Stiffen the frame more also, think of wind load. Bridges move and sway, the gussets help keep it together from flex the constant flex from load. You are also putting static load on it, so yes it moved into place okay, but you will want to keep your eye on what and where fails will happen.
Beat me to it I was going to say the same it won't take much rust to lock that up a little grease and some paint will go a long way to making this last a good long time
@@neon1929 the galvanized they have is done, and it's wire chase for panels, they'll just want to gusset and support once they fit the system. Put some good sized rocks on the downslope to back up your rods
We have completely buried them at our Camp Sites but we first covered the whole container with Tar to seal up any unseen cracks they may let moisture in. One has been in the ground since 1971 and still works fine.
If you are going to adjust your solar panels more than just "summer" and "winter", you could paint marks on your cable for every 10 degrees. That way if you want to adjust your angle you can just look up the ideal angle and move panels accordingly. It also allows 1 person to adjust array, you can just remove the bolts turn the winch to proper position and reinsert the bolts.
We have a container cut 8ft. Off made a storm cellar out of it gug down couple feet covered it with bout 8 feet of dirt been that way for 13 years never had any problems. Thanks for sharing great video have fun
With the weight hanging from one side of the container, my biggest concern would be a strong wind lifting up and sideways on the whole array and container and tipping it over toward the array. It seems that pre-measured posts to connect the bottom of the beams to cemented in ground mounts (one set of posts and ground mounts for each angle) would provide a support far enough outboard to absorb that rotational moment. I know the container is very heavy, and will be even heavier with the batteries in it, but that is one huge sail you are mounting on it. Alternately, you could run cables from the top corners of the container uphill to steel posts drilled and epoxied into the exposed tops of a couple boulders to keep the container from being able to tip, or do both to stabilize both the container and the sail.
Yah, I am DEFINITELY not a fan of the way they did that. The array should be, as you said, on its own posts piled into the grouind. This would also add support for keeping the container in place during heavy ran/landslide condition.
Ah well, it may just work. One thing that matters a lot is the local prevalent wind direction. I do agree though that this is a huge sail in storm conditions. A few storm tie-down points on the corners may be a good idea. And then, the container by itself - compared to this sail - is not heavy at all. I would consider putting a layer of concrete sidewalk tiles on the floor, not sure if these are a thing in the US. Hereabouts, these are dirt cheap and reassuringly heavy.
I totally agree the container in a any wind could roll over on its side of the array and you suggestion is a good one It would be the same idea as how the secure by layer retaining walls back into the hillside
Possibly to of welded steels plates ( 3 - 4 ) along the back wall then welded steel beams off of them at 90 degrees and a thick steel plate on those beams then back filled covering that so it had the soil / rocks weight to of held the container in place and acted as an ground anchor and counter weight of that steel frame and solar panels
Interesting idea. For the wall that is buried, a beam welded the length of the container halfway up would help prevent bowing. This is something that could be incorporated inside also, maybe as a shelf support. For the winch, add a snatch block at the bottom of the container to run the cable through. This will allow the solar assembly to be pulled more vertically rather than horizontally. This will reduce strain on the winch, the container wall, and the assembly.
Throughout all the episodes I was always impressed by the deep consideration and planning. I understand the time crunch but when you started this project I felt you started cutting too many corners. My biggest concern is that there is no foundation for the container. Yes, batteries and everything in the container will add weight but it would have been prudent to place the container on solid corner foundations and weld the container to the foundation. You can still drill some holes and pour concrete in the front to bury steel beams vertically that will support the container. Otherwise when you will have high winds and solar panel sails you will have the container moving. I like the hinged idea but please consider reinforcement of the wall, maybe from the inside where the hinges line up. One more corner cutting I saw when you welded the HF winch to the wall. These container walls are not that sturdy having all the forces on this one point of contact. You pinned the extending struts on the top but still this wrench will need also reinforcement from inside. Also the extending struts will need reinforcement on the wall. Containers leak from the bottom up when you bury them. Luckily you "did not bury" them but it would have been better to have drain channels underneath towards the downhill side. Sorry for this, I usually refrain from commenting as its always easy from the comfort of the home office to see details. But I felt compelled to do this as you always impressed me with your attention to the level of detail. I just build a 45 ft car port of a container and can attest that these are not that sturdy to bending forces. Keep up the good work! I love your channel and your 'off grid way of life'. Cant wait for the dozer work.
Well.. as there's freeze where they are, the frozing of soil will make the whole soil/hill expand behind the container.. he will end up pushed downhill one day or an other.. those little rods won't hold it there.. oh and if they would, the wall would cave in slowly.. benting in.. until weld fails.. it is what it is.. the fact there's no foundation will only help it glide toward the downhill portion.. might save the container from being damaged.. we'll see with the years passing by
I see that everyone who applauds their foolish plan gets a like from the people who are doing this, while this really smart (and somewhat obvious) criticism is studiously ignored. Smart people welcome insightful criticism. It's helpful. Everyone makes mistakes and nobody knows all the answers. But these people are just dimwits. "What colour should we paint the container?" The colour is the LEAST of your worries.
@Josey Wilds - said "...Yeah no one cares let them build their coffin....." Fcuk me mate, that was a bit harsh!!!!! No less a funny comment though ;) :)
To square large/long things use the 345 Triangle. From the same point measure 3' one direction then 4' 90⁰ from it. That's 2 legs of a triangle. The long leg between it would be 5', hence the 345 Triangle which ends up with legs 90⁰ to each other. So it works in multiples if you have for example a large deck or frame 6,8,10 for example
Camo out the container and panel supports in a pattern that will match the surrounding forrest. Great job on the build. Drill the pivots the install grease fittings for long term ease of movement. 1/4-28 tap for threads. Use your jack hammer to install the pins in the ground.
Sgm retire have used many conexs for storage. Remember the hold heart and need ventilation. Also the steel holds the cold. Neither are good for batteries. Barring the conex may help. Insulation and ventilation may help.
The conex needs to be off the ground (railroad ties) and your perf pipe needed to be bedded in Gravel with landscape fabric covering it with more Gravel on top. A retaining wall for the hillside is a must as well. Shipping containers have all their strength at the corners. The skin isn't structural
We buried shipping containers in the desert in Aghanistan and Iraq all through the deployments, we also buried them to simulate underground bunkers. They just need to look up that info.
I too was going to point out a few things myself: 1 They should have cut back into the hillside and poured a concrete pad and drilled into it to anchor the container. 2 Any drainage pipe should be covered with landscaping cloth to keep dirt out then small gravel with a layer of sand on top that. 3 Was the bottom of the container rust proofed like the buried portion? If not it should have been. 4 I think the wiring for the panels probably should have been routed through the channels to cut down on extra work although I don't know what they have in mind, they may be going to run the wires through some kind of conduit to protect the wiring from the weather. These ideas aren't meant as criticism but rather just my opinion on how I would have approached this. Do it your way or as some of how others would. He said he would be happy to get 10 to 15 years out of the installation. Me I'd rather shoot for 25 to 50.
French drains should be wrapped in cloth to keep them clear of dirt. Some also use about a foot diameter of clean gravel around the pipes which is Also wrapped in ground cloth. So first the cloth lines the trench then a. Couple of inches of washed gravel
Great job guys! I would be very careful moving that high pressure gas bottle around without the cap installed. Especially laying on its side. If it had rolled out of the cart and broken the valve off, you would be surprised at how far the missile could travel.
@@chrisforgan731 Saw it happen during shop class back in high school. oxygen cylinder was knocked over breaking off the valve, the cyl went through a block wall, traveled over 100 yards and buried itself in our garden plot. Unbelievable how much dust and dirt was in the shop, the rocket blasting off exposed all of it!
It amazes me what vast knowledge different people have and the work they have done in their lives!! I know how to teach others how to sing/perform/how to speak in front of a crowd… but what you all do and what your viewers know👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻😃
I used a simple water level to get my solar array grid laid out.. With the top line of posts level, the bottom line of posts level, and a fixed distance between rows, it all came out perfectly planar. My water level cost me under $5. It's a bit surprising, but adjusting the angle four times per year is just barely better than adjusting it twice per year. When to adjust it you ask? Vernal and autumnal equinoxes. AKA 3/22 and 9/22. Or on the 21st. It's a leap year thing. Of course, yours is so easy to adjust you could add a simple shadow indicator and adjust that winch every day at noon. Do you ever get wind coming down the slope? If so, I would dig some holes a few yards downslope from the container corners, pour in some concrete footings with a steel piece sticking out the top. Then weld a steel beam from both end corners to the steel pieces on the footings. This would make it MUCH more resistant to flipping over in wind or slipping away from the buried edge.
The main reason the holes go down is because water will gather at the bottom of the pipe first. If you installed with the holes up then the ditch would need to flood to the top of the pipe before the water would drain. Water chooses the path of least resistance so with the holes down the water will find them easier and can be managed away from the container faster. Something to consider, if it's not too late, is to coat the outside with some sort of undercoating, preferably the spray kind. You won't necessarily need truck bed spray liner but it would last far longer than regular undercoating. The longer you can keep the steel from rusting the longer you container will remain under ground...
great video thank you! the holes face down on drain pipe for at least two reasons. one is the dirt is less likely to get inside the pipe with the holes down. facing the holes down also allows the water to enter the pipe at a lower level than it would if the holes were facing up. the drain pipe is not supposed to catch water as it comes down it's supposed to allow water to flow out as the water table rises up from Below.
The main concern I have would be the side load during the winter and especially during spring thaw. The added weight of the snow/water could trigger a side collapse or could result in the entire container and array sliding down off of the cut you made. I'd recommend that you look at not only shielding the top of the container, but also look into some way to divert run off to mitigate the potential problem.
I have been binging on your channel. Great video! I have had good luck driving pins in rocky soil using a Bosch electric jack hammer. I assume someone makes this tool, but I couldn't find one at the time I needed it, so I made it. One end fits the chuck of the jack hammer, the other goes over the end of the pin. I have driven Nmbr 8 rebar (1" diameter) using this method. It won't go through a really big rock, but it will pound through smaller rock like you placed for your base. Be well & Best regards!
Loved the shot of Boone and Bailey sleeping in the back of the car. 🥰 My understanding of weathering steel (COR-TEN) is that it requires the alternating wet/dry cycle to form the resistant barrier. Burying it eliminates the cycle and it ends up rusting "normally." I'd have used a thicker mastic-type coating rather than the paint and done something to protect the coating before backfilling to reduce scratches from penetrating the coating. Another thought would have been to put stone and drainage under the container to help with things drying out.
Usually it’s considered dangerous to bury shipping containers because they aren’t built to handle side loads and are really only designed to handle loads along the rim of their ceilings and on their floors. It’s very possible that after some time the walls cave in because of the weight of the dirt pushing into the side. Especially with extra weight like water/snow/frost.
They should be OK unless there is a LOT of traffic uphill from the container shifting the dirt and rocks downhill. One way to build a stable retaining wall is with a metal mesh cage filled with large stones called a gabion wall. The way the rocks were laid along the side might act as an unboxed gabion wall. If there are no shape rock points shifting into the container I think it will be fine.
@@walterrutherford8321 It won't be fine or safe, these containers aren't designed to take side or top loads. There is an online video showing examples of containers buried without proper re-enforcement, it's clear what happens with only a few inches of dirt on top, never mind when it gets wet.
@MrCleitus en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabion Jagged rocks don't settle and shift like loose soil. Without serious side forces, the rocks won't move. Any side forces now will be from landslides which, on that hillside, will be a possible hazard, whether the container is buried or not. But, the true test will be to check with them in 3-5yrs.
You are right & also I want to know that why all container homes made by people are not touched with ground (I mean 100% touched {not only corners}) I think it will decrease the strength of a container when it is not touched with ground.
I saw a video of a couple in New Mexico that buried 2 containers side by side to be their home. I couldn't tell you the name of it. It's been about 6 or 7 years ago that I watched it. It's looking good there.
Power supply taking shape nicely! Might want to stack large rock beside the container's downhill side do that the fill on the uphill side doesn't push it sideways. Get more telescoping square tubing on the 4 corners of the array panel so it's much more rigid in the storms. You'll want that for the winter snow loading also. I know that you've got more welding and other work to do for this project, but great so far!
Please wear safety glasses when driving those steel pins in the rock one chip off of that in the eye and it'll ruin your whole summer . Also, if you had a hammer drill to drill a hole before you put the pins in the rock doesn't stand a chance. Stay well, stay safe
If you want your french drain not to plug up, you gotta put some landscape fabric around it to keep mud from infiltrating. Or you can clean out the pipe periodically, which should be easy in your circumstance with the exposed straight ends. Also, rust is more complicated than you might expect. Things rust when exposed to both water and air, and how fast they rust isn't something you can easily guess just by looking. Not all water is the same, and some kinds of it lead to more rust than others.
In my last Germany assignment we used containers as air raid shelters and section offices. We put the containers up on un mortared rock to provide drainage. Then we went all army on them and made an outer wall of sand bags. Then we covered the bags with cement. and an outside of dirt. Water will soak in and turn the cement hard. When we got done we had wiring and furniture and it was very comfortable.
Watching you guys is great! Riley your mind is the part I enjoy and Together you two compliment each other so much. Love your can do positive energy. All I wish is there were more videos 😂I know it’s too time consuming. Enjoy!
You can straighten steel lenghts by heating the bend to red hot then rapid cooling it with water, the movements are slow but normally 3 or 4 heat cycles for a 1/2 inch bend
I love that you guys are prepared to discover a mistake years from now. I have a bunch of firsts on my off grid property that you just can’t find in RUclips University. Like you I figure you give your best thought and effort and hope it works. I have designed tilting panels raised off the roof of our barn to cater from snow depth. We had the barn structure engineered to withstand massive forces from snow, panel framing weight, lateral and updraft wind lift from the panels. This allowed us to have the panels out of main view like you guys have. Most say it wont work but the engineers signed it off so we are giving it a go! My water collection design was a first for the company that installed it so we’ll be watching that and expect some modifications also. Many have said I should be YouTubing my project but I know the effort that takes and what I’m most impressed about you guys is the effort you put in to document every project. I just could not find the time of effort to so that! Very impressive!
Just a little techy idea. I have a 12 vdc reversible ATV style winch I use to raise and lower my ham radio tower and it has a remote fob. It might even reach from your house and you could adjust the panel angle remotely for max output
I hope you guys are aware that welding galvanized steel releases some REALLY dangerous fumes. A little late for the episode but something to remember next time
About your bent beam, sometimes they just come like that, and they’ll even have a little bit of variation in dimensions and sometimes the web is twisted so one side of the flange will be a different width than the other, and when you drill holes in the web of a beam you don’t want to be within a foot of a support and go with the 1/3rd rule, 1/3 the flange width max hole and stay in the middle 1/3 rd of the flange for optimal usage of the beam, or just overbuild to accommodate. Either way love the build, I’m actually building a shipping container house now for work
I have that same welder, (multimatic 220 multi-process) it’s amazing being versatile. Welding tip get Lincoln “inner-shield” flux core wire then no need to tow gas bottle around, only down fall is spool size is either 5lb or 60lb spools unless you can find the 20-30 lb spools to fit in your machine. My wife and I love the show, keep up the great content!
Miller is a great little machine. Good choice. I’m impressed with y’all’s ambitions and team work. A man and a woman can do anything as a team. My wife has proven this to me many times. She is awesome. Good luck to you both.
I would paint the container to match your building. Have you considered an anchor system? I would put some big rocks in the front after you paint the container.
Awesome solution. Covers the roof, always under tension so no springs needed for adjusting, and uses off the shelf standard hardware making it more affordable. Seeing as the back of the solar panels collect light the color should have highest reflective quality to reflect sunlight, so a very light color like white or silver. From an aesthetics perspective green or brown, from an energy efficiency perspective white.
What you’ve done👍👍 The only question I have to ask is could u add some of that stuff they spray under vehicles on the sides to have kept rust on metal and water proof?
It was all great. Love it! The only thing is saw that was concerning was the thickness of your drainage pipe. Too thin of a schedule pipe for the load without a bedding for protection. Im confident it crushed with the first rock. The good news is with the grades in the area, standing water wont be a concern. Ive worked dirt for 50+ yrs.
I probably missed a lot of videos of why you had to bury a container, for solar storage. I am curious why you had to bury that container, and I applaud you for putting in the drains! Most people would not think ahead about drainage, you DID!
Agree we live where there is a lot of clay and everything moves when it’s rainy season we put everything on pads raised above the ground with French drains around every side 30 years later no mold or moisture in any building
Running the drain below the bottom of the container should help. Also, leaving some of the down side material or filling the down side, before filling the hill side would help with movement.
Yeah that container is definitely going to shift,a concrete pad should have been done for the container to sit on,then you can fasten the container to the slab. Plus that pvc pipe drain will not last under all that weight,pvc pipe is not designed for those types of forces,you should have used polyethylene pipe that has drainage slits cut into it and is designed for load stresses. Hope it works out for you guys ,but i can foresee problems with that sea container.
Have you considered what the load will be on those hinges with the solar panels attached to the frame when you experience heavy winds? It will be like a large sail. You may want to consider some method of strapping the whole thing down when severe weather is predicted. I would also think about renting a rock drill to plant some some deeper and greater diameter pilings (perhaps concrete with some rebar) to hold the container in place. I would be concerned that that solar panel sail may exert enough force to flip the container on its side, with catastrophic results.
You have plenty of input and suggestions regarding your work, I don't think you need any more. Without a doubt, one of my favorite episodes. Riley's brilliant engineering mind and Courtney's continued support, welding skills, excavator skills, editing skills and... You guys are fire!
Hole saw tip as soon as your saw touchs your work, you have the circle scribed. Take and drill and drill two holes the width of the kerf about 180 degrees apart threw the steel. This relieves the chips alot faster with less effort.
Paint the container blaze orange. With the burried hillside on the opposite side of that cliff, and the weight / forces of that solar setup on the cliff side, making it blaze orange could make it easier to find when it slides down ... :)
when drilling with a hole saw in metal, cut a piece of sponge and insert inside the saw. put oil in the sponge to lubricate and help cool the saw. Great vids!!
My neighbor buried one and concreted it over. They use it for storage. Be careful with the mold that might build up. After a few years they had a serious mold problem. Other than that it's still in use today.
Brilliant flexible/pivoting solar array framing system, though I'd be concerned about your solar array (once the panels are installed) turning into a sail in strong winds. Also, your container is probably at some point going to take some side damage from a lateral load, most likely from water, I would imagine (think rapid snow melt or really heavy rains). Your drain may not be able to keep up. The reason you shouldn't bury shipping containers is they're not designed to take lateral loads, they're designed to take vertical loads, but I'm sure you know this already. If burying one, you should really reinforce the interior walls with some framing
Need to build a cart trailer to hold all your welding gear and materials needed for projects and keep that tank upright. That will make all future projects so much easier since everything will be together. You can back it in the shop when not using it outside. If you are only moving the solar panel rack twice a year, might consider some rachet straps for extra support for the wind that will try and move the whole panel system. I think 2 on top and 2 on bottom should do the trick. Cheap and easy too.
I've been off grid for 3 years, what I've found is even with the panels optimised for winter Sun (UK 🇬🇧) we have excess power in the summer, it's feast or famine.
Spray paint marks on your cables and supports for summer (yellow) and winter(blue) to reduce the guesswork. You could take it a step further and adjust it 30/31 days. You would need six colors or marks to mark the progressions between summer and winter solstices. If it gets too top-heavy, use the hole saw and cut 3" disks out of the top, spacing the holes out like an aircraft spar. Then add the disks to the bottom. Each 3" disk should be 3/4 to 1 lb.
I've read articles about burying containers that said they will crush under the weight of the fill. There were pictures of them with the walls caving in. It was different though in that they were actually buried completely. I think some plastic sheeting over the top of the fill going back into the hill side covered over with a few inches or a foot or so would keep water from even getting behind the container to begin with.
Ralston Oklahoma has a single school building that held elementary thru highschool. The school at the time only had middle school attending it but the state is know for tornados and the kids didn't have a good Storm shelter. So we buried a conex container under ground. After closing off any openings that could allow water in. Then we installed under ground electric, attached some vent pipes with fans along with heat and Air . Along with a short wave am/fm radio . It's been 70% buried for over 10 years and no issues with rust or water entry.
Now you need a gigantic broom / windshield wiper mechanism to sweep the snow off of it in the winter time . Super cool and resourceful set up you guys are building keep up the good work 😎
How about a sailboat style traveler? A Broom Arm from top to bottom that travels on horizontal upper and lower tracks. One pass -Then parks itself on the opposite side. Next pass is opposite direction. They need somewhere for the snow to pile up over winter so the Bottom panel is not covered. They could put it on timer or remote for when they travel? View camera connected to internet?
A few years ago I worked for a business that sold food storage and preparedness products, (2000). We sold product to a girls ranch, they had several containers buried. But, they had them with the back into the hill, also the terrain was very rocky and clay so it couldn’t move because of saturation. So good luck!
You drive around with the gas bottle without the protective cap. If that bottle falls out of your trailer and the faucet breaks, it will fly off like a rocket. never transport a gas bottle without a protective cap! (Love you guys!)
@@AmbitionStrikes Long ago before I retired from trades, I remember hearing stories about those bottles. When some of our guys were tearing down an old manufacturing plant next to Lake Huron in Michigan they found some full bottles and knocked the faucets off to see what would happen. They flew at least as far as a football field into the lake. I'm pretty sure they could do way more damage than being shot with a shotgun.
I think the biggest problem that you would have when you bury a container is if you put too much load on the top of your container. We had a 40 footer at work for a field office and one of the job site material handlers used a fork lift to set a pallet loaded with a full reel of heavy electrical cable on the roof. It was easily over 1000 lbs and the roof caved in about 12 inches. When the pallet was lifted back off, the roof partially rebounded, but was still deformed.
All the strength in shipping containers is in the corners because the purpose is to connect them together on ships and then to chassies to deliver to locations on land. The sides as well as top and bottom are corrogated, but mostly to keep cargo inside, not to withstand pressure from earth when buried. That's why everyone tells you not to bury shipping containers.
Nice setup. Would have put a dirt cover over the drain pipe. One thing that I would suggest is to taper the dirt at the bottom of the pannal edge to let the snow slide off and down the hill side. Can't wait to see how it works out.
Yes, snow accumulation off the bottom of that huge array is going to be huge in the winter, you are going to need someplace for it to go or you are going to be going up with your excavator and digging next to your delicate solar panels...
I was thinking that a post on the front on each end, using the same post method you used constructing the house, would keep the container from creeping better than the skinny stakes in the soil.
Thanks for watching! What color do you think we should paint the container?
Match the rocks!
Camo
White if the panel is able to get light from the back side
Green ? Match the trees etc.. by the way , great job !
Same color as Barn dominium? Olive drab?
Might consider drilling and tapping some grease zerks into your hinges so they don't rust and freeze up over winter super cool setup 👍🙂
Stiffen the frame more also, think of wind load. Bridges move and sway, the gussets help keep it together from flex the constant flex from load. You are also putting static load on it, so yes it moved into place okay, but you will want to keep your eye on what and where fails will happen.
Beat me to it I was going to say the same it won't take much rust to lock that up a little grease and some paint will go a long way to making this last a good long time
I thot you were gonna suggest zerks for the stakes that kept hitting rock.
You might want to read up on welding galvanized. I think the fumes can be quite bad.
@@neon1929 the galvanized they have is done, and it's wire chase for panels, they'll just want to gusset and support once they fit the system. Put some good sized rocks on the downslope to back up your rods
We have completely buried them at our Camp Sites but we first covered the whole container with Tar to seal up any unseen cracks they may let moisture in. One has been in the ground since 1971 and still works fine.
If you are going to adjust your solar panels more than just "summer" and "winter", you could paint marks on your cable for every 10 degrees. That way if you want to adjust your angle you can just look up the ideal angle and move panels accordingly. It also allows 1 person to adjust array, you can just remove the bolts turn the winch to proper position and reinsert the bolts.
excellent post
We have a container cut 8ft. Off made a storm cellar out of it gug down couple feet covered it with bout 8 feet of dirt been that way for 13 years never had any problems. Thanks for sharing great video have fun
With the weight hanging from one side of the container, my biggest concern would be a strong wind lifting up and sideways on the whole array and container and tipping it over toward the array. It seems that pre-measured posts to connect the bottom of the beams to cemented in ground mounts (one set of posts and ground mounts for each angle) would provide a support far enough outboard to absorb that rotational moment. I know the container is very heavy, and will be even heavier with the batteries in it, but that is one huge sail you are mounting on it. Alternately, you could run cables from the top corners of the container uphill to steel posts drilled and epoxied into the exposed tops of a couple boulders to keep the container from being able to tip, or do both to stabilize both the container and the sail.
Yah, I am DEFINITELY not a fan of the way they did that. The array should be, as you said, on its own posts piled into the grouind. This would also add support for keeping the container in place during heavy ran/landslide condition.
Ah well, it may just work. One thing that matters a lot is the local prevalent wind direction. I do agree though that this is a huge sail in storm conditions. A few storm tie-down points on the corners may be a good idea. And then, the container by itself - compared to this sail - is not heavy at all. I would consider putting a layer of concrete sidewalk tiles on the floor, not sure if these are a thing in the US. Hereabouts, these are dirt cheap and reassuringly heavy.
I totally agree the container in a any wind could roll over on its side of the array and you suggestion is a good one
It would be the same idea as how the secure by layer retaining walls back into the hillside
Possibly to of welded steels plates ( 3 - 4 ) along the back wall then welded steel beams off of them at 90 degrees and a thick steel plate on those beams then back filled covering that so it had the soil / rocks weight to of held the container in place and acted as an ground anchor and counter weight of that steel frame and solar panels
I agree .. wind load .. even as light as 20mph will place a hige amount of stress on the system. more well anchored braces needed asap!!
Interesting idea. For the wall that is buried, a beam welded the length of the container halfway up would help prevent bowing. This is something that could be incorporated inside also, maybe as a shelf support.
For the winch, add a snatch block at the bottom of the container to run the cable through. This will allow the solar assembly to be pulled more vertically rather than horizontally. This will reduce strain on the winch, the container wall, and the assembly.
That comment about welding galvanized is 100% correct. Fumes are extremely toxic!
Holes up to allow water to enter and solid side down to carry water away.
Throughout all the episodes I was always impressed by the deep consideration and planning. I understand the time crunch but when you started this project I felt you started cutting too many corners. My biggest concern is that there is no foundation for the container. Yes, batteries and everything in the container will add weight but it would have been prudent to place the container on solid corner foundations and weld the container to the foundation. You can still drill some holes and pour concrete in the front to bury steel beams vertically that will support the container. Otherwise when you will have high winds and solar panel sails you will have the container moving. I like the hinged idea but please consider reinforcement of the wall, maybe from the inside where the hinges line up. One more corner cutting I saw when you welded the HF winch to the wall. These container walls are not that sturdy having all the forces on this one point of contact. You pinned the extending struts on the top but still this wrench will need also reinforcement from inside. Also the extending struts will need reinforcement on the wall.
Containers leak from the bottom up when you bury them. Luckily you "did not bury" them but it would have been better to have drain channels underneath towards the downhill side.
Sorry for this, I usually refrain from commenting as its always easy from the comfort of the home office to see details. But I felt compelled to do this as you always impressed me with your attention to the level of detail. I just build a 45 ft car port of a container and can attest that these are not that sturdy to bending forces. Keep up the good work! I love your channel and your 'off grid way of life'. Cant wait for the dozer work.
Well.. as there's freeze where they are, the frozing of soil will make the whole soil/hill expand behind the container.. he will end up pushed downhill one day or an other.. those little rods won't hold it there.. oh and if they would, the wall would cave in slowly.. benting in.. until weld fails.. it is what it is.. the fact there's no foundation will only help it glide toward the downhill portion.. might save the container from being damaged.. we'll see with the years passing by
I see that everyone who applauds their foolish plan gets a like from the people who are doing this, while this really smart (and somewhat obvious) criticism is studiously ignored. Smart people welcome insightful criticism. It's helpful. Everyone makes mistakes and nobody knows all the answers. But these people are just dimwits. "What colour should we paint the container?" The colour is the LEAST of your worries.
@Josey Wilds - said "...Yeah no one cares let them build their coffin....."
Fcuk me mate, that was a bit harsh!!!!!
No less a funny comment though ;)
:)
To square large/long things use the 345 Triangle. From the same point measure 3' one direction then 4' 90⁰ from it. That's 2 legs of a triangle. The long leg between it would be 5', hence the 345 Triangle which ends up with legs 90⁰ to each other. So it works in multiples if you have for example a large deck or frame 6,8,10 for example
Camo out the container and panel supports in a pattern that will match the surrounding forrest. Great job on the build. Drill the pivots the install grease fittings for long term ease of movement. 1/4-28 tap for threads. Use your jack hammer to install the pins in the ground.
Sgm retire have used many conexs for storage. Remember the hold heart and need ventilation. Also the steel holds the cold. Neither are good for batteries. Barring the conex may help. Insulation and ventilation may help.
The conex needs to be off the ground (railroad ties) and your perf pipe needed to be bedded in Gravel with landscape fabric covering it with more Gravel on top. A retaining wall for the hillside is a must as well. Shipping containers have all their strength at the corners. The skin isn't structural
We buried shipping containers in the desert in Aghanistan and Iraq all through the deployments, we also buried them to simulate underground bunkers. They just need to look up that info.
True or it gets clogged
I too was going to point out a few things myself:
1 They should have cut back into the
hillside and poured a concrete pad
and drilled into it to anchor the
container.
2 Any drainage pipe should be covered
with landscaping cloth to keep dirt out
then small gravel with a layer of sand
on top that.
3 Was the bottom of the container rust
proofed like the buried portion? If not
it should have been.
4 I think the wiring for the panels
probably should have been routed
through the channels to cut down on
extra work although I don't know what
they have in mind, they may be going
to run the wires through some kind of
conduit to protect the wiring from the
weather.
These ideas aren't meant as criticism but rather just my opinion on how I would have approached this.
Do it your way or as some of how others would. He said he would be happy to get 10 to 15 years out of the installation. Me I'd rather shoot for 25 to 50.
agreed
French drains should be wrapped in cloth to keep them clear of dirt. Some also use about a foot diameter of clean gravel around the pipes which is Also wrapped in ground cloth. So first the cloth lines the trench then a. Couple of inches of washed gravel
Great job guys!
I would be very careful moving that high pressure gas bottle around without the cap installed. Especially laying on its side. If it had rolled out of the cart and broken the valve off, you would be surprised at how far the missile could travel.
Gosh yes! It’s scary when one of those goes off!
Shush..Darwin needs work too
yes they can punch a hole in a block wall that is fully core filled with concrete
Imagine the # of views they would get , though 🤑😂😂
@@chrisforgan731 Saw it happen during shop class back in high school. oxygen cylinder was knocked over breaking off the valve, the cyl went through a block wall, traveled over 100 yards and buried itself in our garden plot. Unbelievable how much dust and dirt was in the shop, the rocket blasting off exposed all of it!
Absolutely amazing woman.
I can only wish my wife was as supportive and helpful.
It amazes me what vast knowledge different people have and the work they have done in their lives!! I know how to teach others how to sing/perform/how to speak in front of a crowd… but what you all do and what your viewers know👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻😃
Great job on the solar array guys, it's coming along nicely 👏👏👍👍
You have a good woman that can help you and knows what's she's doing that's good that it doesn't all fall on you good job guys
I used a simple water level to get my solar array grid laid out.. With the top line of posts level, the bottom line of posts level, and a fixed distance between rows, it all came out perfectly planar. My water level cost me under $5. It's a bit surprising, but adjusting the angle four times per year is just barely better than adjusting it twice per year. When to adjust it you ask? Vernal and autumnal equinoxes. AKA 3/22 and 9/22. Or on the 21st. It's a leap year thing. Of course, yours is so easy to adjust you could add a simple shadow indicator and adjust that winch every day at noon.
Do you ever get wind coming down the slope? If so, I would dig some holes a few yards downslope from the container corners, pour in some concrete footings with a steel piece sticking out the top. Then weld a steel beam from both end corners to the steel pieces on the footings. This would make it MUCH more resistant to flipping over in wind or slipping away from the buried edge.
The main reason the holes go down is because water will gather at the bottom of the pipe first. If you installed with the holes up then the ditch would need to flood to the top of the pipe before the water would drain. Water chooses the path of least resistance so with the holes down the water will find them easier and can be managed away from the container faster. Something to consider, if it's not too late, is to coat the outside with some sort of undercoating, preferably the spray kind. You won't necessarily need truck bed spray liner but it would last far longer than regular undercoating. The longer you can keep the steel from rusting the longer you container will remain under ground...
Look at snow roof silicone roof sealer. Your at a place where a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Stuff is great
great video thank you! the holes face down on drain pipe for at least two reasons. one is the dirt is less likely to get inside the pipe with the holes down. facing the holes down also allows the water to enter the pipe at a lower level than it would if the holes were facing up. the drain pipe is not supposed to catch water as it comes down it's supposed to allow water to flow out as the water table rises up from Below.
I would paint it metallic silver to reflect the light for the solar panels to get the maximum output
The main concern I have would be the side load during the winter and especially during spring thaw. The added weight of the snow/water could trigger a side collapse or could result in the entire container and array sliding down off of the cut you made. I'd recommend that you look at not only shielding the top of the container, but also look into some way to divert run off to mitigate the potential problem.
I have been binging on your channel. Great video! I have had good luck driving pins in rocky soil using a Bosch electric jack hammer. I assume someone makes this tool, but I couldn't find one at the time I needed it, so I made it. One end fits the chuck of the jack hammer, the other goes over the end of the pin. I have driven Nmbr 8 rebar (1" diameter) using this method. It won't go through a really big rock, but it will pound through smaller rock like you placed for your base. Be well & Best regards!
Loved the shot of Boone and Bailey sleeping in the back of the car. 🥰
My understanding of weathering steel (COR-TEN) is that it requires the alternating wet/dry cycle to form the resistant barrier. Burying it eliminates the cycle and it ends up rusting "normally." I'd have used a thicker mastic-type coating rather than the paint and done something to protect the coating before backfilling to reduce scratches from penetrating the coating. Another thought would have been to put stone and drainage under the container to help with things drying out.
Outstanding job!!!! I am SOOO Jelise of you.
Usually it’s considered dangerous to bury shipping containers because they aren’t built to handle side loads and are really only designed to handle loads along the rim of their ceilings and on their floors. It’s very possible that after some time the walls cave in because of the weight of the dirt pushing into the side. Especially with extra weight like water/snow/frost.
They should be OK unless there is a LOT of traffic uphill from the container shifting the dirt and rocks downhill. One way to build a stable retaining wall is with a metal mesh cage filled with large stones called a gabion wall. The way the rocks were laid along the side might act as an unboxed gabion wall. If there are no shape rock points shifting into the container I think it will be fine.
@@walterrutherford8321 It won't be fine or safe, these containers aren't designed to take side or top loads. There is an online video showing examples of containers buried without proper re-enforcement, it's clear what happens with only a few inches of dirt on top, never mind when it gets wet.
@MrCleitus en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabion
Jagged rocks don't settle and shift like loose soil. Without serious side forces, the rocks won't move. Any side forces now will be from landslides which, on that hillside, will be a possible hazard, whether the container is buried or not. But, the true test will be to check with them in 3-5yrs.
@@walterrutherford8321 As an engineer, it is a really really stupid idea, but you can't fix stupid.
You are right & also I want to know that why all container homes made by people are not touched with ground (I mean 100% touched {not only corners})
I think it will decrease the strength of a container when it is not touched with ground.
I saw a video of a couple in New Mexico that buried 2 containers side by side to be their home. I couldn't tell you the name of it. It's been about 6 or 7 years ago that I watched it. It's looking good there.
Power supply taking shape nicely!
Might want to stack large rock beside the container's downhill side do that the fill on the uphill side doesn't push it sideways. Get more telescoping square tubing on the 4 corners of the array panel so it's much more rigid in the storms. You'll want that for the winter snow loading also.
I know that you've got more welding and other work to do for this project, but great so far!
Please wear safety glasses when driving those steel pins in the rock one chip off of that in the eye and it'll ruin your whole summer . Also, if you had a hammer drill to drill a hole before you put the pins in the rock doesn't stand a chance. Stay well, stay safe
I liked how you test at the snow load Super cool idea
If you want your french drain not to plug up, you gotta put some landscape fabric around it to keep mud from infiltrating. Or you can clean out the pipe periodically, which should be easy in your circumstance with the exposed straight ends. Also, rust is more complicated than you might expect. Things rust when exposed to both water and air, and how fast they rust isn't something you can easily guess just by looking. Not all water is the same, and some kinds of it lead to more rust than others.
Wow! What an awesome project!
I think your main issues with the solar panel will come two areas: 1. Freezing and shifting/snapping welded joints and 2) Wind pressure and vibration.
Great video Riley and Courtney
In my last Germany assignment we used containers as air raid shelters and section offices. We put the containers up on un mortared rock to provide drainage. Then we went all army on them and made an outer wall of sand bags. Then we covered the bags with cement. and an outside of dirt. Water will soak in and turn the cement hard. When we got done we had wiring and furniture and it was very comfortable.
Watching you guys is great! Riley your mind is the part I enjoy and Together you two compliment each other so much. Love your can do positive energy. All I wish is there were more videos 😂I know it’s too time consuming. Enjoy!
You kids keep doing what your doing. And try and have fun.😉
Thank you again. You should make it so you can add some tie out cables to help stabilize it when it gets windy. Have another great day.
You can straighten steel lenghts by heating the bend to red hot then rapid cooling it with water, the movements are slow but normally 3 or 4 heat cycles for a 1/2 inch bend
This method can also do pipe
I love that you guys are prepared to discover a mistake years from now. I have a bunch of firsts on my off grid property that you just can’t find in RUclips University. Like you I figure you give your best thought and effort and hope it works. I have designed tilting panels raised off the roof of our barn to cater from snow depth. We had the barn structure engineered to withstand massive forces from snow, panel framing weight, lateral and updraft wind lift from the panels. This allowed us to have the panels out of main view like you guys have. Most say it wont work but the engineers signed it off so we are giving it a go! My water collection design was a first for the company that installed it so we’ll be watching that and expect some modifications also. Many have said I should be YouTubing my project but I know the effort that takes and what I’m most impressed about you guys is the effort you put in to document every project. I just could not find the time of effort to so that! Very impressive!
Just a little techy idea. I have a 12 vdc reversible ATV style winch I use to raise and lower my ham radio tower and it has a remote fob. It might even reach from your house and you could adjust the panel angle remotely for max output
I hope you guys are aware that welding galvanized steel releases some REALLY dangerous fumes. A little late for the episode but something to remember next time
Yes, a friend and an acquaintance, both died of bone cancer, both did a lot of cutting and welding on galvanized steel.
A really ugly way to die.
IMO not so big risk in outdoor job, as doing it in workshop. But yeah, health hazard nonetheless.
It's outside but respirator might help
Considering they are professional fabricators, I think they know this....
ya, that kind of pre-galv is not as nasty as welding on hot dipped
About your bent beam, sometimes they just come like that, and they’ll even have a little bit of variation in dimensions and sometimes the web is twisted so one side of the flange will be a different width than the other, and when you drill holes in the web of a beam you don’t want to be within a foot of a support and go with the 1/3rd rule, 1/3 the flange width max hole and stay in the middle 1/3 rd of the flange for optimal usage of the beam, or just overbuild to accommodate. Either way love the build, I’m actually building a shipping container house now for work
I have that same welder, (multimatic 220 multi-process) it’s amazing being versatile. Welding tip get Lincoln “inner-shield” flux core wire then no need to tow gas bottle around, only down fall is spool size is either 5lb or 60lb spools unless you can find the 20-30 lb spools to fit in your machine. My wife and I love the show, keep up the great content!
That worked out great !!! Nice work
Miller is a great little machine. Good choice. I’m impressed with y’all’s ambitions and team work. A man and a woman can do anything as a team. My wife has proven this to me many times. She is awesome. Good luck to you both.
Amazing you’re so lucky to have each same mind set
I would paint the container to match your building. Have you considered an anchor system? I would put some big rocks in the front after you paint the container.
Hi I am a South African and have enjoyed your channel my God bless you your wife and child
Awesome solution. Covers the roof, always under tension so no springs needed for adjusting, and uses off the shelf standard hardware making it more affordable. Seeing as the back of the solar panels collect light the color should have highest reflective quality to reflect sunlight, so a very light color like white or silver. From an aesthetics perspective green or brown, from an energy efficiency perspective white.
What you’ve done👍👍
The only question I have to ask is could u add some of that stuff they spray under vehicles on the sides to have kept rust on metal and water proof?
It was all great. Love it!
The only thing is saw that was concerning was the thickness of your drainage pipe. Too thin of a schedule pipe for the load without a bedding for protection. Im confident it crushed with the first rock.
The good news is with the grades in the area, standing water wont be a concern.
Ive worked dirt for 50+ yrs.
I probably missed a lot of videos of why you had to bury a container, for solar storage. I am curious why you had to bury that container, and I applaud you for putting in the drains! Most people would not think ahead about drainage, you
DID!
You could install an actuator and light level tracking so it stays at the optimal angle throughout the day / season. Simple and pretty cheap to do.
I do appreciate the shared work effort. You give DIY a whole new definition. Well Done.
I think you should have poured concrete footing under the container so when the ground gets wet there will be no container shift.
I agree and a hydroduct drainage system on the buried side
Agree we live where there is a lot of clay and everything moves when it’s rainy season we put everything on pads raised above the ground with French drains around every side 30 years later no mold or moisture in any building
Agreed, containers wooden floor will not last.
Running the drain below the bottom of the container should help.
Also, leaving some of the down side material or filling the down side, before filling the hill side would help with movement.
Yeah that container is definitely going to shift,a concrete pad should have been done for the container to sit on,then you can fasten the container to the slab. Plus that pvc pipe drain will not last under all that weight,pvc pipe is not designed for those types of forces,you should have used polyethylene pipe that has drainage slits cut into it and is designed for load stresses. Hope it works out for you guys ,but i can foresee problems with that sea container.
Have you considered what the load will be on those hinges with the solar panels attached to the frame when you experience heavy winds? It will be like a large sail. You may want to consider some method of strapping the whole thing down when severe weather is predicted. I would also think about renting a rock drill to plant some some deeper and greater diameter pilings (perhaps concrete with some rebar) to hold the container in place. I would be concerned that that solar panel sail may exert enough force to flip the container on its side, with catastrophic results.
You have plenty of input and suggestions regarding your work, I don't think you need any more. Without a doubt, one of my favorite episodes. Riley's brilliant engineering mind and Courtney's continued support, welding skills, excavator skills, editing skills and... You guys are fire!
10:55 Boss Babe behind Looking at his husband - oh freaking Love this guy so much
Hole saw tip as soon as your saw touchs your work, you have the circle scribed. Take and drill and drill two holes the width of the kerf about 180 degrees apart threw the steel. This relieves the chips alot faster with less effort.
Paint the container blaze orange. With the burried hillside on the opposite side of that cliff, and the weight / forces of that solar setup on the cliff side, making it blaze orange could make it easier to find when it slides down ... :)
Thanks again for sharing your lives with us and letting us in on your adventures. No, not sketchy at all...😁
Congrats Guy's on building ur solar panels support. paint it green.
Great job, looking forward to the completion of this project and it running your compound
adding a good paint coating to the roof for sure will help, even some on what is exposed on the sides...
when drilling with a hole saw in metal, cut a piece of sponge and insert inside the saw. put oil in the sponge to lubricate and help cool the saw. Great vids!!
Nice tip. Have filed that one away :-)
My neighbor buried one and concreted it over. They use it for storage. Be careful with the mold that might build up. After a few years they had a serious mold problem. Other than that it's still in use today.
The container is only 1/2 buried so should be good 👍👍
The winch was very clever. Good job you guys.
Brilliant flexible/pivoting solar array framing system, though I'd be concerned about your solar array (once the panels are installed) turning into a sail in strong winds. Also, your container is probably at some point going to take some side damage from a lateral load, most likely from water, I would imagine (think rapid snow melt or really heavy rains). Your drain may not be able to keep up. The reason you shouldn't bury shipping containers is they're not designed to take lateral loads, they're designed to take vertical loads, but I'm sure you know this already. If burying one, you should really reinforce the interior walls with some framing
Need to build a cart trailer to hold all your welding gear and materials needed for projects and keep that tank upright. That will make all future projects so much easier since everything will be together. You can back it in the shop when not using it outside. If you are only moving the solar panel rack twice a year, might consider some rachet straps for extra support for the wind that will try and move the whole panel system. I think 2 on top and 2 on bottom should do the trick. Cheap and easy too.
I've been off grid for 3 years, what I've found is even with the panels optimised for winter Sun (UK 🇬🇧) we have excess power in the summer, it's feast or famine.
Well, You made that look easy!!
Hope you are figuring in the wind for this project! Maybe some additional stabilizers using galvanized wires
Your Forman looks just like mine, they make a disc brake conversion kit foe it that's really easy to bolt on.
Off grid is awesome. Love you guys.
Paint the remainder white to help reflect the sun causing less interior heat.
Spray paint marks on your cables and supports for summer (yellow) and winter(blue) to reduce the guesswork. You could take it a step further and adjust it 30/31 days. You would need six colors or marks to mark the progressions between summer and winter solstices. If it gets too top-heavy, use the hole saw and cut 3" disks out of the top, spacing the holes out like an aircraft spar. Then add the disks to the bottom. Each 3" disk should be 3/4 to 1 lb.
I've read articles about burying containers that said they will crush under the weight of the fill. There were pictures of them with the walls caving in. It was different though in that they were actually buried completely. I think some plastic sheeting over the top of the fill going back into the hill side covered over with a few inches or a foot or so would keep water from even getting behind the container to begin with.
So much could go wrong .... but so much might go right!
Ralston Oklahoma has a single school building that held elementary thru highschool. The school at the time only had middle school attending it but the state is know for tornados and the kids didn't have a good Storm shelter. So we buried a conex container under ground. After closing off any openings that could allow water in. Then we installed under ground electric, attached some vent pipes with fans along with heat and Air . Along with a short wave am/fm radio . It's been 70% buried for over 10 years and no issues with rust or water entry.
That is awesome!
Now you need a gigantic broom / windshield wiper mechanism to sweep the snow off of it in the winter time . Super cool and resourceful set up you guys are building keep up the good work 😎
How about a sailboat style traveler? A Broom Arm from top to bottom that travels on horizontal upper and lower tracks. One pass -Then parks itself on the opposite side.
Next pass is opposite direction.
They need somewhere for the snow to pile up over winter so the
Bottom panel is not covered.
They could put it on timer or remote for when they travel?
View camera connected to internet?
A few years ago I worked for a business that sold food storage and preparedness products, (2000). We sold product to a girls ranch, they had several containers buried. But, they had them with the back into the hill, also the terrain was very rocky and clay so it couldn’t move because of saturation. So good luck!
This is such a good idea. Glad it's working out.
Conflicted....the container roof would make a nice DECK area/view point. Or solar panel bank.
We also felt conflicted giving our panels the best view on the property.
You drive around with the gas bottle without the protective cap. If that bottle falls out of your trailer and the faucet breaks, it will fly off like a rocket. never transport a gas bottle without a protective cap! (Love you guys!)
That is an excellent reminder and major oversight on our part!
@@AmbitionStrikes Long ago before I retired from trades, I remember hearing stories about those bottles. When some of our guys were tearing down an old manufacturing plant next to Lake Huron in Michigan they found some full bottles and knocked the faucets off to see what would happen. They flew at least as far as a football field into the lake. I'm pretty sure they could do way more damage than being shot with a shotgun.
Cutting oil helps a lot for cutting metal with those saws.
How will the solar array work with 5’ of snow on the ground? Love your videos!!
Jim
Enjoyed the video! Just subscribed... I noticed you guys have all of the good toys 😀
For French drains the holes in the perf pipe go up. For septics the holes go down. You should also use geotec fiber on top
Very Awesome Video!
You guys are very clever.
great job
I think the biggest problem that you would have when you bury a container is if you put too much load on the top of your container. We had a 40 footer at work for a field office and one of the job site material handlers used a fork lift to set a pallet loaded with a full reel of heavy electrical cable on the roof. It was easily over 1000 lbs and the roof caved in about 12 inches. When the pallet was lifted back off, the roof partially rebounded, but was still deformed.
All the strength in shipping containers is in the corners because the purpose is to connect them together on ships and then to chassies to deliver to locations on land. The sides as well as top and bottom are corrogated, but mostly to keep cargo inside, not to withstand pressure from earth when buried. That's why everyone tells you not to bury shipping containers.
Very cool solar frame. Nice job!
Nice setup. Would have put a dirt cover over the drain pipe. One thing that I would suggest is to taper the dirt at the bottom of the pannal edge to let the snow slide off and down the hill side. Can't wait to see how it works out.
Yes, snow accumulation off the bottom of that huge array is going to be huge in the winter, you are going to need someplace for it to go or you are going to be going up with your excavator and digging next to your delicate solar panels...
Top of the container makes a great sun deck,,,
I was thinking that a post on the front on each end, using the same post method you used constructing the house, would keep the container from creeping better than the skinny stakes in the soil.
If you choose a matching house color, that would be a good choice! Ron PTL USA