You could try 3d printing a generator that can match the force coming from the jet. (Basically measure how much energy is being added to the wheel with each spin and use the induction equation to calculate how much wire and magnets you'll need to match the values)
Very good stuff. I like it. Few comments... 1. Put your meter in a plastic bag or plastic box...it won't be damaged by a little water, but again...why take the chance? 2. The low watts on the motor is because it has no load on it... To put a load... you have to pinch the shaft... or make a contraption so that the motor pulls a heavy object up ...Even better since the turbine is pushing around 12V DC...just get a car light bulb...and measure the voltage and current through the bulb...and you'll get the watts. Try small automotive bulbs...Halogen bulbs on the other hand...may be too much...they are rated at 50 watts or so. hence, they will draw about 4 to 5 amps ...Cheers!!!
Thank you for this, in the part 3 bench test I tried using a 12v car defroster. That is rated for 13 amps which was a bit much. I have since purchased 12v 25w heater pads so ill be making a video as soon as I can.
Nice project! A low RPM Axial Flux Generator may give decent output. I couldn't find the file links. Which software did you use for designing the Pelton Turbine? I'm planning to hook it up with my existing generator and see how it goes.
I posted a bench test video tho showing with a higher resistance (thus higher power potential) the generator is capable of much more power. I want to demonstrate its power potential simulated with a real world test tho.
@@Beyond_The_Tint But I noticed one "mistake" in your impulse jet, which it hits not tangential to the turbine bowl. However, it gives a significant pressure to the axis rather than the impulse jet turn the turbine.
@@StrsAmbrg this is a very good point. Tomorrow I'm going to redesign a housing that allows the turbine to be parallel to the ground and hopefully increase the force acting on the axis of the motor. Thank you for your input.
sigh. jets at the wrong angle, not tangential enough. should be tangent to mid-cup. there should be virtually NO water splashing. the whole point is the water STOPS. hits the blade, performs a close to 180 turn, and imparts its momentum to the blade. and the blade recedes at half the velocity. yes, _some_ splash is to be expected. things arent perfect. any water that doesnt simply stop and fall straight down is wasted energy. if its carried with the wheel and flung off, its wasted energy. if its spraying five foot off to the side, its wasted energy. a GOOD pelton barely needs shrouding... 85% efficiency basically means 85% of the water did stop... (would anyone understand if i said its more like 92.5% of the water stopped?) cups look way too small for the amount of water. as the nozzles have to be dead on center, which is always fiddly, and the full 180 degree turn is "impossible" the cups are better to be mounted sideways, single sides, and water fed in from the side, ie, a turgo. a 120 degree turn is adequate. and then, you know its actually efficient when the bucket speed is half the nozzle velocity. the load matching the water flow and maximum transfer of momentum. finally. most important aspect of a pelton after the cups is the nozzle... ideally, spiked up the center. maintain flow velocity whilst throttling flow rate. peltons are basic. pressure turbines are where its at... i could start on the generator but couldnt be bothered beyond saying "car alternator". for load... best is nichrome wire elements. decade resistances. 0.01, 0.1, 1, etc... can graph the results out, IxV/R... a dead short will be max load, full current at min volts. all these motors have lousy regulation as generators...
This is an incredible write up thank you for the input. In the next couple of days I'll have a new design tested and uploaded to try and mitigate these issues as mentioned. (Edit the new design has larger buckets with a more defined geometry to encourage the change in water direction).
@@Beyond_The_Tint hope it helps. theres a lot of confusion and misinformation about turbines. theyre really simple at heart. saying the water "stops" is a misnomer. it hits the blade, does the 180, and exits at the same speed it entered at... except as the blade is receding at half that speed, it _appears_ to stop... relative versus absolute motions. whatever. when its good, the water is "dead", all its energy(momentum!) gone, and it just falls down. you cant get the full 180 as it falls back into the blades, and re-accelerating that water to move it around is wasting power. the water must escape! with a good generator, and iunno... maybe set up a mosfet or five on a heatsink as a simple resistive load... a pot as a voltage divider across GDS will keep it in linear mode. then you can just dial it in until the wheel does do half the speed of the jet, then measure the power , IxV. at that point, if you know the water pressure/head, and the nozzle diameter, you can do some calcs on the energy available in the jet, and the closer you get to half of that, the more efficient you are... really easy way to test bucket geometry properly. you can only get HALF the potential energy. or, you can only get HALF the kinetic energy. basic physics. dont confuse it with betz... that skips the 1/2 as the flow is already kinetic, in an open system... theres no head. just mass flow over area.
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You could try 3d printing a generator that can match the force coming from the jet. (Basically measure how much energy is being added to the wheel with each spin and use the induction equation to calculate how much wire and magnets you'll need to match the values)
Very good stuff. I like it. Few comments... 1. Put your meter in a plastic bag or plastic box...it won't be damaged by a little water, but again...why take the chance? 2. The low watts on the motor is because it has no load on it... To put a load... you have to pinch the shaft... or make a contraption so that the motor pulls a heavy object up ...Even better since the turbine is pushing around 12V DC...just get a car light bulb...and measure the voltage and current through the bulb...and you'll get the watts. Try small automotive bulbs...Halogen bulbs on the other hand...may be too much...they are rated at 50 watts or so. hence, they will draw about 4 to 5 amps ...Cheers!!!
Thank you for this, in the part 3 bench test I tried using a 12v car defroster. That is rated for 13 amps which was a bit much. I have since purchased 12v 25w heater pads so ill be making a video as soon as I can.
Nice project! A low RPM Axial Flux Generator may give decent output.
I couldn't find the file links. Which software did you use for designing the Pelton Turbine? I'm planning to hook it up with my existing generator and see how it goes.
The design was on thingyverse which I modified on solid works to scale it up and make the changes I needed. Along with the hub I made from scratch
There's a newer one I'm using it the latest vid @Jayed Hasan
Where can I find this wheel ? I need one for a project school
www.thingiverse.com/thing:16579 hope this helps I may be able to post the hub I made to convert it to my motor If you need too
You need a higher load, your motor didnt even braked the generator.
Got a few new load tests coming soon
Why not tesla turbine instead? Much less loss.
Check out my newer vids. Been working on one
With such powerful impulse, the output power was just 1.2W. What a big loss.
I believe this was due to the resistance of the circuit. I'm gonna attempt a new video tomorrow I thought I had uploaded a newer one but I guess not.
I posted a bench test video tho showing with a higher resistance (thus higher power potential) the generator is capable of much more power. I want to demonstrate its power potential simulated with a real world test tho.
@@Beyond_The_Tint But I noticed one "mistake" in your impulse jet, which it hits not tangential to the turbine bowl. However, it gives a significant pressure to the axis rather than the impulse jet turn the turbine.
@@StrsAmbrg this is a very good point. Tomorrow I'm going to redesign a housing that allows the turbine to be parallel to the ground and hopefully increase the force acting on the axis of the motor. Thank you for your input.
@@Beyond_The_Tint I will wait. :)
How many watts did you get?
In this vid it only made 1w but on the bench test vid it got up to 60w
@@Beyond_The_Tint use a neodymium motor for generator
Where can I find a good one to use?
sigh.
jets at the wrong angle, not tangential enough. should be tangent to mid-cup.
there should be virtually NO water splashing. the whole point is the water STOPS. hits the blade, performs a close to 180 turn, and imparts its momentum to the blade.
and the blade recedes at half the velocity. yes, _some_ splash is to be expected. things arent perfect. any water that doesnt simply stop and fall straight down is wasted energy. if its carried with the wheel and flung off, its wasted energy. if its spraying five foot off to the side, its wasted energy. a GOOD pelton barely needs shrouding... 85% efficiency basically means 85% of the water did stop... (would anyone understand if i said its more like 92.5% of the water stopped?)
cups look way too small for the amount of water.
as the nozzles have to be dead on center, which is always fiddly, and the full 180 degree turn is "impossible" the cups are better to be mounted sideways, single sides, and water fed in from the side, ie, a turgo. a 120 degree turn is adequate.
and then, you know its actually efficient when the bucket speed is half the nozzle velocity. the load matching the water flow and maximum transfer of momentum.
finally. most important aspect of a pelton after the cups is the nozzle... ideally, spiked up the center. maintain flow velocity whilst throttling flow rate.
peltons are basic. pressure turbines are where its at...
i could start on the generator but couldnt be bothered beyond saying "car alternator".
for load... best is nichrome wire elements. decade resistances. 0.01, 0.1, 1, etc... can graph the results out, IxV/R...
a dead short will be max load, full current at min volts.
all these motors have lousy regulation as generators...
This is an incredible write up thank you for the input. In the next couple of days I'll have a new design tested and uploaded to try and mitigate these issues as mentioned. (Edit the new design has larger buckets with a more defined geometry to encourage the change in water direction).
@@Beyond_The_Tint hope it helps. theres a lot of confusion and misinformation about turbines. theyre really simple at heart.
saying the water "stops" is a misnomer. it hits the blade, does the 180, and exits at the same speed it entered at... except as the blade is receding at half that speed, it _appears_ to stop... relative versus absolute motions. whatever. when its good, the water is "dead", all its energy(momentum!) gone, and it just falls down.
you cant get the full 180 as it falls back into the blades, and re-accelerating that water to move it around is wasting power. the water must escape!
with a good generator, and iunno... maybe set up a mosfet or five on a heatsink as a simple resistive load... a pot as a voltage divider across GDS will keep it in linear mode.
then you can just dial it in until the wheel does do half the speed of the jet, then measure the power , IxV.
at that point, if you know the water pressure/head, and the nozzle diameter, you can do some calcs on the energy available in the jet, and the closer you get to half of that, the more efficient you are... really easy way to test bucket geometry properly.
you can only get HALF the potential energy.
or, you can only get HALF the kinetic energy.
basic physics.
dont confuse it with betz... that skips the 1/2 as the flow is already kinetic, in an open system... theres no head. just mass flow over area.