Mark your discussion on paralax adjustment is so important. In my shooting career I've witnessed many, many rifle owners who plainly do not understand what paralax in a rifle scope is. Almost to a man they refer to the paralax adjustment as the focus. Again, great presentation here.
I restore and fix a lot of Rifles. Had a new 270 that average group was 5 inch ! I tried everything was returned and response was the barrel was the problem. I inspected the barrel and it looked perfect . SO much really great information . Majority of Rifles i get that dont shoot is loose Action screws especially at the front ,the second is the nut behind the but as a wise man once said.😊👍
I recently ran a bore scope through a couple of my rifles and was dismayed at their poor condition. One even has a gouge about a third of the way towards the muzzle. Yet they both shot nice groups. So, I have experienced it when Mark says some barrels in poor condition can still shoot. Mark's breadth of knowledge on rifles and shooting is amazing - here he covered ground from the 22LR up to the 30 cal mags, with practical pointers. Thanks for what you do Mark!
Have seen many mil surplus guns with damaged rifling at the muzzle. I’ve attributed it to careless / indifferent cleaning from the muzzle, while in service. Have found cutting the muzzle back approximately 1/4” - 6 mm, and recrowning, improves things… Thanks for sharing. Cheers
I have experienced many "salesman " errors as a range officer of 40+ years. Most of those could be avoided by the shooter being informed. I've shared this video to numerous shooters. Thanks for putting into an easily understood format.
Great video, as always, Mark. From personal experience ( myself and helping others at the range) i have found that the specific part of the target that someone is aiming at can play a large part in group sizes. I tend to use targets with a right angle on them so that i can line the vertical and horizontal lines of the reticle up perfectly for each shot, whereas if shooting at circular targets your point of aim is rarely as "exact".. hope this helps someone Cheers 👍
Working in the trade I have seen them all, you were correct more prevalent in packages, loose action screws, loose mounts, wrong mounts, poorly assembled units especially on Howa packages. Only recently a young guy came to see me saying he just started deer hunting and the rifle couldn't hit a jerry can sized box at 50, when I asked if he sighted it in and with what, he replied the shop at pick up time said all good to go, which he took literally as ready to hunt, so yes there are many reasons and some are poor salesmen who are only there to sell rather than spend an extra 10 minutes to broadly outline what needs to occur prior to going into the field. Not every new shooter has it covered.
Another video filled with great ideas for improving one’s shot groups! I’m glad you mentioned that it could be the shooter; if you’ve checked all the boxes in the gear column, then have a qualified shooter observe your technique while you dry fire and live fire. What feels perfect for practice may not work consistently during live fire. When the problem is solved, it’s often something that the shooter rushed through when he/she was checking the details in his kit. And above all, patience is a gotta-have item, frustration seldom helps!
Excellent coverage of the variables that affect consistency. I'd add that when reassembling a rifle, always torque the bolts to the same number. I've seen rifles that grouped differently after a thorough takedown.
Good points. Like we used to say when I used to drag race motorcycles: "Upgrade the operator first!" Often it isn't the rifle. When it is, it's likely something small you didn't think of. Some shooters think that upgrading to a larger caliber will make them a marksman. Unlikely. Magnum shooters often aren't good rimfire shooters, and viceversa. Me, I'm a mediocre marksman with anything. That's on me and my failing body.
Thank you for the straightforward, common sense approach. I only have one scope with adjustable parallax and honestly didn’t know how to adjust it properly.
As a benchrest shooter, I know that one of the things that messes up my groupings is cant. If the centre of the scope is not exactly over the centre of the bore because I have tilted the rifle, the point of impact will not be the point of aim. A small cant can move the point of impact as much as a couple of inches. It sure wrecks a great day at the range.
Just got another LMT, this one i chambered for 556. Had my expectations in check. They are built for more than just accuracy. Have had very good luck my 762 large frame version, shooting 168gr Norma Diamond line it performs sub centimeter groups at 100 meters. The 556 however would not shoot anything other than 77gr, tried 55-69gr ammo but was literally all over the place. I know I can shoot and had done all my checks and inspections but it really got to me after a few trips to the range. Bullet weight, shape and velocity is one way to find accuracy if everything else is in check. Very happy the 77gr performed well. Thanks for a nice video man!
Great information, for me I started having more fun shooting when I quit shooting at a dot on a piece of paper and started shooting steel. Easier not to get caught up on group size shooting steel targets.
Going through this now. Took it all down, loc-tited all scope base screws and torqued to spec, torqued scope rings to base and to scope. Took action out of the chassis and torqued it back down. It will shoot the factory match ammo somewhat ok, sub 1” at 100, but I’m so picky that I really would like better! It’s a small step up in recoil, so I’ll be working on better form next.
one week went through 7 scopes, rifle was shooting shotgun pattern owner brought it to mee, fired it and crosshairs moved, returned it exchanged it for another same issue with 4 Leopold's must have had a bad batch, then went through 3 redfields and 80 rounds of 375 ammo to finally get a good scope and get rifle zeroed.
Thanks Mark , Im played with variouse 100gr 6.5SE with a 1:220 twist ( metric) . After a 200 reloads and 3 types of powder I have finally found one recipe that is accurate for one particular bullet type .. ELD-M. With same same same .. the next is the 100gr nosler the same group size yet high to the left .. 103gr OEP shotgun .. Barns 100gr 50mm group ... ELD- VT 30mm group . I find it amazing how different the same bullet weights group .
A friend (not me, honest) was experiencing random flyers in his 22LR. He took it to the gun shop, and found the supressor wasn't screwed on tightly, and was moving slightly every time the rifle was fired! Since then, I always check that on my suppressor!
I have a Remington 700 in .308 I bought years and years ago. It has never grouped well with any bullet weight, so i just put it at the back of the safe and never shoot it because i have a lot of other rifles that shoot very well. I think the best I have ever gotten out of it was maybe a minute and a half to two minutes. I should probably try to figure it out one of these days...
Your a book of knowledge buddy.. quick one for you,tikka action in .223 24” proof research barrel.. what’s the best weight round for a 1:8 twist at the 600 - 800 yard mark? thanks mark
As a competition bench rust shooterAs a competition bench rest shooter I see many guys not using proper parallax Adjustment and complaining about their groups during matches I use your techniqueand try to teach others and it oftentimes helps them very much thank you for all your information mark 😊
My full power FX Dreamline .22 air rifle, grouping was everywhere! The FX muzzle brake I noticed a small slight silver smudge on the end of the brake. Removed the muzzle brake solved the problem
After you get over the basics from this video, what's acceptable groups? Bedding , (neck tension bolt actions. single shots, etc... no semi auto's only) , COAL and the right powder/bullet, weight combinations. Fliers are part of pressure spikes.
In 1976 my uncle gave me his 30-06 that he brought back from the second WW. The first shots at the range for me was not too good. I was expecting it to knock me on my butt. It must have taken at least 2 boxes to be comfortable with it enough to group good.
My movements are about .125 to .190 that is my controlled flinch u may say.... some days it's lower lots of people can't see them because they don't have a scope that will tell them your moving, I run most of my scopes at 42x to 48x that's my happy place and I run 1 to 7 oz triggers...Great Vid 👍👍👍👍
I find that Loctite 222ms is a better choice to use on small screws. It prevents a torqued screw from coming loose, and is recommended for use on fasteners of this size.
Thanks Mark. I think my gas gun should be capable of more than I'm getting out of it. I'm going to spend considerable time working with parallax next time I'm at the range. I have trouble adjusting parallax and keeping the rifle steady and on target with a rear squeeze bag.
My main struggles grouping wise have been with semi auto rifles, usually coming down to fit between certain pieces and timing of the operating system. For bolt guns quality parts and a good once over with proper torque specs and setup usually does the job for me. I came across one rifle that I ended up swapping barrels on which solved the problem, but I honestly don't know why it wouldn't shoot well with the original barrel. It looked good on the borescope and had a properly sized chamber and a clean looking crown.
Got myself a swedish m38. I noticed that my grouping on opens has taken a nose-dive in the recent weeks simply because I discovered there was something wrong with the cocking piece. Basically, I found out that the previous owner had filed down the edges of the cocking-piece block, probably to try and make the trigger a single stage with a lot of pull. There's no wall in the trigger pull which I rely on heavily for good grouping at distance. The trigger-block and cocking-piece block both just slip off eachother and its unsafe. I did a pedersoli drop test (rubber butt pad on the butt stock and drop from a certain height), my rifle went off (dry-fired) from ankle height. A bit of a oddball example for the topic at hand, I know. But in the end,I guess it pays to know what you're looking at and what things *should* look like in a rifle before you buy it and should help you troubleshoot why your firearm isn't grouping or behaving as it should/how you'd like it to.
Great Video Mark, I’m having a similar problem with grouping with my Tikka tac A1 .223, Ive been through the process of all the things you described in the video, have only found 1 factory load that works! I reload and can’t get any success yet, just curious what projectiles and powder you used when Sam had the factory barrel on hers a few years back?
I've had a 90's era browning a-bolt in 7mm rem mag for 20+ years. It has never shot great, probably in the 1.5"-2.0" range shooting factory ammo. Its not a cheap gun, but should I expect to be able to get it down to 1 MOA with factory ammo? I have noticed that nosler partitions with a flat base seem to shoot the best. I am now interested in extending my hunting range out to 500-600 yards. I am debating whether or not I need a new rifle. I would love to keep it, but if it can't shoot 1 MOA, accuracy will be the limiting factor in how far I can ethically shoot. Should I keep working on it or is 1.5" the best I should expect with the older cartridges and rifles? I could get into reloading, but for the same price, I could buy a new rifle.
With a descent scope all rifles (100 year old also) if not worn shoot well, beyond that all the things including (as mentioned) action to stock and rifle set up are relevant, you have to make the fix or new rifle call, or get it to someone who can check for you, Cheers FYI some of the new design chassis' and stocks are simply easier to shoot well...
Normaly what is the main parts after cheking stock screws and scope n mounts cheking ...ammo testing after that what do you think we need to chack after that thanks
@markandsamafterwork lol... 😁 it means i could not understand your video yet let me watch it again sorry my english not that much good ... thnks for your responce
There is a bit of confusion here between grouping and zeroing. An un-zero'd scope should still give you a group. On a brand new barrel I would look at the barrel muzzle crown as soon as I could, as a bad crown can 'flick' rounds as they exit.
Thanks for the info Mark. I wonder have you ever put a Ruger 308 Scout rifle through its paces, do you have an opinion of these rifles ? Kind regards Steve.
Hi Steve, I have a ruger scout, but in 556, but have also used a mates in 308 a bunch ( they are the exact same rifle physically, just the 556/223 has a polymer sleeve in the magazine and obviously a different barrel). Great little rifle for all sorts of hunting situations and fun to shoot fast with open sights. Have shot mine out to 700m on steel and around 400m on foxes. ***Be aware that they are quite loud due to the short barrel though***
action screw torque and barrel free floating, hmm, let's talk about those issues, why Mark should these be new rifle owner issues to solve? New owner didn't cause either of those issues, and w.r.t barrel not free floating, if the rifle is advertised as free floated barrel, it's not a simple fix for the owner, so again, owner should indeed take it back to place of purchase for rectification...
Rifle requires general maintenance, bolts loosen, things settle and as shooters we need to not only clean but it is our job to keep on top of all this...as for free floating barrel, did I say it was a rifle that had that advertised? Cheers
My rifle simply refuses to group, about 70% of the time. But 30% of the time I'm getting single hole groups. I'm certain there's something wrong with the rifle...
![Ice On My Teeth - ATEEZ エイティーズ 에이티즈 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 241115](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c-n92OgbbwA/mqdefault.jpg)
Mark your discussion on paralax adjustment is so important. In my shooting career I've witnessed many, many rifle owners who plainly do not understand what paralax in a rifle scope is. Almost to a man they refer to the paralax adjustment as the focus. Again, great presentation here.
Awesome, thanks Dave, Cheers
I restore and fix a lot of Rifles. Had a new 270 that average group was 5 inch ! I tried everything was returned and response was the barrel was the problem. I inspected the barrel and it looked perfect . SO much really great information . Majority of Rifles i get that dont shoot is loose Action screws especially at the front ,the second is the nut behind the but as a wise man once said.😊👍
Thanks Man
Great info Mark. Easy to go down the rabbit hole and make assumptions without checking the basics first. Thanks.
Thanks Josh
I recently ran a bore scope through a couple of my rifles and was dismayed at their poor condition. One even has a gouge about a third of the way towards the muzzle. Yet they both shot nice groups. So, I have experienced it when Mark says some barrels in poor condition can still shoot.
Mark's breadth of knowledge on rifles and shooting is amazing - here he covered ground from the 22LR up to the 30 cal mags, with practical pointers. Thanks for what you do Mark!
Thanks Man, glad you liked, Cheers
Have seen many mil surplus guns with damaged rifling at the muzzle. I’ve attributed it to careless / indifferent cleaning from the muzzle, while in service. Have found cutting the muzzle back approximately 1/4” - 6 mm, and recrowning, improves things…
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Yep, thanks George
I have experienced many "salesman " errors as a range officer of 40+ years. Most of those could be avoided by the shooter being informed. I've shared this video to numerous shooters. Thanks for putting into an easily understood format.
Thanks Mike, Cheers
Great video, as always, Mark.
From personal experience ( myself and helping others at the range) i have found that the specific part of the target that someone is aiming at can play a large part in group sizes. I tend to use targets with a right angle on them so that i can line the vertical and horizontal lines of the reticle up perfectly for each shot, whereas if shooting at circular targets your point of aim is rarely as "exact".. hope this helps someone
Cheers 👍
Thanks Pete, Cheers
Working in the trade I have seen them all, you were correct more prevalent in packages, loose action screws, loose mounts, wrong mounts, poorly assembled units especially on Howa packages. Only recently a young guy came to see me saying he just started deer hunting and the rifle couldn't hit a jerry can sized box at 50, when I asked if he sighted it in and with what, he replied the shop at pick up time said all good to go, which he took literally as ready to hunt, so yes there are many reasons and some are poor salesmen who are only there to sell rather than spend an extra 10 minutes to broadly outline what needs to occur prior to going into the field. Not every new shooter has it covered.
Thanks Gary, Cheers Man
I had a scope mount come loose once due to no locktite. I take all those things with me now in my range bag just in case. Good lesson learned.
Thanks Brian
Another video filled with great ideas for improving one’s shot groups! I’m glad you mentioned that it could be the shooter; if you’ve checked all the boxes in the gear column, then have a qualified shooter observe your technique while you dry fire and live fire. What feels perfect for practice may not work consistently during live fire.
When the problem is solved, it’s often something that the shooter rushed through when he/she was checking the details in his kit.
And above all, patience is a gotta-have item, frustration seldom helps!
Thanks Paul, Cheers man
Excellent coverage of the variables that affect consistency. I'd add that when reassembling a rifle, always torque the bolts to the same number. I've seen rifles that grouped differently after a thorough takedown.
Cheers Bill
Good points. Like we used to say when I used to drag race motorcycles: "Upgrade the operator first!" Often it isn't the rifle. When it is, it's likely something small you didn't think of. Some shooters think that upgrading to a larger caliber will make them a marksman. Unlikely. Magnum shooters often aren't good rimfire shooters, and viceversa. Me, I'm a mediocre marksman with anything. That's on me and my failing body.
Thanks Man., Cheers
Thank you for the straightforward, common sense approach. I only have one scope with adjustable parallax and honestly didn’t know how to adjust it properly.
Thanks Man
As a benchrest shooter, I know that one of the things that messes up my groupings is cant. If the centre of the scope is not exactly over the centre of the bore because I have tilted the rifle, the point of impact will not be the point of aim. A small cant can move the point of impact as much as a couple of inches. It sure wrecks a great day at the range.
Thanks Dave
Cant is fine but it just has to be consistent as I'm sure you are aware
Just got another LMT, this one i chambered for 556. Had my expectations in check. They are built for more than just accuracy. Have had very good luck my 762 large frame version, shooting 168gr Norma Diamond line it performs sub centimeter groups at 100 meters. The 556 however would not shoot anything other than 77gr, tried 55-69gr ammo but was literally all over the place. I know I can shoot and had done all my checks and inspections but it really got to me after a few trips to the range. Bullet weight, shape and velocity is one way to find accuracy if everything else is in check. Very happy the 77gr performed well. Thanks for a nice video man!
Thanks Man, Cheers
since I saw the video on parallax I have always followed you, greetings from Italy 👏👏👏👏👋👋👋, you are really clear and precise!
Thanks Leonardo, Cheers
Great information, for me I started having more fun shooting when I quit shooting at a dot on a piece of paper and started shooting steel. Easier not to get caught up on group size shooting steel targets.
Cheers Randy
I get it, and I intend to start shooting steel too. Paper for precision and steel for fun shooting sounds good to me.
Thanks Mark, great explanation of all the factors that effect accuracy of a rifle much appreciated.
Thanks John
Thank you, Mark. I appreciate all this information.👍
Cheers Rich
as always...thanks for your great advice. Considered and informative. always learn something from watching your content. cheers
Awesome. Thanks Cobber
Once again, your wisdom and knowledge is greatly appreciated. Blessings from Th Central West of NSW.
Thanks Dave
Lyndhurst Country NSW here!! As I like to call the central west and surrounds 😉😜
Going through this now. Took it all down, loc-tited all scope base screws and torqued to spec, torqued scope rings to base and to scope. Took action out of the chassis and torqued it back down. It will shoot the factory match ammo somewhat ok, sub 1” at 100, but I’m so picky that I really would like better! It’s a small step up in recoil, so I’ll be working on better form next.
Awesome, Cheers John
one week went through 7 scopes, rifle was shooting shotgun pattern owner brought it to mee, fired it and crosshairs moved, returned it exchanged it for another same issue with 4 Leopold's must have had a bad batch, then went through 3 redfields and 80 rounds of 375 ammo to finally get a good scope and get rifle zeroed.
Wow, thanks man, Cheers
Well said! Thanks man !
Thanks Bill
Thanks Mark ,
Im played with variouse 100gr 6.5SE with a 1:220 twist ( metric) . After a 200 reloads and 3 types of powder I have finally found one recipe that is accurate for one particular bullet type .. ELD-M. With same same same .. the next is the 100gr nosler the same group size yet high to the left .. 103gr OEP shotgun .. Barns 100gr 50mm group ... ELD- VT 30mm group . I find it amazing how different the same bullet weights group .
Thanks Paul, Cheers
Thanks Mark, I need to remember this so many times I think wtf I’m doing 😂 and then so often the bipod on the arc rail comes loose, always forget
Cheers Ian
A friend (not me, honest) was experiencing random flyers in his 22LR. He took it to the gun shop, and found the supressor wasn't screwed on tightly, and was moving slightly every time the rifle was fired! Since then, I always check that on my suppressor!
Thanks John
I have a Remington 700 in .308 I bought years and years ago. It has never grouped well with any bullet weight, so i just put it at the back of the safe and never shoot it because i have a lot of other rifles that shoot very well. I think the best I have ever gotten out of it was maybe a minute and a half to two minutes. I should probably try to figure it out one of these days...
Yep, Cheers Man
Your a book of knowledge buddy.. quick one for you,tikka action in .223 24” proof research barrel.. what’s the best weight round for a 1:8 twist at the 600 - 800 yard mark? thanks mark
What weight are you using?
Thanks mark, 55 Grain Hornady ballistic tip
As a competition bench rust shooterAs a competition bench rest shooter I see many guys not using proper parallax Adjustment and complaining about their groups during matches I use your techniqueand try to teach others and it oftentimes helps them very much thank you for all your information mark 😊
Awesome, Cheers Man
thanks so much for all the great contents!
Cheers
My full power FX Dreamline .22 air rifle, grouping was everywhere! The FX muzzle brake I noticed a small slight silver smudge on the end of the brake. Removed the muzzle brake solved the problem
Cheers
Muzzle brake on an air rifle? I had no idea there is a need for that.
After you get over the basics from this video, what's acceptable groups? Bedding , (neck tension bolt actions. single shots, etc... no semi auto's only) , COAL and the right powder/bullet, weight combinations. Fliers are part of pressure spikes.
Cheers
Great information Mark
Thanks Man, Cheers
In 1976 my uncle gave me his 30-06 that he brought back from the second WW. The first shots at the range for me was not too good. I was expecting it to knock me on my butt. It must have taken at least 2 boxes to be comfortable with it enough to group good.
Thanks Pete, Cheers
My movements are about .125 to .190 that is my controlled flinch u may say.... some days it's lower lots of people can't see them because they don't have a scope that will tell them your moving, I run most of my scopes at 42x to 48x that's my happy place and I run 1 to 7 oz triggers...Great Vid 👍👍👍👍
Cheers
Hi Mark thanks for this video it was great and very interesting and informative I've now understand things better so cheers mick
Glad it was helpful!
I find that Loctite 222ms is a better choice to use on small screws. It prevents a torqued screw from coming loose, and is recommended for use on fasteners of this size.
Cheers
Thanks Mark. I think my gas gun should be capable of more than I'm getting out of it. I'm going to spend considerable time working with parallax next time I'm at the range. I have trouble adjusting parallax and keeping the rifle steady and on target with a rear squeeze bag.
Cheers Man
My main struggles grouping wise have been with semi auto rifles, usually coming down to fit between certain pieces and timing of the operating system. For bolt guns quality parts and a good once over with proper torque specs and setup usually does the job for me. I came across one rifle that I ended up swapping barrels on which solved the problem, but I honestly don't know why it wouldn't shoot well with the original barrel. It looked good on the borescope and had a properly sized chamber and a clean looking crown.
Cheers
Got myself a swedish m38.
I noticed that my grouping on opens has taken a nose-dive in the recent weeks simply because I discovered there was something wrong with the cocking piece.
Basically, I found out that the previous owner had filed down the edges of the cocking-piece block, probably to try and make the trigger a single stage with a lot of pull.
There's no wall in the trigger pull which I rely on heavily for good grouping at distance.
The trigger-block and cocking-piece block both just slip off eachother and its unsafe.
I did a pedersoli drop test (rubber butt pad on the butt stock and drop from a certain height), my rifle went off (dry-fired) from ankle height.
A bit of a oddball example for the topic at hand, I know.
But in the end,I guess it pays to know what you're looking at and what things *should* look like in a rifle before you buy it and should help you troubleshoot why your firearm isn't grouping or behaving as it should/how you'd like it to.
Thanks Man
Thanks
Cheers
Great Video Mark, I’m having a similar problem with grouping with my Tikka tac A1 .223, Ive been through the process of all the things you described in the video, have only found 1 factory load that works! I reload and can’t get any success yet, just curious what projectiles and powder you used when Sam had the factory barrel on hers a few years back?
Sounds like you have missed something there, we used several loads, no issues, Cheers
I've had a 90's era browning a-bolt in 7mm rem mag for 20+ years. It has never shot great, probably in the 1.5"-2.0" range shooting factory ammo. Its not a cheap gun, but should I expect to be able to get it down to 1 MOA with factory ammo? I have noticed that nosler partitions with a flat base seem to shoot the best. I am now interested in extending my hunting range out to 500-600 yards. I am debating whether or not I need a new rifle. I would love to keep it, but if it can't shoot 1 MOA, accuracy will be the limiting factor in how far I can ethically shoot. Should I keep working on it or is 1.5" the best I should expect with the older cartridges and rifles? I could get into reloading, but for the same price, I could buy a new rifle.
With a descent scope all rifles (100 year old also) if not worn shoot well, beyond that all the things including (as mentioned) action to stock and rifle set up are relevant, you have to make the fix or new rifle call, or get it to someone who can check for you, Cheers FYI some of the new design chassis' and stocks are simply easier to shoot well...
Great video again.
Thanks Andrey
Great video!
Thanks Howard
Normaly what is the main parts after cheking stock screws and scope n mounts cheking ...ammo testing after that what do you think we need to chack after that thanks
The nut behind the butt, lol, Cheers
@markandsamafterwork lol... 😁 it means i could not understand your video yet let me watch it again sorry my english not that much good ... thnks for your responce
There is a bit of confusion here between grouping and zeroing. An un-zero'd scope should still give you a group. On a brand new barrel I would look at the barrel muzzle crown as soon as I could, as a bad crown can 'flick' rounds as they exit.
We have videos on zeroing, this is not one, lol, Cheers
Don’t forget to check that the telescope is actually good. I once rebarrelled a rifle only to find out the scope was junk. Ouch!
Yep, Cheers
Maybe the block is not tight in the stock....yup...seen it happen....now you have to bed it
👍👍
i have had my sights come loose during shoot. Now loctite on everything. I use match grade ammo for zero and stunned by how bad other ammo can be.
Thanks Man
I had the wrong barrel twist 222rem 1.14 with
75g pills wrong went to 40g bt and its happy days
Yep, Cheer Darren
I spent a lot of money chasing a loose scope base
Yep, lol, Cheers
Thanks for the info Mark. I wonder have you ever put a Ruger 308 Scout rifle through its paces, do you have an opinion of these rifles ? Kind regards Steve.
Thanks Steve and no, Cheers
Hi Steve, I have a ruger scout, but in 556, but have also used a mates in 308 a bunch ( they are the exact same rifle physically, just the 556/223 has a polymer sleeve in the magazine and obviously a different barrel). Great little rifle for all sorts of hunting situations and fun to shoot fast with open sights. Have shot mine out to 700m on steel and around 400m on foxes.
***Be aware that they are quite loud due to the short barrel though***
@@JustplainPete Thanks for your reply Pete, hope all is well in your life. They are an intriging rifle.
A retired Oriental action pistol shooter once told me that a gun will shoot anything, but what's it like to eat?
Cheers
Are you saying “fliers” are 100% shooter induced?
I'm saying the "fliers" is commonly an excuse to explain a miss that may well have been just a bad shot...Cheers
@@markandsamafterwork I agree. I would argue that a proficient shooter and hand loader knows when a flier is load and/or gun related.
Good video.
DIAMETER OF BULLET.....yup....seen people load WRONG bullets
👍👍
🙏
😊👍👍
All my rifles shoot great. The guys that say their rifles shoot like crap, need to look at themselves.... Truth..
Lol, Cheers
action screw torque and barrel free floating, hmm, let's talk about those issues, why Mark should these be new rifle owner issues to solve? New owner didn't cause either of those issues, and w.r.t barrel not free floating, if the rifle is advertised as free floated barrel, it's not a simple fix for the owner, so again, owner should indeed take it back to place of purchase for rectification...
Rifle requires general maintenance, bolts loosen, things settle and as shooters we need to not only clean but it is our job to keep on top of all this...as for free floating barrel, did I say it was a rifle that had that advertised? Cheers
Maybe somebody dropped it on the END of the barrel....yup...crown
Cheers
My rifle simply refuses to group, about 70% of the time. But 30% of the time I'm getting single hole groups.
I'm certain there's something wrong with the rifle...
Cheers
That's a new one for me, a rifle that sometimes shoots a group. Weird stuff.
@@snookmeister55 It has to be the rifle, it couldn't possibly be me...
@jeffdege4786 Dry fire practice might help
The problem is you can't shoot
Lol, Cheers
Hi🫡
Cheers
Again great common sense advice
Thanks Man
Good common sense info, cheers Mark. I'm interested to know if you take copper equilibrium into account, in your cleaning regime?
ruclips.net/video/GXFw4d-4nvQ/видео.html