Oh I totally forgot that Integra is called RSX in the overseas... I was like "you mean NSX" but then I remembered lulmao nice colour Welcome to the channel! I don't have much. I try to be quick but usually fail :3
I did a mini-run on the ‘Ring with the Sutea Miata and yea, this thing has so much grip you can handle corners at ease, even at 65% throttle in some of them. I haven’t drove the normal ND Miata yet but as far as I know, it’s a good car. A bit baffled that the Sutea is A class maxed while the normal ND Miata is S class maxed
Yes that's why I didn't put normal dealership Roadster in A class opponents... but maybe I should have just for comparison. It is a very nice grip machine though. Have to use the grip to compensate for the lack of power.
@@pricklypear300 hmm, i agreed with that, i recently bought an r33 gt-r from dealership, and, ATTESA makes the car RWD, wtf? And also, if to turn on only Fuse, it will be pretty much an understeer evo.
@@turboDream228 ATTESA is a RWD just with additional torque splitter that sends power to front wheels when there is rear wheel slip, and cuts it off when there is understeer... that's a simplified explanation. And plenty of times RB26 GT-Rs could be driven and powerslided just like RWDs if you drive them hard enough. The problem with AR's ATTESA is, is that it really doesn't want to be like RWD nor AWD and it does things the opposite. It is great for grip driving... in unmodified state. But raise the power, even to the frugal "correct" level that simulates actual cars horsepower output(i.e. real R32 actually made around 300hp, which roughly translates to 373hp in this game's car. R34, it also made around 300+, but the game's car needs 415), and it doesn't know what to do. Try to drift it, and it spins or understeers with 50/50 chance for either of them. Try to grip drive out the exit of the corner, it powerslides : everything it does, it does exactly the opposite of what actual ATTESA is supposed to do. That is why I gave up on those things. If there is any serious weight transfer - which, for AR, there is really none - you might be able to do something with them. But no. You can't "fix" them.
@@pricklypear300 i hugely appreciate your writing, yeah, i experienced these with my r33 when i tried to do a time in touge (the old one) with S class mod series and, it's bad.
Just acquired this car a few minutes ago (I just uploaded a Short video on that), and I must ask: is ‘A class’ the highest it can get? I only fiddled around with it by adding stage 1 engine and a racing exhaust, and it’s already in -the lower range of- A class! And that was after test driving it STOCK at AR Official Raceway. Honestly kinda bummed that street tires are default, but that racing suspension from the factory made up for the lack of sports tires which I expect from a modern sports car.
It is not an import, you have to do daily "Sutea challenges" and win Sutea tokens to buy the car. You have 86 days left to get it, so you still have more than enough time, that's maybe 4 cars worth of coins you can earn. But you can only have Sutea Car.
Surprised its only A class, since it's faster than the dealership one, and that is S class. ND one is prone to lift off oversteer, but that is not the case for this car, the rear is as stable as it can be, to the point where you can go flat out in the touge hairpin section...well, you would be if the mid corner understeer wasn't a problem, which it is, so its not just your setup
I agree on most things but I was mentioning this feel of front feeling stiff and steering not doing anything. Which lasts not long, but for like maybe miliseconds at a time but keeps happening on crests and bumps? I didn't include the dealership Roadster because of its S class status but now that I think of it maybe I should have...
For me, yes. For other people, I cannot tell. It is a preference and I use it because the steering does not try to do things I did not intend to do... it gives more control over what's happening.
My rsx is pink too ! 😂 Greetings c:
You are very fast btw
Oh I totally forgot that Integra is called RSX in the overseas... I was like "you mean NSX" but then I remembered lulmao nice colour
Welcome to the channel! I don't have much. I try to be quick but usually fail :3
I did a mini-run on the ‘Ring with the Sutea Miata and yea, this thing has so much grip you can handle corners at ease, even at 65% throttle in some of them. I haven’t drove the normal ND Miata yet but as far as I know, it’s a good car. A bit baffled that the Sutea is A class maxed while the normal ND Miata is S class maxed
Yes that's why I didn't put normal dealership Roadster in A class opponents... but maybe I should have just for comparison.
It is a very nice grip machine though. Have to use the grip to compensate for the lack of power.
Just got this car today, so this review is nice to see. Plus, I also have a clip of getting my car tilted by that one hump on Forest Path.
lol I will check that out
I got so blindsided by that flip. I thought I was confident with the Inte R I cry
What car is better to buy for like realistic 90's sliding driving experience, the supra rz or r32? (Both dealership)
I would say Supra. Just because ATTESA on AR is a huge pile of mess.
@@pricklypear300 thx :)
@@pricklypear300 hmm, i agreed with that, i recently bought an r33 gt-r from dealership, and, ATTESA makes the car RWD, wtf? And also, if to turn on only Fuse, it will be pretty much an understeer evo.
@@turboDream228 ATTESA is a RWD just with additional torque splitter that sends power to front wheels when there is rear wheel slip, and cuts it off when there is understeer... that's a simplified explanation.
And plenty of times RB26 GT-Rs could be driven and powerslided just like RWDs if you drive them hard enough.
The problem with AR's ATTESA is, is that it really doesn't want to be like RWD nor AWD and it does things the opposite. It is great for grip driving... in unmodified state.
But raise the power, even to the frugal "correct" level that simulates actual cars horsepower output(i.e. real R32 actually made around 300hp, which roughly translates to 373hp in this game's car. R34, it also made around 300+, but the game's car needs 415), and it doesn't know what to do.
Try to drift it, and it spins or understeers with 50/50 chance for either of them. Try to grip drive out the exit of the corner, it powerslides : everything it does, it does exactly the opposite of what actual ATTESA is supposed to do. That is why I gave up on those things. If there is any serious weight transfer - which, for AR, there is really none - you might be able to do something with them. But no. You can't "fix" them.
@@pricklypear300 i hugely appreciate your writing, yeah, i experienced these with my r33 when i tried to do a time in touge (the old one) with S class mod series and, it's bad.
Just acquired this car a few minutes ago (I just uploaded a Short video on that), and I must ask: is ‘A class’ the highest it can get? I only fiddled around with it by adding stage 1 engine and a racing exhaust, and it’s already in -the lower range of- A class! And that was after test driving it STOCK at AR Official Raceway.
Honestly kinda bummed that street tires are default, but that racing suspension from the factory made up for the lack of sports tires which I expect from a modern sports car.
Surprisingly, yes. I suppose S Class cars were a bit too much for the Sutea Roadster's specs. I will check your vid out soon
Yo just got back to this game and found out about this car, is it an import? Can i still get it tho?
It is not an import, you have to do daily "Sutea challenges" and win Sutea tokens to buy the car. You have 86 days left to get it, so you still have more than enough time, that's maybe 4 cars worth of coins you can earn. But you can only have Sutea Car.
To be honest, the M1 Aerodynamics is comparable to a bricc.
I imagined that but didn't know the bricc energy would be this strong😵
Surprised its only A class, since it's faster than the dealership one, and that is S class. ND one is prone to lift off oversteer, but that is not the case for this car, the rear is as stable as it can be, to the point where you can go flat out in the touge hairpin section...well, you would be if the mid corner understeer wasn't a problem, which it is, so its not just your setup
I agree on most things but I was mentioning this feel of front feeling stiff and steering not doing anything. Which lasts not long, but for like maybe miliseconds at a time but keeps happening on crests and bumps?
I didn't include the dealership Roadster because of its S class status but now that I think of it maybe I should have...
does driving with zero assist make you faster?
For me, yes. For other people, I cannot tell. It is a preference and I use it because the steering does not try to do things I did not intend to do... it gives more control over what's happening.
@@pricklypear300 ohh thanks for the feedback
Wait wtf?! All this time it had 2.80 final drive?! No shit it so slow on straights in stock😂
Yup i think its not really meant for 129hp... 😭