Great stuff, thanks for posting. My experience is that what passengers need is a grab line *within* the boat...for example, through those D-rings I see right next to you. Avon had such grab lines on their early riverboats. These can be tied quite taut so there is no danger of entrapment. I use hollow core nylon webbing stuffed with rope...gives a very satisfying grip, smoother than rope but grippier than plain webbing.
Bro I was looking for how to get this line just the right length this weekend. Truckers Hitch! Thank you man!!! Been digging your stuff. Thanks for sharing
Just got a new boat, getting it set up and learning, appreciate your vids. Let me if there a reason I shouldn't do this but I'm putting loops on the ends of my perimeter line then I can use loop straps to pull the line tight, then I can quickly tighten it and I can take the rope off without undoing any knots and use it for something else if I need to.
Over the past few years we've had 3 companies come together under one roof to create one larger company. Last spring we really nerded out as a group on many different thing including Perimiter lines. What we came up with is pretty cool. We are using 1" webbing, tied to the stern most D ring on one end. On the other end we're using a 4' male/female strap. The female (buckle) end gets larks-footed to the stern most D-ring, while the male end gets water knotted to the P line. Works beautifuly. After the boat and line gets wet, I'll have paddlers pull slack out while I pull the line tight.
There are so many good ways to do it. There are also so may bad ways to do it. Things that have been "nerded out" on by guides are typically bombproof.
Willy, I have been toying with the idea of a system similar to this in my head for awhile now, I like webbing because it lays flat and love the quick adjustability of a cam strap being involved in the system. My question for you Willy (I am new to the game so am genuinely curious, not trying to upstage) Is why involve the water knot to the 1" webbing? Would it work just as well to larks foot a 1 or 2 ft cam strap to the d ring and run the webbing directly through the cam buckle? Is there a reason to avoid this?
@@aaronquigley5962 Hey dude, you're onto it with your idea. That's actually the way I've been running my perimeter lines all summer and it works great. Get the webbing wet, install and pull tight. Top off your boat and then you've got a super tidy P-line
The way I do my perimeter line is to tie a figure 8 on a bite or figure 8 follow through on both ends of the rope and feed it though so that both ends are about a foot or so from reaching each other and then connect them with a short cam strap. That way I can tighten or loosen the perimeter line by making adjustments on the cam strap. I have that cam strap in the rear of the boat on the opposite side that I like to guide from so I'm not sitting on it.
Dave, I am currently in the process of nerding out on how to set up my own perimeter line on my first boat and like the sound of this idea, love the quick adjust from the cam strap. My question is if you have ever had any issues with soft on soft material abrasion? I come from a climbing background and was always taught to avoid running to soft materials over eachother especially at high tension due to the friction involved. Have you noticed any issues with this with your setup?
why I always do a perimeter line is or added security for the frame. When I strap my frame down I go around the line and the D ring. So if my boat wflips and the D ring pops off you are have that corner attached some way to the boat.
I like to do a complete loop perimeter line that's not anchored to any one D-Ring, using the trucker's hitch against a figure8 on a bight. Keep this knot assembly at the back of the raft where it's less unsightly. Allows for retensioning the P-line easily as you show, but also makes it so that if you're unpinning or hauling on the P line for any reason the load is more evenly distributed among D rings so you have less chance of pulling one off. Any reason not to do it that way?
has anyone ever tried putting a couple carabiners in the side D rings, tying your perimeter line so that a loop for your foot is near the next D ring, clipping the loop into the carabiner. then when you are trying to get back into the raft; you unclip the loop, put your foot into it, grab the rowing frame and raise yourself up to get into the raft?
the chicken line could go through the D rings on both ends, but i thought using two biners would make the step longer and easier to get your foot through the loop. another idea; put a piece of garden hose in the loop the width of your foot to hold it wider and easier to get in. i have a photo of this setup. but i don't know how to insert it.
Great stuff, thanks for posting. My experience is that what passengers need is a grab line *within* the boat...for example, through those D-rings I see right next to you. Avon had such grab lines on their early riverboats. These can be tied quite taut so there is no danger of entrapment. I use hollow core nylon webbing stuffed with rope...gives a very satisfying grip, smoother than rope but grippier than plain webbing.
Bro I was looking for how to get this line just the right length this weekend. Truckers Hitch! Thank you man!!!
Been digging your stuff. Thanks for sharing
Glad I could help!
Just got a new boat, getting it set up and learning, appreciate your vids. Let me if there a reason I shouldn't do this but I'm putting loops on the ends of my perimeter line then I can use loop straps to pull the line tight, then I can quickly tighten it and I can take the rope off without undoing any knots and use it for something else if I need to.
Thank you Zac for another episode .
I'm glad you like them!
Over the past few years we've had 3 companies come together under one roof to create one larger company. Last spring we really nerded out as a group on many different thing including Perimiter lines. What we came up with is pretty cool. We are using 1" webbing, tied to the stern most D ring on one end. On the other end we're using a 4' male/female strap. The female (buckle) end gets larks-footed to the stern most D-ring, while the male end gets water knotted to the P line. Works beautifuly. After the boat and line gets wet, I'll have paddlers pull slack out while I pull the line tight.
There are so many good ways to do it. There are also so may bad ways to do it. Things that have been "nerded out" on by guides are typically bombproof.
Willy, I have been toying with the idea of a system similar to this in my head for awhile now, I like webbing because it lays flat and love the quick adjustability of a cam strap being involved in the system. My question for you Willy (I am new to the game so am genuinely curious, not trying to upstage) Is why involve the water knot to the 1" webbing? Would it work just as well to larks foot a 1 or 2 ft cam strap to the d ring and run the webbing directly through the cam buckle? Is there a reason to avoid this?
@@aaronquigley5962 Hey dude, you're onto it with your idea. That's actually the way I've been running my perimeter lines all summer and it works great. Get the webbing wet, install and pull tight. Top off your boat and then you've got a super tidy P-line
The way I do my perimeter line is to tie a figure 8 on a bite or figure 8 follow through on both ends of the rope and feed it though so that both ends are about a foot or so from reaching each other and then connect them with a short cam strap. That way I can tighten or loosen the perimeter line by making adjustments on the cam strap. I have that cam strap in the rear of the boat on the opposite side that I like to guide from so I'm not sitting on it.
That sounds like an awesome way to do it
Dave, I am currently in the process of nerding out on how to set up my own perimeter line on my first boat and like the sound of this idea, love the quick adjust from the cam strap. My question is if you have ever had any issues with soft on soft material abrasion? I come from a climbing background and was always taught to avoid running to soft materials over eachother especially at high tension due to the friction involved. Have you noticed any issues with this with your setup?
@@aaronquigley5962 no, I have had no issues at all.
why I always do a perimeter line is or added security for the frame. When I strap my frame down I go around the line and the D ring. So if my boat wflips and the D ring pops off you are have that corner attached some way to the boat.
Nice and tidy.
That raft looks dope, what brand is it?
Wing
9:54 what loop knot is that? Looks very fast to tie, faster than the alpine butterfly I usually do
Trucker's Hitch
Awesome Videos! Thanks for all the great content! I got a question for you about pricing on Wing Boats? Is that one the 14’6?
Tyson Clark123 glad you like the videos! That boat is the 13’ that they may not have added to their web site yet.
I like to do a complete loop perimeter line that's not anchored to any one D-Ring, using the trucker's hitch against a figure8 on a bight. Keep this knot assembly at the back of the raft where it's less unsightly. Allows for retensioning the P-line easily as you show, but also makes it so that if you're unpinning or hauling on the P line for any reason the load is more evenly distributed among D rings so you have less chance of pulling one off. Any reason not to do it that way?
I don't unpin or haul on the perimeter line. It is only there so that swimmers can grab the boat.
has anyone ever tried putting a couple carabiners in the side D rings, tying your perimeter line so that a loop for your foot is near the next D ring, clipping the loop into the carabiner.
then when you are trying to get back into the raft; you unclip the loop, put your foot into it, grab the rowing frame and raise yourself up to get into the raft?
the chicken line could go through the D rings on both ends, but i thought using two biners would make the step longer and easier
to get your foot through the loop. another idea; put a piece of garden hose in the loop the width of your foot to hold it wider and easier
to get in.
i have a photo of this setup. but i don't know how to insert it.
I’ve been using a scaffolding knot instead of a figure 8, it’s a bit cleaner.
Yep that's a great knot but I think a lot of people would struggle tying it
You can deflate on chamber, do any knot you want and re-inflate. The line will be very tight when you add the air back in. Duh!
That is definitely true in theory but that doesn't always work in the field.