Thanks for watching my video. If you found this or any of my other videos helpful, maybe you could consider supporting my channel by using the ‘Thanks’ button below each of my videos. Your support would be really appreciated, thank you ! 👍 Screwsnutsandbolts
Thanks for making such a high quality video demonstrating the value of the tool. One thing though, I am not sure if the torque is correctly set for tightening. This tool, while it is very good, has an offset from where the torque is actually applied to the rod. This would make getting the right torque problematic.
It seems like your tie rod still "good", any reason replacing it? I have some clunking noise and I am trying to determine the source of the noise, I found out the swig bar links and the outer tie rod's rubber cover is broken and it may be the cause. Normally would people also change inner tie rod when they replace the outer ? Thanks so much for the video. 👍
You're welcome. I was really just demonstrating the removal tool in the video. Usually if you're changing an inner tie rod it's recommended that you also change the outer one, as you have to remove it to access the inner one anyway, unless the outer one had only recently been renewed as is in good condition. Is the clunking there all the time or when you hit bumps, or turn the wheel full lock either left or right ?
@@screwsnutsandbolts Most likely is the outer tie rod since it is original since 2009 and with 190k miles. My dilemma is should I change the inner (outer is pretty simple for my DIYer) I think if there is "play" on the inner and also it is not tight or have knock sound and cannot hold the the rod, then I may attempt to change the inner I kind of like the OEM rather than replace with third party parts if there still life left. Thanks for your information and get back to me so quickly.
Thanks for watching my video. If you found this or any of my other videos helpful, maybe you could consider supporting my channel by using the ‘Thanks’ button below each of my videos. Your support would be really appreciated, thank you ! 👍
Screwsnutsandbolts
Thanks for making such a high quality video demonstrating the value of the tool. One thing though, I am not sure if the torque is correctly set for tightening. This tool, while it is very good, has an offset from where the torque is actually applied to the rod. This would make getting the right torque problematic.
That was beautiful.
Thank you !
Thanks !
You're welcome !
Thank mate!
You're welcome !
Hi there , i got question how long size your extension ? Cause i saw u join 2 extension , thanks if u read my question 🥳
With the two joined the extension was 500mm (20 inches)
Very good
Thanks
It seems like your tie rod still "good", any reason replacing it? I have some clunking noise and I am trying to determine the source of the noise, I found out the swig bar links and the outer tie rod's rubber cover is broken and it may be the cause. Normally would people also change inner tie rod when they replace the outer ?
Thanks so much for the video. 👍
You're welcome. I was really just demonstrating the removal tool in the video. Usually if you're changing an inner tie rod it's recommended that you also change the outer one, as you have to remove it to access the inner one anyway, unless the outer one had only recently been renewed as is in good condition. Is the clunking there all the time or when you hit bumps, or turn the wheel full lock either left or right ?
@@screwsnutsandbolts Most likely is the outer tie rod since it is original since 2009 and with 190k miles. My dilemma is should I change the inner (outer is pretty simple for my DIYer) I think if there is "play" on the inner and also it is not tight or have knock sound and cannot hold the the rod, then I may attempt to change the inner I kind of like the OEM rather than replace with third party parts if there still life left. Thanks for your information and get back to me so quickly.
You're welcome, good luck !