A 104 capacitor = 100nF not 10uF, just saying. 10+4 zeroes = 100 000pF or 100nF or 0.1uF, 105 = 1uF, 106 = 10uF & 107 = 100uF - I still enjoyed the video though.
Oh my days you're right, I had them on the desk in front of me and assumed they were the 10uF caps, so I just read the number to the camera without thinking about it... I have some caps to replace again 😅
Love the luck on this one. I hope to someday be able to do this as well as you. I am yet to fix a single board with a component level fault. It is much harder than you make it seem. You do have years of experience and it shows.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
In retrospect, in makes sense that it would be cap next to the USB port. That's where people jam in their drives and cables (over which they later stumble). So that's where the board would flex the most. Which might cause a brittle ceramic capacitor to crack internally.
7270 - the power surge on usb ports is a very common fault. I’ve probably had 50 in with that. Also had a few pop and let the smoke out from that power rail after sitting for a few years in my unit. They can also take up to 10 power cycles if the RTC isn’t set ( or post post from no bios bat)
Strange that something took out 3 caps and especially that huge chonker cap. I've heard of one blowing in a laptop but not usually more than that unless the laptop got hit by a lightning strike.
Z5U capacitors (which very small, high capacitance MLCC often are) are very voltage dependent and have only a fraction of their capacitance when run near rated voltage....
Because this laptop looks well used, I think this laptop fell once too often or was transported a lot in a backpack and experienced bending. Im working in the automotive industry (motorsports to be precise) and I see these caps crack all the time. And when they crack, they usually short. We avoid catastropic damage because of a shorted cap by always putting 2 in series and arranging them with one of them 90° rotated relative to the other one. If mechanical stress will happen to the PCB it will most likely only crack only 1 of them. Because mechanical stress and impacts usually concern one axis. The other cap will then prevent the short from becoming a problem. Why the SSD died? No clue. Maybe due to the same impact.
If one were to connect the guard trace/chassis ground and the switcher's ground, one runs the risk of (partial) switching currents travelling trough the chassis.
for the usb port I had kinda the same problem. voltage regulators were dead and I pulled them out. I couldn't find the part so I just connected the input to the output, it works but it is risky. I should be careful not to accidentally short the power pins on the port
Nice work there mate. Those smds are tricky little buggers, always guaranteed to get me swearing. On a side note those Unit-t meters are a very decent budget device, I was pleasantly surprised how functional they are.
The moral of the story? Always do regular backups of your data. If you can, three copies. One on SSD, one on mechanical, and a third copy kept in a different location.
I would imagine something was plugged into that USB port and it caused the damage. it was maybe doing data transfer to or from the SSD and something bad happened.
@@menotyou8369 Not to protect Rossmann but I'm just wondering if I could put a PC-3000 Portable Pro (which is the most professional tool on the market ATM) on the desk in front of you, can you repair that SSD with it? Because a professional data recovery tool is just a must have starting point for the rougher cases, but also you have to know what is it for and how to use it: the actual data recovery technician's knowledge is the added value which really determines the outcoming. If the tech can't distinguish a firmware issue from a hardware fault then he's professionism is probably not the data recovery but the Dunning-Kruger effect. PC-3000 is for firmware modifications, but you can't repair a blown hardware component by software, so you don't need PC-3000 to find a shorted capacitor (or PMIC), which probably the culprit is. 🙂
The UT61E I've been using is everyone's darling at the moment, and I can see why - it's great. Fluke are a top-brand, make no mistake, but you're paying through the nose for the name. They're not really worth the money unless you're in mission-critical situations where everything must be documented, verified, calibrated, and serviceable.
@@Adamant_IT You also pay for the long-term availability. If you're a large organisation (e.g. the military or a big corporation), and all your test procedures and documentation is tailored to a specific meter, then you want to be able to purchase those exact meters for a long time. If you go to Aneng or Uni-T and tell them you'd like another batch of those DMMs from 8 years ago, they'll tell you: "Sorry, we discontinued that product 6 years ago." And then what do you do? Replace every meter (even the good ones) and adjust all procedures and rewrite all your documentation? OTOH, a fluke meter will be on the market for a loooong time. And yes, it costs a bunch of money for Fluke to make sure they can deliver on that implicit promise. Cost which they then pass on to you. But for those types of customers, it might be the cheaper option compared to the alternative. But if you're a hobbyist or small repair shop, you probably don't need that and would simply be wasting your money.
This is not related to the video but please reply. How far from the workpieces is the objective of your microscope and how do you clean the lens? Thanks so much ..
I'm currently using a Tomlov 4k and the working distance is about 14cm. This scope gives a fairly decent clearance. I also use a PLDaniels ring light that's extra low-profile and doesn't get in the way as much.
Do you think the power supply may have had a momentary surge? Also, when you unplugged the power supply, then got a "power surge on a USB port" message, then shut it down, should you discharge any residual power in the laptop before doing any more tests?
The most likely thing is that one of the caps failed, causing a short that created a surge. But the other failure points were on separate rails, so eh, I'm not sure. As for discharging, it doesn't really matter much. Charged/empty capacitors will change the exact ohms reading you get on that power rail, but we're not looking for exact numbers, mostly just 'High' or 'Short/low'. The meter itself puts some power into the board, which is why the readings often climb as you look - charging capacitors will show an increasing resistance.
Is it just from experience that you knew that board had nothing on the other side to check? Cause if it was me, with no experience in board repair, I would have been "oh shit, how messed up is the other side?" lol
More so that I took of caps and the short disappeared. If there was liquid damage or anything, then the board definitely has to come out - but in this instance, that fault was resolved, so there was no real need to check the back.
@@Adamant_IT Okay cool. So, something that looks like it took a lot of heat, wouldn't transfer from the other side. Just liquid damage. Got it. Thanks. Guess that makes sense because you use a lot of heat on the air station without worrying about anything blowing/melting on the other side.
Naa, the USB killer aims to dump power into the Data lines of the USB port, which would kill the USB controller (if successful), not power rails. Hard to tell what caused this... it seems like some kind of cascade failure (where one thing causes another to fail) but the USB port capacitor, the main rail caps, and the SSD are all on separate power rails without much in common, so not much to go on there.
No bypass cap on USB port = USB port voltage sags when you plug in a backup hard drive that suddenly spins up at 500ma... Replace capacitors, people, they are actually there for reasons!
SSD super dead... as in, no data, or as in, not even recognized? Because if it's as in "no data", given the boot bios password, it could very much be that the SSD is still all good, just bios encrypted.
@@Adamant_IT Aw shit. Yeah sounds like a dud. Just wanted to make sure, because one would obviously label "dead" a drive (SSD or HDD) that has a habit to just dropping partition, and it would have been near impossible to differentiate an encrypted SSD from one that lost its marbles/wiped itself and dropped its on-chip mapping data. Given the boot password, it's very likely that it was encrypted... and yeah, it's an coin-toss whether the key would be on the motherboard or the dead SSD controller, so even reading the raw flash with a new controller would be still the start of a whole quest.
A 104 capacitor = 100nF not 10uF, just saying. 10+4 zeroes = 100 000pF or 100nF or 0.1uF, 105 = 1uF, 106 = 10uF & 107 = 100uF - I still enjoyed the video though.
Oh my days you're right, I had them on the desk in front of me and assumed they were the 10uF caps, so I just read the number to the camera without thinking about it... I have some caps to replace again 😅
@@Adamant_IT Nah, she'll be fine.
@Adamant_IT , Say Hello! to my little friend. Sorin would replace in a 2nd video.
@lorsheckmolseh3345 also sorin says no capacitor no shorted capacitor 😊
You will probably find another bad cap on failed SSD - test your luck
Love the luck on this one. I hope to someday be able to do this as well as you. I am yet to fix a single board with a component level fault. It is much harder than you make it seem. You do have years of experience and it shows.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
This was very enjoyable to watch. Your wealth of experience makes it seem easy. Keep the awesome content coming
If the battery is full you will not get the light on the front . I have a Dell vostro and it does the same thing
Amazing job. Thank you for the class.
Nice job Graham. People like you need luck from time to time, and a customer sometimes needs it. Thanks for sharing, Nico.
you can use 138C liquid solder paste for cleaning pads, thank you.
In retrospect, in makes sense that it would be cap next to the USB port. That's where people jam in their drives and cables (over which they later stumble). So that's where the board would flex the most. Which might cause a brittle ceramic capacitor to crack internally.
7270 - the power surge on usb ports is a very common fault. I’ve probably had 50 in with that. Also had a few pop and let the smoke out from that power rail after sitting for a few years in my unit. They can also take up to 10 power cycles if the RTC isn’t set ( or post post from no bios bat)
FUN! Nice change of pace lately from no power videos, Although I do like a dairy diagnosis and repair occasionally :)
Thank you for another educational and informative video.💡
The confused look at the end was just priceless!
Strange that something took out 3 caps and especially that huge chonker cap. I've heard of one blowing in a laptop but not usually more than that unless the laptop got hit by a lightning strike.
Z5U capacitors (which very small, high capacitance MLCC often are) are very voltage dependent and have only a fraction of their capacitance when run near rated voltage....
Because this laptop looks well used, I think this laptop fell once too often or was transported a lot in a backpack and experienced bending.
Im working in the automotive industry (motorsports to be precise) and I see these caps crack all the time. And when they crack, they usually short.
We avoid catastropic damage because of a shorted cap by always putting 2 in series and arranging them with one of them 90° rotated relative to the other one. If mechanical stress will happen to the PCB it will most likely only crack only 1 of them. Because mechanical stress and impacts usually concern one axis. The other cap will then prevent the short from becoming a problem.
Why the SSD died? No clue. Maybe due to the same impact.
As Gary Palmer said, "The more I practice the luckier I get."
Gary Player
19:00 Fan could do with a clean out!
I really enjoyed this one, yet again I've learned something new.
If it was an m.2 SSD, try another caddy, as not all caddies are equal!
So true, always keep a few different ones and connect to different usb ports too
😂😂
Would love to know what caused all of this but weirdly only took out capacitors and not anything else (aside from the SSD you mentioned).
If one were to connect the guard trace/chassis ground and the switcher's ground, one runs the risk of (partial) switching currents travelling trough the chassis.
for the usb port I had kinda the same problem. voltage regulators were dead and I pulled them out. I couldn't find the part so I just connected the input to the output, it works but it is risky. I should be careful not to accidentally short the power pins on the port
Great dignosis! Superb! Thanks for the insight!
Nice work there mate. Those smds are tricky little buggers, always guaranteed to get me swearing. On a side note those Unit-t meters are a very decent budget device, I was pleasantly surprised how functional they are.
It's changed days isn't it, used to be you got cheap meters and good meters but not both. Nowadays there's a lot of options.
The Uni-T has been fantastic... I love cheap meters (
The moral of the story? Always do regular backups of your data. If you can, three copies. One on SSD, one on mechanical, and a third copy kept in a different location.
Absolutely right but if you do the backups like this it will ever be needed !
Preferably the third is also on a different medium that lasts a long time in cold storage such as a disc or tape.
Another fun video, many thanks.
So what do you have when you have a Dell Latitude that doesn't want to be fixed?? A Bad Latitude Problem😁😁😁..... (taxi for Paul...😒).
I would imagine something was plugged into that USB port and it caused the damage. it was maybe doing data transfer to or from the SSD and something bad happened.
The data on the old SSD can be saved. Louis Rossmann knows how to recover data from dead SSDs.
Yeah, everyone does, you just need 10 grand worth of equipment.
@@menotyou8369 Not to protect Rossmann but I'm just wondering if I could put a PC-3000 Portable Pro (which is the most professional tool on the market ATM) on the desk in front of you, can you repair that SSD with it? Because a professional data recovery tool is just a must have starting point for the rougher cases, but also you have to know what is it for and how to use it: the actual data recovery technician's knowledge is the added value which really determines the outcoming. If the tech can't distinguish a firmware issue from a hardware fault then he's professionism is probably not the data recovery but the Dunning-Kruger effect. PC-3000 is for firmware modifications, but you can't repair a blown hardware component by software, so you don't need PC-3000 to find a shorted capacitor (or PMIC), which probably the culprit is. 🙂
That was HPs' secret time clock.🤔
Great fault finding with a bit of luck, nice one!
I've never touched a soldering iron but after this video, I'm tempted to try and fix an old laptop that's not working. 😊
These Latitudes are nice, great fault finding Graham!
I would check the customers M.2 SSD for a dead cap - might be able to recue their data.
Lazy technicians in my office don't work twice as hard, they just leave the work for me to do.
Good job Graham that fan was pretty dusty to but hey its going ok
wow and peace be upon you sir from me
Do you recommend Uni-t multimeter for professional repair or Fluke brand?
The UT61E I've been using is everyone's darling at the moment, and I can see why - it's great.
Fluke are a top-brand, make no mistake, but you're paying through the nose for the name. They're not really worth the money unless you're in mission-critical situations where everything must be documented, verified, calibrated, and serviceable.
@@Adamant_IT You also pay for the long-term availability. If you're a large organisation (e.g. the military or a big corporation), and all your test procedures and documentation is tailored to a specific meter, then you want to be able to purchase those exact meters for a long time. If you go to Aneng or Uni-T and tell them you'd like another batch of those DMMs from 8 years ago, they'll tell you: "Sorry, we discontinued that product 6 years ago." And then what do you do? Replace every meter (even the good ones) and adjust all procedures and rewrite all your documentation? OTOH, a fluke meter will be on the market for a loooong time. And yes, it costs a bunch of money for Fluke to make sure they can deliver on that implicit promise. Cost which they then pass on to you. But for those types of customers, it might be the cheaper option compared to the alternative.
But if you're a hobbyist or small repair shop, you probably don't need that and would simply be wasting your money.
Wow, that was a good and lucky one! Congrats!! 😅❤
thank you 🤙
Welcome back Grayham...are you feeling much better now....
A very interesting one again thanks.
with that amount of capacitors taken out lucky it didn't take the whole Mb
Luck has nothing to do with this...your just good!
Nice fix
This is not related to the video but please reply. How far from the workpieces is the objective of your microscope and how do you clean the lens? Thanks so much ..
I'm currently using a Tomlov 4k and the working distance is about 14cm. This scope gives a fairly decent clearance. I also use a PLDaniels ring light that's extra low-profile and doesn't get in the way as much.
@Adamant_IT I'm grateful for this reply, thanks so much. I'm continuously being enlightened by your videos, thanks for that also ...
Do you think the power supply may have had a momentary surge? Also, when you unplugged the power supply, then got a "power surge on a USB port" message, then shut it down, should you discharge any residual power in the laptop before doing any more tests?
The most likely thing is that one of the caps failed, causing a short that created a surge. But the other failure points were on separate rails, so eh, I'm not sure.
As for discharging, it doesn't really matter much. Charged/empty capacitors will change the exact ohms reading you get on that power rail, but we're not looking for exact numbers, mostly just 'High' or 'Short/low'. The meter itself puts some power into the board, which is why the readings often climb as you look - charging capacitors will show an increasing resistance.
@@Adamant_IT interesting! Thank you
2in1, so nice! :)
Thanks for the video
Wonder what caused that.
Some days are just easier than others LOL
Could the short on the power rail have destroyed the customer’s SSD?
Is it just from experience that you knew that board had nothing on the other side to check? Cause if it was me, with no experience in board repair, I would have been "oh shit, how messed up is the other side?" lol
More so that I took of caps and the short disappeared. If there was liquid damage or anything, then the board definitely has to come out - but in this instance, that fault was resolved, so there was no real need to check the back.
@@Adamant_IT Okay cool. So, something that looks like it took a lot of heat, wouldn't transfer from the other side. Just liquid damage. Got it. Thanks. Guess that makes sense because you use a lot of heat on the air station without worrying about anything blowing/melting on the other side.
"A nice, quick, easy one."
*Looks at video play time* - nope, you clearly did jinx yourself by saying that!
Why you did dat?
New to the channel, what is your thought that someone stuck a USB Killer into that port and took out those Cap's? Just a thought...
Naa, the USB killer aims to dump power into the Data lines of the USB port, which would kill the USB controller (if successful), not power rails. Hard to tell what caused this... it seems like some kind of cascade failure (where one thing causes another to fail) but the USB port capacitor, the main rail caps, and the SSD are all on separate power rails without much in common, so not much to go on there.
@@Adamant_IT Interesting... The only other thing would be a power surge.
Good Job :)
I assume you put 106 on there, as that's 10µf ;-)
Luck to the power of luck.
You should definitely give yourself more credit. No schematic and good diagnostics. Well done.
Comprá una c210 y dejá de sufrir para soldar!!!!
No te vas a arrepentir...
Seconded my friend
No capacitor = no shorted capacitor
No bypass cap on USB port = USB port voltage sags when you plug in a backup hard drive that suddenly spins up at 500ma...
Replace capacitors, people, they are actually there for reasons!
Sorin will fall off his chair 😂
SSD super dead... as in, no data, or as in, not even recognized?
Because if it's as in "no data", given the boot bios password, it could very much be that the SSD is still all good, just bios encrypted.
It's not recognised as a device when plugged in, looks like the controller is cactus.
@@Adamant_IT Aw shit.
Yeah sounds like a dud.
Just wanted to make sure, because one would obviously label "dead" a drive (SSD or HDD) that has a habit to just dropping partition, and it would have been near impossible to differentiate an encrypted SSD from one that lost its marbles/wiped itself and dropped its on-chip mapping data.
Given the boot password, it's very likely that it was encrypted... and yeah, it's an coin-toss whether the key would be on the motherboard or the dead SSD controller, so even reading the raw flash with a new controller would be still the start of a whole quest.
HI Graham, thank for sharing you experience hope to be lucky as you sime time normaly only wrost job, bye Francesco Timpano from Florence Italy
Good job.....
Luck... nice!
USB 2.0 = 500ma; USB 3.0 = 1.0A
That’s like the bare minimum. Plenty of PCs can supply more that over USB.
Can you get through 30 seconds without saying SO the MOST annoying verbal tic ever SO stop it
This actually annoys me as well, one day I'll break the habit...
@@Adamant_IT some of us would like you to continue as it helps us follow along ...
fu