VAN LIFE : SUB FLOOR & FLOOR INSULATION INSTALL 2018 SPRINTER VAN BUILD
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Hey everyone! Today I'm posting the installation of my sub floor in my 2018 Sprinter 2500. My plan was to mount a sub floor with the OEM floor bolts, and then use the 3 lowest valleys in the metal to glue 3/4" wood strips from front to back. These I used to screw the sub floor down in the middle sections. This was a bit tough but all in all it worked well. As for insulation I put a specific type of 3m thinsulate down first then a heat barrier. If I were to do all this again I'd insulate all the low points, do the 3 wood strips from front to back, then just glue 1/2" sub floor directly to the metal floor and use screws for the wood strip parts.
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Products used:
- Safecoat Polyureseal BP Gloss - amzn.to/31sSnHI
- Smartshield Radiant Barrier - amzn.to/2UptGKV
- Second Skin Damplifier Pro - amzn.to/389lWRm
- Biscuit Joiner Kit - amzn.to/2S04o4m
- Laser Level - amzn.to/2OvTHEi
- AFM Safecoat Almighty Adhesive - tinyurl.com/qo...
- Adventure Wagon Floor Insulation - tinyurl.com/w8...
This is the bomb. I thought I wouldn't be possible not to screw thru the metal floor.
You can do it!!!
Without watching this video but many MANY others this (your way) is pretty much how I decided to do it. I went with 1/2" rigid foam instead of thinsulate. I didn't add any deadening material however guessing it won't make that much difference. (Hoping) I did go with 3/4" tounge and groove plywood...it says right on it "24" O/C" so the 17" between the strips will be very solid. I glued down my 1" thick wood strips in the deep channels of the metal floor and then ripped 1/2" strips to fit all around the circumference of the outside edges. I'll screw onto the 1/2" with 1-1/4" drywall screws...at a bit of an angle. I'd thought about using the D-Ring holes like you too and I'm still at this point considering doing that...in fact this is the exact point I need to decide on that. I'm thinking it'd be nice to keep the D-Rings for tying or strapping things down with like if I decide to bring a motorcycle or something like that. I'd like to design my bed so that it can be easily removed in case I need to haul something like a Harley Davidson. So my idea is to keep the appropriate D-Rings intact (w/ longer bolts and router out around them so they fit flush with the floor. (I'd build a jig for routering.) Still not sure how to go about all that. I think maybe I'm wasting my time because its all going to be covered up with cabinets etc and wont be accessible and with wiring and plumbing heating etc wont be removable. Anyway...liked your video and subscribed today. I'd considered using biscuits but then decided instead on toung and groove.
Sounds like a great plan! How'd it turn out?
I've been watching van builds for months now, I was wondering when I would finally see someone use biscuits joinery on the sub floor!! The floor is going to support a lot of weight and have a lot of movement from driving and people walking on it, that joint needs to be very strong and I was thinking Biscuits would be the best way to do it.
Plus, I've also been amazed that a lot of "PRO" van builders put the plywood seam right down the middle of the van from front to back. That has to be the worst area for a seam with most of your weight being on the sides of the van and your seam in the middle? Anyways, great job and when I do my build (hopefully this summer) I'm definitely using biscuits!!
I agree completely. If I were to do this again, I'd make sure to use 1/2" ply with tongue and groove or route my own tongue and groove on 1/2". Glue lonseal on and call it day. I was warned multiple times to go this route and ignored it.
@@osirisvans8391 I just did my floor and I used biscuits, miter bolts and wood glue, then I bolted it to the floor with tee bolts, it's totally solid! I used 3/4 marine grad grade plywood.
@@bjbhehir Awesome I think that was a really good choice.
Buen vídeo 👌 gracias.
for how you would do it again (gluing the ply directly to the metal): do you believe the .5" gap below the ply would allow for enough air flow? I was under the impression that you wanted a bit of a space between the metal and subfloor to prevent mold/rust over the long run?
How did you connect the wood to the floor? I didnt see it, wondering how can you screw them, or the floor will have holes 😗
Well done ❤
What is the purpose of the adhesive tape in the low groves?
Great vid!! Love how to the point it is without any talking or waffling. Also love the neat biscuits joints, so satisfying! I'm thinking of using my plywood subfloor as my final finish for the floor? Obviously treating the plywood to be water resistant (im thinking of painting it and do some funky stencil pattern) and fill the seams but wanted you opinion on this? Ive not seen it done and wonder if there is a reason for that or actually it would work totally fine. Ive seen van lifers only put top flooring on the living space areas so guessed it would be similar idea to that concept. Would love your feedback.. cheers 😁🚐
Hi Beth, I would not do treated raw ply. All the subfloor pieces must "click" together, with either tounge and groove cuts or biscuits. Otherwise the floor ends where they but against eachother will bend naturally. If I did this over: I'd do 1/2" subfloor ply with tounge and groove in them. For finishing the floor I'd do nothing other than aircraft grade lonseal. Use lonseal epoxy. Anything else will contract and expand and create problems later on. .
I love the video. Thank you. I've seen a bunch and I will take more tips from your method than just about any other video. Quick question, I love the song that plays over the first minute or two of the video, but can't find it anywhere. Can you tell me who makes it and the name of it? Thanks so much! Namaste
Mayten - grief (wave music)
You'd use 1/2 if you were to do it again.. Anything wrong with the 3/4 ply? I just got done cutting out my 3/4 marine ply 🙂 Using biscuits as well
3/4" ply works great! Even has benefits beyond 1/2". However when using 1/4" flooring and paired with 3/4 ply it added height I didn't want and also called for me trimming oem columns to fit correctly. Also made the section from front to back taller than I'd like and also made the step up larger than I would have liked. Tomato.. Tomaaato. 1/2" next time paired with loncoin...
Ah OK understand good to go. Appreciate the reply! Just waiting on my lonseal now I joined em all up already and sealed em after that. Was going to use what you used(3mthinsulate) but decided on 1/4in foam. It was at our local store so.. Thanks for the video!
Are you happy with the Thinsulate and Reflectix as your floor insulation. How is with rattles and sounds and cooling and heating?
I'm extremely happy with it. I think its one of the better ways to go. No noise at all. Floor still gets cold on cold nights "a van is van". The only thing I would have changed was going to .5" ply for the subfloor.
@@osirisvans8391 Thanks!
@@osirisvans8391 1/2 ply? How would you secure it at the butt joints? Will your biscuits work for that? Why 1/2" I've seen 1/2" get kinda flimsy. Could you tell why 1/2"?
I probably would have made my own 1/2" tongue and groove.
Great video and I think your method for the floor is the best I have seen. Question about the On 3/4 wood strips you glued down to the metal floor to screw down the plywood: When I put down the 3/4 strip I am seeing that it is slightly higher compared to the highest parts of the metal floor. It is not much but did this cause any issues? I hope what I am asking makes sense?
hmm.. I remember throwing a level down and checking most of the 3 long strips. There might have been a mm difference or so. I have not noticed any issues.
To be clear the 3 you did 3 3/4" strips on the lowest 3 sections in the floor? Maybe they're a little to wide and made "some" pop on one side?
@@osirisvans8391 I got it figured out. Thanks for getting back to me and thanks for sharing your process on doing the subfloor. I followed your lead and it worked out great. Thanks so much.
@@aubie8283 Awesome! Glad to hear.
@@aubie8283 Great to hear!
2:40...'3M Thinsulate...designed to be compressed yet still maintin (sic) its thermal properties.' 3M will tell you that is absurd.
Fantastic. Come down and do mine. 🦘
XD