I'm impressed the hot side was even able to reach the 59C+ water temperatures, with a COP value of betwen 2-3. I don't know if I could take that device home, but then again, the ones on the market costs thousands of euros, so this near 70€ device has some convincing features.
Pool heaters does somehow the same thing just with a water heat exchanger built in for the heating. The issue with pool heaters is that many of them are ineffective or downright useless under 5-12 plus degrees, rendering them useless for wintertime usage. A modification to your setup would be to get a heat exchanger from a broken pool heater, which would require a refill with gas afterwards.
Hi BubbaSnipe, I have such a pool heater and agree with you. It is a bit expensive (500€) so would prefer to put my hands on second hand mobile air conditioners for under 100€. Anyway, they are a great solution for the summer, when warm water (40℃) is useful for showers and preheating water for dishwasher & washing machine. A pity that they make quite some noise, so it would be good to bring the cold air through a hose into the living space. Also, a refill with gas (I bought already the hardware) is a bit difficult for the most of my target audience.
Thankyou for making these videos! I have a related concept in mind and you have proved there is merit in trying some experiments in using standard AC unit as the base components to be converted to a water heating heat pump. Looking forward to see whatever you think of next.
I'm glad you found the videos helpful! It's always exciting to see how standard components can be repurposed for innovative projects. Can't wait to present the next video about connecting the system to the central heating circuit. However, it is quite some plumbing with old connections that I have to disconnect 😟
Many people modify window A/C units for use as water chillers for fermentation cooling as an alternative to commercial glycol chillers. The typical advice is to remove the fins from the coils as the fins impede liquid flow through, as compared to the air they're designed for. If you have the ability, replacing either/both the evaporator and condenser with plate heat exchangers you'll get even more efficient heat transfer, at the cost of complexity and dealing with refrigerants.
Hi PunkDigerati, that is a good point, to take away the fins. It's even obvious, something should change if I change from air to water. I will try it. Or I should put entrance / exit of water at opposites sides of the heat exchanger and give the water no other way than the fins. I will try both and see what is also easy for the DIY.
This is a cool project but maybe for general usage the mini split heat pumps are a better idea because the compressors have variable speed (new 5KW/18000 BTU Midea cost 500 euros, i would imagine there are used mini splits with variable speed compressor), heat pumps loves to run constantly at a slower speed that's how you gain efficiency.
Hi Riste, indeed a 18 kBTU would charge the 2 water tanks much faster. I started years ago with a split but found it a challenge to put them together without the controls. Even if I got now this new experience of simply putting the power supply directly on the compressor. Anyway, it might be difficult for many DIY to unite the external/internal unit. I agree on the variable speed advantage, but again, it requires the knowledge to integrate the electronics and let it work even if you eliminate the fans, which we don't need anymore. The second reason that I think we can run it just at full speed is that all heat&cold will anyway go into the storage and it takes time before that is charged.
You've inspired me! This summer was the last one for my parents 10+ year old floor standing unit; the blowers squirrel cage cracked and my repairs we're unfortunately temporary. I'll see if I can give it a second life. It seems the only thing I'm missing is a bin or two to get started.
That's great Ostrich! Do you mean the squirrel cage like fan? That will be no problem because it is superfluous in the configuration. See video 61 where I eliminated the fans to see my fans. As long as the compressor works you can go on.
@@nnvasen-good-energy Yes. That's exactly it. Replacement was far too much but I might still give it one more look before I bend it all out of shape. I'll be sure to reference that video when it comes time. Thanks.
@@nnvasen-good-energy Upon further consideration I've realised there is one difficulty that may hamper performance. Galvanic Corrosion. Many of these radiators are aluminum fins pressed onto copper pipes in the end. Submerging them in plain water may be ideal for performance but having to use an oil bath instead; with another fluid to fluid heat exchanger in the loop may be necessary.
I agree that it may be an issue. In the past I played with a separated circuit but that was complex for me and for my audience. I am now just looking what happens and if I need, I strip away the fins, like another viewer suggested yesterday (the comment about cooling fermented drinks) to give more freedom of movement to the water.
@@nnvasen-good-energy I just spent a bit looking around and found the brewers glycol chillers. I've been convinced it should be fine so long as the coils are submerged in relatively pure water with an antifreeze mixed to suit.
Hi Matt, infrared heating is indeed very quick and in addition, it works even outside. Therefore they use it insights rooms like churches where people stay for only 1 hour.
Great video! Looking forward for the results after the connection with the central heating! Only one question, why did you put the condenser and the evaporatorin the same water box and then try to prevent water exchange from the hot side to the cold side? Why you didn't use seperate water boxes?
That was a dilemma indeed! I wanted to put the condensors and evaporators of two different air conditioners together in a cold and warm water box as you say, only the copper pipes are short and don't allow it. The solution is to find or make two containers that together have the volume of my water box. That is a good idea but I have to make it (I tried it in the past with plexiglass and silicones, not easy, it was always leaking, don't want this headache for my viewers). Not easy neither to find in the shops (or Amazon).
@nnvasen-good-energy buona sera. Apprezzo moltissimo il tuo lavoro, mi piacerebbe mettere in giardino un recipiente di mille libri, e usarlo per predere il calore memorizzato, La mia domanda è fino a quale temperatura e utilizzabile ( con andicello) ? E per ricaricare ci vorrebbero pannelli vaqumizati solari con flusso di Arquà. Che ne pensi ? Anche io mi occupo per sviluppare calore con poco energia. Uso delle calamite incollate in un rullo in alluminio. E lo faccio girare a ca 3000 giri Attorno al rullo ho messo Attorno tubi in Rame. Poi faccio circolare con una pompa l'acqua. L'acqua circa 10 litri si scalda in pochissimo tempo di 18 gradi a oltre 40 gradi . Ho fatto un video . Come te lo posso mandare? Privato. Fammi sapere. Eco il video, ruclips.net/video/-MuZdCUSp3k/видео.htmlsi=Dq6rvMUW1LzjZKWM
0:02 Salve. Molto efficiente la vostra idea 👍👍 Poso mandarti qualche video dei miei esperimenti, scaldo aqua con calamite e rame, con intuizione meccanico.
I have been thinking of this concept ever since I ve heard of the idea of a heat pump. Developing a system for the whole house of transferring heat to fridges and freezes but to be able to heat your home at the same time for Central heating and hot water. Is the optimal way of using energy And this system. As an engineer I would be intrigued myself in your expertise on how this could be possible as freezes go lower as 18c and fridges down to 4c.
Hi Grantmid, thanks for your comment. It is indeed intriguing how you can use all there is, like CHP (Combined Heat and Power), where you have also the challenge to find consumers for both heat and mechanical (or electric) power, more or less at the same time. But there are many CHP plants already, and double use of the heat pump seems rare. Freezers often use refrigerants like R-600a (isobutane) or R-134a, which are optimized for freezing temperatures. Air conditioners like my model here commonly use refrigerants like R290 or R-32, which are more effective in the temperature range suitable for cooling air in living spaces. I would like to f I am playing with the idea to cascade heat pumps of different temperatures so that I can go from -10℃ to 30℃ and from there with the second heat pump to 65℃. In that way you have an ice storage (which has a whopping 92 kWh per m³) at one side and real domestic hot water at the other side.
Only needed to watch this one video to know i need to subscribe! This is interesting. I'd love you to talk about maybe preheating the source by passive solar to maximise COP, possibilities of running on low voltage DC and risks of dangerous bacteria growth and how to prevent it.
Thank you again BeeTooEx! I also like to make live easy for the heat pump and in my last video with the experiment in (only) the water box I treated it not well. Next video I want to make the same measurement for the first 10℃ from the start (both water compartments at room temperature). Then going on to higher Delta T and see what happens to the COP. And I expect indeed that preheating and other tricks to reduce the Delta T will help to get amazing COP. But already having two big water tanks is so much better than the heat pump in winter that is trying to get heat from cold outside air...
Hi Taran, thank you for the question. I've been busy with the new video (which is now published). In thermal storage, saltwater doesn't offer significant advantages over pure water since the difference in heat capacity per volume is minimal, and the salt may introduce corrosion issues. How would you like to use it, I guess you will get it from the sea and maybe pure water is scarce where you are? That's indeed a good point...
Are ther any heat pumps that could be placed between two insualted rooms to crate a cold box and sauna room? Or possibly a cold plunge tub and sauna room? I'm assuming because the temperature is so wide it wouldn't be very efficient but probably couldn't get that type of temperature difference.
If you mean a cascaded heat pump, yes, it’s possible to DIY a cascaded heat pump system that operates across a wide temperature range (from -20°C to 80°C or more), but there are several technical challenges and risks to consider before diving into this project. The higher temperature heat pump would work on R-1234ze(E), CO₂ (R-744), or R-600a. That is not so easy, because you must also have the heat pump, where you put those refrigerants in (without problems of incompatible pressure). The lower temperature is not difficult, you just purchase a freezer.
Have you thought about how long the Al/cu condenser & evaporator w will last submerged in water? Electrolysis? I planning to use a 100meter deep unused water well as a source for a heat pump made from a r22 compressor ( available new ver cheap) converted to r290 ( propane) to heat my radiant slabs in my house. Good luck with your project.
I've been doing hvac for a long time and can say using 290 is a bad idea! R22 compressors are not arc proof and r290 systems are used for refrigeration limited to a couple ounces at most. If a leak, an arc, or something else happened then it could cause some damage but with fans running it shouldn't be too bad. The system you are proposing could turn into a really bad day! Residential hvac systems are not supposed to use highly flammable refrigerants for a reason! Please do not do this Since you said you are using newer compressor, it will have poe, not mineral oil in it. It would be a much better idea to use 407c or r422b. 407c being the better choice in my opinion. Either will work with an r22 compressor and if you are using a txv then it van be adjusted to make it work properly. pistons can be a little trickier I've been toying with something like this on and off for a couple years now and have a working prototype using coaxial coils and boiler pumps. Mostly easy to get, off the shelf parts.
Hi Kaf, At the start I was indeed concerned about leaving the condenser & evaporator in normal water and my first version worked with "technical water" in an isolated circuit, using anti corrosion additives in normal water and then exchanging heat in a metal pipe or 1 element of a radiator in the big tank. Now, I am putting it directly in water in order to avoid complexity and efficiency loss. I want to see (and tell) what happens with the condenser & evaporator. One step at a time. It's the reason that I like to work with cheap second hand equipment!
I see that Chris Geo is giving here below much detailed info, that goes beyond my experience, even if I purchased the tools to work with refrigerants and installed an app to calculate different refrigerants, seeing what pressures are at different temperatures and refrigerants. That kind of info is indeed very important to understand compatibility of refrigerants and equipment.
Look up the air conditioner's datasheet to see the COP at lower temperatures. Where do you intend to pull heat from? If you have a big pond you could pump water from that, as it will remain warmer than ambient. You may also need to use 2 heat pumps in series if you want to produce a much higher temperature difference efficiently.
See the comment of ThisRandomUsername, I agree with him. See also my answer to KevinRoberts below. If you put antifreeze in the liquid that goes to and from the water box, you will have your 1 m³ at -10℃ for example. Then you put many mineral water bottles with normal water in that big tank and only those bottles will freeze and during the phase change they will give a lot of heat. And when you don't use the heat pumps for a couple of hours, the surroundings can give their heat back to melt the ice again (for example by circulating the cold water with antifreeze not only in the water box and big tank, but also through an old radiator outside).
@@nnvasen-good-energy I love that idea! I have been wondering about phase change for a while, and sealing bottles and placing them in antifreeze is a fantastic way of achieving that.
Yes, I want to try it too, in our winter house, I think that water is the only PCM that is viable and it is so easy to change the freezing point of water by a degree or 10 and then freeze the floating bottles. This works for winter (when the container with floating bottles is the heat supplier to the evaporator) and for the summer (the same container is the supplier of cold water for space cooling). One system, two seasons!
Hi Hamza, I did not yet insulate the sound or vibrations but the compressor is mounted on rubber feet and if there are no objects on the base it is much more quiet than an air conditioner with its two strong fans.
Hi Effedrien, you got it right! Actually the heat efficiency is somewhat better than the cold efficiency. The challenge is, just like Combined Heat and Power, to find users at the same time. In summer that is easier than in winter. But if you store both as I do in the 2 big tanks, the consumption can be shifted in time.
Also, if the temperature difference between the 2 tanks is not so big, the efficiency is better than 2x2.5. So you may expect a rather quick reaching of the nominal temperature difference.
I have another video ruclips.net/video/bsuM8mFFwMw/видео.html about solar collectors. Certainly good if you need only heat. But in winter? This video is an idea to store excess PV energy. That is of course good for summer and then you need both warm and cold water (washing & cooling space). In winter this video is also a good solution to produce warm water 1. At a high efficiency (heat pump) 2. With the option to store cheaper (night) electricity. Even if the cogenerated cold will be not so useful in the winter, you can always let it warm up in some way (outside air if not too cold, or through spirals in the earth, we have a 70 m³ rainwater collector under ground). In each case, the heat pump in this configuration has less work than the usual air to air heat pumps that really have difficulty to work already at 7℃ outside temperature.
@@nnvasen-good-energy in the winter, if you let the cold tank warm up in outside air, how is that more efficient than an air-to-air heat pump? Is it more efficient because the water buffers the temperature over time?
Yes, cold air in the evaporator during winter really goes down a lot and humidity will freeze in the fins. With a water to water heat pump the medium is much more constant (heat capacity) while around the evaporator and with antifreeze it will not freeze like humid air.
I'm impressed the hot side was even able to reach the 59C+ water temperatures, with a COP value of betwen 2-3. I don't know if I could take that device home, but then again, the ones on the market costs thousands of euros, so this near 70€ device has some convincing features.
I see these types of devices for prices between 200 and 400€. But after a whole summer of noise the people are glad to be rid of them!
I was surprised about those 60 degrees too but it's not convenient for us to let them walk on their toes.
Pool heaters does somehow the same thing just with a water heat exchanger built in for the heating. The issue with pool heaters is that many of them are ineffective or downright useless under 5-12 plus degrees, rendering them useless for wintertime usage. A modification to your setup would be to get a heat exchanger from a broken pool heater, which would require a refill with gas afterwards.
Hi BubbaSnipe, I have such a pool heater and agree with you. It is a bit expensive (500€) so would prefer to put my hands on second hand mobile air conditioners for under 100€. Anyway, they are a great solution for the summer, when warm water (40℃) is useful for showers and preheating water for dishwasher & washing machine. A pity that they make quite some noise, so it would be good to bring the cold air through a hose into the living space.
Also, a refill with gas (I bought already the hardware) is a bit difficult for the most of my target audience.
Thankyou for making these videos! I have a related concept in mind and you have proved there is merit in trying some experiments in using standard AC unit as the base components to be converted to a water heating heat pump. Looking forward to see whatever you think of next.
I'm glad you found the videos helpful! It's always exciting to see how standard components can be repurposed for innovative projects. Can't wait to present the next video about connecting the system to the central heating circuit. However, it is quite some plumbing with old connections that I have to disconnect 😟
Many people modify window A/C units for use as water chillers for fermentation cooling as an alternative to commercial glycol chillers. The typical advice is to remove the fins from the coils as the fins impede liquid flow through, as compared to the air they're designed for. If you have the ability, replacing either/both the evaporator and condenser with plate heat exchangers you'll get even more efficient heat transfer, at the cost of complexity and dealing with refrigerants.
Hi PunkDigerati, that is a good point, to take away the fins. It's even obvious, something should change if I change from air to water. I will try it. Or I should put entrance / exit of water at opposites sides of the heat exchanger and give the water no other way than the fins. I will try both and see what is also easy for the DIY.
This is a cool project but maybe for general usage the mini split heat pumps are a better idea because the compressors have variable speed (new 5KW/18000 BTU Midea cost 500 euros, i would imagine there are used mini splits with variable speed compressor), heat pumps loves to run constantly at a slower speed that's how you gain efficiency.
Hi Riste, indeed a 18 kBTU would charge the 2 water tanks much faster. I started years ago with a split but found it a challenge to put them together without the controls. Even if I got now this new experience of simply putting the power supply directly on the compressor. Anyway, it might be difficult for many DIY to unite the external/internal unit.
I agree on the variable speed advantage, but again, it requires the knowledge to integrate the electronics and let it work even if you eliminate the fans, which we don't need anymore. The second reason that I think we can run it just at full speed is that all heat&cold will anyway go into the storage and it takes time before that is charged.
You've inspired me! This summer was the last one for my parents 10+ year old floor standing unit; the blowers squirrel cage cracked and my repairs we're unfortunately temporary. I'll see if I can give it a second life. It seems the only thing I'm missing is a bin or two to get started.
That's great Ostrich! Do you mean the squirrel cage like fan? That will be no problem because it is superfluous in the configuration. See video 61 where I eliminated the fans to see my fans. As long as the compressor works you can go on.
@@nnvasen-good-energy Yes. That's exactly it. Replacement was far too much but I might still give it one more look before I bend it all out of shape.
I'll be sure to reference that video when it comes time. Thanks.
@@nnvasen-good-energy Upon further consideration I've realised there is one difficulty that may hamper performance. Galvanic Corrosion. Many of these radiators are aluminum fins pressed onto copper pipes in the end. Submerging them in plain water may be ideal for performance but having to use an oil bath instead; with another fluid to fluid heat exchanger in the loop may be necessary.
I agree that it may be an issue. In the past I played with a separated circuit but that was complex for me and for my audience. I am now just looking what happens and if I need, I strip away the fins, like another viewer suggested yesterday (the comment about cooling fermented drinks) to give more freedom of movement to the water.
@@nnvasen-good-energy I just spent a bit looking around and found the brewers glycol chillers. I've been convinced it should be fine so long as the coils are submerged in relatively pure water with an antifreeze mixed to suit.
i put a 250w heat lamp above my kitchen table. instant heat, it is my favorite heater!
Hi Matt, infrared heating is indeed very quick and in addition, it works even outside. Therefore they use it insights rooms like churches where people stay for only 1 hour.
Great video! Looking forward for the results after the connection with the central heating! Only one question, why did you put the condenser and the evaporatorin the same water box and then try to prevent water exchange from the hot side to the cold side? Why you didn't use seperate water boxes?
That was a dilemma indeed! I wanted to put the condensors and evaporators of two different air conditioners together in a cold and warm water box as you say, only the copper pipes are short and don't allow it. The solution is to find or make two containers that together have the volume of my water box. That is a good idea but I have to make it (I tried it in the past with plexiglass and silicones, not easy, it was always leaking, don't want this headache for my viewers). Not easy neither to find in the shops (or Amazon).
In spanish...gracias por compartir estás cosas. Desde España
Gracias Francisco por tu aprecio. Me impresionó Ávila cuando tuve una visita de trabajo a Valencia. Tan agradable con sus paredes alrededor.
@@nnvasen-good-energy
Gracias a usted, inspira su conocimiento y perspectiva vida, energía. Gracias.
Cada palabra lleva un fruto.
Grazie.
Ciao Giovanni, pensi di usarlo?
@nnvasen-good-energy buona sera.
Apprezzo moltissimo il tuo lavoro, mi piacerebbe mettere in giardino un recipiente di mille libri, e usarlo per predere il calore memorizzato,
La mia domanda è fino a quale temperatura e utilizzabile ( con andicello)
?
E per ricaricare ci vorrebbero pannelli vaqumizati solari con flusso di Arquà.
Che ne pensi ?
Anche io mi occupo per sviluppare calore con poco energia.
Uso delle calamite incollate in un rullo in alluminio.
E lo faccio girare a ca 3000 giri
Attorno al rullo ho messo Attorno tubi in Rame.
Poi faccio circolare con una pompa l'acqua.
L'acqua circa 10 litri si scalda in pochissimo tempo di 18 gradi a oltre 40 gradi .
Ho fatto un video . Come te lo posso mandare?
Privato.
Fammi sapere.
Eco il video, ruclips.net/video/-MuZdCUSp3k/видео.htmlsi=Dq6rvMUW1LzjZKWM
0:02 Salve.
Molto efficiente la vostra idea 👍👍
Poso mandarti qualche video dei miei esperimenti, scaldo aqua con calamite e rame, con intuizione meccanico.
Ciao Warmetechnik, questo nome sembra tedesco. Grazie per l'apprezzamento! Ci possiamo collegare su LinkedIn? Usa "n vasen" e mi trovi.
I have been thinking of this concept ever since I ve heard of the idea of a heat pump.
Developing a system for the whole house of transferring heat to fridges and freezes but to be able to heat your home at the same time for Central heating and hot water. Is the optimal way of using energy And this system.
As an engineer I would be intrigued myself in your expertise on how this could be possible as freezes go lower as 18c and fridges down to 4c.
Hi Grantmid, thanks for your comment.
It is indeed intriguing how you can use all there is, like CHP (Combined Heat and Power), where you have also the challenge to find consumers for both heat and mechanical (or electric) power, more or less at the same time. But there are many CHP plants already, and double use of the heat pump seems rare.
Freezers often use refrigerants like R-600a (isobutane) or R-134a, which are optimized for freezing temperatures. Air conditioners like my model here commonly use refrigerants like R290 or R-32, which are more effective in the temperature range suitable for cooling air in living spaces. I would like to f
I am playing with the idea to cascade heat pumps of different temperatures so that I can go from -10℃ to 30℃ and from there with the second heat pump to 65℃. In that way you have an ice storage (which has a whopping 92 kWh per m³) at one side and real domestic hot water at the other side.
Only needed to watch this one video to know i need to subscribe! This is interesting. I'd love you to talk about maybe preheating the source by passive solar to maximise COP, possibilities of running on low voltage DC and risks of dangerous bacteria growth and how to prevent it.
Thank you again BeeTooEx! I also like to make live easy for the heat pump and in my last video with the experiment in (only) the water box I treated it not well. Next video I want to make the same measurement for the first 10℃ from the start (both water compartments at room temperature). Then going on to higher Delta T and see what happens to the COP. And I expect indeed that preheating and other tricks to reduce the Delta T will help to get amazing COP. But already having two big water tanks is so much better than the heat pump in winter that is trying to get heat from cold outside air...
Can saltwater store more heat/Temperature than "normal" water?
Hi Taran, thank you for the question. I've been busy with the new video (which is now published). In thermal storage, saltwater doesn't offer significant advantages over pure water since the difference in heat capacity per volume is minimal, and the salt may introduce corrosion issues. How would you like to use it, I guess you will get it from the sea and maybe pure water is scarce where you are? That's indeed a good point...
Are ther any heat pumps that could be placed between two insualted rooms to crate a cold box and sauna room? Or possibly a cold plunge tub and sauna room? I'm assuming because the temperature is so wide it wouldn't be very efficient but probably couldn't get that type of temperature difference.
If you mean a cascaded heat pump, yes, it’s possible to DIY a cascaded heat pump system that operates across a wide temperature range (from -20°C to 80°C or more), but there are several technical challenges and risks to consider before diving into this project. The higher temperature heat pump would work on R-1234ze(E), CO₂ (R-744), or R-600a. That is not so easy, because you must also have the heat pump, where you put those refrigerants in (without problems of incompatible pressure). The lower temperature is not difficult, you just purchase a freezer.
@@nnvasen-good-energy sounds expensive... A standard sauna heater it is then.
Have you thought about how long the Al/cu condenser & evaporator w will last submerged in water? Electrolysis?
I planning to use a 100meter deep unused water well as a source for a heat pump made from a r22 compressor ( available new ver cheap) converted to r290 ( propane) to heat my radiant slabs in my house. Good luck with your project.
I've been doing hvac for a long time and can say using 290 is a bad idea! R22 compressors are not arc proof and r290 systems are used for refrigeration limited to a couple ounces at most. If a leak, an arc, or something else happened then it could cause some damage but with fans running it shouldn't be too bad. The system you are proposing could turn into a really bad day! Residential hvac systems are not supposed to use highly flammable refrigerants for a reason! Please do not do this
Since you said you are using newer compressor, it will have poe, not mineral oil in it. It would be a much better idea to use 407c or r422b. 407c being the better choice in my opinion. Either will work with an r22 compressor and if you are using a txv then it van be adjusted to make it work properly. pistons can be a little trickier
I've been toying with something like this on and off for a couple years now and have a working prototype using coaxial coils and boiler pumps. Mostly easy to get, off the shelf parts.
Hi Kaf, At the start I was indeed concerned about leaving the condenser & evaporator in normal water and my first version worked with "technical water" in an isolated circuit, using anti corrosion additives in normal water and then exchanging heat in a metal pipe or 1 element of a radiator in the big tank. Now, I am putting it directly in water in order to avoid complexity and efficiency loss. I want to see (and tell) what happens with the condenser & evaporator.
One step at a time. It's the reason that I like to work with cheap second hand equipment!
I see that Chris Geo is giving here below much detailed info, that goes beyond my experience, even if I purchased the tools to work with refrigerants and installed an app to calculate different refrigerants, seeing what pressures are at different temperatures and refrigerants. That kind of info is indeed very important to understand compatibility of refrigerants and equipment.
I want to keep my experiments simple, in general, so that they can be done by many.
Can I do this in a colder climate? Like where the outside temperature is below freezing?
Look up the air conditioner's datasheet to see the COP at lower temperatures. Where do you intend to pull heat from? If you have a big pond you could pump water from that, as it will remain warmer than ambient. You may also need to use 2 heat pumps in series if you want to produce a much higher temperature difference efficiently.
See the comment of ThisRandomUsername, I agree with him. See also my answer to KevinRoberts below. If you put antifreeze in the liquid that goes to and from the water box, you will have your 1 m³ at -10℃ for example. Then you put many mineral water bottles with normal water in that big tank and only those bottles will freeze and during the phase change they will give a lot of heat. And when you don't use the heat pumps for a couple of hours, the surroundings can give their heat back to melt the ice again (for example by circulating the cold water with antifreeze not only in the water box and big tank, but also through an old radiator outside).
@@nnvasen-good-energy I love that idea! I have been wondering about phase change for a while, and sealing bottles and placing them in antifreeze is a fantastic way of achieving that.
Yes, I want to try it too, in our winter house, I think that water is the only PCM that is viable and it is so easy to change the freezing point of water by a degree or 10 and then freeze the floating bottles.
This works for winter (when the container with floating bottles is the heat supplier to the evaporator) and for the summer (the same container is the supplier of cold water for space cooling). One system, two seasons!
How did you isolate the box for the noise?
Hi Hamza, I did not yet insulate the sound or vibrations but the compressor is mounted on rubber feet and if there are no objects on the base it is much more quiet than an air conditioner with its two strong fans.
I would think the gain is only x5 if you simultaneously use the cold and the heat 🤔 otherwise it's just x2.5, no?
Hi Effedrien, you got it right! Actually the heat efficiency is somewhat better than the cold efficiency. The challenge is, just like Combined Heat and Power, to find users at the same time. In summer that is easier than in winter. But if you store both as I do in the 2 big tanks, the consumption can be shifted in time.
Also, if the temperature difference between the 2 tanks is not so big, the efficiency is better than 2x2.5. So you may expect a rather quick reaching of the nominal temperature difference.
Use solar panels to heat the water tanks.
I have another video ruclips.net/video/bsuM8mFFwMw/видео.html about solar collectors. Certainly good if you need only heat. But in winter?
This video is an idea to store excess PV energy. That is of course good for summer and then you need both warm and cold water (washing & cooling space). In winter this video is also a good solution to produce warm water
1. At a high efficiency (heat pump)
2. With the option to store cheaper (night) electricity.
Even if the cogenerated cold will be not so useful in the winter, you can always let it warm up in some way (outside air if not too cold, or through spirals in the earth, we have a 70 m³ rainwater collector under ground). In each case, the heat pump in this configuration has less work than the usual air to air heat pumps that really have difficulty to work already at 7℃ outside temperature.
@@nnvasen-good-energy in the winter, if you let the cold tank warm up in outside air, how is that more efficient than an air-to-air heat pump? Is it more efficient because the water buffers the temperature over time?
Yes, cold air in the evaporator during winter really goes down a lot and humidity will freeze in the fins. With a water to water heat pump the medium is much more constant (heat capacity) while around the evaporator and with antifreeze it will not freeze like humid air.