Very clear and concise. Thanks. Thinking of changing my DT 240 stainless bearings and upgrading to the ceramic 110 bearing. Probably don’t need it but I like upgrading stuff.
This was an easy to follow explanation. I've added this video to my 'preventive maintenance' list. Thanks for taking the time to do the video, and thanks for the link to the ratchet tool.
Thanks for the vid, it was informative and useful. You said to keep a bearing in at all times. I overlooked this at some point and wished I hadn't. No huge big deal, just a bit more hassle.
Yeah its not the end of the world but it can be a bit difficult and scary when trying to get the bearing in and seeing it on a big angle 🤣 Glad you got it sorted out 👍
Thanks for this video, it helped a lot, I just did front and rear DT Swiss hub bearings change, for the rear I bought the DT swiss ring nut remover (for 3 pawl) and it work over the axle, still needed a lot of strenght to unscrew it. I had more hard time getting out the bearing taping on the axle and then taping them in with a socket, had to hit really hard (wheels on a large piece of wood on the ground, drilled a hole for the axle to go in...) I felt like destroying stuff so a bit scary but it's all done without trouble. Thanks again!
Glad it all worked out for ya! I did this job on a DT swiss 240s a while ago and the bearings were very hard to hit out and hit in! I really don't see the purpose of having such a tight fit for the bearings but thats why I noted in the video if you got actual dt swiss hubs you have to use a lot of force and doing it for the first time you are right its pretty scary, but once done it gives a good sense of accomplishment :)
@@MTBfixHQ Yeah I dont know why its that hard, last week I changed the 10 bearings in my Canyon Spectral frame (bike has 10 000kms), it was nowhere as difficult as the wheels hubs bearings (good thing because having to hammer like a maniac on a frame would be risky ahah)
I wanted to replace my old DT Swiss 370 bearings to a hybrid bearings. How many bearings do i need to get for the front and rear? And what size and model? Thanks
Sorry I do not know which size bearings all the dt swiss hubs use but you can easily find this out by just taking the end caps off and reading the numbers on the bearings seals, you can also use this link to search for your specific hubs, then you scroll down to see which components the hub uses and it will give you bearing sizes, Cheers! www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support#filter
Great video. I was looking to replace my bearing on my dt swiss. Anyway, that homemade hub holder/support...what did you use. It looks like a piece of PVC pipe? If so what size diameter. I've seen other videos that have an actual hub support tool, but I cant seem to find it anywhere or don't know what it's call. Anyway thanks for the video, gives me a better understanding of what I need to do. Ps. Can you show a video on how to do the front hubs?
Glad it helps! As for the hub support yes its just a piece of PVC pipe I had laying around, for the size its best to measure your hub to find out what size you need, just make sure its not so big that it rests on the spokes and should be good to go. The front hub is actually a lot easier, its basically the same as the rear hub but without the ring nut, I may end up making a video doing the front wheel in the future! cheers
Remember kids: unless you like doing to work twice, don't use cheapo bearings. I'm not saying you need to go out and buy SKF bearings, but buying crappy aliexpress bearings going to last like you expect them to last.
I tend to agree, especially if you don't potentially want to do the work twice, that being said I got a 10 pack of bearing from aliexpress for $10, they have lasted over two years in my hubs and still spin as smooth as when I installed them. The reason cheap bearings can work ok is because there is very little forces and RPM on wheel bearings compared to other applications. If you ride your bike through deep water and completely submerge the hub then good quality bearings will help because of their better seals.
Thanks for the help. Quick question, @ 6:09 it seems like the old bearing is being pressed back in to guide the opposite bearing in. Could you have pressed a new new one in at this time?
You do not want to install the new bearing at that time because if you watch my video you will see that you need to hit that bearing back out again, better to install old bearing for that purpose, hitting a new bearing out can cause damage to it. The reason that bearing has to be hit out again is because the axle is in the way of the tool when tightening the ring back in place, if you have a tool that fits over the axle then yes you can install a new bearing at that time because you will not need to hit it out again.
Thanks for this. It seemed to work when I did it and the axle spins freely when not on the bike. But then it seizes when installed on the bike. Did the bearing just not seat properly?
if it seizes when you tighten the wheel on the bike it can only mean that you did not hit the bearings fully to the end, when you remove the cassette and grab the axle and pull it in and out, if there is movement they need to be hit in further, it could maybe also be the spacer that goes on the axle where the ratchets go maybe you forgot to put it back on because sometimes people forget that.
If you watch the whole video I explain why I hit it out twice, there is no point in installing the new bearing the first time when I know I have to hit it out again since it can sometimes cause damage to the bearing. I explain at 5:45 in the video why that is, but ill explain in further detail. To remove the lock ring nut with the dt swiss tool I need to remove the axle because its in the way which means I need to hit the bearings out on the other side to get the axle out of the way, but as I explain in the video you never want both bearings removed at same time or it can become very difficult to hit the bearing in. The only reason I am pressing that bearing back in is so that the other bearings aligns itself much much easier when hitting it in. If my DT swiss tool managed to fit over the axle I would not need to hit the other bearing out twice, but since it doesn't fit and I need to get the axle out of the way hitting the other bearings out twice is the only way, I would imagine the original DT swiss tool fits over the axle which saves you the extra step, hopefully that makes sense
FWIW you don't actually have to remove the ratchet ring on a true DT hub. Also, the drive side bearing is not a 6902 bearing as shown here. On DT hubs it is a 15267 which is an angular contact bearing. It can be pressed in and out (and that thin washer as well) with clearance of the ratchet ring. It's possible this knockoff hub used in the video is two 6902 bearings but on a true DT rear hub they are different bearings. A 6902 is 28mm OD and the 15267 is a 26mm OD (and thus will clear the ratchet ring without having to remove it).
Sorry but I think you are incorrect, DT swiss MTB 240s Hubs of this design (not the new EXP Hubs) use 2x 6902 bearings, also you have to remove the ratchet rings when removing the bearing, here is a link to DT swiss website, same hub design as this knockoff, scroll down and click the + beside Hub and it will show all the parts, you will see 6902 bearing and if you click the (show all) drop down list it shows it uses 2x of them www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support?matnr=H24PTCDBR28SA7740S Have a good day
You're thinking of the 240 EXP that uses the 1526 bearing. Why they changed to this stupid thing over the 6902, I have no idea, the 6902 is a superior bearing
To add another element to the plot, I have a DT Swiss XMC Spline 1200 wheel set. It has hubs labeled "240", but is a bit different in its design. The non-drive side rear has a 6802 (15x24x5) and the driveside has a 15267 (15x26x7). However, with everything dissembled the old bearing will not pass through the racket ring. It starts but it doesn't take much to bind it, and same with a washer. This is on an old rachet ring so there is some wear. I'd not advice trying to push that bearing through the ring.
On individual hubs from model year 2015 onwards, ball bearings with a smaller outside diameter (Ø 26 mm) are installed on the drive side. This allows the ball bearing to be replaced without removing the ring nut. For all other hubs, the ring nut must be removed in order to change the ball bearing on the drive side. Before further disassembly steps check which hub version is available.
@@michalfilipowicz4663 if you watch the whole video you will see the socket I use is almost exact size of outer race of the bearing so that is literally impossible to happen, there is no chance the socket hits the bearing seal or the balls, also the title of this video is "HOW TO CHANGE DT SWISS BEARINGS WITH HOME TOOLS"
To get that stubborn lock ring off, rent an impact driver. You almost never want to use an impact driver for regular bike maintenance, but for extreme circumstances, I’d rather spend 2 seconds with an impact driver than several minutes of torsional force applied to my spokes.
This is the best video of Service bearings. Thank you.
You are very welcome!
Very clear and concise. Thanks. Thinking of changing my DT 240 stainless bearings and upgrading to the ceramic 110 bearing. Probably don’t need it but I like upgrading stuff.
This was an easy to follow explanation. I've added this video to my 'preventive maintenance' list. Thanks for taking the time to do the video, and thanks for the link to the ratchet tool.
Thanks for the vid, it was informative and useful. You said to keep a bearing in at all times. I overlooked this at some point and wished I hadn't. No huge big deal, just a bit more hassle.
Yeah its not the end of the world but it can be a bit difficult and scary when trying to get the bearing in and seeing it on a big angle 🤣 Glad you got it sorted out 👍
Thanks for this video, it helped a lot, I just did front and rear DT Swiss hub bearings change, for the rear I bought the DT swiss ring nut remover (for 3 pawl) and it work over the axle, still needed a lot of strenght to unscrew it. I had more hard time getting out the bearing taping on the axle and then taping them in with a socket, had to hit really hard (wheels on a large piece of wood on the ground, drilled a hole for the axle to go in...) I felt like destroying stuff so a bit scary but it's all done without trouble. Thanks again!
Glad it all worked out for ya! I did this job on a DT swiss 240s a while ago and the bearings were very hard to hit out and hit in! I really don't see the purpose of having such a tight fit for the bearings but thats why I noted in the video if you got actual dt swiss hubs you have to use a lot of force and doing it for the first time you are right its pretty scary, but once done it gives a good sense of accomplishment :)
@@MTBfixHQ Yeah I dont know why its that hard, last week I changed the 10 bearings in my Canyon Spectral frame (bike has 10 000kms), it was nowhere as difficult as the wheels hubs bearings (good thing because having to hammer like a maniac on a frame would be risky ahah)
Well done. Good tricks. Thanks
Excellent video! Thank you.
excelente video... gracias...saludos desde Venezuela
Cheers to this man thanks!
I wanted to replace my old DT Swiss 370 bearings to a hybrid bearings. How many bearings do i need to get for the front and rear? And what size and model? Thanks
Sorry I do not know which size bearings all the dt swiss hubs use but you can easily find this out by just taking the end caps off and reading the numbers on the bearings seals, you can also use this link to search for your specific hubs, then you scroll down to see which components the hub uses and it will give you bearing sizes, Cheers!
www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support#filter
Got it thank you
What is that cup used as a spacer? Is that a section of PVC Pipe?
that is correct, but almost all materials will work, if using metal just lay a rag or two on top so it does not damage the hub
Great video. I was looking to replace my bearing on my dt swiss.
Anyway, that homemade hub holder/support...what did you use. It looks like a piece of PVC pipe? If so what size diameter.
I've seen other videos that have an actual hub support tool, but I cant seem to find it anywhere or don't know what it's call.
Anyway thanks for the video, gives me a better understanding of what I need to do.
Ps. Can you show a video on how to do the front hubs?
Glad it helps! As for the hub support yes its just a piece of PVC pipe I had laying around, for the size its best to measure your hub to find out what size you need, just make sure its not so big that it rests on the spokes and should be good to go. The front hub is actually a lot easier, its basically the same as the rear hub but without the ring nut, I may end up making a video doing the front wheel in the future! cheers
How can I do tha front wheel? I'm from San Diego California
ruclips.net/video/0sDdvh1Zf_c/видео.html
check my other videos, i made one for the front hub! cheers
Remember kids: unless you like doing to work twice, don't use cheapo bearings. I'm not saying you need to go out and buy SKF bearings, but buying crappy aliexpress bearings going to last like you expect them to last.
I tend to agree, especially if you don't potentially want to do the work twice, that being said I got a 10 pack of bearing from aliexpress for $10, they have lasted over two years in my hubs and still spin as smooth as when I installed them. The reason cheap bearings can work ok is because there is very little forces and RPM on wheel bearings compared to other applications. If you ride your bike through deep water and completely submerge the hub then good quality bearings will help because of their better seals.
Which bearings did you buy from AE? @@MTBfixHQ
Thank you!
Thanks for the help. Quick question, @ 6:09 it seems like the old bearing is being pressed back in to guide the opposite bearing in. Could you have pressed a new new one in at this time?
You do not want to install the new bearing at that time because if you watch my video you will see that you need to hit that bearing back out again, better to install old bearing for that purpose, hitting a new bearing out can cause damage to it. The reason that bearing has to be hit out again is because the axle is in the way of the tool when tightening the ring back in place, if you have a tool that fits over the axle then yes you can install a new bearing at that time because you will not need to hit it out again.
@@MTBfixHQ Ok, that makes sense. Thank you
Thanks for this. It seemed to work when I did it and the axle spins freely when not on the bike. But then it seizes when installed on the bike. Did the bearing just not seat properly?
if it seizes when you tighten the wheel on the bike it can only mean that you did not hit the bearings fully to the end, when you remove the cassette and grab the axle and pull it in and out, if there is movement they need to be hit in further, it could maybe also be the spacer that goes on the axle where the ratchets go maybe you forgot to put it back on because sometimes people forget that.
@@MTBfixHQ awesome, thanks! Working well now, seemed like it just needed another mm!
Did you pop out the old bearing twice on the passenger side. Why not just replace it the first time you took it out?
If you watch the whole video I explain why I hit it out twice, there is no point in installing the new bearing the first time when I know I have to hit it out again since it can sometimes cause damage to the bearing. I explain at 5:45 in the video why that is, but ill explain in further detail. To remove the lock ring nut with the dt swiss tool I need to remove the axle because its in the way which means I need to hit the bearings out on the other side to get the axle out of the way, but as I explain in the video you never want both bearings removed at same time or it can become very difficult to hit the bearing in. The only reason I am pressing that bearing back in is so that the other bearings aligns itself much much easier when hitting it in. If my DT swiss tool managed to fit over the axle I would not need to hit the other bearing out twice, but since it doesn't fit and I need to get the axle out of the way hitting the other bearings out twice is the only way, I would imagine the original DT swiss tool fits over the axle which saves you the extra step, hopefully that makes sense
👍Полезное видео
thank you
very nice
4:10 Oh my god! That's the scariest movie i ever seen! 😜 I've been almost shit out.
FWIW you don't actually have to remove the ratchet ring on a true DT hub. Also, the drive side bearing is not a 6902 bearing as shown here. On DT hubs it is a 15267 which is an angular contact bearing. It can be pressed in and out (and that thin washer as well) with clearance of the ratchet ring. It's possible this knockoff hub used in the video is two 6902 bearings but on a true DT rear hub they are different bearings. A 6902 is 28mm OD and the 15267 is a 26mm OD (and thus will clear the ratchet ring without having to remove it).
Sorry but I think you are incorrect, DT swiss MTB 240s Hubs of this design (not the new EXP Hubs) use 2x 6902 bearings, also you have to remove the ratchet rings when removing the bearing, here is a link to DT swiss website, same hub design as this knockoff, scroll down and click the + beside Hub and it will show all the parts, you will see 6902 bearing and if you click the (show all) drop down list it shows it uses 2x of them
www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support?matnr=H24PTCDBR28SA7740S
Have a good day
You're thinking of the 240 EXP that uses the 1526 bearing. Why they changed to this stupid thing over the 6902, I have no idea, the 6902 is a superior bearing
@trick1420
Of course you are wrong.
To add another element to the plot, I have a DT Swiss XMC Spline 1200 wheel set. It has hubs labeled "240", but is a bit different in its design. The non-drive side rear has a 6802 (15x24x5) and the driveside has a 15267 (15x26x7). However, with everything dissembled the old bearing will not pass through the racket ring. It starts but it doesn't take much to bind it, and same with a washer. This is on an old rachet ring so there is some wear. I'd not advice trying to push that bearing through the ring.
On individual hubs from model year 2015 onwards, ball bearings with a smaller outside diameter (Ø 26 mm)
are installed on the drive side. This allows the ball bearing to be replaced without removing the ring nut.
For all other hubs, the ring nut must be removed in order to change the ball bearing on the drive side. Before
further disassembly steps check which hub version is available.
use good quality vice, cheap chinese junk will crack easily if you try to remove the threaded ring
This is correct, the vice in the video broke a few months after this video when trying to take the ring out again LOL, got a nice heavy duty one now
*rob warner noises*!!!
lol, OOOAAAHHHHHH
you are hitting ball pockets in bearings, buy a real tool for it
you make no sense, explain please
@@MTBfixHQ if you hit bearing gasket you might bend it, and it can cause balls to rub against bearing rims or gasket
@@michalfilipowicz4663 if you watch the whole video you will see the socket I use is almost exact size of outer race of the bearing so that is literally impossible to happen, there is no chance the socket hits the bearing seal or the balls, also the title of this video is "HOW TO CHANGE DT SWISS BEARINGS WITH HOME TOOLS"
I watched it before on Phone and it looked different, mb
To get that stubborn lock ring off, rent an impact driver. You almost never want to use an impact driver for regular bike maintenance, but for extreme circumstances, I’d rather spend 2 seconds with an impact driver than several minutes of torsional force applied to my spokes.