punches tested, I've used both their steel and carbide tipped punches and have found I prefer them slightly to snap on punches. The fit and finish is exceptionally good :)
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm adding some euro-made center punches from Facom, Rennsteig or Eclipse to the PB Swiss would be great as would be a few automatic japanese ones from SunFlag and Vessel along with some OEMs like the Fowler branded ones sold in the US. don't forget to test the cheap chinese/HF stuff too! 😉
To armchair quarterback, I've found that it's so easy to do multiple hits with automatic center punches. I know that could also be done with a manual center punch but it's really easy to just push that automatic one down a couple of time. It would be interesting to have seen what a 2nd strike for some of those automatic center punches would have done.
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
As always thanks a lot Todd for what I know will be a fantastic test. VERY IMPRESSIVE
Thank you very much!
With automatic punches you might want to also test the mechanism durability. I have gone through a few, they just don't strike anymore or only do so sometimes at a weird angle. I've only used them in aluminium and some mild steel, so the tips are usually in perfect condition but that is not any help when the tool beomes a scribe with suspension ^^
been using a Starrett-made Würth rebrand for close to 15 years now and no problem with mechanism durability, same with a couple of made in Japan Sunflag models, 185 and 188, the first one being carbide tipped and no problem with those two too. i'm sure other manufacturers make good, durable ones but it might take a bit of research and testing to find them. 😗👌
quick tip for reducing punch head mushrooming: use a hard plastic no rebound hammer, the PB Swiss ones with the discs inside are really good but most will do with manual center punches when using the propper size. same with and impact driver, it does prolong their life greatly. 😉👍
Years ago 1977 when my hair wasn’t grey.I worked in a shipyard and I required a centre punch. A much wiser man sent me to the machine shop to request a centre punch to keep in my tool pouch. I was told to speak to a specific individual who obviously had many more years of experience than my 20 years. This gentleman took me to a bin and picked out a broken tap, he proceeded to grind a the tap making me one of the best centre punches I’ve ever owned. Sadly that punch walked away and never returned. Taps are brittle wear your safety glasses when striking any punch. Love the channel your videos never get old.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Tod I think your the only guy in the world who has ever tested center punches like this. Good work. For myself, I just buy what’s at the store that day. When it loses the tip I grind it back and temper it with a torch and oil. Works pretty good.
Thank you!
Great testing as always! An extremely useful tool to have on hand when you need to drill holes in steel at a precise location.
Thanks!
I've got the woodworking version of the Spring Tools one with a nail set on the other end, it's a fantastic tool that doesn't require a hammer for marking drilling points in wood and drywall.
Thanks for sharing.
In the battle of the 'manual punches', it's truly poetic justice that the Stahlwille came out on top by delivering a celestial body-sized blow! For those counting on automatic efficiency, the sprint tool gave a 'spring' to everyone’s steel-lifting dreams! Not sure if it's the muscle in the tools or the weight of the Todd's words, but something’s surely been hammered home today!
You sound ridiculous.
Good as always, however I believe the bounce in your first test is a function of where it hits on the length of the aluminum plank, therefore introduces errors to the testing you did. I think you should have secured the test pieces to control results.
For the automatic punches, I am interested to see how they ranked based upon feel, like I could see the Spring Tool punch causing finger fatigue from the vibrations on impact.
Also, some of the bounce witnessed on manual punches could be the result of how far they were from the end of the sample material
Thanks for the feedback!
I would love to see a comparison on roll punches!! I've spent too much money on roll punches that bend or mushroom! Love the content, keep it up!
Thanks for sharing!
to limit punch head mushrooming, try using a no rebound plastic tipped hammer. same with an impact driver. 😉
@kittytrail Thanks for the advice, I've been using a brass gunsmithing hammer. I should have probably clarified, but the actual punch side is the one I'm having issues with mushrooming. I appreciate it.
@@reddubzsmash6889 if they mushroom on the flat that is in contact with the roll pin and if you're in the US or in a place with a good truck or industrial dealer, get Snap-on (or some other lifetime warrantied quality ones of your choice) and warranty them when needed as, in the long run, it'll probably be cheaper. good job on using a brass hammer on 'em. 😗👌
edit: if it's the pin that mushrooms it's probably either because you're not careful enough with their handling, placement before whackin' and/or storage or because the pin diameter isn't adequate. if the later, try different makes 'til you find the right one for your job, if former, mend your evil ways! 🤭
Perfect timing I was just about to buy a new center punch!
Great to hear!
I've been using the harbor freight automatic punch for years. I'm happy with the performance for $3.99.
Thanks for sharing!
That Starrett auto punch does NOT look like the product pictures, which show it needle sharp. Counterfeit, QA problem, used/damaged item, I’m not sure, but it’s too bad it wasn’t sent back for a proper replacement.
The angle degree of the punch point is also a factor that many overlook
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm anytime I'm a big fan of the channel keep up the great work Farm
Starrett is one of those brands that ages like whiskey, I bought a hole saw kit 15 years ago, still works wonderfully.
Yes exactly, I think the auto Starrett had a manufacturing issue or was fake
Thanks for the feedback.
Project farm gives EVERYDAY test that people could understand and do themselves
This is why he’s the GOAT
I watch cuz I enjoy the education of the video I don’t use any of this stuff 😂😂😂
Thank you very much!
Surprised the Starrett auto suffered qa/qc issue, but this was still a great test. Thanks, Todd!!
It was probably a counterfeit
No problem!
these are really impressive results. a 0.03"-0.04" punch is significant. that would literally go all the way through some automotive body pannels
Thanks for the feedback.
When I worked as a toolmaker, I used a pointed gun tap. The advantage is the point is precision ground. Disadvantage is the brittle HSS. However, I’d make a light punch with the tap, then a normal centre punch to deepen the mark.
Been WAITING for this!🤘
Thank you!🍻
Auto punches are great tools for firefighters to break glass.
You bet!
@@ProjectFarmI once went down a rabbit hole on emergency tools, like the hammer-shaped window breaker and seatbelt cutter that doesn't do any good sitting by my computer.
Everyone said to just use a bit of broken ceramic from a spark plug, but when I looked into that it was far more difficult than they made it seem--of course.
Mr. Todd, Sir, will you please compare emergency automotive tools? Thanks! :D
@@drippingwax Yes, that is a great idea.
@@drippingwaxMy knives have had glass breakers on them for years.
I got sick of auto punches breaking on me. Even my nice Starrett one is constantly misfiring now. I started using a hammer/punch combo again.
Thanks for sharing!
Did your starrett rust up quickly? I felt mine rusted up in no time.
I have the Spring Tools "spring punch" and it's major problem is operating it so it hit exactly where you want it. Also, it would be near imposible to use properly if you were working in tight spaces as it requires 2 hands to be on the tool.
@@SammyInnit it did not, I'm basically in a desert so the low humidity may play a role. There's supposed to be a piece inside that wears down that causes misfires on most of these, but it wasn't that either. I just quit trying to figure it out.
I have a centre punch which has lasted the test of time .A Mechanical Fitter in the 1950s used a coal cutter pick as a centre punch .He passed it on to me in the late 60s and I still use it to this day .I have used the punch many thousands of times in those 50 odd years marking out 8 x10 inch girders , Drilling 1 inch holes .The coal cutter pick is still like new .It has a tungsten tip on it .Even the striking end is still undamaged. I would strike it 3 times to make a good indentation for a 1 inch drill with a 2 LB Hammer. I have a smaller cutter pick from the 50s for more precision work, still like new also .Love all your videos , they are the best ...
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
One of the things that videos like this demonstrates very well is that the price of a tool is not automatically indicative of its quality. Great testing as always. Thanks for another informative video.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I was thinking the same thing. The best tools are usually expensive. But all the expensive tools aren't always the best.
Great as always!
I sometimes see people measuring things with cheap digital calipers; I wonder how much uncertainty is present in those measurements and whether a tester using correct technique on precisely calibrated materials could suss out the differences between, say, Starrett and a budget product. Also could compare dial- vs. slide-calipers. Thanks for all the testing!!
Thank you for the video idea!
When I saw the Starrett thumbnail for this video, I had to check my tool bag to make sure the center punch I made in high school machine shop back in the 70s hadn't been magically spirited away. I had copied the design from a punch my father-a tool & die maker for GM-had in his home tool collection. I did the lathe work in school, and he taught me techniques for oil hardening it at home. It's a cherished possession, and is still going strong 45+ years later.
Best center punch is made often from other tooling .... A SDS drill bit top is one of the best options .
35 years plating and welding and i still use the same centre punch i made from a SDS drill bit nearly 30 years ago .
Well I have something to do tomorrow morning in my shop!
Todd love the content! As a contractor I’d love a comparison of different 14” diamond blade concrete saw blades. They vary immensely in terms of $$ and design.
Thanks for the video idea. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have the spring tools 2 piece set. I use the punch often, especially in tight places you cant swing a hammer. But I really enjoy the flat head punch for pushing door hinge pins. It is "very impressive." Thank you for your no-nonsense reviews.
Door hinge pins and I found a drawer pull as well.
I feel like one of the most important features of a center punch is its ability to center the drill where you want it, so if you were to do center punches again, maybe you could test how much deviation from the intended spot the dent is / where the drill would be put relative to where it is desired and how much the drill bit could move (this might be hard to test, as you would have to mark and punch at an exact spot where you could locate where it is supposed to be and where it is after)
For example, duller tips might allow the drill to move around, or a center punch might not create a divot with the right geometry to properly center the bit.
Thank you for the video idea!
I've never seen that Spring Tools punch before. I can definitely see more than one use case for that. For $15 it's something I'm absolutely going to pick up. Thanks!
I've heard spring punches are really powerful (and better than an automatic) but this showed it.
Pretty versatile too, you can get into tight places where a hammer won't go, or an automatic doesn't hit hard enough.
My pleasure!
Those are awesome for setting brads, nails etc in very tight spaces. Typically where is no room to use hammer
I've not seen it as a centre-punch before, but I have seen something very similar used by pentesters to knock out the hinge-pins on doors, and it works really well
Hey Todd, could you do a test on trickle chargers please. Coming up on winter and I'd like to see which are better than others. Thanks for all the great videos!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Pump sprayers? DB Smith or Chapin? Something else?
Thank you for the video idea!
Hudson has got to be in there! 😎✌️
Suggested Video - 4 stroke 10w40 Motorcycle Engine Oil test:
-Lucas
-Mobile 1 Racing 4T
-Castrol Actevo 4T
-Royal Purple Max Cycle
-Valvoline
-Quicksilver
-Motul 300V 4T
-Maxima Premium 4
-Liqui Moly 4T
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Thank you for the video idea!
I have used a General tool auto punch for over 20 years on all types of steels and metals and it still works perfectly. I am very pleased to see it in this comparison. Thanks as always for being so thorough.
You are welcome!
I've found that buying the cheapest is sometimes the best option because every time I've purchased a nice one, it's ended up misplacing itself in someone elses toolbox. 😂
Truth!
Thanks for sharing!
Funny how we never know where our nice tools are 😂
As always, you think out the testing extremely well. 🏆
My pleasure!
When I was training to be an EMT one of the go-to tools we carried for extrications from accident vehicles was a spring-loaded center punch. It would turn a vehicle side window into a cobweb without bursting the window and sending broken glass into the vehicle interior. It was a quick and simple job to pull the glass outward, away from the accident victim. No worries about how well the tip would hold up over time. I still have one that's about 20 years old, but now all I use it for is starting holes for driving wood screws and drywall screws into wood and it still does the job. (No idea what brand it is. Probably the cheapest one they had at Lowe's or Home Depot....)
Thanks for sharing.
Notification SQUAD!!! Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
Thank you and I wish you a great weekend too!
The biggest advantage of using an automatic center punch is accuracy, the ability to use one hand, and get awkward or tight spaces. I feel like the spring tools is not good competition as it does not help with these things and therefore is the worst of both worlds. I often will use an auto punch to accurately and conveniently mark the center, and then deepen it with a bigger manual punch. Therefore, the criteria are really different between the two styles and the spring tool loses in my opinion .
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
I am more comfortable punching accurate markings with an manual punch. I also dislike the feeling in the hand, when an automatic punch strikes
Once again, your channel proven it's the most useful whensomeone collect info before buying tools.
Also we've seen once again: not always the most expensive tool is the best.
Thank you!
You are welcome!
Notification Squad WYA?
Thank you very much!
i got a suggestion? DO AN EXPERIMENT TWICE EXACTLY THE SAME
Thanks for the suggestion.
0:18 project farm has discovered that a lot of us don't actually know what these things he tests are, we just watch because it's interesting
Thanks@
a Center punch was one of the first lessons I did during my training. Made from 1.2210 turned, knurled, hardened and tempered. I still used it today but had to sharpen it a few times.
Thanks for sharing.
Great video as always! Would love to see a comparison between 13 gallon trash bag please!
Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.
Hi. Long nose pliers could be a interesting product to probe. There are many brands and some of them get bend very easy.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Great job as usual
Thanks!
You've done a lot of videos that deal with oils. How about comparisons of things that clean oil/grease? Degreasers, laundry soaps, and hell even dish washing liquid comparisons from you would be mighty interesting to see.
Hello again, Project Farm
Thank you for another Great Video 👍
You are welcome!
This channel is my one-stop product review channel.
If Todd hasn't done a video on it, I'm never truly sure if it's quality or not.
As much as I love tools Im in the market for a spot carpet cleaner. Right now its between the Rug Doctor Pet or Kenmore units. Would love to see a review of these two units mixed in with Bissell, Hoover, Dirt Devil and various Amazon china specials.
Thanks for the suggestion.