There is subtle larger lesson in that answer. Start with the easiest, most likely to fail, and least expensive. Then move up the scale. When all of those are confirmed, pull out your wallet. Thank you both as always, have a great weekend ~ Chuck
Great video, as usual, Paul. But before taking anything apart, I would recommend that Al get himself a good multimeter and check the voltage at the starter switch and the continuity between the positive battery terminal and the engine block. Of course, that would be after I verified that other electrical items such as the ammeter, headlights, and horn worked.
Paul is so right, some folks doesn't check their battery, that should be the first check. Most of my issues have been from bad connections on my cables or bad corroded cables. Although, I have had some issues with the starters, most are a bad starter solenoid or brushes. That said, my 1963 Massey Ferguson 65 tractor has a starter that I've had rebuilt a few years ago and now it's giving me issues again. Probably the windings due to over cranking, so I guess I'll have to break down and buy a new starter for it. Thanks for the great advice, love these quick little Q&A's, I hope you two have a wonderful weekend, God Bless!
I had I fella bring in a model A that simply would not start, The bendex broke and jammed, I had to loosen the starter and take the crank and turn the engine ( it was not easy) and remove the starter, I then rebuilt the starter even replacing the brushes! Runs like a top! I also made an extra ground wire for it, the front motor springs were burnt, poor grounding somehow caused this issue, I noticed it, the engine just did not look right on the frame! I never saw this before until then! What I believe was happening was when He would try to start the car, the ground was not at all good to the engine somehow, so it took the front motor mount to be the ground wire, and it was a weak spot, so it got pretty hot! Strange indeed!
I had a problem kind of like this. I found out that inside of the Starter Switch Assembly where the rod pressed on the copper/brass plate was tarnish and would not allow it to make a good contact, when I stepped on the starter button. So, I sanded it down and all was good again.
in my garage I once ran into a similar prob on a much later model car the gentleman was pulling out his hair he had replaced the batter and cables and the starter even tho it tested good . what could it be? the eng was locked up.
Commrad Commutator continues to avoid work and brushes me off. He has no desire to turn new ground. I'll be looking for a new start soon bearing results. Meanwhile I will wire a party member to barter for better battery. I must switch things up. Good morning T! As Charles says, start with the cheap and easy stuff before you pull out your wallet! Enjoy your coffee ☕!
I encountered an issue with mine once. & you're gonna laugh. I got in the truck, hit the starter & nothing. I hit it again & nothing. I got out & was going to check the starter switch connection & noticed the starter button where it connects to the rod that is connected to the starter had come unthreaded. What was happening was, when I would push the button with my foot, the button would go down but it wasn't pushing the switch rod so nothing would happen. The rubber floor boot held the button in place so I hadn't noticed it wasn't unthreaded. I threaded it back together & jammed the nut & away I went.
Thank you for your video. A suggestion...instead of trying to explain with your hands, please show photos or drawings or video to help explain what you are talking about. Can do this and still keep the video short.
I didn't know Model A are positive ground. Thanks for the video.
Having my morning coffee and watching Model A Q&A is priceless!! Great info
There is subtle larger lesson in that answer. Start with the easiest, most likely to fail, and least expensive. Then move up the scale. When all of those are confirmed, pull out your wallet. Thank you both as always, have a great weekend ~ Chuck
Great video, as usual, Paul. But before taking anything apart, I would recommend that Al get himself a good multimeter and check the voltage at the starter switch and the continuity between the positive battery terminal and the engine block. Of course, that would be after I verified that other electrical items such as the ammeter, headlights, and horn worked.
Paul is so right, some folks doesn't check their battery, that should be the first check. Most of my issues have been from bad connections on my cables or bad corroded cables. Although, I have had some issues with the starters, most are a bad starter solenoid or brushes. That said, my 1963 Massey Ferguson 65 tractor has a starter that I've had rebuilt a few years ago and now it's giving me issues again. Probably the windings due to over cranking, so I guess I'll have to break down and buy a new starter for it. Thanks for the great advice, love these quick little Q&A's, I hope you two have a wonderful weekend, God Bless!
Great tip
great advice
Nice video .
👍
I had I fella bring in a model A that simply would not start, The bendex broke and jammed, I had to loosen the starter and take the crank and turn the engine ( it was not easy) and remove the starter, I then rebuilt the starter even replacing the brushes! Runs like a top! I also made an extra ground wire for it, the front motor springs were burnt, poor grounding somehow caused this issue, I noticed it, the engine just did not look right on the frame! I never saw this before until then! What I believe was happening was when He would try to start the car, the ground was not at all good to the engine somehow, so it took the front motor mount to be the ground wire, and it was a weak spot, so it got pretty hot! Strange indeed!
Should the battery be disconnected before messing with the starter switch?
I had a problem kind of like this. I found out that inside of the Starter Switch Assembly where the rod pressed on the copper/brass plate was tarnish and would not allow it to make a good contact, when I stepped on the starter button. So, I sanded it down and all was good again.
in my garage I once ran into a similar prob on a much later model car the gentleman was pulling out his hair he had replaced the batter and cables and the starter even tho it tested good . what could it be? the eng was locked up.
Tina hows the running going?
Bendix could be stuck in ring gear, put in 3rd gear and rock car, easyer than pulling starter.
I just made a comment on that very thing!
Commrad Commutator continues to avoid work and brushes me off. He has no desire to turn new ground. I'll be looking for a new start soon bearing results. Meanwhile I will wire a party member to barter for better battery. I must switch things up.
Good morning T! As Charles says, start with the cheap and easy stuff before you pull out your wallet! Enjoy your coffee ☕!
I encountered an issue with mine once. & you're gonna laugh. I got in the truck, hit the starter & nothing. I hit it again & nothing. I got out & was going to check the starter switch connection & noticed the starter button where it connects to the rod that is connected to the starter had come unthreaded. What was happening was, when I would push the button with my foot, the button would go down but it wasn't pushing the switch rod so nothing would happen. The rubber floor boot held the button in place so I hadn't noticed it wasn't unthreaded. I threaded it back together & jammed the nut & away I went.
Pistons are dry, your engine will not turn over, which can also make the starter to seam to not work
Thank you for your video. A suggestion...instead of trying to explain with your hands, please show photos or drawings or video to help explain what you are talking about. Can do this and still keep the video short.