I am with you buddy. I bought some used gear and some cheap speakers with DIY subs for my theater and ended up at about $6k in gear for a 7.3.4 system with a 150" scope screen. A lot of people drop at least triple that on a basic theater this size, but I really think that mine looks and sounds amazing. There is a steep cutoff where you get Into diminishing returns in audio. If you have a lot of money, then go for it, but it bugs me when someone gets into a forum and thinks they need to drop $50k minimum for a theater. Thanks for the perspective!
3:00 ... the "spring" sound you're hearing is the PCB inside. It's held in two grooves on the sides of the case and it can vibrate a bit, which is harmless. 3:45 ... The 300 watt per channel claim is taken from the TPA3255 chip specs. It is the absolute maximum rating. You might, under laboratory conditions, get a burst of 300 watts per channel .... *once* As configured (stereo BTL) it is *not* 2 ohm stable. On my test bench, with the basic supply brick, it measures in at 55 watts RMS per channel with 0.1% distortion on 8 ohms and about 105 w/ch on 4 ohms. On the optional 48 volt supply it produces about 110 w/ch on 8 and 200 on 4.
Been using the Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 Class D Bluetooth Amplifier with Sub Frequency Adjustment. As Joe N Tell said in his review, it's just missing a remote, for $90.
Now for the bad news ... I bought several of these around Christmas to use in Soundbar Killer systems ... Optical DAC, TB10D, Dayton T652 (heavily modified) or Pioneer FS52 speakers, hooked up to a stereo TV set. Both systems will blow your mind on a good TV set or PC... excellent sound. BUT ... in June I got a call from a client concerning warmth on the amplifier casing when it was turned off. That's not good... so I grabbed one, put it on my test bench and went over it with a fine tooth comb. It's got problems. This relates to the "upgraded version" widely advertised on multiple online vendors... First ... the on/off switch on the front is not a true power switch. Instead it is intended to put the amplifier into a deep standby state, where the bulk capacitors stay charged but the amp chip itself is in a "reset" condition (which is a good thing). Unfortunately, this does not work properly in the TB10D. In the off state the "~reset" pin of the chip is left floating and the amplifier can (and does) turn itself back on after a couple of minutes and you can actually play music through it with the front panel switch in the Off position. This however does not account for all of the warmth on the case... Second ... If you look at the board out of the case, you will see that the 4 output coils are right against the back of the big heatsink for the main chip. (which is not a good thing) They are, actually, close enough to couple with the heatsink and cause inductive heating. And of course this also detunes the output filters and causes some sound quality problems in the final output of the amplifier. Modifying the heat sink to give more clearance between it and the coils solved this problem very nicely. Of course I've reported all of this to Fosi ... they were most grateful for my information but it remains to be seen what, if anything, they're going to do about it. To be clear... neither of these needs to be a deal breaker. It is a good amplifier... but with the mods installed it becomes a better good amplifier. Hope this is helpful.
@@JilesMcCoy You're welcome. When plugged in with the brick powered and the amplifier's power switch Off, the case of the amplifier should be cool to touch ... room temperature. When on and idling you should notice only very slight warmth on the top of the case. Maybe 1 or 2 degrees above room temperature, depending on airflow around the case. Keep in mind, this is not a defective part problem. These are actual design errors.
@@JilesMcCoy So power brick light on... amp turned off... room temperature... That's good to hear. This is one case where I really want to be wrong. But, unfortunately, all the ones I've used in my Soundbar Killers have shown the same symptoms and guess who gets to fix or replace them free of charge... ☹
Olá amigo! Esse Fosi tem baixa latência no bluetooth? Quero usar para tocar um piano virtual a partir do iPad. Você acredita que a conexão iPad - Fosi funcionaria com pouco delay? Muito obrigado
There isn't any digital tech in the TB10D so it should have the same near 0 latency as other amps. The electrical will be moving close to the speed of light.
Spent 600 on my bedroom system. Tb10d, Klipsch rf200s and a 1mii ds200 blutooth receiver/dac that I think sounds great. There's something about the tb10d I can't put my finger on, but I love the sound.
Do you need a DAC if the output is already analog? What kind of DAC? I have the amp and Im planning to purchase Micca OoO or RB42 speakers. My budget is lower than 600
The Aiyima T9 has Dac+Remote($120) + Emotiva B2+/Airmotiv T1+/Klipsch RP600M MK1/2($350/$500) + Wiim mini($90) + Monolith speaker stands ($120) = Magic for around ($680/$830) for a room that is around 12/14 X 14/16 feet or smaller.
hey i dabbled into this hifi space in search for a budget amp for my KEF Q150, but finding something with a remote is oddly difficult (i need one). i looked up the aiyima t9. it has no remote? am i missing something?
Could i use this with the 32 v powersupply for my polk xt60 tallspeakers ? Or would i have to use the 48v for more power , ive got a denon 3800h at 7.1 im just wanting to relieve some power off it by using this small amp for my 2 front speakers
Finally Jiles ... with apologies for dive bombing your comments... It is absolutely true that excellent systems can now be put together for way way way less than "audiophile" gear. It is a bit of snobbery to get all wrapped up in multi-thousand dollar this or that. The subjective reviewer risks becoming a corporate shill for wildly overpriced gear. Congrats on seeing behind the curtain.
Can I use it with 60watt speaker with heavy magnet around its woofer, I mean my speakers are heavy. I was wondering if these new generation amps can play them like conventional old school of 90's. I forgot to mention, my speakers are 3 way and people use these amps with 2 way shelf type speakers.
Jiles, I hooked up my turntable to this FOSI power amp but the volume from my speakers is very low. What do I do to increase the speaker volume? I am using expensive 3-way Technics speakers and Technics turntable. Any help would be appreciated.
I have nothing against high priced gear. If I could afford it, I would but them. I have a problem with the elitist view that you can't get "audiophile" sound with out spending a boat load of cash. I know none of my gear, except for a Thorens turntable set up years ago, is even mid level. But I have thoroughly enjoyed all the music over the years. Are you doing this for the music, or for the gear?
theyre 2 different things imo, 'elite' suggestions usually for those who aim for best sound, while 'enjoying music' usually looking for best bang for buck
I set up a desktop system with a Fossi Audio BT 10a a Aiyima D2 DAC powering a pair of Sony SSCS5 bookshelf speakers and the sound is much better than you would believe.
I am with you buddy. I bought some used gear and some cheap speakers with DIY subs for my theater and ended up at about $6k in gear for a 7.3.4 system with a 150" scope screen. A lot of people drop at least triple that on a basic theater this size, but I really think that mine looks and sounds amazing. There is a steep cutoff where you get Into diminishing returns in audio. If you have a lot of money, then go for it, but it bugs me when someone gets into a forum and thinks they need to drop $50k minimum for a theater. Thanks for the perspective!
There is a place for everything, but an amazing system can be had very reasonably.
3:00 ... the "spring" sound you're hearing is the PCB inside. It's held in two grooves on the sides of the case and it can vibrate a bit, which is harmless.
3:45 ... The 300 watt per channel claim is taken from the TPA3255 chip specs. It is the absolute maximum rating. You might, under laboratory conditions, get a burst of 300 watts per channel .... *once*
As configured (stereo BTL) it is *not* 2 ohm stable.
On my test bench, with the basic supply brick, it measures in at 55 watts RMS per channel with 0.1% distortion on 8 ohms and about 105 w/ch on 4 ohms. On the optional 48 volt supply it produces about 110 w/ch on 8 and 200 on 4.
Thanks!
Been using the Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 Class D Bluetooth Amplifier with Sub Frequency Adjustment.
As Joe N Tell said in his review, it's just missing a remote, for $90.
Good stuff!!!
Now for the bad news ...
I bought several of these around Christmas to use in Soundbar Killer systems ... Optical DAC, TB10D, Dayton T652 (heavily modified) or Pioneer FS52 speakers, hooked up to a stereo TV set. Both systems will blow your mind on a good TV set or PC... excellent sound.
BUT ... in June I got a call from a client concerning warmth on the amplifier casing when it was turned off. That's not good... so I grabbed one, put it on my test bench and went over it with a fine tooth comb. It's got problems.
This relates to the "upgraded version" widely advertised on multiple online vendors...
First ... the on/off switch on the front is not a true power switch. Instead it is intended to put the amplifier into a deep standby state, where the bulk capacitors stay charged but the amp chip itself is in a "reset" condition (which is a good thing). Unfortunately, this does not work properly in the TB10D. In the off state the "~reset" pin of the chip is left floating and the amplifier can (and does) turn itself back on after a couple of minutes and you can actually play music through it with the front panel switch in the Off position.
This however does not account for all of the warmth on the case...
Second ... If you look at the board out of the case, you will see that the 4 output coils are right against the back of the big heatsink for the main chip. (which is not a good thing) They are, actually, close enough to couple with the heatsink and cause inductive heating. And of course this also detunes the output filters and causes some sound quality problems in the final output of the amplifier. Modifying the heat sink to give more clearance between it and the coils solved this problem very nicely.
Of course I've reported all of this to Fosi ... they were most grateful for my information but it remains to be seen what, if anything, they're going to do about it.
To be clear... neither of these needs to be a deal breaker. It is a good amplifier... but with the mods installed it becomes a better good amplifier.
Hope this is helpful.
Thanks for the details. So far I’ve not noticed any excessive heat and I’ve had the unit plugged in for a couple of weeks straight. Fingers crossed.
@@JilesMcCoy
You're welcome.
When plugged in with the brick powered and the amplifier's power switch Off, the case of the amplifier should be cool to touch ... room temperature.
When on and idling you should notice only very slight warmth on the top of the case. Maybe 1 or 2 degrees above room temperature, depending on airflow around the case.
Keep in mind, this is not a defective part problem. These are actual design errors.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 correct, when plugged in and powered off it is cool to the touch.
@@JilesMcCoy
So power brick light on... amp turned off... room temperature...
That's good to hear.
This is one case where I really want to be wrong. But, unfortunately, all the ones I've used in my Soundbar Killers have shown the same symptoms and guess who gets to fix or replace them free of charge... ☹
Olá amigo! Esse Fosi tem baixa latência no bluetooth? Quero usar para tocar um piano virtual a partir do iPad. Você acredita que a conexão iPad - Fosi funcionaria com pouco delay? Muito obrigado
There isn't any digital tech in the TB10D so it should have the same near 0 latency as other amps. The electrical will be moving close to the speed of light.
Spent 600 on my bedroom system. Tb10d, Klipsch rf200s and a 1mii ds200 blutooth receiver/dac that I think sounds great. There's something about the tb10d I can't put my finger on, but I love the sound.
That’s awesome! Thanks for watching!
Do you need a DAC if the output is already analog? What kind of DAC? I have the amp and Im planning to purchase Micca OoO or RB42 speakers. My budget is lower than 600
@@hipidipi20157max if you have analog you don’t need an additional DAC. What is your source device?
@@JilesMcCoy Thanks for reply. I would like to use an old Sony Discman for my CDs, and sometimes my new Oppo android phone for some FLAC files
The Aiyima T9 has Dac+Remote($120) + Emotiva B2+/Airmotiv T1+/Klipsch RP600M MK1/2($350/$500) + Wiim mini($90) + Monolith speaker stands ($120) = Magic for around ($680/$830) for a room that is around 12/14 X 14/16 feet or smaller.
There are amazing systems out there for a great price!
hey i dabbled into this hifi space in search for a budget amp for my KEF Q150, but finding something with a remote is oddly difficult (i need one). i looked up the aiyima t9. it has no remote? am i missing something?
@@AtmasOne The 2 T9s i bought from Amazon a year ago have remotes! Only buy from Amazon with the 30 day return!
Usually you find remotes with dedicated preamps@@AtmasOne For example, I used this amp with a Topping Pre amp. Works like a pro and has a remote.
Could i use this with the 32 v powersupply for my polk xt60 tallspeakers ? Or would i have to use the 48v for more power , ive got a denon 3800h at 7.1 im just wanting to relieve some power off it by using this small amp for my 2 front speakers
I dont have a good answer for that. Not sure about the polk power supply.
Finally Jiles ... with apologies for dive bombing your comments...
It is absolutely true that excellent systems can now be put together for way way way less than "audiophile" gear. It is a bit of snobbery to get all wrapped up in multi-thousand dollar this or that. The subjective reviewer risks becoming a corporate shill for wildly overpriced gear.
Congrats on seeing behind the curtain.
No worries!
Can I use it with 60watt speaker with heavy magnet around its woofer, I mean my speakers are heavy. I was wondering if these new generation amps can play them like conventional old school of 90's. I forgot to mention, my speakers are 3 way and people use these amps with 2 way shelf type speakers.
You can.
I plan to use it with Miccas OoO or RB42, but not sure which would be better choice.
depends on how loud ya need to go. how far away you’ll be. and size of room.
Jiles mckoy i have sennheiser hd569 will this be good amp for them or overpowering?
Its not a headphone amp.
Jiles, I hooked up my turntable to this FOSI power amp but the volume from my speakers is very low. What do I do to increase the speaker volume? I am using expensive 3-way Technics speakers and Technics turntable. Any help would be appreciated.
Does the turntable have a built in phono stage?
@@JilesMcCoy No built in phono stage nor a preamp. Perhaps I require a preamp to connect to my FOSI power amp.
@@vicmurai1033 Yes, you will need a phono stage for sure if the player doesn’t have an integrated.
@@JilesMcCoy Thanks very much for your assistance. Have a great day.
Just bought this amp for 70 Euros from Amazon this week. I'm blown away by the sound quality! Much better than my bulky old NAD Amplifier 🙂
Crazy right?
I have nothing against high priced gear. If I could afford it, I would but them. I have a problem with the elitist view that you can't get "audiophile" sound with out spending a boat load of cash. I know none of my gear, except for a Thorens turntable set up years ago, is even mid level. But I have thoroughly enjoyed all the music over the years. Are you doing this for the music, or for the gear?
Exactly!
theyre 2 different things imo, 'elite' suggestions usually for those who aim for best sound, while 'enjoying music' usually looking for best bang for buck
Now i am confused V3 of 10D ?
No v3 that I know of.
This one is the v2 ? ( updated version of this amp ? )
The one that is available now.
Fosi has been shipping the "upgraded version" since early November of 2022.
The first version is no longer sold.
Amazing ✔️
Thanks 🔥
I set up a desktop system with a Fossi Audio BT 10a a Aiyima D2 DAC powering a pair of Sony SSCS5 bookshelf speakers and the sound is much better than you would believe.
I bet!