Here's a timesaving tip: Since you're going to replace the old drywall, instead of chipping the old tile off the wall, cut around it with a wallboard or other saw, then gently pry the drywall from the studs and take the whole thing off in one piece. For the long side of the bathtub, you may need to cut it in half,
Excellent video! The host was so enthusiastic. After watching her I feel like I can do this too. I'll probably have to watch the video twenty more times but I'll get it. Thank you for the inspiration!
@@jasielcalixto you can tell what's behind original bathroom tiles based on the year the house was built. 50s-70s is gonna be metal lathe with a mortar bed floated over it. 80s to 90s and even early 2000s is gonna be straight drywall. 2000s and up is gonna be where we get into cement board and depending on the builder you could see some waterproofing systems.
What's amazing is how well she cleaned off the mortar from the old drywall when removing the tile. I'm going to have to ask for some of that stuff the next time I drop by Lowe's.
Additional updates added below! I went to my local Lowe's for a tile class today and I was disappointed that they had had a miscommunication about the class. The Store Manager, Will, was so nice that he has arranged to have a private class for me tomorrow on Super Bowl Sunday at 4pm! That is how you satisfy a customer. I am so excited that he cared enough to make sure that I remained a satisfied Lowe's customer. I am in that store 2 or 3 times a week and they call me the project lady. I want to re-tile my fireplaces, master bedroom showers, backsplash and around my kitchen sink. Well it starts with my first class tomorrow. Thanks Lowe's I had my Super Bowl Sunday Tile tutorial! It was so much fun! First of all I am so flattered that they setup an actual wall for my private class. Josh, my amazing teacher, demonstrated the howto process and he had me do the actual process from beginning to end. I tiled! I applied adhesive and grout. And I cleaned the tile. I think this was the best Super Bowl Sunday EVER! Special thanks to Will and Josh at Lowe’s in Kathleen. 👍👍👍👍👍
That's really nice. I went to one and I was super disappointed. There was a group and only 1 or 2 ppl could tile. Those classes are not what they portray to be. Glad Will worked it out for you!
Protip-- Dont make a quarter inch expansion gap along the tub..that is way too big..one eighth or slightly less is fine. Look at that ridiculous gap at 6:28
@@Cunningcrow in this case An expanation gap is a bit of a misnomer...should call it a 'flex gap'. When you step in a tub it will flex..grouting all the way down may crack as a result of the constant flexing over time...especially acrylic tubs. Conversely, in an aquatic center steam room for example, its all tile and grout only..no silicone... because its is only made of tile and grout (epoxy grout).
In the "Old Days" we floated the tile on concrete and chicken wire, similar to stuccoing the exterior of a house. It was designed to last forever and no chance of any water leakage if done correctly. The downside of this is that when it all needs to be removed for a remodel, it's a back-breaking job and usually requires an impact hammer. Anyone who used standard drywall for a shower tile installation would have been laughed out of the place. It sure would make tearing out a lot easier, though! :) Otherwise, a very helpful video for a lot of folks.
That’s the current situation I have. There are some cracks in it. Can it be patched or do you think I have to remove it all and put a new cement backer?
@@ahappyimago dont know what you did but removing and replacing with cement backer is the way to go. you can always float over the backer board if needed
@@beardedbarnstormer9577 The backer was so thick and there also waterproof black paper behind it. So all we did was put Redguard over the cracks. Between the porcelain tile, thinset, cement backer, and black paper I think the walls should be fine.
@@ahappyimago not bad. Id thinset the cracks and put tape to stop them from reappearing in the future if you do it again. Cover that with redguard and you're G2G
Loved this video!!!! I've done some tile work before but this was an awesome refresher course with great reminders and updated methods since the last time I did it was 2007. :)
Great video, appreciate the effort that went into it. However you need to update your links, about half the stuff in the Products Used list is showing as "No longer for sale at Lowes".
This is a really good video. The only thing that would make this video better is talking about the type of mortar needed for shower tile. Not all mortars are suitable and can be easy to overlook.
SO EASY. I HAVE WATCHED THIS VIDEO ABOUT TEN TIMES. ALL I KNOW NOW IS I HAVE A LOT OF QUESTIONS. HOW DO WE GET THE BACKER BOARD OF THE SAME THICKNESS? IS THIS REALLY MEANT TO HELP OR CONFUSE?
she didn't actually do this lmao when the camera panned over they have Juan and Jose do the whole thing professionally then this stupid Sally comes in talking about girl power hahahahahaha
So do you use morter and mesh tape for the transition from backer board to drywall as well? They kinda skipped that..and should I primer the drywall before the morter is applied to the trasition so that I'm not applying it over old paint?
Thanks for the video. When the 1/4" shims are placed under the backer board, what happens later? Do you just take the shims out right before putting the mesh tape there?
While redoing my 1947 house, the bathroom tile sat on concrete and metal lathe mesh. It took a sledgehammer to take it out. My back wishes it was drywall backing. Plywood & cement board worked well to replace the wall.
I’m not a fan with painting the cement boards. Thinset attaches better to porous surfaces. Once the boards are painted, were is the adhesive strength? In the paint?
Thanks for the video, just a quick question. What if I need to tile it to the ceiling or tile the entire bathroom wall, do I need apply water proofing before that or can I just do the wall tiling
I don't see how to fix the gap at the bottom close to the tub.... also does the backerboard go behind the tub, in front(on top).... how did it get sealed?
Yes. The board does more than provide a level reference line. It will support the tile courses during installation so the rows don’t sag. Don’t remove the board until the thinset mortar is fully dried.
Why install the horizontal guide for the second row and then install the bottom row last? Can that step be skipped or could another guide method be used? Seems like a bad idea to screw that guide in and create new holes in the backer board. Those holes were only sealed with paint on sealant, seems like that could allow moisture to get behind the wall after working so hard to install the backer board.
At 2:07 it is suggested the cement board is set 1/4 inch above the tub or shower as an 'expansion gap' Actually, it's essential to stay high because cement board is not actually waterproof. It will wick water up and eventually damage the framing.
Overall, a pretty good video. If I may add my two cents worth: most builders use ordinary drywall screws to fasten cement board. I do, every six inches along the studs. Don't over-drive them or they will lose their holding power. Some pros say this is a no-no, but in my experience drywall screws have stood up well for decades, as seen in demolitions and renos. Aqua Defense or Red Guard are both decent roll-on water-resistant membranes. Cement board is NOT waterproof so do not be tempted to skip this step, even though these roll-on products are ridiculously expensive (I just paid Can$120 for a small pail of Red Guard). Apply a minimum of two coats, with at least 1 1/2 hours drying time between coats. I use PermaBASE cement board, which is terribly porous (thousands of pits) so it takes three coats to properly seal it. A real pain. I don't know if Hardibacker might be a better choice. Under ideal conditions you can start tiling just 1 1/2 hours after the final coat of membrane. Some people like mastic, because it's so convenient, but most of the builders I know use thinset mortar. It really comes down to personal choice.
So if the original tile had just drywall behind it and there was no mold or moisture present as revealed, then why is it so necessary to put the cement board up instead of drywall again?
It is said before you tile a place you shold put water on it first to moisten area. If you plan to tile a stairs that has water resistant paint on it should you still damp it?
What are the 1/4 in shims for when place back board and how do you cover the gap and thenhow do you cover the 1/4 in shim after you place the title do you just use caulk to cover it
Maybe I’m slow, but I just realize the whole purpose of this is to convince homeowners that they can do this kind of work themselves, buy a ton of materials and tools, and then have to hire a professional to fix the project when they screw up, thus selling more tools and supplies! ; )
There's literally only two types you can buy. Cement board (the one she used) and Hardie Backer (tougher to cut, but more long lasting). All next to each other at Lowes.
That's a bathtub shower. Try a shower that needs a mud pan base. How high do I need to set the backerboard to allow for the base to be mudded in? There's a lot of good information in the video; however, there needs to be a part deuce to cover a shower and not a bathtub/shower combo.
Always use a level to check framing in the wall before hanging durarock. Check for plumb and level and shim if needed. If you dont tile edges will not be even for grout. Just sayin....
The replacement tile doesn'y look appealing but I guess everyone has different taste. I was going to DIY my bathroom and put some nice tiles but this video discouraged me to do it. lol
So cement backer board is going in place of the old drywall. I may be mistaken but wouldn’t the new tile shower wall be somewhat flimsy, even flex with enough light pressure?
I am not sure about being lucrative but when i will be remodeling my second bathroom it will be backerboard . I had drywall in the first one and it literally disintegrated like a powder when i took it out.I was 25 years old . No more dry wall for me in any wet area.
actually, the first step is to check for ASBESTOS in the drywall before doing anything!.....houses built before mid 1980s, there is a good chance the drywall and/or joint compound has asbestos (maybe up to 20%).. you don't want to take one breath around asbestos...
That just opens a can of worms for homeowners. Demolish the bathroom slowly and methodically, dampen the drywall with a spray bottle as you go, and don't use a sawzall. Here in Canada, only the drywall compound had asbestos in it, never the drywall itself. I've had a local lab check this on a recent reno, and sure enough the compound was contaminated. I know folks are terribly afraid of asbestos, but it takes years of exposure to asbestos to cause disease. Don't push your luck, but don't be paralyzed into inaction either.
These videos really set Lowe's apart from HD. Thanks Lowe's!
yuo can say tht agin
Here's a timesaving tip: Since you're going to replace the old drywall, instead of chipping the old tile off the wall, cut around it with a wallboard or other saw, then gently pry the drywall from the studs and take the whole thing off in one piece.
For the long side of the bathtub, you may need to cut it in half,
Lol I was thinking the same thing. Spectacular tip, Matt
Excellent tip. I guess since she was basically working by herself she tried to make the project as easy and less risky as possible.
I guess she didn’t know what she had behind that tile. It could’ve been cement board instead of the drywall.
This is exactly what I did. Cut out big pieces of the tile and wall, threw them out the window and let's the small pieces fall into a garbage bag.
For real they trying to make this take 1000000 hours they be getting paid x20 per hour
Excellent video! The host was so enthusiastic. After watching her I feel like I can do this too. I'll probably have to watch the video twenty more times but I'll get it. Thank you for the inspiration!
It’s not as easy as she shows it to be. Not saying you can’t do it, but this is a big job.
Thanks for the video. I was going to do it myself. Now I know this is a job for a professional not an dyi dreamer!
🤣😂🤣 my thoughts exactly
Lol same. Pinterest has me hallucinating
I was going to hire a professional but after watching this video-->>
Time to buy a trowel with big tooths!!!😃😃😃
Same here, plus have to buy the tools just for one job 🗯
No such thing as a "DIY dreamer" that's called a skill issue. Even the professionals started somewhere.
You could just remove the drywall with the tile attached to it, since it’s getting replaced. Saves a lot of time. 👍🏽😊
Yep. No sense taking the tile off and then removing the drywall.
What if you don't know what's behind the tile?
@@jasielcalixto you can tell what's behind original bathroom tiles based on the year the house was built. 50s-70s is gonna be metal lathe with a mortar bed floated over it. 80s to 90s and even early 2000s is gonna be straight drywall. 2000s and up is gonna be where we get into cement board and depending on the builder you could see some waterproofing systems.
Jasiel Calixto take one tile off 🤷🏽♂️
@@yuyiboy Good idea :)
What's amazing is how well she cleaned off the mortar from the old drywall when removing the tile. I'm going to have to ask for some of that stuff the next time I drop by Lowe's.
World wide137 LOL!
Lmao that double lay Sheetrock
LoL 😂
@52sec. it looks like durock sticking through mortar 😳but next seen is new sheetrock😂
lmao
Additional updates added below!
I went to my local Lowe's for a tile class today and I was disappointed that they had had a miscommunication about the class. The Store Manager, Will, was so nice that he has arranged to have a private class for me tomorrow on Super Bowl Sunday at 4pm! That is how you satisfy a customer. I am so excited that he cared enough to make sure that I remained a satisfied Lowe's customer. I am in that store 2 or 3 times a week and they call me the project lady. I want to re-tile my fireplaces, master bedroom showers, backsplash and around my kitchen sink. Well it starts with my first class tomorrow. Thanks Lowe's
I had my Super Bowl Sunday Tile tutorial! It was so much fun! First of all I am so flattered that they setup an actual wall for my private class. Josh, my amazing teacher, demonstrated the howto process and he had me do the actual process from beginning to end. I tiled! I applied adhesive and grout. And I cleaned the tile. I think this was the best Super Bowl Sunday EVER! Special thanks to Will and Josh at Lowe’s in Kathleen. 👍👍👍👍👍
AMATEUR DECORATING LIKE A PRO wow I thought you were being sarcastic when you said he set a time for you on super bowl Sunday.
That's really nice. I went to one and I was super disappointed. There was a group and only 1 or 2 ppl could tile. Those classes are not what they portray to be. Glad Will worked it out for you!
Wow, you don't hear stories like this very often lol
it sounds like he's taking your ass 🤣
Protip-- Dont make a quarter inch expansion gap along the tub..that is way too big..one eighth or slightly less is fine.
Look at that ridiculous gap at 6:28
I wasnt gonna say anything lol glad you did
Can I ask what will expand? I didn’t think that fibre cement board, tiles nor grout where likely to change shape?
@@Cunningcrow in this case An expanation gap is a bit of a misnomer...should call it a 'flex gap'. When you step in a tub it will flex..grouting all the way down may crack as a result of the constant flexing over time...especially acrylic tubs. Conversely, in an aquatic center steam room for example, its all tile and grout only..no silicone... because its is only made of tile and grout (epoxy grout).
Rb S thanks for the info
6:39 bottom right finished product. Anyone can do this stuff.
In the "Old Days" we floated the tile on concrete and chicken wire, similar to stuccoing the exterior of a house. It was designed to last forever and no chance of any water leakage if done correctly. The downside of this is that when it all needs to be removed for a remodel, it's a back-breaking job and usually requires an impact hammer. Anyone who used standard drywall for a shower tile installation would have been laughed out of the place. It sure would make tearing out a lot easier, though! :)
Otherwise, a very helpful video for a lot of folks.
That’s the current situation I have. There are some cracks in it. Can it be patched or do you think I have to remove it all and put a new cement backer?
@@ahappyimago dont know what you did but removing and replacing with cement backer is the way to go. you can always float over the backer board if needed
@@beardedbarnstormer9577 The backer was so thick and there also waterproof black paper behind it. So all we did was put Redguard over the cracks. Between the porcelain tile, thinset, cement backer, and black paper I think the walls should be fine.
@@ahappyimago not bad. Id thinset the cracks and put tape to stop them from reappearing in the future if you do it again. Cover that with redguard and you're G2G
Informative and great presentation. She is entertaining!
Excellent. Concise yet detailed. Thanks!
That is a professional. Yes, cement wall is need for shower tiling.
Im right in the middle of this project. Im excited to see the tips.
How's it coming along?
K Mit I bet they never finished lol 😂
*jiggles zipper*
Got a tip right here for you! 😂
@@Jeff77398 Did you just fucking cat call a woman in the god damn RUclips comments?!
Loved this video!!!! I've done some tile work before but this was an awesome refresher course with great reminders and updated methods since the last time I did it was 2007. :)
Great video, appreciate the effort that went into it. However you need to update your links, about half the stuff in the Products Used list is showing as "No longer for sale at Lowes".
This is a great video! I wish I found this earlier. There are a lot of youtube videos, but this has the best info!
This is a really good video. The only thing that would make this video better is talking about the type of mortar needed for shower tile. Not all mortars are suitable and can be easy to overlook.
Nicely done. Amazing video. Charming woman.
SO EASY. I HAVE WATCHED THIS VIDEO ABOUT TEN TIMES. ALL I KNOW NOW IS I HAVE A LOT OF QUESTIONS. HOW DO WE GET THE BACKER BOARD OF THE SAME THICKNESS? IS THIS REALLY MEANT TO HELP OR CONFUSE?
Love that this video features a woman! We can do anything. Just the inspo I needed!
Why do muricans like bringing gender/religion/politics into everything?
women make DIY projects look so effortless,now I'm like let me go do this
Kdkdkdkfkrkrjrjfmdmdkrkrkrk 😂
I find it very insulting for them to use a woman to show how simple something is, makes us seem dumb.
she didn't actually do this lmao when the camera panned over they have Juan and Jose do the whole thing professionally then this stupid Sally comes in talking about girl power hahahahahaha
Thank you I learned so much from watching these videos they are awesome thanks again
So do you use morter and mesh tape for the transition from backer board to drywall as well? They kinda skipped that..and should I primer the drywall before the morter is applied to the trasition so that I'm not applying it over old paint?
Thanks for the video. When the 1/4" shims are placed under the backer board, what happens later? Do you just take the shims out right before putting the mesh tape there?
Yes
While redoing my 1947 house, the bathroom tile sat on concrete and metal lathe mesh. It took a sledgehammer to take it out. My back wishes it was drywall backing. Plywood & cement board worked well to replace the wall.
Great video thanks for making this 👍 😊
i recommend james hardie products where possible including dry wall
Very informative! Thanks Lowe's!
Look the way you explain, short but very informative 😎
I’m not a fan with painting the cement boards. Thinset attaches better to porous surfaces. Once the boards are painted, were is the adhesive strength? In the paint?
insane in the membrane 😤
Thanks for the video, just a quick question. What if I need to tile it to the ceiling or tile the entire bathroom wall, do I need apply water proofing before that or can I just do the wall tiling
Well done; thank you for the lesson.
I loved your advice about mold. I learned the way.
I don't see how to fix the gap at the bottom close to the tub.... also does the backerboard go behind the tub, in front(on top).... how did it get sealed?
If you have a laser line level and draw a marker line toward the bottom, do you still need the wooden screwed in guide piece?
Yes. The board does more than provide a level reference line.
It will support the tile courses during installation so the rows don’t sag. Don’t remove the board until the thinset mortar is fully dried.
Great video! Very informative and well done!
So easy to follow!
After I watch this, I decide to hire professional to do it...
Yeah made me feel stressed.
Really???
lol.
Don’t blame you! I’m halfway done installing and 2 weeks in! Just trying to enjoy the journey😅
Finding mold or some such thing also worries me.
Why install the horizontal guide for the second row and then install the bottom row last? Can that step be skipped or could another guide method be used? Seems like a bad idea to screw that guide in and create new holes in the backer board. Those holes were only sealed with paint on sealant, seems like that could allow moisture to get behind the wall after working so hard to install the backer board.
At 2:07 it is suggested the cement board is set 1/4 inch above the tub or shower as an 'expansion gap' Actually, it's essential to stay high because cement board is not actually waterproof. It will wick water up and eventually damage the framing.
Love the tile
The best video
Super cool and well put together
Thank you
Great work ❤❤
For dusty jobs, do not have your vents going. I learned that the hard way. You will get dust into your HVAC system
Professionals are upgrading my bathroom while I watch this.
Wow, that's so exciting!
I need to follow this, but that tile design is God awful
My wife thought it was pretty cool.
You know what, I like her get her a raise
Can use Schulter too. I believe this is the other option to concrete backer board
Schluter kerdiboard is completely waterproof and is an excellent choice. It is more costly though so budget could play a factor in choice.
It's expensive, very expensive, but everyone who's used it loves it. I plan to give it a try on my next project.
Overall, a pretty good video. If I may add my two cents worth: most builders use ordinary drywall screws to fasten cement board. I do, every six inches along the studs. Don't over-drive them or they will lose their holding power. Some pros say this is a no-no, but in my experience drywall screws have stood up well for decades, as seen in demolitions and renos. Aqua Defense or Red Guard are both decent roll-on water-resistant membranes. Cement board is NOT waterproof so do not be tempted to skip this step, even though these roll-on products are ridiculously expensive (I just paid Can$120 for a small pail of Red Guard). Apply a minimum of two coats, with at least 1 1/2 hours drying time between coats. I use PermaBASE cement board, which is terribly porous (thousands of pits) so it takes three coats to properly seal it. A real pain. I don't know if Hardibacker might be a better choice. Under ideal conditions you can start tiling just 1 1/2 hours after the final coat of membrane. Some people like mastic, because it's so convenient, but most of the builders I know use thinset mortar. It really comes down to personal choice.
GREAT VIDEO, Thanks 👍🏽
In the old days there was no drywall behind there, it was metal and mortar holding that tile up.
Oh yea experienced that renovations first hand a nightmare to remove lol
So if the original tile had just drywall behind it and there was no mold or moisture present as revealed, then why is it so necessary to put the cement board up instead of drywall again?
Using cement board will not have moisture & no mold.. drywall u run the risk..
It is said before you tile a place you shold put water on it first to moisten area. If you plan to tile a stairs that has water resistant paint on it should you still damp it?
There is no reason to moisten a water proof surface.
What if I want to tile all the way to the edge. Would I need to cut out that part of the drywall too and replace with cement board?
What are the 1/4 in shims for when place back board and how do you cover the gap and thenhow do you cover the 1/4 in shim after you place the title do you just use caulk to cover it
I respect her... Awesome job
Tip, buy Bosch or dewalt or some other impact drill,everything goes down,bit more dust though
This is such a useful video!
How long do you let the title dry? Good video
is it necessary to use membrane fabric on the seams between coats of the aquadefense waterproof membrane? I have seen it both ways.
How much would that cost?
Maybe I’m slow, but I just realize the whole purpose of this is to convince homeowners that they can do this kind of work themselves, buy a ton of materials and tools, and then have to hire a professional to fix the project when they screw up, thus selling more tools and supplies! ; )
if you have half a brain you can figure this out and not spend excess $$. its actually pretty cheap. sorry you lack skills to handle simple tasks
Maybe if you're not handy 😢
It's all possible
Can you post a link to the backer boards used?
There's literally only two types you can buy. Cement board (the one she used) and Hardie Backer (tougher to cut, but more long lasting). All next to each other at Lowes.
5:58 tip us unsanded grout, but she's using sanded. unsanded is creamy that looks and sounds grity
That's a bathtub shower. Try a shower that needs a mud pan base. How high do I need to set the backerboard to allow for the base to be mudded in? There's a lot of good information in the video; however, there needs to be a part deuce to cover a shower and not a bathtub/shower combo.
Great video. Thanks.
Why'd you have to get rid of the old tile and why did you have to get rid of the drywall? Saw ZERO water damage.
How about using a Makita hammer with a flat bit and remove tile the easy way???.
Always use a level to check framing in the wall before hanging durarock. Check for plumb and level and shim if needed. If you dont tile edges will not be even for grout. Just sayin....
So did they use the same tub or no? When remodeling do you have to replace the tub or can you use the same tub? Thanks
you can use the same tub. no need to remove it if it still works for you.
How are you supposed to do a “dry run”? I’m not working with post-it notes here
Nice video. But how to you cut these small tiles that come glued to a mesh?
Pop it off the mesh and cut it....
looking good
thanks! My neighbor slammed my walls w a led pipe, now unc and I must repair!
Look out fellows that was pretty good.
I love it looks great.
Nice information.
Where is the pipe for shower head?
I love how a woman is doing this, very inspirational
If I already have a fiberglass shower, can I simply tile over the walls?
It's not recommended to tile over fiberglass. The tiles won't adhere to fiberglass surfaces properly.
Good job
Um how much does a pro charge for this? (On average)
The replacement tile doesn'y look appealing but I guess everyone has different taste.
I was going to DIY my bathroom and put some nice tiles but this video discouraged me to do it. lol
Thank you for this video!
So cement backer board is going in place of the old drywall. I may be mistaken but wouldn’t the new tile shower wall be somewhat flimsy, even flex with enough light pressure?
The main reason cement board is used is that it is rigid. More rigid than drywall.
Why not drywall and redguard? Probably not as lucrative for Lowes?
I am not sure about being lucrative but when i will be remodeling my second bathroom it will be backerboard . I had drywall in the first one and it literally disintegrated like a powder when i took it out.I was 25 years old . No more dry wall for me in any wet area.
Have you ever seen what happens to sheetrock when it gets wet?
@@frenchustube I bet that sheetrock didn't have redguard waterproofing on it.
@@jamesmckenna1931 thats what the waterproofing membrane redguard solves
OK- do one where you are saving the (antique) tiles insead of just busting them off
*presses play on video* *start taking notes*
Notes: Pay someone to do it for you.
I like the old tile better.
that expansion gap at the bottom.. do you fill it in with grout or caulk? Or leave it as is?
Grout then caulk over it
Sanded caulk or bath caulk
should be a soft joint. meaning caulk
What is the model number of the Craftman saw used?
I’m scared I’m gonna do it wrong especially the measuring part.
Tiles are uneven at 5:52. You can see the lines are all off. Also why not just take out the drywall with the tiles attached?
Good catch. This is where a laser level would help. Uneven grout lines can really destroy the look.
That's because she didn't put her spacers at the intersections which would have kept that from happening right?
How long does this whole process take?
Depends
What kind of spacers did you use?
There's practically one kind. They are in one section at Lowe's made for tiles and you buy them depending on size.
I wouldve taken out that Lousy Pink and replaced it with IT WITH ROCKWOOL
actually, the first step is to check for ASBESTOS in the drywall before doing anything!.....houses built before mid 1980s, there is a good chance the drywall and/or joint compound has asbestos (maybe up to 20%).. you don't want to take one breath around asbestos...
How do you check for asbestos?
@@peaceofmind6141 just google asbestos in homes ....there is a mountain of info. This old house has a good section on it.
Not true. Exposure to asbestos short term is RARELY dangerous.
That just opens a can of worms for homeowners. Demolish the bathroom slowly and methodically, dampen the drywall with a spray bottle as you go, and don't use a sawzall. Here in Canada, only the drywall compound had asbestos in it, never the drywall itself. I've had a local lab check this on a recent reno, and sure enough the compound was contaminated.
I know folks are terribly afraid of asbestos, but it takes years of exposure to asbestos to cause disease. Don't push your luck, but don't be paralyzed into inaction either.
can fixed the tile on the paint?
Why left gap at the bottom ? what did you did to that gap ?
You can either caulk it or you use edge pieces.