Hey thanks for still keeping up with mod videos for your ender 5 plus. I am new to 3D printing and your videos are great at showing what can be improved and almost more importantly what doesn’t need to be improved. I’m really happy with my ender 5 plus, but there’s a few small annoyances with it so it’s nice to have you as a resource to learn how I might go ahead and fix those issues.
I watched the entire video and really appreciate the effort and thoroughness of this review. I recently installed this on a heavily customized printer and I've had great luck, even with TPU. And that's with the all metal heat break from Biqu. One of of the differences I see is that my fan (a 4020 blower) is angled out at 30 degrees from the extruder. I don't know if that additional airflow makes a difference but I'm printing TPU at 260 degrees at 40mm/s with no signs of heat creep and it has yet to exhibit the binding issue unless I had the hot-end temp below 240. I also haven't had any softness issue on the PLA mounting place I made. That damn clicking though....that's universal.
I saw a post on Angus's review of the H2 that someone said the clicking can be fixed by repositioning the motor. That there is enough play in the mounting that it needs to be loosened and shifted a little and tightened. I cannot confirm personally though.
Don't worry about being in-depth We're here because you explain, because you do properly look into things. There are plenty of basic run-throughs of the basics. I tend to think of these more as vanity projects. Keep up the good work bloke, thanks.
35:35 this also happened to me using regular PLA. Maybe its a common malfunction in this extruder but I think it's because our Biqu H2's are Version 1 (mine surely is) wich had many many problems with the gears. V2 is suposed to have already solved that fabrication problems, so i'll be looking to buy the correct one in the future. For everyone who wants to buy Biqu h2, make sure yours is V2, otherwise it will give you tons of problems... besides that it's a beast of extruder.
The problem with soft filaments is a design issue. If you look at any other direct drive system there is a peak path that leads to within 1mm of the bottom of the gears, which does not exist in this extruder. It would be easy for them to fix, but that is why it is failing. I don’t like the horizontal design either, as that addresses 100% of all your other issues, and is why the alternatives are vertical. I’m actually using the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder & Hot End with a custom linear rails upgrade on the X & Y. I noticed a huge difference when I added the linear rails, as I can print faster with the exact same quality that I could previously only see at slower speeds. I know I can go even faster, but the Silent Creality MB is my current limiting factor, and doesn’t work well with accelerations over 500mm/s^2, so I’m upgrading to a BIGTREETECH MB.
Thanks for the feedback. That's a great point about the peak. I should have looked closer to notice that. While I didn't love the MS DD, it didn't cause me these kinds of problems.
Hello, thank you for your video. Regarding what you have mentioned, we suggest you: 1. lower the speed when your printer extrudes the flexible filament, 2. apply some thermal grease to the heatbreak, 3. We will further optimize it and reduce the noise.
@ BIQU 3D Printer : since day 1 I have gear binding issues, and your only "support"is to tell me that I have to buy myself a new better gear, and you even tell me that you don't have them in stock :( Your quality control has definitely issues ! And your support too ...
An issue I discovered with the H2 was after extruding some PLA for setup PPU and first layer Z offset calibration it wouldn't feed after cooling down and restarting. Found the PTFE tube was cut .060" short leaving a PLA disk formed at the heat break. Had to pull the thing apart to clear the jam. I cut another piece of PTFE slightly longer than the bore depth +.010" to resolve that. Next issue was getting the gears to mesh properly. I ended up leaving the fasteners snug to dry run the extruder allowing the gear train to more or less set its own running clearances without binding. Then finally tightened the fasteners up. First run was TPU Success!
@41:10, idk on video at least, the H2 print looks way better to my eye, could just be the glossier finish covering up more, but it looks like you've got way worse z-banding on the Micro-Swiss model, and although the overhangs are less consistent, they look less droopy. a close up of the seams you're talking about would be helpful, because I didn't notice those at all
I am putting on a Biqu H2 v1 with all metal heat break right now on an Ender 6 pro. Did you end up swapping this extruder out for something different or figure out a better solution to all the clogs you were experiencing? Great videos!
Biqu makes 2 versions of all metal heat brake. Steel and titanium, wich one are you using? Also this heat brake looks very similar to the one of E3d for chimera and kraken hot ends that are supposed to have, possibly, a super high grade machining quality. Do you have any around to check compatibiliy in size/shape?
The stock has a teflon liner inside that can be a bit short, all metal was a good pick. As to the all metal ones, doubt they'll match as the h2 heatbreak has a flat edge and doesn't let the pfte sit inside as far as i can see
@@adanhu if the problem is only the flat edge it. Might be not so diffcult to recreate by the sand paper. I suppose thoug the flat edge is used to fix more strongly the hotend with a screw, in that case the hole might actually be round and fit the chimera heatbrake. All of that just assuming that e3d heatbrake is internally better machined than Biqu one (that might not be the case).
@@gentiligiuliano7882 looks like a rather prominent flat edge, but will depend on the slot and heatsink. If anything i'd throw in the bimetal one from slice, clips i've seen get around a 30% drop in thermal conductivity at heatsink level compared to the v6 heatbreak
Unboxed H2 to install on E5+ (once current print finishes)... sit down and computer (to wait for print to finish) and find video about H2 on E5+!!!! Thank you!!! Please post the video of how exactly you installed it. .... After finishing the video I'm now wondering if it is worth the hassle to install on the E5+... it might be better served on my other (i3 style) printer. Thank you for this wonderful, honest review.
No problem! I'll get that video up ASAP. It is quite a lot of work with all of the crimping and soldering but at least it can transfer to another hotend install if you choose something else.
Love you focus on the ender 5 plus in a lot of your videos! I purchased my first printer a week ago and it was a 5+ and no one breaks everything down like you do!
I don't know much about this nozzle set up, but have fitted the microswiss, which needed some adjustment. It may not make much difference, but looking at your original assembly, if the nozzle is not up in the heat block, then it will not be reaching heat block temperature, and it looks as if the part cooling fan is also partly aiming at the nozzle. Also, the fact hat he heat block is nearer the extruder mech, then that will get hotter, too.
I've modified this setup on my latest tests and it looks very similar now to what you've described. I've even gone back to the original heatbreak. I'm getting more clogging than ever now.
Long video, but as always well produced. Thank you for your final comments where you were honest. And said you can't recommend it, it is not for you. So many content providers that, sing the praises of anything, because they were sponsored, or slupplied free.
Hi Kersey! Thanks for all the informative 3d printing videos, I appreciate what you do! I've wanted to try out some TPU on my Biqu H2, but have put it off because I (as most) hate dealing with jams/clogged nozzles... Well, I finally decided to try it out and picked up some SainSmart 95A TPU which arrived yesterday. I hit up CAD, created a case for my new cell phone, and printed it out using the SainSmart recommended temps and speeds (220 nozzle, 55 bed, 30mm/sec, .4 nozzle). To my shock/surprise, the thing printed out as designed on the first shot, I didn't even print a calibration test! I've since had to print the case a few more times,as I've iterated on the design, and have been able to print at 60mm/sec at high quality - including 20mm bridges, consistently. TPU aside, I'm getting more than advertised flow rates when printing PLA with good quality benchys coming in under 27 minutes. Once my part cooling situation is improved I'm pretty sure I can print even quicker with above average quality. Of note, I've modified my Ender 5 Pro - converting it to a core xy using the Mercury One core xy conversion (totally recommended BTW). In any event, I thought you'd like to hear from someone who'se had great success using the H2 with over 300 print hours on it, now printig PLA, PETG, ABS, and TPU. I'm happy to share videos/photos/slicer profiles - hit me up. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
I love hearing awesome success stories. It shows that one person's experience isn't the final word. Thanks for all of that and I'm really glad to hear that yours is working so well!
Used Bowden for a year before switching over to DD about 18 months back. Will never look back. Print tolerance and quality went through the roof with properly tuned retraction and LA. Using 2 x H2 extruders and they are literally my go-to extruders for hassle free printing. I use the titanium heatbreak and have not had a single clog.
I gues you want the nozzle all the way into the heatblock (14.30), the further its out u will loose heat due to that distance and eventuel fan blowing air. you dont want the filament cooling before its on the print. Also, if your nozzle is max inside the heatblock, the heatblock is further away from the extruder which is a good thing. you want the heatblock away from the extruder to minimize that warming up which causes filament to go soft and clog up. Im working on a better heatbreak between heatblock and extruder other than metal. metal conducts heat to well and you dont want that. What is the inner diameter of your all metal hotend? Great video, thanks.
I've been using for quite a while on an Ender 6 (sort of, since I've replaced the wheels, the board, the extruder... the frame is stock :D) without any major troubles. I only print with PLA & PETG and the only clogs were my fault (not seating the nozzles properly inside the block). I had a clicking issue when retracting (no missed eSteps) but was fixed with tape in the bearings inside the Biqu H2. They now have a Revo version I'd love to see a review since the nozzle will replace the current nozzle + throat :)
I am looking at getting the ender 5 plus. I want to print CF Nylon predominantly and maybe some flexibles. What type of hot end do you recommend? Would have loved to see this extruder with some high temp filaments!
I don't plan on doing much more with this extruder unless I find a specific use case. I don't have a good option at this time for a DD extruder but I have 3 more in the works. As for just the hotend, get a Micro Swiss. I have one on all of my workhorse printers.
What is that filament you printed that mermaid in the back out of? Also how did you match the cables from the ender extruder to the h2 cables? (The h2 is 5 colors and the ender 5 is all black with symbols on each wire.)
Here's a link to the filament: amzn.to/3cx2LEU I have an install video on the channel. You can take a look here for details: ruclips.net/video/VKGd_r_WF0g/видео.html
Hey Jersey I just finished setting this up on my Ender 6 with the Titanium heat break on a Biqu H2 running klipper. What is the max temp I can set that too is it 500c and do I just do it in the printer.cfg file in Klipper? Took me about 4 days straight to get it printing right and I have had no clogs touch wood. Mine came with the upgrade kit to fix the locking up. I am printing at 250mms and my prints are coming out pretty much perfect. Thanks for sharing your experience mate.
The max temp with the stock thermistor will be around 300C. If you want to go higher, you will have to upgrade your thermistor and possibly your heating cartridge. I'm glad your is working well!
@@kerseyfabs is there? I’ve only noticed discrete extruders using bmg gears and combined units that actually have everything with hemera clones and actual hemera
There's someone else on RUclips with one of these that decided to drill an access hole in the front to be able to take the heatbrake out without disassembling the extruder.
Excellent video Kris, and yeah, I watched it all! I have a similar DD (Hemera V6) and have had my bout of clogs. The teardown is almost the same, and it's a 30-minute process to dis-assemble/clean/re-assemble. Then setup is another 5-10 minutes. So, I feel your pain. A while ago I had a FB ad pop up for this no-clogger device and I think you should try it. I've had a 50-50 success rate. 100% on the Ender5Plus, and 0% on the Ender 5Pro. Both have had 2 clogs since buying this device. This isn't a sales pitch, just thought you should look into it. And once again great info!
Exactly. Most direct drives are heavy and don't have dual direct drive. I am looking for a inexpensive direct drive extruder that works and also I would like multiple colors. :0) I agree. And I do have all direct drive.
Very nice video, thank you for your efforts. Now that I have buttered you up, do you have a link for the all-metal heat breaks that you are using? I just want to make sure I get the right ones. Thank you!
Thanks for that and no need for butter. 😆 I've added the link to the description and here you go for convenience: www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-bx-all-metal-throat-stainless-steel-titanium-alloy-heat-break-3d-printer-accessories-for-biqu-h2-extruder-3d-printer-parts?variant=32093850828898 I believe I received the stainless heatbreak based on cost but it wasn't clear.
would be great to see some updated versions, they have a water cooled version as well as a smart sensor one that detects jams clogging breakages etc (this one is on sell still for$84 reg priced at $199) the Titanium heat breaks to would be nice to see as well, there is also the Hermit Crab but guess it's also used with other hot end extruder tools and combos.. there is no videos on the H2-Smart guess you can run the H2's at 500-Celsius now going to buy the H2O version my self already have the smart and standard V2 (came on the BIQU BX)
I have one of these BIQU H2 extruders on my Ender 3 V2. I'm using the PTFE lined heatbrake for now, I have the titanium heatbrake in case I want to try high temp filaments. I haven't had any clogging issues (yet). I applied thermal paste to the PTFE heatbrake and made sure my nozzle does not bottom out on the hotend, but instead bottoms out against the heatbrake. If you allow a gap between the nozzle and the heatbrake, filament can ooze out the top of the hotend through the threads for the heatbrake. What speeds did you encounter jams with flexibles? I'm printing 95A TPU at 40mm/s without jamming. Edit: I also have clicking issues during retractions. It comes down to a design flaw with this extruder where there is no way to accurately set the distance between the gears to control the backlash. I have thought about printing a jig that I could set the extruder inside of with fine thread screws to allow me to accurately position the stepper motor within the extruder housing to correct the backlash in the gears. For now though, I'm living with the clicking sound.. I just added some heavy duty high tack grease to the gears to help protect them from the incorrect backlash.
backlash issues like crazy here too.... sucks cause I hate having to remove the whole hot end assembly to fix it which means I go printerless for a few months until I absolutely need to print something smh
Have you seen the new version they released recently? It's supposed to allow you to remove the heatbrake without having to disassemble the whole extruder.
@@NathanielHatley it's one thing to sell a v2 when it offers improvements and additional features from a V1. It's a whole other thing when you sell a v2 that merely fixes design flaws and issues of V1... I think it's disrespectful to sell your V1 customers a fix for something that shouldn't have been released with.
I thought that Biqu suggested the installation of a larger cooling fan for more delicate filaments and higher temperatures, maybe fitting a 4010 or 4020 to replace the 3510 would give you better results.
hello, thanks for this video, for me it's a no go. The motor is not powerful enough and must heat up, I prefer a solution with a microsuiss and a bmg. that said I have a problem on my ender 5+, I find that we see a lot of layers,... any idea?
Well, I honestly have to say the motor seems to have plenty of power. With the gearing, it really can pull some filament. The heating is a problem though IMO. As for seeing too many layers, I'm not sure exactly what you're seeing but you could try smaller layer sizes such as 0.15 or 0.1mm.
Nozzle never should be flush or you have no room to hot tighten. The only hotend I have seen that it doesn’t matter is the new Revo system because there is no gap between the nozzle and heat break.
I think the clicking you hear is backlash in the gear. Take your extruder without filament and rotate the gear sticking out (back driving the motor), you will hear and feel a click each direction change. I tried to grease mine as well, but there is too much slop in the gear.
@6:10 "I think they're the same." Actually, a bunch of us have different iterations. It seems the earliest versions have been problematic. I think, by now, (August 2021), if you order one, you will get a better version. For instance, the first iterations had the cosmetic issue of the motor plug being oriented downward instead of up like yours. And yes, I am having issues, too. [Not pulling filament evenly.]
@@kerseyfabs Good luck, my iteration does not have the press-fit motor housing section screwed to the motor and the motor was positioned facing down. Also, the wiring was reversed, so Marlin had to be adjusted to account for it. Yes, I agree: a lot of work, more than I expected; yet, I really want this thing to work. Again, good luck. [Ender-3 with BTT SKR E3 Mini v1.2 motherboard]
Hey Kersey, could you maybe do a video were you try to setup a Cr-touch on a ender-5 plus? I made the mistake of buying one for mine and sadly couldn't make it work but I like to imagine you have the talent to pull it off.
Is there any chance you are getting heat creep causing a block maybe it could be solved with a bimetallic heat break? I'm sure you solved this problem already by now but its what I would have tried?
I haven't solved it yet and it been removed from my printer at this point. To your point though, yes, it may work. I may try it in the future but I didn't have one at the time.
@@kerseyfabs Well if you do try it will you reply to me at some point because I am going to buy a BIQU H2 for a thinker SE. But you kind of put me off!!!! I highly recommend the bimetallic from slice its a bit pricey for a heat break but it's an impressive piece of kit!
I've been having problems with the bowden couplers failing at the extruder, and I've been considering going direct drive. Before I do, are there any reliable brands of couplers(or alternatives) that you recommend?
I recommend going dd. A couple things to consider though are your printers ability and your goals. I have two ender 5s using orbiter 1.5 extruders.. that are awesome for my purposes. That said, I print a lot of Petg and have an interest in other filaments than pla. Every complaint about direct drive can be overcome. If you're willing to use klipper or RRF you can use a accelerometer and implement input shaping.. that will overcome most ringing, From the extruders and otherwise. You can use bigger steppers to counteract the weight and even then you will benefit in terms of acceleration and jerk. I never could get pressure advance to work with a single gear Bowden, I realized I'd need a bmg extruder or something like that, instead I went with the orbiters, they have been pretty low bs. I've printed 100s of hours on both machines since the upgrade. Just started doing tpu and it is flawless.
I did want to add that additionally. Should you pick a direct drive option pay very close attention to weight and gearing. For high precision task. Backlash will screw up everything, the orbiter has a tiny amount though it's barely noticeable. This is true for all current geared extruders. A pet project of mine is too integrate a double cycloidal gear reduction into an extruder.... Zero backlash.
@@jakesells2379 personally I wouldn't buy it. It is heavy with little clear advantages to newer dd options. I use modified micro Swiss at the moment.. There dd system is just too heavy though. I think the BMG derivatives such as . Orbiter, actual BMG, Sherpa mini, voron afterburner... Those are the good ones. They are light and powerful. The only downside is that you need to change a lot more settings. For starters your stepsmm and driving current will dramatically change. So will absolutely all your slicer settings related to extrusion rate or retraction.
I modded one of my E5+ with Exoslide rails and a Hemera extruder. It works quite well for PLA/PETG, but not noticeably better than the stock Bowden based hot end. I originally acquired this to work with higher temp materials like ABS, but haven't gone there just yet. That said, it was probably 20 hours over 2+ weeks to get everything converted, all the bugs worked out, and get everything realigned. Not sure it was worth the hassle and expense.
Thanks for the feedback. I still appreciate the low maintenance of the ExoSlide but the more I've modded for direct drive, the less I've been impressed.
Very similar experience. I liked the Hemera, but had some with the bad gear train problem 2020 spring, and support was non-existant. I think the Hemera gear system is too finely machined. Normally this would be good, but when you have filament dust and flakes it can get into the fine gears and cause big problems. I now have the X-change tooling system and Exoslides on my E 5s and E5 Plus with OmniaDrop hot ends. About a 2 minute swap in case anything goes wrong.
Is there a reason you are still using the bowden (sp?) tube. I have seen other videos of printers using a direct drive & they don't use the bowden (sp?) tube.
It's just a clean way to route the filament from the back of the machine to the extruder. It's just a rigid path. With larger printers especially, this helps keep the filament from getting hung up.
From todays perspective: what is you first selection for an ultimate compromise of all ? Far better than original but when it comes to extreme conditions need to compromise without the need of change to different solution.
@@kerseyfabs extruder & hotend (separately or as all-in-one package?). I am curious what will be the selection of a pro-maker. Orbiter extruder V2.0 sounds interesting for me plus maybe a Spider or mosquito hotend but for sure you have tested quite some and have better opinion and recommendations for that.
Thanks for a great review and the subsequent comeback one you printed some more. I did purchaser th3 H2 and I am a little concerned. . Keep up the good work. Thanks p.s. youtube speed 1.5 works well for me. ;-)
Point of order: Bowden machines are over 100 years old. You are talking about 3d printer extruders using bowden tubes being designed, not "Bowden tubes being invented". Originally, bowden tubes were used to move force from a point which you couldn't realistically move to a place where the force is applied(automobile clutch, bicycle brakes)
Thank you for a honest review, I have looked on this one and an orbiter to change from my micro swiss, the micro swiss works good, but it doesnt really work so good with tpu, but it might be my settings..but I would really like see a review in the future with the orbiter :)
I have an orbiter on both my ender 5. It's excellent, you can't max them out on an ender 5. I'm about to Frankenstein both of them too dual z axis corexy and install larger beds...... The orbiters will stay.
It seems you still don't have a fast 3d printer and/or you only print with pla With fast accelerating printers I'd say over 1500mm/s it is mandatory to have a DDE Try to print TPU with Bowden, good luck!
@@kerseyfabs I find your overall audio level to be lower than most videos. I have to turn the volume up for your stuff - which I do because I do want to hear what you have to say. :-)
i seen many reviews on this extruder and most of them had many problems. If e3d hemera or micro swiss is much better out of the box I would not save couple of bucks to have to fight the system.
@@court2379 Realistically you are not going to print so fast that it makes any difference. You are limited by the bed mass on most printers. If you are not limited by the bed you are limited by cooling. Something else than the extruder weight is the problem always. And on a corexy you would use something else anyway.
It does look like the 5015 fan is blocking the heat spreader on the side of the extruder? I know this has been mentioned before on different designs on Thingiverse. I’ve not had any clogs (yet?) but I’ve gone with another design which does not obstruct the heat spreader. Take a look at this picture: 1drv.ms/u/s!AoysAEwrpGiqj7E7rfuZUB8B5w4S-w
we all know bowden tube printers were invented for the single purpose of creating unnecessary jams, stuck filament and needless complications... no one will ever convince me otherwise (i have several feet of bowden tube with bits of filament permanently lodged inside rendering it absolutely useless)
I had one of these and the only notable thing about this particular brand/model was it's **horrible** quality control. It was completely bound up internally because of tolerances so sloppy it wouldn't even assemble correctly. I ended up with a Hemera and the quality and functionality difference was beyond night and day. The Hemera was an actual precision component. The Biqu was a slapped together piece of trash.
Ok. Bowden was invented, because the early gen 3D printers were stupidly bad and they needed a way to ease the shitty printer assembly. Nowadays with overbuilt machines, there is no way to go with bowden setups. Even on Marlin with low speeds and especially on Klipper
What do you mean by "no way to go with bowden setups?" I get phenomenal quality prints off of my bowden printers. Keep in mind that the overwhelming majority of 3D printers are not running Klipper and there are very few CoreXY on the market. When you're an enthusiast in a hobby, don't lose sight of where the majority of users are.
Bowden came about as an answer to print artefacts caused by the mass of the motor, which Kris explained in the video, I have used direct drive and swapped back to Bowden as I get better quality prints.
@@kerseyfabs I have this opinion, because I have had my very own bedslinger with a direct drive, which I since rebuilt for Klipper. And with a quality extruder and pancake stepper motor, it has had a really good performance for both normal prints and TPU. Talking conservative Marlin speeds at about 60mm/s
if this was linear rail not belt wouldnt it be completely different as far as layer lines and jerk ect making this video completely different and not a good video to compare direct drive vs non . if you do this video u should do it with the best intentions for correct printing
I like this video because I don't have linear rails on my E5+, so this is relevant to my printer. If he had done it on a machine with linear rails, it wouldn't have had much value for me at all. I suspect more of us are running stock hardware than linear rails.
There's no problems with my setup when it comes to print accuracy. I can show photos. But all of that is moot if the extruder is fundamentally flawed and unreliable. I couldn't even get to "does this improve print quality." I was stuck at "is this reliable."
Great video! (as usual ;) ) On my H2 the large gear is metal-colored, not black and the lever does come out fairly easy (I took it out to align the 2ns filament gear to the direct driven filament gear). I purchased it July this year from BTT. Perhaps there are different versions? On my E5+ the 2.0.9.1 firmware gives e stepper coil short circuit errors somewhere on the first 2 layers which stops the printer. BTT suggested to swap the drivers but that didn't help. Until I find a proper solution I'm back to 2.0.7.2 I find that the titanium heat brake seems a bit shorter that the standard ptfe heat brake. It is possible that my heat brake is not original as it was not purchased from BTT directly. I used this mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4889163 (used original metal bltouch mount) I used this 5015 fan mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4749419 I used a cable guide I designed myself. I'll upload it asap So far i've not had any clogs. Only printed PETG with the titanium heat brake so far.
Thank you! I have heard of people having their gears replaced by BTT. Maybe that's what they'll suggest in my case. My guess is that you may have some sort of intermittent short in your motor and maybe 2.0.7.2 is ignoring it but I can't be sure.
Hey thanks for still keeping up with mod videos for your ender 5 plus. I am new to 3D printing and your videos are great at showing what can be improved and almost more importantly what doesn’t need to be improved. I’m really happy with my ender 5 plus, but there’s a few small annoyances with it so it’s nice to have you as a resource to learn how I might go ahead and fix those issues.
I watched the entire video and really appreciate the effort and thoroughness of this review. I recently installed this on a heavily customized printer and I've had great luck, even with TPU. And that's with the all metal heat break from Biqu. One of of the differences I see is that my fan (a 4020 blower) is angled out at 30 degrees from the extruder. I don't know if that additional airflow makes a difference but I'm printing TPU at 260 degrees at 40mm/s with no signs of heat creep and it has yet to exhibit the binding issue unless I had the hot-end temp below 240. I also haven't had any softness issue on the PLA mounting place I made. That damn clicking though....that's universal.
I saw a post on Angus's review of the H2 that someone said the clicking can be fixed by repositioning the motor. That there is enough play in the mounting that it needs to be loosened and shifted a little and tightened.
I cannot confirm personally though.
Don't worry about being in-depth
We're here because you explain, because you do properly look into things. There are plenty of basic run-throughs of the basics. I tend to think of these more as vanity projects.
Keep up the good work bloke, thanks.
I appreciate that, I really do.
35:35 this also happened to me using regular PLA. Maybe its a common malfunction in this extruder but I think it's because our Biqu H2's are Version 1 (mine surely is) wich had many many problems with the gears. V2 is suposed to have already solved that fabrication problems, so i'll be looking to buy the correct one in the future. For everyone who wants to buy Biqu h2, make sure yours is V2, otherwise it will give you tons of problems... besides that it's a beast of extruder.
The problem with soft filaments is a design issue. If you look at any other direct drive system there is a peak path that leads to within 1mm of the bottom of the gears, which does not exist in this extruder. It would be easy for them to fix, but that is why it is failing. I don’t like the horizontal design either, as that addresses 100% of all your other issues, and is why the alternatives are vertical.
I’m actually using the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder & Hot End with a custom linear rails upgrade on the X & Y. I noticed a huge difference when I added the linear rails, as I can print faster with the exact same quality that I could previously only see at slower speeds. I know I can go even faster, but the Silent Creality MB is my current limiting factor, and doesn’t work well with accelerations over 500mm/s^2, so I’m upgrading to a BIGTREETECH MB.
Thanks for the feedback. That's a great point about the peak. I should have looked closer to notice that. While I didn't love the MS DD, it didn't cause me these kinds of problems.
Hello, thank you for your video. Regarding what you have mentioned, we suggest you: 1. lower the speed when your printer extrudes the flexible filament, 2. apply some thermal grease to the heatbreak, 3. We will further optimize it and reduce the noise.
Thanks for the tips! I'm still working on improving my results. I'll post an update if something changes.
@ BIQU 3D Printer : since day 1 I have gear binding issues, and your only "support"is to tell me that I have to buy myself a new better gear, and you even tell me that you don't have them in stock :( Your quality control has definitely issues ! And your support too ...
What are the basic suggested retaction settins ?
@@hansdegeytere you jad the version 1 or 2?
An issue I discovered with the H2 was after extruding some PLA for setup PPU and first layer Z offset calibration it wouldn't feed after cooling down and restarting. Found the PTFE tube was cut .060" short leaving a PLA disk formed at the heat break. Had to pull the thing apart to clear the jam. I cut another piece of PTFE slightly longer than the bore depth +.010" to resolve that.
Next issue was getting the gears to mesh properly. I ended up leaving the fasteners snug to dry run the extruder allowing the gear train to more or less set its own running clearances without binding. Then finally tightened the fasteners up. First run was TPU Success!
Thanks for the tips! I also had to recut my PTFE tube on one of my heatbreaks.
@41:10, idk on video at least, the H2 print looks way better to my eye, could just be the glossier finish covering up more, but it looks like you've got way worse z-banding on the Micro-Swiss model, and although the overhangs are less consistent, they look less droopy. a close up of the seams you're talking about would be helpful, because I didn't notice those at all
I am putting on a Biqu H2 v1 with all metal heat break right now on an Ender 6 pro. Did you end up swapping this extruder out for something different or figure out a better solution to all the clogs you were experiencing? Great videos!
Thank you! Yeah, I just recently switched to a ExoSlide Extruder. Check out my new video on it!
Thankyou so much for this video - I was thinking to give this a shot, but I don't think I need the stress
For the record, newer version of this seem to work a lot better. I'll be reviewing some in the future.
Biqu makes 2 versions of all metal heat brake. Steel and titanium, wich one are you using? Also this heat brake looks very similar to the one of E3d for chimera and kraken hot ends that are supposed to have, possibly, a super high grade machining quality. Do you have any around to check compatibiliy in size/shape?
I'm almost positive I have the stainless steel due to the cost of the original pack. I do have a Hemera and I can check that out.
The stock has a teflon liner inside that can be a bit short, all metal was a good pick.
As to the all metal ones, doubt they'll match as the h2 heatbreak has a flat edge and doesn't let the pfte sit inside as far as i can see
@@adanhu if the problem is only the flat edge it. Might be not so diffcult to recreate by the sand paper. I suppose thoug the flat edge is used to fix more strongly the hotend with a screw, in that case the hole might actually be round and fit the chimera heatbrake. All of that just assuming that e3d heatbrake is internally better machined than Biqu one (that might not be the case).
@@gentiligiuliano7882 looks like a rather prominent flat edge, but will depend on the slot and heatsink.
If anything i'd throw in the bimetal one from slice, clips i've seen get around a 30% drop in thermal conductivity at heatsink level compared to the v6 heatbreak
Unboxed H2 to install on E5+ (once current print finishes)... sit down and computer (to wait for print to finish) and find video about H2 on E5+!!!! Thank you!!! Please post the video of how exactly you installed it. .... After finishing the video I'm now wondering if it is worth the hassle to install on the E5+... it might be better served on my other (i3 style) printer. Thank you for this wonderful, honest review.
No problem! I'll get that video up ASAP. It is quite a lot of work with all of the crimping and soldering but at least it can transfer to another hotend install if you choose something else.
Great review. I bought the V2S for flexibles and only then found out it sucks for flexibles. Great.
Thanks and sorry to hear that.
thanks for the update, looking to upgrade but willing to wait
Do you think the Biqu H2 Bi-metal heat break option would improve upon the all-metal one you reviewed it with?
Love you focus on the ender 5 plus in a lot of your videos! I purchased my first printer a week ago and it was a 5+ and no one breaks everything down like you do!
Thanks! I'm glad you're finding these useful! I'll keep them coming!
I don't know much about this nozzle set up, but have fitted the microswiss, which needed some adjustment. It may not make much difference, but looking at your original assembly, if the nozzle is not up in the heat block, then it will not be reaching heat block temperature, and it looks as if the part cooling fan is also partly aiming at the nozzle. Also, the fact hat he heat block is nearer the extruder mech, then that will get hotter, too.
I've modified this setup on my latest tests and it looks very similar now to what you've described. I've even gone back to the original heatbreak. I'm getting more clogging than ever now.
Long video, but as always well produced. Thank you for your final comments where you were honest. And said you can't recommend it, it is not for you.
So many content providers that, sing the praises of anything, because they were sponsored, or slupplied free.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the comments.
Hi Kersey! Thanks for all the informative 3d printing videos, I appreciate what you do!
I've wanted to try out some TPU on my Biqu H2, but have put it off because I (as most) hate dealing with jams/clogged nozzles... Well, I finally decided to try it out and picked up some SainSmart 95A TPU which arrived yesterday.
I hit up CAD, created a case for my new cell phone, and printed it out using the SainSmart recommended temps and speeds (220 nozzle, 55 bed, 30mm/sec, .4 nozzle). To my shock/surprise, the thing printed out as designed on the first shot, I didn't even print a calibration test!
I've since had to print the case a few more times,as I've iterated on the design, and have been able to print at 60mm/sec at high quality - including 20mm bridges, consistently.
TPU aside, I'm getting more than advertised flow rates when printing PLA with good quality benchys coming in under 27 minutes. Once my part cooling situation is improved I'm pretty sure I can print even quicker with above average quality.
Of note, I've modified my Ender 5 Pro - converting it to a core xy using the Mercury One core xy conversion (totally recommended BTW).
In any event, I thought you'd like to hear from someone who'se had great success using the H2 with over 300 print hours on it, now printig PLA, PETG, ABS, and TPU. I'm happy to share videos/photos/slicer profiles - hit me up.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
I love hearing awesome success stories. It shows that one person's experience isn't the final word. Thanks for all of that and I'm really glad to hear that yours is working so well!
Thank you for the detailed review! I am looking at getting one of these to mount on my Ender 3 Pro.
Used Bowden for a year before switching over to DD about 18 months back. Will never look back. Print tolerance and quality went through the roof with properly tuned retraction and LA. Using 2 x H2 extruders and they are literally my go-to extruders for hassle free printing. I use the titanium heatbreak and have not had a single clog.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm going to keep working on my setup and see if I cab get the right balance.
I gues you want the nozzle all the way into the heatblock (14.30), the further its out u will loose heat due to that distance and eventuel fan blowing air. you dont want the filament cooling before its on the print. Also, if your nozzle is max inside the heatblock, the heatblock is further away from the extruder which is a good thing. you want the heatblock away from the extruder to minimize that warming up which causes filament to go soft and clog up. Im working on a better heatbreak between heatblock and extruder other than metal. metal conducts heat to well and you dont want that.
What is the inner diameter of your all metal hotend?
Great video, thanks.
I've been using for quite a while on an Ender 6 (sort of, since I've replaced the wheels, the board, the extruder... the frame is stock :D) without any major troubles. I only print with PLA & PETG and the only clogs were my fault (not seating the nozzles properly inside the block). I had a clicking issue when retracting (no missed eSteps) but was fixed with tape in the bearings inside the Biqu H2.
They now have a Revo version I'd love to see a review since the nozzle will replace the current nozzle + throat :)
Excuse me a bit off topic What connectors do u have spliced into your wiring
For more information on the installation process, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/VKGd_r_WF0g/видео.html
Ive enjoyed my bmg clone since i put it on. But didn't have many problems from my Bowden. Just wanted to try it and enjoying so far
What you want is an orbiter. It has solved most of the issues of the direct drive and is the best solution on the market currently, IMO.
I just ordered one. Thanks for the vote!
I am looking at getting the ender 5 plus. I want to print CF Nylon predominantly and maybe some flexibles. What type of hot end do you recommend? Would have loved to see this extruder with some high temp filaments!
I don't plan on doing much more with this extruder unless I find a specific use case. I don't have a good option at this time for a DD extruder but I have 3 more in the works. As for just the hotend, get a Micro Swiss. I have one on all of my workhorse printers.
Awesome thanks for the reply!
What is that filament you printed that mermaid in the back out of?
Also how did you match the cables from the ender extruder to the h2 cables?
(The h2 is 5 colors and the ender 5 is all black with symbols on each wire.)
Here's a link to the filament: amzn.to/3cx2LEU
I have an install video on the channel. You can take a look here for details: ruclips.net/video/VKGd_r_WF0g/видео.html
@@kerseyfabs Sweet, thank you : D
Hey Jersey I just finished setting this up on my Ender 6 with the Titanium heat break on a Biqu H2 running klipper. What is the max temp I can set that too is it 500c and do I just do it in the printer.cfg file in Klipper? Took me about 4 days straight to get it printing right and I have had no clogs touch wood. Mine came with the upgrade kit to fix the locking up. I am printing at 250mms and my prints are coming out pretty much perfect. Thanks for sharing your experience mate.
The max temp with the stock thermistor will be around 300C. If you want to go higher, you will have to upgrade your thermistor and possibly your heating cartridge. I'm glad your is working well!
@@kerseyfabs thanks for the reply mate
Great review! Thanks for all the information. Looking forward to your installation video next.
Thanks for watching!
Did you consider matrix lite? Same weight but bi metal
No, that's a new one for me. There seems to be a ton of new extruders on the market. I'll put this one on the list though.
@@kerseyfabs is there? I’ve only noticed discrete extruders using bmg gears and combined units that actually have everything with hemera clones and actual hemera
There's someone else on RUclips with one of these that decided to drill an access hole in the front to be able to take the heatbrake out without disassembling the extruder.
Excellent video Kris, and yeah, I watched it all! I have a similar DD (Hemera V6) and have had my bout of clogs. The teardown is almost the same, and it's a 30-minute process to dis-assemble/clean/re-assemble. Then setup is another 5-10 minutes. So, I feel your pain. A while ago I had a FB ad pop up for this no-clogger device and I think you should try it. I've had a 50-50 success rate. 100% on the Ender5Plus, and 0% on the Ender 5Pro. Both have had 2 clogs since buying this device. This isn't a sales pitch, just thought you should look into it. And once again great info!
Exactly. Most direct drives are heavy and don't have dual direct drive. I am looking for a inexpensive direct drive extruder that works and also I would like multiple colors. :0) I agree. And I do have all direct drive.
Very nice video, thank you for your efforts. Now that I have buttered you up, do you have a link for the all-metal heat breaks that you are using? I just want to make sure I get the right ones. Thank you!
Thanks for that and no need for butter. 😆 I've added the link to the description and here you go for convenience: www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-bx-all-metal-throat-stainless-steel-titanium-alloy-heat-break-3d-printer-accessories-for-biqu-h2-extruder-3d-printer-parts?variant=32093850828898
I believe I received the stainless heatbreak based on cost but it wasn't clear.
Curiously, i found your video because i was looking for a review of H2 extruder because i want one for my ender 5. At least curious. Like from Spain!
would be great to see some updated versions, they have a water cooled version as well as a smart sensor one that detects jams clogging breakages etc (this one is on sell still for$84 reg priced at $199) the Titanium heat breaks to would be nice to see as well, there is also the Hermit Crab but guess it's also used with other hot end extruder tools and combos.. there is no videos on the H2-Smart guess you can run the H2's at 500-Celsius now going to buy the H2O version my self already have the smart and standard V2 (came on the BIQU BX)
I have one of these BIQU H2 extruders on my Ender 3 V2. I'm using the PTFE lined heatbrake for now, I have the titanium heatbrake in case I want to try high temp filaments. I haven't had any clogging issues (yet). I applied thermal paste to the PTFE heatbrake and made sure my nozzle does not bottom out on the hotend, but instead bottoms out against the heatbrake. If you allow a gap between the nozzle and the heatbrake, filament can ooze out the top of the hotend through the threads for the heatbrake.
What speeds did you encounter jams with flexibles? I'm printing 95A TPU at 40mm/s without jamming.
Edit: I also have clicking issues during retractions. It comes down to a design flaw with this extruder where there is no way to accurately set the distance between the gears to control the backlash. I have thought about printing a jig that I could set the extruder inside of with fine thread screws to allow me to accurately position the stepper motor within the extruder housing to correct the backlash in the gears. For now though, I'm living with the clicking sound.. I just added some heavy duty high tack grease to the gears to help protect them from the incorrect backlash.
backlash issues like crazy here too.... sucks cause I hate having to remove the whole hot end assembly to fix it which means I go printerless for a few months until I absolutely need to print something smh
Have you seen the new version they released recently? It's supposed to allow you to remove the heatbrake without having to disassemble the whole extruder.
@@NathanielHatley I haven't... Is it still the h2?
@@docmalc47 Yeah, H2 V2.0
@@NathanielHatley it's one thing to sell a v2 when it offers improvements and additional features from a V1.
It's a whole other thing when you sell a v2 that merely fixes design flaws and issues of V1...
I think it's disrespectful to sell your V1 customers a fix for something that shouldn't have been released with.
I thought that Biqu suggested the installation of a larger cooling fan for more delicate filaments and higher temperatures, maybe fitting a 4010 or 4020 to replace the 3510 would give you better results.
hello, thanks for this video, for me it's a no go. The motor is not powerful enough and must heat up, I prefer a solution with a microsuiss and a bmg.
that said I have a problem on my ender 5+, I find that we see a lot of layers,... any idea?
Well, I honestly have to say the motor seems to have plenty of power. With the gearing, it really can pull some filament. The heating is a problem though IMO.
As for seeing too many layers, I'm not sure exactly what you're seeing but you could try smaller layer sizes such as 0.15 or 0.1mm.
Will be interested to see what else you try.
I appreciate the ender 5 plus mod videos u are my number one source of feed back and things to do and not do with my ender 5!!
Great review I will not be buying that any time soon. I want to print tpu in the future. I will wait till they improve on it a little. Thanks.
Nozzle never should be flush or you have no room to hot tighten. The only hotend I have seen that it doesn’t matter is the new Revo system because there is no gap between the nozzle and heat break.
I think the clicking you hear is backlash in the gear. Take your extruder without filament and rotate the gear sticking out (back driving the motor), you will hear and feel a click each direction change. I tried to grease mine as well, but there is too much slop in the gear.
I agree!
the clicking is the barring at the end of the pins. there is slop in the inside
Yeah. I've heard the newer versions are better.
@6:10 "I think they're the same." Actually, a bunch of us have different iterations. It seems the earliest versions have been problematic. I think, by now, (August 2021), if you order one, you will get a better version. For instance, the first iterations had the cosmetic issue of the motor plug being oriented downward instead of up like yours. And yes, I am having issues, too. [Not pulling filament evenly.]
I have one I just ordered a couple of weeks ago. I'll take a look.
@@kerseyfabs Good luck, my iteration does not have the press-fit motor housing section screwed to the motor and the motor was positioned facing down. Also, the wiring was reversed, so Marlin had to be adjusted to account for it. Yes, I agree: a lot of work, more than I expected; yet, I really want this thing to work. Again, good luck. [Ender-3 with BTT SKR E3 Mini v1.2 motherboard]
Hey Kersey, could you maybe do a video were you try to setup a Cr-touch on a ender-5 plus? I made the mistake of buying one for mine and sadly couldn't make it work but I like to imagine you have the talent to pull it off.
I have one. I'll look into it. Do you mean on a stock mainboard?
I just ordered one of these did you lose any print space with this setup and if you did how did you regain it
No. I didn't lose any print space.
Is there any chance you are getting heat creep causing a block maybe it could be solved with a bimetallic heat break? I'm sure you solved this problem already by now but its what I would have tried?
I haven't solved it yet and it been removed from my printer at this point. To your point though, yes, it may work. I may try it in the future but I didn't have one at the time.
@@kerseyfabs Well if you do try it will you reply to me at some point because I am going to buy a BIQU H2 for a thinker SE. But you kind of put me off!!!!
I highly recommend the bimetallic from slice its a bit pricey for a heat break but it's an impressive piece of kit!
If I get back to it, I'll let you know.
I've been having problems with the bowden couplers failing at the extruder, and I've been considering going direct drive. Before I do, are there any reliable brands of couplers(or alternatives) that you recommend?
I recommend going dd. A couple things to consider though are your printers ability and your goals. I have two ender 5s using orbiter 1.5 extruders.. that are awesome for my purposes. That said, I print a lot of Petg and have an interest in other filaments than pla. Every complaint about direct drive can be overcome. If you're willing to use klipper or RRF you can use a accelerometer and implement input shaping.. that will overcome most ringing, From the extruders and otherwise. You can use bigger steppers to counteract the weight and even then you will benefit in terms of acceleration and jerk. I never could get pressure advance to work with a single gear Bowden, I realized I'd need a bmg extruder or something like that, instead I went with the orbiters, they have been pretty low bs. I've printed 100s of hours on both machines since the upgrade. Just started doing tpu and it is flawless.
I did want to add that additionally. Should you pick a direct drive option pay very close attention to weight and gearing. For high precision task. Backlash will screw up everything, the orbiter has a tiny amount though it's barely noticeable. This is true for all current geared extruders. A pet project of mine is too integrate a double cycloidal gear reduction into an extruder.... Zero backlash.
@@notsam498 I had my eye on the Micro Swiss DD package. It seems to be a popular option. Any opinion on that one?
@@jakesells2379 personally I wouldn't buy it. It is heavy with little clear advantages to newer dd options. I use modified micro Swiss at the moment.. There dd system is just too heavy though. I think the BMG derivatives such as . Orbiter, actual BMG, Sherpa mini, voron afterburner... Those are the good ones. They are light and powerful. The only downside is that you need to change a lot more settings. For starters your stepsmm and driving current will dramatically change. So will absolutely all your slicer settings related to extrusion rate or retraction.
@@notsam498 Ok! Thanks for the advice!
I modded one of my E5+ with Exoslide rails and a Hemera extruder. It works quite well for PLA/PETG, but not noticeably better than the stock Bowden based hot end. I originally acquired this to work with higher temp materials like ABS, but haven't gone there just yet.
That said, it was probably 20 hours over 2+ weeks to get everything converted, all the bugs worked out, and get everything realigned. Not sure it was worth the hassle and expense.
Thanks for the feedback. I still appreciate the low maintenance of the ExoSlide but the more I've modded for direct drive, the less I've been impressed.
Very similar experience. I liked the Hemera, but had some with the bad gear train problem 2020 spring, and support was non-existant. I think the Hemera gear system is too finely machined. Normally this would be good, but when you have filament dust and flakes it can get into the fine gears and cause big problems. I now have the X-change tooling system and Exoslides on my E 5s and E5 Plus with OmniaDrop hot ends. About a 2 minute swap in case anything goes wrong.
@@kerseyfabs The biggest problem is the loss of some Y print area, and some more mass.
Is there a reason you are still using the bowden (sp?) tube. I have seen other videos of printers using a direct drive & they don't use the bowden (sp?) tube.
It's just a clean way to route the filament from the back of the machine to the extruder. It's just a rigid path. With larger printers especially, this helps keep the filament from getting hung up.
@@kerseyfabs Thank you for the information.
From todays perspective: what is you first selection for an ultimate compromise of all ? Far better than original but when it comes to extreme conditions need to compromise without the need of change to different solution.
What would be my selection for a direct drive extruder?
@@kerseyfabs extruder & hotend (separately or as all-in-one package?). I am curious what will be the selection of a pro-maker. Orbiter extruder V2.0 sounds interesting for me plus maybe a Spider or mosquito hotend but for sure you have tested quite some and have better opinion and recommendations for that.
Thanks for a great review and the subsequent comeback one you printed some more. I did purchaser th3 H2 and I am a little concerned. . Keep up the good work. Thanks p.s. youtube speed 1.5 works well for me. ;-)
I have a CR10 and a ender 5 pro , on what printer you reccomend me to install it?
I didn't love this extruder... so neither?
@@kerseyfabs so did you kept running into issues?
@@kerseyfabs have you tried the vesion 2?
I didn't use it long after this video. I haven't tried version 2 yet.
Point of order: Bowden machines are over 100 years old. You are talking about 3d printer extruders using bowden tubes being designed, not "Bowden tubes being invented". Originally, bowden tubes were used to move force from a point which you couldn't realistically move to a place where the force is applied(automobile clutch, bicycle brakes)
Thank you!
You bet! 👍
Thank you for a honest review, I have looked on this one and an orbiter to change from my micro swiss, the micro swiss works good, but it doesnt really work so good with tpu, but it might be my settings..but I would really like see a review in the future with the orbiter :)
Glad it was helpful!
I don't get h2 on biqu BX printer working with tpu, too. Tried different settings, very slow speed, anybody any ideas?
I have an orbiter on both my ender 5. It's excellent, you can't max them out on an ender 5. I'm about to Frankenstein both of them too dual z axis corexy and install larger beds...... The orbiters will stay.
Good to hear. Which mounting/cooling did you go with?
@@kerseyfabs I'm using Hydra, with 5015 fans.
Unless you're trying to print TPU, I don't see the reason for direct drive.
We print 250+ spools of PETG a year and use all direct drive for easier tuning and better finish consistency.
I have 1 machine running a direct drive because I run a .2 nozzle on it for tiny detail work.
@@jamesmason2841 nice! We ran a .25 recently for some tap handles for a brewery but usually all .4 nozzle.
Unless you’re printing speed benchies, I don’t see the reason for Bowden tube drive.
I love the direct drive. I would like to see how you tune it and what it looks like after with Deadpool. :0)
No thermal grease on the heatbreak threads??!?
It's really not necessary. The difference in results should be minimal. In fact, it may make this hot end worse due to the heat build up I saw.
You should look into the Orbiter too, it's so darn cute, LOL!
I'm considering that after I try out the Hemera.
gracias por la información, seria genial una revisión del BMG Wind de Mellow
¡Gracias! Veré si puedo trabajar en ello.
i made it to the end!
Congrats! 🔥
Another good one Chris. I'll steer clear of this dd system. For some reason I had to re-subscribe.👍
Thanks for the re-subscribe John. I'm going to keep working on it. Maybe I'll get it sorted.
It seems you still don't have a fast 3d printer and/or you only print with pla
With fast accelerating printers I'd say over 1500mm/s it is mandatory to have a DDE
Try to print TPU with Bowden, good luck!
Given that you configure your extruder settings independently of your motion settings, I don't think you're right on this one.
@@kerseyfabs For now, someday you will change your mind;)
I don't know if I'll change my mind on the facts of the matter but I'm sure I'll find a DD extruder I like when I take the time to do it.
Judging by the black gears you appear to have a v1 H2. The newer models have silver gears and work far better.
is it me or is the audio REALLY low?
No one else has complained but I'll be sure to double check the next video. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs I find your overall audio level to be lower than most videos. I have to turn the volume up for your stuff - which I do because I do want to hear what you have to say. :-)
My next video will use a new audio leveling algorithm and values. It's based on a lot of research. I hope it improves things! Feel free to comment.
is this v1 or v2?
This is the original.
i seen many reviews on this extruder and most of them had many problems. If e3d hemera or micro swiss is much better out of the box I would not save couple of bucks to have to fight the system.
Thanks Tommi! I've seen mixed reviews too. I'm still working on mine though. I hope to come back with an update later.
The H2 is significantly lighter though, and the others have issues too. You cannot win it seems.
@@court2379 You wont gain anything by having it lighter than hemera. I havent had anything wrong with hemera.
@@TommiHonkonen That entirely depends on how fast you are printing.
@@court2379 Realistically you are not going to print so fast that it makes any difference. You are limited by the bed mass on most printers. If you are not limited by the bed you are limited by cooling. Something else than the extruder weight is the problem always. And on a corexy you would use something else anyway.
It does look like the 5015 fan is blocking the heat spreader on the side of the extruder? I know this has been mentioned before on different designs on Thingiverse.
I’ve not had any clogs (yet?) but I’ve gone with another design which does not obstruct the heat spreader.
Take a look at this picture:
1drv.ms/u/s!AoysAEwrpGiqj7E7rfuZUB8B5w4S-w
Thanks for the idea! I did check this and it's not blocking the fan exhaust at all.
photos.app.goo.gl/YX9JAMa1QzFu5fF58
@@kerseyfabs Hmm.. That’s a shame. Would have been way easier if yours blocked and that was the reason. Back to the drawing board then 😬
we all know bowden tube printers were invented for the single purpose of creating unnecessary jams, stuck filament and needless complications... no one will ever convince me otherwise (i have several feet of bowden tube with bits of filament permanently lodged inside rendering it absolutely useless)
You sure that is all metal the original H2 had a junk PTFE tube in it
Yep. Ordered it separately. I even replaced the PTFE liner with a premium one. Still no luck!
Mind sharing a link for those hex head screwdrivers? 🪛
I had one of these and the only notable thing about this particular brand/model was it's **horrible** quality control. It was completely bound up internally because of tolerances so sloppy it wouldn't even assemble correctly. I ended up with a Hemera and the quality and functionality difference was beyond night and day. The Hemera was an actual precision component. The Biqu was a slapped together piece of trash.
Ok. Bowden was invented, because the early gen 3D printers were stupidly bad and they needed a way to ease the shitty printer assembly. Nowadays with overbuilt machines, there is no way to go with bowden setups. Even on Marlin with low speeds and especially on Klipper
What do you mean by "no way to go with bowden setups?" I get phenomenal quality prints off of my bowden printers. Keep in mind that the overwhelming majority of 3D printers are not running Klipper and there are very few CoreXY on the market. When you're an enthusiast in a hobby, don't lose sight of where the majority of users are.
Bowden came about as an answer to print artefacts caused by the mass of the motor, which Kris explained in the video, I have used direct drive and swapped back to Bowden as I get better quality prints.
@@kerseyfabs I have this opinion, because I have had my very own bedslinger with a direct drive, which I since rebuilt for Klipper. And with a quality extruder and pancake stepper motor, it has had a really good performance for both normal prints and TPU. Talking conservative Marlin speeds at about 60mm/s
shorten video by 1/3 and you can literally take over the internet
I've been working on that a lot over the past couple of years. Thanks!
if this was linear rail not belt wouldnt it be completely different as far as layer lines and jerk ect making this video completely different and not a good video to compare direct drive vs non . if you do this video u should do it with the best intentions for correct printing
I like this video because I don't have linear rails on my E5+, so this is relevant to my printer. If he had done it on a machine with linear rails, it wouldn't have had much value for me at all. I suspect more of us are running stock hardware than linear rails.
There's no problems with my setup when it comes to print accuracy. I can show photos. But all of that is moot if the extruder is fundamentally flawed and unreliable. I couldn't even get to "does this improve print quality." I was stuck at "is this reliable."
looks like rubbish to me wouldn't put that toy on my printer
Great video! (as usual ;) )
On my H2 the large gear is metal-colored, not black and the lever does come out fairly easy (I took it out to align the 2ns filament gear to the direct driven filament gear). I purchased it July this year from BTT. Perhaps there are different versions?
On my E5+ the 2.0.9.1 firmware gives e stepper coil short circuit errors somewhere on the first 2 layers which stops the printer. BTT suggested to swap the drivers but that didn't help. Until I find a proper solution I'm back to 2.0.7.2
I find that the titanium heat brake seems a bit shorter that the standard ptfe heat brake. It is possible that my heat brake is not original as it was not purchased from BTT directly.
I used this mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4889163 (used original metal bltouch mount)
I used this 5015 fan mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4749419
I used a cable guide I designed myself. I'll upload it asap
So far i've not had any clogs. Only printed PETG with the titanium heat brake so far.
Thank you! I have heard of people having their gears replaced by BTT. Maybe that's what they'll suggest in my case.
My guess is that you may have some sort of intermittent short in your motor and maybe 2.0.7.2 is ignoring it but I can't be sure.
Here is the cable guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4936570