I find doing the alignment can change chain tension, so I always recheck chain tension after aligning. It can also slightly change after tightening the axle, so a final check is good too. Nice video mate.
I have a 2014 Ninja 300 and you can't rely on the alignment marks on the swing arm (the service manual states this). Use a straightedge to make sure the front and rear sprockets/chain are aligned with each other. I always adjust the slack first and then align the sprockets/chain which aligns the rear wheel.
0:48 I can't believe that squirrel threw that leaf at your face and tried to interrupt you while you were talking. But you took it like a champ and kept moving. Good video.
The service manual tells you to do adjust the chain while it’s on the kickstand and I have found out that it is actually very important to follow that rule .. I adjusted my chain on a stand just like you did and it was different when I took it off the stand just heads up
@@irvingarcia7880 good question man I have no idea lol the service manual does not specify all it says is to be sure that the tick marks are set to the same mark on both sides ! This was such an issue for me man that I took my bike in to finish the work I had mostly finished
If your having trouble and it's still loose, it might be a good idea to check the slack after rolling the rear wheel back all the way or towards the middle. Once you roll forward it'll naturally tighten the slack.
Excellent video, thank you. Should the “final” chain slack be checked with the rear wheel on the ground using kick stand? Not sure if the bike load affects slack/tension.
I searched this video purely because I'm having difficulty aligning the wheel since the notched plate on the right has wiggle. I didn't expect you to answer my problem but you did! But can you please let me know how you know the little plate should be full forward before assessing the notches?
The way I figured you could either have both all the forward, back or guess what the middle was on both. I didnt like guessing, and by having the plate forward instead of back, when I tightened the wheel the plate would stay all the way forward. If it was all the way back. It could potentially shift forward with the movement. So to me forward was constant on both sides and didnt shift during tightening. Seemed like the best call
Man I guess I don't have the tools yet to adjust my drive chain slack. I just tried it and I not only cracked the chain adjuster caps but I couldn't loosen the axle nut and even if I did I wouldn't get the torque settings right. When I gave up and stopped before I did too much damage I also noticed that my cotter pin was a tad smaller that the factory one. I just ordered new chain adjuster caps and the correct cotter pins for the bike including a swing arm stand.. My work has all the necessary tools for the bike so i'll wait for that.
Good video, including the instructions on how to use torque wrench. I also like the moment with on-screen caption and graphics, you could use more of it in moments when you turn away from camera and are difficult to hear with all the crickets making their noise.
thanks for the video can you please explain to me how to get the ride side of the bikes alignment mark to move , the left side is a lil bit higher than the right side is this bad?
I would push both all the way forward yes. If one is all the way back, and the other all the way forward, that could throw off your alignment. I found it easiest to keep both pushed all the way forward
@@XxS1l3nTxa1Mx I believe they are more track oriented. But they are awesome for the road too. Still have long life, but the grip is stupid. When I first road my bike with them on I actually thought the dealership had bent my handlebars the grip was so much better. I know that analogy sounds almost bad, but it was incredible when I realized how firmly I felt I was planted to the road in the corners.
+gundamfanatic sorry for the mix up, towards and backwards, the chain would tighten up and then loosen, I just sold my ninja 300 not to long ago, but thanks for the reply
I liked pushing the wheel all the way forward (and tightening to match on both sides) because I knew I was starting at the same point of tightness on each side of the swingarm.
+MADdaDJ yea I had that problem a lot with my 300. I think when I swapped my front sprocket out I stretched a portion of my chain, causing it to be uneven.
.8 - 1.2 inches of slack was what I was aiming for. I guess if you want to get a ruler and measure 1 inch of travel that would be a good idea in case your visual estimate is way off.
I find doing the alignment can change chain tension, so I always recheck chain tension after aligning. It can also slightly change after tightening the axle, so a final check is good too. Nice video mate.
Thank you so much for the video. Even a rookie like me can actually do this and feel good about doing the job right.
Thank you. I bought my first ninja 300 and you sir have saved me a head ache.
I have a 2014 Ninja 300 and you can't rely on the alignment marks on the swing arm (the service manual states this). Use a straightedge to make sure the front and rear sprockets/chain are aligned with each other. I always adjust the slack first and then align the sprockets/chain which aligns the rear wheel.
Oh ok
0:48 I can't believe that squirrel threw that leaf at your face and tried to interrupt you while you were talking.
But you took it like a champ and kept moving.
Good video.
Thanks for posting this 9 years ago. Very helpful!
thanks a ton for the vid man, even including the recommended torque setting is one less thing I need to look up!
The service manual tells you to do adjust the chain while it’s on the kickstand and I have found out that it is actually very important to follow that rule .. I adjusted my chain on a stand just like you did and it was different when I took it off the stand just heads up
Alright so no wheel stand, does that apply for the alignment? Kinda a dumb question
@@irvingarcia7880 good question man I have no idea lol the service manual does not specify all it says is to be sure that the tick marks are set to the same mark on both sides ! This was such an issue for me man that I took my bike in to finish the work I had mostly finished
If your having trouble and it's still loose, it might be a good idea to check the slack after rolling the rear wheel back all the way or towards the middle. Once you roll forward it'll naturally tighten the slack.
Thanks for the video man. It was really helpful. Very informative.
You made an easy task look so difficult. Back to bike school for you.
Thank you so much my guy I could finally use my bike now
for your torque wrench. harbor freight has them for around $30 (to own). they work great too.
+Richard Wagner yea I've seen those, but my local autozone had them for "rent" for free! So anytime I need to do this I go rent one.
nice video how do you rent for free lol
Awesome breakdown, thanks. Going to adjust my gf's 300 chain now :D
Hey good job man thanks I gotta adjust my chain its pretty horrid right now this helped me a lot!!!
Excellent video, thank you. Should the “final” chain slack be checked with the rear wheel on the ground using kick stand? Not sure if the bike load affects slack/tension.
great video. but I think its better to count the threads at the end of the tensioners, gives an exact match.
I searched this video purely because I'm having difficulty aligning the wheel since the notched plate on the right has wiggle.
I didn't expect you to answer my problem but you did! But can you please let me know how you know the little plate should be full forward before assessing the notches?
The way I figured you could either have both all the forward, back or guess what the middle was on both. I didnt like guessing, and by having the plate forward instead of back, when I tightened the wheel the plate would stay all the way forward. If it was all the way back. It could potentially shift forward with the movement. So to me forward was constant on both sides and didnt shift during tightening. Seemed like the best call
Thanks a butt load bro! I'm going to do it on my 300 next time.
Man I guess I don't have the tools yet to adjust my drive chain slack. I just tried it and I not only cracked the chain adjuster caps but I couldn't loosen the axle nut and even if I did I wouldn't get the torque settings right. When I gave up and stopped before I did too much damage I also noticed that my cotter pin was a tad smaller that the factory one.
I just ordered new chain adjuster caps and the correct cotter pins for the bike including a swing arm stand.. My work has all the necessary tools for the bike so i'll wait for that.
So
+KiwiRides Dang how'd you manage to crack the adjuster caps?
Excellent video
Great video, more informative than most, I appreciate it, helped me a lot.
Good video, including the instructions on how to use torque wrench. I also like the moment with on-screen caption and graphics, you could use more of it in moments when you turn away from camera and are difficult to hear with all the crickets making their noise.
you seem to enjoy your bike it looks stock new
thanks for the video can you please explain to me how to get the ride side of the bikes alignment mark to move , the left side is a lil bit higher than the right side is this bad?
hi,,where did bought your frame slider?
Thanks great video. The plate with the mark indicator on the left side also slides (slightly) so does it have to be pushed all the way forward too?
I would push both all the way forward yes. If one is all the way back, and the other all the way forward, that could throw off your alignment. I found it easiest to keep both pushed all the way forward
thanks mate read the manual
watched how its done
very helpfull
You never showed how you measure it lol. The chain. Also how much Force am I suppose to add to check slack
Nice video, wondering if you still have it or upgraded to what?
NoShadowOfDoubt1 Still got it. At 11,000 miles now. Recently put Michelin Pilot street radial tires on. Make a world of difference.
gundamfanatic are those tires any good? Are they made for the road or race track
@@XxS1l3nTxa1Mx I believe they are more track oriented. But they are awesome for the road too. Still have long life, but the grip is stupid. When I first road my bike with them on I actually thought the dealership had bent my handlebars the grip was so much better. I know that analogy sounds almost bad, but it was incredible when I realized how firmly I felt I was planted to the road in the corners.
I need to do this. Hope I don't screw up ):.
Very good! Thanks
After adjustments the chain now tightens and loosens while I move the bike back and front
+Call Me PIPER "when you move the bike back and front" what does that mean?
+gundamfanatic sorry for the mix up, towards and backwards, the chain would tighten up and then loosen, I just sold my ninja 300 not to long ago, but thanks for the reply
why did you push the wheel forward?
I liked pushing the wheel all the way forward (and tightening to match on both sides) because I knew I was starting at the same point of tightness on each side of the swingarm.
"visibly see" LOL
thank u so much bro!
the other side isn't required to torque?
No only one side has the nut to tighten.
Thank you!
Thank you
Thanx man
My chain slaps around and keeps getting loose!
+MADdaDJ yea I had that problem a lot with my 300. I think when I swapped my front sprocket out I stretched a portion of my chain, causing it to be uneven.
your momma
he says don't go past when you hear the torque wrench click but I am pretty damn sure he went past the clicks, sounds like a contradiction
it doesn't matter how many clicks, the clicks are from it not allowing any more tension.
Still loose as shit man wtf?
Then keep tightening it noob. You don't tighten the same amount he did, you tighten yours the same way but more or less for your situation.
.8 - 1.2 inches of slack was what I was aiming for. I guess if you want to get a ruler and measure 1 inch of travel that would be a good idea in case your visual estimate is way off.
looked perfect to me