When it comes to wiring I am not very good at figuring things out. I recently bought an 85 d150 that the people I bought it from butchered the wiring to the engine and sold it to me because they couldn't get it to start, there was other problems with it as well. I got everything else lined out and corrected, but now I think I can tackle the wiring thanks to your simple explanation. New subscriber, thanks for sharing.
wanted to thank you for teaching this subject. just bought an 84 dodge for my son and they have the coil wired to a switch instead of the ignition this video has helped tremendous in figuring out what they missed (more wiring fun i'm sure on this truck lol)
Don't forget to replace the vacuum advance even if your not going to use it. The correct one for big block ( Counter Clock wise) and as well small block.( Clock Wise). For old school distributors magnet trigger ignitions.
Thank you very much. Very kind words. I really appreciate it. I'm just trying to do my job of showing how to do these jobs and trying to inspire others like yourself to do them
@@slantfish65sd well I appreciate you. Most just say...ok...hook up your voltage regulator....you actually take the time to show what it looks like, and which wires to use. Some of us need it lol.
Hey first of all let me say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As for what's wrong with your Mopar most likely you've probably got yourself a bad ignition switch. What's happened? Most likely is that you have a contact in the ignition switch that has burned out or what's known as called commonly dropped a lag. This contact is no longer making contact and that contact is one of the circuits you've got basically two circuits in your Mopar there's an ignition one and an ignition 2. Ignition one allows the engine to run all the time while the ignition is turned on. Ignition two allows the ignition coil to have full 12 volt power when the engine is starting. That ignition one is probably messed up in the ignition switch. Try a different ignition switch or try jumping across your ignition relay. Switch under the hood and see if you can get it to start like that. Okay. Thank you very much. If you have any further questions feel free to ask
Your ballast resistor is bad. The ballast is bypassed when cranking in Start position allowing full voltage to coil. When engine starts and you release key the voltage to coil is switched to go through the ballast and then to coil.
Nice! Perfectly explained I wish this would have been up 6 months ago I had to learn all this myself. I actually switched after that no start situation to Electronic ignition purchased on Ebay with distributor and coil bypassing the ballast. I have it rigged up so I can pull that set up and swap in old points set up, or the spare same Electronic ignition i purchased. It turned out to be cheap ass wire CCA that i had purchased a while back because i was doing so much wiring. I ended up buying and finding way better old school copper only wire. I have a question un related to EI. On my 71 W200 318/NP435 clutch went out i got it home pulled inspection plate noticed the T/O was off clutch fork got her back on drove 3 miles and out it went again. After really inspecting I noticed a crack in the pilot bushing or bearing. Im dealing with a bum hip right now. Do I have to pull tranny or engine? to get the pilot bushing or bearing back on (im not sure if its just a bushing which I ordered or a bearing). Thanks always enjoy your videos...
Thank you for the opportunity and thank you for your time the ignition Sounds great however I would very closely inspect clutch fork ,the pivot ball ,and the entire clutch linkage the z bar has bushings un the ends of it that can wear out and compare your clutch fork to pictures of a new one (internet) as far as your pilot bushing is concerned when they are usually very trouble free I have seen clutch forks bend break and wear out
I would be very open to doing a FaceTime session with you to help you sort out your wiring issues on your vehicle. I'm not sure if I have a book or a manual covering your particular vehicle but I will definitely give it a try you can reach me on my gmail account. That account name is slantfish65SD @gmail.com. then I will give you my phone number. I can also be reached on Facebook. My facebook handle is Samuel Daugerty
First, I want to say thank you so much for watching the video and your comments. As far as condensing this video down to 5 minute video. I don't do that sort of thing because I leave out information if I were too condense it down into a 5 minute video. The reality is there's a lot of things going on here to get a electronic ignition to work and to function correctly. So while there may be some folks out there that will condense this down to a 5 minute video, okay, you know they can go make their own video and do that that's fine. I don't mind that but the reality is when you're trying to teach somebody all of the little details that make this work and they're learning it for the first time. They don't need it in a 5 minute video they needed in a you know 15 or 20 minute video or maybe longer for multi-part video. Even so you know if you want a 5 minute video I'm afraid you going to have to look somewhere else. I don't like turning people away but I don't really do those five minute videos explaining stuff because there's a lot of stuff that can get left out and I want to explain things thoroughly and completely so that viewers like you have a complete and thorough understanding of all the details. Thank you again
No you're wrong because even if a Mopar isn't running I still don't replace it with a Ford or Chevrolet and the joke here is on you because even when you are giving me negative comments it doesn't really matter because RUclips promotes my channel and pushes it to two other people to watch. So my channel continues to gain viewers and subscribers which grows on the channel even further. So thank you for your comment
First of all, I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. I really appreciate it. So Mr. Todd smart if you're smart like your name says it is then why haven't you already made a video about this? Seems like to me that if you're so smart and you know everything about everything, then why are you even watching the video to begin with? You know, here's the real funny part about all of this. The jokes on you it truly is because when you comment when you watch one of my videos or you comment on one of my videos, it just helps out the algorithm that much more. So my challenge is continues to grow bigger and bigger and I actually make money off that. So thank you I appreciate that. But if you think you can do a better job than by all means, I welcome you to go ahead and make your own video about it. Step right in there. Get right in it
When it comes to wiring I am not very good at figuring things out. I recently bought an 85 d150 that the people I bought it from butchered the wiring to the engine and sold it to me because they couldn't get it to start, there was other problems with it as well. I got everything else lined out and corrected, but now I think I can tackle the wiring thanks to your simple explanation. New subscriber, thanks for sharing.
wanted to thank you for teaching this subject. just bought an 84 dodge for my son and they have the coil wired to a switch instead of the ignition this video has helped tremendous in figuring out what they missed (more wiring fun i'm sure on this truck lol)
Don't forget to replace the vacuum advance even if your not going to use it. The correct one for big block ( Counter Clock wise) and as well small block.( Clock Wise).
For old school distributors magnet trigger ignitions.
Best explanation on youtube...period!
Thank you very much. Very kind words. I really appreciate it. I'm just trying to do my job of showing how to do these jobs and trying to inspire others like yourself to do them
@@slantfish65sd well I appreciate you. Most just say...ok...hook up your voltage regulator....you actually take the time to show what it looks like, and which wires to use. Some of us need it lol.
The best explanetion I got. Thank you so much!!!
I have this hooked up on my dodge but the motor only runs while key is cranking… any suggestions?
Hey first of all let me say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As for what's wrong with your Mopar most likely you've probably got yourself a bad ignition switch. What's happened? Most likely is that you have a contact in the ignition switch that has burned out or what's known as called commonly dropped a lag. This contact is no longer making contact and that contact is one of the circuits you've got basically two circuits in your Mopar there's an ignition one and an ignition 2. Ignition one allows the engine to run all the time while the ignition is turned on. Ignition two allows the ignition coil to have full 12 volt power when the engine is starting. That ignition one is probably messed up in the ignition switch. Try a different ignition switch or try jumping across your ignition relay. Switch under the hood and see if you can get it to start like that. Okay. Thank you very much. If you have any further questions feel free to ask
Your ballast resistor is bad. The ballast is bypassed when cranking in Start position allowing full voltage to coil. When engine starts and you release key the voltage to coil is switched to go through the ballast and then to coil.
sell it cherapp o
Nice! Perfectly explained I wish this would have been up 6 months ago I had to learn all this myself. I actually switched after that no start situation to Electronic ignition purchased on Ebay with distributor and coil bypassing the ballast. I have it rigged up so I can pull that set up and swap in old points set up, or the spare same Electronic ignition i purchased. It turned out to be cheap ass wire CCA that i had purchased a while back because i was doing so much wiring. I ended up buying and finding way better old school copper only wire.
I have a question un related to EI. On my 71 W200 318/NP435 clutch went out i got it home pulled inspection plate noticed the T/O was off clutch fork got her back on drove 3 miles and out it went again. After really inspecting I noticed a crack in the pilot bushing or bearing. Im dealing with a bum hip right now. Do I have to pull tranny or engine? to get the pilot bushing or bearing back on (im not sure if its just a bushing which I ordered or a bearing). Thanks always enjoy your videos...
Thank you for the opportunity and thank you for your time the ignition Sounds great however I would very closely inspect clutch fork ,the pivot ball ,and the entire clutch linkage the z bar has bushings un the ends of it that can wear out and compare your clutch fork to pictures of a new one (internet) as far as your pilot bushing is concerned when they are usually very trouble free I have seen clutch forks bend break and wear out
I wish i could facetime you so you could help me figure out my rats nest! 🤣😂
I would be very open to doing a FaceTime session with you to help you sort out your wiring issues on your vehicle. I'm not sure if I have a book or a manual covering your particular vehicle but I will definitely give it a try you can reach me on my gmail account. That account name is slantfish65SD @gmail.com. then I will give you my phone number. I can also be reached on Facebook. My facebook handle is Samuel Daugerty
@@slantfish65sd you...are AWESOME! Check your email...im gonna write you!
Thank you for the information 😎 very helpful
Condense this to a 5 minute video
First, I want to say thank you so much for watching the video and your comments. As far as condensing this video down to 5 minute video. I don't do that sort of thing because I leave out information if I were too condense it down into a 5 minute video. The reality is there's a lot of things going on here to get a electronic ignition to work and to function correctly. So while there may be some folks out there that will condense this down to a 5 minute video, okay, you know they can go make their own video and do that that's fine. I don't mind that but the reality is when you're trying to teach somebody all of the little details that make this work and they're learning it for the first time. They don't need it in a 5 minute video they needed in a you know 15 or 20 minute video or maybe longer for multi-part video. Even so you know if you want a 5 minute video I'm afraid you going to have to look somewhere else. I don't like turning people away but I don't really do those five minute videos explaining stuff because there's a lot of stuff that can get left out and I want to explain things thoroughly and completely so that viewers like you have a complete and thorough understanding of all the details. Thank you again
Wrong what u do is replace mopar with chevy/ford. Cheers
No you're wrong because even if a Mopar isn't running I still don't replace it with a Ford or Chevrolet and the joke here is on you because even when you are giving me negative comments it doesn't really matter because RUclips promotes my channel and pushes it to two other people to watch. So my channel continues to gain viewers and subscribers which grows on the channel even further. So thank you for your comment
You made it ten times worse than I started
First of all, I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. I really appreciate it. So Mr. Todd smart if you're smart like your name says it is then why haven't you already made a video about this? Seems like to me that if you're so smart and you know everything about everything, then why are you even watching the video to begin with? You know, here's the real funny part about all of this. The jokes on you it truly is because when you comment when you watch one of my videos or you comment on one of my videos, it just helps out the algorithm that much more. So my challenge is continues to grow bigger and bigger and I actually make money off that. So thank you I appreciate that. But if you think you can do a better job than by all means, I welcome you to go ahead and make your own video about it. Step right in there. Get right in it