This video just saved me as far as getting my beetle registered. But I agree. Slowwwww down. I had to pause rewind the short blinker section 4-5 times. Thanks
I followed all the instructions to install the wiring harness. The headlights and the emergency lights do not work. Running and Signal lights work, break light and reverse light work. Engine runs. I have new headlight switch, emergency light switch, headlight relay and flasher relay. What might be the cause of the headlights not working. Note: i tested the headlights directly to the battery and they are good. What could be the reason?
@@marcodenson6394 I test all switches and relays, new and old before installing them. Either way, if the headlight relay is not getting power from the headlight switch to the 56 terminal and the 30 terminal (from the headlight switch or fuse box) it won't turn on.
Need help. Video seems contradict itself. At 1:42 seconds it discusses the master cylinder switches and says blue and red wire go to the front switch. Then it says lines with red and red black wires have to go to the same switch. Obviously not enough prongs. The video then says each switch gets a red and red black from the same line to the same switch, then separate the line with the blue and red, putting one to the front switch and one to the back. I think this is the way it supposed to be. Is this correct?
The black wires and the black/red wires are doubled wires and either pair (black - black/red) go to the parallel terminals on either front or rear switch. If you have 3, 2 prong switches, the blue and the red go to the remaining switch. If you have 2, 3 prong switches the blue and red go to the either remaining terminal on either switch.
The turn signals on my 1969 beetle are not the type that are installed in the fender but are the small round turn signals that are installed on the bumper. they also only have a single line leading in for power and an internal ground. is there anyway i can still use them with the turn signal harness?
+Psykota Crimson The turn signal wire from the original harness will most likely have to be lengthened to reach the bumper light, but yes. The wire can be used to power the aftermarket turn signals on the bumper.
the headlight cover won't come off? screw threads grand and I have tried twisting it and pulling it and it won't budge. any suggestions on how to get it off?
+Mark F If all else fails, drill the head of the screw off so you can pull the headlight ring off. Then you can remove the headlight bulb holder and the bulb so that you can see what is keeping the screw from coming out.
I was checking my tail lights and when I turn them on only the left side turns on the right side doesn’t wanna turn on but both brake lights work and signal lights and suggestions?
We'd first check the white wire in the tail light housing for power with the tail lights on. If the wire has power, then you have a bad bulb (there are 2 filaments in the tail light bulb so the brake light filament may be good but the tail light filament is bad) or a bad contact in the bulb socket. If the wire does not have power, check the wire for a loose connection, perhaps in the right side of the engine compartment or at the fuse box. We're guessing the fuse is good as you didn't mention the front lights being out.
Where can i get a new brake light switch wiring harness? I know you sell the switch but my 1973 super beetle convertible female connection and wire is damaged and i would like to replace it. Thanks Tye
@@jasonwhite3080 The harness itself is something you'll have to make from scratch. It isn't offered currently as an individual part or as part of a complete kit.
I think my horn is shot, I tested for continuity to the steering wheel to under the boot, then from under the boot to the horn itself located under the driver's side fender and it was all good, is there any way to test the horn itself?
+Jordan Mann At the horn, with the key on, check for power (typically the black and yellow wire) with a test light or volt meter. If you have power at one terminal, use a jumper wire at the other terminal and ground it out to the mounting bolt or other bare metal on the body. If the horn has power, grounding out the other terminal should operate the horn, if the horn is functioning
+Alonso N A 1968-1969 Beetle Turn Signal Assembly can be installed on a 1972 Beetle Fender, yes. Both assemblies have a dual filament bulb (one running light wire and one turn signal wire). The later assembly has a small jumper wire running to the rear light which can be cut off. Keep in mind that most of the aftermarket 1964-1969 Turn Signal Assemblies today, Including the ones that we offer, are only the turn signal. They will not have the terminal or wire for the running light.
Sorry, I'm a VW hobbyist, not a voice actor. I've gotten better with our newer videos but fortunately the playback speed button is there to help slow me down.
@@Sam_Mebane I think you did an excellent job; how many cars have new wiring 'cause of you? :) Thank you for your videos! They ARE a treasure, fast or not!
+Clamon Fearrington The 1974 Beetle will have a fuse box with more terminals than the 68/69 Beetle. There are more "battery hot" and "key hot" positions. Overall though, the wiring layout is more or less the same.
+Angel Gil The brake light "circuit" starts at the fuse box, (with the key on check for power at the black and red wire at the fuse box). If you don't have power there it may just be a blown fuse or bad contact. If you have power there, then check power at the brake light switches (on the master cylinder) check for at either of the 2 parallel terminals (both wires will be black and red check both, one should have power). If there is not power then the wire from the fuse box may be cut. If there is power at one of the wires there, have an assistant press the brake pedal and check for power at the other black and red wire. If there is no power then the brake light switch is bad. If there is power there, go back to the fuse box area and check the black and red wire that connects to the main wiring harness black and red wire (or if you have a pre 1971 Bus or pre 1961 Beetle, the turn signal switch). Have an assistant press the brakes and check for power there. If there is no power then the wire from the switch may be cut. (If you have a pre 1961 Beetle or pre 1971 Bus, an additional step will be to check the power coming out of the turn signal switch. Check the black and yellow and black and red wires for power with the brake pedal pressed. If there is no power, the turn signal switch may be dirty or broken/bad.) If there is power, go to the rear of the car and check for power at the rear tail lights. Depending on the model, remove the tail light lense, bulb holder, etc to access the wiring at the tail lights. Again have an assistant press the brakes and check for power at the brake light bulb. Depending on the model it may be a black and red, red, or black and yellow wire. If you don’t have power there, again the wire/s may be cut. If there is power then the bulb is burnt out, the bulb holder/tail light assembly is not getting a good ground or the bulb socket may be loose or broken.
The most common cause is too tight of a brake pedal, essentially holding the brakes on slightly. There should be a small amount of free play in the pedal, before it actually starts applying brake pressure. Loosen the lock nut on the brake pedal push rod, then back the pushrod off and check to see if the brake lights are still on. If so, there may be a short in the switch or the wiring. If the lights do not come off with the free play adjusted, check the wiring and the switch. Disconnect the wires from the switch, the brake lights should go out. If they do not, there is a short in the wiring. If they do, the switch may be bad.
@@JBugsVWParts My brakes don't slow me down until the pedal is about half way down, and I have to really stomp on it all the way to the floor to stop. Could that be caused by the pedal being too loose? (71 super bug 4-wheel drums)
@@DarkElfDiva If the pedal stops at the same point every time, then most likely, yes. The brake pedal pushrod should be lengthened to remove some of the slack on the pedal. Keep in mind that if the rod is too long, the brakes won’t fully release which can cause the brakes to drag and could keep your brake lights on.
No, it isn't, but fortunately you can click on the little gear on the video and change the speed of the video to whatever speed best suits you. My apologies for not being a professional voice actor, I'm just a guy that enjoys working on VWs.
@@taylorfrisby9890 I don't, I try and teach them how to use the features that make their life easier! Personally, I listen to most of my audio books at 1.5 to 2 times speed so most of the time I speed up videos!
I could, but in the meantime you can click on the gear and change the playback speed to whatever suits you. I have to speed up most RUclips videos to make them easier for me to comprehend in a timely manor.
This video just saved me as far as getting my beetle registered. But I agree. Slowwwww down. I had to pause rewind the short blinker section 4-5 times. Thanks
Awesome. Thank you. Just received my wires from JBugs and this helps.
I followed all the instructions to install the wiring harness. The headlights and the emergency lights do not work. Running and Signal lights work, break light and reverse light work. Engine runs. I have new headlight switch, emergency light switch, headlight relay and flasher relay. What might be the cause of the headlights not working. Note: i tested the headlights directly to the battery and they are good. What could be the reason?
I would start by testing the headlight switch and relay - ruclips.net/video/Oq8j6BrLVMI/видео.html
@@Sam_Mebane I will do that, but it's a brand new relay I bought from Jbugs.
@@marcodenson6394 I test all switches and relays, new and old before installing them. Either way, if the headlight relay is not getting power from the headlight switch to the 56 terminal and the 30 terminal (from the headlight switch or fuse box) it won't turn on.
I live in Los Angeles. And want to rewire my 68 beetle, any recommendations on shops I can look into?
Need help. Video seems contradict itself. At 1:42 seconds it discusses the master cylinder switches and says blue and red wire go to the front switch. Then it says lines with red and red black wires have to go to the same switch. Obviously not enough prongs. The video then says each switch gets a red and red black from the same line to the same switch, then separate the line with the blue and red, putting one to the front switch and one to the back. I think this is the way it supposed to be. Is this correct?
The black wires and the black/red wires are doubled wires and either pair (black - black/red) go to the parallel terminals on either front or rear switch. If you have 3, 2 prong switches, the blue and the red go to the remaining switch. If you have 2, 3 prong switches the blue and red go to the either remaining terminal on either switch.
The turn signals on my 1969 beetle are not the type that are installed in the fender but are the small round turn signals that are installed on the bumper. they also only have a single line leading in for power and an internal ground. is there anyway i can still use them with the turn signal harness?
+Psykota Crimson
The turn signal wire from the original harness will most likely have to be lengthened to reach the bumper light, but yes. The wire can be used to power the aftermarket turn signals on the bumper.
Let's say I wanted to have LEDs hooked up to the turn signals/ parking lights. Which wire is hot, which is ground?
For the VW, the grey wire is the parking light hot, the black/white or the black/green wire is the turn signal hot, the brown wire is ground.
Great but can you slow down by about 25% , you make sense but didn't leave time for the information to sink in along the way.
Click on the gear icon in the lower right of the video, and go to playback speed.
the headlight cover won't come off? screw threads grand and I have tried twisting it and pulling it and it won't budge. any suggestions on how to get it off?
+Mark F
If all else fails, drill the head of the screw off so you can pull the headlight ring off. Then you can remove the headlight bulb holder and the bulb so that you can see what is keeping the screw from coming out.
I was checking my tail lights and when I turn them on only the left side turns on the right side doesn’t wanna turn on but both brake lights work and signal lights and suggestions?
We'd first check the white wire in the tail light housing for power with the tail lights on. If the wire has power, then you have a bad bulb (there are 2 filaments in the tail light bulb so the brake light filament may be good but the tail light filament is bad) or a bad contact in the bulb socket. If the wire does not have power, check the wire for a loose connection, perhaps in the right side of the engine compartment or at the fuse box. We're guessing the fuse is good as you didn't mention the front lights being out.
Where can i get a new brake light switch wiring harness? I know you sell the switch but my 1973 super beetle convertible female connection and wire is damaged and i would like to replace it.
Thanks Tye
@@jasonwhite3080 The harness itself is something you'll have to make from scratch. It isn't offered currently as an individual part or as part of a complete kit.
The harness itself is something you'll have to make from scratch. It isn't offered currently as an individual part or as part of a complete kit.
Yes, love all these videos. But please talk slower. We will all sit for an hour listening as long as we are learning.
I think my horn is shot, I tested for continuity to the steering wheel to under the boot, then from under the boot to the horn itself located under the driver's side fender and it was all good, is there any way to test the horn itself?
+Jordan Mann
At the horn, with the key on, check for power (typically the black and yellow wire) with a test light or volt meter. If you have power at one terminal, use a jumper wire at the other terminal and ground it out to the mounting bolt or other bare metal on the body. If the horn has power, grounding out the other terminal should operate the horn, if the horn is functioning
Could I do this on a 1965 beetle???
As long as you are patient and attentive, you should be able to.
www.jbugs.com/product/WK-113-1965.html
Can install 1968 trun signal light into 1972 standard bettle? Using same connection?
+Alonso N
A 1968-1969 Beetle Turn Signal Assembly can be installed on a 1972 Beetle Fender, yes. Both assemblies have a dual filament bulb (one running light wire and one turn signal wire). The later assembly has a small jumper wire running to the rear light which can be cut off. Keep in mind that most of the aftermarket 1964-1969 Turn Signal Assemblies today, Including the ones that we offer, are only the turn signal. They will not have the terminal or wire for the running light.
good video, might be easier to follow if you talked just a little more slowly.
If you play this at .75 its almost normal lol
Great vid, but I had to set the replay speed to 0.75 to understand what I was hearing
Sorry, I'm a VW hobbyist, not a voice actor. I've gotten better with our newer videos but fortunately the playback speed button is there to help slow me down.
@@Sam_Mebane I think you did an excellent job; how many cars have new wiring 'cause of you? :) Thank you for your videos! They ARE a treasure, fast or not!
@@dunraptoress5126 thanks, I've wired over a hundred myself....not sure about all the others!
Is this the same as the 1970?
Very similar, the 1970 front turn signals are different otherwise the harnesses are the same.
are the connections all the same for a 1974 beetle?
+Clamon Fearrington
The 1974 Beetle will have a fuse box with more terminals than the 68/69 Beetle. There are more "battery hot" and "key hot" positions. Overall though, the wiring layout is more or less the same.
Clamon Fearrington
Thanks for all the great videos but please slow down when talking. Can’t keep up. 👍
I rescued a 76 beetle and the wire I a mess
my break lights arent turning on , what could it be ?
+Angel Gil
The brake light "circuit" starts at the fuse box, (with the key on check for power at the black and red wire at the fuse box). If you don't have power there it may just be a blown fuse or bad contact.
If you have power there, then check power at the brake light switches (on the master cylinder) check for at either of the 2 parallel terminals (both wires will be black and red check both, one should have power). If there is not power then the wire from the fuse box may be cut.
If there is power at one of the wires there, have an assistant press the brake pedal and check for power at the other black and red wire. If there is no power then the brake light switch is bad.
If there is power there, go back to the fuse box area and check the black and red wire that connects to the main wiring harness black and red wire (or if you have a pre 1971 Bus or pre 1961 Beetle, the turn signal switch). Have an assistant press the brakes and check for power there. If there is no power then the wire from the switch may be cut.
(If you have a pre 1961 Beetle or pre 1971 Bus, an additional step will be to check the power coming out of the turn signal switch. Check the black and yellow and black and red wires for power with the brake pedal pressed. If there is no power, the turn signal switch may be dirty or broken/bad.)
If there is power, go to the rear of the car and check for power at the rear tail lights. Depending on the model, remove the tail light lense, bulb holder, etc to access the wiring at the tail lights. Again have an assistant press the brakes and check for power at the brake light bulb. Depending on the model it may be a black and red, red, or black and yellow wire. If you don’t have power there, again the wire/s may be cut.
If there is power then the bulb is burnt out, the bulb holder/tail light assembly is not getting a good ground or the bulb socket may be loose or broken.
JBUGS s
i checked and all it was , was the brake switch , i took it out and put in a new one
The brake lights don’t turn off what could it be?
The most common cause is too tight of a brake pedal, essentially holding the brakes on slightly. There should be a small amount of free play in the pedal, before it actually starts applying brake pressure. Loosen the lock nut on the brake pedal push rod, then back the pushrod off and check to see if the brake lights are still on. If so, there may be a short in the switch or the wiring. If the lights do not come off with the free play adjusted, check the wiring and the switch. Disconnect the wires from the switch, the brake lights should go out. If they do not, there is a short in the wiring. If they do, the switch may be bad.
@@JBugsVWParts My brakes don't slow me down until the pedal is about half way down, and I have to really stomp on it all the way to the floor to stop. Could that be caused by the pedal being too loose? (71 super bug 4-wheel drums)
@@DarkElfDiva If the pedal stops at the same point every time, then most likely, yes. The brake pedal pushrod should be lengthened to remove some of the slack on the pedal. Keep in mind that if the rod is too long, the brakes won’t fully release which can cause the brakes to drag and could keep your brake lights on.
@@JBugsVWParts The pedal stops when it touches the floor.
Speedy on Caffeine
Love ur videos but goodness is necessary to talk that fast ?
No, it isn't, but fortunately you can click on the little gear on the video and change the speed of the video to whatever speed best suits you. My apologies for not being a professional voice actor, I'm just a guy that enjoys working on VWs.
@Sam_Mebane love you. Don't listen to the haters
@@taylorfrisby9890 I don't, I try and teach them how to use the features that make their life easier! Personally, I listen to most of my audio books at 1.5 to 2 times speed so most of the time I speed up videos!
woow very nice video, just he speaks too fast, and no further detail, other than that very nice
We can control the play speed now. try 0.75
can you talk any faster
I could, but in the meantime you can click on the gear and change the playback speed to whatever suits you. I have to speed up most RUclips videos to make them easier for me to comprehend in a timely manor.