Seriously, YOU ARE AMAZING! Love your videos. Wish I lived in your zone 5 though in Oregon. I'm in Southern Calif., Glendale, to be exact, Zone 10a. My issue has been with bad pests on roses since they were planted 3 yrs. ago. You name it, I've had it and it always gets worse as we go into summer, such as, thrips, mites, rose borers, rose slugs, aphids, white fly, a few grasshoppers here and there, and a few others I'm forgetting the names of right now. I'm sure you know that we've had a serious drought here the past 7 yrs. or so. For example, the first week of January 2018, was ridiculous, with temps way over 80 for a week or so. Even March and April last year we had way too many over 80 degree weather days. Prior years were pretty much the same with 80 degree hot weather days starting around March thru June, for at least 15 or more days out of those months. Then we'd get into July thru Sept. with our crazy HOT weather lasting into Oct. and EVEN Nov. I think it was Dec. 2018 where we had over 80 degree weather for a week or so out of that month. So, we're tired of the heat here in Southern Cal., especially those of us who have nice gardens we are trying to maintain. Finally, beginning last Oct., we have had record breaking rainfall which has continued on to well, this past Sunday. Unreal! I've live here 62 yrs. now and we've NEVER had this much rain from Oct. to the present day. I know it's going to change soon and I dread it. The worst pest on my roses these past 3 yrs. has been thrips. I have tried Captain Jack ready-to-use spray bottles, but those are soooo hard to turn upside down to spray under the leaves, especially when you have 45 rose bushes. So, using a concentrated form in a tank spayer I know, is less costly and easier to get under the leaves with the wand of the sprayer but it still, to me, is not easy to spray "under" all the leaves. I know the timing of when you spray is also important but that is where I'm having difficulty deciding when is the perfect time. Is it best to start spraying when the rose buds are still green and closed "or" when they are starting to peel back slightly? With some buds, I will notice as soon as they start to peel back ever so slightly, the thrips have gotten to it as it will turn brown or even crusty with damage. My issue is with the timing is....let's say you spray when the buds are green and totally closed, well, as time goes on, you get more buds on that same bush that you already sprayed and now those buds will need to be sprayed. And when you have so many rose bushes, you'd find yourself having to keep a close watch on what rose bushes you need to spray next. I mean, you literally would find yourself so time consumed with trying to keep the thrips from damaging your rose blooms on a constant basis...like, every 3 to 4 days along with repeat spraying and even then will that get control of them? I honestly doubt it. Also, how long does the spray last on the plant and effective in killing the thrips? I also heard the spray has to come in contact with the thrips...well, I personally do not see the thrips until they are starting to eat the rose buds which I feel is too late to start spraying. That's why I feel it's best to start spraying when the buds are right about to open but NOT when they are just baby buds or you are wasting money and your time spraying them at too early of a stage. In past years, I found that when I used the tank sprayer, I still would continue to get the thrips within 7-10 days. I know you are supposed to respray, which I would, but sure enough, they would again come back within 7-10 days. I think you are supposed to again spray a THIRD time but from what I understand, if after the third treatment with the SAME product, the thrips are still returning then that product is either not working OR they've become immune already to that product. Immune already? After using a product that was highly recommended for controlling the thrips only 3 times and they are immune to it? So, I've been told to try another product, which I have done in the past. I also was told, if spraying isn't working, then to use a systemic, which I have done in the past and did do 2.5 wks. ago because again, the spraying wasn't working. The systemic that was recommended to me was.... Bayer "All-in-one" Rose and Flower Care in granular form. The bottle instructions say to use one capful per rosebush. I've had a few knowledgeable people say that's way too much to use and that my rose bushes will become addicted to the stuff, like a person gets addicted to a drug where if I keep using it, it will no longer be effective. I read more instructions online on how to use this Bayer systemic product and it said to use 1/2 capful per foot of rose bush. I've also been told "not" to use this systemic product on a "bare root" rose bush until the bush is about 1 yr. old. It takes two weeks for the Systemic to work and I was told to use the tank sprayer, in the meantime, if I've already seen the thrips damage. The systemic is supposed to be repeated anywhere from 4-6 wks. if you continue to see thrips, which means, I have to wait until I see the thrip damage on the rose blooms to know if I still have thrips or not. Not sure if it's good to wait until I see if I still have thrips or not OR if I should just go ahead and use the Systemic again to get ahold of them. If I wait until I see the thrips again, I wonder if I'm defeating the purpose of what I'm trying to do by having waited too long. I noticed the thrips coming back after 5 wks. and again, I didn't know until they were again attacking the rose buds. A few years ago is when I started using this Bayer systemic product. I was told to get a head start on them in Feb. and to repeat every 4-6 wks. I waited until 5 wks. and I was sooo disappointed as they were already back eating the buds and leaves were curling and drying out. So, I ended up deadheading the damaged roses which made me think to myself, why bother having roses if you have to worry about this THRIP issue 24/7? I got rid of about 30 rose bushes in the past couple yrs. so I'm down to 45 now which makes it a little easier to handle but still a pain in the neck! :-( Part of my problem, I think, are the rose bushes I chose. I chose the prettiest colored ones that were NOT award winning rose bushes that are supposed to resist pests and diseases. I might still have to get rid of more rose bushes, as there are some rose bushes that the thrips seem to destroy more than others even though the thrips are on all the rose bushes...it's just that some rose buds seem to manage to still bloom and look pretty decent even though the thrips are still on other rose buds on the same plant. Any rose bushes I remove in the future, I will try replacing with "award winning" rose bushes and see if that helps my thrip problem. I was told to choose the hybrid tea rose bushes over the floribunda and grandiflora ones since they might be more susceptible to thrips since they have so many blooms on one stem close together. Do you think that's true that hybrid teas might be a better choice? All the rose bushes I have now are either floribunda or grandiflora. Lastly, I had a rose bush on either side of my two black knight buddleias(butterfly bush) and the buddleias would ALSO end up getting the THRIP damage. I was told the buddleias are supposed to be pretty resistant to pests.....so frustrating! I would end up getting not only damaged leaves on my buddleias but also the sticky black ink droppings on their leaves that are supposed to be "thrips droppings". I recently decided to just remove the 4 rose bushes that were strattling those buddleais. So, we'll see if the budleias do better this year. Thanks again!
Pest control can vary so much from place to place, so we can’t give specific advice. However, if you choose to apply anything to control them, it’s crucial to follow the label directions exactly. They will include information about when to apply for best control and usually, instructions for specific pests. Before you apply anything else, however, I would carefully read over this very informative bulletin on thrips from UC: ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7429.html
Our butterfly bushes in Ventura County CA, get loaded with caterpillars on the flower heads and they totally destroy them. We have to either spray or pull them all off by hand. They coat the leaves with some sticky substance and pull them in around them for protection then eat the plant.
Hi, fab video. I planted My Tricolour butterfly bush about 3 months ago here in the uk it has grown quite quickly and has blooms on every branch but its NOT growing upwards only quite low how can I get it to start growing upright please help. Many thanks.
Would putting down a weed barrier be unwise around butterfly bushes root system? Some areas of my yard suffer from horrible weeds, the worst being bindweed and morning glory. I’d like to put a barrier down, but am wondering if it would keep the butterfly bush too moist. Advice?
Thanks for watching, the Buzz line of butterfly plants are produced by a different company. And in our videos we only feature our plants....thanks for asking!
Sorry for the delay Annette, had to wait to hear back from Laura to confirm. That’s a Happy Jack Clematis and she said it came back beautifully this year, too!
Yes, our line of Pugster buddleia are smaller, but have enormous blooms that will appear all summer if you trim the older blooms, here is a link, and we do offer these in our online store too, www.provenwinners.com/plants/search?keywords=pugster&hardiness_zone=All&duration=All&flower-color=All&light_requirement=All&available_online=All
You want to typically avoid pruning these in the fall, not sure if this is one of our varieties--it is hard to make recommendations on plants that we are not very familiar with. Perhaps this article can help too. www.provenwinners.com/learn/how-plant/proven-winners-ultimate-guide-butterfly-bush?no_cache=1492018181
I just grabbed an azalea. "Pink Pearl" It was too pretty to pass up. I think may have planted it all wrong though. :( I can not find an informational video about them. I thought you had covered them, but not sure.
Hi Cassie, Pink Pearl Azalea is not a Proven Winners plant, but here is a page we found online that should be of help, enjoy spring! plants.newgarden.com/12190005/Plant/17287/Pink_Pearl_Azalea
I appreciate your commitment to plants
Thank you Wayne, and we appreciate you watching!
Great info! Thanks
Thank you great info ,
Seriously, YOU ARE AMAZING! Love your videos. Wish I lived in your zone 5 though in Oregon.
I'm in Southern Calif., Glendale, to be exact, Zone 10a.
My issue has been with bad pests on roses since they were planted 3 yrs. ago. You name it, I've had it and it always gets worse as we go into summer, such as, thrips, mites, rose borers, rose slugs, aphids, white fly, a few grasshoppers here and there, and a few others I'm forgetting the names of right now.
I'm sure you know that we've had a serious drought here the past 7 yrs. or so. For example, the first week of January 2018, was ridiculous, with temps way over 80 for a week or so. Even March and April last year we had way too many over 80 degree weather days.
Prior years were pretty much the same with 80 degree hot weather days starting around March thru June, for at least 15 or more days out of those months. Then we'd get into July thru Sept. with our crazy HOT weather lasting into Oct. and EVEN Nov. I think it was Dec. 2018 where we had over 80 degree weather for a week or so out of that month. So, we're tired of the heat here in Southern Cal., especially those of us who have nice gardens we are trying to maintain.
Finally, beginning last Oct., we have had record breaking rainfall which has continued on to well, this past Sunday. Unreal! I've live here 62 yrs. now and we've NEVER had this much rain from Oct. to the present day. I know it's going to change soon and I dread it.
The worst pest on my roses these past 3 yrs. has been thrips. I have tried Captain Jack ready-to-use spray bottles, but those are soooo hard to turn upside down to spray under the leaves, especially when you have 45 rose bushes. So, using a concentrated form in a tank spayer I know, is less costly and easier to get under the leaves with the wand of the sprayer but it still, to me, is not easy to spray "under" all the leaves.
I know the timing of when you spray is also important but that is where I'm having difficulty deciding when is the perfect time. Is it best to start spraying when the rose buds are still green and closed "or" when they are starting to peel back slightly? With some buds, I will notice as soon as they start to peel back ever so slightly, the thrips have gotten to it as it will turn brown or even crusty with damage.
My issue is with the timing is....let's say you spray when the buds are green and totally closed, well, as time goes on, you get more buds on that same bush that you already sprayed and now those buds will need to be sprayed. And when you have so many rose bushes, you'd find yourself having to keep a close watch on what rose bushes you need to spray next. I mean, you literally would find yourself so time consumed with trying to keep the thrips from damaging your rose blooms on a constant basis...like, every 3 to 4 days along with repeat spraying and even then will that get control of them? I honestly doubt it.
Also, how long does the spray last on the plant and effective in killing the thrips?
I also heard the spray has to come in contact with the thrips...well, I personally do not see the thrips until they are starting to eat the rose buds which I feel is too late to start spraying. That's why I feel it's best to start spraying when the buds are right about to open but NOT when they are just baby buds or you are wasting money and your time spraying them at too early of a stage.
In past years, I found that when I used the tank sprayer, I still would continue to get the thrips within 7-10 days. I know you are supposed to respray, which I would, but sure enough, they would again come back within 7-10 days. I think you are supposed to again spray a THIRD time but from what I understand, if after the third treatment with the SAME product, the thrips are still returning then that product is either not working OR they've become immune already to that product. Immune already? After using a product that was highly recommended for controlling the thrips only 3 times and they are immune to it? So, I've been told to try another product, which I have done in the past.
I also was told, if spraying isn't working, then to use a systemic, which I have done in the past and did do 2.5 wks. ago because again, the spraying wasn't working. The systemic that was recommended to me was.... Bayer "All-in-one" Rose and Flower Care in granular form. The bottle instructions say to use one capful per rosebush. I've had a few knowledgeable people say that's way too much to use and that my rose bushes will become addicted to the stuff, like a person gets addicted to a drug where if I keep using it, it will no longer be effective.
I read more instructions online on how to use this Bayer systemic product and it said to use 1/2 capful per foot of rose bush. I've also been told "not" to use this systemic product on a "bare root" rose bush until the bush is about 1 yr. old.
It takes two weeks for the Systemic to work and I was told to use the tank sprayer, in the meantime, if I've already seen the thrips damage. The systemic is supposed to be repeated anywhere from 4-6 wks. if you continue to see thrips, which means, I have to wait until I see the thrip damage on the rose blooms to know if I still have thrips or not. Not sure if it's good to wait until I see if I still have thrips or not OR if I should just go ahead and use the Systemic again to get ahold of them. If I wait until I see the thrips again, I wonder if I'm defeating the purpose of what I'm trying to do by having waited too long. I noticed the thrips coming back after 5 wks. and again, I didn't know until they were again attacking the rose buds.
A few years ago is when I started using this Bayer systemic product. I was told to get a head start on them in Feb. and to repeat every 4-6 wks. I waited until 5 wks. and I was sooo disappointed as they were already back eating the buds and leaves were curling and drying out. So, I ended up deadheading the damaged roses which made me think to myself, why bother having roses if you have to worry about this THRIP issue 24/7?
I got rid of about 30 rose bushes in the past couple yrs. so I'm down to 45 now which makes it a little easier to handle but still a pain in the neck! :-(
Part of my problem, I think, are the rose bushes I chose. I chose the prettiest colored ones that were NOT award winning rose bushes that are supposed to resist pests and diseases. I might still have to get rid of more rose bushes, as there are some rose bushes that the thrips seem to destroy more than others even though the thrips are on all the rose bushes...it's just that some rose buds seem to manage to still bloom and look pretty decent even though the thrips are still on other rose buds on the same plant.
Any rose bushes I remove in the future, I will try replacing with "award winning" rose bushes and see if that helps my thrip problem. I was told to choose the hybrid tea rose bushes over the floribunda and grandiflora ones since they might be more susceptible to thrips since they have so many blooms on one stem close together. Do you think that's true that hybrid teas might be a better choice? All the rose bushes I have now are either floribunda or grandiflora.
Lastly, I had a rose bush on either side of my two black knight buddleias(butterfly bush) and the buddleias would ALSO end up getting the THRIP damage. I was told the buddleias are supposed to be pretty resistant to pests.....so frustrating! I would end up getting not only damaged leaves on my buddleias but also the sticky black ink droppings on their leaves that are supposed to be "thrips droppings". I recently decided to just remove the 4 rose bushes that were strattling those buddleais. So, we'll see if the budleias do better this year.
Thanks again!
Pest control can vary so much from place to place, so we can’t give specific advice. However, if you choose to apply anything to control them, it’s crucial to follow the label directions exactly. They will include information about when to apply for best control and usually, instructions for specific pests. Before you apply anything else, however, I would carefully read over this very informative bulletin on thrips from UC: ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7429.html
great tips!
Our butterfly bushes in Ventura County CA, get loaded with caterpillars on the flower heads and they totally destroy them. We have to either spray or pull them all off by hand. They coat the leaves with some sticky substance and pull them in around them for protection then eat the plant.
Hi, fab video. I planted My Tricolour butterfly bush about 3 months ago here in the uk it has grown quite quickly and has blooms on every branch but its NOT growing upwards only quite low how can I get it to start growing upright please help. Many thanks.
❤️❤️❤️
Would putting down a weed barrier be unwise around butterfly bushes root system? Some areas of my yard suffer from horrible weeds, the worst being bindweed and morning glory. I’d like to put a barrier down, but am wondering if it would keep the butterfly bush too moist. Advice?
what about the Buzz series. People talk about Lo and behold but never mention the buzz
Thanks for watching, the Buzz line of butterfly plants are produced by a different company. And in our videos we only feature our plants....thanks for asking!
Laura what is the purple flowered plant on the right in the pot in the picture?
Sorry for the delay Annette, had to wait to hear back from Laura to confirm. That’s a Happy Jack Clematis and she said it came back beautifully this year, too!
Are there varieties that are compact and more low (dwarf variety) growing?
Yes, our line of Pugster buddleia are smaller, but have enormous blooms that will appear all summer if you trim the older blooms, here is a link, and we do offer these in our online store too, www.provenwinners.com/plants/search?keywords=pugster&hardiness_zone=All&duration=All&flower-color=All&light_requirement=All&available_online=All
Question hi I planted one this summer it took off so do I prune it back know or spring
You want to typically avoid pruning these in the fall, not sure if this is one of our varieties--it is hard to make recommendations on plants that we are not very familiar with. Perhaps this article can help too. www.provenwinners.com/learn/how-plant/proven-winners-ultimate-guide-butterfly-bush?no_cache=1492018181
I am in zone 3 Canada. I purchased some seeds hoping I can grow them as an annual. Do you think I can grow this little plant as an annual?
We do not grow these plants from seed, not sure if you can find any but it is always worth a try!
@@ProvenWinnersRUclips I did find some seeds so I am going to give it a try. Thank you.
I just grabbed an azalea. "Pink Pearl" It was too pretty to pass up. I think may have planted it all wrong though. :( I can not find an informational video about them. I thought you had covered them, but not sure.
Hi Cassie, Pink Pearl Azalea is not a Proven Winners plant, but here is a page we found online that should be of help, enjoy spring! plants.newgarden.com/12190005/Plant/17287/Pink_Pearl_Azalea