This is a job hundreds of thousands of people should be doing, kudos to you James for highlighting such an important issue. Saw the front of a 60's/70's timber frame house come off down my road last week, it was wavy edge board, a bit of rockwool and then the plasterboard. The thing was not much better than a shed! Needless to say it was sopping wet, must have been grim in the bedrooms. Hopefully your place it warmer now. Just a shame more folk have not seen this great vid.
Thank you for this video. We want to get this done for aesthetic reasons. Currently, we have hexagonal green tiles, which have brickwork behind so the need to insulate isn’t as great… but hoping shopping some celotex or similar in there and then cladding with uPVC will up the uValue!
Our 1960s house has this facade as well but it also has block-work behind. It's still badly insulated though. Must be different construction methods across the various developers at the time..
I think you done a good job, how much do you think this would cost with materials and labour for front/back as my house is wall tiled just like yours? I like that you used the metal brackets to strengthen the joints between wall and batton.
I've done a fair amount of cement board siding. But there's one job that's been weird. It's a full timber constructed house but between the two bedrooms upstairs the plasterboard is literally set back external to the windows and has like an insulated asbestos sheet backing. Bizarre
Great video. I have this on the back of my house, however I'm looking to build a timber frame extension which would mean having a top wall plate batten running across the cladding. Would you suggest I need to remove the cladding first or can I fix directly into the cladding, ideally into the furring strips to get a better fixing?
Excellent Video very helpful with all gas prices going up, can you please let me know if multifoil insulation can be good option instead of Pir? Can we get say same level of insulation from 30mm Multifoil to 50mm Pir?
I haven't used multifoil or BreatherQuilt, but with the price of PIR increasing, a foil system might be the better option. I haven't looked into PIR vs Foil, but it seems like both would do the job.
Great video. I have a 60s ex council house. Is it normal to just have a wooden frame under the windows downstairs and upstairs? I currently have wooden cladding on outside?
It was a very popular style in the 60’s. Panel construction used less labour so was cheaper and to be fair, is not a bad style of construction. I do recommend putting some insulation in there if you can.
Hi Brilliant Vid James! We have same row of external tiled panel on similar age property - in our case a block of flats. We were wondering what's behind the wall tiles. Shocked to see it!!! Our block is having a lot of condensation issues inside flats both below and above the row of tiling. Do you think draft getting in behind the row of tiles can make its way into the wall cavities throughout the building, thus making the internal walls below and above the row of tiles (not just behind) extra cold & thus causing condensation issues? Do you know how the tiled panel joins up with the cavity wall below and above and are there gaps into the cavity wall from behind the panel? Also have you or anyone any idea why buildings had these tiles put on rather than a wall back in those days? Would appreciate any comments :-)
Hi, yes, a draft can get in. the original wood is not airtight. Condensation is all about the Due Point, which is affected by the temperature of the air, the water content in the air, the temperature of the surface and the air-flow. Warming up the walls and internal air-temp should reduce condensation, but it depends where the water is coming from (showers with no extractor fan, drying clothes inside, etc..) You normally have to do a few different things to get rid of condensation and increasing the insulation is only one of the things. I blocked up the small gaps around the wood in the cavity with silicon sealant, but some airflow is not necessarily a bad thing. I only did that so the little polystyrene balls didn't escape when I had the cavity walls filled, which I had done a few weeks afterwards. So in summary, yes, it should help reduce the condensation, but it depends on what's causing the condensation. Houses were built this way due to the high price of bricklayers (due to bricklayer unions and the 2nd world war taking workers out of the industry) Wooden frames as walls were very popular in the 60's.. started being phased out in the 70's and by the 1985 were breaching building regs due to the poor thermal value.
@@jameslincs Hi James. Thanks so much for your response. Understand about needing to do a few things to tackle condensation. In my flat I installed extra ventilation and had a polystyrene layer added to offending walls to warm them up and stop severe condensation. Dehumidifier is used whenever drying clothes and door shut with extractor fan left on after showers. Other flats also have similar condensation damp issues. Our attention has now turned to the row of tiling as possibly having an effect on the internal walls being so cold. We would like to have cavity wall insulation done but were advised we need to resolve the damp issues first as otherwise it could cause more problems. However, if the damp turns out to be solely to do with the temperature of the walls then cavity walls insulation maybe needed to sort out the damp. Thanks so much for the info about why wooden frames were popular in the 60s. Am amazed! Would never have guessed that the reason! Didn't see that when Googling either. We wondered if it was about giving extra protection to walls - but after seeing your vid, clearly not as there are no brick built walls at all underneath! Goodness. Were there other good options to UPVC that you considered replacing the tiles with? Also when you had cavity insulation done did they need to separately spray under and over the wooden wall section? Thanks so much for your helpful vid and comments - massively appreciated!
@@gaiaum maybe they are concerned that the damp is from the gutters leaking into the cavity. We had to have new gutters before we could get cavity insulation installed. Yes, they will put it above and below the wooden panels (if there is any brick above the panel area, which their normally isn’t, at least, not on a house anyway)
@@jameslincs Wow That's got us thinking! Our block is 3 storey with two rows of tiled sections & two rows of painted white sections next to windows (above lower brick layer). Now wondering if the white sections are similar wall construction to the tiled sections - always thought it was mad to have white sections which need expensive painting maintenance (with scaffolding as so high) & wondered why the original builders didn't follow through with the brick. Looks likely they are also stud walls, covered in render, as it sounds unlikely as you say that there would be brick built above tiled panel sections, seeing as the tiled sections have no brick wall behind! Goodness! Well this has certainly been an eye opener! We will investigate further now... Thank you so much for your post and advice - so helpful and much appreciated! 👍😃
1:41 Using wood framing in these sections probably made sense because the windows alone would never support the weight of a brick&block wall, so one would need either heavy mullions or heavy lintels to support the weight of masonry, and that would involve a lot of complication and skill. My front wall is all masonry, but my next-door neighbors house, which shares a wall with mine, has an upstairs bumpout to make room for a 3rd bedroom, and that's framed in wood for similar reasons.
Really helpful as i'm about to have a go at this, 2" of rockwool just isn't enough! I'm curious what the brackets are you are talking about? Haven't seen them anywhere.
Thanks. I bought these from B and Q or Homebase or maybe screwfix. they are just generic right angle brackets. Cheap to buy and maybe not necessary, but I like to go a bit OTT with the screwdriver sometimes.
@@jameslincs oh I meant the insulation brackets you mentioned sorry! I've seen / heard of hanging brackets - having a challenging finding information on how to install them tho. Keep searching I guess!
Are these tiles easy to remove if they cover your’s and your neighbours house…. We are semi-detached and these cover ours and the house next door…… Can they be cut? Or just remove half of them from the wall?
@@almeida4eva best to speak with the neighbours before doing the work, but yes the tiles are easy to remove and can be cut (use a diamond cutting grinder disc). Hopefully the neighbours will want to also insulate their house and they might help pay for the work/materials.
the challenge here is how to do it, nothing really comes up when i search and there is a challenge of window placement and support - especially for big windows - which seems to be the main issue with external insulation that is rendered as the windows stay where they are which isnt ideal. If you have any more detail on converting do let me know!
Stelian Dan ....it’s just normal roofing felt (no stones on it, lol) you can get if from any builders merchant, it’s nothing special. I’ve seen some with black plastic sheets, and some with very heavy duty tarred felt. It doesn’t need to be breathable, because its not sealed air tight at the edge. I guess it’s just there in case any rain was blown up through the cladding.
Hi, it made the house much easier to heat. The winter before the boiler used to run for hours and hours but now it comes on for 1 hour and then turns off because the house is warm and holds onto the heat much longer. It’s reduced the heating bills. We also had cavity wall installation installed afterwards so it’s hard to work out how much of the difference is from that, but I have no doubt that insulating the panels is a good idea. If I moved to a another house with these panels I would definitely put some insulation in there like this. There is a noticeable improvement (there used to be a draft under the bedroom floor boards making the bedroom floor cold and this also cured that problem)
Nice job you've done of that, 120mm is a bit overkill though, the spec for a wall like that would only require around 75mm but it won't be cold that's for sure lol
I got a 6m tower (£350 on ebay) and used it in the formation shown (2x 3m towers) and walked on a Youngman board (£90 also off ebay). The walking platform is about 2m off the ground. ...I sold the towers and board afterwards for the same price I paid for them (actually I think I made £10 profit on the Youngman board) The House is nice and warm in winter now, (cooler in summer).. so glad we did this to it. Money and time well spent.
@@jameslincs Thanks very much. Got a similar job to do around the bay window so will need to get a tower. The heat savings will pay off but good to hear you made a small profit :) All the best
@@shirish2420 I strapped the tower together with little ratchet scraps, which made it much more stable, so that’s a good idea. Hope the Bay Window goes well. Cheers
They are sometimes called Peg tiles or Rosemary tiles. I expect you can get them on eBay or a builders merchant might be able to get them. Clay Tiles are not normally as thermally efficient as plastic which might be why they are less popular these days, but I expect you can still get them if you prefer the look of clay tiles.
@@progpuss after researching the options, I decided not to put in a membrane (normally a polythene sheet) to stop moisture, so any moisture is free to move in and out. The insulation is good enough to stop problems of ‘cold bridging’ and so we have had absolutely no issues with moisture on either side of the house (north side or south side). Honestly I think I made the right decision, as if any moisture does get in, it can easily get out the same way it got in.
Nope, I looked into vapour barriers (basically plastic sheets) and found they themselves are the cause of condensation and mould. The foam is waterproof anyway. If any moisture somehow gets in, it can escape through the fibreboards, or the same way it got in, so I decided that no additional ventilation is required. They have used spray foam in American timber frame houses for years and so far, no damage to the wood. if anything, it's probably more likely to protect the wood, plus the foam is fire-resistant. the house is so much warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and less drafty, well worth doing.
No, not unless it’s a listed building. I think my neighbours might have objected if I had done it bright pink or something, but I could have if I wanted to, as it’s not a planning issue. Flashing lights or glow in the dark can be considered forms of light pollution, so that might need permission in some rare circumstances, such as if you are near a busy road, meaning it might distract drivers... so common sense should apply. Their might be specific restrictions if you live in a conversation area. You can research and should respect any conservation restrictions... if you want to breach a conservation restriction, you will need permission. but if you’re a normal house in a normal area planning a normal improvement like this, then you don’t need planning permission. Building regulations will apply, but that just means that you can’t make it worse than it currently is, which you obviously wouldn’t do anyway. You are not required to meet building regs of the modern standard, just the regs that were in place when the house was built. (If there were any in place) Thanks
Quite the opposite, you don't want any gaps as it makes the insulation only 50% as effective. being sealed keeps out moisture. This kind of insulation is hydrophobic, so it won't absorb moisture from condensation. There is a gap between the outer PVC panels and the insulation, but that's just to let any rain that happens to get through the uPVC panels to be able to drain out. It using Rockwool in a bag, it would be a different story, as you would get condensation problems on the plastic lining, but that won't happen here. no problems so far anyway.,
@@DannySimpson-y8l i personally think it is well worth doing, but obviously all houses are slightly different and maybe you should take some professional advice regarding ventilation etc.. my house has been fine (so far), but I can’t make any guarantees, as your situation might be different. You never know exactly the situation until you’re at the property, so always use common sense and maybe get professional advice if you are unsure about it. (I was a roofer before and so I know a lot of things that I forget to mention). For example, a house by the sea or that has driving rain or is normally prone to condensation problems (built in wardrobe or something on that wall, etc.) might change the advice regarding ventilation. Every house is different (even identical houses) due to different weather conditions, different lifestyle factors, (drying clothes inside, heating on more less, etc) so if you do the same to your house, it’s at your own risk. But in general, you don’t need any ventilation between the insulation and the inside walls, any moisture that is absorbed by the inside walls will also be drawn out from them, so it should just make the situation better. However, if you do leave a gap and rain water blows in, but then can’t escape, that could be a problem, which is why the gap between the upvc and the outside of the insulation is a good idea (to let that rain escape) Hope all that makes sense. I’m thinking about offering this service to customers. No one ever asks for it, but it makes sense to do it. What do you think folks would pay for me and my workers to come and do it professionally?
You've made it look easy. But I'm sure it's abit more of a pain for a diyer with no experience. So maybe some people would pay yer. God know how much I'd pay tho. Looks like a 1 day job right ? Labour for one day + materials?
First of all please next time use treated timber otherwise you’ll be replacing it in few years also wood is one of the best insulation materials so no need over doing it with extra insulation
The internal vapor barrier is required in some parts of the USA, but some people argue that it's unnecessary and could even trap moisture in the cavity. They claim that air current are what brings in the moisture that causes condensation. Paper, or uninterrupted drywall will keep interior air from entering the cavity, so if it's air sealed, that should be enough to avoid condensation.
I’ve never heard of anyone getting rats in these walls, but in theory you could I guess. Best not to leave any food lying around that might attract rats. Having this insulation installed probably reduces the chance of getting rats vs having nothing or having rock-wool, but I’m not aware of any studies on the topic.
@@jameslincs Everyone thinks rat's are looking for food, they will eat your food but if they can get in the drains / sewer they have all they need to live. They come into homes for heat. The reason I said anything was because your house is almost identical to mine and they was getting into the cavity and then into the tile panel and under our floors.
Mmmm, James , clearly not a tradesman ?. Lath ? Lath? It’s a batten mush ? What would you call a lath and plaster wall ? No d.p.m sooooo much cold bridging , bad practise everywhere . Felt ? No breathable membrane . Ingress of vermin there ? Plastic ? Nice in keeping clay tile would be better . No weather proofing at all ? Get a trade they said ? Never be out of work ? Why did I do a 5 year apprenticeship ??? Should be a law about d.I fecking y ? Oh well when it’s sold a good surveyor will rip it apart ? Sorry to be honest .
Hi Paul, thanks for your input. I’m not a tradesman, but I am a RICS qualified estate agent. This is a vast improvement on what was there before. Many properties on the street have chosen the white PVC style (I quite like it), and I’m 100% sure it won’t cause any problems when selling. I have over 20 years experience of selling these kinds of properties and I’ve seen all kinds on improvements in that time. This improvement (while perhaps not as good as a professional builder would do) works well and improves the property, so should actually add value. (Not that I’m thinking of selling. We love this place).
Have a similar house (1968 build) with those same green tiles, this is a real eye opener! Many thanks for sharing!
This is a job hundreds of thousands of people should be doing, kudos to you James for highlighting such an important issue. Saw the front of a 60's/70's timber frame house come off down my road last week, it was wavy edge board, a bit of rockwool and then the plasterboard. The thing was not much better than a shed! Needless to say it was sopping wet, must have been grim in the bedrooms. Hopefully your place it warmer now. Just a shame more folk have not seen this great vid.
Danny Murphy yes it’s much warmer and dryer with no drafts now. Much better.
You speak old timey 😁 (hi dad/ James)
This is a bloody brilliant video - answered all my questions regarding my similar situation in my house.
Nice job, really highlights the price increase of building materials in the last 5 years 🤑
Great video, you explained everything 👍
This is exactly the same as my house ! 👍🏻 need to do this myself great video
Great!
Thank you for this video. We want to get this done for aesthetic reasons.
Currently, we have hexagonal green tiles, which have brickwork behind so the need to insulate isn’t as great… but hoping shopping some celotex or similar in there and then cladding with uPVC will up the uValue!
Just stumbled across this, thanks really informative.
Glad your finding it alright! :)
Well done… surprised it was originally only timber framework with no insulation, I thought it would be concrete blocks behind the tile cladding.
Our 1960s house has this facade as well but it also has block-work behind. It's still badly insulated though. Must be different construction methods across the various developers at the time..
Well done lots of questions answered.
I think you done a good job, how much do you think this would cost with materials and labour for front/back as my house is wall tiled just like yours? I like that you used the metal brackets to strengthen the joints between wall and batton.
Things seem to have gone up in price since I did this, so I would guess £1,500 to have it done. Depends on size of house, location, etc.
I've done a fair amount of cement board siding. But there's one job that's been weird. It's a full timber constructed house but between the two bedrooms upstairs the plasterboard is literally set back external to the windows and has like an insulated asbestos sheet backing. Bizarre
Interesting well done. Thinking to do a similar thing to my property.
Lovely jobley
Great video. I have this on the back of my house, however I'm looking to build a timber frame extension which would mean having a top wall plate batten running across the cladding. Would you suggest I need to remove the cladding first or can I fix directly into the cladding, ideally into the furring strips to get a better fixing?
Who does this work well and reputably in London ?
Excellent Video very helpful with all gas prices going up, can you please let me know if multifoil insulation can be good option instead of Pir? Can we get say same level of insulation from 30mm Multifoil to 50mm Pir?
I haven't used multifoil or BreatherQuilt, but with the price of PIR increasing, a foil system might be the better option. I haven't looked into PIR vs Foil, but it seems like both would do the job.
Great video.
I have a 60s ex council house. Is it normal to just have a wooden frame under the windows downstairs and upstairs? I currently have wooden cladding on outside?
It was a very popular style in the 60’s. Panel construction used less labour so was cheaper and to be fair, is not a bad style of construction. I do recommend putting some insulation in there if you can.
@@jameslincs thank you. Very good video keep it up
Yes, make more content!
Could you send a link of the trim that you use above the window?
Hi Brilliant Vid James! We have same row of external tiled panel on similar age property - in our case a block of flats. We were wondering what's behind the wall tiles. Shocked to see it!!! Our block is having a lot of condensation issues inside flats both below and above the row of tiling. Do you think draft getting in behind the row of tiles can make its way into the wall cavities throughout the building, thus making the internal walls below and above the row of tiles (not just behind) extra cold & thus causing condensation issues? Do you know how the tiled panel joins up with the cavity wall below and above and are there gaps into the cavity wall from behind the panel? Also have you or anyone any idea why buildings had these tiles put on rather than a wall back in those days? Would appreciate any comments :-)
Hi, yes, a draft can get in. the original wood is not airtight. Condensation is all about the Due Point, which is affected by the temperature of the air, the water content in the air, the temperature of the surface and the air-flow. Warming up the walls and internal air-temp should reduce condensation, but it depends where the water is coming from (showers with no extractor fan, drying clothes inside, etc..) You normally have to do a few different things to get rid of condensation and increasing the insulation is only one of the things.
I blocked up the small gaps around the wood in the cavity with silicon sealant, but some airflow is not necessarily a bad thing. I only did that so the little polystyrene balls didn't escape when I had the cavity walls filled, which I had done a few weeks afterwards. So in summary, yes, it should help reduce the condensation, but it depends on what's causing the condensation.
Houses were built this way due to the high price of bricklayers (due to bricklayer unions and the 2nd world war taking workers out of the industry) Wooden frames as walls were very popular in the 60's.. started being phased out in the 70's and by the 1985 were breaching building regs due to the poor thermal value.
@@jameslincs Hi James. Thanks so much for your response. Understand about needing to do a few things to tackle condensation. In my flat I installed extra ventilation and had a polystyrene layer added to offending walls to warm them up and stop severe condensation. Dehumidifier is used whenever drying clothes and door shut with extractor fan left on after showers. Other flats also have similar condensation damp issues. Our attention has now turned to the row of tiling as possibly having an effect on the internal walls being so cold. We would like to have cavity wall insulation done but were advised we need to resolve the damp issues first as otherwise it could cause more problems. However, if the damp turns out to be solely to do with the temperature of the walls then cavity walls insulation maybe needed to sort out the damp. Thanks so much for the info about why wooden frames were popular in the 60s. Am amazed! Would never have guessed that the reason! Didn't see that when Googling either. We wondered if it was about giving extra protection to walls - but after seeing your vid, clearly not as there are no brick built walls at all underneath! Goodness. Were there other good options to UPVC that you considered replacing the tiles with? Also when you had cavity insulation done did they need to separately spray under and over the wooden wall section? Thanks so much for your helpful vid and comments - massively appreciated!
@@gaiaum maybe they are concerned that the damp is from the gutters leaking into the cavity. We had to have new gutters before we could get cavity insulation installed.
Yes, they will put it above and below the wooden panels (if there is any brick above the panel area, which their normally isn’t, at least, not on a house anyway)
@@jameslincs Wow That's got us thinking! Our block is 3 storey with two rows of tiled sections & two rows of painted white sections next to windows (above lower brick layer). Now wondering if the white sections are similar wall construction to the tiled sections - always thought it was mad to have white sections which need expensive painting maintenance (with scaffolding as so high) & wondered why the original builders didn't follow through with the brick. Looks likely they are also stud walls, covered in render, as it sounds unlikely as you say that there would be brick built above tiled panel sections, seeing as the tiled sections have no brick wall behind! Goodness! Well this has certainly been an eye opener! We will investigate further now... Thank you so much for your post and advice - so helpful and much appreciated! 👍😃
1:41 Using wood framing in these sections probably made sense because the windows alone would never support the weight of a brick&block wall, so one would need either heavy mullions or heavy lintels to support the weight of masonry, and that would involve a lot of complication and skill. My front wall is all masonry, but my next-door neighbors house, which shares a wall with mine, has an upstairs bumpout to make room for a 3rd bedroom, and that's framed in wood for similar reasons.
Really helpful as i'm about to have a go at this, 2" of rockwool just isn't enough! I'm curious what the brackets are you are talking about? Haven't seen them anywhere.
Thanks. I bought these from B and Q or Homebase or maybe screwfix. they are just generic right angle brackets. Cheap to buy and maybe not necessary, but I like to go a bit OTT with the screwdriver sometimes.
@@jameslincs oh I meant the insulation brackets you mentioned sorry! I've seen / heard of hanging brackets - having a challenging finding information on how to install them tho. Keep searching I guess!
@@RollCorruption About to do this on my house, did you find the insulation brackets? thanks
Yes. All DIY stores have them.
Useful info. Thanks James!
Your welcome (from his daughter)
Are these tiles easy to remove if they cover your’s and your neighbours house…. We are semi-detached and these cover ours and the house next door……
Can they be cut? Or just remove half of them from the wall?
@@almeida4eva best to speak with the neighbours before doing the work, but yes the tiles are easy to remove and can be cut (use a diamond cutting grinder disc).
Hopefully the neighbours will want to also insulate their house and they might help pay for the work/materials.
Wow well done. Is your home noticeably warmer now?
Yes, we can really tell the difference and use the heating much less
Yes we can (but it’s cold at night in the play room.🫤 probably because of that big window?
I'd be tempted to convert it to a cavity wall, I know i's more expensive it's just a personal preference
the challenge here is how to do it, nothing really comes up when i search and there is a challenge of window placement and support - especially for big windows - which seems to be the main issue with external insulation that is rendered as the windows stay where they are which isnt ideal. If you have any more detail on converting do let me know!
Very interesting video. Kudos. What sort of felt did you use? Do you know if it's supposed to be breathable?
Stelian Dan ....it’s just normal roofing felt (no stones on it, lol) you can get if from any builders merchant, it’s nothing special. I’ve seen some with black plastic sheets, and some with very heavy duty tarred felt. It doesn’t need to be breathable, because its not sealed air tight at the edge. I guess it’s just there in case any rain was blown up through the cladding.
Bro your dumb. Can you breath in your house? YES?! Then that solves it, you can breath in your house still :)
What impact did it have on temperature in the home and heat loss?
Hi, it made the house much easier to heat. The winter before the boiler used to run for hours and hours but now it comes on for 1 hour and then turns off because the house is warm and holds onto the heat much longer. It’s reduced the heating bills.
We also had cavity wall installation installed afterwards so it’s hard to work out how much of the difference is from that, but I have no doubt that insulating the panels is a good idea. If I moved to a another house with these panels I would definitely put some insulation in there like this. There is a noticeable improvement (there used to be a draft under the bedroom floor boards making the bedroom floor cold and this also cured that problem)
@@jameslincs thanks. I need to do the same on my house then!
Nice job you've done of that, 120mm is a bit overkill though, the spec for a wall like that would only require around 75mm but it won't be cold that's for sure lol
You can never have enough.
Id have agreed with you 3 years ago… but having been through the winter we just had at the fuel prices we now pay… the more insulation the merrier!
We are looking to do this on our home. The gaps in the tiles also allow pests through so this looks great. Thank you for sharing.
Do you know where I can get any of those tiles you had before the cladding?
Amazon or any local DIY stores :]
Thank you so much for posting this! We are planning on doing this at some point too! Can you tell us roughly how long it took to complete?
We did the back one day and the front the next, but we could have easily done both in one day if we had been a little more organised
Great video. What height scaffold tower did you use?
I got a 6m tower (£350 on ebay) and used it in the formation shown (2x 3m towers) and walked on a Youngman board (£90 also off ebay). The walking platform is about 2m off the ground.
...I sold the towers and board afterwards for the same price I paid for them (actually I think I made £10 profit on the Youngman board) The House is nice and warm in winter now, (cooler in summer).. so glad we did this to it. Money and time well spent.
@@jameslincs Thanks very much. Got a similar job to do around the bay window so will need to get a tower. The heat savings will pay off but good to hear you made a small profit :) All the best
@@shirish2420 I strapped the tower together with little ratchet scraps, which made it much more stable, so that’s a good idea.
Hope the Bay Window goes well. Cheers
The size of the house. Idk man I’m 12 (James Drury daughter)
If you break a tile are they easy to buy now?
They are sometimes called Peg tiles or Rosemary tiles. I expect you can get them on eBay or a builders merchant might be able to get them. Clay Tiles are not normally as thermally efficient as plastic which might be why they are less popular these days, but I expect you can still get them if you prefer the look of clay tiles.
How does the area that is insulated breathe ? Have you had any moisture problems?
@@progpuss after researching the options, I decided not to put in a membrane (normally a polythene sheet) to stop moisture, so any moisture is free to move in and out.
The insulation is good enough to stop problems of ‘cold bridging’ and so we have had absolutely no issues with moisture on either side of the house (north side or south side). Honestly I think I made the right decision, as if any moisture does get in, it can easily get out the same way it got in.
Hi, good job. Do you put ventilation in?
Nope, I looked into vapour barriers (basically plastic sheets) and found they themselves are the cause of condensation and mould. The foam is waterproof anyway. If any moisture somehow gets in, it can escape through the fibreboards, or the same way it got in, so I decided that no additional ventilation is required. They have used spray foam in American timber frame houses for years and so far, no damage to the wood. if anything, it's probably more likely to protect the wood, plus the foam is fire-resistant. the house is so much warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and less drafty, well worth doing.
Nice job
Do you need planning permission to change the hanging tiles with something else?
Thanks
No, not unless it’s a listed building.
I think my neighbours might have objected if I had done it bright pink or something, but I could have if I wanted to, as it’s not a planning issue.
Flashing lights or glow in the dark can be considered forms of light pollution, so that might need permission in some rare circumstances, such as if you are near a busy road, meaning it might distract drivers... so common sense should apply.
Their might be specific restrictions if you live in a conversation area. You can research and should respect any conservation restrictions... if you want to breach a conservation restriction, you will need permission.
but if you’re a normal house in a normal area planning a normal improvement like this, then you don’t need planning permission.
Building regulations will apply, but that just means that you can’t make it worse than it currently is, which you obviously wouldn’t do anyway. You are not required to meet building regs of the modern standard, just the regs that were in place when the house was built. (If there were any in place)
Thanks
Is there not a need to leave space for ventilation gap or anythiny? Hows it holding up??
Quite the opposite, you don't want any gaps as it makes the insulation only 50% as effective. being sealed keeps out moisture. This kind of insulation is hydrophobic, so it won't absorb moisture from condensation. There is a gap between the outer PVC panels and the insulation, but that's just to let any rain that happens to get through the uPVC panels to be able to drain out. It using Rockwool in a bag, it would be a different story, as you would get condensation problems on the plastic lining, but that won't happen here. no problems so far anyway.,
@@jameslincs ah ok. I have the same. So maybe this is something I should do.
@@DannySimpson-y8l i personally think it is well worth doing, but obviously all houses are slightly different and maybe you should take some professional advice regarding ventilation etc..
my house has been fine (so far), but I can’t make any guarantees, as your situation might be different. You never know exactly the situation until you’re at the property, so always use common sense and maybe get professional advice if you are unsure about it. (I was a roofer before and so I know a lot of things that I forget to mention).
For example, a house by the sea or that has driving rain or is normally prone to condensation problems (built in wardrobe or something on that wall, etc.) might change the advice regarding ventilation.
Every house is different (even identical houses) due to different weather conditions, different lifestyle factors, (drying clothes inside, heating on more less, etc) so if you do the same to your house, it’s at your own risk.
But in general, you don’t need any ventilation between the insulation and the inside walls, any moisture that is absorbed by the inside walls will also be drawn out from them, so it should just make the situation better. However, if you do leave a gap and rain water blows in, but then can’t escape, that could be a problem, which is why the gap between the upvc and the outside of the insulation is a good idea (to let that rain escape) Hope all that makes sense.
I’m thinking about offering this service to customers. No one ever asks for it, but it makes sense to do it. What do you think folks would pay for me and my workers to come and do it professionally?
You've made it look easy. But I'm sure it's abit more of a pain for a diyer with no experience. So maybe some people would pay yer. God know how much I'd pay tho. Looks like a 1 day job right ? Labour for one day + materials?
I need to replace some of these tiles , I don't suppose you know what they are called ?? , I suspect they are REDLAND tiles but im not 100% sure
I call them "peg tiles" but I think "rosemary tiles" is another name. We gave them away for free. sorry
Rosemary tiles I've just took 3 off with a mis placed swing of the hammer fitting soffit lol
Has it made a difference?
yes, it is now noticeably better at retaining heat. Only have the boiler on half as often.
Did you glue the pir insulation?
I cut it so it fit in very snug, then I put a little bit of expanding foam around the edge to hold it in place.
how much did it cost or did you charge? good job btw
Hi, I live here, so it was just my time (a day) and the materials, which were about £800.
@@jameslincs Thanks just wanted to check as a quote i was given for tiled exterior to replace timber cladding was £1500
Bruh he hasn’t posted in 2 years-
Quality not quantity 😉
First of all please next time use treated timber otherwise you’ll be replacing it in few years also wood is one of the best insulation materials so no need over doing it with extra insulation
Not the right way to do it at all.
Because you've insulated it should have an interval vapour barrier and breathable membrane.
The internal vapor barrier is required in some parts of the USA, but some people argue that it's unnecessary and could even trap moisture in the cavity. They claim that air current are what brings in the moisture that causes condensation. Paper, or uninterrupted drywall will keep interior air from entering the cavity, so if it's air sealed, that should be enough to avoid condensation.
Hope you don't get rat's, that looks great for them to make a nest in.
I’ve never heard of anyone getting rats in these walls, but in theory you could I guess.
Best not to leave any food lying around that might attract rats.
Having this insulation installed probably reduces the chance of getting rats vs having nothing or having rock-wool, but I’m not aware of any studies on the topic.
@@jameslincs Everyone thinks rat's are looking for food, they will eat your food but if they can get in the drains / sewer they have all they need to live. They come into homes for heat. The reason I said anything was because your house is almost identical to mine and they was getting into the cavity and then into the tile panel and under our floors.
Mmmm, James , clearly not a tradesman ?. Lath ? Lath? It’s a batten mush ? What would you call a lath and plaster wall ? No d.p.m sooooo much cold bridging , bad practise everywhere . Felt ? No breathable membrane . Ingress of vermin there ? Plastic ? Nice in keeping clay tile would be better . No weather proofing at all ? Get a trade they said ? Never be out of work ? Why did I do a 5 year apprenticeship ??? Should be a law about d.I fecking y ? Oh well when it’s sold a good surveyor will rip it apart ? Sorry to be honest .
Hi Paul, thanks for your input. I’m not a tradesman, but I am a RICS qualified estate agent. This is a vast improvement on what was there before. Many properties on the street have chosen the white PVC style (I quite like it), and I’m 100% sure it won’t cause any problems when selling. I have over 20 years experience of selling these kinds of properties and I’ve seen all kinds on improvements in that time. This improvement (while perhaps not as good as a professional builder would do) works well and improves the property, so should actually add value. (Not that I’m thinking of selling. We love this place).
@Paul Rumbold what a complete tool you are. Mate shut up you troll!