I use my shopvac blowing air in the tailpipe while engine is off and spray soapy water around engine and hoses. (If you have duel exhaust, use a shop towel or a sock in the 2nd exhaust while blowing air in the 1st exhaust. Once done checking the 1st exhaust change over to the 2nd exhaust and do the same exact as before).
Captain, I have a 96 Suzuki sierra with a g13b, when I cold start it the rpm goes to 2k rpm. I’ll let it stay there for a minute or 2 then when I press the brake pedal sometimes I have to press it twice the idle drops to normal 950 ish. runs fine after that. but on occasion has a crank no start when cold but starts the second crank.
My 95 camaro 3.8 has a hesitation at acceleration. Nobody could diagnose it. I had it at five different mechanic shops.. but recently, my brake pedal got real hard and I can hear a hissing sound under my dashboard right away. I thought vacuum leak. I took it to a shop and they determined that I had a bad booster. My question is do you think that could have been causing my hesitation at acceleration issue?
I got a p0108 I change the map sensor it was damage but it also said in that code it can be a vacuum leak or air filter or throttle body the car crank with power but it doesn’t stay on unless I Gass it then it will stay on roughly
i need your mechanic expertise now on these several scenarios that happened to my old car. my car is an old ford expedition 2000 model with 5.4 v8 engine. previously it is running fine, it starts immediately with no issues. but lately i first noticed that i am starting to have issues starting the car at once, even after several tries. it cranks but wont start that quick, then i discovered that if i put my key to the on position for 45 seconds to more than a minute then crank the car, it will start. this happened for a period of time. then after several months i started experiencing sudden stalling or the car just dies while driving. so what i did is pause the car for a bit and then start it up again and then it will run fine. later, upon my personal analysis i decided to replace some parts with the idea of solving these issues so i replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft sensor. later i also replaced all 8 of the ignition coil and spark plug. after that it runs fine although sometimes i still need to wait for the key to be on the ON position for at least 15 seconds to a minute to start but after that the car runs ok. but after several weeks it started acting up again weird, it just stalls while driving again. so like i am back to zero into analyzing why is this happening. somebody also suggested to add a cleaning fluid in the petrol to clean the catalytic converter and oxygen sensor and hope that this works. what is your take on these steps that i have taken and any other suggestions you can give on the mechanics point of view and expertise, thank you very much
I get a vacuum leak code in bank 2 only while decelerating or coasting. I tried smoke test, carb cleaner, changed maf, map, and 02 sensors. I am getting a lot of misfires on cylinder 8 mostly I swapped coils, changed spark plugs and wires. I still cant find it. If i am driving I can recreate and watch it in live data, i switch from drive to neutral and it will not go lean.
I have all the symptoms. Drives fine when comingbto stop sputters and rough idle. I hear hissing from top of manifold. Fuel trims are good at idle but get crazy when driving alot
07 gmc Yukon XL- so I was driving on highway then all sudden check engine starts blinking wich is a first then traction light also came on then I took my exit and came to a red light then starts making a ugly sound and is not taking off as it should..so I saw other RUclips videos of ppl same problem changed spark plugs,wires,and ignition coils and problem fixed but I did all that and still..doesn't sound as bad but still check engine light blinking and traction comes on..so I put scan tool for evap leak and it failed.. just hope I'm able to fix
I had that same problem happen on my 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 I blew a head in cylinder 1 the oil was milky. That was a major repair for me plus had to get a new oil pump it ram me $3300. I don’t know if your issue is the same as mines but I remember what’s happened to me when I seen the check engine light flashing red and traction control came on
Usually a bad throttle body will trigger reduced engine power. Vacuum leak will cause poor idle/stalling at low speed. To answer the question, it can trigger the reduced engine power warning light.
I have this problem.. whenever I rev the engine. I hear like vacuum from the engine and it's delaying on reving.. it's killing me on gas.. the fourth spark plug is burning pretty much ok..by the number 1,2,3 are not burning effective.
My car runs fine when long fuel trim is -2 but when it comes to - 10 then car drops rpm at stop and car sometimes have - 2 trim and sometimes have - 10 trim
I wish I found this video before i changed spark plugs, fuel injectors, throttle body, fuel pump, fuel filter, oxygen sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition coil and ignition wires. Lol
Sir wanted your advice My engine has a vaccum leak Which has increased my rpm and decreased milage I have checked vaccum hoses all are ok And my fuel mixture is also great Means water is coming from my cylincer Can you please tell me what other areas I must check Because am not getting it My air fuel mixture is perfect And then a vaccum leak Which has increased my idle and decreased milage too much My 1 litre average was 18km And now it's 4 km
I have been notisting my isuzu ascender been sweating water from the back pipe. And underneath. But when i take it to a mecanic he saids is normal. But i know is not. Then went for a computer test in about 3 places it diagnost a vacuum leak and catalyst issues. But this mecanics are very ignorant! Know i dont know where ti take in. They were not able to fix an antifreeze leak. They had cut my heater core hose and didn't tight it enough left it loose then my antifreeze was all over my hood. Some one tighten my clamp. But the leak i notist is underneath my reservoir container so im thinking it my have a crack underneath thr container. It leaks only when the truck reaches its temperature. I also have a powersteering leaking 😢 so expensive to get thid fixed 😢
hi! Need your experitse help please! When I drive my car it has no engine braking so when i release gas pedal it coasts to fast forward. Also when i acellarate I have to press gas pedal to hard while on my other car I can just tap the pedal and it goes. It seems as it has some pressure the car is fighting when acelarating while no pressure when i release gas pedal and it should be opposite. Aynways I got no engine braking or very little what you think is the problem? Also the car exhaust sounds much quitter than other car and I get on cold start cloud of blue smoke on startup
Is the check engine light on? Could be a lot of things. For example, bad accelerator pedal position sensor, clogged catalytic converter, bad tps, limp mode, bad transmission etc..
@@Top5AutoRepairs check engine light was on before and we replaced maf sensor and 02 sensor one time with salvaged one and now with new one. Mechanic said it might be the cat. Also noticed engine gets really warm on just short ride and exhuast seems kinda too quiet. Im thinking bad cat and valves. Cause when i raise rpm in idle and then take off car sounds and rides better for few meters like i clean exhuast fumes or get him some air for short time
You explain with clarity which made it easy for me to repair my vacuum lines
You do a good Job Man! Thank you for your channel Sir!
You are very welcome
You are very welcome
Superb video! Your explanation for diagnosis was excellent!
You Are Awesome Explaining In Detail. Thanks Sharing.
I use my shopvac blowing air in the tailpipe while engine is off and spray soapy water around engine and hoses. (If you have duel exhaust, use a shop towel or a sock in the 2nd exhaust while blowing air in the 1st exhaust. Once done checking the 1st exhaust change over to the 2nd exhaust and do the same exact as before).
Thank you for this. Hands-on experience sharing right here.
Thanks for your help, excellent information. Note you can also use a propane small tank and rubber hose, there is a spark.
Thank you.
Very helpful. Thanks for the pointers. Older vehicles (manual fuel pumps) often present multiple issues contributing to the same symptom.
thank you. it was the brake booster hose in my case
Did you have random miss fire ??
Nice class brother!
Very good explanation
thank you great knowledge
Captain, I have a 96 Suzuki sierra with a g13b, when I cold start it the rpm goes to 2k rpm. I’ll let it stay there for a minute or 2 then when I press the brake pedal sometimes I have to press it twice the idle drops to normal 950 ish. runs fine after that. but on occasion has a crank no start when cold but starts the second crank.
My 95 camaro 3.8 has a hesitation at acceleration. Nobody could diagnose it. I had it at five different mechanic shops.. but recently, my brake pedal got real hard and I can hear a hissing sound under my dashboard right away. I thought vacuum leak. I took it to a shop and they determined that I had a bad booster. My question is do you think that could have been causing my hesitation at acceleration issue?
Very interesting and helpful information.
I got a p0108 I change the map sensor it was damage but it also said in that code it can be a vacuum leak or air filter or throttle body the car crank with power but it doesn’t stay on unless I Gass it then it will stay on roughly
Very helpful!
i need your mechanic expertise now on these several scenarios that happened to my old car. my car is an old ford expedition 2000 model with 5.4 v8 engine. previously it is running fine, it starts immediately with no issues. but lately i first noticed that i am starting to have issues starting the car at once, even after several tries. it cranks but wont start that quick, then i discovered that if i put my key to the on position for 45 seconds to more than a minute then crank the car, it will start. this happened for a period of time. then after several months i started experiencing sudden stalling or the car just dies while driving. so what i did is pause the car for a bit and then start it up again and then it will run fine. later, upon my personal analysis i decided to replace some parts with the idea of solving these issues so i replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft sensor. later i also replaced all 8 of the ignition coil and spark plug. after that it runs fine although sometimes i still need to wait for the key to be on the ON position for at least 15 seconds to a minute to start but after that the car runs ok. but after several weeks it started acting up again weird, it just stalls while driving again. so like i am back to zero into analyzing why is this happening. somebody also suggested to add a cleaning fluid in the petrol to clean the catalytic converter and oxygen sensor and hope that this works. what is your take on these steps that i have taken and any other suggestions you can give on the mechanics point of view and expertise, thank you very much
Thnx❤
Does a vacuum leak cause a misfire only when the car is idling or when driving as well?
Idling
What about the hoses connected to the manifold that’s connected to the brake booster?
I get a vacuum leak code in bank 2 only while decelerating or coasting. I tried smoke test, carb cleaner, changed maf, map, and 02 sensors. I am getting a lot of misfires on cylinder 8 mostly I swapped coils, changed spark plugs and wires. I still cant find it. If i am driving I can recreate and watch it in live data, i switch from drive to neutral and it will not go lean.
Very helpful
Sir.What is the spray you use to check vacuum?
What will be the normal STFT?
Carburetor cleaner.
Less than 10 + or -
Thanks bud!
I have all the symptoms. Drives fine when comingbto stop sputters and rough idle. I hear hissing from top of manifold. Fuel trims are good at idle but get crazy when driving alot
Looking at coil packs and injectors also It's a 2021 silverado 🤦 no codes takes a while to act up when temps are colder 79 degrees runs like trash
Could a leaking powersteering be considered a vaccum leak? And a broken kind of reservoir container for antifreeze?
Thank you thank you. I couldn't figure this out. I thought it was my fuel pump.
literally same bro
How about spark advance? My caliber was going negative 7 degrees spark advance with the intake manifold leak. Rough idle. All better now .
Informative... Thank you.... Smoking method how it's done?
You use a smoke machine and introduce smoke in the vacuum or intake.
07 gmc Yukon XL- so I was driving on highway then all sudden check engine starts blinking wich is a first then traction light also came on then I took my exit and came to a red light then starts making a ugly sound and is not taking off as it should..so I saw other RUclips videos of ppl same problem changed spark plugs,wires,and ignition coils and problem fixed but I did all that and still..doesn't sound as bad but still check engine light blinking and traction comes on..so I put scan tool for evap leak and it failed.. just hope I'm able to fix
I had that same problem happen on my 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 I blew a head in cylinder 1 the oil was milky. That was a major repair for me plus had to get a new oil pump it ram me $3300. I don’t know if your issue is the same as mines but I remember what’s happened to me when I seen the check engine light flashing red and traction control came on
Typo ran
Misfire
It was the lifters..common problem with these.
Can a vacuum leak trigger reduced engine power
Usually a bad throttle body will trigger reduced engine power. Vacuum leak will cause poor idle/stalling at low speed. To answer the question, it can trigger the reduced engine power warning light.
Thank you
Does it course a car to stop pulling? Where you driving
How about a p0507
I have this problem.. whenever I rev the engine. I hear like vacuum from the engine and it's delaying on reving.. it's killing me on gas.. the fourth spark plug is burning pretty much ok..by the number 1,2,3 are not burning effective.
Went to give you a thumbs down but vacuum pulled me into the thumbs up. Subbed.
I drove a car with vacuum leak for 200kms. Will it cause permanent damage?
My car runs fine when long fuel trim is -2 but when it comes to - 10 then car drops rpm at stop and car sometimes have - 2 trim and sometimes have - 10 trim
I have constant low RPM (around 500 rpm) at idle...
sad, my modded engine LTFT is reaching 50% at idle.. idk what the fck is going on... when using bigger injector, the LTFT drop to 30% at idle
I wish I found this video before i changed spark plugs, fuel injectors, throttle body, fuel pump, fuel filter, oxygen sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition coil and ignition wires. Lol
Would it accelerate choppy kinda? Or idle weird I’m trying to find mine
@@Two_tone6.0 In my situation, my brake booster line was loose, so it would throw an epc light and stall.
My car stalling when driving on motorway, cant go fast ! 😢
Sir wanted your advice
My engine has a vaccum leak
Which has increased my rpm and decreased milage
I have checked vaccum hoses all are ok
And my fuel mixture is also great
Means water is coming from my cylincer
Can you please tell me what other areas I must check
Because am not getting it
My air fuel mixture is perfect
And then a vaccum leak
Which has increased my idle and decreased milage too much
My 1 litre average was 18km
And now it's 4 km
I have been notisting my isuzu ascender been sweating water from the back pipe. And underneath. But when i take it to a mecanic he saids is normal. But i know is not. Then went for a computer test in about 3 places it diagnost a vacuum leak and catalyst issues. But this mecanics are very ignorant! Know i dont know where ti take in. They were not able to fix an antifreeze leak. They had cut my heater core hose and didn't tight it enough left it loose then my antifreeze was all over my hood. Some one tighten my clamp. But the leak i notist is underneath my reservoir container so im thinking it my have a crack underneath thr container. It leaks only when the truck reaches its temperature. I also have a powersteering leaking 😢 so expensive to get thid fixed 😢
Nvm you answered my question
Use a smoke detector. Easier than ever.
hi! Need your experitse help please!
When I drive my car it has no engine braking so when i release gas pedal it coasts to fast forward. Also when i acellarate I have to press gas pedal to hard while on my other car I can just tap the pedal and it goes. It seems as it has some pressure the car is fighting when acelarating while no pressure when i release gas pedal and it should be opposite.
Aynways I got no engine braking or very little what you think is the problem? Also the car exhaust sounds much quitter than other car and I get on cold start cloud of blue smoke on startup
Hello. The blue smoke at start up is caused by bad valve stem seal.
Is the check engine light on? Could be a lot of things. For example, bad accelerator pedal position sensor, clogged catalytic converter, bad tps, limp mode, bad transmission etc..
@@Top5AutoRepairs check engine light was on before and we replaced maf sensor and 02 sensor one time with salvaged one and now with new one. Mechanic said it might be the cat. Also noticed engine gets really warm on just short ride and exhuast seems kinda too quiet. Im thinking bad cat and valves. Cause when i raise rpm in idle and then take off car sounds and rides better for few meters like i clean exhuast fumes or get him some air for short time
Is this symptom on any mkae/model?@@Top5AutoRepairs