Good video. There's got to be other mechanics that get off work and watch someone else work on trucks too lol. I've done too many of these in 20 years and see it done wrong alot. It's satisfying to see other techs do a job well done.
Hi Another great Vid. As I do most of my own repairs ( Apart From Engine strip downs ) whenever I have to change an oil seal I always fit new bearings ( Maybe overkill but bearings are not that expensive ). And an axel Oil change. ( Again oil is relatively cheap ). Enjoy your vids very in formative and you never stop learning from watching others at work..
Cool learning this stuff as a Peterbilt parts guy. Little more involved vs our average half ton truck. Also helps understand when a customer of tech is asking for something.
Great video Ryan! Wish I had watched your video first - the video I watched left out some very important details... they showed using a hammer and punch to tighten the nuts. Now I get to go buy a 4" socket and a big torque wrench. And this time I'll add gear oil to the hub as well.
Thanks for the video. Doing this job tomorrow for the first time on a freightliner if I can get the parts. Done them before on other trucks but it seems like they are all a bit different. I always love knowing what I am getting into.
Got lucky on this one Ryan....the axle didn't have them nasty lock cups over the studs :) They sure can be a pain !! I remember the first time I came across them puppies , I did replace them but, with the split cups not the solids, it sure made it easier the second time around !! Thanks for the vid !
Here is a trick to removing those cone washers if that is what your referring to and yes this works for the solid cone washers. While hitting the end of the drive axle with a large hammer "may" break them loose, this method I was told by a head mechanic in a Peterbilt shop is pretty much guaranteed to work and with so little effort as long as you have a reasonably decent air hammer. First spin all the axle drive nuts loose so they are almost off of their respective studs but make sure they are still on by a few threads. Then take an air hammer and insert a dull chisel attachment, come in at what is almost a 90 degree ( probably 80 degrees ) angle from the axle end flange and set the dull chisel against the side of the bit of cone washer that protrudes. Only "blip" the trigger of the air hammer as it happens so fast that the cone washer shoots out of its bore and you don't want to hit the side of the drive studs and damage them. The reason becomes apparent for keeping the nuts on the ends of the studs as those cone washers will rocket across the shop otherwise !. One would swear how is that going to do much, well it does and once you do a wheel end that the cone washers don't just fall out with a couple of axle end whacks with a hammer and use this method, you will shake your head at how slick it works. Once the washers are all out and the nuts off the studs and you whack the axle end to pop it off the hub, your on your way.
Are u gonna eventually do in frames once u get your shop open?! That would be awesome vids. I only replaced one drive hub seal on my truck since I had it. Over a million miles on it. Probably get the bearings and seals replaced soon. 😎
so far so good couple things i noted.. my volume was full blast and hard time hearing and shouldn;t there be a safety under besides the jack? thanks good job
if the lock ring doesnt go on you flip it over first before you tighten it, the seal can be pushed in by hand, while adding oil to the hub is fine, it should be done by checking the diff level first, then jacking the axle up on the opposite side and filling, ensuring the diff is full, it looked like the scam moved when you checked it, which would be worn out bushings,
Ok stand corrected after looking thru the comments I found your procedures for this Spicer hub configuration and went to the Spicer web site never assume do your research on the equipment your servicing and follow the procedures in the service manuals that come from the manufacturer.
I think it's supplied by uniform company when you order they ask you if you want it with the reflective ,it's better to just have it incase of a service call
If the dowel pin does not align first flip it over , it may align if not proceed to tighten . To clean the hub bore use a die grinder with a emery flap wheel . Especially on the iron hubs .
Hi Ryan awesome job explaining thank you !!! Quick question if I need one seal replaced should I do all 4 ??? And whats the normal price for the job I'm in az
Can i ask a question?will changing out old diff oil with new oili n my 26 box truck rear axle cause the axle seals to start leaking?The truck came from the cold east coast boston area and I brought it to California where I live.it has 200 k miles on it. What do u think? thanks very much
You don’t check end play? Crush cones can deform. Actually not recommended to reuse but you can. But I always check end play on any hub that is reusing a crush cone.
If it’s too hard to turn with this type of hub would you do it by feel like a conventional hub or that’s normal? I was replacing a wheel seal and the previous guy who replaced the seal had the inner nut quite loose compared to the outer nut
When the iner peace of the seal stays on the spindle hammer that lip flat on top sometimes on bottom it oblongs that peace and you can remove it by hand without damaging anything
Just out of curiosity, I just did a seal job on an older model Mack and everyone I talked to said torque the rear nut to about 300 ft lbs then back off a quarter turn, spacer plate, then 300 on outer nut, is that only on the trailer side? Or only on certain models? Or did I just do it wrong? lol
@Hope Browning That is right. Snug the inner nut then lock the outer nut. He did 300 lbs because there was a crush type sleeve between the bearings. That is used now on most newer bearings. I grew up doing older macks and we just snugged the inner bearing. There is a torque spec for no spacer but i cant remember what it is.
Sorry for the long delay, the model number is TQR600E, Serial number is 1112801486. It is a snap on part. I made a video about the specific tool and other information. Video will be released in a couple days! Hope it it’ll help!
Does the hose coming off the turbo going to the charge air cooler have oil in it? If so you'll need a new turbo and VGT actuator. And would also recommend crank case filter
Where's the 1 to 5 thousands hub end play this is not the procedures that need to be followed there a are RUclips videos from the truck wheel bearing and hub manfactures on the proper precedures
Ur bearing Preload is wrong. Ur inner nut is ur adjusting Nut and should not be torqued to 300 it should be torqued to 100 and backed off 1/4. Ur outer nut is ur “Jam nut” which should be torqued to 350 ft pounds
This is a Spicer LMS Hub with a spindle spacer, so TMC RP-618, which you are referring to, is incorrect for this setup. As I said in the video, it can be identified by the plastic ring on the locking device, you can find instructions for these online, if you're unfamiliar with them. My instructions are correct, the inner nut is 300 ft lbs up to + 50 ft lbs, you never, ever back these off, period. If the locking ring does not line up, you tighten the inner nut further. The outer nut on the LMS goes to 300 ft lbs, as I said in the video, the Conmet types are usually 200 ft lbs. Again, this setup has a spindle spacer, so TMC RP-618 procedure would not apply to this hub type as it would for a manual adjust hub. Furthermore, these spindle spacer-type setups account for 95% of the wheels I what I see in the business, if guys out there are only torqueing them to 100ft lbs, then backing them off, that may account for the wheels/hubs flying off trucks out there. I have encountered many of these nuts (inner and outer) hand loose when I have went to remove them, most likely from using the incorrect procure when the last guy installed them.
Oh my god No wonder there are wheel offs no one people die from bad wheel seal jobs…. Dont dont this Just take it to your local ta its only $125 labor ish
We had a guy come into our shop once that someone put the inner nut on backwards. The tab on the inner nut was toward the bearing. The whole assembly (HUB, AXLE, TIRES, RIMS, and DRUM) came off and ended up on the bridge of I-95 and another truck hit it and ran into the water and the driver died. The tow truck brought the truck in with the missing wheel and said I got to go to another truck in the same spot. At the time we had no idea the truck that was at our shop caused the accident. A few days later we had, DOT, Highway Patrol, and everyone looking for the guy and for information. We are in SC but he had the wheel seal replaced in FL. The guy was from NC. Not sure what happened. Probably been 15 years ago.
Excellent, I drove for 30 years now its time to learn how to work on them.
Your a wealth of Knowledge for such a young man. I wish I had me a shop, tools and property to learn all this
Good video. There's got to be other mechanics that get off work and watch someone else work on trucks too lol. I've done too many of these in 20 years and see it done wrong alot. It's satisfying to see other techs do a job well done.
Great job Ryan! I hope you realize you are going to have more work than you will be able to do because your that Good, and honest!!
I appreciate the kindness! Enjoy your comment!
Hi Another great Vid. As I do most of my own repairs ( Apart From Engine strip downs ) whenever I have to change an oil seal I always fit new bearings ( Maybe overkill but bearings are not that expensive ). And an axel Oil change. ( Again oil is relatively cheap ). Enjoy your vids very in formative and you never stop learning from watching others at work..
I like your jack Stan safety always safety
Cool learning this stuff as a Peterbilt parts guy. Little more involved vs our average half ton truck. Also helps understand when a customer of tech is asking for something.
Glad it helpes!
Been in the TA shop 3hrs vs this 30mins video.
TIM!!!! Haven't seen you since ACB1. Glad to see youre doing well.
Great video Ryan! Wish I had watched your video first - the video I watched left out some very important details... they showed using a hammer and punch to tighten the nuts. Now I get to go buy a 4" socket and a big torque wrench. And this time I'll add gear oil to the hub as well.
👍
Great video! Love watching this stuff, PLEASE keep them coming!
Thank you for this video. This will help in the future. Thank you indeed
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video. Doing this job tomorrow for the first time on a freightliner if I can get the parts. Done them before on other trucks but it seems like they are all a bit different. I always love knowing what I am getting into.
The Fruehauf axles were the best. Just tighten it up, turn it back til the cotterpin lock would go in and done.
Great video! Thanks for the in depth explanation. 👍
You are welcome!
I always wondered how they put oil in there . Nice video .
Thank you!
Got lucky on this one Ryan....the axle didn't have them nasty lock cups over the studs :) They sure can be a pain !! I remember the first time I came across them puppies , I did replace them but, with the split cups not the solids, it sure made it easier the second time around !!
Thanks for the vid !
Here is a trick to removing those cone washers if that is what your referring to and yes this works for the solid cone washers. While hitting the end of the drive axle with a large hammer "may" break them loose, this method I was told by a head mechanic in a Peterbilt shop is pretty much guaranteed to work and with so little effort as long as you have a reasonably decent air hammer. First spin all the axle drive nuts loose so they are almost off of their respective studs but make sure they are still on by a few threads. Then take an air hammer and insert a dull chisel attachment, come in at what is almost a 90 degree ( probably 80 degrees ) angle from the axle end flange and set the dull chisel against the side of the bit of cone washer that protrudes. Only "blip" the trigger of the air hammer as it happens so fast that the cone washer shoots out of its bore and you don't want to hit the side of the drive studs and damage them. The reason becomes apparent for keeping the nuts on the ends of the studs as those cone washers will rocket across the shop otherwise !. One would swear how is that going to do much, well it does and once you do a wheel end that the cone washers don't just fall out with a couple of axle end whacks with a hammer and use this method, you will shake your head at how slick it works. Once the washers are all out and the nuts off the studs and you whack the axle end to pop it off the hub, your on your way.
Good work 👍
Thank you!
I like that seal puller
Very nice work sir.! Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Great job rayon I've learnt a lot from you
Awesome channel!! Very informative. Thanks for posting.
Thank you!
Thank you Ryan
great job,,simple and professional..thanks..
Great video please keep videos like these coming thank you so much
Excellent video Ryan. Great explanation. Subscribed.
Thank you!
thank's a good show. Dave
Thank you!
good video, Thx Ryan
Thanks 🙏
Is there a specific torque for each inner axle nut depending on the seal type or are they all torqued to 300? Love this videos man keep ‘em coming!
They are torqued depending on what axle nut.
Are u gonna eventually do in frames once u get your shop open?! That would be awesome vids. I only replaced one drive hub seal on my truck since I had it. Over a million miles on it. Probably get the bearings and seals replaced soon. 😎
We have a one bay shop now. Can offer the bearing and seal job. But in frame job will have to wait until our 3 bay shop build up.
THANK YOU
You are welcome!
Thanks 🇨🇱
top job Ryan......interesting work
Thank you!
Job very well done 👍👍👍
Thanks
Great video sir. Thanks
Thanks!
so far so good couple things i noted.. my volume was full blast and hard time hearing and shouldn;t there be a safety under besides the jack? thanks good job
if the lock ring doesnt go on you flip it over first before you tighten it, the seal can be pushed in by hand, while adding oil to the hub is fine, it should be done by checking the diff level first, then jacking the axle up on the opposite side and filling, ensuring the diff is full, it looked like the scam moved when you checked it, which would be worn out bushings,
Thank you!
Ok stand corrected after looking thru the comments I found your procedures for this Spicer hub configuration and went to the Spicer web site never assume do your research on the equipment your servicing and follow the procedures in the service manuals that come from the manufacturer.
Thanks for the video
Very informative
Good job thanks
Thank you!
Thanks for this video!
You are welcome!
Gr8 video thanks
Thank you!
Great video brotha
Thank you!
good job ..... thanks
Great video! just subscribed .. Thanks
Thank you! Welcome aboard! 👌
Excellent 👍✌️
Thanks
Are you going to demonstrate on an inboard drum too?
Great video..
Thank you!
What torque wrenches do you use and how often do you have them calibrated?
Why do wear the reflective gear in the shop
I think it's supplied by uniform company when you order they ask you if you want it with the reflective ,it's better to just have it incase of a service call
If the dowel pin does not align first flip it over , it may align if not proceed to tighten . To clean the hub bore use a die grinder with a emery flap wheel . Especially on the iron hubs .
Good Video!!
hello, what size is that garage that you're in? what is the height?
Hi Ryan awesome job explaining thank you !!! Quick question if I need one seal replaced should I do all 4 ??? And whats the normal price for the job I'm in az
These hub nuts are torqued to 300 then left, not backed off? How do you know which hubs to leave torqued and which to back off one flat of the nut?
Can i ask a question?will changing out old diff oil with new oili n my 26 box truck rear axle cause the axle seals to start leaking?The truck came from the cold east coast boston area and I brought it to California where I live.it has 200 k miles on it. What do u think? thanks very much
Aren’t you supposed to torque to 300 then back off a turn then retorque to 50? Or no because you have that spacer in there? Maybe mines old school
Oil ? Change axle oil ?
Hello Ryan,what size sockets are those axle nuts.
Do you have a video on how to replace a rotor?
You don’t check end play? Crush cones can deform. Actually not recommended to reuse but you can. But I always check end play on any hub that is reusing a crush cone.
If it’s too hard to turn with this type of hub would you do it by feel like a conventional hub or that’s normal? I was replacing a wheel seal and the previous guy who replaced the seal had the inner nut quite loose compared to the outer nut
Easy money
😊
Can you tell me what is the average price to have this done? Found one starting to let go this morning on pre trip
How can it turn by hand if its supposed to be 300ft lb?
When the iner peace of the seal stays on the spindle hammer that lip flat on top sometimes on bottom it oblongs that peace and you can remove it by hand without damaging anything
Depending on the model of the seal
Hey man, my shop doesn’t provide with this tool. Could you tell me the part number for the seal installer please.
Nevermind I found it lol. Carry on
Just out of curiosity, I just did a seal job on an older model Mack and everyone I talked to said torque the rear nut to about 300 ft lbs then back off a quarter turn, spacer plate, then 300 on outer nut, is that only on the trailer side? Or only on certain models? Or did I just do it wrong? lol
@Hope Browning That is right. Snug the inner nut then lock the outer nut. He did 300 lbs because there was a crush type sleeve between the bearings. That is used now on most newer bearings. I grew up doing older macks and we just snugged the inner bearing. There is a torque spec for no spacer but i cant remember what it is.
Trying to find that torque wrench and socket used in this video and the links ain’t helping my friend 😅😅
With that seal you don’t even need the driver those had hand install. I use the same seals
Ryan what does that seal remover tool run, can send the part number or business info
Why not clean the spindle?
Hey bro how much you charge for full pm ,paccar mx13 epa 17
Sorry for the delay. Roughly $150 for labor.
@@truckingandfixing no bad ok ill keep your info ,thank you!
i can smell this video
Where could I get the torque wrench please if have tool item number that would help also thanks.
Sorry for the long delay, the model number is TQR600E, Serial number is 1112801486. It is a snap on part. I made a video about the specific tool and other information. Video will be released in a couple days!
Hope it it’ll help!
wheel seals can seep its fine..
Can u please tell me why I have so much oil coming out through the blow by tube have to put oil every 2 days
It could be the rings or turbo issue.
I have been getting codes for the VGT turbo actuator
Does the hose coming off the turbo going to the charge air cooler have oil in it? If so you'll need a new turbo and VGT actuator. And would also recommend crank case filter
Ryan how do we in touch with you?
Paul, you can check the video description, it shows our business website, phone and email. Hope it helps.
@@truckingandfixing thank you West coast Seabee from a east coast Seabee
Where's the 1 to 5 thousands hub end play this is not the procedures that need to be followed there a are RUclips videos from the truck wheel bearing and hub manfactures on the proper precedures
thats how prices rises using wrong tools
Ur bearing Preload is wrong. Ur inner nut is ur adjusting Nut and should not be torqued to 300 it should be torqued to 100 and backed off 1/4. Ur outer nut is ur “Jam nut” which should be torqued to 350 ft pounds
This is a Spicer LMS Hub with a spindle spacer, so TMC RP-618, which you are referring to, is incorrect for this setup. As I said in the video, it can be identified by the plastic ring on the locking device, you can find instructions for these online, if you're unfamiliar with them. My instructions are correct, the inner nut is 300 ft lbs up to + 50 ft lbs, you never, ever back these off, period. If the locking ring does not line up, you tighten the inner nut further. The outer nut on the LMS goes to 300 ft lbs, as I said in the video, the Conmet types are usually 200 ft lbs. Again, this setup has a spindle spacer, so TMC RP-618 procedure would not apply to this hub type as it would for a manual adjust hub. Furthermore, these spindle spacer-type setups account for 95% of the wheels I what I see in the business, if guys out there are only torqueing them to 100ft lbs, then backing them off, that may account for the wheels/hubs flying off trucks out there. I have encountered many of these nuts (inner and outer) hand loose when I have went to remove them, most likely from using the incorrect procure when the last guy installed them.
Oh my god
No wonder there are wheel offs no one people die from bad wheel seal jobs….
Dont dont this
Just take it to your local ta its only $125 labor ish
We had a guy come into our shop once that someone put the inner nut on backwards. The tab on the inner nut was toward the bearing. The whole assembly (HUB, AXLE, TIRES, RIMS, and DRUM) came off and ended up on the bridge of I-95 and another truck hit it and ran into the water and the driver died. The tow truck brought the truck in with the missing wheel and said I got to go to another truck in the same spot. At the time we had no idea the truck that was at our shop caused the accident. A few days later we had, DOT, Highway Patrol, and everyone looking for the guy and for information. We are in SC but he had the wheel seal replaced in FL. The guy was from NC. Not sure what happened. Probably been 15 years ago.
It happens oh so often man… im in ohio and i see prolly 15 ish range every year
What makes you think the guys at the TA are so good?
@@helloneighbor11 their not but if falls off or kills people its covered
@@mikewilson3836 the guy in the video is working for someone. He's covered by someone's insurance just the same
Ryan you can do all of that without removing the wheels
I still remove the wheels. It's just easier to reassemble without damaging the seal especially out of the shop when I don't have a wheel dolly.