When talking about front control arm angles you reference these recommendations "at ride height." Are you referring to static ride height or dynamic ride height?
awesome videos! one thing i've done with my modified was tighten it up more then normal, then i would compensate the tightness of the car on the track with my driving so i could benefit coming out of the corners with more drive/traction.
I like to start with the rear end square in the car and tune from there. I used radius rod measurements and a RR ride height. I never had a place to actually square from.
The mods I worked on with Chevelle lowers, the split was the same on both sides. ½ in up and ½ in down. We used the same direction though, one up and one down. This was all done with driver weight. Thanks for watching.
When talking about front control arm angles you reference these recommendations "at ride height." Are you referring to static ride height or dynamic ride height?
These are from a static ride height position and I usually see about 3 to 3 ½ inches of travel.
awesome videos!
one thing i've done with my modified was tighten it up more then normal, then i would compensate the tightness of the car on the track with my driving so i could benefit coming out of the corners with more drive/traction.
As long as you can drive it, good thinking. Thanks for watching.
Do you start with your rear end square in the car or with rr back some. How do you measure for square rear end?
I like to start with the rear end square in the car and tune from there. I used radius rod measurements and a RR ride height. I never had a place to actually square from.
Are your ft lower control arm measurements with drivers wgt in or out? Would you suggest using the same theory on a ump mod?
The mods I worked on with Chevelle lowers, the split was the same on both sides. ½ in up and ½ in down. We used the same direction though, one up and one down. This was all done with driver weight. Thanks for watching.