The green compound is chrome oxide, one of the best ones as it has a good bite and a good finish. One thing to be aware of if you're looking for perfect mirror finish is that the green compound can start to dig in and make pits. If there's a too deep scratch or if the compound dries and burn to the metal and you get a lump, the cloth with jump over it and dig down behind and create a pit in the metal. If that happens you may need to have a finer sanded finish before polishing or a different first stage polishing compound which leaves a more dull finish but less prone to dig into scratches like the green one. And then just give it a light polish with the green compound to finish it. If it starts to dig those pits you can't polish them away, only option is to go back and sand them down and polish again.
Got to be careful with gloves. They can caught on the shaft, which is very no bueno. If you do wear gloves, they need to be loose enough that they’ll get whisked off wth minimal friction. And *NO* rings or bracelets… unless you like getting skinned.
No insult. This is a great video about buffing armor. Spot on simple video about easy maintenance for your cool things! Just imagine doing this without a buffing wheel! Tks, Matt
Hey Matt, watches, rings, gloves, sleeves, etc can cause some horrific injuries with spinning power tools. If you got a strong stomach you can look up the pictures. Not gonna be a nanny about just want to spread the awareness to have caution with it. Enjoy your videos.
@@henninghesse9910why no gloves? Do they catch? I do wear gloves and I don’t find they catch. Rather a brush against the wheel and my hands are not injured. Maybe I’m lucky and I should stop.
@@alowry2002 You should stop, at least with any remotely durable gloves. You can use nitrile gloves as those will just tear instead of pulling you in, but still are convenient for keeping your hands clean. Any kind of leather/nylon/rubber work glove can and has gotten people sucked into machines resulting in terrible injury or death. Rings, watches, bracelets as well, stuff em in your pocket before you put your hands anywhere near spinning machinery. @peterleblanc661 is right, you need a strong stomach to look at pictures of the injuries that happen from people wearing gloves.
I saw two men lose their ring finger due to their wedding band getting caught on equipment on construction sites before I turned 18 (started working on them when I was 12 during summer vacation), which is why I have never worn a wedding band. Neither were spinning tools but both got caught on steel burs on the equipment. Never wear any jewelry while working with power tools or heavier equipment.
Hey Matt! So perfect that this video was made because I have my own harness being made right now and I was always worried about how the removal of flash rust and keeping a nice and shiny polish!!! Great video!
I believe that armour used to be polished bob putting the pieces (one at a time) into a bag with some chaff and swinging the ba around so that the chaff polished the armour. Thank heaven for buffing wheels.
@scholagladiatoria sweet Jesus man, eye and ear protection! You’re grinding metal, not putting on a coat of wax, though the paste probably helps cut back on the dust. And while that surgical mask is better than nothing, the seal/filtration on those is trash. That’s a bug and spit catcher, not a fine particulate barrier. What you’re wearing is like going to the Tewksbury events in a leather jacket and thinking you’ll be fine in the scrum. The basic setup is excellent, I will say that.
When you apply the compound to the wheel it's better to tap it than to hold it as all you want to do is load up the wheel and holding just ends up throwing a bunch of it into the air. Since you want the compound to do the work try to apply it way more often. Like at 3:36 when you see that great big black band on the wheel. Personally I would never use gloves with a buffing wheel or any spinning machine because it can get grabbed and pull your hand in, but thankfully with this motor its more likely to just stop before too much bad things happen. That said your safety is your choice and the metal definitely can get hot (I'd recommend working on a few pieces at once because of this if it is an option).
I use a Baldor buffer with felt wheels so you don’t get polishing marks. I believe it is 1800 rpm. The longer shafts are great to access what’s being polished.
I don't have the workshop space at my apartment, but I've made the habit of, right after I'm back home, clean it all with paper napkins and rubbing alcohol and then oil them. Then, probably the night before an event (or the night before that) I'll do the buffing manually with rags and auto polish while I watch videos or listen to music. I would love to have a "workshop" to have such setups, though
Depending on the type of polishing compound you are using be careful. Some compounds cut rather quickly and remove material .For a high polish I use red jewellers rouge. It burnishes instead of cutting. Of course it doesn't remove scratches as well as the green or the white compound but it does increase shine while not damaging designs or markings on the metal. Over forty years as a jeweler has allowed me to see how damaging over enthusiastic polishing can be.
Technically speaking matt you planished the ready formed sheet/gauntlet & then polished at the end. planish is to make flat which you did through an abrasive wheel then used buffing or polishing wheel. The hammering & or rolling portion of the planish was done by the blacksmith/fabricator. Are the wheels felt, cotton etcetera as I can't tell from the video as it alter results with what ever coating medium you use? Polishing makes a Parallel lined finish while buffing has a clear finish with no lines if done correctly. can't see the finish in the camera recording. I do recommend you so that outside for your own chests good! put a sheet down as makes clean up from dust easier.
Even if you open that wood shed door some as it will do you good in the long run & try not to sweep it up. Use a gourd sheet to pour in a bin or use a wet hoover.
Screw a two by four to the bottom of the polisher and hold it in the vise, prevent it from moving around. Do be careful at the edges, sometimes the wheel will catch it and wrench the item out of your hand.
I got a question. A modern soldier’s worst nightmare is clearing houses and CQB. How did medieval soldiers clear houses? (weapon manipulation, tactics of it) I saw Daemon try to clear Harrnehal in HoD. He was manipulating his sword similar a rifle when clearing the hallway which seemed silly. I’m a marine myself and like to study how room clearing has evolved over time
@@TheMikrobeaccording to saga you do that when you realize that stealing isn't honorable. But you leave one door open so you can stand everyone coming out yourself.😂
i like your method, but with buffing wheels you can get a bit of a buffing pattern to show on the item. i would recommend finishing by hand with a 1500-2000 grit wet/ dry sandpaper. they sell it at automotive stores. you can use it with oil or water. it will create a beautiful finish. just go with the grain of steel. its very quick to remove the wheel pattern.
planished then polished or buffed steel is more conformed as it is flatter thus harder in practice. Russian tank armour in ww2 was 600-700 Brinell which is brittle which is inferior to western & German tank armour from 200 to 400 Brinell depending on the portion. Harder does not equate stronger as the manner of fracture does matter for the occupants of the armour. Mind the USSR did not overly concern themselves with tank crew safety as they did not overly train tank crews to begin with. Later German armour on tank by 1944 was vastly varying hardness & quality as allied bombing did a number on quality control! harness wise middle ages armour was generally of more optimal hardness around 300 to 450 Brinell. It is much more difficult to get consistent harness on large plate of armour like found on tanks. Even the welding of plates together or the drilling for hole to rivet or mount fasteners can mess up hardness on potions. The middles ages made holes with punch before tempering & so hardness was funnily more conform! polish, Italian, HRE, French & English armour were of similar quality as blacksmiths often travelled to were war was expected or present unless a royal armour. They went were the work was in short. This is why large production of arms & armour was rarely far from navigable rivers & sea as the black smith in multiple trips would transport their workshops-livelihood. Mind a young smith often had few tools he made he carried n his person or a pack animal. Only in age did a black smith settle down as after his apprenticeship they would travel & work abroad to were work was to gain experience in their trade! My Grand father & great grand father were Farriers, cartwrights, ship wrights & armourers for the royal armouries when they weren't soldiering though my grand dad did trades in his spare time as he ran a lorry yard being former logistics in the Korea war etcetera. I learned all this stuff but such skills are not valued anymore!
Title: 'How to Polish Armour!' Me: 'Pour Ballistol over it and scrub it with a sturdy cloth!' Also me: * plays the video after making a first commend *
with you doing this made me think about a planned project I would like to start? BUT I NEEN A TIG WELDING SET???????? I have made chainmail for myself and few little piece for my friends (only decorative) I used 1.2mm welding wire (because I am a welder) I have also use same size wire but using stainless steel. my plan IF? I ever get a welder? is to buy 1 km of stainless steel spring wire and make a full shirt. BUT by using stainless if you have a big enough washing machine (I have only made small chainmail pieces and I used a big rock polisher with just water and on dishwasher tab) you can throw it in and they will polish themselves against each other. shinny chainmail
Hint from an old knifemaker- spray the surface you're buffing every now and then with something like WD-40. Makes a difference, I find. Of course your fingers will get grubby but if you want clean fingers stay away from workshops!
You NEVER wear gloves when working with that type of machinery. At most wear fine disposable gloves which will tear off, and not drag your hand in, when they catch...and it will happen!
What? No squire labouring away with pumice, sand & various grades of cloth, down to a fine kid skin or chamois to buff your armour, Sir Matt of Easton?😉
Wystarczy nalepić biały i czerwony pasek koło siebie żeby biały był nad czerwonym albo cztery kwadraty, 2 białe i 2 czerwone jak na szachownicy! I just couldn't resist the joke
Which do you think is the most advanced one-handed battle ax? Or if you were a Viking and could have an ax from any time or place, what would it be? :) I like the francisca.
If you're worried about inhaling dust particles in the air, you should get a proper builders mask from a hardware store. The type of mask you're wearing doesn't filter out anything suspended in the air and is useless for that purpose.
Wait a tick now... when would a knights squire be using an electric buffing wheel?? a few rags, a bit of polish and equal parts elbow grease and bobs your uncle.
I can spend hours sharpening and polishing my kitchen knives and swords. All sorts of finishes. Satin, mirror, kasumi, sashikomi, migaki… Hours are needed as I do all my finishes completely by hand (I don’t have access to power tools and I don’t think it would be as fun anyway). It’s an extremely relaxing activity. Perfect for listening to your videos to!
Always said you are a great helmet polisher.
Bastard, you made me laugh out loud!
😂😂😂
Hey honey, I'm off to the shed to polish my helmet!
Not only that he's a great great helm polisher
@@TheGoodCrusader.....
The green compound is chrome oxide, one of the best ones as it has a good bite and a good finish. One thing to be aware of if you're looking for perfect mirror finish is that the green compound can start to dig in and make pits. If there's a too deep scratch or if the compound dries and burn to the metal and you get a lump, the cloth with jump over it and dig down behind and create a pit in the metal. If that happens you may need to have a finer sanded finish before polishing or a different first stage polishing compound which leaves a more dull finish but less prone to dig into scratches like the green one. And then just give it a light polish with the green compound to finish it. If it starts to dig those pits you can't polish them away, only option is to go back and sand them down and polish again.
Holy shit, Polish Armor
Thanks! Not that I haven't done this before, but yeah, the mask *and* goggles should be *mandatory*, from the get-go.
And hearing protection. I also wear gloves so any accidental hand contact won’t hurt.
Got to be careful with gloves. They can caught on the shaft, which is very no bueno. If you do wear gloves, they need to be loose enough that they’ll get whisked off wth minimal friction.
And *NO* rings or bracelets… unless you like getting skinned.
Not pictured: any Polish armor
exactly how I read the title
knew someone would say it lmao
That's the problem of English speakers capitalising every word in a title for no reason.
I'm not saying it's their fault. It's their language's fault.
Perfect comment 😅
No insult.
This is a great video about buffing armor. Spot on simple video about easy maintenance for your cool things!
Just imagine doing this without a buffing wheel!
Tks, Matt
Hey Matt, watches, rings, gloves, sleeves, etc can cause some horrific injuries with spinning power tools. If you got a strong stomach you can look up the pictures. Not gonna be a nanny about just want to spread the awareness to have caution with it. Enjoy your videos.
Yep, never wear gloves on any electric turning machine!!
@@henninghesse9910why no gloves? Do they catch? I do wear gloves and I don’t find they catch. Rather a brush against the wheel and my hands are not injured. Maybe I’m lucky and I should stop.
@@alowry2002 You should stop, at least with any remotely durable gloves. You can use nitrile gloves as those will just tear instead of pulling you in, but still are convenient for keeping your hands clean. Any kind of leather/nylon/rubber work glove can and has gotten people sucked into machines resulting in terrible injury or death. Rings, watches, bracelets as well, stuff em in your pocket before you put your hands anywhere near spinning machinery. @peterleblanc661 is right, you need a strong stomach to look at pictures of the injuries that happen from people wearing gloves.
I saw two men lose their ring finger due to their wedding band getting caught on equipment on construction sites before I turned 18 (started working on them when I was 12 during summer vacation), which is why I have never worn a wedding band. Neither were spinning tools but both got caught on steel burs on the equipment. Never wear any jewelry while working with power tools or heavier equipment.
@@alowry2002 They don't catch until they do and then you'll rather wish they hadn't. Even if nothing happens it can scare the s out of you.
Here I thought we were going to see some Polish armour but we actually saw armour polish.
Will you continue to be Matt Easton
Hey Matt! So perfect that this video was made because I have my own harness being made right now and I was always worried about how the removal of flash rust and keeping a nice and shiny polish!!! Great video!
I believe that armour used to be polished bob putting the pieces (one at a time) into a bag with some chaff and swinging the ba around so that the chaff polished the armour. Thank heaven for buffing wheels.
@scholagladiatoria sweet Jesus man, eye and ear protection! You’re grinding metal, not putting on a coat of wax, though the paste probably helps cut back on the dust.
And while that surgical mask is better than nothing, the seal/filtration on those is trash. That’s a bug and spit catcher, not a fine particulate barrier. What you’re wearing is like going to the Tewksbury events in a leather jacket and thinking you’ll be fine in the scrum.
The basic setup is excellent, I will say that.
Oh another tip. When you see compound being deposited on the workpeice (like at 3:48) it means you should load up the wheel again.
When you apply the compound to the wheel it's better to tap it than to hold it as all you want to do is load up the wheel and holding just ends up throwing a bunch of it into the air. Since you want the compound to do the work try to apply it way more often. Like at 3:36 when you see that great big black band on the wheel.
Personally I would never use gloves with a buffing wheel or any spinning machine because it can get grabbed and pull your hand in, but thankfully with this motor its more likely to just stop before too much bad things happen. That said your safety is your choice and the metal definitely can get hot (I'd recommend working on a few pieces at once because of this if it is an option).
Oooh, excited to see some other parts of the garage!
I use a Baldor buffer with felt wheels so you don’t get polishing marks. I believe it is 1800 rpm. The longer shafts are great to access what’s being polished.
"That'll buff right out."
I don't have the workshop space at my apartment, but I've made the habit of, right after I'm back home, clean it all with paper napkins and rubbing alcohol and then oil them.
Then, probably the night before an event (or the night before that) I'll do the buffing manually with rags and auto polish while I watch videos or listen to music.
I would love to have a "workshop" to have such setups, though
For a second there, I thought you meant every time you come home, every day, you give your armour a bit of polish. 😆
Depending on the type of polishing compound you are using be careful. Some compounds cut rather quickly and remove material .For a high polish I use red jewellers rouge. It burnishes instead of cutting. Of course it doesn't remove scratches as well as the green or the white compound but it does increase shine while not damaging designs or markings on the metal. Over forty years as a jeweler has allowed me to see how damaging over enthusiastic polishing can be.
(Also remind them to wash the piece thoroughly before moving to rouge)
Personally, I prefer to Lithuanian my own armour.
there's a common wealth of techniques that cross over
You should be doing this to Unchained Melody by the Righteous Brothers.
Great timing on this video. I have a used helmet I just got recently that I need to polish up.
Brillant work !
Thanks for sharing 👍 I find the red or jewelry rouge is best for finishing buffing.
Technically speaking matt you planished the ready formed sheet/gauntlet & then polished at the end.
planish is to make flat which you did through an abrasive wheel then used buffing or polishing wheel.
The hammering & or rolling portion of the planish was done by the blacksmith/fabricator.
Are the wheels felt, cotton etcetera as I can't tell from the video as it alter results with what ever coating medium you use?
Polishing makes a Parallel lined finish while buffing has a clear finish with no lines if done correctly.
can't see the finish in the camera recording.
I do recommend you so that outside for your own chests good!
put a sheet down as makes clean up from dust easier.
Even if you open that wood shed door some as it will do you good in the long run & try not to sweep it up.
Use a gourd sheet to pour in a bin or use a wet hoover.
Screw a two by four to the bottom of the polisher and hold it in the vise, prevent it from moving around. Do be careful at the edges, sometimes the wheel will catch it and wrench the item out of your hand.
Get it nice and shiny 👍🏻 thanks for the video
But how do you polish Polish armour?
It's a good job there's not a special technique from Poland, as then it would be the Polish polish of Polish armour....
I got a question. A modern soldier’s worst nightmare is clearing houses and CQB. How did medieval soldiers clear houses? (weapon manipulation, tactics of it)
I saw Daemon try to clear Harrnehal in HoD. He was manipulating his sword similar a rifle when clearing the hallway which seemed silly. I’m a marine myself and like to study how room clearing has evolved over time
According to some movies you throw a burning torch into the thatched roof and the rooms clear themselves. (No claims made to historic accuracy)
@@roberth721 sounds like medieval equivalent of throwing a grenade in the room or just calling in arty on the building
@@roberth721 I think that's historically accurate, except that you also nail the doors shut first. Source: sagas and chronicles.
You just call in a battle maid, she does ALL the house cleaning for you.
@@TheMikrobeaccording to saga you do that when you realize that stealing isn't honorable. But you leave one door open so you can stand everyone coming out yourself.😂
you all see a polishing video. I see Matt showing his future squires how to polish his armor for the future apocalypse.
That was a nice video.
Please could you do a video on sword belts/attachment methods from 1700 and 1800?
Exactly the same setup for polishing the blades that I forge..!
Historic weapons and armor buff:
'I love buffing stuff!'
You should make a part 2 on removing rust
looks nice
So... how many medieval apprentices in a treadwheel are required to spin that buffing wheel?
Could you show us how to blue or blacken armor? I was always interested since those armors are said to require less to maintain.
How would a colorless lacquer look on shiny armor?
i like your method, but with buffing wheels you can get a bit of a buffing pattern to show on the item. i would recommend finishing by hand with a 1500-2000 grit wet/ dry sandpaper. they sell it at automotive stores. you can use it with oil or water. it will create a beautiful finish. just go with the grain of steel. its very quick to remove the wheel pattern.
Do you use lime powder to remove residue of the polishing compound
Thank you for your video on how to Polish armour. But another question still remains. How to English armour?
Is Polish Armour stronger than Russian? Tanks!
planished then polished or buffed steel is more conformed as it is flatter thus harder in practice.
Russian tank armour in ww2 was 600-700 Brinell which is brittle which is inferior to western & German tank armour from 200 to 400 Brinell depending on the portion.
Harder does not equate stronger as the manner of fracture does matter for the occupants of the armour.
Mind the USSR did not overly concern themselves with tank crew safety as they did not overly train tank crews to begin with.
Later German armour on tank by 1944 was vastly varying hardness & quality as allied bombing did a number on quality control!
harness wise middle ages armour was generally of more optimal hardness around 300 to 450 Brinell.
It is much more difficult to get consistent harness on large plate of armour like found on tanks.
Even the welding of plates together or the drilling for hole to rivet or mount fasteners can mess up hardness on potions.
The middles ages made holes with punch before tempering & so hardness was funnily more conform!
polish, Italian, HRE, French & English armour were of similar quality as blacksmiths often travelled to were war was expected or present unless a royal armour.
They went were the work was in short.
This is why large production of arms & armour was rarely far from navigable rivers & sea as the black smith in multiple trips would transport their workshops-livelihood.
Mind a young smith often had few tools he made he carried n his person or a pack animal.
Only in age did a black smith settle down as after his apprenticeship they would travel & work abroad to were work was to gain experience in their trade!
My Grand father & great grand father were Farriers, cartwrights, ship wrights & armourers for the royal armouries when they weren't soldiering though my grand dad did trades in his spare time as he ran a lorry yard being former logistics in the Korea war etcetera.
I learned all this stuff but such skills are not valued anymore!
Title: 'How to Polish Armour!'
Me: 'Pour Ballistol over it and scrub it with a sturdy cloth!'
Also me: * plays the video after making a first commend *
Who made the sallet, Art of Steel also?
with you doing this
made me think about a planned project I would like to start?
BUT I NEEN A TIG WELDING SET????????
I have made chainmail for myself and few little piece for my friends (only decorative) I used 1.2mm welding wire (because I am a welder) I have also use same size wire but using stainless steel.
my plan IF? I ever get a welder? is to buy 1 km of stainless steel spring wire and make a full shirt.
BUT by using stainless if you have a big enough washing machine (I have only made small chainmail pieces and I used a big rock polisher with just water and on dishwasher tab) you can throw it in and they will polish themselves against each other.
shinny chainmail
Been doing that with a Dremel... and many weekend hours...
I always thought you polished armor by putting giant wings on the back. Shows how much I know.
And that's how we lost the Knight of the Satin Hand.
Hint from an old knifemaker- spray the surface you're buffing every now and then with something like WD-40. Makes a difference, I find. Of course your fingers will get grubby but if you want clean fingers stay away from workshops!
Mmmm, I can taste this video 😬
As Polish,hav2 say-some polishing!.Love U Matt!All the best from Lodz.A bit of Monthy Python.😉Spanish rapier is insane.
You NEVER wear gloves when working with that type of machinery. At most wear fine disposable gloves which will tear off, and not drag your hand in, when they catch...and it will happen!
What? No squire labouring away with pumice, sand & various grades of cloth, down to a fine kid skin or chamois to buff your armour, Sir Matt of Easton?😉
Wystarczy nalepić biały i czerwony pasek koło siebie żeby biały był nad czerwonym albo cztery kwadraty, 2 białe i 2 czerwone jak na szachownicy!
I just couldn't resist the joke
ah yeah. armor polishing asmr
Which do you think is the most advanced one-handed battle ax? Or if you were a Viking and could have an ax from any time or place, what would it be? :) I like the francisca.
What! No fine sand? Is that not how it was done originally? Maybe followed by a cart load of horsetail?
Helmet.. you had to thumbnail the helmet 😂
Was expecting how armor was polished in the MA...
Don't worry Matt, I'm sure all the people satisfied by your polishing will be made up for by people complaining about your polishing setup.
Put a pierogi on it?
Very smooth but not quite the riveting footage I was looking for.
Isn't it usually not recommended to wear gloves with spinning wheels?
Buffing is probably the most dangerous part of knifemaking.
After green jewelers rouge go to red and get a real mirror polish
ASMR for sword enthusiasts!.
Now I'm wondering about stonewashing armor... 🤔
Effing hell I thought you were going to talk about Polish armor.
If you're worried about inhaling dust particles in the air, you should get a proper builders mask from a hardware store. The type of mask you're wearing doesn't filter out anything suspended in the air and is useless for that purpose.
Wait a tick now... when would a knights squire be using an electric buffing wheel?? a few rags, a bit of polish and equal parts elbow grease and bobs your uncle.
Polish at that time use mostly german style harnesses!
i think its harder to get things from mirror to satan polish? Or just a different wheel? dont show it you polish your armor away :)
😄
Now mirror polish them the authentic way ;'D
I can spend hours sharpening and polishing my kitchen knives and swords. All sorts of finishes. Satin, mirror, kasumi, sashikomi, migaki… Hours are needed as I do all my finishes completely by hand (I don’t have access to power tools and I don’t think it would be as fun anyway).
It’s an extremely relaxing activity. Perfect for listening to your videos to!
what if you are a lowlife student without access to machinery
Next vid: how to Czech your armor's Finnish.
Ahhhhhh gloves while operating turning machines
You just slap wings on it.
Reckon some ear protection might be a good idea. Noisy enough through the video.
Great video, but please strap that machine more firmly into the working bench, one wrong move and it will fly off catastrophically
Those medieval knights must have been good to polish armour without this stuff .(more likely the squires , and servants ).
took me 30 sec into the video to realize you didn't mean Polish as in the country
You make armour Polish by putting wings on it.
Polish armor look like that: ruclips.net/video/qHFMgM6xIRY/видео.html
Well, first of all, you add wings.
So instead of shoe shine it's gauntlet shine. 🤔🤭
I don't think that's the historically accurate equipment...
I'm just joking, in case anybody thinks I'm upset we're not watching a two hour demo.
Heh heh heh….polishing the helmet.
If you hadn't bought it in Ukraine but in Poland, you could have titled the video "How to polish Polish armor".
We must measure the performance of that Draper thingy in units of “squire power”!
garage door floors! wow its like seeing the backside of Mount Rushmore or something! not very interesting, expect you don't see it much.
Say kurwa and spin 3 times :)
Kurwa
polerowanie polskiej zbroi po polsku?
Go to Poland, buy armour, and your armor is Polsih now:)