Yeah, I kind of regret doing all that beautiful chipping by brush on the turret only to cover 90% of it all with the dust effects. My plan was for a dusty tank in the end...so sadly the chipping had to go. Hopefully next time we can do more chipping and have the results pay off :)
I know how it feels like mate! But remember, a lot of the chipping can still be seen through the dust and comes together fantastically. And that’s what this model is: fantastic!
Even for the spots that don't show through- at least you caught them on video! And great practice, the next time you do some two tone brush chipping you'll have that much more foundation to stand on
Panzermeister36 the dusty effects are great... I think dust (on the horizontal surfaces and in crevices... not dirt in the running gear) is something most modellers don’t pay enough attention to. The flat surfaces on real tanks were often coated in dust.
Amazing, simply amazing! Nothing is overdone or overweathered, just like the tank should look! Well done, the tutorial is very welcome and can't wait for the next video.
Thanks for another first class tutorial packed full of very helpful information. I have really been struggling with weathering and going back to this and your other videos has really helped.
Great video. Very inspirational. Thank you for your detailed explanations and practical tips. I'm returning to modelling after a 40 year break and building my first ever tank 🙃
This is the first video of yours I have come across. You are a very good and knowledge on your subject. A good instructor. I have just learned a lot from the video. Thanks for your time and knowledge. I have subscribed to your channel. Hope to see more. You stay safe and happy
Good work Panzer , will be adding some of these touches to my recently built Tamiya's new KV1 ! However ! That comment on Vallejo's paints- Ouch !! Please explain ! Best as usual! Edward.
Hi, it's excellent painting as usual. Especially, I'm interested in weathering of flat plane that's ceiling of turret and upper hull. The moisture doesn't flow in one direction on flat face. So, I love your way of weathering of flat face. Anyway, I always enjoy your video. Thanks for uploading.
Thank you for the video. I find you are the best on youtube that teaches me how to paint the tank model properly and I do learn lots of techniques from your detailed instruction. Awesome!
Superb model, phenomenal work and excellent camera work, as always my friend! Think it's about time we see some Wiking and/or Nordland heavies! 🤜🏻🤛🏻👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻
Been wanting to do Soviet armour for some time now. You've done a very thorough job in recreating just how realistic one may be done. Have to research the units who had these at the beginning of the Great Patriotic War since the Russian Red Army retired the few remaining KV tanks during the 1st year of their operations because the design's flaws. Very good instruction. Thank you.
Excellent result! It's allways nice to see what can be done to make a large "boring" vehicle look that interesting. Very good tutorial / guidance for projects to come. Thank you for makeing these vids mate, looking forward to next one.
I think that wear and chipping down to a red primer makes the model "look" more plasticky than it should. I prefer wear and chipping effects that goes down to a silver or steel color by dry or semi-dry brushing, with only a hint of primer red-brown at a few random spots to hint at the presence of a primer. Some of these are then dry brushed with Gunze rust, some are not, to simulate fresh and older wear throughs. -- When I started in the 1980s I did not have an airbrush and I found spray cans too thick and covered up too much detail. So I used to triple dilute the paint and hand paint the model in four or sometimes five coats to get a brush stroke free surface appearance. One thing I could do back then because the paint was put on in many layers, was do some heavy dry brushing before the final layer which is thin enough that a lot of the silver or rust effects barely shows through the main coat. This is then finished with additional dry brushing on top of the final coat of paint. It is more three dimensional and looks quite convincing. The problem of course was that it's very hard to do the late war German three color camouflage patterns without an airbrush, so I simply didn't do it. I stuck with the field grey era stuff and if I did the late war stuff, I simply did the winter schemes with white and weathering over dark yellow.
I am currently also working on a KV-1 tank (German booty variant) model 1941-42 in 1:16 by Heng long RC!. And 1:16 is already huge compared to 1:35, I do the rough steel or cast structure with the Plastic Putty from Vallejo. Today there are still individual parts that had to be ordered that were missing.
Loving the mud effects. I've always wanted to get a wet/dry effect but found the premixed wet mud products too glossy. This pigment approach is awesome.
Very nice work. I'll even allow for artistic license regarding the horrible track tension allowed by the Tank Commander (track tension is one of my pet peeves - both on my models and on my actual tank). Of course, maybe you could do a diorama with the TC making his crew "get right on that". But really, good job!
Nice job. Always a bit difficult to revisit a model you have partially finished in the past. Or; at least, it is for me. There was usually a reason you didn't finish it, to begin with. Sometimes I will get one out and use it to experiment with a technique I am not quite sure about. In any event, that is an excellent result. Interesting about that brand of metal tracks. About all I have ready access to is the usual Fruil. Great job, today.
I agree! I think I gave up on this one as I wasn't sure how to approach the weathering of the unique repainted finish. Also the R-model tracks are great. I've ordered a few sets from China before Covid...not sure how easily they are to get now though.
I am new in building tank models and i hoop to get as good as you are, damn nice model it’s become. Thank you for showing us howe it’s done.......BIG LIKE from a new modeler and follower
Oh man, how i love KV's. The thing you have for StuG's, i have for KV's haha. My next project will be the last KV-2 in 1943. Great video my friend, very informative! Wilders KV-1 tutorial series is great also, i also like to watch those video's when im building a kit!
I have another KV project to work on soon :) it will be a unique model in the end I hope. Also... I can't wait for RFM to release that KV-1 they announced a little while ago!
@@Panzermeister36 Hmm you got my attention haha :D Yeah, i'm still waiting for the RFM KV-1 as well. Trumpeter's kits are pretty good but i think the RFM KV will cast its shadow over them. ;)
I've got so many projects "planned" out :) KV-1E...T-34/57...King Tiger...Panther...Jagdtiger...StuG IV...plus some shelf queens to finish. I want to build them all right now 😅 if only I had infinite time!
Excellent video, thanks - I really enjoyed it. Just ordered Tamiya's new KV1 - looks to be a good one. I shall be trying that VMS Oil Expert for sure. Cheers.
I can tell you, when I was modeling back in middle school and high school, even the random time or two in college... I would use acrylics for washes for a few reasons (none of them being good reasons mind you! Haha) 1st: It's just what I had. Most of my paints were not hobby specific paints, they were acrylic craft paints I stole from my mom or they were tube acrylics for more traditional artist's work. The enamels I had were the Testors brand and I never thinned them, these were the "sloping brushloads of paint over the model" days. But when I did get into washes, the only thinner I had was water. I didn't think to use enamel brush cleaner as a thinner. Even though I didn't care about fumes or whatever as a kid, even that stuff was pretty harsh where I wasn't trying to breathe it in all day. 2nd: When I did finally get some Mig Productions pre- thinned enamel washes, I never really understood the product. And what I mean by that was first of all, I never shook them up to their full potential, so they were very sporadic in terms of actual opacity. And then only within the last 2 years or so (really because of Adam's KV-1 tutorial ironically enough) I really, finally got it sunk into my thick skull that the idea for the wash wasn't just to do it and clean it up as fast as you can before it dries (like you would do with an acrylic paint wash)- but let it dry! Then come back later and reactivate and remove what's excess. So Adam's KV videos woke me up to that, and then your pin wash videos and Martin really drove it home over the last year or two. So I'm a full convert now. Pin washes for everything. Anyway- I'm only 13:25 in to your video so I will get back to the rest. Love all the dirt tones on the horizontal surfaces. Some really nice effects, also reminds me of the Sturm... 33B you did. 👍🏻
Thank you Chris! I started out using acrylics when I was first modelling...7 years ago or so. But I quickly got my hands on some AK streaking grime enamels and figured out the wash stuff from there. Guess I was lucky to have all these great modelling brands and specialty products around when I was just starting up.
@@Panzermeister36 I'm sure some hobby specific stuff was around when I was getting into seriously building and weathering as a kid, but I think I was much more close minded about new techniques and truly putting in the effort to try new products and develop new ways of thinking. I eventually did stumble into oil paints for washes just because their long drying time still allowed me to clean up and blend out colors while it was wet. But enamels have some different properties that are pretty useful.
Looks great. I was wondering where did you purchase the VMS products from. They seem to be becoming more popular and I was thinking of giving them a try. Thanks.
Hi Ev, how are you and your family doing, all fit and well I hope. You know how much I think of you with how many times you helped me without realising. Anyway, can I ask, do you dampen your surface in the areas you add the wash? I never have and my wash, after cleaning it up, sometimes won't remove the excess wash and at times looks crap. I just was thinking if I start to do that it may help? One more, I promise. I cannot, anywhere find out, if the Tirans when, the T55, T54s, T62s etc etc, do you think or know if most would of arrived with the Russian Green as their base coats and once they say, applied their colours, even the Lebanese, when chipped it would be the green, that comes through I can't decide as at and it's really getting me down.
Its not finnished, she needs a headlight lens, or was it shot out completely? Very inspirering work for those like myself who don"t always have every new product that comes on the market!!
Great video, thank you for sharing. Question for you, do you use any other fixer on your mud and dust effects when complete? Or does the enamel product you use do the job of fixing them fully?
It's Trumpeter's KV-1 Model 1942 Heavy Cast Turret kit. I added aftermarket metal tracks and I also added the cast texture to the turret. Otherwise it is out-of-the-box.
Hi PanzerMeister36! Did you apply a varnish between the acrylics and the oil paints? Maybe I missed that. Do you have an idea of how to apply a varnish without an airbrush? Mine always comes out streaky when I apply it with a brush...
I don't think I applied a varnish. I rarely will since it's a waste of time. Oils won't damage acrylics, unless you're using weak and poor quality paints like Vallejo. And you can also get varnishes that come in spray cans for models. Testors, Mr. Hobby, Tamiya, all make good ones.
hi my friend !! 🙂 I have a question.. I really like your works and video, very inspiring!...and I'd like to ask you if you use pigment fixer... or not... and why? 😛 I usually use it , but the color of the pigment always go in a darker tone, once dry !! 😞 I have try not to use it, (only enamel thinner) but -once dry- pigments fly away at the minimum touch 😢 can you help me? thanx a lot !!!
Hello! Yes I can help you. I usually do not use a fixer for the reasons you mentioned. Instead, I apply a matter varnish beforehand. This add a texture to the model that the pigments hold on to quite well. It's not perfect but it works for me. Additionally, I usually apply my pigments on the model with enamel mud effects still slightly wet, so when the enamel mud wash dries it also holds onto the pigments a little bit. I believe I showed that in this video :) I hope this helps you out!
@@Panzermeister36 Hi! ..first of all, thanks for your quick reply. you've been very kind. yes , yes ..I saw the video and how you use the engine grime effect, as a fixer. I immediately tried it too and I like it. 😅😅 Next time I want to try using pigments by mixing them with mig olibrush! 🤔 ...otherwise, I Guess the only alternative would be to recolor and lighten the pigments after they have dried .. sigh 😓 in the meantime, thanks again. Hello from Italy....and Sorry for my english 😅😅😅🙈🙈 Ciao
@@Panzermeister36 well they have a slightly longer range than that. but not a Russian designer so i don't know why they stuck it on there probally some committee member wanted it. An even bigger flaw in the design of the KV-1, KV-2 and T-34 was the 2 man turret it meant that rate of fire was lowered and the commander was having to double duty.
Part way through, the top of the hull seemed to take on a more green colour like it hadnt been over painted with the grey. Is that just a trick of the light with the dust?
I think it's more that I adjusted (corrected) my lighting at one point since I was weathering this over a period of a few months. During my Tiger series I changed it, so that occurred part way through this build as well.
Hi mate, happy new year I have a question about this kit if you can shed alittle light!? I'm building it just now and just noticed the rear drive sprockets are in different places on each side the left further out than the right side? Was the kv like this or a flaw in the kit?
Hello. Happy new year :) the sprockets should be in the same place, but they might appear different since the road wheels are offset on one side. This is because the torsion arms have to be offset along the hull floor. If you look from the bottom that should be apparent.
@@Panzermeister36 yeah I see that my left one I'm sure is further out the rear than the other side I'm sure it is just by a mil or something but was noticable when looked at it from the bottom there, I'm just trying to find a level to make sure haha! Either that or the teeth are to long on one of my sprockets I cam notice it and need to sort it or will bug me haha
See i have my fenders cut at the rear and one bit off the front so the sprockets are right out there on show! See cutting out them rear grills for abit of PE mesh that was a job and a half lol I've got a barrel for this tank in the parts box actually forgot about that being metal barrel should look better than this one! I have the KV2 kit to do after it and a T26 for a diorama with a bail out crew so some thinking is needed it's nearly 3am now and still up modelling haha
hey so you don't have an issue with the base coat rubbing off after you use the enamel thinner for pin wash and clean up since you dont apply a varnish as you stated at the 5:50 time slot?
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the reply. Theres a hobby store called wheelswingshobbies in toronto and they have a brand new used tamiya -156A tiger tank from 1975. any thoughts on those kits?
Hi i build the same tank it's the Pz.KPfw.I like a KV1 Rusian capterd tank . and i used the RAL 7020 as recomanded ,but your is lighter then mine . Why ? I used as primer the Vallejo 70.605 like rust color. Is that the reason ? Yours is much more real
Probably not. One of the key steps for HS chipping is to not apply a very thick coating of paint over the hairspray, otherwise it's very hard to chip. Another key is to avoid using lacquer paints (instead I use alcohol-based ones) since they dry very hard and are difficult to chip. Spray cans are usually lacquer-based paints and always apply in thick layers, so that's two strikes against it.
Okay excellent, thanks! I’m currently building my first tank kit, i’ll probably have to try and do some brush chipping. I’m building the monogram m48a2 patton because its all that was locally available. I think watching your videos has turned me from 1/24 muscle cars to armour for sure.
I've based this off references of an actual vehicle, a KV-1 cast turret of the same type numbered 216. A cupola would be cool and is often seen, but not on this one :)
@@Panzermeister36 ah ok, well ill give you a pass on this one lol, so you think next time maybe you can make some field mods? good looking model bro, recently just got back in to the hobby after a long absences, like 20 years, life happens. i do have a question, working on a 1/48th fokker tri plane you know anywhere i can get paint schemes and or paint matching? i want to do a really nice job on its paint! and have No examples or places for color matching to simulate IRL
Yeah, I kind of regret doing all that beautiful chipping by brush on the turret only to cover 90% of it all with the dust effects. My plan was for a dusty tank in the end...so sadly the chipping had to go. Hopefully next time we can do more chipping and have the results pay off :)
I know how it feels like mate! But remember, a lot of the chipping can still be seen through the dust and comes together fantastically. And that’s what this model is: fantastic!
This happens to me on every model sadly. Still having it visible in a couple of places satisfies me tho.
Even for the spots that don't show through- at least you caught them on video! And great practice, the next time you do some two tone brush chipping you'll have that much more foundation to stand on
Panzermeister36 the dusty effects are great... I think dust (on the horizontal surfaces and in crevices... not dirt in the running gear) is something most modellers don’t pay enough attention to. The flat surfaces on real tanks were often coated in dust.
Thank you Bruce :)
Bravo... do not regret, this way is MORE REALISTIC, it is very good. Most of the time chipping ( let alone extensive one!) is UNREALISTIC
Amazing, simply amazing! Nothing is overdone or overweathered, just like the tank should look! Well done, the tutorial is very welcome and can't wait for the next video.
Thank you so much!
Your tank model is one of the rare, where worn metal surfaces don`t look "fancy", but like used metal surfaces! Great work, pal!
Thank you!
I love these complete videos. Most of my skills now are based on watching you work.
Great work Evan.
This video gave me the confidence to paint my 1/35 Dicker Max, thanks man
It's fantastic! A more realistic tank model is simply not possible to make!It's great!
Nice to see how good it came out! Cast affect is terrific.
Thanks for another first class tutorial packed full of very helpful information. I have really been struggling with weathering and going back to this and your other videos has really helped.
Great video. Very inspirational. Thank you for your detailed explanations and practical tips. I'm returning to modelling after a 40 year break and building my first ever tank 🙃
By this time you had mastered the skill at a very high level. Great job
Thank you very much!
This is the first video of yours I have come across. You are a very good and knowledge on your subject. A good instructor. I have just learned a lot from the video. Thanks for your time and knowledge. I have subscribed to your channel. Hope to see more. You stay safe and happy
This is amazing! The mud and streaks are just, well idk how to describe it! Can’t wait for the next video!
Amazing job! I just started working with oil paints and man what a difference.
Good work Panzer , will be adding some of these touches to my recently built Tamiya's new KV1 !
However ! That comment on Vallejo's paints- Ouch !!
Please explain !
Best as usual!
Edward.
You turned a beutepanzer into a beautpanzer any Aussie would be proud to take home to Mamma! Great video Evan!
A most relistic and gorgeous model, impressive attention to details...😍😍
Thank you for your video, Evan! Thanks to you, I start slow but true use oil weathering!
Excellent instructions, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks really good. Nice to see a shelf queen come back for treatment. Great vid thanks for sharing.
Yeah, this year I'm trying to finish off some old shelf queens :) feels good!
Hi, it's excellent painting as usual. Especially, I'm interested in weathering of flat plane that's ceiling of turret and upper hull.
The moisture doesn't flow in one direction on flat face. So, I love your way of weathering of flat face. Anyway, I always enjoy
your video. Thanks for uploading.
Hello and thank you :) I agree, the flat areas are always hard to weather as our usual approach - streaking effects - no longer apply.
Great KV-1 tank , excelent work and great painting and weathering process .👍🏆🥇
Thank you for the video. I find you are the best on youtube that teaches me how to paint the tank model properly and I do learn lots of techniques from your detailed instruction. Awesome!
Thank you!
Thank you so much :)
Great painting and wheathering! I'll try to be inspired by your skill while painting my own 3D-printed 1:10 KV1!
Superb model, phenomenal work and excellent camera work, as always my friend! Think it's about time we see some Wiking and/or Nordland heavies! 🤜🏻🤛🏻👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻
Been wanting to do Soviet armour for some time now. You've done a very thorough job in recreating just how realistic one may be done. Have to research the units who had these at the beginning of the Great Patriotic War since the Russian Red Army retired the few remaining KV tanks during the 1st year of their operations because the design's flaws. Very good instruction. Thank you.
*So realistic KV-1 under german service, a real veteran! Great job! 👍*
Прекрасный результат, и хорошо показан процесс! Спасибо, у вас отличные видео!
Interesting as always to see you procedures and concepts to get to this stunning result!
This was really useful! Your videos are always helpful and awsome to watch, thanks.
Thank you :)
Cool KV man! I like those R Model tracks... the pin detail is awesome. Another winner!
Thanks Scott! I liked the R-Model KV tracks so much I ordered another set....well just wait till tomorrow's video to see what happened there.
Excellent result! It's allways nice to see what can be done to make a large "boring" vehicle look that interesting. Very good tutorial / guidance for projects to come. Thank you for makeing these vids mate, looking forward to next one.
Thank you Kai! It was a fun video to make.
Great job. That weathered tank looks amazing. I happen to weather a 1/16th scale Tamiya KV 1 atm as well. It is great fun.
I think that wear and chipping down to a red primer makes the model "look" more plasticky than it should. I prefer wear and chipping effects that goes down to a silver or steel color by dry or semi-dry brushing, with only a hint of primer red-brown at a few random spots to hint at the presence of a primer. Some of these are then dry brushed with Gunze rust, some are not, to simulate fresh and older wear throughs.
--
When I started in the 1980s I did not have an airbrush and I found spray cans too thick and covered up too much detail. So I used to triple dilute the paint and hand paint the model in four or sometimes five coats to get a brush stroke free surface appearance. One thing I could do back then because the paint was put on in many layers, was do some heavy dry brushing before the final layer which is thin enough that a lot of the silver or rust effects barely shows through the main coat. This is then finished with additional dry brushing on top of the final coat of paint. It is more three dimensional and looks quite convincing. The problem of course was that it's very hard to do the late war German three color camouflage patterns without an airbrush, so I simply didn't do it. I stuck with the field grey era stuff and if I did the late war stuff, I simply did the winter schemes with white and weathering over dark yellow.
another great video. I liked your use of a glossy enamel and pigments to replicate wet mud. I'm going to give that a go
I am currently also working on a KV-1 tank (German booty variant) model 1941-42 in 1:16 by Heng long RC!. And 1:16 is already huge compared to 1:35, I do the rough steel or cast structure with the Plastic Putty from Vallejo. Today there are still individual parts that had to be ordered that were missing.
Loving the mud effects. I've always wanted to get a wet/dry effect but found the premixed wet mud products too glossy. This pigment approach is awesome.
Thank you!
Excellent tutorial. Awesome work! 🤩
Very nice work. I'll even allow for artistic license regarding the horrible track tension allowed by the Tank Commander (track tension is one of my pet peeves - both on my models and on my actual tank). Of course, maybe you could do a diorama with the TC making his crew "get right on that".
But really, good job!
Nice job. Always a bit difficult to revisit a model you have partially finished in the past. Or; at least, it is for me. There was usually a reason you didn't finish it, to begin with. Sometimes I will get one out and use it to experiment with a technique I am not quite sure about. In any event, that is an excellent result. Interesting about that brand of metal tracks. About all I have ready access to is the usual Fruil. Great job, today.
I agree! I think I gave up on this one as I wasn't sure how to approach the weathering of the unique repainted finish.
Also the R-model tracks are great. I've ordered a few sets from China before Covid...not sure how easily they are to get now though.
Great techniques the best you have exhibited to date
Love capture builds. Nicely done.
Thank you!
The more modest weathering makes the model look significantly more realistic.
Thank you! I've been trying to keep that in mind lately :)
I am new in building tank models and i hoop to get as good as you are, damn nice model it’s become.
Thank you for showing us howe it’s done.......BIG LIKE from a new modeler and follower
Well done my Ottawa friend!
I have been waiting for this for a while....Amazing like always
Keep it up
Oh man, how i love KV's. The thing you have for StuG's, i have for KV's haha. My next project will be the last KV-2 in 1943. Great video my friend, very informative! Wilders KV-1 tutorial series is great also, i also like to watch those video's when im building a kit!
I have another KV project to work on soon :) it will be a unique model in the end I hope. Also... I can't wait for RFM to release that KV-1 they announced a little while ago!
@@Panzermeister36 Hmm you got my attention haha :D
Yeah, i'm still waiting for the RFM KV-1 as well. Trumpeter's kits are pretty good but i think the RFM KV will cast its shadow over them. ;)
I've got so many projects "planned" out :) KV-1E...T-34/57...King Tiger...Panther...Jagdtiger...StuG IV...plus some shelf queens to finish. I want to build them all right now 😅 if only I had infinite time!
@@Panzermeister36 Haha, we all have a shortage of time xD
wow. this looks amazing!
Very nice work and cool video
Excellent video, thanks - I really enjoyed it. Just ordered Tamiya's new KV1 - looks to be a good one. I shall be trying that VMS Oil Expert for sure. Cheers.
Fabulous! So realistic, I love it😀
Best videos on youtube
Another fantastic video my friend !!!
I can tell you, when I was modeling back in middle school and high school, even the random time or two in college... I would use acrylics for washes for a few reasons (none of them being good reasons mind you! Haha) 1st: It's just what I had. Most of my paints were not hobby specific paints, they were acrylic craft paints I stole from my mom or they were tube acrylics for more traditional artist's work. The enamels I had were the Testors brand and I never thinned them, these were the "sloping brushloads of paint over the model" days. But when I did get into washes, the only thinner I had was water. I didn't think to use enamel brush cleaner as a thinner. Even though I didn't care about fumes or whatever as a kid, even that stuff was pretty harsh where I wasn't trying to breathe it in all day. 2nd: When I did finally get some Mig Productions pre- thinned enamel washes, I never really understood the product. And what I mean by that was first of all, I never shook them up to their full potential, so they were very sporadic in terms of actual opacity. And then only within the last 2 years or so (really because of Adam's KV-1 tutorial ironically enough) I really, finally got it sunk into my thick skull that the idea for the wash wasn't just to do it and clean it up as fast as you can before it dries (like you would do with an acrylic paint wash)- but let it dry! Then come back later and reactivate and remove what's excess. So Adam's KV videos woke me up to that, and then your pin wash videos and Martin really drove it home over the last year or two. So I'm a full convert now. Pin washes for everything. Anyway- I'm only 13:25 in to your video so I will get back to the rest. Love all the dirt tones on the horizontal surfaces. Some really nice effects, also reminds me of the Sturm... 33B you did. 👍🏻
Thank you Chris! I started out using acrylics when I was first modelling...7 years ago or so. But I quickly got my hands on some AK streaking grime enamels and figured out the wash stuff from there. Guess I was lucky to have all these great modelling brands and specialty products around when I was just starting up.
@@Panzermeister36 I'm sure some hobby specific stuff was around when I was getting into seriously building and weathering as a kid, but I think I was much more close minded about new techniques and truly putting in the effort to try new products and develop new ways of thinking. I eventually did stumble into oil paints for washes just because their long drying time still allowed me to clean up and blend out colors while it was wet. But enamels have some different properties that are pretty useful.
great tutorial
Nice Stuff , always enjoy these how to's .
Thank you!
Muy bien quedó perfecto.
Very realistic well done.
Great video!! This may be a good time for a "Shelf Queen Challenge"??? Thanks for all your great videos!!!! Stay safe!!!
Looks great. I was wondering where did you purchase the VMS products from. They seem to be becoming more popular and I was thinking of giving them a try. Thanks.
Hi Ev, how are you and your family doing, all fit and well I hope. You know how much I think of you with how many times you helped me without realising. Anyway, can I ask, do you dampen your surface in the areas you add the wash? I never have and my wash, after cleaning it up, sometimes won't remove the excess wash and at times looks crap. I just was thinking if I start to do that it may help? One more, I promise. I cannot, anywhere find out, if the Tirans when, the T55, T54s, T62s etc etc, do you think or know if most would of arrived with the Russian Green as their base coats and once they say, applied their colours, even the Lebanese, when chipped it would be the green, that comes through I can't decide as at and it's really getting me down.
Its not finnished, she needs a headlight lens, or was it shot out completely? Very inspirering work for those like myself who don"t always have every new product that comes on the market!!
Thank you! Yes I am still looking for a lens. The proper ones with the patterns molded in are quite expensive aftermarket options.
More Russian tanks please! Always interesting seeing one of these monsters getting dirtied up.
I have a few more Russian tanks to work on soon!
Cool beans!
1 month ago?!
I use RML80 Russian Green from the US olive drab set
is was a pretty relaxing and entertaining video :D
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed :)
Looks awesome! No varnish between paint and pin wash?
Great video, thank you for sharing. Question for you, do you use any other fixer on your mud and dust effects when complete? Or does the enamel product you use do the job of fixing them fully?
The enamel holds it on pretty well :)
More like WEHR PATTERNS!!
I'll see myself out
No don't leave 😅 that was pretty good!
Watching Nov 8th 2021 to learn how to paint a Beutepanzer. In my case soon starting a Pz.742(r), a captured BT-7, soon.
I hope you've found the video helpful!
Nicely done! I enjoy modeling with Russian and German armor. Which KV-1 version is this and which model company?
It's Trumpeter's KV-1 Model 1942 Heavy Cast Turret kit. I added aftermarket metal tracks and I also added the cast texture to the turret. Otherwise it is out-of-the-box.
How many hours does IT take yOu to make this model excluding drying time
Woww
Hi PanzerMeister36!
Did you apply a varnish between the acrylics and the oil paints? Maybe I missed that. Do you have an idea of how to apply a varnish without an airbrush?
Mine always comes out streaky when I apply it with a brush...
I don't think I applied a varnish. I rarely will since it's a waste of time. Oils won't damage acrylics, unless you're using weak and poor quality paints like Vallejo.
And you can also get varnishes that come in spray cans for models. Testors, Mr. Hobby, Tamiya, all make good ones.
Bonjour
Superbe vidéo car même si on a du mal en anglais les images sont expressives merci
hi my friend !! 🙂
I have a question..
I really like your works and video, very inspiring!...and I'd like to ask you if you use pigment fixer... or not... and why? 😛
I usually use it , but the color of the pigment always go in a darker tone, once dry !! 😞
I have try not to use it, (only enamel thinner) but -once dry- pigments fly away at the minimum touch 😢
can you help me?
thanx a lot !!!
Hello! Yes I can help you.
I usually do not use a fixer for the reasons you mentioned. Instead, I apply a matter varnish beforehand. This add a texture to the model that the pigments hold on to quite well. It's not perfect but it works for me. Additionally, I usually apply my pigments on the model with enamel mud effects still slightly wet, so when the enamel mud wash dries it also holds onto the pigments a little bit. I believe I showed that in this video :)
I hope this helps you out!
@@Panzermeister36
Hi!
..first of all, thanks for your quick reply. you've been very kind.
yes , yes ..I saw the video and how you use the engine grime effect, as a fixer.
I immediately tried it too and I like it. 😅😅
Next time I want to try using pigments by mixing them with mig olibrush! 🤔
...otherwise, I Guess the only alternative would be to recolor and lighten the pigments after they have dried .. sigh 😓
in the meantime, thanks again. Hello from Italy....and Sorry for my english 😅😅😅🙈🙈
Ciao
Lovely video as always. But say it with me "boy-ta"
You know I'm bad with the German :)
The MG in the rear of the turret is anti
Infantry weapon.
I understand, but when the infantry are on your engine deck it's already too late.
@@Panzermeister36 well they have a slightly longer range than that. but not a Russian designer so i don't know why they stuck it on there probally some committee member wanted it. An even bigger flaw in the design of the KV-1, KV-2 and T-34 was the 2 man turret it meant that rate of fire was lowered and the commander was having to double duty.
Part way through, the top of the hull seemed to take on a more green colour like it hadnt been over painted with the grey. Is that just a trick of the light with the dust?
I think it's more that I adjusted (corrected) my lighting at one point since I was weathering this over a period of a few months. During my Tiger series I changed it, so that occurred part way through this build as well.
Hi mate, happy new year I have a question about this kit if you can shed alittle light!? I'm building it just now and just noticed the rear drive sprockets are in different places on each side the left further out than the right side? Was the kv like this or a flaw in the kit?
Hello. Happy new year :) the sprockets should be in the same place, but they might appear different since the road wheels are offset on one side. This is because the torsion arms have to be offset along the hull floor. If you look from the bottom that should be apparent.
@@Panzermeister36 yeah I see that my left one I'm sure is further out the rear than the other side I'm sure it is just by a mil or something but was noticable when looked at it from the bottom there, I'm just trying to find a level to make sure haha! Either that or the teeth are to long on one of my sprockets I cam notice it and need to sort it or will bug me haha
See i have my fenders cut at the rear and one bit off the front so the sprockets are right out there on show! See cutting out them rear grills for abit of PE mesh that was a job and a half lol I've got a barrel for this tank in the parts box actually forgot about that being metal barrel should look better than this one! I have the KV2 kit to do after it and a T26 for a diorama with a bail out crew so some thinking is needed it's nearly 3am now and still up modelling haha
hey so you don't have an issue with the base coat rubbing off after you use the enamel thinner for pin wash and clean up since you dont apply a varnish as you stated at the 5:50 time slot?
Never any issue with Tamiya acrylics. They are very durable.
@@Panzermeister36 how about the Tamiya TS spray cans, they're lacquer?
I've never tried those personally. But I expect they would be similar.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the reply. Theres a hobby store called wheelswingshobbies in toronto and they have a brand new used tamiya -156A tiger tank from 1975. any thoughts on those kits?
Great job. What size brush are you using for chipping?
I think a 10/0 or 5/0. Anything in the range of 20/0 to 3/0 is good in my experience.
Hi i build the same tank it's the Pz.KPfw.I like a KV1 Rusian capterd tank . and i used the RAL 7020 as recomanded ,but your is lighter then mine . Why ? I used as primer the Vallejo 70.605 like rust color. Is that the reason ? Yours is much more real
Sorry I am confused... do you mean RAL8020, 7008, 7027, or 7028? I'm not familiar with 7020.
Would the hair spray chipping work with rustoleum spray cans?
Probably not. One of the key steps for HS chipping is to not apply a very thick coating of paint over the hairspray, otherwise it's very hard to chip. Another key is to avoid using lacquer paints (instead I use alcohol-based ones) since they dry very hard and are difficult to chip.
Spray cans are usually lacquer-based paints and always apply in thick layers, so that's two strikes against it.
Okay excellent, thanks! I’m currently building my first tank kit, i’ll probably have to try and do some brush chipping. I’m building the monogram m48a2 patton because its all that was locally available. I think watching your videos has turned me from 1/24 muscle cars to armour for sure.
Why do you thin acrylic paint a with lacquer thinner?
Because it makes it spray more smoothly and it also makes the resulting paint very durable so I don't have to waste time with lots of varnishes.
@@Panzermeister36 Cheers mate
you should not be finished, it must get a modified german cupola, if not, it Isnt Completed
I've based this off references of an actual vehicle, a KV-1 cast turret of the same type numbered 216. A cupola would be cool and is often seen, but not on this one :)
@@Panzermeister36 ah ok, well ill give you a pass on this one lol, so you think next time maybe you can make some field mods?
good looking model bro, recently just got back in to the hobby after a long absences, like 20 years, life happens. i do have a question, working on a 1/48th fokker tri plane you know anywhere i can get paint schemes and or paint matching?
i want to do a really nice job on its paint! and have No examples or places for color matching to simulate IRL
Sorry, I'm not really an airplane guy so I'm not knowledgeable on references with that subject.
@@Panzermeister36 i appreciate you taking your time to comment back, really enjopy your work, again nice work buddy!
Thank you :)
Траки просто ваще не то. Вы хоть посмотрите у техники какие они в реале. Что зимой, что летом. Они всегда все блестят.