My take is you can always use a thin foam or slice a kitchen sponge to add a flexible distancer to keep the plated apart. Used this to build a pedal acting as a HID USB macro trigger.
I would have suggested two breakout adapters for the power. One plug, on receptacle with breakout terminals. Then you could have run the switch to one half of the connector and just install a jumper on the negative.
I can't imagine how much waste is likely produced by the prop industry. It's inventive but you'd think they'd have a kit of somewhat standard useful items on hand to do stuff like this. If time is money and you're often in crunch mode getting things done, I'd kind of assemble that kit in my off hours. Like already-provisioned and paired Picoclick devices...
The only thing I've seen so far is Spirit Halloween has pressure pads for sale but the ones I've seen are small. I imagine you can hook up a few to cover more area.
@@RachelDeBarrosLive I was thinking more of generic kit. A pressure pad is essentially just a switch, so anything with a switch on it can be fashioned into that role, especially if you're willing to accept 3 corrugated cardboard sheets worth of thickness. (think: old window/door sensor) My take on that is just to have "switch" parts ready to go. The magic is using off the shelf parts (like ESP boards) which can do all that stuff wirelessly and literally run off a coin cell if configured correctly.
I'd love to join you on Zoom but I'm in Australia, so the time difference is an issue. Will consider joining in the future though, you are solving many of my issues as i decorate for a plethora of events each year and run escape rooms in my garage/yard. Commercial premises locally are not cost effective. Loving your fintent, glad i stumbled across your channel.
For high current or motor application it’d probably be best run load through a relay at least and use aluminum plate to trigger the relay. Maybe less of a fire or health concern, even in the short term. Another bonus of relay is for instance your ashes to ashes. If you used a cheap timer relay a momentary press of the aluminum plate would still allow the prop it to run its full cycle and not cutoff.
Great idea! I'll have to include that in an upcoming relay tutorial. I was initially thinking of talking about using a 555 timer circuit but a timer relay would be much easier for beginners to incorporate. Great stuff! 👍
Always an enjoyment factor to watch! Takes me back way back the way you work a board! Pressure switches vary cool!
So nice to see you again Rachel.
Pressure switch = loud jack in the box or bat, rooster, turkey etc... :)
A Jack-in-the-Box would definitely get me to jump! 🤣
My take is you can always use a thin foam or slice a kitchen sponge to add a flexible distancer to keep the plated apart. Used this to build a pedal acting as a HID USB macro trigger.
Interesting! I like how you use common parts anyone has
The kids in Northern Utah will have you to thank for their Halloween fear this year.
I would have suggested two breakout adapters for the power. One plug, on receptacle with breakout terminals. Then you could have run the switch to one half of the connector and just install a jumper on the negative.
Oooo.... great idea! 👍
I can't imagine how much waste is likely produced by the prop industry. It's inventive but you'd think they'd have a kit of somewhat standard useful items on hand to do stuff like this.
If time is money and you're often in crunch mode getting things done, I'd kind of assemble that kit in my off hours. Like already-provisioned and paired Picoclick devices...
The only thing I've seen so far is Spirit Halloween has pressure pads for sale but the ones I've seen are small. I imagine you can hook up a few to cover more area.
@@RachelDeBarrosLive I was thinking more of generic kit.
A pressure pad is essentially just a switch, so anything with a switch on it can be fashioned into that role, especially if you're willing to accept 3 corrugated cardboard sheets worth of thickness. (think: old window/door sensor)
My take on that is just to have "switch" parts ready to go. The magic is using off the shelf parts (like ESP boards) which can do all that stuff wirelessly and literally run off a coin cell if configured correctly.
I'd love to join you on Zoom but I'm in Australia, so the time difference is an issue. Will consider joining in the future though, you are solving many of my issues as i decorate for a plethora of events each year and run escape rooms in my garage/yard. Commercial premises locally are not cost effective. Loving your fintent, glad i stumbled across your channel.
Aluminum tape should work right?
For high current or motor application it’d probably be best run load through a relay at least and use aluminum plate to trigger the relay. Maybe less of a fire or health concern, even in the short term.
Another bonus of relay is for instance your ashes to ashes. If you used a cheap timer relay a momentary press of the aluminum plate would still allow the prop it to run its full cycle and not cutoff.
Great idea! I'll have to include that in an upcoming relay tutorial. I was initially thinking of talking about using a 555 timer circuit but a timer relay would be much easier for beginners to incorporate. Great stuff! 👍
@@RachelDeBarrosLive I like the 555 idea. If you didn’t want to use relays triac’s and mosfet’s are pretty simple to use.
Oh yeah I have some ideas on how to scare some friends and family.
for motor i suggest using a relay.Weather stripping might be good separator.
1st Baby!!!!