I recommend you glue the one way bearings into the aluminum housing. The bearings will spin in the housing and you'll get 3 wheel drive car basically. Also, i tried glueing the diffs before, the bad is if you dont center the drive cups perfectly, they wobble bad and can snap a cvd pin off. So the adjustable diff in the rear I preferred as it keeps the axles true and straight. I could not get the rear adjustable diff fully locked. I tightened mine down 100% and it still spun the diff. So something to look at when building it.
Thanks for that info Maxx! I'll probably try the stock rear diff first, then the ball diff and then finally a locked diff. I guess there's an HPI diff locker that will work that I've ordered in to try
The RCNetwork Very cool, I didnt know about the locker. I'll look for it, do you have a part number? Also, when you do the RPM rod end, take a good measurement of the original length before you start. I didnt and was fighting a loss of steering for a while. I also upgraded the steering rack to Aluminum with bearings to help get rid of more slop. This did minimal improvement. The RPM rod ends do wonders. For me the One way was the ticket to drifting. It allowed me to drive way slower for more technical drifts. The overdrive pulleys I have not done. Not sure I will. That Porsche body looks amazing though. I want one.
Those wheels are the ones, I'm looking into getting along with the slicks. I will get a different body and get the hpi drifting tires and wheels. Crawler Ted has a drifting sprint 2 .
You are actually pulling through w what u say ur gonna do! Rich ur the man!! I'm really exited to see the rest of the series cuz I'm basically at the same place u are w the sprint 2 lol.. Looking forward to the next video
Got the same car and I'm also making it drift ready. I bought 2 in ABS piping like you suggested but found out the hard way that these rims a slightly bigger than 2in and won't fit this ABS garbage I got. I'm just going to buy some standard 26mm wheels and tires on eBay and call it a day
If you watched my drift tire video, you do have to modify the wheels and tires to get them to fit perfect.....Standard 26mm wheels will look terrible on the Porsche
Check this site for the model number: www.amainhobbies.com/hpi-bbs-48x34mm-spoke-wheel-black-2-14mm-offset-hpi109155/p649521 Then you can google it to see where they have them in stock
I need to know the pulley make and model number when you have them I a havering a hell of a time trying to find pulleys that fit on the shaft that the wrist pin can hold
Hello! I did the RPM upgrade as well but the shaft and tube of the servo-saver are very loose too so the slop is still there. Does this happen to you too ? Also the rear wheels "look" kinda inwards, is this adjustable some way?
Awesome parts, I like how the dogbones are attached to the axle drive so u dont lose them
Yep, that's the main reason for the fronts. It also allows me to cut away at the front Caster Blocks to get a better steering angle too
That's good to know your hitting all the points needing improvement w the sprint 2 thanks again for helping us all out
No problem. I found the same issues. No one really shows how to improve it
I recommend you glue the one way bearings into the aluminum housing. The bearings will spin in the housing and you'll get 3 wheel drive car basically. Also, i tried glueing the diffs before, the bad is if you dont center the drive cups perfectly, they wobble bad and can snap a cvd pin off. So the adjustable diff in the rear I preferred as it keeps the axles true and straight. I could not get the rear adjustable diff fully locked. I tightened mine down 100% and it still spun the diff. So something to look at when building it.
Thanks for that info Maxx! I'll probably try the stock rear diff first, then the ball diff and then finally a locked diff. I guess there's an HPI diff locker that will work that I've ordered in to try
The RCNetwork Very cool, I didnt know about the locker. I'll look for it, do you have a part number? Also, when you do the RPM rod end, take a good measurement of the original length before you start. I didnt and was fighting a loss of steering for a while. I also upgraded the steering rack to Aluminum with bearings to help get rid of more slop. This did minimal improvement. The RPM rod ends do wonders. For me the One way was the ticket to drifting. It allowed me to drive way slower for more technical drifts. The overdrive pulleys I have not done. Not sure I will. That Porsche body looks amazing though. I want one.
Those wheels are the ones, I'm looking into getting along with the slicks. I will get a different body and get the hpi drifting tires and wheels. Crawler Ted has a drifting sprint 2 .
Cool. They're a bit hard to find, but I left a link to Tower Hobbies. At $5.99 for two, it ain't bad!
You are actually pulling through w what u say ur gonna do! Rich ur the man!! I'm really exited to see the rest of the series cuz I'm basically at the same place u are w the sprint 2 lol.. Looking forward to the next video
Stay tuned Dave! There will probably be about 15-20 vids in this series excluding running vids.
Oh man another wicked awesome build/upgrade series, thoroughly enjoy watching all your video's. plus I just got in the mail, my Sakura D3 kit
Nice on the D3. Good ol' Joe got one too (But it's his buddy's) They look nice with the full CS set up and front motor. I was eyeing the MST as well.
The MST are top notch drifter's, going to get the D3 all built with all the upgrades I have coming, MST will be the next buy
I bought the hoonicorn look alike 1552 wheels and they have a 15mm offset
Got the same car and I'm also making it drift ready. I bought 2 in ABS piping like you suggested but found out the hard way that these rims a slightly bigger than 2in and won't fit this ABS garbage I got. I'm just going to buy some standard 26mm wheels and tires on eBay and call it a day
If you watched my drift tire video, you do have to modify the wheels and tires to get them to fit perfect.....Standard 26mm wheels will look terrible on the Porsche
Hi Rich. Great video. I just tried to install the 4-40 RPMs but they are too long for the turnbuckles. Did you find another that worked?
+Zuko811 Thanks Zuko.....I chopped off the beginning of the rod end to make it work....I believe about an 1/8th of an inch
Btw lock the rear, I heard about that on a 3racing chassis forum
Yeah, I've heard both (Locked and ball diff tightened down.)
You will defidently want to lock your rear, I made that mistake with my Ofna Jl10e drift.
Ok then. Enjoy it soon
I've been looking at these wheels for an older Ofna I have. Are they compatible with 12mm lugs? Thanks.
Yep, they're 12mm hex. The offsetis quite wide at +9mm on the fronts and +14 on the rears. Typical 200mm bodies require +3/+6.
I see this video is a little old.
However the links to the 14 and 9mm offsets are no longer valid.
Do you know any other place to get them?
Check this site for the model number: www.amainhobbies.com/hpi-bbs-48x34mm-spoke-wheel-black-2-14mm-offset-hpi109155/p649521
Then you can google it to see where they have them in stock
I need to know the pulley make and model number when you have them I a havering a hell of a time trying to find pulleys that fit on the shaft that the wrist pin can hold
Yep, I sure will. I have ordered in a bunch of pulleys/belts and will experiment and post a video in the next couple of weeks. Stay tuned!
Hello!
I did the RPM upgrade as well but the shaft and tube of the servo-saver are very loose too so the slop is still there.
Does this happen to you too ?
Also the rear wheels "look" kinda inwards, is this adjustable some way?
What offset do I need for this porsche if I get regular 26 mm wide wheels?
Did the diff work good for drifting or not
traxxas199 I ended up using the front one way and I locked the rear. Worked great!