You're literally my god right now. Excellent video, I'm starting to rebuild a 535 bobber and you cannot imagine how useful this is for someone who has never worked with an engine. Regards from Spain!
Best channel ive found too for a virago , they must all be generic design displacement engines would there be any great differences ?, is a workshop manual available for the engine assy procedure ie pictorial diagrams etc ?
Absolutely fantastic details. Never seen before. Its been very helpful for me, I was looking into clutch and push rod parts, Before I wasn't sure how to fix my push rod issue in my XV750, but now it's clear. Thank you and keep up.
Ohh my goodness! The cardboard trick is a great idea! This, among other things, is the reason why watching other people do the wrenching is so helpful. Sure, having a manual is important, but it is the little tips and tricks most of which can't be found in the manual, that are equally helpful. I need to get rid of the knocking in my engine and I already know I will be looking for a professional to do the work for me, but I am glad I could learn a thing or two from you. Thanks!
Glad it helped, sometimes it is just pulling at apart and having a look with a few basic things to look out for, it’s just nuts bolts and spanners really.
Dear friend, sorry for the inconvenience, when assembling the clutch system of my Virago 536, year 1999, I discovered that the wire locking ring was broken, here, it is not available for purchase, it is essential to install a new one, as, I believe that the one on my motorcycle was broken a long time ago. Thank you very much!
I asked, why do they have this information in the manual, and I saw in your video, you turning the shifter counterclockwise, which, in my understanding, would be the fifth gear position.
The compression ring is located in the clutch bell, retaining the first separator disc inside the clutch bell. According to the Yamaha manual, if it is removed or damaged, it must be replaced. The problem is that it's not available for purchase, I think I'm going to buy some steel wire for fishing, of the same gauge, and use it as a replacement, or leave it missing.
Nah that’s got me foxed, not sure, it’s been a while since I was in the engine, may be some sort of anti judder spring, but if it was working ok, wouldn’t worry, and if it’s easy to remake, I’d do that.
Thank you very much! If I can't find it to buy, I'll try to remake it with the material I mentioned, the difference between the two threads is that the fishing thread is more malleable.
@@cesarmedeiros4463 check in with Docs world, he is in the process of rebuilding his clutch. Click the video here, he’ll almost certainly know exactly what it’s for, and how to resolve, especially as he has his apart at the moment. ruclips.net/video/J5uGMBYvPDs/видео.html
Hello good morning Mr. Rich. Along with saying hello, I would like to ask you if you can test the play of the connecting rod bearings without completely uncovering the Virago's engine. Beforehand thank you very much.
Hi, if you mean between the side of the Conrod Big End and the webbing then relatively easily you can reach down with the head, barrels and pistons removed, if you mean using plastiguage between the bearing shell itself and the journal then I would say not possible to get to both sides of the end cap nut and bolt, to strip it apart, but if you have got that far, then a full engine strip is only a little more work. This is the problem with cases that go together side by side though, there is less room to do this sort of thing.
Good morning my friend. When assembling the Virago 535 engine, is it necessary to place the gearbox in neutral before closing the engine housing? Thank you very much.
No as long as you get all the forks to align in the grooves of the shafts, this is a benefit of a side case arrangement, it all goes together, and the case just slips over.
Hi ,,,,can you please answer a question for me ??? I,am stripping a Virago 535 engine down that has got issues with the gears....? Is it essential that i need to pull the Flywheel off or can i split the Crank case without doing this,,,,,,Thank you and kind regards ,,,,i look forward to your reply,,,,,Colin W
Yes you can but you’d have to pull all the other stuff off from the clutch side instead. I think you can probably just do one side or the other in order to split them, from memory can’t see why not.
Thanks for the excellent video, i'm looking to rebuild a 535 for a Cafe Racer conversion, are the parts for the engine rebuild still readily available ?
Yes mate, and you can buy engines quite cheaply, so harvesting for parts quite simple. Good luck with the project, I enjoyed making mine into a rat bike,any questions just ask !
Hi, On the clutch push rod, at both end there are small added extensions, both have threads. I found both ends are loose and rotating free even after having threads on both ends. Should they be free wheeling or should they be tight? I am working on 82' XV750 Virago clutch. Thanks.
The starter is pre engaged, so if you have a starter issue, best remove and strip and clean it as a starting point. It is in constant mesh with the first/second idler gear, the next issue you may have will be a worn starter clutch. But remove and bench test the starter first, they are easy to replace, but sometimes taking the stator cover off assists with getting it out, as the o ring grabs it pretty well.
Did you replace the clutch lever seal? Mines gone and I can't tell from watching but it looks like I need to split the cases to get to it. Can't find it in the manual either. Thanks. Great videos btw
@@memybikeni9931 the clutch push rod lever seal, near where you attach the clutch cable. I just did the bottom cylinder gaskets as no2 had a minor leak. Rebuilt her fired up fine. However another minor leak from the clutch push rod lever area. Engine back out the bike for the third time gotta love it right? Keep up the good work with your videos :)
@@spawn90761 ah I see exactly what you mean now, the actuator rod seal that is pulled by the cable ? Yes that is engine out as you would have to lift the actuator out of the case, and for that you need to remove the head and barrels for clearance. You will have to take the clutch cover off, and pull the clutch push rod out, ball bearing etc, and then take the stator cover off, and there is a locking bolt around about the 10 o’clock position from the neutral switch mechanism, so remove that. You may need to take the middle gear gear cover off as you will see that the middle gear does need to be positioned to allow clearance for the actuator rod to be lifted up. I imagine the seal then comes out the top as I couldn’t see any way to remove it from inside. I left mine assembled as it did not form part of my investigation inside the engine. But as you have gone that far with it, should be straight forward for you. check the torsion spring, it’s a good opportunity to replace it.
@@memybikeni9931 thanks for the tips such a pain to have to drag the engine out. But hey ho. Thanks for the knowledge my friend. I'm also based in the UK I'm near Cardiff.
Hello friend, maybe I can buy the compression spring ring from Yamaha, as the YZF R1 2004/2006 share the same system, the wire ring is a lock for the first metal ring, which is thicker. Looking for parts for the Virago 535/ 1999 is practically impossible, I call, and they tell me that it is not in the catalogue
I got a piece of wire and made a replacement for the ring. In my opinion, the ring only serves to take up some slack in a poorly designed project. Virago 535, 1999. I hope it works!
@@cesarmedeiros4463 yeah I think so, anti judder, type of thing. When I had mine apart I took the whole unit out as a cassette and didn’t have any issues with it.
Thank you very much for so much information, great teacher.   Feedback Resultados da Web  Google Thank you very much for so much information, great teacher.
dismantled the engine of my Virago 535, based on your other video, now I will be redoing all the work. Thank you very much.
Brilliant, glad it’s helping.
bardzo dziekuje za tenfilm naukowy .. super !!!... nie zaslaniasz kamery przybudowaniu fantastycznie👍👍
Thank you for your comment, not sure the translation gave me exactly what you wanted to say but I got the gist of it 👍
You're literally my god right now. Excellent video, I'm starting to rebuild a 535 bobber and you cannot imagine how useful this is for someone who has never worked with an engine. Regards from Spain!
Thank you for the kind words, it is just nuts and bolts and spanners, so have fun, and if you post anything I’ll be happy to take a look. Rich.
Best channel ive found too for a virago , they must all be generic design displacement engines would there be any great differences ?, is a workshop manual available for the engine assy procedure ie pictorial diagrams etc ?
Absolutely fantastic details. Never seen before. Its been very helpful for me, I was looking into clutch and push rod parts, Before I wasn't sure how to fix my push rod issue in my XV750, but now it's clear. Thank you and keep up.
Glad it helped, thank you for the comment.
Bravo! Thanks man, amazing job❤
Thank you
Ohh my goodness! The cardboard trick is a great idea! This, among other things, is the reason why watching other people do the wrenching is so helpful. Sure, having a manual is important, but it is the little tips and tricks most of which can't be found in the manual, that are equally helpful.
I need to get rid of the knocking in my engine and I already know I will be looking for a professional to do the work for me, but I am glad I could learn a thing or two from you. Thanks!
Glad it helped, sometimes it is just pulling at apart and having a look with a few basic things to look out for, it’s just nuts bolts and spanners really.
@@memybikeni9931 Thank you for sharing your courage, I really appreciate that :)
Dear friend, sorry for the inconvenience, when assembling the clutch system of my Virago 536, year 1999, I discovered that the wire locking ring was broken, here, it is not available for purchase, it is essential to install a new one, as, I believe that the one on my motorcycle was broken a long time ago. Thank you very much!
Hi mate, not sure exactly what spring ring you are referencing
I asked, why do they have this information in the manual, and I saw in your video, you turning the shifter counterclockwise, which, in my understanding, would be the fifth gear position.
The compression ring is located in the clutch bell, retaining the first separator disc inside the clutch bell. According to the Yamaha manual, if it is removed or damaged, it must be replaced. The problem is that it's not available for purchase, I think I'm going to buy some steel wire for fishing, of the same gauge, and use it as a replacement, or leave it missing.
Nah that’s got me foxed, not sure, it’s been a while since I was in the engine, may be some sort of anti judder spring, but if it was working ok, wouldn’t worry, and if it’s easy to remake, I’d do that.
Thank you very much! If I can't find it to buy, I'll try to remake it with the material I mentioned, the difference between the two threads is that the fishing thread is more malleable.
@@cesarmedeiros4463 check in with Docs world, he is in the process of rebuilding his clutch. Click the video here, he’ll almost certainly know exactly what it’s for, and how to resolve, especially as he has his apart at the moment. ruclips.net/video/J5uGMBYvPDs/видео.html
Hello good morning Mr. Rich. Along with saying hello, I would like to ask you if you can test the play of the connecting rod bearings without completely uncovering the Virago's engine. Beforehand thank you very much.
Hi, if you mean between the side of the Conrod Big End and the webbing then relatively easily you can reach down with the head, barrels and pistons removed, if you mean using plastiguage between the bearing shell itself and the journal then I would say not possible to get to both sides of the end cap nut and bolt, to strip it apart, but if you have got that far, then a full engine strip is only a little more work. This is the problem with cases that go together side by side though, there is less room to do this sort of thing.
Thank you for such an accurate response Mr. Rich. May the successes continue
Nice videos.. can't wait to next part.👍
Coming soon
Muito obrigado 🙏 👍🙏
You’re welcome hope it helped
Good morning my friend. When assembling the Virago 535 engine, is it necessary to place the gearbox in neutral before closing the engine housing? Thank you very much.
No as long as you get all the forks to align in the grooves of the shafts, this is a benefit of a side case arrangement, it all goes together, and the case just slips over.
Amazing!
thanks for your videos!
You’re welcome 😊
Muy buen trabajo
Thank you
Hi ,,,,can you please answer a question for me ??? I,am stripping a Virago 535 engine down that has got issues with the gears....? Is it essential that i need to pull the Flywheel off or can i split the Crank case without doing this,,,,,,Thank you and kind regards ,,,,i look forward to your reply,,,,,Colin W
Yes you can but you’d have to pull all the other stuff off from the clutch side instead. I think you can probably just do one side or the other in order to split them, from memory can’t see why not.
@@memybikeni9931 Much respect friend,,,
Thanks for the excellent video, i'm looking to rebuild a 535 for a Cafe Racer conversion, are the parts for the engine rebuild still readily available ?
Yes mate, and you can buy engines quite cheaply, so harvesting for parts quite simple. Good luck with the project, I enjoyed making mine into a rat bike,any questions just ask !
Thanks m8 that is appreciated 😊
Hi, On the clutch push rod, at both end there are small added extensions, both have threads. I found both ends are loose and rotating free even after having threads on both ends. Should they be free wheeling or should they be tight? I am working on 82' XV750 Virago clutch. Thanks.
I think the XV 750 must be altogether a different set up, this just has a rod, with a ball bearing, and no threaded parts to it.
Hi Rich. Nice videos. Thanks for the info. Could you tell me where can i find the info about the torque bolts?
Torque specs are usually just in the manufacturers service manual, here in the U.K. we have Haynes as the main goto book of lies.
@@memybikeni9931 lolo ok thanks!!
Does the starter motor suffer from an engagement problem on the 535 ?.
The starter is pre engaged, so if you have a starter issue, best remove and strip and clean it as a starting point. It is in constant mesh with the first/second idler gear, the next issue you may have will be a worn starter clutch. But remove and bench test the starter first, they are easy to replace, but sometimes taking the stator cover off assists with getting it out, as the o ring grabs it pretty well.
Hi the 2 big O rings are after you keep the gasket it comes on top of the oil ports before fixing the had i hope i am right .
Yes so they go on top of the barrels and under the head around the big oil port dowels. fit them at the same time. As fitting the head gasket.
Did you replace the clutch lever seal? Mines gone and I can't tell from watching but it looks like I need to split the cases to get to it. Can't find it in the manual either. Thanks.
Great videos btw
I think you mean gear changer ? But I’m not absolutely sure, I never changed mine, but I’d say it’s from the inside, these things usually are.
@@memybikeni9931 the clutch push rod lever seal, near where you attach the clutch cable. I just did the bottom cylinder gaskets as no2 had a minor leak. Rebuilt her fired up fine. However another minor leak from the clutch push rod lever area.
Engine back out the bike for the third time gotta love it right?
Keep up the good work with your videos :)
@@spawn90761 ah I see exactly what you mean now, the actuator rod seal that is pulled by the cable ? Yes that is engine out as you would have to lift the actuator out of the case, and for that you need to remove the head and barrels for clearance. You will have to take the clutch cover off, and pull the clutch push rod out, ball bearing etc, and then take the stator cover off, and there is a locking bolt around about the 10 o’clock position from the neutral switch mechanism, so remove that. You may need to take the middle gear gear cover off as you will see that the middle gear does need to be positioned to allow clearance for the actuator rod to be lifted up. I imagine the seal then comes out the top as I couldn’t see any way to remove it from inside. I left mine assembled as it did not form part of my investigation inside the engine. But as you have gone that far with it, should be straight forward for you. check the torsion spring, it’s a good opportunity to replace it.
@@memybikeni9931 thanks for the tips such a pain to have to drag the engine out. But hey ho. Thanks for the knowledge my friend. I'm also based in the UK I'm near Cardiff.
@@spawn90761 ah I’m in Reading so just up the road 😊
Show everything..
Please ?
compression spring ring
Do you mean the oil control ring on the pistons ?
How long does this usually take..?.
End to end allow maybe 20 hours.
Hello friend, maybe I can buy the compression spring ring from Yamaha, as the YZF R1 2004/2006 share the same system, the wire ring is a lock for the first metal ring, which is thicker. Looking for parts for the Virago 535/ 1999 is practically impossible, I call, and they tell me that it is not in the catalogue
Although I imagine a complete unit from a broken bike would be available at times.
I got a piece of wire and made a replacement for the ring. In my opinion, the ring only serves to take up some slack in a poorly designed project. Virago 535, 1999. I hope it works!
@@cesarmedeiros4463 yeah I think so, anti judder, type of thing. When I had mine apart I took the whole unit out as a cassette and didn’t have any issues with it.
hi
Hi there
Less talk is better
Yes you’re so right, instructional videos are so much better without any talking. I’ll be quiet now, do let me know when I can say something again.
Thank you very much for so much information, great teacher.


Feedback
Resultados da Web

Google
Thank you very much for so much information, great teacher.