How to Use Quick Splice Connectors & When to Avoid Them
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- Опубликовано: 15 апр 2022
- Here's how to use quick splice connectors to add a wire connection quickly and easily! Also, they may not always be the best option for joining wires together! This connector is sometimes called a vampire connector since they "bite" into the wire and draw power from a power source. These solderless wire connectors may provide a quick connection, but are sometimes more trouble than they are worth. A soldered connection typically provides a better connection and longer service life than a wire tap, splicer, or runtap.
Here's where to get some if you aren't convinced not to get them:
Red (18-22 AWG) Scotchlok connectors: amzn.to/3hm6EP9 *
Blue (14-16 AWG) Scotchlock connectors: amzn.to/3sqpBXr *
Yellow (10-12 AWG) Scotchlok connectors: amzn.to/3K6g4ed *
(With all of these, read the description for more details. There are a ton of options out there for different features, sizes, etc.)
Some pliers: amzn.to/3pn3r6u *
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I use em in my pick up for headlight and aux lighting… 2 years of off-roading and daily driving? Still running like a champ.
Finally, a video demonstration that was actually helpful! Ive watched several videos where the person demonstrating just explains in words how he did it, and not actually showing the process visually Lol
Problem with these is mostly user error, not crimping down hard enough, using wrong size wire, and not water/weather proofing with tape for outside applications. When done right they work great and last a long time.
Exactly what I was thinking
Even the cheaper ones like from harbor freight?
@@vertihvost7675 Yes, they're more than likely made from the same factory in China lol
Yeah I’m planning on using this to wire together upfitter switches and box lights in my raptor, hopefully it’ll work well
I used these to fix the wires on my lawn mower. They worked great. I wouldn't have had enough room to solder and heat shrink without taking the top of the engine apart.
Thanks You made my decision for me I was going to use these in a kayak but the wires will move around and will be exposed to moisture so its off the table back to solder and shrink tubing.
Thank you for this video!
Automotive wiring in the passenger compartment is the only place I would use these and only for low current or signal type applications.
They are PERFECT for automotive wiring. I dont know what went wrong with this guys build but my LED bumper lights are spliced to my tail lights when in reverse and Ive had ZERO issues. If you use the correct size, I dont see the issue. Also, use SOLID core wiring with these. Not braided or twisted core.
Splice connectors have a tendency to corrode and start melting things after a while, maybe you might not have issues with it but down the road its going to happen. I've had to redo so many "custom" trailer wiring jobs from people being lazy and using splice connectors which worked for for maybe a year or so and then stopped working.
Best stuff to use for automotive is crimp connectors and shrink tube.
The only time you will have a problem is with improper use. People don’t understand how to use them and then say they are garbage when they fail. Tons of engineering goes into a product like this and there are very specific instructions on proper installation
does this video cover all the specific intructions@@techmetal2292
Thanks for the info
Good day bro! I’m upgrading the horn of my car to a Bosch Europa using a horn harness with relay. Mind me asking which of the wires from the horn connection will I splice into to make it as a trigger for a horn harness. Car model is a Ford Ecosport. Thanks! 😉
Hi am not sure what size to buy if it's 18/14, 11/18 am going to splice my rear brake lights? Thanks
If I used the quick connectors for my taillight ground and power wire, and I’d like to remove them, how would I go about safely removing them and what could I expect with the wire? Will the factory wire still be intact, meaning is the wire still whole to where I can electrical tape it or does it split the wire in half?
How these be Good if i use them for the Head light Led i bought for my truck ?
Wow, thank you for your honesty! How to best remove these crummy, cheap quick splice connectors after they FAIL!? Like you, I too was installing Resistors to stop 4-way Flashing on my motorcycle. Blue quick splice connectors incl. in the Kit FAILED on installation. What's best way to remove them while wasting the least amount of wire? Good job.
Sounds good.
Este conector é ótimo usamos muito dele aqui no Brasil
Thanks.
how do I wire a 24 gauge to a 22 gauge it's been year since I've installed my stereos
thanks just installed a rear camera and it wasnt working, i didnt push down on the metal all the way
Thousands of these installed on add on accessories from Toyota, never an issue. Like with most things it’s not the product it’s user error. This is what Toyota supplies and specifically instructs you to use on those products.
I'm planning to use this on my motorcycle and I've been thinking to apply a dielectric grease for protection from moist or water, will this be a good idea?
Yes it will be
Mr cars simplified I got these connectors for my spec d tuning headlights not sure how to connect them 😭and the tutorials are confusing for a wrx 2004
Is that type of quick splice connectors limited to 12 v ? I am not sure if it is safe for 120 v household current , am I correct? If so, is there similar quick splice for 120 V?
Definitely don't use these for anything with solid wire, and I don't believe they can handle 120V, either. I like Wago style connectors for solid wire and they are about as close as I've seen to this for 120V solid wire, but they will require cutting the wire. I don't have any training in working with 120V wiring, though, so there will be more knowledge folks than me on RUclips to ask.
i recommend hot glue to hold them in place. i used electrical tape before and heat and vibrations made the tape unravel and the connection with it.
*i use them in my vehicle, interior only, haven’t had a problem*
Thought about using them to tap into my stock stereo speaker wires to add a sub and amp. U think these would work well for that versus a posi-tap or t-tap connector.
@@kylealexander6258 *i don’t see it being a issue especially for just speaker wires, just be sure you are using the correct size that you are tapping into*
Hi am not sure what size to buy if it's 18/14, 11/18 am going to splice my rear brake lights? Thanks
So what type quick connector SHOULD I use??
I would love an answer to this question as well!
Sorry, Im a Flux, Tin and solder and adhesive lined shrink wrap man. especially when the connection can get wet.
Would you recommend using these for installing a line output converter onto a factory radio?
I'm here for this exact reason! Did you do it yet? If you did, is the audio quality okay with these connectors?
Wondering the same! Did you end up going with it?
Are these connectors only to run a single wire to connect to another single wire? Or would I be able to run an LED light to my headlights with this? So they could turn on and off with my headlights
Did you ever find out?
Isn’t working for me, its the correct guage, but when it cuts down on one of the wires, it doesnt go all the way through the insulation, only a small piece shows and my backup camera isn’t powered. Should I use a smaller one?
What gauge t tap are you using. The scenario you described tells me that your t tap is rated for a larger wire. Go down a size in t tap and it should properly pierce the insulation.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 I went down a size and the t-tap couldn’t get through the actual wire part, in the end I just crimpes the wires and used one of the shrink tubes
What if you wanna take these off? Does anything happen to the main wire?
There will be cuts in the insulation that can let corrosion happen if not resealed. There could be damage to conductor strands, too, which can cause hot spots if what's left can't handle the amperage.
would these work for say automotive audio wiring ?
They will, but for how long is the question. I would definitely avoid using these around speakers, especially with subwoofers, as the vibration can cause the metal part that cuts into the wire to potentially cut more wire strands (which will reduce audio quality in the sort term, and weaken the wire for more damage in the medium term). Soldering won't be the perfect solution in every scenario, but it generally creates a better audio wiring connection across the board.
I've never understood why people use resistors to fix fast flash. Doesn't this increase current draw, which is one of the reasons to use LED lights, to reduce power requirements? The proper flasher relay is the method I use. I am wondering if what I think I know is wrong.
Whenever a replaceable flasher is available, that is indeed the ideal way to go about it. However, on newer vehicles it's becoming increasingly popular to not have a traditional flasher unit and instead, the flash rate is controlled by a computer. The computer expects a certain current draw, and when it's not correct, it will change the flash rate to warn the driver of an issue.
@@CarsSimplified holy crap! I have a 2021 Jeep Gladiator, and I was able to tell the computer I have LED lights, I guess I'm lucky. Thanks for the detailed answer, it makes sense even if I think it's a dumb way to design a vehicle.
Ooh, nice! I'm glad they have that option! Funny enough my latest video is a key fob battery replacement for a Jeep Gladiator!
I imagine technically any car with the computer-controlled flash rate can be made to accept LEDs, but it would take varying levels of programming ability.
I actually have a car that I was able to install an LED flasher on, but had to install one of those resistors parallel to the taillights because the BCM "warns" the driver of full taillight failure (which it thought it was seeing with the LEDs) by locking the traction control system to off.
@@CarsSimplified In case you don't already know about it Taser Mini allows you to set the lights to LED. I suspect there are other aftermarket programmers that will do this as well, but I got the Tazer Mini primarily to change tire size in the computer.
What happened to your subaru XV? 😯
In the video? I was just upgrading to LEDs and had to add resistors to make the turn signals blink at a normal rate. I've driven it across the United States since this video was recorded (and that trip was right after this video, which was why I tried this potentially quicker wiring method).
they work fine in auto wiring lol!
Just wrap it in tesla tape when done, you'll be perfectly fine.
Best place for these is honestly prototyping, working with stationary electronics, and for truly temporary fixes. Nothing exposed to the environment or vibration!
Indeed! I agree on all counts.
Would you recommend using these for installing a line output converter?
These are designed to withstand vibration. Solder fails under vibration testing
@@techmetal2292 These honestly aren't good for anything except temporary wiring. They are a small contact area, low reliability, unsealed connection. Crimping with proper sealing is preferred for a high vibration situation. I also prefer not to solder in automotive work.
This may sound stupid but is there any way to remove it ?
I just had to remove two a few days ago! I don't know if there's an official way to do it, but I just unclipped the cover and pried it apart with a flat head screwdriver. Damage is already done when installing them, so there's no avoiding needing to do something else with the wires afterwards.
@@CarsSimplified yea I knew the wire damage would be the problem, cause I had to use those my my new side marker and connect it to the turn signal and it was pointless cause it didn’t even work so I’m now scared to take it off cause it might mess up my lights
Main thing is to make sure that the wire your taking into has the same voltage as the as power source that your trying to add on
How do i remove them
Because they slice through the wire insulation, they just get cut off at the wire. The wire then needs to be repaired with a connector and/or solder.
If you need high beam signal for your LED bar you just put on your winter car that goes to the last highway in spring anyways? Yes.
In every other case? Hell no.
After connecting, why not just use some electrical tape to secure them?!
Okay, isn’t this the main use? In automobiles?
Yes. If they are coming loose then it means you aren’t doing it properly. After clamping these on use a couple wraps of electrical tape for added security. Some people think that because they did something wrong that it’s the fault of the tool or item being used. When I’m all reality it’s the person who needs to educate themselves a bit more
So you’re saying not to use them, but you didn’t tell us what to use instead.
He said soldering??
THey work fine people on youtube just like to be extra af
I just mute the commercials. They wont win with me!!
Good video, thanks.
But super shitty connectors, avoid.
You take these out of the bag and then throw them in the trash.
😂
Well 💩 or as spalding would say “double 💩s”….
Just an opinion but you should mention what you would recommend doing for automotive applications instead of just saying don't do it multiple times.
He did. He splices and solders. He says he only used em cause it was freezing winter. You can also use the butt style connectors with three wires
They crap
Those connectors are garbage use solder or loop and heat shrink those connectors corrode fall off and are horrible You're asking for trouble. Learn how to solder it's the best connection you can make when it's done right
That is what they were created for cars.😂😂😂
Solder shouldn’t be used for automotive wiring. The absolute worst for that environment