Why on gods earth are there only 60 upvotes?? This series is pure gold and far better than most things I have seen or read on this topic. Good job and a big thank you!!!
I absolutely love your work John. Never has a photographer inspired me like you do, there's something about your work that resonates deep within me (plus I happen to know you're an awesome dude as I've been privileged to have met you) Keep up the good work John!
When I was on Canon, I experimented with Magic Lantern, a project to make a custom firmware fixing shortcomings as they saw it of the Canon cameras, especially to do with video. One of those was shadow noise, and they experimented with Dual Iso to combine an image shot at iso 100 for the highlights with one shot at iso 1600 for the shadows, which is brought back 4 stops to produce clean shadows and fused with the regular iso 100 shot for the highlights and mid tones. It was very interesting to read about, but not practical in use. When I moved to Fuji and learned about the the Dynamic Range setting, I realised it is essentially the same concept, and through experimentation learned to trust the Auto settings, so now I leave my camera in Auto ISO with Auto DR, which will raise the ISO to 320 and use DR200 if the highlights are in danger of blowing out. That way I don’t have to think about it here in the bright Australian summer when there are harsh contrasts. On my Canon, I frequently shot brackets handheld and if I could be bothered later would put the brackets through Photomatix and then edit to produce a natural-looking image. The only time I bother with that these days is if shooting light festivals, like Chinese New Year lanterns at night and want the cityscape as well. So using the Dynamic Range with Raw images is a great thing, and saves me a lot of hassle, as the highlights are there to be recovered later. I’d rather have to shoot at iso320 than have the sky blow out. I haven’t experimented to find out if using DR400 is worth the extra hassle of changing settings on the go.
This is exactly what we need! I hoped to replace the 550d with 850d as family camera, but that camera was just a big gasp, so I decided to jump skip and ordered the X-T200 as our new family camera for Xmas;-) We shoot family images in jpeg's and look forward to the Fujifilm simulations!
I must say, a very impressive video. Is great to see such in depth assessment for fuji cameras than any other brands (i looked for nikon) Now i have a question on the dynamic range settings. Say in a situation I can't increase my iso if my scene demands it (example in your photo i don't want to blur waves), aperture already set at f11 for required depth of field; now if I have an option to shoot at ISO 640 while preserving highlights and still correctly exposing the shot. Then it does help even in shooting even raw. Your thoughts...
Beautiful work John. As much as I have tried shooting jpeg-only I am always forgetting to adjust WB when the environment changes. X-RAW Studio is painfully slow but gives me the most satisfying result. LR's Fuji camera matching profiles are close but no cigar.
Why cannot fuji update their FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO software to be compatible with X-T1 cameras? It would be a great addition to us owners of this little gem to manipulate and edit our own recipes. The camera has its own raw converter so why should it not work when connected with the software?
Excellent video. One question, so if Color Chrome Effect Blue affects blue, does that mean that Color Chrome Effect affects reds? It wasn't stated explicitly. Also, if they're such subtle effects, would you recommend leaving them both on strong?
i really like your videos, very informatives! i don't got one thing... if i shoot dr 200 or 400 i have to increase my ISO setting from the base value ( example in a bright day) , so the deal to have more dynamic range is a noiser image or the software manage this issue in some way? Hi from Italy!
I can't chose the blues and reds on the whitebalance... I don't see the arrow to right to customise them, is there a setting that is set so I can't use them or what am I doing wrong?
I'm having a hard time understanding how custom presets work on the x100v. Are they overriding the default sims that ship with the camera? I've searched around and there's a lot of guides on what settings to use for custom sims but now much how the banks work with each other etc.
Much to digest in this series, John. At vid 7 min, can’t tell what software is being demo’d - is that LR? Good demo of DR affects on RAW. Would like to be able to apply Fuji film simulation Profile - not preset - to non-Fuji RAW file in LR. LR only displays the Fuji profiles when the program recognizes a Fuji RAW file at the start. Understand there is a work-around that involves turning a Fujifilm LUT into a Fujifilm film simulation profile. The profile could then be added to LR as a user custom profile. Vid explaining the process would be terrific. For now, on to part 2.
Cheers Paul, I used LR to show the DR400 effect on the RAW file, but when demonstrating the effect on jpg, that software was X Raw Studio. I haven’t heard of creating LR Film simulations profiles for non Fujifilm camera files, must check that out. Thanks for your time.
Thanks Reza. As I am predominately a RAW only shooter, I cannot tell you for sure in every scenario that they would be ok to use, but for the time I have used them, I see no obvious downside to have it on all the time. With Chroma FX blue you may run the risk of slightly intensifying blue in parts of the images that are not sky or obvious parts you want to affect. Often white shirts or items of clothing have blue in them and this might affect those areas negatively. Again these effects are subtle so it would be ever so slight. Cheers
Hi, Like you presets, very useful, I still have questions, if I used my X Pro1 and X100, some of the presets have no effects, like the Acros modes, the icon lights are faded, all black & white color & brightness are the same, if I used my X Pro2, Acros modes brightness are solid. Is it because Lightroom or Photoshop Camera Raw can detect these older cameras which do not have these features ? If I used my X Pro2, even some icons colors were faded, still can see the difference of the presets.
Hi Chris, thanks for your question and time. Unfortunately the early x100 and xpro1 do not have access to Acros, Classic Chrome and others. The camera processor and file type generated by those cameras cannot avail of those profiles. You will see some change when selecting those presets, because of the tone curve adjustments I made, but those simulations won’t attach. Instead of using Acros maybe just convert to b&w in the develop module, select the dynamic range you want, then use the luminance colour sliders to adjust parts of the black and white image, very effective. Cheers
Fuji film simulations can be very powerful. I have noticed Fuji jpeg have a unique color to them that the raw processes can not duplicate exactly. Onecomment on the dynamic range settings. You should have let the camera metered and exposed to the right for both of them without clipping the highlights. The dynamic range 200 and 400% settings will give your Raw file more dynamic range although at the cost of more noise in the shadows.
Cheers Paul, thanks for your time and comment. There is certainly something special happening in camera with the colours of the Fujifilm jpegs. The example I gave of the change to raw files with dynamic range, was shot that way for demonstration purposes. Even though I presented the RAW files looking overexposed in post, looking through my view finder and exposing to the right, the jpg preview with DR settings looked perfect, the highlights retained. Just to point out that there is no additional dynamic range added to the raw file with DR settings. Raising the shadows by two stops in post on your base RAW iso or allowing the camera to push the shadows by raising ISO with DR are the same thing, both will have added noise in the shadows. Thanks again,
@@JohnArmstrongPhotography It sounds logical but I´m not quite sure personaly. If that is the case, how do you explain why when converting the raw in camera you can adjust a dr400 image down to dr200 or 100 but not the other way arround? If dr setting is just processing the raw differntly shoulndt it be possible to change from 100 to 400 aswell?!
I'm confused. You seem to say that dynamic range does not affect raw files before the section begins, but then you say it does affect raw files after the section ends. I googled it and found that the dynamic range setting does not affect the file in camera but it will when it's imported to a processor because the processor will understand that it was shot with that certain setting. Can you clarify your opinion of the effect dynamic range on raw files?
Hi Albert, thanks for the question. Yes DR settings effect both RAW and jpg, but it has no advantage when shooting RAW only. If for example you are shooting with DR400 at ISO800, your camera holds highlights at ISO200 and raises shadows by two stops, exposing for the darker parts of the scene at ISO800. The RAW image will retain that DR information and will create your jpg with the dynamic range improvement. When I say the DR setting doesn’t effect RAW, I’m talking about shooting RAW only and using the DR settings, there is simply no advantage to your RAWs. If you take a RAW image at ISO 200 in post production, and raise your shadows by two stops, you’ve effectively done the exact same thing the camera does when shooting at DR400. What I said applies to those who set their DR settings while shooting RAW only, expecting there to be an advantage in their RAW images in post production, there simply is not. Hope that helps.
Hi Bud, Trying to copy Kodachrome 64 into my TX4 as a Video simulation have done so in the Photo Mode but cant create as a video option....However a number of settings are different from the photo menu so i cant seem to replicate the reciepe to the letter....Example Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak...Cant seem to do that in video mode? How do a i? FYI Im a Newbie :)
Hi Vaughn, unfortunately you can’t. The jpg photos the camera produces with settings are processed in camera in a particular way. Video recorded to card is not processed in the same manner, so many of those photo features will not be accessible in video. I’m sure you could get it to closely resemble the look you want with WB adjustments, highlights and shadows, but not exactly the same. Cheers
Why on gods earth are there only 60 upvotes?? This series is pure gold and far better than most things I have seen or read on this topic. Good job and a big thank you!!!
I absolutely love your work John. Never has a photographer inspired me like you do, there's something about your work that resonates deep within me (plus I happen to know you're an awesome dude as I've been privileged to have met you) Keep up the good work John!
Cheers Shawn, I hope you guys are well, been a while. Thanks for your support and time, glad you are enjoying, hopefully chat soon.
Finally a good explanation for the DR settings. Thanks so much, I love your down-to-earth way of explaining things!
Cheers Andy, glad I could help.
First time I have come across your channel - like the no nonsense style and you clearly know your stuff 👍
Wow! By far the best and most informative videos on RUclips! 👌🏼👌🏼
Cheers Daniel
When I was on Canon, I experimented with Magic Lantern, a project to make a custom firmware fixing shortcomings as they saw it of the Canon cameras, especially to do with video. One of those was shadow noise, and they experimented with Dual Iso to combine an image shot at iso 100 for the highlights with one shot at iso 1600 for the shadows, which is brought back 4 stops to produce clean shadows and fused with the regular iso 100 shot for the highlights and mid tones. It was very interesting to read about, but not practical in use. When I moved to Fuji and learned about the the Dynamic Range setting, I realised it is essentially the same concept, and through experimentation learned to trust the Auto settings, so now I leave my camera in Auto ISO with Auto DR, which will raise the ISO to 320 and use DR200 if the highlights are in danger of blowing out. That way I don’t have to think about it here in the bright Australian summer when there are harsh contrasts. On my Canon, I frequently shot brackets handheld and if I could be bothered later would put the brackets through Photomatix and then edit to produce a natural-looking image. The only time I bother with that these days is if shooting light festivals, like Chinese New Year lanterns at night and want the cityscape as well. So using the Dynamic Range with Raw images is a great thing, and saves me a lot of hassle, as the highlights are there to be recovered later. I’d rather have to shoot at iso320 than have the sky blow out. I haven’t experimented to find out if using DR400 is worth the extra hassle of changing settings on the go.
Well done! Thank you for your insights
Explanation on DR is awesome. Much appreciated!!!
Thanks for explaining the DR setting and the chroma effect. Awesome videos!
You are welcome Asad, thanks for your time.
This is exactly what we need! I hoped to replace the 550d with 850d as family camera, but that camera was just a big gasp, so I decided to jump skip and ordered the X-T200 as our new family camera for Xmas;-) We shoot family images in jpeg's and look forward to the Fujifilm simulations!
Great to hear, enjoy your new camera and film simulations. Thanks for your comment and time.
I must say, a very impressive video. Is great to see such in depth assessment for fuji cameras than any other brands (i looked for nikon)
Now i have a question on the dynamic range settings. Say in a situation I can't increase my iso if my scene demands it (example in your photo i don't want to blur waves), aperture already set at f11 for required depth of field; now if I have an option to shoot at ISO 640 while preserving highlights and still correctly exposing the shot. Then it does help even in shooting even raw. Your thoughts...
Great Video (Especially for a beginner like me), thank you
Your information is amazing> Fuji should hire you man ...... Can these profile recipes be used on an X-T1 camera pls?
Beautiful work John. As much as I have tried shooting jpeg-only I am always forgetting to adjust WB when the environment changes. X-RAW Studio is painfully slow but gives me the most satisfying result. LR's Fuji camera matching profiles are close but no cigar.
Cheers Dave, yes that pretty much sums it all up. A bit of good in everything, but not yet there.
Why cannot fuji update their FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO software to be compatible with X-T1 cameras? It would be a great addition to us owners of this little gem to manipulate and edit our own recipes. The camera has its own raw converter so why should it not work when connected with the software?
Fantastic video
Groovy little tune John.
I know, it’s hard not to start dancing with my intros.🤣👍 cheers Ishijah1
You my friend, just took me back to school!!!!
Very useful info in this video!
But, I have to ask; What is your favourite kelleh?
Thanks. As always Great Massive Job. Waiting for new videos. Good luck.
Cheers Victor, I appreciate your time, support and kind gesture. 👍
Which software do you use (showing the Fujifilm presets in your video at minute 3)?
Excellent video. One question, so if Color Chrome Effect Blue affects blue, does that mean that Color Chrome Effect affects reds? It wasn't stated explicitly. Also, if they're such subtle effects, would you recommend leaving them both on strong?
thanks for explaining the chroma effect. love your videos.
Thanks for your support Ole.
i really like your videos, very informatives! i don't got one thing... if i shoot dr 200 or 400 i have to increase my ISO setting from the base value ( example in a bright day) , so the deal to have more dynamic range is a noiser image or the software manage this issue in some way? Hi from Italy!
Love your Video Thank you
I can't chose the blues and reds on the whitebalance... I don't see the arrow to right to customise them, is there a setting that is set so I can't use them or what am I doing wrong?
I'm having a hard time understanding how custom presets work on the x100v. Are they overriding the default sims that ship with the camera? I've searched around and there's a lot of guides on what settings to use for custom sims but now much how the banks work with each other etc.
Much to digest in this series, John. At vid 7 min, can’t tell what software is being demo’d - is that LR? Good demo of DR affects on RAW. Would like to be able to apply Fuji film simulation Profile - not preset - to non-Fuji RAW file in LR. LR only displays the Fuji profiles when the program recognizes a Fuji RAW file at the start. Understand there is a work-around that involves turning a Fujifilm LUT into a Fujifilm film simulation profile. The profile could then be added to LR as a user custom profile. Vid explaining the process would be terrific. For now, on to part 2.
Cheers Paul, I used LR to show the DR400 effect on the RAW file, but when demonstrating the effect on jpg, that software was X Raw Studio. I haven’t heard of creating LR Film simulations profiles for non Fujifilm camera files, must check that out. Thanks for your time.
thank you!!
Where have you been in my life? 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗 Followed
Very informative video! Are there any downsides to leaving color chrome and color chrome fx blue on strong all the time?
Thanks Reza. As I am predominately a RAW only shooter, I cannot tell you for sure in every scenario that they would be ok to use, but for the time I have used them, I see no obvious downside to have it on all the time. With Chroma FX blue you may run the risk of slightly intensifying blue in parts of the images that are not sky or obvious parts you want to affect. Often white shirts or items of clothing have blue in them and this might affect those areas negatively. Again these effects are subtle so it would be ever so slight. Cheers
Hi, Like you presets, very useful, I still have questions, if I used my X Pro1 and X100, some of the presets have no effects, like the Acros modes, the icon lights are faded, all black & white color & brightness are the same, if I used my X Pro2, Acros modes brightness are solid. Is it because Lightroom or Photoshop Camera Raw can detect these older cameras which do not have these features ? If I used my X Pro2, even some icons colors were faded, still can see the difference of the presets.
Hi Chris, thanks for your question and time. Unfortunately the early x100 and xpro1 do not have access to Acros, Classic Chrome and others. The camera processor and file type generated by those cameras cannot avail of those profiles. You will see some change when selecting those presets, because of the tone curve adjustments I made, but those simulations won’t attach. Instead of using Acros maybe just convert to b&w in the develop module, select the dynamic range you want, then use the luminance colour sliders to adjust parts of the black and white image, very effective. Cheers
@@JohnArmstrongPhotography Thanks for your advice, will try, greatly appreciated.
Fuji film simulations can be very powerful. I have noticed Fuji jpeg have a unique color to them that the raw processes can not duplicate exactly. Onecomment on the dynamic range settings. You should have let the camera metered and exposed to the right for both of them without clipping the highlights. The dynamic range 200 and 400% settings will give your Raw file more dynamic range although at the cost of more noise in the shadows.
Cheers Paul, thanks for your time and comment. There is certainly something special happening in camera with the colours of the Fujifilm jpegs. The example I gave of the change to raw files with dynamic range, was shot that way for demonstration purposes. Even though I presented the RAW files looking overexposed in post, looking through my view finder and exposing to the right, the jpg preview with DR settings looked perfect, the highlights retained. Just to point out that there is no additional dynamic range added to the raw file with DR settings. Raising the shadows by two stops in post on your base RAW iso or allowing the camera to push the shadows by raising ISO with DR are the same thing, both will have added noise in the shadows. Thanks again,
@@JohnArmstrongPhotography It sounds logical but I´m not quite sure personaly. If that is the case, how do you explain why when converting the raw in camera you can adjust a dr400 image down to dr200 or 100 but not the other way arround? If dr setting is just processing the raw differntly shoulndt it be possible to change from 100 to 400 aswell?!
I'm confused. You seem to say that dynamic range does not affect raw files before the section begins, but then you say it does affect raw files after the section ends. I googled it and found that the dynamic range setting does not affect the file in camera but it will when it's imported to a processor because the processor will understand that it was shot with that certain setting. Can you clarify your opinion of the effect dynamic range on raw files?
Hi Albert, thanks for the question. Yes DR settings effect both RAW and jpg, but it has no advantage when shooting RAW only. If for example you are shooting with DR400 at ISO800, your camera holds highlights at ISO200 and raises shadows by two stops, exposing for the darker parts of the scene at ISO800. The RAW image will retain that DR information and will create your jpg with the dynamic range improvement. When I say the DR setting doesn’t effect RAW, I’m talking about shooting RAW only and using the DR settings, there is simply no advantage to your RAWs. If you take a RAW image at ISO 200 in post production, and raise your shadows by two stops, you’ve effectively done the exact same thing the camera does when shooting at DR400. What I said applies to those who set their DR settings while shooting RAW only, expecting there to be an advantage in their RAW images in post production, there simply is not. Hope that helps.
This is not correct, and other videos on YT demonstrate that the raw files are affected.
Hi Bud, Trying to copy Kodachrome 64 into my TX4 as a Video simulation have done so in the Photo Mode but cant create as a video option....However a number of settings are different from the photo menu so i cant seem to replicate the reciepe to the letter....Example Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak...Cant seem to do that in video mode? How do a i? FYI Im a Newbie :)
Hi Vaughn, unfortunately you can’t. The jpg photos the camera produces with settings are processed in camera in a particular way. Video recorded to card is not processed in the same manner, so many of those photo features will not be accessible in video. I’m sure you could get it to closely resemble the look you want with WB adjustments, highlights and shadows, but not exactly the same. Cheers
@@JohnArmstrongPhotography Thanks Bud
The problem with the grain effect is that it adds grain to the highlights. That is not true with film.
11th.