Look up Brummel Splice. The bury isn't what locks the line - it is the double pass of the two ends which has been completely omitted here. The bury just keeps the tag end enclosed. What is shown here is weak and prone to slip. A Brummel splice cannot and will not slip under any circumstance.
The original Brummell went through the line twice then buried with a taper. It was good but not great. The modified or “Locked” Brummell is what most people talk about. If you do only do a bury it MUST be lock stitched.
Hi , great video.I’m looking at splicing a new thimble on my 10mm dyneema rope so use a smaller clevis hook to suit my boats towing eye.What sort of loads can be safely pulled with this splice?
Are those Samson thimbles not still considered "open"? Even if strong enough, wouldn't continuing the trough through to the front mitigate bend potential? Clearly the only reason they'd manufacture them that way is to save a few bucks, correct?
Yes, the Selma fids are best for 12 strand hollow braid but you should still ALWAYS do a 1 fid taper. Otherwise it will seriously reduce your strength.
I splice Tech 12 a LOT and always side small KS-2 Kevlar scissors as they have micro teeth that keep the line going back towards the cut. They have them on Amazon - Miller KS-2 Fiber Optic Kevlar Scissors
@@andresedmach3903 It's super easy to tie a locking brummel. But the knot here is not that! It can simply slip and fail. There are reasons to not tie a locking brummel - like aesthetics - but a tow rope is certainly not one of them.
This video should be titled "How NOT to do a Dyneema eye splice". There should be a locked brummel, the taper should be more gradual (cut like you did but do it strand-by-strand until you've cut 11 strands) and the bury should be much longer (ideally, 72x rope diameter).
That’s not exactly true. A 3 1/2 fid bury with a 1 fid taper will hold 90% of the rated breaking strength BUT could slip out when it isn’t under load which is the reason that it MUST be lock stitched. Yes, I always use a modified or “Locked” Brummell which doesn’t require the lock stitch but both methods hod a similar load.
If you dont taper you will create a point of failure where it ends inside. But this Video is not a good tutorial for eyesplices that really need to hold something. This eye will slip out over time if under varying loads
@@maltehundertmark912 well… to be fair this type of bury will hold fine as long as it is 3 1/2 fids long with a 1 fid taper and MUST be lock stitched for a 90% capacity.
I might have been tempted to pass the tail thru the rope a couple of times before buring the tail in the rope even though a Brummel lock can't be done on one end. Lock stitching is not a bad idea as well but in the case of your eye splice, it is critical. Good video. There are allot of scissors out there that will cut UHMD fibers well, look for Kevlar scissors.
What you’re describing is the original Brummell splice. The other one that most use now is the modified or “Locked” Brummell splice which doesn’t require lock stitching.
I splice Tech 12 a LOT and always side small KS-2 Kevlar scissors as they have micro teeth that keep the line going back towards the cut. They have them on Amazon - Miller KS-2 Fiber Optic Kevlar Scissors
In this video he uses SAMSON Splicing FIDS. They are made of soft aluminum and are relatively thick. Recommendation: Use SELMA-Splicing FIDS. They are made of thinner, polished stainless steel. They work better, promise!
To be fair, the main thing wrong is that these buries MUST be lock stitched. With a 3 1/2 Fid bury and a 1 fid taper, these splices will hold 90% of the original breaking strength. Yes, I always use a locked Brummell but that’s mainly because I don’t like lock stitching. I know the taper is not technically correct but pretty close.
Look up Brummel Splice. The bury isn't what locks the line - it is the double pass of the two ends which has been completely omitted here. The bury just keeps the tag end enclosed. What is shown here is weak and prone to slip. A Brummel splice cannot and will not slip under any circumstance.
Agree. I would use a Brummel splice too.
@@marinoldus +1 no way would I trust a winch rope with only a buried loop its vids like this that get people in a serious mess !!!
+1 agree, this is not a very good way to splice a loop that will be loaded.
I was shocked when I saw that man just went straight into burring the other end
The original Brummell went through the line twice then buried with a taper. It was good but not great. The modified or “Locked” Brummell is what most people talk about. If you do only do a bury it MUST be lock stitched.
Why would you taper the line first? I would think you finish the splice first.
Hi , great video.I’m looking at splicing a new thimble on my 10mm dyneema rope so use a smaller clevis hook to suit my boats towing eye.What sort of loads can be safely pulled with this splice?
i just removed the thimble off of my Warn synthetic rope and have the loop....Is that okay?
Are those Samson thimbles not still considered "open"? Even if strong enough, wouldn't continuing the trough through to the front mitigate bend potential? Clearly the only reason they'd manufacture them that way is to save a few bucks, correct?
I've been doing a lot of work with Dyneema line. your method seems simple, but it's very stable and excellent.
no, its not! pls look up Brummel Splice...
Only because I like using it, check out the Selma stainless fids. Don't have to taper (though good idea) or tape the rope to get it into the fid
Yes, the Selma fids are best for 12 strand hollow braid but you should still ALWAYS do a 1 fid taper. Otherwise it will seriously reduce your strength.
where can i find those needles with what name can i look for them please
What scissors are you using? You mentioned that they work great but not what there are or where someone might get a pair. Thanks,
I splice Tech 12 a LOT and always side small KS-2 Kevlar scissors as they have micro teeth that keep the line going back towards the cut. They have them on Amazon - Miller KS-2 Fiber Optic Kevlar Scissors
I do not have a fid! What can I use instead?
Knitting needs can be used as a cheap Fid.
Some also use Bic pens with the ink barrel pulled out. The best are Selma fids, however.
Some also use Bic pens with the ink tube and tip pulled out but the best are Selma fids.
Alloy knitting needles from woolies are great
this video should be deleted - the technique demonstrated is not safe.
Why?
@@andresedmach3903 It's super easy to tie a locking brummel. But the knot here is not that! It can simply slip and fail. There are reasons to not tie a locking brummel - like aesthetics - but a tow rope is certainly not one of them.
Yes, I o prefer a locked Brummell as well but this is safe as long as there is a lock stitch and a 3 1/2 Fid length bury.
Would you suggest doing this when I swapped my hook out for a pro link?
This video should be titled "How NOT to do a Dyneema eye splice". There should be a locked brummel, the taper should be more gradual (cut like you did but do it strand-by-strand until you've cut 11 strands) and the bury should be much longer (ideally, 72x rope diameter).
That’s not exactly true. A 3 1/2 fid bury with a 1 fid taper will hold 90% of the rated breaking strength BUT could slip out when it isn’t under load which is the reason that it MUST be lock stitched. Yes, I always use a modified or “Locked” Brummell which doesn’t require the lock stitch but both methods hod a similar load.
What does tappering do i am just building moorings
If you dont taper you will create a point of failure where it ends inside. But this Video is not a good tutorial for eyesplices that really need to hold something. This eye will slip out over time if under varying loads
@@maltehundertmark912 well… to be fair this type of bury will hold fine as long as it is 3 1/2 fids long with a 1 fid taper and MUST be lock stitched for a 90% capacity.
I might have been tempted to pass the tail thru the rope a couple of times before buring the tail in the rope even though a Brummel lock can't be done on one end. Lock stitching is not a bad idea as well but in the case of your eye splice, it is critical. Good video. There are allot of scissors out there that will cut UHMD fibers well, look for Kevlar scissors.
What you’re describing is the original Brummell splice. The other one that most use now is the modified or “Locked” Brummell splice which doesn’t require lock stitching.
Hi, what is the make/model of the scissors you are using? Thanks.
They are Benser scissors. You may also find them listed as Clauss-Benser or BensClauss.
Ah, thanks. Made by SILKY, a Japanese company, famous for their professional cutlery and saws. Great choice!
Thanks! I had the same question. And thanks for the beautiful and simple video!
I splice Tech 12 a LOT and always side small KS-2 Kevlar scissors as they have micro teeth that keep the line going back towards the cut. They have them on Amazon - Miller KS-2 Fiber Optic Kevlar Scissors
What rope is that
Whats the name of that needle you use to do it? I can’t find it. Thank you.
In this video he uses SAMSON Splicing FIDS.
They are made of soft aluminum and are relatively thick.
Recommendation:
Use SELMA-Splicing FIDS.
They are made of thinner, polished stainless steel.
They work better, promise!
What is the name for the black thing
Edward Poland pipe thimble.
Grey is a nice color
What brand are the scissors?
Olegig buy bonsai scissors from eBay they are cheap and work really well.
Great vid
St range way of tapering à belive it is as good but it is the first time I see this😉
Most of this is wrong. I suggest that you investigate the way sailors do tapers and splices.
To be fair, the main thing wrong is that these buries MUST be lock stitched. With a 3 1/2 Fid bury and a 1 fid taper, these splices will hold 90% of the original breaking strength. Yes, I always use a locked Brummell but that’s mainly because I don’t like lock stitching. I know the taper is not technically correct but pretty close.
Joke ?
Mate, I just want to scoop out my own eyeballs with a fish hook, good info, mono tone rambling 🤬not such a fan
Dayum take sooooooooooooo long. Boring. Lost me
If you're not interested in doing the job then don't watch a video on how to do it.
Rusty
Search Premium Ropes.
They have some nice clear videos.
@@PanicAcid thing is, he did a shitty job. This is a great way to have a slipping splice
@@veganpottertheveganAll that was missing was the correct taper and lock stitching in which case it will hold 90% of the original breaking strength.