For the new or unskilled mechanic- DT-Swiss ratchet style; you'll feel like a hero and they'll do the job. For the brand and price snob who'll never touch their own stuff- Chris King. For you finicky roadie type MTBer's; titanium loose bearing style Shimano XTR's. Artsy hipster colorway stylists need Hope for sure, and those folks who absolutely *need* THE most complex of techy-tech; Industry Nine. For the frugal or parsimonious, it's hard to go wrong with Shimano hubs of whatever series you rock personally, and for myself Hadley. The rest is mostly rebadged or rubbish or both- 'nuff said.
Very important fact that it overlooked quite often. The amount of engagement points in a freehub does not correspond to the angle of the pedal movement. It just refers to the movement of the cassette. If you are in a very low gear at the back you have to move your pedals a lot more to get the freehub body to engage.
@RollinRat You're right, but judging by some comments most people - especially roadies - just like how these hubs sound. That said, I am really happy with my 18t DT Swiss 350.
@RollinRat Why are Chris King bearings the best? I can't afford em but still interested because tech nerd XD Yes you may not need the high engagement that often but wuy not get it just in case?😀
@RollinRat My comment somehow didn't get postet so here we go again. I only read half of your book. CK Is what exactly? I assume C for ceramic? Not a good idea on an MTB that takes hits and shatter all the time. In the end they are also just in a steel housing wich means that in the end they shouldn't really last that much longer. With the pawls... I did mention high engagement yes. I didn't mention the dt star ratchet system tho. Just look at Industry nine with their 690 POE hub with pawls.. I would love to have that hub because it just works but also very very expensive. About 100 POE you can get pretty cheap. Look at this😎👌 www.trekbikes.com/de/de_DE/equipment/fahrradkomponenten/fahrradlaufr%C3%A4der/mountainbike-laufr%C3%A4der--laufradsatz/bontrager-line-comp-30-tlr-boost-27-5-mtb-laufrad/p/34497/?colorCode=black
Dunno HOW you do it Doddy! How the fook do you make EVERYTHING enjoyable and interesting. Absolute natural mate. Keep up the amazing work. GMBN IS Diddy, Blake and Neil 🤘
Yeah have to agree, I have DT350s and they're absolute rubbish. Why DT even make the 350 is mind-boggling because it's such a shit system. It just ruins their reputation I mean fees are absolute horrible hubs entry-level shite. 🤦♂️ @dtswiss
i watch a lot of videos and In my opinion you are top of the line when it comes to in depth concise information ,gmbn blessed to have you.That said the whole team is on point I learn a lot from you blokes!!!! Cheers
Here's me, with a 6 bolt rotor on the rear, and a centrelock on the front. Stock is centrelock.. I have gotten myself a custom wheel, and the hub (project 321 boost) only comes with a 6 bolt mount. Rim is a Flow MK3. For those wondering: Loud, 216 POE, standard bearings, gold. 2020 Trance 2.
Very informative, thank you. Currently rebuilding my very old ('07) Shimano Parallax Hubs. Can't believe they are still going strong with no replacement parts! These hubs are super quiet, I love the feeling when I am out on the trail alone, very peaceful.
I love my bike more and more with every upgrade so far, maintenance tweak, and educational vid. I do at the present have a slight crunchy sound coming from the rear hub still even after a maintenance at a bike shop. They fixed the pedals from slipping ahead, which happened every now and again, but the crunchy is still there a bit mildly rumbling through the bike while pedaling. Maybe they added some grease somehow without actually taking anything apart. Who knows? I have the Shimano FH-MT410-B Microspline Rear Freehub.
Just a side note, the cassetes that have multiple parts and are made out of steel , will cut also through a microspline freehub body. It is the difference of material steel (hard) like on a cheaper deore cassette and aluminium (soft) on the freehub.
Great comprehensive guide! Maybe a little addition to the axle part: DT Swiss hubs can be changed from thru-axle to quickrelease via adaptor. So my 135mm-QR-boys can just buy (compatible) 142mm DT hubs and adaptors. Had to search the whole Internet twice for this info...
A lot of even fairly expensive bikes come with OEM hubs that often made by companies like formula. They often aren’t the best and seem to be more difficult to service. It would be great to have a video on servicing formula OEM hubs. I know we can upgrade to a better set of hubs/wheels but I want to get as much use as possible out if the OEM ones.
There's this 3rd kind of hubs needed to be added, on Industry-9 presentation, don't know the production model, it's double-bearing hub that has 2 rolling ball bearing sleeves and either engages due to rotation, having no buzz while riding. Making XC rides smoother on tarmac (not on gravel), having 1-2% more efficiency than regular hub.
I actually stripped my DT Swiss rear hub threads on the free hub n my local stockest said he’d never seen anything like it before.! Opted for the Hope pro4 BOOST never looked bavk
The lateral or fore-aft stiffness of a spoke has _nothing_ to do with the stiffness of the wheel, because the spokes aren't fixed at the ends. Only tension, bracing angle, cross pattern, and elongation (related to butting vs straight gauge) affect the wheel stiffness
Thanks for the explanation on engagement. About the bodies, I think microspline is much better, the smaller cogs being separate from the rest of the cassette.
Excellent video, wish I had seen this before I built my last set of wheels. I appreciate the “why” you include in selecting hubs. When you’re learning, knowing what each component does and why it is used would have been helpful. I used shimano XT hubs last time but thinking about the DTSwiss 350. The XTs worked great on my recent 45 mile weekend
This is definitely a great overview of hubs however I feel as if you should have mentioned the instantaneous engagement system from onyx that uses a sprag clutch. Also I can understand why you may prefer the ratchet system over pawls, however its worth noting that the I9 hydra achieves .52 degrees of engagement using the pawl system. This system should have received more content time however seeing as DT sponsored this video I can understand why the pawl and sprag systems didn't get any love even though they are the superior systems when it comes to instant engagement. Love the content.
The Onyx/Sprag system is great, I've used the Classic model for 4 years. Spins great when not pedaling but as an ultra endurance rider/racer I don't glide often. For XC they're too heavy and the spongy feeling you get with this hub especially with the Vespar is lost efficiency. You get instant engagement yes, yet, it actually gives a bit everytime you lay into the watts when the sprags are finding their home in the hub (when you accelerate or go up a hill). The longer the race or ride the more lost efficiency. Love the Oynx hub on the casual trail ride, for the casual rider or even for the down hill type but when racing especially at distances from 50-100 miles not the best choice.
My all- city hubs are awesome and dead quiet!! Great vid guys but i dont like when it sounds like a nest of pissed off bees are on my arse the whole ride. To me it's like a car with a really loud exhaust ....I like it quiet.
Pedal kickback is better on high engagement hubs. On low engagement hubs it's a surprise when it kicksback if you've just clicked over a ratchet or pawl.
Bmx has settled on 36 spokes. Alienation tried to introduce 28 to the front but 36 has remained the dominant. Nice and stiff yet not too heavy plus 36 is really nice for both 3 and 4 cross lacing with 3 Cross being the more popular lacing, especially with home wheel builders. Tree tried to bring straight pull to Freestyle-bmx but even racers still seem to favour traditional J bends. An Argos Special some years back was a garish gold with 48 spoke wheels but it was a gimmick. Disc brakes have kind of killed the 36 vibe for mtb. I've seen a retro build with a bmx front hub as the old looseball was snagged and couldn't be replaced so he went for cheap and available.
The Berd spokes kind of turn everything you explained about how spokes work on its head... Spokes actually work under tension not compression, meaning they pull the rim toward the hub not hold it out. Would love to see you talk about Berd spokes.
Not a hub question, but every time I see those totems on your wall, I wonder if anybody ever bastardised a set of totems with a set of fox 40 lowers to suit 27.5 or 29er wheels. Seems like a viable experiment
Just bought a pair of Industry 9 hubs to build up a sweet high end wheel set from the OEM wheels I have now. Thanks for the information about the spokes, especially the reasons why bladed spokes would be used for MTB. Very informative and timely for me.
I know 15mm is the standard for the front axle but can you please explain why we don't we see 20mm thru-axles on the new "super enduro" 38mm ZEB and FOX and 37mm Mezzer forks? The new 38mm and 37mm stanchion forks are designed to be stronger and stiffer which seems to be a good thing for fast dh/enduro riding right? Wouldn't it make sense to continue that trend and make the thru-axle stiffer? As you have mentioned there seems to be a "stiffness sweet spot" for wheels and bars, would a 20mm thru-axle be too stiff as opposed to the standard 15mm? Also why is the rear axle 12mm and not 15mm?? Logically a thicker thru axle would make the rear end stiffer thus reducing lateral flex and resulting in better tracking and cornering at speed. Please offer your thoughts/opinions.
I hope DT Swiss fixed the problems with the new Exp hubs not engaging with their newest version. Check out their website to see if your hub is affected
I think I will try Microspline, I've told about the Microspoline not getting chewed up by people who had it. SO if I am able to get a Microspline freehub I will upgrade it.
I have 2021 Deore XT hub in the rear and it makes a creaking noise with hard pedaling. I've had it taken apart and regreased, which solved the noise for about 100 miles and it came right back, any ideas?
Doddy, 15:27 - Microspline can't slip or get damaged? I've seen on RUclips lots of cases of Microspline getting gouged by the cassette. Problem is not a freehub body, but Shimano cassette construction (I'm referring to loose gears, which cut into freehub body) - Sram got a much better solution. With XD driver, my freehub body looks like new after 3 years of intensive use and few thousand kilometres.
It really depends not on the travel but the suspension design. There are some shorter travel bikes with lots of chain growth, some longer travel bikes with small amounts of chain growth and vice versa. The most extreme example of the latter being single pivot designs with idler wheels which have no chain growth at all no matter the travel. Doddy on his Nukeproof Reactor fitted a system at the cranks which introduces a bit of give/delay to replicate the effect of a slower engagement in order to tackle pedal kickback, so obviously the chaingrowth on his bike was too much for the speed of hub engagement.
Hello Doddys from Madeira island, congrats on the amazing program. Question time, now he are seeing people up sizing the rotors liking four more power in the braking aspect. But bigger can bring more stress in the suspension and frame mountings. Is this anything to keep in mind?? Thanks and keep the amazing work going 👍👍👌👌
great video as always Doddy. I recently purchased a preowned 2017 Scott Spark 940, the previous owner upgraded the wheels to DT SWISS X1825. I cant find any info as to what hub it comes with. it is the 240?
My last project only left onions in my wallet... I always need to cry when I´m open it now. Since we have mostly super loamy terrain, I chose to go light on the tire and pair it with cushcore. To me that was my perfect solution. Together with the high engagement, I definitely have more control on steep ascents. I chose to go 30mm/2.0-1.8-2.0/3x3 this time. It was expensive... but worth it.
I have a 240 front hub that has play in the bearings and its only the thing that i have never done on my bike by my self replacing them i mean and i would love to see how its done.
I mostly ride single speed mountain bikes for me durability and engagement are my priorities. From my experience nothing more durable then DT Swiss, I run the 54 for more engagement. I have had poor luck with I-9 classics, I destroy them in a few months. I have one year on Onynx classic (very heavy) on my geared hardtail, love the instant engagement and silence, they have slightly squishy feel that the mt DT 240's dont have but it's not necessarily bad just different. I am going to build a new supper light single speed and would love a DT 180 wheelset just not excited about the price$ of the 180's is the $$ worth 60 grams per wheel???
I have a question for you tech guys. If that hub that you have there had a 20" counter weight running inside the spokes of the standard wheel, but in the opposite direction, would that cancel out the gyroscopic limitations of larger wheels in downhill applications? Would that allow faster directional changes? Has this ever been tested?
I was wondering about the 141 qr boost spacing (for a rear hub), and fitting replacement hubs for them. I don't see this spacing from major hub manufacturers. I have seen limited info that I can get 142 hubs, and use an adapter kit, and was wondering if this is the route to go when I upgrade my hubs
If you’re in a high gear for peddle sections on dh trails, while descending, if you are going at a speed that if you tried to peddle, and the hub engaged, the same peddle kickback would happen at the same speed through rough terrain when the suspension compressed right? In a high gear seems you would get peddle kickback slowing/braking bumps and exiting every turn with rough terrain to get back up to speed right? And higher hub engagement would just make the kickback worse?
#AskGMBNTech For their own prebuilt wheels DT uses 28 spokes in all of them, even Enduro or eMTB models. Does this make sense? For years and years as you also mentioned, 28 was advertised for lighter riders and/or CC use. Are they going too far?
#ASKGMBNtech across your various videos, you’ve all used a Garmin of some description, I’m looking into changing out my current smart watch for something more sports oriented and wanted your thoughts on say the Fenix vs Apple Watch 6, etc Thanks
If you have a bolt through rear hub is it usually possible to upgrade the old style freehub body to an xd / microspline version?.. or is a whole new hub likely to be required?
I am going into the 3rd week waiting for a delivery for a Shimano free hub for my 2020 Specialized Turbo Levo . They say in it shipping but can't say when it will arrive . Summer flying by and I can't ride. The number on mine is fh-mt510-b . Would any of the other models be compatible ? I need the 28 hole version.
What do you look for in a set of hubs? Let us know 👇
For the new or unskilled mechanic- DT-Swiss ratchet style; you'll feel like a hero and they'll do the job. For the brand and price snob who'll never touch their own stuff- Chris King. For you finicky roadie type MTBer's; titanium loose bearing style Shimano XTR's. Artsy hipster colorway stylists need Hope for sure, and those folks who absolutely *need* THE most complex of techy-tech; Industry Nine. For the frugal or parsimonious, it's hard to go wrong with Shimano hubs of whatever series you rock personally, and for myself Hadley. The rest is mostly rebadged or rubbish or both- 'nuff said.
Generally, how much noise is generated whilst free wheeling .
mostly..sound and ease of maintenance
can you do a video about bottom brackets if there isnt already one
We need a wheel building guide!
Stop playing music in your videos.
When I was a child, I dream of being a doctor. Now I dream of having Doddy as my neighbor. Man.
Have probably watched this video on hubs three or four times. And still get something from it every time. Many thanks.
Very important fact that it overlooked quite often. The amount of engagement points in a freehub does not correspond to the angle of the pedal movement. It just refers to the movement of the cassette. If you are in a very low gear at the back you have to move your pedals a lot more to get the freehub body to engage.
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
Wich ppl don't realize is a thing somehow.
@RollinRat You're right, but judging by some comments most people - especially roadies - just like how these hubs sound. That said, I am really happy with my 18t DT Swiss 350.
@RollinRat Why are Chris King bearings the best? I can't afford em but still interested because tech nerd XD
Yes you may not need the high engagement that often but wuy not get it just in case?😀
@RollinRat My comment somehow didn't get postet so here we go again.
I only read half of your book. CK Is what exactly? I assume C for ceramic? Not a good idea on an MTB that takes hits and shatter all the time. In the end they are also just in a steel housing wich means that in the end they shouldn't really last that much longer.
With the pawls... I did mention high engagement yes. I didn't mention the dt star ratchet system tho.
Just look at Industry nine with their 690 POE hub with pawls.. I would love to have that hub because it just works but also very very expensive.
About 100 POE you can get pretty cheap. Look at this😎👌
www.trekbikes.com/de/de_DE/equipment/fahrradkomponenten/fahrradlaufr%C3%A4der/mountainbike-laufr%C3%A4der--laufradsatz/bontrager-line-comp-30-tlr-boost-27-5-mtb-laufrad/p/34497/?colorCode=black
All time best tech explainer, best in class use of dynamic closeups to create clear visuals for key points.
Dunno HOW you do it Doddy! How the fook do you make EVERYTHING enjoyable and interesting. Absolute natural mate. Keep up the amazing work. GMBN IS Diddy, Blake and Neil 🤘
Glad I bought some quality hubs. Can't go wrong with Hope Pro 4's
I also want those hubs, dream hubs for me actually
Same. Loving my HP4’s 👍🏽
IMO they are the best deal for quality hubs. 350s are good too but if you're going to upgrade the rachet it adds to the cost.
No apostrophe...
Yeah have to agree, I have DT350s and they're absolute rubbish. Why DT even make the 350 is mind-boggling because it's such a shit system. It just ruins their reputation I mean fees are absolute horrible hubs entry-level shite. 🤦♂️ @dtswiss
I am picking up my new Chris King/DT Swiss wheels tomorrow, nice to have this video today for some extra info :)
Can't go wrong with Chris king hubs
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
Now that sounds sweet! Enjoy the swarming bees!!!
@RollinRat Ha, ha! Where there's a CK discussion, there's Rollin' Rat!
i watch a lot of videos and In my opinion you are top of the line when it comes to in depth concise information ,gmbn blessed to have you.That said the whole team is on point I learn a lot from you blokes!!!! Cheers
Here's me, with a 6 bolt rotor on the rear, and a centrelock on the front. Stock is centrelock.. I have gotten myself a custom wheel, and the hub (project 321 boost) only comes with a 6 bolt mount. Rim is a Flow MK3.
For those wondering:
Loud, 216 POE, standard bearings, gold.
2020 Trance 2.
Very informative, thank you.
Currently rebuilding my very old ('07) Shimano Parallax Hubs. Can't believe they are still going strong with no replacement parts! These hubs are super quiet, I love the feeling when I am out on the trail alone, very peaceful.
I like louder hubs. The louder the better
I remember the rear hub on at least one of my early mountain bikes having a 130mm rear hub. Then it went 135mm when 7 speed cassettes came out.
I love my bike more and more with every upgrade so far, maintenance tweak, and educational vid. I do at the present have a slight crunchy sound coming from the rear hub still even after a maintenance at a bike shop. They fixed the pedals from slipping ahead, which happened every now and again, but the crunchy is still there a bit mildly rumbling through the bike while pedaling. Maybe they added some grease somehow without actually taking anything apart. Who knows?
I have the Shimano FH-MT410-B Microspline Rear Freehub.
Just a side note, the cassetes that have multiple parts and are made out of steel , will cut also through a microspline freehub body. It is the difference of material steel (hard) like on a cheaper deore cassette and aluminium (soft) on the freehub.
Thanks Doddy, that's the most comprehensive video I've seen on hubs. Lots of great info.
Wow, I’ve been trying to learn this for 6 months and this explained it all!!
5:36 you forgot to mention the other option of lock ring, the bb-tool one. 15mm axels (front hubs) can only have that
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
Great video with every detail from someone who knows what he's talking about.
Damnit, Doddy. Just when I thought I had hubs somewhat figured out you throw in kickback?? Now I gotta learn a little more.
Wow, this was super informative. I'm going to rewatch and take notes.
Great comprehensive guide!
Maybe a little addition to the axle part: DT Swiss hubs can be changed from thru-axle to quickrelease via adaptor. So my 135mm-QR-boys can just buy (compatible) 142mm DT hubs and adaptors. Had to search the whole Internet twice for this info...
Same with your 141 boys too
Hope has been doing that for years. $15-$20 for endcaps.
Don't forget the 370 hubs that come stock on some bikes
Yes that’s what I have.
A lot of even fairly expensive bikes come with OEM hubs that often made by companies like formula. They often aren’t the best and seem to be more difficult to service. It would be great to have a video on servicing formula OEM hubs. I know we can upgrade to a better set of hubs/wheels but I want to get as much use as possible out if the OEM ones.
Formula are sealed freehubs and so is just easier to replace the entire unit.
Excellent overview - you’ve clarified several topics I had been wondering about for some time. Thanks!
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
There's this 3rd kind of hubs needed to be added, on Industry-9 presentation, don't know the production model, it's double-bearing hub that has 2 rolling ball bearing sleeves and either engages due to rotation, having no buzz while riding. Making XC rides smoother on tarmac (not on gravel), having 1-2% more efficiency than regular hub.
I actually stripped my DT Swiss rear hub threads on the free hub n my local stockest said he’d never seen anything like it before.! Opted for the Hope pro4 BOOST never looked bavk
The lateral or fore-aft stiffness of a spoke has _nothing_ to do with the stiffness of the wheel, because the spokes aren't fixed at the ends. Only tension, bracing angle, cross pattern, and elongation (related to butting vs straight gauge) affect the wheel stiffness
Thanks for the explanation on engagement. About the bodies, I think microspline is much better, the smaller cogs being separate from the rest of the cassette.
Excellent video, wish I had seen this before I built my last set of wheels. I appreciate the “why” you include in selecting hubs. When you’re learning, knowing what each component does and why it is used would have been helpful. I used shimano XT hubs last time but thinking about the DTSwiss 350. The XTs worked great on my recent 45 mile weekend
I managed to break some spokes at the J bend, although I had a car door opened on me when I was accelerating and ended up on morphine for the pain!
I just bought my gf a new wheelset from dt swiss (370hubs). Their wheels are so well made!
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
Fk'ing Doddy knows *everything* about bikes. It's amazing.
Quicker engagement for obstacle and technical riding as well
Doesn't really make a difference.
Oh Yes it does. It's the exact reason why I upgraded. Need it on super techy uphill climbs.
This has been very informative and will help with diagnosing any issues 👌🏻.
More videos like this are needed for idiots like me.
Great to see you found this video useful @MTB trail rider! Be sure to keep an eye out for more advanced mechanical videos like this one in 2022! 👍
This is definitely a great overview of hubs however I feel as if you should have mentioned the instantaneous engagement system from onyx that uses a sprag clutch. Also I can understand why you may prefer the ratchet system over pawls, however its worth noting that the I9 hydra achieves .52 degrees of engagement using the pawl system. This system should have received more content time however seeing as DT sponsored this video I can understand why the pawl and sprag systems didn't get any love even though they are the superior systems when it comes to instant engagement. Love the content.
The Onyx/Sprag system is great, I've used the Classic model for 4 years. Spins great when not pedaling but as an ultra endurance rider/racer I don't glide often. For XC they're too heavy and the spongy feeling you get with this hub especially with the Vespar is lost efficiency. You get instant engagement yes, yet, it actually gives a bit everytime you lay into the watts when the sprags are finding their home in the hub (when you accelerate or go up a hill). The longer the race or ride the more lost efficiency. Love the Oynx hub on the casual trail ride, for the casual rider or even for the down hill type but when racing especially at distances from 50-100 miles not the best choice.
I would not do a trail spoke replacement, but great information
Great video.
You are the best.
Greeting from Costa Rica central america.
My all- city hubs are awesome and dead quiet!! Great vid guys but i dont like when it sounds like a nest of pissed off bees are on my arse the whole ride. To me it's like a car with a really loud exhaust ....I like it quiet.
Pedal kickback is better on high engagement hubs. On low engagement hubs it's a surprise when it kicksback if you've just clicked over a ratchet or pawl.
Bmx has settled on 36 spokes. Alienation tried to introduce 28 to the front but 36 has remained the dominant. Nice and stiff yet not too heavy plus 36 is really nice for both 3 and 4 cross lacing with 3 Cross being the more popular lacing, especially with home wheel builders. Tree tried to bring straight pull to Freestyle-bmx but even racers still seem to favour traditional J bends. An Argos Special some years back was a garish gold with 48 spoke wheels but it was a gimmick.
Disc brakes have kind of killed the 36 vibe for mtb. I've seen a retro build with a bmx front hub as the old looseball was snagged and couldn't be replaced so he went for cheap and available.
The Berd spokes kind of turn everything you explained about how spokes work on its head... Spokes actually work under tension not compression, meaning they pull the rim toward the hub not hold it out. Would love to see you talk about Berd spokes.
Amazing, detailed explanation guys!
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
Could you talk about how to measure spoke length for a straight pull hub wheel build?
Not a hub question, but every time I see those totems on your wall, I wonder if anybody ever bastardised a set of totems with a set of fox 40 lowers to suit 27.5 or 29er wheels. Seems like a viable experiment
Great video! I have been waiting for this for long. Cheers!
Great overview. Thanks gents
Just bought a pair of Industry 9 hubs to build up a sweet high end wheel set from the OEM wheels I have now. Thanks for the information about the spokes, especially the reasons why bladed spokes would be used for MTB. Very informative and timely for me.
Doddy should know that straight gauge are not stronger than butted spokes! Surprised DT didn't poke him on that :)
Are 240 hubs EXP-exclusive now? I prefer the old ratchet style as I don't have to unscrew anything if I ever upgrade for a finer engagement.
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
Great video as always, but you didn't mention any sprague type hubs, for example Onyx.
I know 15mm is the standard for the front axle but can you please explain why we don't we see 20mm thru-axles on the new "super enduro" 38mm ZEB and FOX and 37mm Mezzer forks? The new 38mm and 37mm stanchion forks are designed to be stronger and stiffer which seems to be a good thing for fast dh/enduro riding right? Wouldn't it make sense to continue that trend and make the thru-axle stiffer? As you have mentioned there seems to be a "stiffness sweet spot" for wheels and bars, would a 20mm thru-axle be too stiff as opposed to the standard 15mm? Also why is the rear axle 12mm and not 15mm?? Logically a thicker thru axle would make the rear end stiffer thus reducing lateral flex and resulting in better tracking and cornering at speed. Please offer your thoughts/opinions.
I hope DT Swiss fixed the problems with the new Exp hubs not engaging with their newest version. Check out their website to see if your hub is affected
I have that problem with my 240 exp.
I think I will try Microspline, I've told about the Microspoline not getting chewed up by people who had it. SO if I am able to get a Microspline freehub I will upgrade it.
I have 2021 Deore XT hub in the rear and it makes a creaking noise with hard pedaling. I've had it taken apart and regreased, which solved the noise for about 100 miles and it came right back, any ideas?
Lol, "bespoke wheels", good one!
Thicknesses of spokes that you can put on 36 spoke hub for mountain bike different sizes that upgrade
Doddy, 15:27 - Microspline can't slip or get damaged? I've seen on RUclips lots of cases of Microspline getting gouged by the cassette. Problem is not a freehub body, but Shimano cassette construction (I'm referring to loose gears, which cut into freehub body) - Sram got a much better solution. With XD driver, my freehub body looks like new after 3 years of intensive use and few thousand kilometres.
The best hub video. Gracias
Glad you think so Dennis! Hope it helps
Hey Doddy, can I use bearings specific grease to lube the ratchets of the free hub? Thanks
sir. . many thanks! very informative
How much rear travel before you have to worry about kick back with higher engagement?
It really depends not on the travel but the suspension design. There are some shorter travel bikes with lots of chain growth, some longer travel bikes with small amounts of chain growth and vice versa. The most extreme example of the latter being single pivot designs with idler wheels which have no chain growth at all no matter the travel. Doddy on his Nukeproof Reactor fitted a system at the cranks which introduces a bit of give/delay to replicate the effect of a slower engagement in order to tackle pedal kickback, so obviously the chaingrowth on his bike was too much for the speed of hub engagement.
Couldn’t get hold of DT Swiss wheels for love or money
I gained knowledge by watching this but no good will transfer because my bicycle is of the Freewheel old school design.
Me gusta mucho toda la formación que proporciona, ojalá pudieran subtitular los blogs
Nicely done guys, thanks
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
If I'm trying to upgrade my wheels. Should I just focus on both Hubs or just the rear?
Hello Doddys from Madeira island, congrats on the amazing program. Question time, now he are seeing people up sizing the rotors liking four more power in the braking aspect. But bigger can bring more stress in the suspension and frame mountings. Is this anything to keep in mind??
Thanks and keep the amazing work going 👍👍👌👌
great video as always Doddy. I recently purchased a preowned 2017 Scott Spark 940, the previous owner upgraded the wheels to DT SWISS X1825. I cant find any info as to what hub it comes with. it is the 240?
If you have a bike with a 160mm fork and 142mm rear travel, would upgrading your ratchet from 36t to 54t be more or less advantageous?
So great! Not much more to say.
What’s your opinion on magnetic hubs?
Good Video ❤️
Whats the difference between a Road hub and a MTB hub?
what would happen if you don't use the special grease with the ratchet system?
Just got 6 pawl wheel set they came without any grease or oil it seems.. should I apply any?
What about industry nine? Whole new level
My last project only left onions in my wallet... I always need to cry when I´m open it now. Since we have mostly super loamy terrain, I chose to go light on the tire and pair it with cushcore. To me that was my perfect solution. Together with the high engagement, I definitely have more control on steep ascents. I chose to go 30mm/2.0-1.8-2.0/3x3 this time. It was expensive... but worth it.
I have a 240 front hub that has play in the bearings and its only the thing that i have never done on my bike by my self replacing them i mean and i would love to see how its done.
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
Are the three freehub types interchangeable? Can you swap a Shimano for an XD?
The only thing I don’t like about dt hubs is having to remove the drive ring to remove the inner hub bearing.
I mostly ride single speed mountain bikes for me durability and engagement are my priorities. From my experience nothing more durable then DT Swiss, I run the 54 for more engagement. I have had poor luck with I-9 classics, I destroy them in a few months. I have one year on Onynx classic (very heavy) on my geared hardtail, love the instant engagement and silence, they have slightly squishy feel that the mt DT 240's dont have but it's not necessarily bad just different. I am going to build a new supper light single speed and would love a DT 180 wheelset just not excited about the price$ of the 180's is the $$ worth 60 grams per wheel???
What damage can be caused if I don’t grease my hubs regularly can it cause a loss in speed ?
I have a question for you tech guys. If that hub that you have there had a 20" counter weight running inside the spokes of the standard wheel, but in the opposite direction, would that cancel out the gyroscopic limitations of larger wheels in downhill applications? Would that allow faster directional changes? Has this ever been tested?
Can the two bearings in the dt 350 hub be replaced without disassembling the ring nut?
The most important mountain bike rear hub standards (170/177mm and 190/197mm) haven't been mentioned.
I was wondering about the 141 qr boost spacing (for a rear hub), and fitting replacement hubs for them. I don't see this spacing from major hub manufacturers. I have seen limited info that I can get 142 hubs, and use an adapter kit, and was wondering if this is the route to go when I upgrade my hubs
I have the 141 qr on my bike, it's basically a 148 (boost) with different end caps
Onyx Vesper 💪
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
If you’re in a high gear for peddle sections on dh trails, while descending, if you are going at a speed that if you tried to peddle, and the hub engaged, the same peddle kickback would happen at the same speed through rough terrain when the suspension compressed right?
In a high gear seems you would get peddle kickback slowing/braking bumps and exiting every turn with rough terrain to get back up to speed right? And higher hub engagement would just make the kickback worse?
Could you touch on sprag clutch hubs?
#AskGMBNTech For their own prebuilt wheels DT uses 28 spokes in all of them, even Enduro or eMTB models. Does this make sense? For years and years as you also mentioned, 28 was advertised for lighter riders and/or CC use. Are they going too far?
ruclips.net/video/w4nYsMGknwE/видео.html
I9. No touching of spokes. 690 poi. Aluminum spokes. Bad ass
Which is faster, the closed axle 6200 or the normal axle
#ASKGMBNtech across your various videos, you’ve all used a Garmin of some description, I’m looking into changing out my current smart watch for something more sports oriented and wanted your thoughts on say the Fenix vs Apple Watch 6, etc
Thanks
12:40 I have the rare 135x12 thru-axle breed
😂 I just serviced my 350 2 hours ago, probably should have watch this video first
If you have a bolt through rear hub is it usually possible to upgrade the old style freehub body to an xd / microspline version?.. or is a whole new hub likely to be required?
what about the "berd" string spokes
I am going into the 3rd week waiting for a delivery for a Shimano free hub for my 2020 Specialized Turbo Levo . They say in it shipping but can't say when it will arrive . Summer flying by and I can't ride. The number on mine is fh-mt510-b . Would any of the other models be compatible ? I need the 28 hole version.
is the new 350 hubs can stil be converted to 9mm qr?
Hope>DT Swiss