David, great to get your comment. You would be very welcome to visit of course, when you feel able. There are many good channels on RUclips but I think yours is one of the most original - I've watched many hours and learnt a lot. Take care.
Great to see you on here David, I'm missing your treppaning vids and your enthusiasm for Bridgeports has convinced me to get my own, but the jury's still out on the John Smith's !
Hi, yes I had a very low expectation it would work. I was sure the tube would split from the torque, or the inserts would tear out. It's just impossible to guess the properties of materials without practical experience (just having a go). Cheers
That worked an absolute treat Paul. I'm glad you went back with a further interation to your concept. This is something I would be keen to have a crack at and its so much easier when someone has sorted the problems for you, thankyou. When I listen to David commentating on his work, it makes me feel like I'm watching Thomas the Tank Engine with that accent. Cam
Thanks Rusti, yes it was great to hear from David. I'm not sure what power your lathe has but mine is only 1.1Kw so maybe it is about he same power as yours ....
Congrats David Wilks Jr. on your first trepanning tool! My wife & I were soooo pleased when you "tigged" the repair. Much better looking & penetration seems good. I actually laughed out loud at your self deprivation. You'll make a great machinist in no time. (because you taught / learned yourself). Keep it up & have fun. Cheers!
Hi Paul, Well done, seen all three parts now. I now know why my relatives down in Halifax were complaining about the lights dimming in the summer of 2022😂😂. You could hear it just starting to complain!! It was certainly solid enough and made for some interesting videos and two years down the line it came in handy on the grinding machine project. Hope you kept a piece of swarf!! All the best!!
Hi David, to be honest I was surprised that it worked. I had to machine away the sides of the tube to cut the scrap channels and I was sure the tube would split with the force required for the cut with those 4mm flat-end carbides. Nothing ventured nothing gained - and yes it was the perfect size to cut out the centre for my surface grinder wheel balancing ring. Cheers
I just watched all three videos. I call that Research & Development, aka trial & error. That was a lot of work, but you got it done. I loved the series, somehow I feel proud for your accomplishment. 👍
Hi SimpleMan, thank you. I hesitated with that project for a long time as I was not confident I could make it work. It is always tempting to cut to the finished item like it was all easy but I feel more is gained from the journey that is real life. Cheers
Hi Don, it took me a bit of time to figure it out how these things work. Carbides at different spacings; one right way up and the other upside down. I think I said in Part 1, almost harder to explain than it is to make. Cheers
🤣🤣lol, well Dylan got to have the confidence to try and then guess what - it works. I learnt a lot from that experiment. I was sure the carbide tips would be ripped out. I love the idea I could cut a core about 100mm / 4in deep now. Cheers
Hi Ralfy, glad you enjoyed it. You can buy them .... if you have deep pockets. Rotabroach or hole saws are fine up to a point but for long cores the trepanning tool is the business. With a longer trepanning tool of much the same design (60mm) I could core 200mm or perhaps even 225mm deep on the Harrison 140. If the lathe has the power for the size you want to core then it's only limited by the bed length. Cheers
Great series, I instantly subscribed. Especially like your reasoning and explanations of your thought process. This is much more useful then just machining shots.
Thanks BT. It would cut larger with a lower feed and speed but I think I will look out for a more powerful motor in time - the lathe would take it. The high speed models of the Harrison 140 were 3HP. Cheers
Worked brilliantly. That’s a lot of cutting contact area for the lathe as it is and it cut that’s the main thing, without vibrations. This has been educational. Maybe smaller cutting area and thinner wall pipe, would be nice to see d Wilkes’ comments on an attempt. I guess corring out a solid in this way is a slow process. Don’t give up it’s a tool once perfected it will put a smile on your face.
Hi Monster G, yes it looks slow and probably is slow compared with modern production methods but 200 rpm at 2 thou per rev would core out that whole block in about 12 minutes. I could not drill and bore it that quickly, and I get to keep the core for another job. Cheers
It's great to see it working so well. From a piece of washed up scrap (sounds like me) to a useful lathe tool. A great series of videos, I enjoyed watching them. Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire.
Great work, I was also fascinated with David Wilks trepanning videos and also the depth of cut he would take when machining outside diameters. I feel I am pushing it taking 1mm cuts haha.
I should report you to the RSPCL but I was impressed with the way the lathe took the strain! Very interesting project, and the tweaks at the end made all the difference. Phil
Hi Phil, I guess you mean Royal Society for the Protection of Centre Lathes. I could reduce the feed a bit more and I think it would run at that all day. Surprising what 1.5HP can do.
Superb work! I wasn't at all optimistic when I started the series, thinking having that much cutting edge contacting at once would be doomed to failure, but that works really well. Something to consider when I move on to a grown up lathe... I look forward to your next project 👍 🇬🇧
Kudos for your persistance David; your lathe certainly worked for its dinner on a couple of those passes but the chips looked pretty terrific by the end of it.
Thanks for running this experiment and sharing your tribulations. I hope you follow it up and produce annular cutters that perform as you desire. Maybe the inner cutter is canting outwards under load. During the design phase you discussed brazing the top edge of the key steel, good plan that would resist the twisting moment. If you can afford Oxy you will love it. With Oxy you can flow brazing material down behind the key. Fully flowed silicon bronze or 115 silver solder would support the keys without the need to risk TIG burn through. Brazed shapable tips will become part of your repertoire as well. Tig looks lovely for those arc shots on RUclips but Oxy is still the most versatile Cutting, Brazing, Shrinking, Welding ( including Aluminium), Heating, Forming, Part Freeing and Banana Ripening process out there. Yes Acetylene will ripen your bananas and some other fruit.
Hi Mike, I used Oxy a bit when I was a kid and I did a bit of bronze so I know exactly what you mean. I have not tried silver solder yet. I think I will be using the trepanning tool again soon - if all goes to plan. I'm not sure how I would produce spiral annual cutters without a geared differential dividing head. Cheers
Very cool! I am building a set of custom trepan cutters to bore out electric motor rotor shafts to be used as hollow shaft pump motors. I decided to just start with the Sandvik WCMX insert cartridges as they can be easily switched to other cutters of different sizes. For my own use I probably would have fiddled with making my own! Nice work.
Hi Dylan, I was just so excited when I saw some really large bore trepanning I had to have a go at a mini version to see if I could make one and whether my small lathe would handle it. It was very satisfying to see it worked. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed ahaa, yes David is a nice guy. He normally always answered question in the positings. I was wandering why you used tool steel for the insert holders? Is normal mild steel not good enough? Plus those inserts holders can be a lot shorter I think. And one remark in terms of brazing with silicon bronze: the surface neets to be very clean: you had some of that black sud so it will not weld properly. One way is to use an angle grinder or a small dremmel (pointy or rounded tool) to grind away any imperfections and than start again: bronze doesn't flow that well, you can also puch the bronze into an existing weld to use that a starting point. Or use a bit of cleaning action is if you weld aluminium when you have an AC/DC welder. Nice project and one day I would like to also make a trepanning tool. Cheers!
@@therealspixycat I chose key steel because it comes in a range convenient square sizes and being medium carbon I thought I would try to heat treat it. As it turns out my torch was not hot enough so I have since bought a better torch (Bullfinch propane). The square keysteel extending along the sides creates a scrap channel, as David calls it, and it extracts the swarf rather than clogging the tool. I understand your point about cleaning the scale off - thanks. Cheers.
Very good. Sounded like you were pushing your lathe to its limit! Also, without the power feed from the saddle it would have been putting quite a load on the key in the tailstock quill - but I know it was just an experiment, not to be a regular operation. Thank you.
Hi Workshopfriend, yes truthfully it was a prototype but one that worked far better than I expected. If I had to bore a deep hole I would not hesitate to use it again. But if I were making another I would find a way to use narrower inserts. People have asked "why don't you use a hole saw or an annular cutter?" but they generally won't bore a core 4 inch deep (for example). I think I could trepan an 8in long core on my Harrison 140 (limited only by the bed length). Cheers
Most enjoyable as always! I have wanted to try this with a boring bar in a tool post grinding type of set up of some kind. Maybe with one of them adjustable boring bars in powered tailstock of some sort. Just an idea I have thought about.
@@HaxbyShed I would if I ever get back into my shop. I have been completely rebuilding my house for the last 2 years and it will probably another year till completion.
Hi Terry, sometimes one size is enough .... I don't think my lathe would forgive me for anything larger diameter unless I could reduce the cutting face area somehow. Cheers
That was a bit of a nail biter there for a while. Both my lathes have 2 HP, and I want to increase the big lathe to 5 just for things like this... Great job
Hi Craig, you can understand my hesitation whether it would work or not. You could get a 3HP motor for that lathe as a high speed option so I could probably upgrade sometime without worrying about the gearbox. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed that's a good point on the possible power limitations of the gear box...I wonder if there is any info online to suggest an upper limit for your machine from the OEM?
I don't know if it matters to you now, but I just watched Davids video & he replied to a comment about inserts. He said WCMX 06T 308 fot all Trepanning tools regardless of diameter.
Hi SimpleMan, those smaller inserts were WC but I could not think of a way to machine a triangular pocket at that small scale. However if I made another I might find a way to do that. Cheers.
I was surprised too Andy. The whole thing was an experiment with no real expectation of success but in fact it performed rather well. I used it again very recently, which you will see in a couple of weeks maybe. Cheers
Hi jkmcp, I challenged myself to make that trepanning tool as a 'skills stretch'. I was quite amazed when it actually worked. Next time I have a job for it I will slow it down. If I come across a load of cheap annular cutters then that might be never 🤣 Cheers
Huge cutting width requires an ultra-low feed and, as a result, productivity of this tool is not-acceptable low. At the same time, there is a huge load on the spindle. The same task might be solved with a much simpler tools, such as extended crown sawbit. Or you need to reduce as much as possible the cutting width by using a parting tool inserts. Or, as a simplest way, use a special turning tool for this type of cutting. It, in a comparison with your tool, almost doesn't have a turning diameter limits...
Hi К.В. П. I agree with you mostly but the trepanning tool can bore a hole any depth. Even on my small lathe I could bore out a core 200mm long perhaps and on a big lathe there is almost no limit. Cheers
Oh my... you've no idea how you've cheered me up. When I get better I'd like to visit you. Thanks for making me smile. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Really pleased to see you replied to this David, all the best from a fan!! Cheers, Matthew
Wishing you a speedy recovery David. I have missed your postings.
David, great to get your comment. You would be very welcome to visit of course, when you feel able. There are many good channels on RUclips but I think yours is one of the most original - I've watched many hours and learnt a lot. Take care.
Great to see you on here David, I'm missing your treppaning vids and your enthusiasm for Bridgeports has convinced me to get my own, but the jury's still out on the John Smith's !
Seeing your comment, has cheered me up no end. All the best in beer, sex and health. From Australia.
The childish delight in a plan that worked, you can't beat that feeling. ❤
Hi, yes I had a very low expectation it would work. I was sure the tube would split from the torque, or the inserts would tear out. It's just impossible to guess the properties of materials without practical experience (just having a go). Cheers
That worked an absolute treat Paul. I'm glad you went back with a further interation to your concept. This is something I would be keen to have a crack at and its so much easier when someone has sorted the problems for you, thankyou. When I listen to David commentating on his work, it makes me feel like I'm watching Thomas the Tank Engine with that accent.
Cam
Hi Cam, thanks. I could definitely improve the design if I ever make another. I will leave David to comment on his accent. :-)
Hell yeah! That's a real cool experiment.
And with a comment of David himself as a bonus.
Thanks Rusti, yes it was great to hear from David. I'm not sure what power your lathe has but mine is only 1.1Kw so maybe it is about he same power as yours ....
Congrats David Wilks Jr. on your first trepanning tool! My wife & I were soooo pleased when you "tigged" the repair. Much better looking & penetration seems good. I actually laughed out loud at your self deprivation. You'll make a great machinist in no time. (because you taught / learned yourself). Keep it up & have fun. Cheers!
Cheers Bob. I am learning the uses of TIG. Much more of precision instrument than other forms of welding.
Hello Paul,
A very enjoyable series... thank you...
Cheers.
Paul,,
Hi Paul, it seemed to be going on, .... and on, .... and on .... to get the result but then the end result was all the more satisfying. Cheers
Hi Paul, Well done, seen all three parts now.
I now know why my relatives down in Halifax were complaining about the lights dimming in the summer of 2022😂😂. You could hear it just starting to complain!!
It was certainly solid enough and made for some interesting videos and two years down the line it came in handy on the grinding machine project. Hope you kept a piece of swarf!!
All the best!!
Hi David, to be honest I was surprised that it worked. I had to machine away the sides of the tube to cut the scrap channels and I was sure the tube would split with the force required for the cut with those 4mm flat-end carbides. Nothing ventured nothing gained - and yes it was the perfect size to cut out the centre for my surface grinder wheel balancing ring. Cheers
I just watched all three videos. I call that Research & Development, aka trial & error.
That was a lot of work, but you got it done. I loved the series, somehow I feel proud for your accomplishment. 👍
Hi SimpleMan, thank you. I hesitated with that project for a long time as I was not confident I could make it work. It is always tempting to cut to the finished item like it was all easy but I feel more is gained from the journey that is real life. Cheers
We really like this build. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Thank you HomemadeTools.
I finally clued into the fact that one cutter cuts the ID and the other the OD. Nice work.
Hi Don, it took me a bit of time to figure it out how these things work. Carbides at different spacings; one right way up and the other upside down. I think I said in Part 1, almost harder to explain than it is to make. Cheers
Holy shit I can’t believe that worked. Great job and beautiful tap wrench!
🤣🤣lol, well Dylan got to have the confidence to try and then guess what - it works. I learnt a lot from that experiment. I was sure the carbide tips would be ripped out. I love the idea I could cut a core about 100mm / 4in deep now. Cheers
Great stuff. Really enjoyed the whole series, seeing your design finessed as things progressed. It worked.
Thank you Carl. I wish I could come up with ideas like that all the time but alas it will be something more mundane next .... Cheers
@@HaxbyShedNot at all. Your channel is full of things you have made which prove that your ideas are anything other than mundane.
Well done buddy, thoroughly enjoyed this series, great tool and another I need to add to my list 😀
Hi Ralfy, glad you enjoyed it. You can buy them .... if you have deep pockets. Rotabroach or hole saws are fine up to a point but for long cores the trepanning tool is the business. With a longer trepanning tool of much the same design (60mm) I could core 200mm or perhaps even 225mm deep on the Harrison 140. If the lathe has the power for the size you want to core then it's only limited by the bed length. Cheers
good video
Thank you TPM. It was a long journey. Cheers
Congratulations that was a fantastic result and it was great to watch the build and testing, thanks
Thanks GTB. It was some relief for me that it worked. A bit more in the experience bank. Cheers
Way to stay with it. Glad you finally got it to work.
Thanks Tom. It was a bit of a long journey.
Great series, I instantly subscribed. Especially like your reasoning and explanations of your thought process. This is much more useful then just machining shots.
Thank you Kai.
Wow, really well done. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
Hi Sky123, thanks for the comment. It was a long journey but I was pleased with it in the end. Cheers
excellent work there, great to see it working in the end!
Thank you Anthony. Cheers
Very impressive, quite a large diameter on a relatively small lathe, well diagnosed on improvements.
Great vlog, thanks for sharing.
Thanks BT. It would cut larger with a lower feed and speed but I think I will look out for a more powerful motor in time - the lathe would take it. The high speed models of the Harrison 140 were 3HP. Cheers
Worked brilliantly. That’s a lot of cutting contact area for the lathe as it is and it cut that’s the main thing, without vibrations. This has been educational. Maybe smaller cutting area and thinner wall pipe, would be nice to see d Wilkes’ comments on an attempt. I guess corring out a solid in this way is a slow process. Don’t give up it’s a tool once perfected it will put a smile on your face.
Hi Monster G, yes it looks slow and probably is slow compared with modern production methods but 200 rpm at 2 thou per rev would core out that whole block in about 12 minutes. I could not drill and bore it that quickly, and I get to keep the core for another job. Cheers
It's great to see it working so well. From a piece of washed up scrap (sounds like me) to a useful lathe tool. A great series of videos, I enjoyed watching them.
Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire.
Thank you Dean, now I know scaffolding pole is a good source of stock. Cheers
Excellent recovery. The cut looks beautiful
Hi Kimber, thank you. Now I need to find a job that needs a spacer ring 60mm inner x 70mm outer :-)
Very nicely in your show
Thank you Mr Rany. Cheers
Great work, I was also fascinated with David Wilks trepanning videos and also the depth of cut he would take when machining outside diameters. I feel I am pushing it taking 1mm cuts haha.
Hi Philip, yes the cuts David makes are awesome. It helps to have a big lathe with a big motor.
I should report you to the RSPCL but I was impressed with the way the lathe took the strain! Very interesting project, and the tweaks at the end made all the difference.
Phil
Hi Phil, I guess you mean Royal Society for the Protection of Centre Lathes. I could reduce the feed a bit more and I think it would run at that all day. Surprising what 1.5HP can do.
Very interesting. Nice job.
Thank you. 👍
Nicely done...amazed relative small motor could cope with the cutting forces.Lots of cooling helped I think!
Hi Robert, thank you. I guess low rpm is the key, and yes lots of coolant to make it slippery. Cheers
Superb work! I wasn't at all optimistic when I started the series, thinking having that much cutting edge contacting at once would be doomed to failure, but that works really well. Something to consider when I move on to a grown up lathe... I look forward to your next project 👍 🇬🇧
Hi TRM, I was doubtful for sure but the old H140 delivered. Nevertheless if I find a bigger motor at a sensible price I may fit it. Cheers
Kudos for your persistance David; your lathe certainly worked for its dinner on a couple of those passes but the chips looked pretty terrific by the end of it.
Thank you Jim. I had my doubts but it delivered. Good old Harrison.
Well done, mate.
Thanks Aubrey. It was a 50/50 bet but it worked. Cheers
Brilliant work
Thank you Michael.
Nice job!
Hi Bigal, thank you.
WELL DONE PAUL. REGARDS RICHARD.
Thank you Richard.
Thanks for running this experiment and sharing your tribulations. I hope you follow it up and produce annular cutters that perform as you desire.
Maybe the inner cutter is canting outwards under load. During the design phase you discussed brazing the top edge of the key steel, good plan that would resist the twisting moment.
If you can afford Oxy you will love it. With Oxy you can flow brazing material down behind the key. Fully flowed silicon bronze or 115 silver solder would support the keys without the need to risk TIG burn through. Brazed shapable tips will become part of your repertoire as well.
Tig looks lovely for those arc shots on RUclips but Oxy is still the most versatile Cutting, Brazing, Shrinking, Welding ( including Aluminium), Heating, Forming, Part Freeing and Banana Ripening process out there.
Yes Acetylene will ripen your bananas and some other fruit.
Hi Mike, I used Oxy a bit when I was a kid and I did a bit of bronze so I know exactly what you mean. I have not tried silver solder yet. I think I will be using the trepanning tool again soon - if all goes to plan. I'm not sure how I would produce spiral annual cutters without a geared differential dividing head. Cheers
I believe it’s called a balance cutter. Well done for persevering.
I'd not heard of a Balance Cutter, thanks. Cheers
Very cool! I am building a set of custom trepan cutters to bore out electric motor rotor shafts to be used as hollow shaft pump motors. I decided to just start with the Sandvik WCMX insert cartridges as they can be easily switched to other cutters of different sizes. For my own use I probably would have fiddled with making my own! Nice work.
Hi Dylan, I was just so excited when I saw some really large bore trepanning I had to have a go at a mini version to see if I could make one and whether my small lathe would handle it. It was very satisfying to see it worked. Cheers
David would be very proud with your very first attempt. May be change the revs up or down to find the sweat spot
Thank you spixy, he did actually leave a message to say he had seen the video and it made him smile. That was nice of him. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed ahaa, yes David is a nice guy. He normally always answered question in the positings. I was wandering why you used tool steel for the insert holders? Is normal mild steel not good enough? Plus those inserts holders can be a lot shorter I think. And one remark in terms of brazing with silicon bronze: the surface neets to be very clean: you had some of that black sud so it will not weld properly. One way is to use an angle grinder or a small dremmel (pointy or rounded tool) to grind away any imperfections and than start again: bronze doesn't flow that well, you can also puch the bronze into an existing weld to use that a starting point. Or use a bit of cleaning action is if you weld aluminium when you have an AC/DC welder. Nice project and one day I would like to also make a trepanning tool. Cheers!
@@therealspixycat I chose key steel because it comes in a range convenient square sizes and being medium carbon I thought I would try to heat treat it. As it turns out my torch was not hot enough so I have since bought a better torch (Bullfinch propane). The square keysteel extending along the sides creates a scrap channel, as David calls it, and it extracts the swarf rather than clogging the tool. I understand your point about cleaning the scale off - thanks. Cheers.
Very good. Sounded like you were pushing your lathe to its limit! Also, without the power feed from the saddle it would have been putting quite a load on the key in the tailstock quill - but I know it was just an experiment, not to be a regular operation. Thank you.
Hi Workshopfriend, yes truthfully it was a prototype but one that worked far better than I expected. If I had to bore a deep hole I would not hesitate to use it again. But if I were making another I would find a way to use narrower inserts. People have asked "why don't you use a hole saw or an annular cutter?" but they generally won't bore a core 4 inch deep (for example). I think I could trepan an 8in long core on my Harrison 140 (limited only by the bed length). Cheers
Most enjoyable as always! I have wanted to try this with a boring bar in a tool post grinding type of set up of some kind. Maybe with one of them adjustable boring bars in powered tailstock of some sort. Just an idea I have thought about.
Hi Danny, if you try it then let us know how you get on.
@@HaxbyShed I would if I ever get back into my shop. I have been completely rebuilding my house for the last 2 years and it will probably another year till completion.
good work.
Thank you PM. Cheers
Nice effort. You learned a lot and if you make another tool it will be a success, on a bigger lathe.
Thanks
Hi Dennis, yes it was an interesting experiment - bigger motor required next time. Cheers
Good stuff mate! Don't be such a pessimist about what your doing! Cheers, Matthew
Hi Matthew, thanks. There were so many things to go wrong I really felt like it was a long shot. I feel much more confident now :-)
Well Paul, some tenacious thinking the whole thing though, all you need now is a collection of these at different sizes, 👴🏻👍
Hi Terry, sometimes one size is enough .... I don't think my lathe would forgive me for anything larger diameter unless I could reduce the cutting face area somehow. Cheers
Looks an excellent result! How did the carbide tips stand up to the exercise?
Hi Chris, the carbides are still like new. But they were quality inserts, unlike the cheap stuff I usually use.
Kudos!
Thank you Craig.
That works beautifull.
Thanks rikabob, I would not have bet much on it but yes indeed it did work well in the finish. Cheers
Excellent
Hi P, I felt very lifted the day that worked. It was a long bet but it shows what can be done with a bit of confidence. Cheers
That was a bit of a nail biter there for a while. Both my lathes have 2 HP, and I want to increase the big lathe to 5 just for things like this...
Great job
Hi Craig, you can understand my hesitation whether it would work or not. You could get a 3HP motor for that lathe as a high speed option so I could probably upgrade sometime without worrying about the gearbox. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed that's a good point on the possible power limitations of the gear box...I wonder if there is any info online to suggest an upper limit for your machine from the OEM?
@@craigtate5930 Probably unlikely I would find a published number but I will be safe at 3HP I'm sure.
I don't know if it matters to you now, but I just watched Davids video & he replied to a comment about inserts. He said WCMX 06T 308 fot all Trepanning tools regardless of diameter.
Hi SimpleMan, those smaller inserts were WC but I could not think of a way to machine a triangular pocket at that small scale. However if I made another I might find a way to do that. Cheers.
I am surprised it cut as far as it did. I didn't think your machine had enough torque.
I was surprised too Andy. The whole thing was an experiment with no real expectation of success but in fact it performed rather well. I used it again very recently, which you will see in a couple of weeks maybe. Cheers
Well trepanning takes a lot of power and you need to slow everything down rpm’s are high and your feed also
Hi jkmcp, I challenged myself to make that trepanning tool as a 'skills stretch'. I was quite amazed when it actually worked. Next time I have a job for it I will slow it down. If I come across a load of cheap annular cutters then that might be never 🤣 Cheers
❤
👍 Thank you.
How is David. Anyone...? Any one heard from him. Hope all is well!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi aubreyaub, David did leave a comment on one of these videos suggesting he was not well at that time. I did not ask for further details. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed Thank you, Very Much. Mixed emotions.
I like that --
Thank you 38tab.
Huge cutting width requires an ultra-low feed and, as a result, productivity of this tool is not-acceptable low. At the same time, there is a huge load on the spindle.
The same task might be solved with a much simpler tools, such as extended crown sawbit. Or you need to reduce as much as possible the cutting width by using a parting tool inserts.
Or, as a simplest way, use a special turning tool for this type of cutting. It, in a comparison with your tool, almost doesn't have a turning diameter limits...
Hi К.В. П. I agree with you mostly but the trepanning tool can bore a hole any depth. Even on my small lathe I could bore out a core 200mm long perhaps and on a big lathe there is almost no limit. Cheers
18:17 it's a "hurrah"
Yes, happy days it was 'hurrah'. 😁
But first strep bar kudos
Thank you 👍
Shrink fit one thou per inch of diameter😮.
Thank you 👍
To mush tool prusher.
Hi Michael, yes I agree too much tool pressure so not ideal but it worked. Next time I will find a way to use smaller narrower inserts. Cheers
👍
Thank you.